Benchtop beltgrinder modifications

Modifying a small 25*762 (1x30) benchtop beltgrinder to give it decent precision.
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[@StefanGotteswinter]

I didnt mention it in the video, but there is a idea behind the madness: There are basicaly no good benchtop benchgrinders out there for reasonable money. So its viable for me to buy a cheap one and put some hours into it and make it useable for my purposes.

[@macmaniacal]

It's ok to admit it, I understand. I too like making things even if in the end, you've spent more money. It is still however worth it in ways you can't get with money.

[@outputcoupler7819]

It's okay, we all know you'd still modify your tools even if they're the nicest ones on the market.

[@TandaMadison]

I definitely understand your motivation. I have an old Porter Cable 4" x 36" and I use the heck out of it. However, I cannot count on it being square. The cast aluminum table is supported by only one corner and I can easily press the opposite corner down 2-3mm with my finger. A similar mod may be in my future.

[@jeremiahhuson8458]

Another kit video. Nice work you are a real inspiration.

[@matttradie1341]

I know an old shop teacher in Illinois that has half a dozen sanders.....

[@Ed_Stoddard]

You remind me of my father. 50 years as a tool and die maker and once retired, everything he bought needed at least one modification to make it work the way it should. Great job.

[@chiquinhoreydelas]

nice trick for silver soldering, thanks for showing it

[@marceloiannini8199]

This is easily the most useful and used tool in almost any shop, be it wood or metal working. I had a cheapo Skil horizontal belt sander and a Viel Canada 1x42 vertical sander. I later replaced them with much more robust 1220x100 horizontal metal sander and a more robust 1x42 vertical/disc sander (they are the same factory that manufactures Optimum). Even though they are much more robust, better build and way more silent, they are still no precision tools. Thanks for sharing this video, it inspired me to desire to modificate to my new sanders (tables and pulleys are good, but brackets are flimsy). I always postpone on making a nice grinding attachment such as that by Harold Hall. When I do it, will probably make it to fit the three machines (vertical, horizontal and bench grinder).

[@nder12345]

Woo hoo two videos In a week thanks Stefan. Cheers From Australia mate

[@jimpritz4169]

Fantastic improvements to a machine probably originally intended for wood where precision is normally not measured in microns. You have amazing skills. Thank you for sharing this improvement.

[@robertklein2816]

I can see where this is going to end up, not a part left from the original except maybe the on/off switch and it will be whisper quiet and of course it will be painted green.

[@kellerrobert80]

Painted grün to match his welding helmet's visor.

[@ShevillMathers]

I have to smile, you take a good idea machine, poorly made, and convert it into the machine machine it should be. I admire your attention to detail and making parts that function as they should. The machine is now worth 4 times the original price. Well done, again I learn a lot from your videos. Best from ‘down under ‘ 👍🛠🔭🎹🇦🇺

[@vendter]

I have a 1x42 and it is the most used tool in my shop. It sound like a great idea to install a diamond wheel on the sanding disk side, I wish I thought of that. I was taught when silver soldering, after heating the part to put the torch on the opposite side you are soldering so the solder is pulled into the joint (the solder will wick toward the heat), then switch the two and do the other side.

[@HansFormerlyTraffer]

What a pleasure it is to watch someone with your skill and good tooling. I learned a lot just watching this first video. I wish I had your sense of precision.

[@troyam6607]

"this is not exciting but i need to fill the video" - your so good to us Stefan hahaha

[@Ujeb08]

I like the trick of using the center punch to "shim up the plate to allow solder to wet the entire surface. You just have to calibrate your hammering to get the four dimples to the same heights. lol it was an enjoyable video with lots of content. Thanks for sharing.

[@Michal_Ce]

Hi! Great work as always. One thing that I think you could miss is that driver pulley spokes acted as a fan (I can only guess!) and it prevented all grinding dust to collect in the bottom of the grinder base. I am not sure if that is the case, but I thought it was worth putting this in the comment :)

[@BossWelder81]

Thanks for sharing. Virtual apprentice from middle Illinois. All that flex would bother me and I wouldn't be able to leave well enough alone until I broke it trying to brace it. Knowing when to quit is the mark of a true professional :)

[@MaxWattage]

I'm pleased to see you using dust extraction when turning Linen reinforced Phenolic (Phenol formaldehyde resin). In solid bulk-form, the material is useful and perfectly safe, but if the fine dust gets hot during cutting or sanding, it can evolve free formaldehyde vapour, which is a potential respiratory sensitiser and has been shown in experiments to cause cancer in animals. Formaldehyde is classified in the UK, and in the European Union as a carcinogen and it carries the hazard statement ‘suspected of causing cancer’. Formaldehyde can irritate the eyes, skin and respiratory tract and prolonged exposure could cause skin sensitisation and allergic contact dermatitis. Either way, it is probably sensible to take basic precautions to avoid breathing in the fumes or dust, or getting it on your skin if you can avoid it.

