BC8 MAMMOTH Build Part 2 Cross RC

[@antrc]

Please check out the review video now she is up and running. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2izaXp_jM5ge8k

[@rccrawlersmid-wales645]

It already looks monumental... I'm still not convinced you won't put the last bit on and discover you've built a working nuclear submarine. Can't wait to see the rolling chassis! Great stuff. 👍😀

[@antrc]

He he. Thanks. She is quite a monster. Like nothing I have built before. It is certainly keeping me on my toes. Andrew is harassing me daily to get it rolling lol despite not having started his CA30 yet. Tut tut.

[@rccrawlersmid-wales645]

AnT R/C Haha, perhaps it’s a bit too complicated for him? 😁🤣🤣🤣

[@antrc]

@@rccrawlersmid-wales645 like it. He is just over come with jealousy because of the mammoth. He is in shock.

[@antrc]

(ignoring childish jibes) A

[@rccrawlersmid-wales645]

AnT R/C Really? I must not be trying hard enough. 😒

[@Ktownscale]

Loving the build mate... I took mine out on the weekend for it’s first run... I wish I could post some pictures here... it’s unbelievable how well this thing is

[@antrc]

Thank you. Ooooh awesome. Sounds like you are please. Part 3 will be out next wed. I am not far off a rolling chassis now which is exciting. What colour have you chosen?

[@Ktownscale]

AnT R/C a very weathered green ... looking forward to part 3

[@andreasdirlich8135]

Super explained, as always great videos! I'm already waiting for the first exit

[@antrc]

Thank you my friend.

[@seansrcconstruction]

This was awesome man nice and informative. Really enjoying this build. A has to paint that thing it deserves to be painted by an artist because you know T if you paint it there’s gonna be something on it that bugs the shit out off A and will drive him crazy every time you go out lol

[@antrc]

Yup. He will end up painting it at some point. I am sure if it. Good point. Maybe I do it badly on purpose lol

[@seansrcconstruction]

AnT R/C lol

[@antrc]

#nomeansno

[@seansrcconstruction]

AnT R/C 😂😂😂😂

[@chiccorocker]

Wow it's already looking impressive. Nice stuff. A tip for the stripped screws: use very high quality spring steel tools. Those that come with an handle, not the L shaped one. And check it's not wore out and that screw head is free of debris preventing the driver head to go fully in. Of course if the screw is bad quality, that's not much you can do, but I bet this kit has good quality screws and wont strip easily. I've had quite good luck with Traxxas and RC4WD screws, if you are unsure you can always swap them out for a good brand.

[@soloshooter5806]

grub screw tip,no threadlock...use heatshrink tube. I want to build on of theese so badly...mabye xmas time i can get started. cool build

[@cliffcampbell8827]

You can improve your soldering by first tinning the tip of your soldering iron (wait until the iron is up to temp, apply a touch of solder to it, then give the tip of the iron a couple quick drags across a damp sponge). Next is to press (gently) the hot tip of the soldering iron to the point you are going to solder and keeping it there until the point heats up (usually 3 or 4 seconds). Keeping the tip pressed to the point, apply a little bit of solder to the point (not the tip of the iron) if the point is up to temperature, the molten solder should run to the heated point. If the point isn't hot enough then you'll end up with little beads of solder (you don't want that). If the point is hot enough then you should see a tiny tapered cone shape where the top is the point of the cone and the bottom is the widest part of the cone (what you do want). Before proceeding to the next soldering point, clean the iron tip with another quick few drags across that damp sponge. You shouldn't have to re-tin the tip every single point to be soldered (just once every few points and you'll be golden). You can take a semester at a local university dedicated to soldering but for hobby level, taking that class is a bit of overkill. With a few minutes of practice I'm sure your technique and your attachments will improve greatly. One more thing, if you really want to put in the extra effort, look into getting some Flux for your solder (read the directions on proper use of solder Flux).

[@JeepSheep]

Hey again, what transmitter and receiver combo did you end up using and how many channels? Thanks!

[@antrc]

Hi mate, this is on a Spektrum DX5 and regular ol' Spektrum rx I believe. Tel will be along to correct me if I'm wrong.

[@tekayvoong5545]

Very nice video and very informative. Do you know what the motor’s shaft diameter is?

[@antrc]

I am afraid I don't know. I know who will know though. Go to www.greensmodels.co.uk and fire the question to them Simon who runs the store always knows everything. Great chap.

