It’s back for a Warranty claim check, but is it even the SAME ENGINE?

We give you updates on the Cosworth engine built from nothing and to be installed into a mk2 Escort with 500bhp. Also, an update on the failed Mazda 2.5 engine in for stripping and checking, is this even the same engine? Things get have found don’t add up

[@lenbaddeley957]

Many years ago, I used to build /tune Ford engines. After one engine coming back to me and the owner claiming I had done it incorrectly, I had a suspicion that it was not the same engine that I had built. From then on, any engine I built, I secretly marked all the parts with a letter and a date code. And sure enough, it turned out to be the right thing to do. I caught out two other people over the period of 18 months try to con me, it nearly put me off doing any more engines, but I carried on for a few more years. I would suggest you do the same, also take photos with a date of the work that you have done. It may seem to be making more work for you, but it gives you proof that you did or did not do the work. As for the state of that engine, it looks like it has been left in the rain with the plugs out. What a sad world we live in.

[@lexion2772]

Every engine I ever built has my name and date stamped inside, somewhere; with pics. Seems we're not alone.

[@alberttaylor3917]

I want to place three gearboxes on fleabay, but I have a trepidation in that the customer wants replace his old knackered gearbox so sends that back with a complaint that this is the one I sent him. Yes I could mark it up with a date stamp and photographs but what I could do he could copy.

[@Brennan0914]

@@alberttaylor3917 Not if they don't know about it, maybe somewhere inconspicuous like the inside of the bell housing and make sure to record the gearbox serial number.

[@davidingram792]

I'd invest in a set of number punches and punch a serial number on every thing I worked on. Then if anything come back the record number punched on the item work hold the reference to my work. No number then it's not my work

[@colinhamer6506]

I sell used car parts for a living over 90% through eBay people that know how to play the system are making it hard for small business using eBay the stress and effort to fight your case generally isn't worth it and that is why they get away with it stamping items sold through the likes of eBay dosent help but when selling directly to the public creating a personal stamp and having time and dated video to back it up any small claims court will go in your favour

[@johnrussell5245]

Even if it is the original engine, you can't stand by a warranty on an engine that's been treated as badly as that. You can't be held responsible for corrosion!

[@punker4Real]

in a flood or Florida or used junk yard engine

[@aggopian]

@@punker4Real I was thinking similar, looks like the owner ran out of talent and took the car for a swim.

[@ChrisHanlon88]

When I used to work in a garage if we ever sent expensive parts from the rally cars or done something for a customer that was a "strange vibe" customer we would carefully use metal letter stamps on each part that way we can identify it. If you were to stamp your initials somewhere discreet on the block and head it would give you clear indication if they bring back the same block with different head vice versa.

[@garym1550]

engrave or etch not stamp, be gentle.

[@jimamizzi1]

I just suggested the same thing

[@ChrisHanlon88]

@@garym1550 it's not like we were using a 5kg Hammer and playing the drums on it🤣. It's literally putting 2 letters in a hidden area that won't ever cause damage or issues.

[@tomthompson7400]

@@ChrisHanlon88 it only takes one touch with the point of a 5mm drill bit , all you have to know is where to look for it.

[@leifvejby8023]

Been there too, with a center punch - three dots in a triangle

[@paulhockett1545]

As soon as you removed the sump I was thinking not the same engine. Looks at least ten years old or from a scrap yard. Someone’s after a freebie. Love the videos👍

[@jimjones7909]

I agree with Chris Hanlon, back in the day when I worked welding pressure vessels we had to stamp all our work with a number/letter stamp, so if it failed tests or came back for any other reason, the builder could be recognized

[@grahamrobson9292]

Great episode unfortunately I think the customer is treating you as fair game he’s already said he can’t remember grinding the bolts so it’s an engine he picked up from somewhere.

[@XxBlueSkiesx]

If I remember right, it was used on a rock crawler type 4x4, so he’s probably sunk it in water and hydro-locked it or just left it with the water inside so that it can add some patina to the insides.

[@scruffysod]

I would just give it all back and say you don't want his business. In my line of work we get maybe 5% of customers trying to send old stuff back saying they got it recently or breaking stuff and demanding refunds etc. Unfortunately some people think it's fair game to try every trick in the book to get a freebee.

