Basic Wood Veneering Techniques Made Easy

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You may have noticed that the video doesn't show me removing the blue tape from the back side before placing it into the vacuum bag. The answer is YES, I did remove the tape, but I forgot to show it in the final edit. Sorry for any confusion. I also want to let everyone know that I've reconsidered which glues to use. Many people use regular white and yellow glue with veneer, but I now recommend using glue that is specifically intended for veneering. Unibond One is an excellent choice: www.woodcraft.com/products/unibondone-veneer-adhesive-quart?gclid=CjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvckbvqqWEnlYTg7fL3fSdUV0FIhaZ0vGOp6x1qS2sxndZa10w0k11IhoCISUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[@greglima408]

Charlie, while I've been a professional woodworker/cabinetmaker for 40 years, I was scratching my head when I realized you did not show yourself removing the blue tape from the glue side. I knew you would have to but it took me several minutes to confirm that in the questions/comments. If I was a beginner I'd have not even thought of removing it. I'd suggest at least showing a message on the screen reminding people to remove the blue tape before applying the glue. It could prevent a novice from learning something the hard way when the tape telegraphs through the finished veneer. Very good instructions otherwise.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Greg, you're absolutely right about the tape and I feel terrible about it. I didn't realize that I omitted removing it from the video until after it had been uploaded.

[@paulharris6977]

@@JackbenchWoodworking Jack I think Greg is suggesting that you use a pop up text box I think KZbin will let you add to your video at some timestamp. Thank you for the video!

[@ernstseider]

I realized the same thing about the tape and even went through the video a couple of times thinking that I missed something. Figured it was an oversight but was glad that someone else realized the omission. Good job with the explanations.@@JackbenchWoodworking

[@duraisingamvelu]

I fell in love with the way you instructed it. . . more than even the purpose I came here for. You are at ( or even more than ) the grade of any lecturer in Harvard or MIT. Kudos !!!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you so much! I am smiling now! 😃

[@rajanmathai]

Your instructions are so clear. You talk like teacher in olden days school. Much appreciated your time and efforts. Subscribed

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you so very much.

[@ejicon3099]

Well done. Reminds me of the clear instructions I would receive from a professor or expert in college back in the day. Thanks so much.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks for you very kind words

[@migbern68]

Well.Thank you for your video. I worked in kitchen company, now I am looking for a job a in the same field and your videos are very helpful to learn more. Thank you very much for you wonderful and very comlpete explanation.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you, I'm so glad that you liked it.

[@chadlowrance3999]

Charlie i really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. i severely underbid this job so any help is greatly appreciated. thanks for keeping it real

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Let me know how it goes. I would love to see before and after pics!

[@ajmalyusaf3169]

Amazing and very helpfull description you made. Very simple english spoken and understantable language. First time to see how veneering is carried out. Love from Pakistan.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I'm glad you liked the video, thanks so much for the nice comment.

[@rodneyallen2672]

thanks. Im taking a veneer class right now and this helped clear up some confusions.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Rodney, I'm glad the video was helpful to you!

[@bobloblaw7879]

great video, no ums or "go ahead and", great info, fast paced, A+. Thanks!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank You!😊

[@57hound]

Fantastic how-to! Your verbal descriptions complement the visual. I have been intimidated by veneer, but after seeing your video I am eager to give it a go someday. Thanks for posting!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks man! Veneering adds so much to your "bag of tricks", give it a try and let me know how it goes!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions when you are ready to try veneering for the first time.

[@57hound]

Jack Bench Woodworking thank you!

[@hernandezr2216]

What do you mean by white glue? Is it like Elmer's glue?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I'm sorry I didn't respond MUCH sooner, but I just spotted your question. Yes, I mean Elmers Glue All.

[@alansimpson596]

Great video. As a keen hobby wood worker I've always found the thought of veneering a bit intimidating but now I think I might give it a go.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Alan, I am so glad to hear that. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

[@johnmay3266]

Thanks for the 101 veneering lesson. I've been wanting to see something like this for a while now. The last veneering I did was 30+ years ago and the veneer had a glue back that was ironed hot and that adhered it to the substrate.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks John! I'm glad you liked the video.

[@ellbdotmusic3521]

Perfect! This is going to help me to restore an end table from Italy I had in my family for decades. Thanks for sharing.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Fantastic! Thanks.

