Basic Ignition Description, Operation and Testing (any car)

[@fredmartin3117]

Just happened to stumble across this and got a kick out of you trying to explain the points type ignition and spark advance to students who probably have never heard of such a thing. Probably the same feeling to them as it was to us who were already out there when we encountered the transistor ignition. As you mentioned " a very scary moment" to us. I did install a number of the "Arc" systems in vehicles which utilized the points to trigger the transistor in the mid to late 70s and then later used the Pertronix and Compufire systems to convert quite a few different vehicles. Been repairing vehicles since the mid 50s so have seen some amazing changes, now I only take care of my own as I am 83. I always had 4 or 5 older vehicles in the yard to keep 'hands on' but don't any more. I did purchase your book a few years ago just to try to keep halfway up to date on all things automotive. Fred

[@pitchforkpeasant6219]

Mechanics today would’ve probably looked at say a stock 65 dodge dart and thought easy til trying to figure out the points. Ive forgotten its been so long and havent adjusted the dwell angle?in almost forty years

[@victor35ma]

They demonstrated how to measure the voltage generated by attaching drill to the other end of the distributor, this generator was able to generate up to 2.5 volt at drill full throttle (3000 rpm) also they demonstrated how to trigger the ignition coil using a AAA 1.5 alkaline battery since the voltage generated by the distributor average was 1.5 AC Volt, a battery could emulated it. Thanks for make me remember those days. You are an outstanding teacher

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Had to take apart an old distributor from my '89 Mazda MPV after watching this awesome video. At 225k miles, it's on its third distributor. On 89-91 models they mounted the igniter inside the distributor housing, meaning it gets very hot and eventually cooks the little circuit board. Tore the igniter apart and traced all the terminals...really neat! Also has two advance mechanisms: centrifugal AND vacuum! Should be getting a scope this month...can't wait to see some waveforms on that system.

[@johnthrossel9981]

It’s awesome to see the ripples of knowledge. @scannerdanner influencing @pinehallowdiagnostics. And how many more the both of you have influenced and taught to diagnose the problem. I am currently working on classic Porsche and this knowledge is exactly how the CDI boxes work. Thanks for the awesome lessons!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. This video was shot specifically from a question someone posted for me about his car. I was hoping others would benefit from it too.

[@victor35ma]

Thanks again. It is so incredible how oscilloscopes have changed the way auto techno see things now a day. You have made me remember of something… In 1989 I went to Industrial district of Kobe Japan to receive among other things some training on latest Toyota ignition systems. As you have stated it… there is a tiny AC generator within Japanese distributor. They taught me a quick fancy test using a Voltmeter and a triple A 1.5 Alkaline Battery.

[@Username64870]

Without a excellent teacher like you Paul,Students are doomed!.

[@zxtenn]

Paul, i used to have a few old 'muscle' cars back in the day with centrifugal advance dual point distributor, yes lighter springs = full advance at a lower RPM, usually about 37 degrees TOTAL advance the engine would run best and full advance would occur about 2500-3000 You videos are extremely interesting and also educational for troubleshooting--

[@nathantechnician2475]

You can't imagine our school syllabus is centered on this ignition system to this day at technician level. Your videos have been helping me to be up-to-date, much love from Zambia

[@ScannerDanner]

@contagiousFX No problem at all and it is not rude to ask. Of course I think it is as clear and it is definitely as in depth if not more so. Maybe some of my buyers could comment here for you? Of course videos coupled with my book is what really makes things click. Every chance I get I am trying to show the testing methods that are in my book. The best way to get a preview of what is in the book is to watch more of my videos, especially the smartboard videos where I am lecturing.

[@ScannerDanner]

Great insight. You can use a lower battery voltage if you like. I've just been using a test light to do it for 20 years and I've never hurt the transistor in the ignitor on any system. I know it is typically a lower base circuit voltage but what I have found is automotive computer systems can handle more without damage. Check out my Lexus LS 400 Igniter Bypass Test video.

[@tigerksewsankar7667]

Wow paul great teaching thank you.

