Beginner's Guide to Designing with Fit (Fusion 360) - Get the Perfect Fit from your 3D Prints / CNC

[@danh9002]

OK, I just want to say that this was one of THE best tutorials on Fusion 360. I hadn't used the "project" command or parameters before. SO helpful, and has improved my workflow significantly! Thank you so much for sharing this!

[@practicalalchemy407]

That is amazing!! Really glad to hear that it was helpful!

[@adambergendorff2702]

This was a really good video and explanation of how great parameters can be, I need to start using them more. The video was so good I went to your channel to check it out and then hit the subscribe button!

[@desmond-hawkins]

I couldn't agree more with parameters being the most important point. This is *such* a time-saver, and can avoid so many mistakes. It's not like you have to create parameters for every single dimension, but any dimension that you change or that is _based_ on a value you change has to use the corresponding parameter. I find it so frustrating to watch videos where people go back through their history and edit a whole bunch of dimensions to test just one actual value change. It's really one of the best features of Fusion 360, I don't see how I could use a CAD program without it now. *edit:* forgot something: you can add a button for parameters to your toolbar, this is what I did since I use it so often (find Parameters in the dropdown, then click the *⋮* button on the right).

[@andyj2106]

Great tip

[@AlainPilon]

Awesome video. Your content is exactly the level of details I need to improve my work and I love that you dont waste time, it goes straight to the point!

[@practicalalchemy407]

Hey Alain, thank you so much for the positive feedback! It really means a lot!

[@donschoppe5516]

Both this and your original video covering tolerances and design for fit were excellent. Thank you. I’m wondering if you also put calipers to your test prints of shafts and holes so that you know the actual deviation / error from nominal (verses checking fit between both parts you have printed). I’m thinking of the case where you’re designing a part that needs to fit with another component or assembly produced by a 3rd party, not printed by you.

[@harmindersinghnijjar]

This was mad informative. Thank you for this great tutorial!

[@ingGS]

I go simpler, my tolerance is 0.4 mm as well, but I apply it directly on the design or use either push/pull or offset faces. You can go back and modify this parameter in the timeline too. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@aersonal]

Instead of doing all those projections and such, can't you just simply extrude 0.4mm from each side needed for a tight fit without having to do all that complex stuff?

[@jetpackproject]

Great question! The fun thing about 3D modeling is that there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way in a lot of cases, it just comes down to what makes sense for you / what is the fastest workflow for you. Personally I like to use sketches whenever I can because it’s easier for me to keep track of and I feel that it minimizes the # of operations but yeah try out the extrude technique if that works for you!

[@aersonal]

⁠@@jetpackprojectgotcha, thank you for the clarification! You’re right about there not being a right or wrong way in 3D printing. I actually tried the extruding method to connect two pieces together, and it worked!

[@CTZN1]

VERY HELPFUL! Big thank you. didnt know those parameters functions like that

[@CraigHollabaugh]

Stopped 2 mins in, need to watch your video first. I'll be back. Thanks

[@mariuspetcu2087]

I did the same 😀

[@ArielLothlorien]

You definitely did this a little better then my topology would have been to do the same thank you!

[@ravm84]

Nice Video. I just started to use Fusion 360, before I was using FreeCad which seems much more complex and less pleasant. I think it easier to us "Press Pull" feature on selected walls to adjust clearance/tolerance instead of doing offset on sketch.

[@mingmac]

Very useful in every step. Thanks. Btw, can we copy the parameters to other projects or we have to create in every project?

[@trickyhickyincolour]

I have found both the videos that you have produced, re Tolerance and Fit highly informative, but like @mingmac I have the same question, is there a way that these tolerances can be saved be saved into Fusion360 for future use. I have researched t'internet and am unable to get a definitive answer to the question.

[@HayabusaRydr]

Thank you very much for the video! This is exactly what i was looking for.

[@practicalalchemy407]

That’s great to hear! Thanks for watching!

[@yourcreativeplayground6829]

thank you. What tolerance values would you use if you are just making a model to sell the stl to others? If you don't know what printer they are using is there a basic tolerance value we should use?

[@practicalalchemy407]

I may not be the best person to answer that question since I don’t sell any files currently, but I had got a commenter a few weeks ago who said that he’s found that the fit offsets tend to match up with the nozzle size 0.2mm nozzle = 0.2 mm transition fit. I haven’t tried this personally but it might be a good starting point for you. When you sell your parts maybe offer users 2 versions with the 2 most common nozzle sizes.