[@richardnineteenfortyone7542]

I used blue tape in place of veneer tape on the show side. Everything worked pretty well when I placed the veneer on the substrate (inside of a kitchen cabinet door). But while the glue was drying under a towel pressed by a flat board and about 40 pound of old copper pennies, the veneer seems to have expanded so that there was about a 1 mm overlap at one of the seems. Also, there were a lot of gaps around the edge where the glue did not bond. I used a razor blade dipped in glue to work glue into the edge gaps, and to cut through the overlap (and work more glue under the veneer there). The result was full of ripple and a lot of unbonded interior areas. Looks OK after sanding, seems OK as long as you don't touch. I'm glad it's the inside surface of the cabinet where nobody will notice. Fantastic perfect video, blah blah blah, etc. Except you don't mention anything that can go wrong and how to fix or avoid it. I have a large supply of sheet mahogany left over to experiment with. It is all your fault for getting me started on this.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Richard, I'm glad you liked the video. How to fix what can or might go wrong would be a very long video and sure enough, I would miss something. I can't say what happened with your project, but maybe the pennies didn't provide enough pressure and/or the pressure was uneven across the panel. Or, possibly the veneer moved while you were applying pressure. I've had good success using clamps on small to medium size panels. The trick with that is to use thick cauls to evenly distribute the pressure. Also, put a piece of wax paper over the panel to prevent it from sticking to the cauls.

[@boephco]

Great over view! I have been using dry gluing and attaching with an iron but just got my first vacuum bag. I think the best practice is that you have the veneer smaller then the substrate and then cut the final assembly to what you need. I understand this since the bag will want to bend the veneer over the edge if left larger then the substrate. Most of the work I do is for re-veneering existing sewing table cabinets. In this process I disassemble the cabinet and either take off one or both layers of veneer depending on the amount of damage. The issue comes into the the edge of pieces are double fluted like an ogee router bit and I have been trimming back the veneer after it has been glued down. I did try some scrap and left the veneer hang over and when in it came out the edge was not glued down very well; the bending of the veneer must be lifting it off near the edge. When I put the veneer in, with out glue, and clamp it it makes and nice edge that I could use as a mark for cutting it off before gluing it up. Do you have any other suggestions?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I'm not sure what the best way would be. If I'm understanding you right then you're saying that when you overlap the new veneer across the edge profile then the veneer doesn't stay flat. But, it does stay flat if you use clamps and cauls. Maybe try using a heavy caul inside the vacuum bag.

[@boephco]

@@JackbenchWoodworking good idea, I will give that a try; have to see how the clamping will work in the bag, or should I sandwich the assembly between some 3/4" MDF board

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

@@boephco I would sandwich it between some 1/2" material, maybe 3/8". Then tape it in place so that it's just a bit larger than the veneer before placing it into the bag.

[@boephco]

Well I had all things set and then I chickened out. I ended up tracing the veneer on the piece and within 16th to 8th of an inch which was close enough to tape it sufficiently to get it in the bag. I was too concerned with how much it was overhanging and being able to get the tape held on correctly and holding into position. On another note my 1st piece I did I ended up using a polyester net fabric the that was probably too thin or not stiff enough and ended up putting in a small imprint from the tube inlet; was able to iron and sand out sufficiently. On my 2nd piece I ended up using the netting that came with the bag and it actually gave the veneer a texture because of the netting. I think this was partially due to the quality of the veneer itself. I am going to try your method of using window screen. This has been a good learning process for me and again I appreciate your video that you provided.

[@StephEWaterstram]

I found out the hard way My Coffee Table I have has a wood veneer sheet by sanding a stain on it. I was a little upset at first until I had to do the research.

[@wendygoicochea5910]

Thank you for this video. I have an antique desk that is in need of veneer replacement on the top. Now I can do the work myself. I wont have to pay anyone else to do it and I will have a desk that I had a hand in repairing.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I'm glad to hear that! Let me know if you have any questions about that and I will try to help

[@wendygoicochea5910]

@@JackbenchWoodworking Thank you very much.

[@richardnineteenfortyone7542]

I would recommend that beginners do a piece of scrap before working on a serious piece. Note that Titebond glue can be instantly set by application of heat from an iron. The “cotton” setting is hot enough.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Richard, I always do a test piece with any new technique. Absolutely, yes a hot iron is a great way to adhere edgebanding and small pieces of veneer.

[@jeremyc7786]

Love your videos, thanks Jack! When you then trim the panels, can you do this with a track saw or is veneer likely to splinter?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! A good track saw is a great way to trim the panels because they tend to have minimal tear out. You can improve your odds of eliminating tear out by keeping the show side facing down. This way the blade is cutting in (or up) towards the show side.

[@jeremyc7786]

@@JackbenchWoodworking that's great to know as I'm planning a kitchen build. Thanks Jack!

[@mr.shellcracker9161]

This video is great. Thanks for the straight forward presentation.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks so much, I'm glad that you liked it!