[@stevensapyak7971]

Paul, the best tutorial of the inner working of the very first GM HEI circa 1975!

[@costumsticks]

There is a lot of great information in this video, not only a great explanation on the system but mainly the excellent points as to how to THINK about the system and have a solid understanding of what is needed for the system to perform as designed. Been in the field for awhile and it is scary sometimes to see "experienced" techs struggle so much with electrical diagnostics. If the current automotive schools are being taught by instructors like you, then future techs will be impressive.

[@rusdiosni2280]

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[@rusdiosni2280]

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[@rusdiosni2280]

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[@rusdiosni2280]

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[@MrDfloen]

Great videos Paul. I Just finished trade school, and I sure wish my instructers/professors taught and lectured like you do. I will be watching all of your videos and buying your book. Very impressed!

[@rp5029]

This video triggered the little dim test light between my ears...thanks for the thorough explanation ScannerDanner.

[@chemo523]

These videos are fantastic for any student in automotive industry such as myself.

[@Nypartcannon]

I’ve been using my book for a few days now it’s a real masterpiece

[@ScannerDanner]

That's awesome, thank you! Check out my classroom videos on my website where I'm teaching page for page from the book. I offer a 14 day free trial and it is only $11 a month after, giving you access to over 450 videos and counting. This video is an example of one that I have there www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html

[@ScannerDanner]

@Amopower Thanks for the comment! To get a review like this after you have had my book for a few weeks means I must be doing something right. Thank you so much again. Paul

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks man, I'm glad you liked it

[@Amopower]

@contagiousFX I bought his book a few weeks ago, I'd highly recommend it. It is very detail oriented, lots of diagrams and pictures and not just a bunch of words. I have bought some pretty expensive hardback auto textbooks over the years, hoping/expecting some good info on topics like fuel trim, only to be sadly disappointed (some don't even mention it!). This book will be your end to "throwing parts at it", lots of good explanations/troubleshooting in this book.

[@pedropedro738]

I just had a misfiring with Ford f250 6.2 the mis was cyl.#8 and I was conden the ecm because there was no ground to the injector the problem was the coil,thank for your classes I,m learning a lot in la, ca

[@tboneproductions2453]

Fantastic video! Thank you Mr. Danner. As a newbie, I need to watch these videos several times to get it to sink in. I also have your book which really helps. Thanks again.

[@ScannerDanner]

I do not know. I did this video for a guy that asked me a question here on youtube. I just gave him as good of a description and operation and testing method as I could.

[@ScannerDanner]

IT actually does "try to fire" when turned on but there isn't enough voltage generated to jump the plug gap yet. When "turned on" (current starts to flow) the magnetic field is weak and has to build to "saturation". Once you have a strong field in place, then it is ready to fire. Remember a magnetic field must be moving to induce voltage into a conductor. So shut down the current and this now strong magnetic field collapses across all these conductors and now you created enough voltage

[@nickayivor8432]

Good Afternoon ScannerDanner have a great day 👍 Take care ScannerDanner 👍 God bless you 🙏 Great tutorial thanks👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@ScannerDanner]

wow, that was a great compliment! Thank you very much.

[@paulmuff9883]

Manny thanks for this explanation as I’ve fitted one of the electronic ignition into my distributor of my 1938 Talbot and your exclamation with the transistor inside has clarified it for me as to how it works I like to know these things many thanks once again👍👍

[@ScannerDanner]

@MrDfloen Thank you very much and you will not be disappointed with this book.

[@josephdotson7992]

Hello I have an issue 2 shops couldn't find I am watching your videos to try and catch up my knowledge and fix myself hopefully. Thanks for all the content

[@richardjohn5216]

yes ,need to understand circuit design of your car,then you can test each part,find out what is missing ,then fix it,that was pauls main mission,get us to understand the design of the problem ,then can solve it ,he is a genius teacher ,he up my game ,with his style of problem solving ,i fix cars now ,his way,test light ,scope ,circuit diagram,circuit design,with them skills you can fix any think from a chainsaw to a battle ship,love paul to have a crashed ufo in his shop,and make a circuit design for it ,how to fix them,fly again ,bet he could do it too

[@قصيالزواتي-ش2ح]

Woooow thank you very much, its a lot of information, iam following you from Middle East - Palestine. You are amazing, God bless you.