[@roberttill3787]

I seem to recall in the earlier video it was said the customer had another one the same spec. Has he sent that one back purporting to be the one they worked on or am i too sceptical?

[@justinsheldon5015]

You need to set up a block id on everything that passes through. If an engine has a number , use that. Any block that you skim and loose the number, then a code relative to code number you keep on record. Dont use an invoice number as 'customer' then can see that. I would also look at using heat tell tales, which glue to engines. They will tell if it has been overheated. You have no idea how good the radiators or cooling is on a car, especially a special or race car. Mr Amnesia is pulling a fast one on the Mazda. Like I said on the last video, he doesnt have a leg to stand on for any warranty. That head looks like a scrapper engine thats been left outside for months without a cover, letting water in ports where valves were open.

[@robertkorn]

Was going to post the same thing. Punch some numbers on a part you have machined to confirm you got back the same part.

[@beeftec5862]

Yep. Engine builder i used last put id code on head too, with vibration engraver. Could add it to your terms and conditions too, to keep things a-ok.

[@Bluescooby1]

You need to consider stamping enigines and heads when you rebuild them. Then you can catch out the chancers.

[@fivedotsdave9723]

Just as others have said a very discreet stamp or engraved mark (only known to you) would be a big help for yourself, so if a client returns with a "warranty" job and before any investigation work your discreet mark can be checked. I have had engines in for rebuilds or mods and have found stamps made by BBR, and a couple of machine shops here in N Ireland

[@fredflintstone8048]

There's another channel on youtube where amateurs' build cars and car engines, mostly Mopars. The guys had rigged up a way of grinding the heads flat on a V8 engine. The took a one by four board around a foot long or so, wrapped it with sand paper, and the strapped a car battery to the top of the board to give it some weight, and then push the board back and forth on the head with the board 90degrees to the length of the head.. They were demonstrating the grinding process for the camera. I laughed even harder when the board was wobbling around whenever they would move it. Your comment about never using sandpaper reminded me and I thought you would enjoy that. Who needs a machine shop when you have a stack of sandpaper?

[@edlingja1]

2 of the pots got wet, engine sat in the rain with valves open. Doesn’t have to be all that long to rust like that but the valves in the middle do look like they’ve been outside for 3 or 4 years.

[@aggopian]

That brake lathe is a blast from the past for me! I've used the Ammco, Accu-turn and FMC brake lathes in shops and parts stores I've worked at. They were all fine but I was a SURGEON with the Ammco! Thanx for the vid, Be well.

[@leecunningham5062]

I have built about 100 Triumph transmissions in the last 15 years, every one has my initials and month year stamped in the casing. Maybe a tie wire between 2 main bolts and 2 head bolts with lead punch seals, looks professional and gives you peace of mind.

[@jameshamilton4327]

Looking at that corrosion and carbon build up. Where were the 2 events, in the local pond about 3 years ago?

[@jamesandrews1130]

Really liking this. Nice to see real people doing high end work.

[@richardhartley1705]

Your views on the state of the Mazda engine did make me chuckle all sounds very familiar 👍👍

[@g0fvt]

Might be interesting to scope out the back of all the valves, looks like engine may have been sat outside with no manifolds. If there is rust on the back of the clean valves it would be a sign of whether the water was from outside. A cynic might think the engine was jet washed to make the outside look clean and then left....

[@roberttill3787]

Its a good point you make about jet washing.

[@snafu7998]

Good thinking! I did think about the jetwash therory. Got to be a true doughnut to clean a block and head with exposed ports.

[@hardergamer]

Good thinking on the jet washing.

[@jostouw4366]

Makes sense as the rust looks like no inhibitor, would also measure bores and crank to compare sizes with the rework record as for grinding off the mains studs end of argument no warranty!

[@markwest2936]

Agreed, pressure washed.

[@cossied01]

When you build an engine dont you record the engine number ?

[@alberthunt1639]

That motor has been sitting for at least 6 months with water in engine in order to rust the valve’s like that. I seen that in a lot of junk yard motor’s with the intake off sitting in the open weather

[@Thetravellingsandys]

Hi I was fascinated by the disc lathe,when I was an apprentice in 1976 yes that far back, I would go in to work on Saturday morning and all the men would bring there Discs and drums to be skimmed on a Lang centre lathe , The Forman said it would be good experience for me . I have a feeling he might have been charging the lads. great videos. Also I used to face F 2 stock cars and built and blowed up many 1300 fords u channel gives happy memories regards Ian

[@michaeltyre38]

I recently sent out a set of heads for a competition valve job along with HP springs and other bits, I had spent 8 hrs per head doing port work making them quite desirable so you can bet I put special stampings on them for identification .

