Battery Relocation Tips - Its MORE Than Just Moving a Battery | MUST WATCH!

[@intheshoptv]

Some of the products used in this video: Optima Batteries red top group 34/78: www.optimabatteries.com/products/redtop-34-78 Pittsburgh hydraulic battery terminal crimper: www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html Battery cables used: amzn.to/3ULNVl0

[@charliemurphy3023]

Yo Keep at it Boss I got a ‘55 that’s coming alive because of this build, pics to come!

[@intheshoptv]

Right on! That gets me fired up man. Good luck with your build

[@jenniferandwilliam7520]

Looking good! Do you happen to remember where you purchased the terminal blocks you installed up front? Thanks

[@intheshoptv]

Thanks! I do, here ya go: amzn.to/4eKWXq5

[@LTscustomgarage]

Good video. So many people take a car to perfection then drop the ball when it comes to wiring and electronics. There's a lot more to properly relocating the battery than most people think. Good job 🤙

[@intheshoptv]

TOO funny - I was JUST watching your side marker short when I saw this notification😂! Yeah I hear ya, thats a great point.. the worst thing that can happen from not having a 30k glass like paint job is, well, nothing. But we all know the worst thing that can happen when the flow of electrons doesn’t go as planned.

[@LTscustomgarage]

@@intheshoptv that's funny.

[@DWGarageProject]

I like the copper eyelets that are open on both ends. After crimping I can torch the eyelet and flow some solder in for that extra insurance against corrosion. The thick weather proof heat shrink tubes also perfect.

[@intheshoptv]

Once everything is fastened, I take a little paint brush and paint on some di-electric grease on all my electric connections. Dirt cheap and it never corrodes. I used to use actual paint but it would get messed up if you ever have to unbolt something. The grease stays put

[@danielalmendarez1878]

I saw you ran the negative to the fuse block. Did you just bolt the fuse block to the frame? How did you run the other ground to the rear of the frame?

[@intheshoptv]

@@danielalmendarez1878 It’s all covered in the video that followed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poqboXalptSEfJYsi=t_CaU_1QMB3DJura In addition to that, the whole battery/and charging system is in a playlist if you’re interested: Battery Relocation Series kzbin.info/aero/PLS6i13ij_WMmwcpofnsWqjymNiubw9MWG

[@paulnoone8103]

Hi, Nice video. You didnt mention anything about your fuse you fitted. What is it and where from? also what amperage. Thanks

[@intheshoptv]

@@paulnoone8103 GREAT question. I use standard megafuse holders. I didn’t mention the amperage of my fuses in the video because each installation in each vehicle will use a different battery and different length and gauge cable, thus requiring a different fuse rating. I used a 200a but there are resources and calculators available online to help if needed. I think I may have went into a little fuse detail in my alternator video if you’re interested

[@paulnoone8103]

@@intheshoptv Thanks guy, appreciate that you answered.

[@jimkienholz9905]

Sick progress. Keep it up.

[@intheshoptv]

@@jimkienholz9905 thanks bro! Lots more vids since then - check em out if you can!

[@jimkienholz9905]

@@intheshoptvwill do! I love your attention to detail. I don’t have a hot rod but I am researching battery relocation and you have some great idea that others don’t.

[@intheshoptv]

@@jimkienholz9905 thats awesome to hear man! The video after this one on grounding has some really good stuff that will be useful for your project. Good luck! Let me know if I can help

[@4eyefoxbodyfanclub625]

Liked the video. I hate seeing my battery on the firewall and I'm planning on relocating it behind the bench seat with a smaller battery like one for a foxbody Mustang. It is small, rectangular, compact and has enough power to turn over a sbc.

[@intheshoptv]

Thanks! Same, I like a clean firewall too. You probably know this but just in case… If you mount your battery in the interior, it needs to be an AGM battery (like the Optima for example), and not a flooded battery as they pose a safety risk. Good luck and thanks so much for watching!

[@NightWalkerasd]

Lol the bug at 5:15 took me by surprise, nice info btw!

[@intheshoptv]

Thank you! There’s a bug, you say??

[@MScott-y4g]

Given it a really custom look. Looking good!!!!!

[@intheshoptv]

Thanks so much. Im trying!

[@Hawxx9194]

Awesome build! What size tech flex did you use for the battery cable?

[@intheshoptv]

Thank you! Its 1/2 loom and the color is called uptown red. It covered the smaller alternator charging wire nicely too, if you’re interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gF61aWaXj5ign7ssi=BLJMgc9IaSd_TdPO

[@Hawxx9194]

@@intheshoptv one last thing....where do I find it?

[@intheshoptv]

If you want that color exactly: www.cabletiesandmore.com/flexo-pet-braided-sleeving?pid=5707 If you dont care about color and want it faster and cheaper: amzn.to/3y41Jy0

[@truvuehomeinspections2397]

Clean work as always man!

[@intheshoptv]

Thanks!

[@HiddenCreekHomestead]

Looking good. Some beefy cables ya got there!

[@intheshoptv]

I like em beefy lol. Gotta up-size em on long runs.

[@phildoleebowitz5335]

Did you test any of your chassis grounds? Common mistake is assuming a chassis is a solid ground point when in fact in a lot of cases it is not. Chassis for the most part are spot welded covered in paint etc. i found this out the hard way. My battery relocation on my 64 impala is in the trunk with a 2/0 ofc with tinned lugs from battery neg to engine block itself then spider out from there. Test all points for voltage drops with a neg bus bar then ground everything to that because you know its a good ground. If you never test these spots you are just assuming its a good ground.

[@intheshoptv]

Consider subscribing! That video came right after this one. Check it out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poqboXalptSEfJYsi=a9Q_p1lvpOLmuDWV

[@ASEWorldClassTech]

I would of made a switch location especially if its under the bed

[@intheshoptv]

Do you mean a battery switch?

[@ASEWorldClassTech]

@@intheshoptv A manual cut off switch that's accessible from the outside of the vehicle.

[@intheshoptv]

@@ASEWorldClassTech The bed will have a hinged bed floor, same as an engine bay has a hood. Also, its far from done, it will have charging posts behind the tailgate and perhaps even a disconnect switch - though Im leaning towards a remote battery switch. (A manual switch is only required if you’re racing the vehicle- which I wont be)

[@fueledgaragetv1212]

You lost me at “set screw” battery terminals.

[@intheshoptv]

I did? Oh its simple, you tom the cables, insert in terminal and clamp down.