Be Careful Reloading These Brands of Range Brass!!

[@MichaelJohnson-fe8tm]

WCC is Winchester military 9mm brass. 04 was produced in 2004. The "NATO" designation is the + inside the O. NATO 9mm is loaded to +P pressure. I have some WCC NATO brass from the late 80's and a lot from the early 90's when we were doing 1st Gulf. An outstanding cartridge case, with A CRIMPED PRIMER. The primer crimp must be removed and by hand with a "Military Crimp Removal Tool" and then it helps to "Chamfer" the primer pocket. I do both by hand. Your primer "squished" because you tried to stuff it into a hole that was too small for it because you did not remove the military crimp that held the primer in by pushing some of the metal of the cartridge base over the primer. If you hand prime, as I always do, you would not have been able to prime that case. The extra leverage of your press let you fuck up. I bought 2,000 rounds of brass and 1,000 was Winchester commercial. The other 1,000 was WCC and I felt blessed. MAXX Tech I have and mine does not have the shoulder inside the case.

[@gunztommiegunz]

Correct I always have problems reloading them. You have to remove that crimp before you press in a new primer just the same as 556 NATO have to remove the crimp

[@TinkeringNoob]

@@gunztommiegunz bingo its the crimp

[@josecanisales3491]

I have loaded 100s of winchester cartridge corp nato 9mm. You have to remove the crimp in the case before priming. But is very good brass.

[@donaldwilliams2734]

Same here

[@sabretom7594]

WCC 04 , the small circled cross is the NATO mark, the cartridge was made to NATO standard, which includes a primer pocket crimp. The primer pocket can be cut or swaged, there are tools available for both.

[@kennethgillette6193]

Wcc Winchester cartridge company with the year on it is a military round it has a crimped primer.

[@charlestravis9798]

The primer in that case is cocked or crooked

[@Nick.wally2]

WCC is Western cartridge company WRA is winchester repeating arms

[@loquat44-40]

@@charlestravis9798 Exactly because as Kenneth Gillette stated it is crimped. The crimping may be intended for use in submachine guns. The crimp needs to be removed prior to repriming.

[@truthfulconch7773]

Your right, crimped primer for military. Reload with caution.

[@loquat44-40]

I have since done some reading on the glock smile and that also needs to be removed

[@Tony-om5kr]

I use a Dillon Super Swage 600 tool to decrimp WCC primer pockets. It's a pain but the spent WCC cases were cheap at the time. The tool can also be used for swaging primer pockets of spent 5.56x45 and 7.62x51 mil spec brass.

[@zsempai9]

The WCC case seems to be like military brass that gets crimped. I used to use the pocket reamers with a lot of effort on my FC and other cases in .223 of 5.56 because of the same primer loading issue. Now I use the RCBS-2 primer pocket swage tool in my press and it doesn't remove material but reshaped the primer pocket. I also have a primer pocket measuring tool, small on one side, large on the other, to gauge my primer pockets to see if too small or too large. FWIW

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I used a reamer on a power drill that actually removed a little material, and on those cases it almost not worth it and now I just toss them. It's not always a given that the primer gets crushed, it's just usually the case that I find when they do get stuck. Also, Winchester brass "Win" and "9mm Luger" stamped on the case head I also have trouble with primers seating. Actually, I'd say that the Winchester cases are worse than the WCC, etc. cases--so keep an eye out for those. I don't have a swager arm or attachment on my press since it's only an XL750 and not the new 1100 or 1050 that has a primer pocket swager station (which would be nice, but I do prefer priming on the forward stroke and not the downstroke--it gives me a different feel so I know right away when I have a problem). Thanks for watching and your comments!

[@MichaelJohnson-fe8tm]

@@docgsreloading7985 You can sit and do something else while running a military primer crimp tool manually on each cartridge case. Drop the finished case into a new bucket. All my reloading is 1,000 at a time by transferring from one Folger's plastic coffee container to the next.