[@bobroberts2371]

12:46 Have a look as cyl 2 and 3 in # 2 you can see at least 2 rings of rust. This will occur where the top ring sits when water enters the bore. # 3 has 4 rings. It looks like this engine had water intrusion and was turned a few times over a period of time. I'd also have a look at the back of the bearing shells for brand and date coding.

[@BennysCustomWorks]

Surely you’d record the engine number on every invoice? Every engine I’ve ever had built has the engine/ block number on the invoice. My cylinder heads always come back with invoice numbers stamped into them too. Perhaps things to look at?

[@markvardy5479]

Hi when you build your engines I would stamp them with number or letter stamps behind timing plate or bellhousing with the job number and a blob of paint at sump and head joints so you can see if they have been apart, also then you know it's your build, great videos keep up the good work

[@86lowrider]

Some of the shops here epoxy a button on the block and heads. They are heat sensitive with a logo for the shop on the button. If the button is not on it or has melted don’t even bring it around. It also has a date on it.

[@marksmith5156]

When I sold an engine when I worked at the breakers it was run up then I'd stamp the block write what it was stamped with in the invoice book so we new if they tried returning a different one back panels were marked with special paint that shines under us light

[@roberttill3787]

I have just watched this video, and i was going to suggest doing what others are suggesting. I would make a mark, in whatever way you fancy inside the engine block, somewhere not easily seen unless you know its there. I would also mark heads underneath where it cant be seen, maybe on a port somewhere, and once reassebled cant be seen. With ancillary stuff like water pumps i would take a notch out of the rim of a bolt hole, so once the bolt is in its hidden. You need to adopt this strategy with all engines you take in, and also something you dont seem to have mentioned, make a note of the block number when it first arrives. If you made up an ID card that the technician filled in as he worked on the engine, it could be added to the sales invoice in your records. This would tell you what was marked, identifying numbers, Etc. There could be no argument then when you had the customer in to discuss the failure. Currently I recondition cordless gas nail guns, and have made such sheets and laminated them so they dont soak up oil, and once complete feed them into the copier. I then wipe them clean with thinners for the next time i need a workshop card.

[@melclark1066]

Your business puts you in a situation where you have no control of what might be done to an engine once it leaves your shop. A couple of suggestioins from someone who has had similar issues ( diffent industry) We found trhe best defence against Idiots, liars, and others who try it on, was to document everything we did to a job. In these days, digital cameras are cheap, & you can keep a record of every step taken on a very small file. We also rersorted to stamping out own code on each job, ( job number will do) on ( in your case -say) block & head. Yeah, I know nothing cvovers everything, & taking photo every five minutes is a pain, but it becomes worth it whebn you find yourself with an irate customer & and engiine with unexplained issues. Cheers. Like you channel.

[@andrewrobinson2869]

That motor has not been rebuilt 10.months ago. He is trying to take you guys for a ride. You need to mark all your work in a place no one would know so you know its the same. .love what you do. Andy Australia

[@super6954]

There is a lot going on here with old work and not even guys that supposedly had it done still owning it. Your warranty needs to start the day it leaves your workshop, not 8 months to 4 years down the road when they finished the project or first fired it. It also needs to be original owner and some way other than strip down and guessing to identify it was even your original work/parts. I get the customer service and reputation bit running my own business, but some of these things you show the guys are taking the Piss. you should have way more work to do than wasting time on this stuff thats been messed around with by others and bought back wrong after with race/tuned engines. Honestly I'd say no way on warranty on them and document it that way at the start and when it leaves if it's a part build or other stuff done after your work. It's like me bringing you a NH boat engine like those 2 you have there, saying machine and tune the daylights out of it, and I'll take it and run it in a 2000hp pulling tractor. The first run it blows a rod out the side at 5000rpm off the line and i say it's warranty and your fault the rod broke. What are you going to do give me a new engine and the work that's 10 grand plus. I know guys it's happened to owning race engines but they are on their own with the bill and not the machine shops liability to cover it. You get enough of these guys out there they'll bankrupt you in the end, lots are after screwing others 500 quid plus the easiest way they can get it these days without honestly earning it. Take care.

