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The cellar ventilation system is aimed at simultaneously maintaining the set temperature and air humidity, therefore, the whole complex of measures should be considered at once, and not to talk about one microclimate parameter, in isolation from the others ...
1. The temperature in the cellar.
If we are talking about a classic free-standing underground cellar, then vegetables are best stored at a temperature of +1 to +3 degrees Celsius.
It goes without saying that the cellar should not be frozen, therefore, on top of the building there should be a layer of soil greater than the freezing depth in the area.
It is possible to lower the temperature in a buried room only in winter with the help of a ventilation system, driving frosty air into an underground structure.
In general, get used to the idea that in summer the temperature in the cellar will always be higher than in winter, the only question is how much, and what are your goals!
Learn to spend time rationally and open the cellar less often.
And if the cellar has been closed for a long time, then first you need to ventilate it from a possible high content of carbon dioxide, and only then try to get in there!
2. Humidity in the cellar.
The optimum humidity for storing vegetables in the cellar usually ranges from 85 to 95%.
We note right away that moist air is a mixture of dry air and water vapor.
Let's now get acquainted with the moisture content parameter, which will display the amount of water vapor in a kilogram of dry air.
In simple words, we will now determine how much water is actually contained in each kilogram of air.
In short, the winter air from the street is much drier than that in the cellar.
And just by heating the air by 10 degrees, its relative humidity will fall more than twice.
But this is all the same air and the same amount of moisture remains in it, this is just indicated by the absolute indicator of its moisture content.
Remember, the generally accepted measure of relative humidity in the cellar should always be considered in relation to other parameters, such as temperature.
By itself, it is uninformative and even harmful.
Let's recap...
All you have to remember is that in winter the frosty air will "dry out" our cellar because it has a lower absolute moisture content than the air inside the cellar!
It is for this reason that the walls of the cellar are usually not waterproofed, because on the contrary, we will need to compensate for part of the moisture removed in winter by the ventilation system.
Otherwise, the ventilation system will dry out the indoor air to the point of impossibility in winter.
…The best floor for a classic cellar is earthy and damp.
If we still need to lower the humidity in the cellar in the summer, because forced ventilation with outside air only increases its level?
To do this, our ancestors lit candles on the floor of the cellar and locally heated the air.
Air, when heated, absorbs the moisture surrounding it like a sponge.
Therefore, if you need to dry it, then lower the heater into the cellar, and measure the result of its work with a thermometer and hygrometer.
3. Cellar with a High Groundwater Level.
It is best not to build a cellar below the groundwater level, but to make it ground and sprinkle it with a hill of earth in the future so that nothing freezes there.
If you decide to build a buried cellar in such conditions, then you will need competent waterproofing, which is hardly possible to build from rolled or bituminous materials with your own hands.
Usually, water still finds a hole.
It may also turn out that by pumping water from the pit, you will wash out a certain channel, through which water will constantly ooze in the future and continue to wash out the rock, which will entail subsidence of the structure as a whole!
And God forbid, such a cellar will be close to home, otherwise you can lose your home!
Think twice before embarking on such an adventure.
4. Cellar ventilation.
Let's immediately indicate that ventilation, both with natural and mechanical methods of stimulation, only works if there is both an inflow and an exhaust.
How much air enters the cellar, so much must leave.
... To calculate the pressure (in pascals) that will be created in the cellar chimney, the following formula is usually used:
It is necessary to multiply the value of the acceleration of free fall by the height of the pipe in meters and by the difference in the densities of the external and internal air.
The height of the pipe should be understood as the difference in elevations between the point of air discharge to the street (the center of the exhaust pipe head) and the point of intake of the supply air from the street (the center of the intake grille).
As long as the temperature in the cellar is lower than outside, the draft will have a negative value and the movement of air through the exhaust pipe from the room to the outside will be physically impossible!
Thank you for attention!