[@stevensapyak7971]

Paul, at 19:00 to 20:00 of your tutorial,the signal conditioner uses a Schmitt Trigger circuit to change the ac reluctor signal to a dc signal to switch the transistor.

[@DependableAutoTruck]

it was a game changer no points to quit making contact no more point floating at high rmp no moving parts so to speak

[@gvvq-pi5ml]

Hi Paul, I remember the introduction of the ballast resistor, I can only say on British cars they had a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor in line with the primary feed, the reason was for cold starting, they had a 12 v battery and 9 volt coil, the B/R dropped 3 volts across it, so coil ran on 9V, when cranking the B/R was bypassed by a wire off the starter solenoid, as you cranked battery voltage went down to 9v, starter current drain, so coil got 9 volts whatever happened, cold start coil system - Fred

[@dondesnoo1771]

Yes saw in old gm &Ford

[@AuMechanic]

The ballast resistor is not for cold starting. The purpose of the ballast resistor is not to limit current flow across the points either when you could do that simply by having more primary winding's and greater primary resistance. A 3 ohm coil would give 4 amps at the points which is nominal. It's primary function is tuning of the coil oscillations. The coil system is an RLC circuit. It has a resistance (ballast resistor) on the positive voltage side, followed by an inductance (coil winding's) which is followed by a capacitance (the condensor) on the negative side when the points are open (that makes an RLC circuit) The capacitance, inductance and resistance determine the tuned frequency of the coil oscillations from mutual inductance of both primary and secondary winding's, which includes the plug leads. The resistance of the coil primary determines current flow, the ballast resistor is the circuit tuning part. Two problems with internal ballast resistors. One is if the ignition is left turned on for a long time with engine off the internal ballast resistor could heat up enough to blow oil out of the coil and kill it, the other issue was that during cranking when voltage dropped so low it compromised spark. With an external resistor it can heat up and wont burn up the insides of the coil, and it can also be bypassed during cranking by the starter sending the coil direct voltage not through the external ballast resistor. They could have had a third terminal on coils to allow the internal resistor to be bypassed during cranking but that would not solve the internal resistor overheating issue, the external ballast fixes both issues. If you turn on your ignition but don't start the engine after a while you will note the ballast resistor gets hot enough to burn flesh but when you start the engine it gets cooler, You can imagine what happens if that is inside the oil filled coil. So if you have an old car with internal ballast coil, do not leave the ignition turn on without the engine running for prolonged periods or you could fry the internals of the coil to the point it blows oil out if the points happen to be closed when the engine is not running and the coil is powered up. Some claim that it heats up and increases resistance to limit current and then cools down to increase voltage when running for more spark at higher RPM. It only heats up because it is drawing more current at low RPM or KOEO, converting that energy to heat that then increases the resistance over it as it heats up. And when the current drops once it is running obviously it cools down. That is not by design that is simply what resistors do as current increases over them.

[@Mahigeer1]

With your permission, I like to chime in. If memory serves (which is not too reliable these days), the reason for the resistor was to reduce voltage across the points in the distributer to reduce arcing, and to help with condenser. The ignition coil was rated 12V; but during running of the engine, it was supplied with less voltage due to the resistor. This reduced voltage would help reduce arcing across the points in the distributer and extend the life of the points. At times, the arcing would cause pitted points. In time they would not separate and drop the primary voltage in the coil. This would keep the spark plugs from firing. During the cranking, there was a “by-pass” wire from the starter solenoid to the coil primary post. This “by-pass” wire would provide 12V to the coil directly, so upon interruption by the points and collapsing of the primary side, it produced a higher voltage for the plugs. Since the cranking periods were shorter than engine running periods, it was an acceptable risk. After introduction of electronic ignitions, many of the issues of non-starting due to bad points were eliminated. Ignition systems have come a long way baby.