[@greybone777]

Need to buy unbreakable decapping pins,but they can still be bent. I try to tighten the pin so it will slip if the primer won't come out. Then you need to swage or ream the pocket out. This applies to 556, and virtually all military ammo. Went through 4 pins decapping a thousand rounds of LC 556 .45acp seems to come out a little easier.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Remember people, if you leave stupid and insensitive comments I’ll not only delete them immediately, but then ban you from ever leaving comments on my channel again. As with all my videos, I put them out there for informational purposes, so if any of my videos are already common knowledge to you, then great, you’re super smart and don’t need to share in my experiences-so just leave my channel without making stupid comments! To everyone else who leaves constructive comments, I thank you for sharing and as I learn, you do as well.

[@covemallard]

The “wcc” case is mil brass and was crimped. The primer shown was forced in without removing the crimp, that caused deforming it. Case preparation is required!

[@lwilson1234]

WCC is Winchester as has been said. Most likely, military contract which means a crimped primer pocket spec. Sorting brass will rectify "accidentally" running them through the machine. My 1050 automatically removes(swages) the pockets to prevent issues. Most aren't military so unless you run across a huge deposit(like from a military base auction) you rarely run across them.

[@footnotedrummer]

I have thousands of rounds of WCC (Western Cartridge Company) brass. They're more labor intensive to reload, because you need to remove the military crimp that they apply during manufacturing. This is military grade brass and will last a good long time. However... removing the crimp on them takes a little extra time. RCBS makes a little $15 tool that you can put in your hand drill or drill press, and simply slam the case down until brass stops coming off. Super easy. In fact... after you've done this... primers go into the case so smoothly. The thing that likely happened with you even after reaming the pocket out, was likely leftover primer ring that wasn't removed during depriming. This happens sometimes, but I like to run my flat blade tool into the pocket to remove primer gunk anyway. If the flat blade doesn't fit in the pocket after running the RCBS decrimping tool... throw it out. Boom. No risk in primer detonation. Why do they put a crimp on military ammo you may ask... well... because the military cycles ammo at a high rate of speed, and there can be primer failures. If a primer falls out during high cycle speeds... you can really mess up your gun and your day.

[@moushunter]

The + on the case is a NATO marking. The primers are crimped in the pocket so they don't fall out. I save them until I have a bucket full and then decap and cut the crimp out. (I keep them as once fired as my retirement brass) It is good brass. I have 3 6 gallon pails full. WCC, WMA, CBC, PPU, S&B and more have crimped primers. Some carry ammo does as well. I've experience a hard time decapping a lot of Winchester cases. They don't appear crimped but they may have been sealed with something. I have issues with them in 9 and 45.

[@Michael-rg7mx]

I run all 9mm and .223 through a step, after sizing. I use a RCBS primer pocket swaging tool. I run it separately on my single stage, then tumble the brass till shiny.

[@PlayingWithFireOutdoors]

I just finished prepping a bunch of WIN 9MM nickel plated, that's a process as their crimped. It's police issue, its like that WCC military stuff. But they're free, and in great condition for reloading now. I have run across those bi-metal Fed cases, same issue.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching and you comment!

[@kevins1114]

That two-piece case has another defect to be aware of - often, the main body of the case will stick in the sizer die, thus the head being pulled off. It's a royal pain to get them back out.

[@jessieyoung3759]

The third round is a 9x19 NATO cartridge ,wcc is western cartridge company , wma is Winchester, you need to remove the primer crimp via a swage or reamer on those and your primers will seat correctly and not detonate . Take care.

[@benniblanco8115]

The WMA, WCC brass is what the military was using. Those primers were crimped, which would cause the misaligned primer in your case. A buddy of mine warned me about that and I bought the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Tool-2, (PN: 9481).

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks, yeah, that's a tool I'm going to get. Thanks for your comments!

[@Pappy7064]

That second one is metallic. You must use a special die to reuse them. One of the issues is they begin to separate where the two different metals are used at the junction. I used to use those for shooting 9 Major loads in my Open gun because they do handle higher pressures and can be reloaded a lot of times. Picking them up with a magnet on a stick was great though.