[@JodieRosenberry]

I have a solid 1920 dining table and I’m replacing the wood veneer top. There is another layer between the veneer and the table top. Can you tell me what it would be and how to apply it to the table top. Is it a two step process or done all at once with the veneer

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Veneer is typically applied directly to the substrate, and I'm not sure what the "second Layer" is. My guess is that it's another layer of veneer that was applied with the grain running 90 degrees to the face veneer. If you removed both layers then it's best to replicate the original construction. The safest way to apply two layers of veneer to an existing table would be to apply them one at a time.

[@albertomarruffo6279]

Thanks man. I am building some speakers and this helps so much.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad to hear that!

[@szbert]

Brilliant instructional. Great details. Too many to mention. THANK YOU

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks so much for the positive feedback!

[@chuckhart8970]

Good info Jack. Thanks for taking the time to show the process.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks for watching, Chuck.

[@bobputman5947]

hey charlie, nice video, ive never worked with veneer and your instructions were very good, i do have a 4x8 sheet of walnut that ive had for a long time, im waiting for the right project...thanks a bunch.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks for watching. Wow, a single 4'x8' sheet of veneer, that's a big piece of veneer!

[@williamrendall134]

I enjoyed your veneer demonstration thank you, will help me in refitting the teak veneer onto my cupboard table, because I thought Nathan Furniture was pure wood oops I found out it is "NOT I Went Through Approximately 6" Square into Chipboard". I have just ordered up all I need to fix my cupboard.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I'm glad it was helpful to you!

[@KSFWG]

This is something I have never tried as I always thought it was a complicated, intricate process that I thought I wasn't ready, or perhaps capable enough, to try. I might have to re-think that. Thanks for the information. I look forward to seeing some more.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! Basic veneering is really pretty easy.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Let me know if you have any questions when you are ready to give it a try!

[@KSFWG]

Thanks, Charlie! I'll keep that in mind, but right now I'm deep into a couple of other projects.

[@janiceobembe1076]

Thank you for all the tips,never have done this and will need to do this on a dresser.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Janice, I'm glad you liked it!

[@Shopcat22]

This was very helpful. I've never worked with veneer, so this will come in handy once I need to use it. Thanks.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Waylight Creations Thanks for watching, Ryan.

[@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549]

Charlie, Nice presentation. Liked the idea of the PSA on the square aluminum tube. Also liked you tape dispenser. Thought about the vacuum you used and hey it works!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Tom. Of course I learned all I know about veneering from Tom Schrunk!

[@PSCThrillSeeker]

Awesome how to vlog Charlie, looking forward to the rest of the veneering series!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I am glad you liked it!

[@karenbaldry8096]

Fascinating tutorial Thankyou. Now I understand what veneer is. ❤️

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you so much!

[@bullrun44]

Thank you JBW, I’ve learned quite a bit with this video.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

tango down Glad to hear that this was helpful! I have a few other veneering videos on my channel and plan to add more sometime in the near future.

[@johnnelson3158]

Hi, I'm totally new to the concept of using veneer, and I was just wondering why it's so important to keep it in sequence? What would happen if you were to just grab pieces at random and apply them? Great video by the way, you've earned yourself a new subscriber!!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI John, two sheets of veneer that are together in the sequence will be nearly identical. The further they get away from each other the less likely that they will match each other. Very often this is irrelevant. But, sometimes I want to put two (or more) matching pieces together. In this case, it is important to keep track of the sequence. My video on 4-way book matching will explain it better: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iaqsmKpmqsmmipY

[@neilyeag]

Very good explanation. One of those things I always shied away from. Maybe I will give it a shot. Thanks for posting.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Neil, it is really not that difficult.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Neil, I will be happy to answer any questions you might have when you are ready to give it a try, so don't hesitate to ask.

[@thomasclemens1386]

Hi Jack, I am about to embark on my first veneering project. The boards I am trying to veneer are about 5 feet long. I don’t own a vacuum pump or a vacuum bag. Can you rent them anywhere? Secondly I wasn’t planning to veneer both sides since one side will be the lower portion of a shelf. I hate to use a good quality Birdseye maple veneer for the underside of a shelf that no one will see. What about using some Baltic birch plywood. The multiple veneers of the plywood would keep it pretty dimensionally stable. Thoughts? Also I don’t know if a veneer bag can accommodate something that long??

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Thomas, you can absolutely fit a 5' board into a vacuum bag. If there are any maker spaces, or woodworking guilds in your area then maybe you can find one to rent. If the boards aren't too wide then you can probably press the veneer using clamps and cauls. The veneer on each side of the board do not have to be the same. You can use birdseye maple on one side and a cheaper, secondary veneer on the other side. You can use plywood as a substrate, but you still have to add veneer to each side to prevent imbalances.

[@bothibblin2367]

Your videos are just great. I’m new to veneering so I will intensively study them as you go along. Thanks, Charlie!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Bo! Don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions.