[@kurdish_rc]

so nice video

[@ThuatBui]

Thanks for sharing. I'm working on my BC8 too. I got problem with the 2 servos. They are shaking when I increase the throttle (regardless if I turning left/right or not). Did you experience the same problem?

[@antrc]

Hey man, let me direct Tel at this for you. A

[@ThuatBui]

AnT R/C I just found the reason. It because I used 2 brushless servos for steering. They cannot work together with brushed motor from Cross. Simply replace them and it works again.

[@antrc]

@@ThuatBui hey man very pleased for you!

[@antrc]

Hi there, sorry for the late reply. Glad you have got it sorted. I haven't actually heard of that issue before. Well done for resolving it 👍

[@ThuatBui]

@@antrc no problem, man! Enjoy your BC8 and be safe!

[@new.handle]

Am I crazy or does CrossRC use the same gearbox on BC, MC, HC and GC chassis? How does it even work? I mean, for example MC8 is almost 2x heavier that MC4 and with same output torque, it would be logical to conclude it would perform better. I have HC4 (shorter and lighter then HC6) and I can feel it has more torque than normal RC truck/crawler. It has weight of about 5kg, and as I can see, BC8 is about 14kg, so it should be 3x more powerful. Is this the case with MC8 and MC6?

[@antrc]

We can certainly say that the MCs and BC share the same box, along with the HC and indeed Gaz as our friend proved. There is some difference in motors used but yes they're all jolly strong. So likelyhood of HC4 breaking it, is remote unless being used as a basher say. They have slop in them, that's the downside but they are as hard as nails.

[@new.handle]

@@antrc I saw somewhere (some forum) some guys noted that since HC4 has leaf spring system, too much torque can twist axle and leaf springs. To counter this they do mods with parts from HC6 to get tree point suspension arms. Problem is that CrossRC had provided only one of leaf per set made from metal and other (four) from plastic. Regarding motor, I put 21T with HW 1080 ESC and it goes like a beast; slow but sure. ;) What I hate is free movment of whole truck when it rolls, since there is delay when motor stops and when this is transferred to the wheels. Result is when you "stop" truck goes for about 2-3cm fwd.

[@antrc]

Yes that's slop in the gearbox. It isn't hard to see where, if you dismantle it. Doing something about it tho, has escaped us. So we live with it. These trucks, in real life, aren't BMWs so we say it is realistic 😂

[@new.handle]

@@antrc That is true ;). Also, other thing I've noticed on 8x8s is that front second axle should by design have slightly less turn as per geometry of the turn. By 8x8 there are tree circles of rotation: back axles (both 3rd and 4th)-smallest circle, front 2nd-mid circle and front 1st- biggest circle. I had this issue with HG P801(HEMTT); when both front axles turn on same angle, 2nd axle's wheels tires get twisted due to this geometry. Also what helps is unlocked diffs on HEMTT.

[@antrc]

@@new.handle totally. I set my MC8 up and watched for that. Which it did by design - the steering set up makes the magic happen.

[@rccreations3489]

You can also create a mix on your radio and avoid using extra boards.

[@mikeal5061]

Hi, anyone know what module the pinion gear is? M1? 48DP? Something different?

[@antrc]

Hi Mike, apologies no I don't know. Have you got a local Cross Rc supplier that you could contact?.

[@BasBoyRC]

The electrics are a nightmare, when I built Dan's one there was no proper diagram and would not do it. He got a car mechanic friend to do it and blew the receiver. The suspension is torsion bar, and when you saw Dan's running last year in the videos they was set to standard. But I did laugh when you said no arrow to get the suspension the right way up, the holes are closer on the top.

[@antrc]

Yes. I have played with the electrics and got them working so far. That's not to say I wont mess it up come installation lol. Yup the holes are closer together, I just thought that a little arrow on both sets wouldnt hurt. I am very much enjoying the build so far.

[@simoncycling6685]

Let the locktight dry on thread first ...if you use it wet your just gluing it !!! And dont use to much !!

[@antrc]

I have done that very thing. Still find it increases the chances of it stripping a head when getting bolts out. I tend to check all main bolts before ever run and very rarely do any need tightening. If they do it's a tiny nip.

[@thembamalumbete5206]

Where can i get this? I'm in South Africa

[@antrc]

Don't really know my friend. Maybe www.cross-rc.us or www.greenmodels.co.uk could post to SA?

[@Apasash]

😉👍💯