[@paulmuff9883]

Many thanks for your explanation as to how these works because I have fitted one of these electronic ignition systems off eBay into my distributor body on my 1938 Talbot and with your explanation about the transistor is very useful to know how these things work many thanks once again loving your videos that have only recently found👍👍🤣

[@ScannerDanner]

@victor35ma Thanks friend. You can also trigger these by touching battery positive with one finger and touch the pick-up positive pin with the other. It is a pretty cool test.

[@michaelharrison2775]

when a magnetic field collapses the lines of force in the mag.Eric field collapsing towards center induce a voltage in the coil magnetism is strong stuff

[@Upub5]

FYI: mechanical systems used camshaft lobes to open and close points. Not centrifugal weights. The weights modified only what the camshaft lobes were doing.

[@ScannerDanner]

Which would change the timing, in relation to piston position of when the points would open/close Maybe I misspoke?

[@Amopower]

I got pretty excited when I saw this one, but it was close yet no cigar, but still great learning material here. (i have a 90 Probe turbo, aka Mazda 626 turbo, and 94 Probe). This should also help out the Ford Probe guys who have a 1989-1992 GL model (2.2L non-turbo).

[@susanwalker3196]

Ignition power check.. Excellent video

[@tpcoachfix]

The distributor cap on these High Energy Ignition (HEI) systems was a larger diameter than the older points style systems because the secondary voltage was higher. This put the towers for the secondary wires further apart, so that the spark would not jump to the wrong tower (wrong cylinder).

[@AuMechanic]

Not true sorry. HEI had no effect to the size of the distributor caps.

[@mback12000]

Not accurate. That is a myth. The reason the cap is so large is to accommodate the coil into one assembly. Look at race ignitions with greater voltage, the caps are smaller.

[@isacshelton6967]

The Fluke 87V or 88V multimeter will detect a peak voltage at 250 microseconds threshold. That should capture the small drop. Having said that, I would prefer a scope to capture that of course in every instance, but at least that meter will capture that very short voltage event.

[@sivucit]

hi, at 32.04th minute, you said, we can use test light to bypas pickup coil, by providing on and off ac sinewave signal, to IGNITER, so igniter can turn on or off, i think we cant use test light because it is 12volt , so we should use 3 volt battery for that. I may be wrong. pls advise. your method is right to supply ground on and off on primary ignition coil but not as input to the igniter because you are passing 12v on and off, but ignitier expect 3 to 5 volt on and off. again i may be wrong.

[@ScannerDanner]

@Amopower Sorry to disappoint :) I could do the turbo model if you want. Just give me some time.

[@zxtenn]

Pick-up 'teeth' = 'lobes' on the point style distributor back in the day

[@ravenrock67]

Good video by the way....too many techs do not understand the principles of coil operation.

[@jimyep9971]

HEI ignition chiltons hand book made it easy in my time..........

[@rsanchez5676]

Not a sine wave and the ratio of primary windings to secondary windings is much easier to comprehend than “a hundred times more conductors”. From what’s generally taught to beginning students. I’m pretty sure the signal youre referring to isn’t a sine wave but closer to a sawtooth wave.

[@ScannerDanner]

The saw tooth you refer to is simply a characteristic of the pick up coil. If we are talking about a sensor that makes its own voltage, it is referred to as an AC sign wave. No reason to complicate it, wouldn't you agree?

[@simonmakole383]

Great video Paul, very informative.

[@TRcustomengineering]

@ScannerDanner Yes, the video was very clear to me.

[@ScannerDanner]

@TRcustomengineering Thanks buddy, will do. Was the video clear in its unedited form? I just wanted to get it posted for this guy asap. Hopefully this wasn't a mistake.

[@ozzstars_cars]

In this case was there a problem with the ignitor feed or a bad ground? Did the 626 owner resolve the issue?

[@paytonmac5665]

Hey Danner your telling your age LOL REALLY LIKE YOUR VIDS. Your very good teacher. TY.