[@jhfl1881]

Yes and no. As someone who has projects on the go, it is not uncommon to be a year or more after the rebuild that it is on the road. I do think that there should be some serial numbers logged, not only for warranty but for insurance as well. I don't know how you warranty something that is going to be raced, as a bad shift, poor cooling design maybe a shallow oil pan, it becomes more of a user issue.

[@ukcitizen1158]

Taken an Angle Grinder to the Bolts; End of Warranty. Let him take it to the ombudsman.....

[@richardcrowell284]

When I purchased my Auto Electrical business from my former boss when I finished my apprenticeship, I had a customer come in wanting a warranty on an alternator. We used to put a chrome type sticker with purchase date in code on the units. When I looked at the unit I enquired about when he purchased it. He replied about a month prior. I was mystified as had had the business for a couple of years and the name of the business had changed. Digging deeper I found out that he had purchased the unit from a wrecking yard and they told him that they had it reconditioned. On the sticker it states the unit was a guaranteed exchange unit. He got really pissed off when I went back through our warranty book and informed him of when the unit had been purchased , it was sold over five years before him buying it. I did manage to sell him another unit, this time with two years warranty.

[@jimamizzi1]

I think you might be right, how would you know if it’s the same engine, maybe you need to start using a unique stamp on the engine, great channel 🇳🇿

[@jordanwalsh8171]

Void!! Fair enough have a check over to see if the problem is anything to do with you but homemade gasket, custom sump and DIY engine machining is taking the pi$$! Like other people have said you should look at marking your future jobs to be 100% sure it's actually the same one you previously worked on

[@kimkeam2094]

Because there is such a high cost to you in covering warranties on top of the tooling etc, a simple claim is far more expensive than the labour to inspect and repair the engines. There are so many people out there that fail to have the decency to tell the truth what actually occurred or just take advantage of your nature and pull a fast one. A letter punch is a good idea, but with low cost laser printing available, you can print a permanent ID on every part used discretely. A friend of mine prints his logo with a reference number and looks great as well as the tracking peace of mind. I was called in to fit a hidden rev limiter after two warranty claims on the same engine, which suffered severe costly damage which was covered. However they were suspicious that the owner had absolutely thrashed it with no proof. I fitted the limiter and within a week they had the car back with complaints of misfiring. The memory of the limiter was proof and the car was placed in storage whilst they worked with the owner to cover costs for the previous repairs!

[@chrisbutlersmith9970]

Looking at that and knowing it was used for trials , which I think you originally said , I would say that has had water ingress through the inlet tract i.e. drowned in a huge puddle or stream which could of allso knocked the big end out . Strange it's rusty on that pot . Pull out the rods and see if they are bent . Just a suggestion.

[@aldertjeful]

This guy is lookin for a free ride. Best check engine numbers, and let him have it! Good luck!

[@frenchie7206]

In future I would mark up everything you install or supply as that looks like a scrap engine the head alone looks as if it’s never been reworked at all Great channel 👍

[@BarumEngines]

Thanks a lot buddy 👍

[@garymallinson2292]

The input shaft on that quaif box looks like it could be the same length as a V6 Cologne type 9 box, still the same spline and everything but there slightly longer on the spigot diameter than a standard pinto box. You can usually tell as they sit proud off either type 9 bell housings, the pinto sits sub flush and as such the one you have may be too long, you can fit a pinto type 9 onto V6 Cologne, however the input shaft is short of fitting into spigot bearing, the cologne box can only be made to fit a pinto by getting rough arsed with it and shortening the input shaft approximately an inch (and using the pinto bell housing obviously). Yes call it rough arse but where talking about putting these things together for banger racing with what we have, and forgive me if I’m barking up the wrong tree here but it might be worth checking out, its not easy to tell from a brief video clip and its a good number of years since I’ve had to mess around with these pinto and V6 setups so haven’t had eyes on one for a good while. Looks to be a great setup regardless and some cracking content for you guys, good luck and keep pumping it out.