[@tonypierantozzi5534]

Federal primers are the softest on the market and should only be used in non military cases because of the tighter primer pockets. CCI seem to be the hardest, but are the hardest to fully seat. Winchester is a good middle ground being soft enough to form into the pocket but hard enough to keep rounded edges and fully seat in mil/nato 9mm cases and other mil/nato brass. CCI makes the mil spec primers but I personally never found the need to use them. There is a nickel plated winchester brass out there that is nearly impossible, non crimped, but extremely tight primer pocket. You can swage the pocket but is still tight. Just my experience and opinion, been loading for 42 yrs., hope that helps! Happy shooting!

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thank you for adding your expertise to the discussion. I would consider myself an expert reloader for single stage precision rifle, but this is only my second year doing progressive reloading for handgun and it is very different than single stage, so I learn something new every day. This is why I make and post these videos so we can all gain in knowledge. Thanks again for your contribution!

[@mitchmaile5979]

The last one is a Winchester NATO round you can buy locally, primers are hard to seat so I quit useing them. nato rounds have a + on the case rim

[@shaverlocal]

I just came across these WMA cases and you are right. Federal has soft primers to start with and these are easily crushed.

[@le3045acp]

the harder primers are cci small pistol they are harder to help with slam fires in military weapons

[@dbelex]

Can't believe you actually have a channel and informing people.

[@herknorth8691]

Why did that first case have that step in it? I've never heard of such a thing. Can you even resize it?

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching and your question! Well, I've heard that it's from a 9mm shotshell type of projectile. Yes, it did resize, but the bullet I used (147gr. RNFP from Blue Bullets) would not seat in it. If I was using a lighter bullet, it may have fit.

[@herknorth8691]

@@docgsreloading7985 Very interesting, thanks for the reply!

[@johntalbot119]

That first brass had a 32auto stuck inside! Range brass experience. Look down into case and you’ll see 2 primers, one above the other. Oops. I am wrong. Ignore. Please forgive.

[@lanedexter6303]

Military cases have crimped primers, and they may be thicker. So ream pockets or use primer pocket swager, then load down a bit to allow for reduced volume. BTW that circled + symbol means it met NATO spec.

[@conniechapin9278]

Watch out for 9mm Norma brass. The flash hole is under size and the decapper will get stuck, causing all kinds of misery.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching! YES, the Norma brass will pull out the decapping pin in the Redding dies and I got so sick and tired of that happening that I contacted Redding. I complained about it to Redding, and they didn't have a fix that worked. What I did, was engineer a fix on my own. I used a thread coupler I purchased online from an industrial company and converted the threads on the Redding decapping stem to the Dillon decapping threads, then I just use the Dillon decapping pins and their screw on cap that holds the pin in place. The way the Dillon decapping system is designed, it can't pull out ever and won't break because the pins are hardened steel and much bigger in diameter. I did have to grind off the fork that held the Redding pin in place just flush with the threads. Now when a Norma brass 9mm case comes into my press, it just slams through that small flash hole and makes it bigger, so reloading it again makes it easier, and the primer gets driven out easily even the first time. I was thinking about doing a video on what I did to solve the problem, I just don't think it would get a lot of views!

[@lucasoldaker2158]

Any case the has that little round mark on the head stamp is a nato round made for the military

[@rustybayonetcom]

Cicle with cross

[@Crustymarine]

That 3rd case WCC is NATO. I believe the circle with the cross head stamp indicates NATO brass, or so I have been told.

[@ecleveland1]

The WCC 9mm case is a Winchester NATO case and it has crimped primers. You have to remove the old crimp before you reload. Some people use a swage and others a primer pocket reamer. The military cases the NATO cross on the base of the brass case. We are starting to see a trend where all brass reloadable cases are being phased out by more and more ammo manufacturers. The 9mm uses a taper crimp on the bullet and it is hard to wear them out. I load 9mm in lots of 500 or 1000 and keep lots segregated so I can keep up with how many times I've loaded them. I don't shoot in competition so I'm not just going through thousands of rounds a month or even a year so my brass lasts a very long time. I know I've got some that have been loaded 15 times and are still fine.