[@TomChame]

No need to be concerned, Stefan was wearing his safety flip-flops.

[@richknudson5137]

Love your channel! I had an issue with vacuum adapters also, I found that my 3d printer made quick work of producing any size I need. Although I am just a hobbyist tinkering in my "golden years", I can relate to your pursuit of precision! Rich, Seattle, WA.

[@charles1379]

Another great video, full of useful tips and tricks. I notice that the backing plate needs to be removed to change the sanding belts. Instead of cutting the wide slot at the back of the platen, I suggest that a narrower slot is used to the LHS like the original platen was made. In this way the belts can be removed without unbolting the backing plate. the mounting of the backing plate to the platen is a good idea. the punching of the surface prior to clamping and silver soldering is brilliant. The concept can be used in so many applications. Thanks.

[@f.jasonarotin2417]

Thanks Stephan, your insights are very impressive. Between you and Robin my understanding of toolmaking has been enhanced. I'm thankful you do these in English for us Americans.

[@SteveSummers]

Thanks Stefan👍. Definitely nice to be able to get small parts very close to square on the belt sander. I like the design.

[@joecnc3341]

Thanks for the great video, Stefan. Your english language skills are becoming quite fluent with your correct use of the word "dingleberry". :) Keep up the great videos - stay safe, stay healthy. Vielen Dank von Romeo Michigan USA

[@joell439]

Stephan, I’m always excited to see a new video from you. Every time I learn so much watching the MASTER at work. Thanks so much for sharing! Joel.....

[@garyc5483]

Some very useful mods Stefan. Very precise for a belt sander. Thanks for sharing regards from the UK

[@metalillness5951]

Stefan, Simply replacing the idler wheel bearings with quality ones sure did quiet mine down. Money well spent. Thanks for the videos Sir!

[@boblasley5640]

Thanks Stefan! I had a boss once who said he had never seen anything that couldn't be improved. I'll have to remember the center punch divots to space for the silver solder/brazing. I always learn something (sometimes many somethings) from your videos.

[@junglejammer1]

A ton of good tips in this video, Stefan. I especially, liked the one about center punching the silver brazing joint.

[@tomthumb3085]

Another brilliantly executed modification to a very useful shop tool. Great to watch, thanks.

[@iainwilliams6510]

Damn it! Yet another tool I need to buy and modify. Didn't even know I needed one half an hour ago! Great job, Stefan, as always.

[@russellhayward2359]

Fantastic modification Stefan, since finding your KZbin channel, via the shop visit you had, I've been working my way through your videos, look forward to the next one! Keep up the great work and content 🙂

[@pitu72ger]

Love the machine improvement projects.

[@Louisg1100]

H Stefan. Watching you work is an inspiration

[@forrestaddy9644]

A tutorial how $1500 in high talent labor can turn a $65 import belt sander into an $800 precision (but not adjustable) belt sander. ;-) Good work, Stefan. I've "gold plated" many a dubious import tool into actual usability. It's a good way to get quality where you need it in otherwise crappy stuff. Make, buy, or modify. Nice to have option. As it happens, I have a very similar but 50 years older belt sander. While it has a cast iron table the belt platen is sheet metal just as springy as yours. My plan was to replace it with something more substantial but the spring turned into a slight advantage as it relieves to allow the belt splice to pass. Maybe the better present day belts are more uniform in thickness but the cheap crappy ones I still have in stock have a glued lap. PITA. And, BTW, a hard platen is a Good Thing in a belt sander. Cast iron or soft steel platens soon wear a hollow just above the table that makes an acceptably flat surface tricky to attain. The HSS platen in your mod should last 20 times longer and it can be easily refurbished. That cheap-ass belt sander I bought on sale in 1970 turned put to be one of the most convenient and often used power tools in my shop. I placed it near the band cut-off saw for deburring but I use it for edge contouring, general sharpening (great job on pencils,) leveling, tungsten pointing etc. I must have 20 belts on the pegs just above in different grits and states of wear. My neighbor has used it for years to tune up his hatchets and axes. I accuse him of being too cheap to buy his own but he contributes belts of better quality than I buy so I'm content.

[@StripeyType]

I had been considering some similar work to a belt grinder in my own shop, but without any confidence that this would be at all worthwhile, I had decided not to undertake it - thanks for sharing this! I shall have to reconsider. Also, whenever I see shop tools in Europe, I'm made jealous by the compulsory inclusion of a "No-Voltage Release" switch, even on relatively inexpensive tools. Here in the US, such a switch is rarely included and of course never on a cheap tool, because the law does not require them, though they'd likely save someones fingers. And always and forever, that your mains voltage is 240v. :D

[@63256325N]

Really nice improvement! Thanks for the well put together video. 👍

[@tombellus8986]

You are a great Machinist/Tool Maker I really enjoy your videos and am sure that most everyone who watches will learn at le ast one useful tip Thank you!