[@emmajacobs5575]

Couldn’t you fit a spacer plate to make up the difference? In my world (Rover K series + type 9 in an MG Midget) we’re lucky enough to be able to get long or short bellhousings to suit whichever input shaft.

[@jamesduncan578]

It's been awhile since I have done any engine rebuilds, but based on what I have seen in your videos and quality and care you take building an engine, I'd bee handing that Mazda engine back to the owner with a bill for tear down and a "no warranty statement".

[@aga5897]

Oh ! You meant "am i happy with the engine You did" well, yes, that one is Ok. You asked "are you happy with the engine ?" i thought you meant the one i had in the toilet for a year. Then when you said to "just send it back to us and we'll fix it" i was amazed ! Sometimes a simple Communications error/assumption can cause the War.

[@v8bmwboy]

I worked for quite a well known engine reconditioner in Oxfordshire. We stamped every head and block we worked on and they still do. Most of the mating faces have a small non critical surface that can be stamped. The next reface would them machine away the old number. We would also stamp the amount removed previously. 👍🏻

[@brianwithers162]

In the day my MG sports engine bottom end was rebuilt to performance standards by Osselli engine services. Ran perfectly.

[@alaskanwolf7262]

If you are going to do custom engines maybe you could do a custom makers mark stamp that couldn't be duplicated. And placed in an inconspicuous location on the block/head/intake, etc. This looks like an old hydrolocked junkyard engine. 😀 Merry Christmas! 🎄

[@teamidris]

Disk lathe is a good tool. Skimming disks with the 3 jaw I can measure the run out from the jaw pressure. It’s only tiny and there are three ‘highs’, so it won’t be noticed. But it’s there. *other method is bolting the disk to a mandrel or face plate.

[@grahamsibbert2412]

You need to invest in a good quality camera. You need to put your own secret mark on all parts of any engine that can be replaced in addition to the main block and head. Document everything and put it in a file ready to be viewed should any warranty or complaint be made. To get over the situation of bolts/studs etc being ground off, I would take a general photo of the complete build before the sump/head is fitted. Sounds time consuming but will go a long way to saving you the problem of trying to persuade the customer that he/she is not quite right in the complaint. Plus any subsequent court action will be greatly aided by your photographic evidence. You could even use photos as a sales pitch in showing any customer the stages of each build when the job is complete. Any customer that sees the photos might think twice before trying to scam you.

[@cheyennedogsoldiers]

Back in the 80's I worked for a local engine shop and what they did was to stamp the build sheet number into the block along the sump mating face and on the head(s) on all builds. As for that head. Hmmmm, those valves look like they have been exposed to water for a long time. A few years back I was given a Ford 302 (5.0) V8 out of a crashed Falcon that had been dragged out of a lake. It had then sat for almost a year and didn't look as bad as that head. Just saying, something funky going on there.

[@MussaKZN]

A mate of mine stamps his initials on every engine or gear box he touches the owners are never told and it’s a different spot every time. And best bit he rubs his finger over the stamps with stencil paper to mark exactly where it is. Absolutely unrepeatable. And one guy tried, he brought an engine back for “warranty” with the same engine number and the three letters stamped on the block, My mate goes to his files and pull out the stencil to match up his stamps on this guy engine, looks the guy directly in the eye and said you did guess I’ll be this thorough. The guy stopped him checking and loaded the block back up and never said another word. Some people can’t be trusted ! Go with your gut feeling . Ps come back to comment on the other comments about stamping engine parts covertly. I thought my mate was a paranoid maniac but goes to show great minds think alike!! Ha

[@jasonharryphotog]

I’d suggest to your customer a good 360-380 Bhp for the cossie engine, + get a good anti lag in it will be plenty

[@tomwhit1982]

Fair play is all i can say. I have no time for people trying it on and ive been to small claims court on principle as you very rarely get any money back. I had a garage write his limited business off rather than pay me 3k. Best i could do was a one star autotrader review when he restarted the business up again.