[@myanaloglife9450]

Doc can you make some recommendation to 9mm brass, bullet, powers I’m new to reloading sticking to new brass as I get experience using mostly 115 some 124 I’ve been using starline brass and whatever bullet I can find at a reasonable price round nose fmj.I’m just plinking my main consideration has been safety then cost this is an experience project, once I’m more comfortable I’ll look into once fired range ammo, your examples are why I’ve been using new brass so far.fyi I have been picking up my own brass and collecting as I get my cleaning resizing de priming act together then I’ll recycling my own stuff to make it worth while any ideas out would be welcome As I will bounce any suggestions off my reloading Manuel’s to make sure my donuts are donuts and not bombs. Thank you Ivan

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching and your nice comments and questions! That’s a good idea to keep your own brass. As you can see, you have to be careful about other stuff you pick up. So, I shoot an Atlas Hyperion in 9mm as well as my Sig Sauer P320 X5 Legion in local competitions that are not USPSA (no Major or Minor Power Factor to deal with) and here is what I use for those guns: 1) Blue Bullets 147gr. (Their Round Nose or Flat Point work equally as well). 2) Vihtavuori N320 powder at 3.0 grains. 3) Used brass as we talked about. 4) Federal primers (DO NOT USE CCI PRIMERS IN A STRIKER FIRED GUN-THEY DO NOT WORK CONSISTENTLY) A buddy of mine that has been progressively reloading longer than I’ve been alive told me about the CCI primers only working in hammer-fired guns, and he’s right. I did several hundred CCI’s and at least 3 per hundred didn’t fire and required a second or third strike to go off. Plus, Federal primers have a more malleable cup, so they go into the case easier when reloading. Now, I do use a more expensive powder-Vihtavuori, but it burns more consistently and has almost no soot. If you don’t want to spend the extra money, than TiteGroup would be a good alternative; although I don’t know what the conversion of grains would be over to that powder. For me, the extra is money well spent since I don’t have to clean my guns as often, and when I do, it’s an easy cleaning. Starting out, I tested 5 different bullet weights, from 10 different manufacturers and 5 different powders at differing weights (I don’t do any of this stuff half-way!) and the Vihtavuori powder had by far the tightest groups (at 20 yards fired from a rest) and most consistent chronograph data. Now that load above also does meet the USPSA Minor Power Factor requirement, so it’s a load that can be used in USPSA competitions. I compete in the Limited Division in USPSA, so I shoot 40 cal for that in an Atlas Nemesis so I can be in the Major Power Factor which is a huge advantage over Minor PF. I hope that is helpful! Let me know of any other questions and I’ll be glad to answer as best I can!

[@myanaloglife9450]

,thank you never even gave hammer vs Striker a thought thank you. Started picking up my own brass to make it easier to police brass brands,it mostly as a hedge against shady brass since all mine is once fired since i purchased new. I gonna try powders you suggested. cleaning burning is big, since unburnt powder is just wrong in todays low availability scene, gonna save my Cci for my CZ, you having any luck buying primer. Crazy how many fake websites out their found one site yesterday only place the had any in “stock “ but of course was vemo/zelle only clicked off and did a virus scan just to be sure appreciate the response and info, ps love you choices legion, Atlas,need I say more wow, not today but one day I’ll be able to ask what … on yours I got … on mine. Next mission find powder and primers but that’s all of us. Thank you, Ivan

[@docgsreloading7985]

@@myanaloglife9450 I saw the whole pandemic coming (a good thing about having a medical education) so I ordered 50k during the 12 months prior to everything going out of stock. I’m on a bunch of wait lists, but they’re still not in stock and unfortunately, when they do come back in stock they’re charging 8-9 cents a piece instead of the 3 cents I paid. 22LR ammo is 3X more expensive per round than it was pre-pandemic. I’d think as long as the pandemic stuff continues to taper off, they should be near back to the regular price and availability by the end of this year or beginning of next year.