[@johncole9964]

Nice video of the basics of veneering. Did I miss you talk about removing the blue tape before gluing down to the substrate ? .

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks John. No, you didn't miss anything. I accidentally omitted removing the blue tape from the final video. Sorry for the confusion.

[@user-ms6ji7mm4y]

Thanks for the great vid! I'm going to try some larger pieces when I do my garage cabinets.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad to hear that my video was helpful to you!

[@tcanute6707]

Awesome work! I'm new to this and I am going to attempt veneering a vintage Yamaha receiver cabinet once I gain a little more confidence.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Go for it!

[@yardcotulsa]

Excellent video! I'm new to veneer and am so excited about the possibilities and beautiful items that can be made and thanks to you (after watching several other videos that seemed confusing), i'm looking forward to jumping in to a project and not so nervous! Thanks for taking the time and I'll be watching your other videos! Tim

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Tim! It is so nice to know that people are able to begin veneering by watching my videos. Let me know how it goes for you!

[@normanirvine6731]

I like your easy to watch videos Charlie. Where do you get those wonderful looking veneers?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! My favorite places to buy veneer are CertainlyWood.com and VeneerSuplies.com

[@kathleenbasieiwcz4636]

Really enjoyed your informative video. Now I know where to start using veneer. Thanks.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Kathleen, I'm glad you liked it. I have other videos on veneer and plan to upload a few more later this year.

[@nathanduitch2521]

I wish I would have watched this A LOOOOONG time ago! Great video!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Nate!!!

[@nathanduitch2521]

Jack Bench Woodworking one thing: do you take the tape off the side that you glue down? I didn't see that part.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Nathan Duitch Yes, remove the tape from the glue side before pressing the veneer to the substrate

[@allnamestaken0]

Thanks for the video. Were blue tapes on the back side removed before gluing or stayed on?

[@EgyptFishingVideos]

Lovely job! Very simple and useful. Thanks.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Glad you liked it!

[@researchcapt]

Wow...I learned quite a bit. Thanks

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!

[@GuysShop]

Some great information Charlie. I also have never seen the trick with the sanding bar for jointing the edges. I will definitely try that on my next veneer project which is coming up pretty soon. Thanks so much for putting this video together!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Guy. I think jointing the edges with sandpaper helps to get tighter seams.

[@michaelstandridge6056]

GuysWoodshop No Kkkkkk K

[@darrendirk4427]

@@JackbenchWoodworking what grit of sandpaper did you use on the aluminum tubing?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

@@darrendirk4427 Hi Darren, 120 grit works pretty well for sanding the edges of veneer.

[@Quarantain]

Net video, especially the pump. Hadn't seen that before and it appears to make the process more doable. What do you do though with edges, say if you wanted to use that MDF piece as a door? Do you fold the veneer or do you need to cut it and sand it just like the rest? Will the vacuum bag work for the edges just as well?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

There are a few ways to finish the edges. One way is to cut small strips of veneer and glue them on. I usually iron them on. The process is to spread glue on both the edge of the board and the strip of veneer, then let the glue sit for at least 10 minutes. It's ok to let it sit overnight, too. Then apply the strip of veneer on to the edge and press it in place with a hot clothes iron. You can also glue small strips of hardwood to the edges. In this case, you would clamp them in place just like any other glue up.

[@markjohnson7864]

Good overview of basic techniques

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Mark, I'm glad you liked the video.

[@colinperkins7564]

Born teacher. Thanks for a great vid.

[@davidgregory7984]

Very detailed and comprehensive! Thanks for sharing

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Glad you liked it, David!

[@paulwhite1975]

Hello that was very easy to follow. Thank you. Just seeing this for the first time I know it's been on seven years. Do you take the blue tape off the back before putting in the vacuum bag? I didn't see you do that and I'm wondering if you leave it on.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! Yes, I did take the tape off before placing it into the bag, but I forgot to show that in the final edit.

[@alexcarlos6946]

Such a nice video and wonderfully explained. Thank you very much!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you!

[@blueblur6447]

Look forward to more in this series. Something I have never done, but you break down into something achievable. Thank you.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Daniel! It really is that easy.

[@Tlee521]

Very good video. Great concise, detailed instructions. Just subscribe. Look forward to more.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Awesome, thank you!

[@SantiagoArraga]

Very well explained, thank you very much.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!

[@jamesbuhler2491]

Great video, would you be able to show how to do concave and convex surfaces? I have a piece that has both. Thank you

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks James! I'm not planning a video about convex/concave surfaces, but Scott Grove has an excellent video on just that and I highly recommend it: www.imaginegrove.com/veneering-curved-edges/

[@danpark417]

Great video on the basics of veneers, just what I needed! Question: What's your take on PSA Veneer? Can it hold up in a kitchen cabinet face environment? Thanks!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Dan, I haven't used PSA veneer. My guess is that it's "OK", but I wonder if it would have adhesion issues. I have used iron on veneer for edgebanding and it works great for that. I'm not sure how well iron on would work over large areas, though.

