Belly Full of Bad Berries Simulator. The Adam Ondra Method

We made a Belly Full of Bad Berries simulator and tried it a few different ways. It must be noted that this is a very rough simulator as the crack is not very deep, so doesn't fully represent it.
The most common way we see people climbing it is with the toe of the top foot facing into the crack (Trench Foot technique AKA. The O-Toe). The way we climbed it 11 years ago was with toe of the top foot facing out of the crack (Wide Pony technique).
When the crack is a narrower offwidth (like Belly Full of Bad Berries) it can feel more natural to put toe into the crack first, and this can often work if the crack is wide fist or hand/hand stack width, plus if the crack is deep enough. However we have found that if the crack gets wider (like it does on BFOBB higher up), then sticking to this toe in technique can start to feel increasingly worse and worse. The reason being the twisting of the foot; when using Trench Foot technique the climber has to forcefully twist the foot to enable it to stay in the crack, whereas when the climber uses Wide Pony technique the foot automatically cams (i.e. it wants to turn inwards to the centre point of the body). Therefore if the crack is wider and you still use Trench Foot technique, you are having to actively twist more and more which is increasingly tiring.
We believe alot of people climb this route with the top foot, toe into the crack, because like mentioned above it feels much more natural to do this when hanging underneath the crack. If the climber is hanging directly below the crack and they try to put their top foot into a Wide Pony technique, it will feel incredibly difficult to turn their hips out in this direction, the way to get around this is by body positioning. They should turn their body so face and chest is perpendicular to the crack rather than hanging down and inline with the crack, this will help open the hips out and get the foot into the Wide Pony foot position. Once the foot is placed, they can then hang their head and torso a little lower (more inline) with the crack so that energy can be saved in the core muscles. Moving the torso back slightly lower can also help twist the top foot (Wide Pony Foot) automatically without any extra work from the climber.
So as a very brief and rough guide:
Trench Foot AKA.The O-toe (top foot toe in) - Useful for inverted feet first cracks which are wide fist and hand/hand stack width. The technique only works when the crack is deep enough. Technique becomes increasingly worse as the crack gets wider
Wide Pony Foot (top foot toe out) - Useful for inverted feet first cracks which are wide hand/hand stack or hand/fist stack width. The technique will work in both shallow and deep cracks. technique becomes increasingly worse as the crack gets Narrower
Hope thats helpful for some folk :)
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[@WideBoyz]

We made a Belly Full of Bad Berries simulator and tried it a few different ways. It must be noted that this is a very rough simulator as the crack is not very deep, so doesn't fully represent it. The most common way we see people climbing it is with the toe of the top foot facing into the crack (Trench Foot technique AKA. The O-Toe). The way we climbed it 11 years ago was with toe of the top foot facing out of the crack (Wide Pony technique). When the crack is a narrower offwidth (like Belly Full of Bad Berries) it can feel more natural to put toe into the crack first, and this can often work if the crack is wide fist or hand/hand stack width, plus if the crack is deep enough. However we have found that if the crack gets wider (like it does on BFOBB higher up), then sticking to this toe in technique can start to feel increasingly worse and worse. The reason being the twisting of the foot; when using Trench Foot technique the climber has to forcefully twist the foot to enable it to stay in the crack, whereas when the climber uses Wide Pony technique the foot automatically cams (i.e. it wants to turn inwards to the centre point of the body). Therefore if the crack is wider and you still use Trench Foot technique, you are having to actively twist more and more which is increasingly tiring. We believe alot of people climb this route with the top foot, toe into the crack, because like mentioned above it feels much more natural to do this when hanging underneath the crack. If the climber is hanging directly below the crack and they try to put their top foot into a Wide Pony technique, it will feel incredibly difficult to turn their hips out in this direction, the way to get around this is by body positioning. They should turn their body so face and chest is perpendicular to the crack rather than hanging down and inline with the crack, this will help open the hips out and get the foot into the Wide Pony foot position. Once the foot is placed, they can then hang their head and torso a little lower (more inline) with the crack so that energy can be saved in the core muscles. Moving the torso back slightly lower can also help twist the top foot (Wide Pony Foot) automatically without any extra work from the climber. So as a very brief and rough guide: Trench Foot AKA.The O-toe (top foot toe in) - Useful for inverted feet first cracks which are wide fist and hand/hand stack width. The technique only works when the crack is deep enough. Technique becomes increasingly worse as the crack gets wider Wide Pony Foot (top foot toe out) - Useful for inverted feet first cracks which are wide hand/hand stack or hand/fist stack width. The technique will work in both shallow and deep cracks. technique becomes increasingly worse as the crack gets Narrower Hope thats helpful for some folk :) Visit our online shop: wideboyz.com

[@gigglysamentz2021]

I think one of the issues of the O-toe is that both feet rotate in the same direction, so the core and arms need to compensate, whereas the Wide Pony feet balance each other.