[@graphguy]

I can't begin to tell you how valuable this is for me! I just bought my first 3D printer to make items for a few of my hobbies. One is to make cases for ESP32 based parts. I had tried to find STL files out there, but was amazed how terrible the fit was on virtually everyone. So, despite not wanting to... I decided I just have to design my own. I have significant experience with 3d design, but in the art arena not CAD. I tried TinkerCAD and it was very useful, but I quickly found that it's limited tools was a significant hinderance. Then, I found out that I can get the Fusion 360 hobbiest version... so now I am on a mission to learn that to fit the need above. MY only request (since the vid is titled 'beginner') is for you to slow down and use mouse click highlight tool in your recording :) Thanks!

[@practicalalchemy407]

Heyo! I’m really glad to hear that this was helpful for you! I appreciate your feedback on the mouse clicks, I recently switched screen capturing programs and I promise I will make sure that I’ve got that turned on moving forward! I would definitely recommend that you check out the other beginner’s guide videos that I’ve uploaded, particularly the 4 part construction brick video. These are my ‘starting point’ videos for Fusion so I do go a bit slower and highlight the mouse clicks. Happy Modeling!

[@graphguy]

@@practicalalchemy407 thanks, I have already watched your first 4 beginners videos, excellent!

[@jimgeroul]

woow That's really useful! I didn't know about the TransitionFit Parameters and as you said, evey time the fit was not correct i had to go through every sketch! One thing though, is there a reason you project the edges on your sketches? When you create a sketch based on an object surface you already have those lines to work with, so is there a benefit to this? or it's a thing you like to do?

[@practicalalchemy407]

Hey Dimitris, Great question! I wouldn’t go so far as to say that projecting the edges is a ‘best practice’ but I’ve found that is a good way for me to stay organized, especially as my models get more complex. When you project the edges its a way for you to manually select exactly what you want your offset edge to reference. Plus you can name that sketch something like ‘Lid Fit Offset’ to make it easier go back an modify if you change your model upstream and need to change which edges you are referencing.

[@SomewhatAbnormal]

The parameters for the transition fit are related to nozzle size. In general if using a .2mm nozzle, you’ll use a .2mm transition parameter. A .4mm nozzle = .4mm transition, and you can see the pattern thus forth.

[@SpaceMidget]

Any chance of making your tolerance block available on Thingiverse? It's much nicer than the ones on there.

[@lmnopqa]

I understand offsetting the shaft, however why do you need to offset the adjacent face? If the shaft clears wouldn’t the lid close anyway? It seems like it’s just closing .4mm lower. Someone help me understand.

[@AuDiGo6]

It's not important in this example, but if you need perfect lenght dimensions, it's important. I suppose that's why he shows how to do it.

[@bantamtools]

Are you planning to machine this?

[@steveh8724]

Intent is 3D printing. Similar considerations apply if it were subtractive machining (manual or cnc milling for example).

[@bantamtools]

@@steveh8724, got it. And agreed on the considerations. We stumbled on your channel a couple weeks ago and have been tuning in. Great stuff!

[@steveh8724]

Very nice video with clear and concise explanations! Much appreciated!

[@practicalalchemy407]

Hi Steve, Really appreciate you taking the time to comment and all of your positive feedback!

[@papercrowe8772]

One thing to not is that 3d printing has a smaller deviation in the vertical direction than horizontal

[@practicalalchemy407]

Great point! 2 independent variables / parameters may be required depending on your printer/ print settings!

[@jonnieZG]

This is not a good approach. There is the "Press Pull" option that allows you to simply select faces and specify how much you want to them pushed in or out.

[@practicalalchemy407]

Hey Jonnie, Appreciate the feedback. Your comment brings up an interesting point that probably warrants a follow up video from my side. I actually really like the convenience of the “Push / Pull” feature inside Fusion BUT I also think it has some issues, especially for beginners. My main issue is that it tries to do too much and combines too many other features together. Personally I like to be intentional with my features and order of operations so I don’t like how Push Pull contextually switches functions. Yes it keeps the timeline clean but it comes with the risk of losing your design intent/ your ability to track changes if you aren’t careful. The other (minor) issue I have as someone who bounces between CAD programs is that there’s no direct 1:1 in the other programs so that can be confusing for beginners. Regardless, you make a good point that by only explaining the basics principles for adjusting fit in this video I don’t explain the faster techniques for actually getting the job done.

[@sim999]

Offset faces - I guess faster

[@darkdante2k4]

Seems like bad practice to define parameters that you arent going to actually use