[@neilhood3624]

After reeming military cases with crimped primers like the WCC cases, it leaves an abrupt ridge on the lip of the primer pocket. Primers tend to catch on this ridge and deform, unless you use a deburring tool to remove this ridge and chamfer the lip of the primer pocket slightly. Once this is done, primers will seat easily. I first started doing this as a kid helping my dad reload military 30-06 cases over 60 years ago and have done this to thousands of military cases in various calibers in the years since. I think my old man probably knew what he was talking about, as he worked as a machinist for Remington Arms during WWII maintaining the equipment they used to make ammo for Uncle Sam.

[@scottrussell6717]

Must be a newbie... when resizing the primer pocket is not touched..... that 3rd case is not a pocket problem it's a primer alignment problem... I have been reloading for 25 years

[@delmont223]

As others have pointed out the Winchester piece of brass is a military version of the 9mm luger round. You may already know this but the stamped small circle with a cross in the middle is a symbol for NATO. It is put on all NATO small arms ammo. The other piece of brass you showed with the smaller powder capacity and little interior ridge, is a new one to me.

[@donball5918]

Your first 9mm case could be a result of the well-known Glock "bulge" which is always a pain to reloaders (particularly with 40 S&W brass). With the second case (bearing the NATO symbol -- the cross in a circle), is it possible that the primer pocket was inadequately swaged (I, too, have dealt with that problem)? I have never encountered a case with the interior "ridge" or "rib" you discussed. Goes to show that one learns something new every day!!! Thank you kindly for sharing your observations.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks Don! I agree that almost every time I go to the range, reload, or attend an event, I learn something. I'm happy to share what I learn so it can hopefully help someone else.

[@308alaska]

I think the first case is probably for the plastic shot shell--these are used to prevent setback for the plastic shot shell containing the birdshot..

[@kenirvin8877]

Not 100% sure on this but I believe the WCC casings are from Western Cartridge Company out of Illinois.

[@georgeholt8929]

I guess your not familiar with the NATO Case Mark it's the circle with the cross in the center. The WCC represents Winchester Cartridge Company Logo, the two digits represents year of manufacture. Of course the primer was smashed into the deprimed case without the reaming of the crimp from the original seated primer. US made military cartridge brass cases do not show the caliber of the case on the case, that printed information would be on the box material.

[@308alaska]

I think the first case is probably for the plastic shot shell--these are used to prevent setback for the plastic shot shell containing the birdshot... .

[@dufus2273]

makes sense

[@fryingpanhead8809]

Makes sense, since you can't crimp a 9mm.

[@Angrytoddler]

That silver one is a shell shock round it has its own die from S3

[@cameroniveson2361]

Ok your two peace brass has a special die you can go to shell shock case to buy one with the right die you can reload them 80 times no stretching after 80 time I've found they case harden so they are great cases so stop throwing them away they are worth a bit of money there original use was intended to be sold to military and gun ranges so the deal is you but tens of thousands of them and use a magnet to pick them up send them back to manufacturers and get your new rounds reloaded for a fraction of the cost just thought I'd throw that out there of fyi they are much lighter air craft aluminum bottom high tincil strength nickly alloy top without the right die they will come apart and you will have a accident if you managed to get it reloaded and fired the die cost 100 bucks

[@fajile5109]

They fall apart from a bullet puller hammer. So... i really wonder about reloading... whats stoping the rim from being ripped off leaving me with a shell wall stuck in the chamber.

[@cameroniveson2361]

@@fajile5109 they actualy shot fine I've shot thousands of them no real problems like comeing apart at discharge they are kind of baffling they are tough but at same time they can be taken apart easily enough I'd just call and speek with some one at shell shock or really research some reviews

[@curtwuollet2912]

I've seen the Maxxtech with step. I just put those aside and may mess with them later. The others are military and need the crimp removed. I don't throw anything under the current conditions.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching! Yes, I agree--I don't throw away a single case unless it's damaged to the point where it either wouldn't chamber or extract or would be dangerous (split case, etc.).