[@mikerowland8004]

Such a politicians answer Tom. There was a clear winner here. Wide pony is clearly the better technique and The O Dog has definitely made it harder with the "O toe".

[@shloa]

The Ondra technique only works properly when screaming.

[@leoingson]

Yep, makes your foot swell.

[@iantaakalla8180]

Also, screaming in that way actually has proven benefits in being able to unleash power, though I am sure it does not apply in sustained effort activities like a grueling crack climb.

[@dougthebuilder1]

hahaha love the subtle attempt at displaying Ondra has bad crack technique to coax him over to Sheffield for a crack lesson and video series. Completing the two pronged KZbin attack with Magnus 😂

[@Bane_Diesel]

I have never done any crack climbing and haven't been to my climbing gym in years but I have been watching all of your videos and yesterday I was in a parking garage with this perfect crack I just had to stick my hands in and give it a jam to see what its all about. My friend was very confused.

[@toby1103]

Ondra is also kink. You guys haven't previously called him Big O for nothing.

[@popuscornus42]

I thought he said kink too...

[@dave_h_8742]

Pete DID say Kink.

[@spencershields9186]

@@dave_h_8742 LOL

[@markharris2562]

I love how gently softly subtly accurately well thought out quietly gingerly tentatively cautiously guardedly consideraretly (?) gently this was all edited. Like a glove!

[@nohnoroi6221]

this. this comment give me life.

[@chethalstead]

The other day I spoke to my dad and he mentioned he randomly got recommended a video he really enjoyed and though I should watch. It was a British climbers who’s gear fell out while doing a hard climb on gritstone. Immediately confirmed the video was Anna on the E9 when he mentioned the pink and green twin ropes. Iconic

[@WideBoyz]

Ah cool. Yes that was Anna on Once Upon a Time in the Southwest. That's on the South coast of the UK, a little further south than the grit. Not 100% sure on the rock type though 🤔Maybe someone can enlighten me?

[@mundanebloodstain7141]

@@WideBoyz The rock there is a sandstone known as the Crackington Formation. Even when face climbing you all can't avoid the crack!

[@DaleTurrell]

@@WideBoyz I think it's Culm, being the Culm coast and all ;)

[@geodesicmonkey]

5:38 laughing my ass off!! I’m really glad there wasn’t a mono involved in this move! 😂 Another great video!!

[@bebble985]

That’s a good picture

[@alejand5]

I know Tom just want to be polite but there is an outstanding winner here and it starts with 'w' and ends with 'ideboyz'

[@octavia2]

I'd love to see Tom 'n' Pete getting their chat on with AO himself.

[@davebroz655]

Why are you talking about winners here? They are just showing different method and on top of it in a simulation. Let them climb the actual route and then talk about winners and loosers man.

[@alejand5]

@@davebroz655 I'm not, they are 7:17

[@octavia2]

@@davebroz655 I think you'll find they have already climbed the actual route.

[@pocoloco3095]

*New Ability Unlocked* Spotter Level: NINJA

[@MLURD]

So he did it using more demanding style and still only needed 2 tries. Respect!

[@TheAesop3]

I love the effort that goes into the video descriptions. I know not many people read the descriptions but it’s very nice 👍

[@samlevitt5736]

There’s nothing I want more from KZbin than to see a Wide Boyz O-Dog collaboration

[@meganwong9508]

Not compeltely related to the climbing itself, but those were some A+ spots. Seriously, I rewatched Tom's on Pete a few times because it was the epitome of what a good spot should be like. That aside, great vid. Love the O-Toe! Haha. Also thank you for providing even further insight with the comment! Super interesting to get a better understanding of the mechanics of it all.

[@tanmad21]

"The Ondra Method" should be the name of a super intense training program for climbers.

[@drphalanges1520]

I don't even climb, I'm just here astonished at seeing people climb up a wall upside down using only the tension on their hands and feet being wedged in there. You all are Spidermen and Spiderwomen and I'm fascinated.