[@ScannerDanner]

I just looked at a diagram, it is certainly a goofy system. I could help but I need some time. I got too many things going on at the moment. sorry about that

[@JMAE881]

Hey Scanner Danner, 2 questions, Is the resistor on the feed wire from the transistor to the primary coil a PTC resistor? It's literally just the condenser from the mechanical ignition system that has been moved internally in the move to electronic ignition systems? Do electronic ignition systems use both centrifugal and vacuum advance in conjunction with one another to achieve proper timing or was it one or the other? Thank you for your response. P.s. Your content is hands down the absolute best on youtube. I appreciate all the time and effort you put into this content and will be subscribing to your premium channel. Engine mechanics and diagnosis is easily my new addiction hahah.

[@Okie-Tom]

Great info as usual. As you were talking about his Mazda problem, I was thinking, could the ignition switch be suspect?

[@ScannerDanner]

@ScannerDanner I could also do the 94 probe for you too

[@ozzstars_cars]

I was hoping you would tell me there was a happy ending to the story. It would have been considerate of the guy to at least acknowledge you trying to help him out. Man i'm telling ya...grrrrrr. Btw, I am old enough (43yo) to know what points and condensors are...lol Once again another great video! Thanks

[@darrenwanybarrnga2100]

Hi mate I've got a Toyota land cruiser 105 series 6 cylinder petrol I'm having problem finding a circuit opening relay, I've stripped all the dashboard out which the local Mechanic told me it was behind the heater box which I haven't found it yet???

[@jamesdowling706]

You should have included the condesor during your discussion on an old conventional distributor as it holds the charge

[@zloben9000]

i dug and dug AND FOUND WHY ... so: current flow makes magnets, (current through coil makes magnet) but magnets make current and voltage, (magnet through a coil makes current) so when the current is gone the magnetism is still there(for a microsecond) this magnetism is transformed BACK into current and voltage. (as magnetism dies it is reborn into current and voltage) the collapsing magnetism is transformed to current and voltage.so its NOT COLLAPSING its transforming SCARY STUFF man

[@dondesnoo1771]

a condenser is necessary must be in the igniter ? to test a geo coil had to put 05 cap on. ground side &bypass cap to test on bench a battery charger

[@ScannerDanner]

It looks like the igniter is in the distributor according to my diagram

[@DependableAutoTruck]

chrysler did use ballast with their early electronic ign systems they had 2 one with 2 terminals and one with 4 terminals

[@secondwindmusicproductions]

Why doesn't the test light burn out when put on the coil negative if it spikes to 400v and the current can be several amps. Does the current collapse so fast that it is much smaller when the voltage is that high?

[@MrDuffboy202]

what if my car is missing the ten pin wire ? i have a 94 626 2L and its in a 94 ford probe its got some issues and cant hook it up to a diog because of the missing ten pin wire from the comp to the plug in any advice on that cuz im more or less screw unless i can figer it out

[@aminsutrisno3452]

Good evening, elementary school friends, I have a problem with the manual transmission unit BMW E36 M43 1997, it can't start, what I have done is replacing the ECU and the ews module as well as the chip... the engine starts but the problem is the engine turns off 16:45

[@pitttr2531]

08 crown Vic pump primes continuesly with key on new pcm new fpdm new fuel pressure switch any ideas p0193 code stored

[@TRcustomengineering]

Great video once again Paul! Will you let us know if that guy tells you how he did? Thanks.