[@curtwuollet2912]

@@docgsreloading7985 yeah, when the batf sends a report out that 3 containers, several million rounds, of 9mm disappeared, strange things are happening.

[@docgsreloading7985]

@@curtwuollet2912 Agreed. That's why I pick up whatever I can whenever I can--and sort it out later.

[@LIV2500]

WCC is NATO brass. The primer pocket is crimped. You'll have to ream/swage more than you did.

[@randlerichardson5826]

I use my chamfering tool the pointed end to get the primer pocket crimp out

[@bagrambill]

Same here, easy solution that makes everything better... sadly it is another step. Lucky for me all the time is like pure therapy.

[@orbitingeyes2540]

WMAs definitely have a mil crimp. I have successfully de-crimpped and used them.

[@shaverlocal]

The silver cases you could not reload are S3 and require different dies. Look into NAS cases from Shell Shock Technologies. I have loaded 6000 rounds in the last 3-4 months and have run across these cases on a few occasions. It feels like you are tearing the Dillon press in half by running those things through a progressive. However, with the next shortage being brass I am taking a close look at buying 10,000 of these at a very reasonable price. They claim you can recycle their cartridges up yo 35 times. Not only that but they are useless to anybody else picking through your pick-up brass.

[@Pappy7064]

The cases will start to separate at the place they are joined together. It may be hard to notice at first so be careful. I used to use these but stopped because of that issue. One good thing about them is you could pick them up with a magnet on a stick.

[@PewPewRealEstate]

Thanks for the heads up on that.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching! I'm glad the info helped. As you can see from the comments below, I'm not the most informed/savvy progressive reloader! I'm glad others had expanded in more detail--I learned a lot from their feedback.

[@PewPewRealEstate]

@@docgsreloading7985 that's awesome. I just started reloading in October and maybe have only loaded 700 rounds so far.

[@docgsreloading7985]

@@PewPewRealEstate That's great! I'll tell you, even with all the extras I purchased for my press, I've already paid it off in less than 2 years! Plus, during the ammo shortage I had no problems because I had stockpiled 20K of primers and Blue Bullets, about 15lbs. of powder, and all my brass is range brass that I pick up (about 50K of 9mm alone). So I was able to make all the ammo I needed for competitions and literally saved about 10 cents per round over factory ammo.

[@rbm6184]

Use standard factory brass. If the case is non standard then don't use it. The MaxxTech inside case shelf and two piece nickel brass shown are non standard. If primers act as if they won't seat then discard the brass. Same for bullet seating. Don't force it. Discard. Or get a primer pocket swage tool for such cases like crimped or Berdan (double primer holes) primed cases. Best to stick with box primer brass cases. As always check your cases for fatigue cracks and splits or over pressure signs and discard these. Thanks for sharing.

[@jesseboutdoors]

Good tips and just subbed 👍🏻

[@chrisma1976]

The casings with to circle/cross target on them are NATO rounds that have been crimped. I toss those every time.

[@anthonychrismartin7888]

Wow! You got a few primers! Nice 👍

[@michaeledlin9995]

Aguila flash holes are not centered.

[@dufus2273]

shouldn't make a difference. still ignites

[@wemcal]

Great video and great information

[@markt5450]

Thanks for the heads up!

[@capricorn2816]

2 piece case are Shellshock cases. Very cool and uses Special Dies to size and flare.

[@randlerichardson5826]

I’ve found a few of them with the ring before

[@josephhammett128]

Special die needed for those new style bi part brass cases.

[@henny4360]

I broke a lot of depriming pins on those WCC

[@juantovar4861]

Thanks for the info

[@DummyRound]

Nice video! I set aside all the nato 9mm I pick up to sell it separately and to not taint my own stock with that silly stuff. I've also been finding lots the 2 piece nickle brass with the strengthened case heads and keeping it aside. Thanks for letting me know not to try sizing it, I'll have to just sell those off too.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Glad I could help. I just wanted to share what I had been finding were a problem when I picked up range brass--which I have over 50,000 cases of, and use for practice and local club (non-USPSA matches). For USPSA events with classifiers, I use new brass.