[@CuriousGeorge1603]

I really enjoy watching your videos! Your channel is one of three where I actually like and comment on every video to appease the KZbin algorithm overlord. Keep up the good effort! Greetings from a german beginner climber

[@CarlisleFox]

Pete's cheeky grin at the end there, he knows the truth ;)

[@moniquehurley1470]

I literally have never crack climbed, but I love them so much

[@derekgloudemans8178]

"O-Toe" is gold!

[@WideBoyz]

I'm re naming that technique from 'trench foot' (it's original name), to O-toe. It has a nicer ring. Plus it involves Ondra, and that brings psyche 💪

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

Fist time I actually see good spotting. By the way Adam might be the King but guyz you are my legends

[@colehibbard2851]

After all these videos I still have no idea what Wide Pony means

[@zacharylaschober]

Husky small horse (on overhanging offwidth cracks, camming the foot in, especially both, heel first and knees generally bent such that you seem to be straddling a pony who has eaten too much)

[@Airsofter3009]

@@zacharylaschober the real MVP here, thx.

[@BoulderingHighlights]

5:35 they must have been practicing this position in the bedroom too

[@WideBoyz]

Cellar you mean. What happens in the cellar stays in the cellar...(Apart from all those videos we've made 😅)

[@hidden_sense9839]

@@WideBoyz "so we have this cellar, where we built some nice stuff. It is super painful, but lots of fun. We regularly invite other people and sometimes wear gas masks. With guests we usually make videos... it just makes the experience more memorable and we love to share!"

[@WideBoyz]

@@hidden_sense9839 genius 😂😂

[@josephclimbs9495]

@@WideBoyz agreed haha, I salute this man

[@BoulderingHighlights]

@@hidden_sense9839 @wide boyz i dont think cellar videos will get monetized anymore

[@markuswrede8960]

Ok, so we just got a boulder set in my local gym. First time a proper (single) hand jam is set there. And honestly, i have rarely seen so many good climbers struggle so hard on a Boulder of that grade. Same goes for a Boulder ending with a bat hang, that was set the same week (a route setter in my gym watches WideBoyz maybe?) Tbh i just think both things are proper scary and, as a relatively new climber, something im really not comfortable with doing at all. Seeing you guys do a boulder like this seems so unreal. Massive admirations from Denmark.

[@DreIsGoneFission]

I’m a total Ondra fanboy but I think it’s clear which technique is more solid.

[@Duckers_]

Needs more gypsy jazz, it went surprisingly well with the crack climbing

[@andrewgilbertson5356]

Brilliant!! Adam is King

[@badbunnyTUBE]

Tptally lost it after toping the intro off with Tom's crack packer 😂 you guys are brilliant!

[@ralfrussel1950]

Good spotting! Just don't dislocate your thumbs. Otherwise this is not possible anymore: 👍

[@JamieB96]

Would love to see a feet-only crack climb attempt

[@xtianosickboy]

That's awesome. Really helpful

[@IShotTheDeathstar]

Some people just don’t know how the body works. The heel first vs toe first argument has nothing to do with which is better and everything to do with how your hips rotates. Some people have a natural inward curve some have an outward curve. Making either toe or heel hooks/jams more comfortable.

[@WideBoyz]

The argument isn't against what feels best, it's for what gives the best mechanical advantage when placing the foot. Most of the time toe in first feels more comfortable than heel first, however heel in first gives the best mechanical advantage in the jam. We've seen it alot when coaching women, they tend to have more inward aligned hips, so find it much more natural and comfy to go toe first, however when they go heel first it can often be more diffcult to seat the jam (and not as comfy), yet ultimately it gives a more secure jam as an end point as the mechanical advantage they get is so good 😀

[@chaosengine4597]

The O-Dog did this because with the Wide Boyz method (R) the route is too easy.

[@gavinswift]

I think all future climbing should include gypsy jazz :D great upload as always

[@1441bpr]

Keep the bloopers and the laughs!

[@1lomi901]

I remember you mentioning learning video editing software and techniques a few month back. Welp, congrats, latest videos' rhythm is truly on point. Not too much, not too little. Gently Softly Subtly Accurately With thought and care Quietly Gingerly Tentatively Cautiously Guardedly Considerately ... gently ! Careful with zoom in/text modification, you missed one frame where the "Consideratelyis" is shown after the dezoom, right before the last gently Still laughed my ass off though ! "Like a glove" :D !