[@ScannerDanner]

not sure my friend

[@michaelharrison2775]

a bucket of words tin the previous video that I watched the instructor was just spilling buckets of Domino's the word salad did he spilled showed that he knew what was going on but he didn't explain it in a way that imparted what was going on to the Observer unless perhaps Observer just goes over again and again and again but the people weren't getting the cause and effect out of you need to call us and in fact at every point and every step and this video he just basically was forced to deviate to it pure Electronics to explain the magnetic fields and transistors both where to purchase water is needed for one to understand and that's just a necessity but all-in-all I saved this this instructor did a pretty good job but still might be clear on the Electric electrical aspects that he tried to explain I love the stuff is it is a direct eickhoff I have a crankshaft rotation it represents a crankshaft rotation and of course in any given degree on crankshaft rotation is when an event takes place like a valve is open or closed or a spark takes place in so this is that is what the cam was about and they all mechanical white and and they replace the mechanical with away with electrical and it becomes a little bit more difficult to explain when you switch out the mechanic mechanical would be quit when the the pecan the cam reaches a certain degree on the 360° Circle so when do points open because of the cameras at a certain degree rotation it causes the field and that calls who collapse which is what causes a spark he did a good job of explaining that for every section of degrees which may be at 15° maybe it's twenty-two and a half but at a certain point around the circle in degrees is wondering if it takes place cuz it's a rotating shaft everything revolves around the shaft in the rotation in the degrees of rotation events are planned for a certain degree of rotation I say so. Follow-up mechanically if you check it after I turn the crankshaft and and watch the it's all coordinated so the electrical short story throws a curve but if if the electrical can be appropriately explained and then compare it back with the mechanical one can get a solid understanding but the one has to separate the electrical electrical functioning from the mechanical even though they're linked

[@serchmarc]

good video like always paul.thnks for sharing

[@4dirt2racer0]

lol, both spellings of igniter/ignitor are correct, actually just slightly different meanings

[@ScannerDanner]

interesting, so which one applies to our field? lol

[@davidlittle657]

What about the condenser?

[@1mouse3]

what about using min/max off a meter to capture the high/low volts off the control or the pulse width setting on some

[@roelnavarro88]

I have a 2010 Dodge Ram got a map code ,all my sensors voltage are 5.0004 volts it’s just stuck at that voltage with key on

[@ryanworks35509]

13:47 I think I found my issue. Customer states they left vehicle in the run position overnight. Came back the next morning and vehicle will not start. Could this coil saturation have caused all of the coils to burn out over night? Battery was dead the next morning. Vehicle will not start with charged battery. 2008 nissan sentra coil on plug design

[@ScannerDanner]

Unless there was a coil driver issue, keeping the coils energized with the key on (which is not normal), then I do not believe this to be your issue. Scan it for codes as a starting point. Could be anti antitheft related. Try disconnecting the battery and then touching the disconnected cables together (called a capacitor discharge)

[@leebundy5246]

Hey I have a 85 chevy s10 / tahoe pick up truck v6 it won't crank or start what could it be? its not the battery the lights radio everything else comes on.

[@redsson6669]

quick question, at the very end of the video, you said that if the test lite lights on the coil neg, and if you check it at the distributor and it doesnt light up, that you have an open on that wire, how would it light up at either test lite, if there is no voltage at the distributor, thats the same wire that feeds the neg side of the coil. even if the open is inside the distributor,wouldnt both coil neg and at the distributor be dead? if it was a short? cause its the same wire?

[@ingejeppesen1358]

frank hager there is an open in the wire between the distributer and the coil. the test on the coil would still light up.

[@johnmckamy6398]

my 96 s-10 did this same thing only it would start fine until I warmed up and then the ignition control module would quit working and I would lose spark

[@icealexsanzage]

Ok everything is clear but question if the dashboard show me the light gauges and the pulse is not show from the harness coil and then the 2of 3 harness from my pcm don’t clicking when I connect I think computer or what is if I buy already all parts coil distributor spark plugs wires everything except for the pcm? Dodge Ram van 1500 2001 :) thank you

[@ScannerDanner]

I'm sorry, I am not following your question

[@icealexsanzage]

Ok I replace all for make spark right , so my question is if I have pulse in the inyector but not from the wire coil following you class about ignition I’m just noticed the only one issue have to be my computer the ecm bcs I try everything replace everything and still just cranking but not give me spark I need some clue before but a new pcm(2001 Dodge Ram van 1500 8 cil 5.2 any video can help me if you have one please I hope you follow this thank you

[@ScannerDanner]

@@icealexsanzage maybe this one will help you kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5yQeKR-pbR-d7s

[@evlmpyr]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@elisahachiles634]

who drive the distributor to rotate sir

[@aminsutrisno3452]

The engine turns off after dibleyer and sometimes there is an explosion in the exhaust

[@michaelharrison2775]

a hundred times the number of turns is what steps up the voltage

[@pk6336158]

What if the index on the camshaft was broken or something

[@johnnyheckard7185]

why not votage drop test to check the wires from ign switch to coil then to dist then the same on ground circuit?