[@52Ford]

Neat trick using a center punch to create allowance for the braze to flow. Thanks for sharing that.

[@derKarl_stp]

doing some "slight" modifications (aka. a lot of modifications being done Gottewinter-style) nice vid and good tipps on that soldering part... you never stop learning :D

[@curtisvonepp4335]

Clever modifications Stefan on your belt sander and the dimond wheel addition nice toolmakers Sander 🔔🔔🔔🙌.

[@alexwbakker]

FWIW, as a guy that used to make knives, it’s worth it to grab some of the norton blaze belts. The ceramic belts really cut cooler and better.

[@danonino22]

hey, Stefan. I'm a new subscriber. came by chance to your channel, thanks to Tony. Biology is really my field, I'm a vet; but I find the things you guy do really relaxing. so, I´m thinking about gatting into the "hobbie". I guess, I wanted you to know you guys are really inpiring. keep it up, I'm glad your channel is slowly, but constantely growing. cheers from Argentina!

[@Cancun771]

Mine produced an almighty rattle whenever I turned it on. First suspect was the strange springy belt tensioning mechanism, which I don't really understand why it needed to have a half inch of free play. Tightened it down, which fixed a lot of the problem but then directed my attention to the belt wandering back and forth. Turns out no two of the three wheels are in alignment. I'm writing this comment 90 seconds into the vid, wondering how much of this will crop up.

[@infoanorexic]

10 micron out of square, and it's "O-K-ish" and people have called me "fussy" ...

[@jasonh3109]

Wonderful as always Sir. Great content, hilarious humor, and awesome editing. Thanks for sharing!!!!

[@paulubelhack6967]

stefan, dir bei der arbeit zugucken macht immer spass

[@howder1951]

Once again Stefan, in a single word ; Inspirational! Cheers!

[@eastcoastandy2905]

Don't be concerned about the East German HSS, Stefan. The stuff I used over the years was excellent, even as cutting tools ! I used to own a 300mm 'Greif' pedestal grinder, also DDR produced. It was the only grinder of any form that I never had to modify. I like your good common sense build here. Nice one!

[@pgs8597]

G’day Stefan, I didn’t think 250W motor would be good for anything and I was amazed proper bearings in the idlers. Thanks for sharing, cheers. Peter

[@billchiasson2019]

Great video! And as you mentioned before "it is a kit" and it's always fun to improve on a machine.

[@nickearl8591]

I shall definitely revisit my own belt sander with this in mind. However, I was impressed by your language skills and the use of 'dingleberry' as I thought this was only used by a few West Country English types...

[@machineshopatthebottomofth3213]

Tubal cain had one of these grinders and slated it. I have one and despite a load of decent tools, I use it more than anything in the shop. Hopefully tubalcain will see this and see the light😁

[@artmckay6704]

Have you Stefanized your equipment yet? No? Well, get it in gear and properly tune that thing up, sir! Ah, you do wonderful work Stefan and we all appreciate what you do - and do so well! Thank you! :)

[@tedbear2478]

Realy nice settup man. I would buy one instantly😁

[@KravchenkoAudioPerth]

Good stuff. I have had one that I purchased in 1992. I have used it a lot. looking good Stefan.

[@skeeter50001]

Great video and outstanding skill,. Fantastic finished product.

[@peteramor7373]

Thanks Stefan for another great video and I will be looking out for the next one Pete UK

[@lyndonthan]

Thanks for so many great videos, Stefan. I would have tried clamping the plate during welding to minimize the distortion, and let those crystals form in the shape I want.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Stefan, very nice modifications, thank you for sharing, ATB Matty

[@BConnie27]

Ironically, I was looking into buying one of these style belt grinders. Thanks for sharing!

[@christopherdahle9985]

Handy machines, but hard to maintain. I find that dust builds up in the bearing recess on the frame side of the idler wheels and that there is not a convenient way to dislodge it, especially on the rear idler wheel. My students put about 3 hours of run time on these every day, and after about two weeks the dust seems to work it's way past the seals and cause the idler bearings to seize up. Unfortunately, the wheels are press fit on the axle shafts and the only way to get them off is to haul the whole machine over to the press, an annoying and time consuming process. I've learned to hit the top idler wheel bearing with a blast of compressed air at the end of each school day, and it's not too difficult to get to the front side of the rear idler wheel with compressed air. but there is no good access for an air nozzle on the back side of the rear idler wheel. I've been thinking about drilling air ports through the frame and the dust shroud. Really though, I wish the manufacturer of these machines had thought to make the idler wheels more servicable by making them a slip fit on the axle. The ideal for me would be to pull the idlers off and to clean and lube the bearings at each belt change. Oh well, still pretty good machines considering how cheap they are.