[@ggale2721]

Maybe going forward you should look at micro dotting engines that you have worked on. Great channel by the way... 👍

[@jeffboyer8214]

A light hone with ATF or hone oil then look for pitting. I only say this because the walls look thin. Unless you are going Sleve the block. Serial # on the parts ? you need to keep track on a receipt from now on or add a specific number on the block & or parts worked on. 💪 this why you don't get hung out to dry My old shop would use a 5 digit number on all parts to that engine Block , heads , intake, rods, cam, crank, even pistions and covers valve , oil pan, carbs as well. This way he knew if something came back and what he did to it. He was a very detailed person. Not that I would ever do this you could eat off the floor at his shop he kept it that clean. To bad he has passed away sadly. His family didn't want to keep his shop going ): 😞. Be safe team.

[@gizmo6164]

……………. Phwoar, that Subaru 😍. Have to admit to a soft spot for Scoobies. 😁

[@derekpeters8946]

With the modern type of Dremel engravers is it time to mark the engine with a template logo and date. You need something the customer cannot copy easy.

[@johntosh6146]

Hindsight is always a wonderful thing. Maybe worth stamping the block and head or use marking paint in future. That way any warranty claims you can see for.definate if you have done the work or someone's at it

[@pistonpete44]

As others have said I'd mark my work discreetly. I used to have a customer who would mark all the service items on his car everytime it came in for service to make sure we had changed the points, plugs filters ect. I got wise to it so I thought I would play him at his own game, changed all the parts on service and boxed them up, sealed the box and put his reg across the tape, remarked all the new parts with his paint marks again and sent the vehicle out. Kept the box under the desk in the workshop office. Sure enough two days later I see him back having a very animated discussion with the boss, next thing they are both in the workshop, with the boss asking why I hadn't changed any bits at service. I said hang on, I got the box out the office and gave it to the owner and asked him to open it after checking the reg number written across the top. Needless to say he never marked anything again and went home rather red faced. My boss did call me a few choice words, but said it did make him laugh when the customer looked it the box with all his marked parts in there!!!!!!!

[@seanbailey8545]

I mean to be fair a lot of garages don't do shit for their service charge, especially of they are busy.

[@RobTheSquire]

I would in future add some kind of marking to any engines or parts you rebuild or modify to ensure that you don't get any bad encounters.

[@frankmurray9172]

Water damage more than likely sitting outside partially dismantled. Even if water didn't flow directly into it condensation can cause a lot of damage. I wonder if it was in an area where there was a flood?

[@prdoohan]

CSI on machining work like that block surface is going to tell you a whole lot. My day job is training apprentice and future machinists, You should see the bullshit they expect me to believe 🤣 "I ain't been on the linisher, I did it with a file!" 🤣 Time to start again young fella!

[@philipbunker146]

Might be worth marking engine blocks and heads you work on in future with a punch to identify for future issues such as this!

[@manuelblevins4711]

This customer needs to pay for disassembly !!! I would stamp every block and head i worked on in future !!!

[@timmmyehu4013]

sounds like its time to have a custom stamp made possibly BRM and stamp it in out the way place and will be able to identify if its the one you did for the customer or not .use to do this in the high end salvage yard engines save lots of head aches and dollars

[@kianward5999]

stamp the block with your discription and happy days dont let them act the bollox with ye great content love the channenl

[@creed6.549]

what i suggest you do is put a secret stamp or mark on all blocks and engines components or cylinder heads you do and you can make it year and month specific very easily

[@jamesrobinson9176]

Time to start signing your work.

[@samueljohnclark]

I concur with identifying (tagging) your work. These days you can laser etch your componentry with numerous ’tags’ without weakening the components being marked.

[@derekpeters8946]

Been thinking ! What about a small 1/8 drill and then grind the size down to a bit lest than 1/8. Now you make a gauge that fits the hole the drill makes very tight. You drill a small indent 1/8 deep on the outside and one at another location inside. If things go wrong you can check while the engine is in the car and when it’s out on the bench with the template plug you have made. It’s unlikely someone would be able to make the drill the right size or Evan see a small indent. Simple and no damage and almost invisible. Good luck.

[@martehoudesheldt5885]

i used to hand engrave a number on all the important parts (out of site) so if it came back i knew if it was mine or not (inv #)/ date. they also got a thermal tag. it came in handy a couple of times . big dollars

[@kennethtandy6504]

I worked at the Cosworth factory in Wellingborough in the1985 machining these original cylinder heads all machined casting were individually stamped and as each finished head was inspected and the machine operators recorded their name against that coded head

[@JenkinsLocks]

I'd like to quote the movie Clerks "this place would be great if it weren't for the customers".