[@ScannerDanner]

It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there. Paul Danner (ScannerDanner) www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html

[@tommygunz341]

I have a 95 mazda millenium 2.5 with the same problem and I cant find a ignitor anywhere no spark brand new dist but old ignitor and cant find one anywhere

[@ahmedalnumairi3498]

Do you give out the PowerPoint presentations in the premium?

[@ScannerDanner]

Most of this stuff is in my book, which I teach through in my premium classes. Thanks for your interest!

[@rickkropp1666]

Hey , I have a 2004 Mazda Miata MX5 and I called the Mazda dealer and he says that there are only 2 O2 sensors on my mx5, Iv found the first O2 sensor and thought I found the second, but it must be something else. The first one is just behind the connection from the headers and the exhust pipe, I found another one after the catalytic converter, then looking for the hole to replace the second O2 sensor I found a third, which turns out to be the second sensor right in the catalytic converter right in the middle of it. So my question is what is the sensor that I took out after the converter if the one in the converter is the second O2 sensor?

[@ScannerDanner]

Front O2 = B1S1 Second O2 = B1S2 Third O2 = B1S3 This is probably a California emission vehicle. The B2 and B3 sensors are used to monitor the cat.

[@ScannerDanner]

sorry, I meant S2 and S3

[@mubirukadiri4632]

Thanks 👍

[@KrishnaSingh-cr9bp]

I am haveing a problem wiring a qg 15 engine brain hanis in a cs2 lancer ggi modle to the dashboard how do you test yhe wires to go way?

[@ScannerDanner]

You'll need some wiring diagrams for sure. Here is a place you can find some service information. scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/16-need-service-info-check-here.html

[@karlhonda9013]

great vid mr danner

[@vikinghauler3244]

The resistor was to protect points ,not coil

[@ScannerDanner]

No, the condenser protected the points, the ballast resistor protected the coil from too much current at low engine RPMs as the on-time (dwell) was much much longer

[@vikinghauler3244]

@@ScannerDanner Ok.But for argument sake how does HEI which uses 12 volts instead of 4 or 5 and just flips the dwell rate from descending to ascending as rpm increases not go thru coils ?

[@ScannerDanner]

@@vikinghauler3244 it has a built in current limiting feature to the transistor that controls the coil. Once it is saturated, current flow is limited, hence the current ramp and then flat top characteristic on a primary current waveform on a scope

[@DependableAutoTruck]

do a loaded ground check to dist body

[@martyisabeliever]

Old Skool... yea thats so me Paul... GM Big Cap HEI

[@raymiles691]

Some Mazda's & others have 2x 1.5K$ ignitors🤯! ( Cost in 80's - 90's )

[@areid1440]

Gold!!!

[@johnsonbobo2376]

what do you mean Mitchel. you've said this before. is this a site you can get free access to diagrams?

[@ScannerDanner]

Mitchell on Demand is a professional program that costs around $170 a month. There are options for you guys where you can buy access to a single car for a month for $20 eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1= With this you'll get service information and wiring diagrams

[@stevensapyak7971]

Correction: square wave signal,not dc signal.

[@renj6531]

27:37 That just may be true. I believe they reverse engineered Alien technology

[@studio3356]

Where are you get that wairing daigram from????

[@ScannerDanner]

The program I use is called ShopKeyPro and is about $150 a month. There is a DIY version where you can buy a 1 month access to your car for $20. Here is a link to a thread we've created on my forum that contains info about this www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/16-need-service-info-check-here.html