[@jenanderson6286]

What method do you suggest when applying veneer to drawer fronts or other pieces that wouldn't fit in the bag?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks for the question. You can apply veneer to smaller pieces using clamps and cauls. Smaller meaning anything that you have enough clamps to secure the whole surface. Otherwise the easiest thing would be to get a vacuum bag that is large enough for the project. It's also possible to iron veneer on, but that doesn't work well on large surfaces. Another method is to use hot hide glue, but that's an entirely different skill set.

[@laurabennett9865]

Thank you so much. This tutorial was very informative.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You're very welcome!

[@SamSeedy]

Thanks for the video! Very clear. Just to check, do you glue the masking tape pieces under the veneer? Presumably after sanding there is no noticeable bump? Thanks again!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Sam, I'm glad you liked the video. My apologies, I forgot to include the part where I removed the blue tape before gluing it to the substrate.

[@Instantmomentspet]

OK, the was very helpful. Thanks for making the video. Why do you use veneer tape not just the blue tape Thanks

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

That is an excellent question! The older masking tapes were difficult to remove after the veneer had been pressed. Lately, I have heard that some people are using just the "easy removal" masking tape. I plan to test this sometime in the near future. Thanks!

[@daviddubuisson3539]

Very helpful for this beginner.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Dave, I'm glad it was helpful to you!

[@yolanda9666]

my piece is not a perfect sq. is the top of a dresser. i can’t put a dresser in a bag 😂 right! so how do i go about repairing only sections of a piece!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

As I understand it, you want to replace the veneer on just the top of the dresser. Is that right? Replacing veneer on just one side of an existing piece is a bit more difficult, but totally doable. One way might be to simply cut your new veneer to the approximate size or maybe a bit larger than needed. If the dresser is stout enough then you might be able to just weight it down after applying the glue. You would want to use "cauls"; a few sheets of plywood over the veneer with lots of weight applied evenly over the entire area. Be sure to put some wax paper between the veneer and the plywood to ensure that the veneer doesn't accidently get glued to the plywood. Another way would be to iron the veneer on, but I think using weight would be easier.

[@normanirvine6731]

Thanks for your reply regarding where you shop for veneers. I especially enjoyed the joewoodworker link on Veneer Supplies. Very informative. Which leads me to one more question….was the mahogany veneer you used on the video paper backed? It looked very sturdy. As mentioned before your videos are super! Thanks again

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Norman, I hardly ever use paper backed veneers and the ones in this video weren't paper backed either. I recently had the opportunity to meet Joe at veneer supplies and he's a really great guy.

[@dallasrtucker]

Great video! Very informative. There's just one thing I'm not sure I buy into ... veneering BOTH sides. Why? #1 MDF is very stable and it seems that the thin veneer movement could not possibly overcome the thickness and strength of the MDF and #2 the straight-grain veneer and the burl veneer can't possibly counteract each other; with burl you have grain in all directions, i.e. unlike the movement perpendicular to the grain direction for the straight-grain. Right??? I don't get it why you need to veneer BOTH sides.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Randy! You're kind of right about veneering both sides. Burl does go in all directions, but it often has a predominate grain direction which would affect stability of the panel. MDF is very stable and depending on the size and thickness of the MDF, the thickness of the veneer, etc. it might not make a difference. A 12" panel that's 3/4" thick would probably be ok. A 48" panel that's 1/4" thick might be affected. To be on the safe side, best practice is to veneer both sides.

[@davidwimberley4774]

Excellent Tutorial! Thanks!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@danielvutran9201]

Hi Jack, I respect your clarity of instruction! About the blue painter’s tape contacting the substrate, does it cause any unevenness or bumps to show through on the show side when completed? Thank you!

[@danielvutran9201]

Hi again, I found your answer to my question in the comments thread. Thank you!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Daniel! Sorry about the confusion on the tape.

[@chadlowrance3999]

In my opinion veneer was originally used of solid wood,i mean pick an antique to flip and it'll usually solid wood underneath. im doing a commissioned john wanamaker piece now that had wormy chestnut, white oak and poplar substrates.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Absolutely! If I was making a reproduction piece then I would probably use a solid wood substrate. Which Wanamaker piece are you working on?

[@jasonbrupbacher9672]

Thank you very much for this video. Very helpful.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Jason, I'm glad you liked it!

