Bandai Y-Wing Model Build Pt VI Base and Electronics

The title about sums it up. In this video I cover doing the base of the Y-wing and installing all of the electronics into the base that I'm using to light my model.
The boards I use are from adafruit.com. The 3.3v Trinket mini for controlling the lighting, the Audio FX mini soundboard is for my sound clips, and while I used a separate amp for the speaker, Adafruit does sell an Audio FX soundboard with built in amp. The USP power board I purchased from Ebay. Pretty easy to find. As well as the push button latch switch. The speakers I purchased on Amazon. They were 1W 8 Ohm 20mm magnet speakers.
Please visit my Y-Wing model blog for more photos and detail at y-wingmodelbui...
Also visit my Facebook page. Facebook.com/modelsbychris

[@surfinoperator]

love the idea to cover the push buttons with some detailed plastic parts🤙

[@user-ik5bm6nw9j]

great build

[@customfabrications]

This is awesome. Good job. Can’t wait to see it done.

[@paulgertsch7105]

Great job 👍

[@marcosfernandeznanita7150]

Awesome video, I think I got everything good, hope to not make any mistakes LOL... Thanks for sharing man...

[@michaelgershon870]

Again, incredible.

[@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P]

Got this video on my YT 'recommendation' and I'm a "BIG" ST-fan!! I am a model-builder, of ships for the moment, but I do have several 72 scale X-/Y-wings and resin 48 scale of the same ships plus (+) hanger details. But I have a question..... I have been doing my ships with interior lights from a supplier, but MY question is..... my wire connections are VERY thin, 28 AWG, so could I also solder my connections?? What is your advice?? Thanks for your time, AND NICE builds!!

[@modelsbychris]

I solder all of mine, and I use 28 and 30 AWG wire. Shouldn't be a problem.

[@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P]

@@modelsbychris Holy Smoke!!!! That was a quick response, Thanks..... just curious on the soldering iron...is there a specific brand that you have? I have seen a iron(s) that have different "heating power" (wattage, I think) does it matter??? Again, thanks for the response! :)

[@modelsbychris]

@@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P I have this one, and I like it a lot. Works really well. I would definitely recommend getting the brass sponge tip cleaner and Tip Tinner as well. You can get them here. www.amazon.com/shop/christopherolson?listId=RFKR980EC8ZQ

[@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P]

@@modelsbychris Cool Beans!! And Thanks, again, for the recommendations/replies!

[@jessehunter1194]

Do you use an anti-static ESD safe grounding bracelet or arm strap? I see you’re touching the boards with your fingers!

[@modelsbychris]

No, I don't. I know technically I probably should, but I don't have one and never bothered.

[@Simon-sv6qe]

Hope you don’t mind me asking but where did you learn all of this I would love to be able to do this to my kits but I have no clue how

[@modelsbychris]

Self taught. As far as electronics go. Just a lot of youtube videos and blogs. As for building and painting, I've just always built models and painted since a child.

[@Simon-sv6qe]

@@modelsbychris yeah I’ve got the building models part down I just have no knowledge of wiring and coding I guess it’s time to learn haha

[@spideysense1418]

Chris you seem to be the master at rigging electronics for models, haven't seen better but man that's daunting for some of us. Can you add in your description the make/model and website of where you get your electronics? What speaker is that and is it any good?

[@modelsbychris]

Done. The speaker is sufficient. Not super load, but you can hear it just fine.

[@spideysense1418]

Awesome work!!! Thanks! I want to take up model building in my spare time and your vids have sold me on what can be done in this day and age with models.

[@modelsbychris]

Thanks. If it inspires others and motivates, then that makes my videos are worthwhile.

[@TheCatoLee]

Blackwash is awsome

[@YODAMAN5]

AWESOME BUILD....how you hurt your thumb (black spot)...lol

[@modelsbychris]

I don't really remember now. Been 3 years. But I think I smashed it at work somehow.

[@tenminutetokyo2643]

What gauge wires are you using?

[@modelsbychris]

28 and 30 gauge

[@toddrotolo1329]

what size acrilic rod did you use?

[@modelsbychris]

If you're referring to the brass rod that holds the Y and the wires run through, it was 1/4"

[@modelsbychris]

Oh wait, the acrylic square rod. That was 3/8"

[@toddrotolo1329]

thanks

[@toddrotolo1329]

what power board did you use?

[@modelsbychris]

The Trinket and Sound board were both powered from a 5v USB power input

[@Demolisher_1]

Christopher Olson How did you power your LEDs? Was the 5v enough for all of that?

[@jaturnley]

@@Demolisher_1 Since nobody else answered this - voltage doesn't really matter, it's the amps. The control board takes whatever input it's designed for, then converts it to whatever the LEDs need. Most of these LEDs are red and run at 1.8-2.2v @ 20mA (the board likely outputs 3v minimum which is why they needed to be resisted), and the two neopixels run at around 3.3-3.7v @ 50mA each (they vary by type, but that's pretty typical). So, the LED draw is around 300mA, plus whatever the board uses, which means even a typical phone charger from an old phone you have lying around (typically 5v@1A) could run this easily. To put that in perspective, the typical hobbyist neopixel lightsaber needs a 7A 3.6-3.7v battery to run, and they usually run 144+ neopixels in their blades.

[@Houdini_Bob]

where do you get the electronics?

[@modelsbychris]

Adafruit and Ebay

[@Houdini_Bob]

thank you.