[@MichaelJohnson-fe8tm]

WCC brass is excellent but the primer pocket is crimped per NATO contract requirements and you have to cut it off or swage it back. I prefer reaming (cutting it away) by hand.

[@DummyRound]

@@MichaelJohnson-fe8tm I haven't found many with cracks or defects before, I just don't want to have to swage or ream all of the 9mm I find. I already have enough 223 to prep!

[@GunGuy258]

WCC doesn't want to take primers. It's not worth the time for me either.

[@jonathanl2748]

Do you still recommend range pickups? Or are there too many nasty surprises? Also, Very cool primer rod! You could make those and folks would buy them.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Oh for sure! I have 4 full to the top 5 gallon pickle buckets (almost 30,000 cases of 9mm) of which pretty much all of them are usable and free! For the most part the brands I find are Winchester, PMC, Blazer, Aguila, Starline, and Xtreme to name a few--all of very high quality and can be reloaded 20+ times. I have to sort all my brass manually so when I get back home from the range I put on my magnifier glasses and check that each piece is 9mm Luger (I do get a lot of 40 cal as well) because 380 ACP and will look identical to 9mm except it's a shorter case that won't work in the press when you go to seat the bullet. It takes a couple hours but I'll be watching TV or sitting outside on the deck. That's a great idea for the primer push rod, maybe I can become a millionaire that way!!

[@jonathanl2748]

Doc G's Reloading Right on! I have a 50 BMG case made into a bottle opener and I love it. Great suggestion on the magnifier glasses as .380 does look just like 9 mm. Thanks.

[@matthewchisnall1061]

That last one is a nato cassing if you swage them it works well thatbive found any way

[@johnschutte71]

Win NTX cases have undersize primer pocket btw

[@larrymoore8312]

Do I see 16 bricks of primers?????

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for watching! Yes, you did see that many primers! I saw this coming and really stocked-up on primers. I have enough to last me the next 2 seasons--just in case it takes that long for them to come into stock!

[@dbelex]

You got to swag crimped primer pockets. Problems no one else has????

[@kirkboswell2575]

The two piece case is a new style. They have a stainless top portion. They are, in fact, reloadable but require special dies. They supposedly are good for reloading as much as two or three times as much as brass. I don't know that personally, but that's what the reviewers say. The main thing people need to remember about them is that they do require special dies in order to successfully reload them. Save them sir. When you get enough gathered up, offer them for sale and I'm confident that you will quickly get a buyer who has been using them. The last case shown is a military case. It has a crimp that needs to be removed before successful reloading can occur.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Thanks for your contribution! The weird thing is that with those 2-piece cases, I found that primers would just fall out (the Federal Premium Gold Medal Match small pistol primers). It must be that the special dies for those must fix that problem(?). Anyway, yes, I still have plenty of them and haven't thrown them all away!

[@florianthomas7852]

9mm Maxxtech is the worst ammo I have ever bought and shot. Never again.

[@bladeboysfv5646]

That two-piece brass cases made by shell shock and requires special dies but can be reloaded umpteenth amount of times

[@Skeetersbuzz]

1st one is Maxxtech!

[@jamesheilbrunn7187]

Save the 2 piece ones. Shellshock is 2 piece case and can be reloaded almost indefinitely

[@Pappy7064]

Another MaxxTech issue is they like to separate when shooting them. That company should stop making them.

[@jturner5227]

Another to watch out for is S &B. Shallow primer pockets. Primers stick up above the case. I just finished pocket uniformed over 400 cases.

[@MichaelJohnson-fe8tm]

Thanks for the heads up! I guess a uniformer tool, small, is on my list for the next Cabela's/Bass Pro trip. I segregate my brass cases just for this reason.

[@mattd6642]

Also thin case walls.

[@edwardseitler3437]

I’ve never even seen or heard of any of the shells casings you mentioned in this video, I’ve been reloading for 30 + years . What Commie shooters use the range your shooting at???

[@docgsreloading7985]

Believe it or not, SWAT, State Police, local/Township Police, County Sheriffs, and Military. Plus, it's a rural range, and people shoot whatever they can afford/find for ammo!