[@kavitareddy4556]

Hello, Thank you so much for making this amazing video, I am an Interior Designer from India and we don't really use these techniques here yet. I had a few questions if you can help me out here. 1. We normally use 1-1.5 mm thick laminates here, so can we use the Vacuum press for Laminates? 2. Veneers are usually 4 mm thick here, so is the Veneer Glue strong enough to hold this thick Veneer? What we do right now is Glue the Veneer(4 mm) as well as Plywood(18 mm) and just take a 36 inch * 4 mm * 2 inch piece of Plywood and Nail it on the Veneer which is glued to the Plywood so that it stays in place and holds together. Would be really helpful as I have just started up my own business and it would be really amazing to educate the labourers here as they have no clue about any of these wonderful techniques that we could do. Save us all the time and hard work that they put in manually. Thank you so much for this Video.. Truly.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Kavita, I'm glad you liked the video! 1. Yes, you can use a vacuum press for the laminates. 2. Yes, the glue is certainly strong enough. Good luck with your new business, Charlie

[@BraxtonWirthlin]

Great info and techniques, Charlie! Great sires so far, I cant wait to see the 4 way book matching. That burl looked incredible!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Braxton!

[@alexbull5838]

Great lesson, Charlie. Probably you will smile because here in Russia we do veneering with an Iron))

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good to know, thanks Alex!

[@tompritch56]

Great information. Hope to attempt that someday. What size is that bag you use? Would you recommend a large one like what you have? Thanks for sharing.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Tom. That bag is 4'x8'. I got it at an estate sale, but it would be pretty tricky to get an 8' panel in there. I think a 3'x4' bag would do for 90% of your projects. I made my first one with vinyl from a fabric store and I bought the hose fitting from Joe Woodworker.

[@MrToms427]

Thanks for the video. Can you recommend a veneer dealer? Thanks

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

My two favorites are Certainly Wood, and Veneer Supplies.

[@MrToms427]

@@JackbenchWoodworking Thank You

[@brianjones7384]

I've been thinking about getting into veneer work. I noticed your bag was still rolled up at the end, does that not cause any issues? Looking at bags to buy, the incremental cost for one large bag vs a smaller bag makes it seem the large is the way to go. Especially if you can just leave the part you don't need rolled up.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Leaving the excess rolled up is not a problem. An oversized bag can be cumbersome, but if you plan to do larger projects, then that's the way to go.

[@josepinos2247]

Is a very nice explanation. thanks a lot. God bless you.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Jose

[@mr.flamtap4634]

Hi Charlie, great video! You make it look so easy! Would you happen to have tips on veneering something cylindrical? Specifically asking about the clamping part of the process. Do you think that using a long, narrow strip of cloth, going multiple times around the cylinder from top to bottom would work? Thanks!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi, thanks for the very nice comment! Wrapping cloth might work, but stretchy material would probably work better. I would probably use elastic bands or maybe stretch wrap that is sold at home centers.

[@mr.flamtap4634]

@@JackbenchWoodworking thanks! I'll try that!

[@ragtie6177]

Looking forward to this series.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks man!

[@tooljunkie555]

Hey Jack good video really informative and just starting to get into veneering believe it or not LOL just did a project last week totally screwed it up wondering where did you say you got your vac from and where did you get the bags from I've been asking everybody and nobody has any answers for me they all tell me Amazon but then I don't know what to look for like what size vacuum pump or what size or type of bags thanks man for any info

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Joe, I have a page on my website that is dedicated to veneering tools: www.jack-bench.com/my-tools/ You can get a most of what you need on Amazon or from Joe Woodworker. I think a 4'x4' bag is enough for most veneering projects. The polyurethane bags are nicer than the vinyl bags, but either will do the job. Pretty much any vacuum pump that is in decent condition should work for veneering. Hope this helps, Charlie

[@PSCThrillSeeker]

Hi, Charlie was hoping you could give me some helpful advice on book matching. BTW love your videos I find them extremely helpful. I'm a novice when it comes to book matching. Here my question I have 2 door panels I'm trying to veneer. the demensions of the panels are 19 3/4in high by 16" wide cut out of 1/4 maple plywood. I bought two packs of 4 way book matched maple burl trouble is the veneer is only 18" in length and 8" wide. I was hope to make a book match in the front and another in the back out of one package (this isn't going to happen anymore). One way I thought of handling this situation is to book match all 4 pieces and place it the center of the door panel but that seems like an awful lot of waste. How would you handle this situation? Obiviously, I'm an 1 3/4 short on the length. If you could give me your ideas it would be most appreciated. Thanks Charlie and keep making those great videos! Best Phil Cusimano