[@super6954]

The first thing our family business taught me was some customers are an occupational hazard . The second thing was the customers always right, but they don't know what you're thinking when they turn and walk away L.O.L

[@andygilbert1877]

Pretty well every engine builder I’ve known has some way of marking an engine so they know it’s theirs if it comes back for any reason. I learnt that pretty early on, even in the same shop there’s usually someone out to diss your work. I doubt you’d show your marking in a KZbin video though! ;)

[@KXSocialChannel]

You've got some very good points to suggest that's not the same engine. You need to film all your work with cameras in the shop, and also laser engraving onto the engine block.

[@TheMadManPlace]

Every job SHOULD have a job card and the job cards MUST be numbered. DO NOT put the job card number on the customer copy of the invoice. Get yourself a set of (small) number punches that fit into a holder and punch the job card number ON EVERYTHING. Try to do it in a standard place - for example, on the inside of the rear main bearing web on a block, the front web on a crank or under the first valve spring seat on a head. AND DON'T TELL THE CUSTOMER !!! If you get a chancer and tell him that this is NOT the engine you did, he will ask how you know. AGAIN, DON'T TELL THE CUSTOMER !!! The answer is that he will have to take you to court to find out and once you prove it to the court YOU WILL sue him for ALL COSTS. If he then comes with "AND NOW YOU ARE THREATENING ME" you simply tell him that this is the standard way that you deal with clients that are trying to defraud you. IT WORKS...

[@madeljacky]

Heat accelerates the rusting process so if that engine was at working temperature and was submerged in water while mud plugging and the water reached two of the cylinders before it hydraulic locked then your valves and bore will show signs of heavy rust in a short time, heat, water and combustion gasses mixed are a corrosive combination. Also skimming discs is nothing to be worried about, good on you that you did it, you even have a proper brake disc lathe, i do them on a conventional lathe but they are a pain to get set up true as you have to turn them around to do each side in turn.

[@richardpalleschi4807]

Good old Amoco drum & rotor machine. Turned thousands of rotors on them. Just keep cleaning the chips off to keep cutting rotors true. 0.001 chip on the arbor = a big amount at the outer end of the rotor. Another thing I found you must clean the hub surface on the rotor & the face of the rotor where the wheel mounts. Rust = runout.

[@vincegranato4505]

Original engine? The few times I received assemble block or engine; the paperwork states the serial # and the hallmark/ID of the machine shop is stamped on (block & heads). Plus (now days in the U.S.) these items have overheat taps or buttons epoxy on the exterior. All this is to protect the the vendor & customer; warranty vs liability. Great videos and nice professional methods of your work & dealing with customers too.

[@heyitsjel]

I haven't personally worked on a mazda engine, but surely there is some sort of casting batch/vin/serial number on the block? It'd be pretty easy to tell if that's been tampered with as well (ie. cloned). The motor has definitely had some water in it, and could be that it was cleaned once removed, or left outside without the intake on.... which if the motor is only a few months old, is a pretty strange thing to do (ie. won't get that dirty in that shorter period of time). If I was going to be sending a motor back to the shop that built it, I certainly wouldn't leave it outside to make it look like crap. Another strange thing, is why is there so much corrosion in what I'm assuming is where the water pump is mounted (far right side?). If this in an alloy block, the only way I can assume a freshly built motor could have that much corrosion, would literally be to leave it sitting full of tap water for a very long time. The only place I can imagine most of this corrosion (galvanic) would come from would be the water pump impeller itself, as every other major part in the cooling loop is likely ally.

[@scorpnz4433]

A bit late to post now however an engine that's been tampered with unless he advised you has no warranty. The home made oil pump gasket is the cause of low oil pressure. That type of gasket paper hardens very quickly when heated & becomes brittle even tho it's supposed be for engines & oil resistant, which is quite frustrating. You showed the break that caused the low pressure. The gasket paper if i'm not mistaken is a different type to oem which is even more annoying as i've noticed oem tears differently when pulling parts aprt .Yeah man that bubbly corrosion on the ally takes a few months to get like that. Never knew not to use emery when working as a mechanic.Now it's been said it makes sense.