[@leroux2447]

The last case was military

[@howardamey7228]

Your last 9mm casing is more then likely, a military casing. Reaming does not work. You have to punch out thr swage ring.

[@michaelsarkisian1047]

When all you have is once fired military brass, you bite the bullet(pun intended) and buy a Dillon primer pocket swagger

[@MichaelJohnson-fe8tm]

I use a cutter, RCBS Military Crimp Remover - Small Product Number: RC90386 by hand. Lyman also makes one on a handle like a screwdriver. I like cutting the crimp away rather than pushing the metal around.

[@phild8095]

3:04 Here's a guy that doesn't swage primer pockets on 9mm.

[@docgsreloading7985]

Yup, I have an XL750 without a swaging station and as I mentioned in the video, it's an intermittent issue since only some NATO 9mm cases don't seat the primers. I wouldn't waste my time swaging everything, since most of what I pick up at the range are name-brand off-the-shelf cases. But thanks for the comment!

[@Magisktification]

I have thousand of maxxtech brass and i have newer seen one with this weird wall inside. All is ordinary straightwalled brass. Im searching and trying to find info on this brass but i only find thousands of videos and posts of this weird cousin (probably only sent to USA) 😂😂😂

[@docgsreloading7985]

Yeah, I have found more of those MaxxTech cases in my brass, and they don't have the lip on the inside. As someone else commented, it could have been a shotshell type of projectile that was originally seated in the case. Thus far, (over 10,000 rounds loaded this year) that's the only case I've found with a ridge in it. So it's probably not that common of a finding, I may have found the one unicorn! Besides, a bullet wouldn't have seated in it anyway, I just happened to catch mine during the powder check because the plunger got caught on the ridge.

[@ShadoLink9011]

@@docgsreloading7985 i found a case just like yours with the ridge in it, luckily it caught my eye when sorting brass!

[@tonybrock5288]

I've got brass from many different companies including MaxxTech and I have re-loaded thousands of rounds and never had a problem with them. @ PoliTalk says they blew up a gun with a light load of TiteGroup and a 115gr bullet in a Maxxtech. That is highly unlikely imho. Even if the case cracked and ruptured it's not going to blow up your gun because it is contained by the chamber. It was more a likely reloading error and either: 1. the headspace or crimping was incorrect so the bullet did not go fully into battery yet somehow(?) the gun still fired (what make was it?) or it was a squib that went unnoticed.

[@docgsreloading7985]

@@ShadoLink9011 I caught mine when my Double Alpha Academy magnetic powder check picked it up because the plunger got caught in the ridge and read it as an overcharged case.

[@joehunter5914]

Holy jesus you have primers for years pass a small bow this way I would be lucky to find 1 box

[@docgsreloading7985]

You know it!! I saw this coming and stockpiled enough to last me 2 seasons of shooting--this year and next year. When the small pistol primers become available again I'm going to order 50k and never drop below that! We will have many more pandemics--that's a fact.

[@joehunter5914]

@@docgsreloading7985 I'm going to get me a case of small and large pistol primers

[@freeandcriticalthinker4431]

@@docgsreloading7985 nice video. You want to sell a few thousand of those primers? Thanks

[@johnmaliskey7951]

Maxteck are Russian brass and you DON'T use 147's in them. Designed for 115 gr bullets. ...................... enjoy

[@semajniffirg230]

just take the priming crimp off

[@teb0072]

Why not get your act together before recording the video? Take some notes first so you’re not stumbling over what you’re going to say.

[@thompsonjerry3412]

Just go somewhere else mr. critic.

[@camshaftshaft2711]

Shit I wish I was as perfect as Mr Bishop! Writing notes everyday so I can remember stuff! All so I can get my act together so I don’t upset some pole smoker goo eater! Get a life man no one cares about your opinion and your greatness to the world 🧚🏻‍♀️🐀👸

[@hermanfurlong6752]

Those are military crimped cases rcbs crimp remover works great cuts out the primer hole perfectly