Beautiful sport climbing in Joshua Tree, CA - SW Corner 5.6

[@ryancxx]

Giving a belay lesson while climbing puts this closer to 5.7

[@TheJustinConnor]

😂

[@ChristenRomero-o6z]

Hoping to lead SW and Cryptic this weekend with some more beginner friends. I see for the anchor you just set up daisy chained quickdraws. For those TRing behind me do you believe this anchor setup (or a quad) is sufficient-or do I need something more to hang over the ledge (e.g. static rope + webbing). Thanks!

[@TheJustinConnor]

My gf top-roped both from the setup I had here. A quad would be better and should work fine although there will be a bit of drag since the rock rounds off at the top

[@progressivefrog3681]

Between 1985-2005, I was in Josh for a week at least 3 times a year. IMO, this is one of the coolest climbs you can do anywhere. It may be "only" 5.6, but... Just getting to the first bolt is interesting in itself, the finish on the arete is exposed, airy and worth the price of admission alone, and the perch on top is unique. If you want to make it more interesting, do it under a full moon.

[@TheJustinConnor]

Damn, I’m jealous. I’ve only been a few times, but this was certainly one of my favorite climbs ever, no matter the grade. First time we didn’t have a stick so that first clip was a doozy!

[@progressivefrog3681]

@@TheJustinConnor Stick clip? What's a stick clip? lol Yeah, getting to that first bolt definitely gets your attention.

[@TheJustinConnor]

🤣

[@mls01981]

Probably better to work out belaying tactics prior to leaving the ground. Did this yesterday, what a blast!

[@TheJustinConnor]

😂 true that… we did, it’s just that was like her 2nd time giving a lead belay 😳. Wouldn’t have done it on a harder grade - awesome climb! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@mls01981]

@@TheJustinConnor Saw the video you did of Cryptic right after. I wussed out figuring it would be too run out! Great job!

[@TheJustinConnor]

@@mls01981 thanks! It was a little scary lol

[@LarryMarkel]

Gonna make this a 2024 goal of mine. I saw this rock and thought it looked crazy cool, and saw some rad people climbing it. I can barely do V0 boulders at J Tree though, how do you think it will feel? Anything like any of the V-Easy climbs? Just trying to get a feel for the sport grades because I got served some serious humble pie when I bouldered there. Obviously sport is different than bouldering

[@TheJustinConnor]

😂 I feel you on the bouldering at J tree. This definitely felt more V-easy than V0. Especially if you stick clip the first bolt, otherwise it will be very scary to start

[@LarryMarkel]

@@TheJustinConnor Great to know, thanks for the tip. Definitely putting this on my goal list for next year.

[@TheJustinConnor]

Good luck!

[@georgebaldwin5456]

Pretty featureless first 30 feet for a 5.6. Nice job! Where'd you get those yellow socks???

[@TheJustinConnor]

Sure is! That first bit is definitely the crux, even more so the first time I did it which was without a stick clip 😬 …I think it was a multi-pack from Walmart lol

[@bryankano6247]

a lot of slab climbs in JT are like this. hard smears, very little features / maybe patina edges, and sandbagged. a 5.6 in JT is likely much harder than elsewhere except probably smith rock oregon.

[@TheJustinConnor]

@@bryankano6247 you are right about that!

[@benjam_morgan]

Onsited this guy under moonlight a few weeks ago. Super good climb but way better summit.

[@TheJustinConnor]

Nice! That sounds sweet. Definitely a beautiful view from up there

[@maxs5607]

Were the anchor rings okay to repel off of?

[@TheJustinConnor]

Bit more rope drag/rub on the rock than I would like but otherwise ya it was fine

[@Phoenixhunter157]

Dude, this is 5.6 ! 😭😭😭😭😭when I go to jtree I’m gonna 5.2 5.3 😂whewwwww! That’s a hard 5.6

[@TheJustinConnor]

😂 it’s a hard 5.6! Feels a lot better on TR 🤷‍♂️

[@staleyexplores]

looked hella hard to climb and run out...

[@bonefishboards]

tricky and 5.6 usually don't go together

[@TheJustinConnor]

Sounds like you haven’t climbed a lot of j tree slab lol

[@NickDangerThirdGuy]

...of Headstone.

[@TheJustinConnor]

Yes 👍

[@tomgunsmoke]

This is not a sport climb... was put up in 1958, long before "sport climbing" even existed.

[@TheJustinConnor]

What would you call it then?

[@tomgunsmoke]

@@TheJustinConnor It's trad... put up ground up, bolts drilled on lead, They were 1/4" bolts originally since replaced. There are plenty of trad routes that have bolts. Difference is they are put in on the lead... drilled with a rawl drive typically (still have mine.)

[@TheJustinConnor]

I see. Well I’m sure thankful they put in some bolts one way or another!