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Phil, Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. Personally, I think the best option is to make a 4-way book match out of the pieces that you have. Of course we hate to lose any of that nice (and sometimes expensive) veneer, but I would rather buy a little more if that's what it takes for me to be satisfied with the final result. You may have already seen it, but I did a video on how to do a 4-way match: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iaqsmKpmqsmmipY Best of luck, and don't hesitate to contact me again. Charlie

[@PSCThrillSeeker]

Hi Charlie, just be honest about your videos. Way ahead of you, I had seen your video on 4-way book matching a few months back. That video is what made me think about veneering the doors to my project, I figured it would add a nice touch to my project. Since I value your opinion that's the way I'm going to go, I'll make a 4-way book match which will get me one paneled door, and in the meantime, I'll just order two more packs of 4-way book match to handle the other door. Wishing me luck! thanks for getting back to me so quickly its much appreciated. Keep on making those great videos Charlie!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Phil, I would love to see your panels when they are done. Can you send me some photos?

[@PSCThrillSeeker]

For sure Charlie, why not I can send you photos. Just finished the rails and stiles out of walnut this morning, also cut the panels. Sketch up is a wonderful thing. Do have another question for you when flatting out the veneer with Veneer Glycerine is it necessary to put one veneer sheet at a time under plattens (sp?) or can you put all 4 Veneer sheets under pressure at the same time? Thanks Charlie.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Phil, after spraying the softener on you can place paper towels between the sheets of veneer and press them all at once between two cauls/platens.

[@ecoonce23]

Great vdo, I picked up a table that sits 12 for free 4ftt x4ft, but the center and a small bit on one side is damaged, what’s the best way to replace the veneer on a large surface?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad that you liked the video! If it were my table I would prep the surface of the table by either removing all of the existing veneer or sanding it smooth. I would probably remove the legs and apply new veneer to the entire surface. I would use a large vacuum bag to press the veneer in place.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Also, I would use a slow setting glue. Probably a resin glue, but possibly slow set epoxy.

[@akivazohar2502]

I was looking for what you thought about contact cement,as this is often a solution for those that haven’t done vennering before

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Contact cement is not recommended for regular raw veneer because it remains a bit pliable even after it dries. However, it is acceptable for paperback veneer. I hope this helps, thanks.

[@spencerdasilva]

The reason you have to sand the edges with a square tube is because you started out with the wrong tool. You should not be using a Stanley knife. That blade creates a small v groove when cutting. When you join 2 v grove cuts you create 2 small valleys that if you didn't sand smooth with your tube, you would get a small thin ditch area between the seams. The tube corrects it, but a flat edged blade like a veneer saw or single edged blade oriented correctly would fix that.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Randy, I usually use a regular Stanley Utility knife. I do prefer to use one of the non-retractable types because the blade is held more securely than it is in the retractable ones. I generally hold the knife at a bit of an angle, but I question whether this makes much of a difference. The reason I say that is because we cut it with a knife we are not actually removing any wood. At most, we may be compressing the fibers near the cut line. I hope this makes sense. :)

[@joserodriguez-uj9po]

great video, i buy this titebond cold pressed venner glue, i wanna know if it is possible to glue this venner to a plastic surface with this ? thanks !

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI, sorry that I didn't see your comment right away. No, pva glue is not good for plastic. It's difficult to glue plastic. Depending on the type and surface texture of the plastic you might be ok with epoxy or maybe polyurethane glue. Definitely test it ahead of time to be sure that it works.

[@jcsrst]

Thank you so much for this very helpful and informative video!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!

[@normjacques6853]

Nicely done! I have an 'antique' (1953) Hammond C2 organ that has a curved strip of mahogany veneer missing (the curve is in one plane only). I obviously can't use a vacuum bag. Any ideas on how best to apply sufficient pressure to the curved surface? Thanks!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

It's hard to say without seeing it, but I might try hide glue. Or, use regular wood glue (pva) and secure it with a light caul and elastic bands.

[@normjacques6853]

I have a picture, but there's no way to display it here...doggone it!! This is a 450-lb. organ console, and where the missing piece is, isn't going to lend itself to rubber bands or clamps! Maybe you can see it via this link: facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151777715159272&set=a.10151777715019272.1073741829.680239271&type=3&theater The missing piece is on the left side of the keyboard, and is pretty obvious...especially when compared to the right side. If you have a minute, please take a quick look and see if any ideas spring to mind. Thank you!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Norm Jacques Glad you added the photo. That's an easy fix. Appy a heavy coat of Tightbond II to the organ and on the piece of veneer that you want to apply. Wait until the glue is almost dry, 10-15 minutes. Then place the veneer onto the organ and heat it with a clothes iron. Set the iron on a medium/high heat. Move the iron along as the veneer/ glue heat up. Follow the iron with a board to press and cool the veneer as you go. The heat from the iron will help the veneer to bend over the curve. Trim the excess after it cools. Of course it's a good idea to practice with scraps before attempting the actual repair.