[@BillsAllotmentDiary]

I ain't a mechanic and have not got a classic but what I'll say is you have your gut feelings you know from how you operate if this is an engine you've worked on

[@markworth7609]

looking very strange, the rust and corrosion on the valves is suspicious might be a good idea to start recording serial numbers on the invoices

[@tobihaifisch7558]

If it is about original classic Ford parts (in general), you could even try to contact the guys at the Köln-Niehl plant, who do the restoration in-house. Can't tell, what they can source in detail, but from the looks of it, they can do great stuff. E.g., seen the DRM 3.1l Zakspeed Capri of Klaus Ludwig there... Or Steve Soper's DTM Sierra. Amazing!!

[@lifeofderv]

Stamp everything with the job number and yes I've seen this loads before on blocks and heads you can always tell when it's been machined or rubbed down always has the marks from what direction it's been rubbed

[@miceinoz1181]

Just never any shortage of spivs trying it on, is there! They must think you are blind.

[@2andmorewheels322]

That block looks like a soft top open to the elements for quite a bit!

[@MistunoriKapela]

You should have records of engine #’s you build especially if you have a warranty. You could also always leave a mark on the engines you work on in an area that no one would notice.

[@jackarmstrong46]

You need to mark the heads and blocks. Possibly from the inside so it’s not easily found. I’ve had jokers pull this sort of stuff before

[@NVMDSTEvil]

If there's no anti-swash plates the oil will fly all over and not feed the sump properly, or get frothed up by the bottom end of the engine. EDIT - You should tag your engines somewhere with a number punch and then note the number in your build log, probably on both the block and head.

[@jimginn7163]

You need to start magic water marking on the engines, then if one comes in for warranty work you can check if its one you actually worked on!

[@RobertELee420]

Hes brought you back his core trying to get another engine free.

[@aliulugun4045]

Bilt hamber do a solution you can spray onto metal to stop it from rusting. Well worth using if not using a car on a daily basis and you want to keep everything looking fresh ! Spray rotors and underside before it's put away after a wash and you're golden

[@leeoliver7151]

He’s taking you for a mug mate

[@robertoruiz7069]

HI ,yeah i used to do British cars a long time ago. EVERY time i did a head, block or complete build i had a stamp with the shops initials on it and would stamp the part where it didn't show.Some of my customers would show their cars and were super picky at having something not from the factory show.Mind you it was only 1 or 2 guys.I never worried about them, it was the moochers that wanted stuff for free that was an issue.but i gotta tell you sometimes when you need cash flow you just gotta take them in.Hence the STAMP>

[@CavemanGaming]

You're setting yourself up for failure. As an engine builder here in the US we put our own part number on each head and block we build, then record that unique number on a work order the customer never sees. Just take some punch stamps and punch the number where they can't see it. Bingo problem solved, no more BS warranty work. On high end builds (which we do a lot of) we even stamp the crank and rods. Now everything has to match, if it doesn't you escort them out of the shop and tell them to have a nice day.

[@bobroberts2371]

Customer could replicate the marks. A unique stamp and / or taking pictures of difficult to replicate features ( like casting variations ) would be a better idea.

[@woodrimcars2324]

What a beautiful Subaru. That Mazda engine what a mess and Good Luck 👍 talking with the customer too.

[@lelandlewis7207]

Get a custom logo stamp made and stamp everything that goes out, then there is no doubt if it wasn't done by you. I have machined hundreds of rotors and drums over the years with no issues as long as they are within tolerance. Many newer stock rotors don't take machining well, but performance package brakes are usually heavier and have better material. The issue with wide, shallow sumps is the possibility of a vortex forming from the pickup at higher RPM, especially with a high-volume pump A rectangular pickup can minimize this, but the best solution is a deeper sump to keep more volume above the pickup in conjunction with a well-designed pickup or a dry sump system.

[@killerrr3211]

Just found an old vega head the other day, no idea if it's good but it makes a good sign lol

[@dogboneknives7938]

Buy some metal stamps and stamp the block and head somewhere not so obvious to the customer and write it on your copy of the paperwork but NOT the customers copy. That'll put a stop to fake warranty claims.

[@petershepherd6889]

I think he must have been in the RAF. Because if bull shit can fly he would have been a squadron leader.🤭

[@iainf]

I know especially when he says ‘I can’t remember’ lol.

[@Azonche]

been there done that Hidden stamp time,,Saved my butt more than once