[@danieljensen2626]

Wide pony looks slightly harder to get in but WAY easier to hang on. I wonder how much easier Ondra would find it if he did it your way.

[@WideBoyz]

I think if Adam switched his top foot around for the upper section of Bfobb he'd be in absolute cruise mode. Toe in for the bottom section is the way to go though. That's just my thoughts anyway, others might think differently on the beta 🙂

[@Cardsandstoagies]

Wide pony is amazing

[@theskud5934]

Imagine how good Ondra would be if he had a few lessons in the crack cellar

[@obsidjan2100]

With Ondras method it´s the same as with Thors Hammer, you need to be worthy.

[@DreIsGoneFission]

Start a gofundme for plane tickets to get to the actual spot and show us how it’s done! I’d pitch in a couple bucks.

[@ryonmerrick3112]

the boys are back at it

[@Macks_Mustermann]

You guys should be glad Adam didn´t use wide pony otherwise he might have downgraded it! ;)

[@danieljensen2626]

Belly full of bad berries is already know 7C+, Century Crack is 8C. (But also crack routes are kinda weirdly graded, especially off widths.)

[@McGirr5799]

Can't believe you onsighted this

[@slowmonkey111]

Seriously hope a collab is coming soon.

[@4801534501]

Nice spotting!

[@jodyshughes1]

Pete's bed head! 🤣

[@WideBoyz]

First video of the day 😂

[@kazhatfield1346]

Good answer, "No one, it's a draw."

[@Rippaaja]

Maybe O-dog should read petes book

[@the_zenclimber]

There was not much Wide Ponying done by Tom 😉… His left foot was hardly in the crack, pushing on a wooden side wall which doesn’t exist in BFOBB

[@WideBoyz]

There is a side wall on BFOBB. I seem to remember Tom using it for a bunch of moves when he did it. I didn't though. I have seen others using it as well in photos 🙂

[@stitch3163]

“Semi-Wide Pony”… or maybe “Cowboy Pirate”

[@mikehayden7691]

Im very new to all of this... but why do so many people try to wrench their knee out of its socket for this particular crux? I don't understand the advantage and I would love to learn more.

[@308tony]

1:33 haha caught me off guard

[@blooptev]

ya love to see it

[@thomasl6912]

I think you guys should climb Silence and downgrade it to 9b.

[@WideBoyz]

The big problem here is...climbing silence 😂

[@thomasl6912]

@@WideBoyz You guys climb some really hard stuff and the style of Silence is your speciality. You might be surprised. Did you try any other sections on it apart from the crack section?

[@Industrious420]

@@thomasl6912 the whole point of your post was to discredit a grade/route that Adam made?....odd individual you are

[@thomasl6912]

@@Industrious420 No, I was just being sarcastic, didn't mean to come across in a mean way.

[@atomo8730]

science

[@benji8690]

pete what happened to your hair at 0:55, you got the Buford from phineas and ferb cut

[@samsatterly7096]

Tom clutch 🙌

[@susanjane4784]

Real rock has more texture and grit? It certainly doesn't have geometrically the same angle and width for the whole length.

[@josephclimbs9495]

Grit depends on the rock, and you'd actually be surprised about most cracks. But this is the reason you'll see someone going for a better, more specific spot on a crack sometimes vs just moving inch by inch.

[@TheJeffDing]

**laughs in Indian Creek**

[@tristanmayfield4851]

Does this ruin my onsight attempt?

[@karolinatiina]

Please, do a collab with O Dog 🙏

[@nightflash3152]

Pete or Tom or anyone else owned a pair of scarpa dragos? Was thinking of buying a pair need honest reviews

[@simonblurton8009]

them legs are so white they are hurting my eyes.

[@TheOriginalJake]

not a crack climber myself, but why not hands first? seems so much harder like this lol

[@ryancampbell9803]

Adding a comment just because..

[@camdenburke3039]

Where can we find the video of onsighting it?

[@mikaonthefly3871]

I say yall go climb it and try out, would be interesting to see different beta

[@brettyost6426]

Pete flashed it like 12 years ago

[@mikaonthefly3871]

@@brettyost6426 video or it didn't happen

[@luape6593]

hey, around 2:38 you could use pc langugage to describe the music

[@khoneyemadarbozorge8632]

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