[@normjacques6853]

Thank you, Charlie! I never would have thought of using an iron! Fortunately, the veneer package I bought has way more than I need, so I will definitely do a couple of test runs. I can simulate the curves on the bandsaw with some 2X stock. I'll let you know how I do with it. Thanks again!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Let me know how it turns out!

[@dallasrtucker]

Question: Can you veneer over a 1/4" round over, or a chanfered edge. What about a routed edge with a profile? Or do you have to terminate the veneer at a 90 degree edge? Then what, use hardwood edge-banding (or hardwood strips on the edges)?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Randy, heating veneer with an iron will allow it to bend. It is possible, with extra effort, to veneer over a 1/4" round over and possibly a chamfered edge, too. There are advanced techniques for veneering over (some) profiles, too.

[@inspectr1949]

Jack you only use the screening on the top in the veneer bag, but not the bottom?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good catch! My primary concern is allowing the air to reach the vacuum hose. But, you are right, it is best to put something on both sides. On a piece like this it is fairly easy to wrap a bath towel around the panel before placing it into the bag. Thanks!

[@stanislasdembinski4160]

hey Jack, awesome video thanks !! I'd like to build a mahogany back gammon game and I'm thinking of veneering only the inside with cherry tree and other woods for the triangles. However I really don't want to veneer the exterior of the box as it seems pointless to veneer mahogany on mahogany... would you on anyone else have any tips to avoid warping when veneering only one side of small panels (40x50cm) of hard wood such as mahogany ? would the joints between different wood veneers on the inside design prevent warping by allowing a bit more play between the veneers ? thanks a lot !!! Stan

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Stan, you definitely have to veneer both sides with man made sheet goods. But, veneering both sides is not always required when using solid wood as a substrate. If the mahogany that you're veneering on to is very thin, then I would suggest making a test piece on a similarly sized piece of scrap wood. If it is closer to 3/4" thick then you should be ok.

[@stanislasdembinski4160]

@@JackbenchWoodworking that's good news but I'll definetly make a test and let you know ! Thanks again 💪💪

[@jasonsparks9509]

If I build a countertop from chipboard I’ll have to do the underside as well ?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I would veneer both sides

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Veneer on the bottom can be inexpensive

[@chadlowrance3999]

exactly,the only place i have where i live is lowes so the selection is limited. i picked out english chestnut.im hoping amber shellac will give it the orangeish tint im looking for. im sure you know how old pieces have a amber color. have you ever found a stain similar to match.on the back 1705 in big numbers and a 2 thats smaller is stamped.have any idea the meaning. thanks

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Chad, you might want to contact Certainly Wood. They are a very large and first class veneer supply house and they might be able to give you some personal help with the match. You might even be able to send them a sample and ask them if they can find a good match for you.

[@sweetybean1]

I have a set of speakers, they have a walnut verneer on them now that is in bad shape. can i glue new verneer to the old after i sand it? Can you do a video verneering verneer?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Tim, You can definitely veneer over old veneer as long as it loose or falling off. All the best, Charlie

[@sweetybean1]

@@JackbenchWoodworking thanks for the reply.... maybe a good video for your channel

[@jenniferhitchin6174]

This sounds a daft question, BUT, after sticking the veneer tape do you remove the blue tape from the glue side? Your video doesn't show that.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Bob, sorry for the confusion. You're right. I did remove the blue tape, but I accidentally omitted that from the final edit.

[@husseinhani]

Can I put several sheets of veneer over each others and glue them to make a bending form that I wasn't able to achieve using normal solid wood ?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Yes, you can definitely laminate veneer together to make curved pieces. Since most wood glue is water based it can cause the veneer to expand when it is applied. It is generally ok to use water based glue, but get it into the clamps quickly to minimize this effect. Also, I recommend using either Better Bond or Unibond One because the veneer will hold its shape better with them than with regular wood glue. Another good option would be polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue) because it is not water based. If you choose polyurethane glue, then be sure to practice on scrap material before using it on your final project. Resin glues are exceptionally good for laminating, but again, they are water based and can cause the veneer to move.

[@husseinhani]

Jack Bench Woodworking thanks you so much for helping, and what’s about using epoxy ? Wouldn’t make it much more harder ? Or it’s stupid idea for sone reasons?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Not stupid at all! Epoxy is a good choice.

[@timguba8887]

Great video, Charlie! Very informative.

[@BrentDaughertyMe]

What about veneering a piece as large as a door? Is it possible to buy longer pieces of veneer?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Absolutely! Veneer is readily available up to 9 or 10 feet long. Check out Certainly Wood. Com

[@sandrafranklin5904]

Thanks for the great video!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Glad you liked it!