[@brucewilliams6292]

Great video! I always learn so much from watching you work. Thank you for your efforts.

[@iTeerRex]

Two videos in one week.. Awesome!

[@TomMakeHere]

You leave me with a difficult choice Stefan. Go to bed (have an early start in the morning) or keep watching... I guess it's extra coffee tomorrow!

[@astro1218]

I'm in the same boat my friend. we must go on!

[@ChirpysTinkerings]

Looks good, if you move the dust collection hole just under the front of it, just under the bottom of the front of the big wheel, the dust collection setup will work much much better.

[@thebotformalityknownasdale2564]

I too have the same grinder and I'm increasing the belt size to 2" so I have 3 = size wheels of 3.5 so I'm just going to pare up 1" X 3.5 wheels with a combination of small bolts and if needed epoxy and cut out the extra room needed on the cast table and in your video you said you need a crown so I think il need the same witch il make out of high temp epoxy ! Do there thanx for the idea and education again ! 9h hell now you said you gona put on a diamond wheel and I need the same. Too since just like you I never used that 8" flat wheel eather but a Dimond wheel I deffently will mostly fr sharpening everything wow this video has been very valuable to me thanx again!

[@BrianFyhnPetersen]

I often use an orbital sander for cleaning up metal surfaces. I think it gives the parts a nice brushed look.

[@Smallathe]

Wonderful improvements! Loved the build. I also bought a belt sander and I am wondering as well how I could work without it. Not that it's impossible - files will do the job - but it is SO much faster, easier, accurate and fun too... I also improvised mine with a raised surface to get the belt going the way I want it and I'm thinking of even further improving it... and making it more versatile.

[@johnmcdyer7297]

Dremel on steroids you just crack me up what a great way you say things extremely informative and entertaining

[@curroz7689]

About Delrin brittleness. Thing is, properties of polymers depends not only upon it's chemical composition, but also the way you mold it. Thickness of a part, temperature of a mold, speed, temperature and pressure of a molten plastic, the way plastic flow in the mold and other parameters which I don't know - it all affect the properties of final part. Essentially it boils down to how well you designed a mold, because some of this parameters determined by proper mold design, and you couldn't change them later (at least cheaply)). For example: if you have a condition were two streams of molten plastic meet each other (e. g. you have a hole in your part), plastic may cool down enough that it can't fuse with itself properly, and your part would crack easily along that meeting point. I don't have a lot of knowledge about injection molding, but I've seen an interesting example at our work, with one of the parts we manufactured - you could cut out a piece out of that part and fold that piece in half no problem, but, cut out a piece from another section of the same part, and it will break at about 60 degree bend, despite it being almost identical thickness in both cases. As of Stefan's drive wheel breaking, I call Chinese cheapness, probably proper mold design would cost too much, so they half-assedly design the mold, and we got what we got. Also I would not be surprised if they messed with molding process, to shorten the mold cycle, to make part as cheap as possible)

[@nerd1000ify]

I'm not sure it was Delrin at all- Maybe it was ABS or some other cheaper plastic.

[@wordwyrd]

That condition where the converging plastic doesn't fuse properly is called a "cold shut" if you like to look it up

[@SamEEE12]

Thanks for sharing Stefan, I am always learning something from these videos!

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Nice modification . Cheers .

[@Cancun771]

The mod I am contemplating now is a belt guide which is rigid but also easy to remove, because when grinding non-square parts, having the belt flex back gives you a lot of freedom to shape them, like in knife making. Maybe bolted on from the top.

[@WrenagadeWorkshop]

Very cool project Stefan, thanks for sharing :) Looking forward to see how you tackle the diamond wheel, I may have to follow suit and get one of these units myself.

[@barrystevens2780]

I once designed a machine using a fiber based phenolic gear with the idea of needing to replace the gear in that position most often. The surprise was that it wore out the mating steel mating steel gear.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Haha, yes, thats a common thing. Same when you use plastics like UHMW for sliding surfaces, they will often eat away at the steel counterpart.

[@erikisberg3886]

I think that this may happen because grinding dust etc embeds in the plastic creating a lapping action that wears steel promptly... Phenolic is known to absorb a little oil. If kept clean it is excellent for precision gearing etc. They reduce gear noise well. My old Arboga drill press has steel/phenolic gearing.

[@wayneacaron8744]

AND im glad to see more video from you. poppy's workshop says HI

[@fuzzy1dk]

so what are saying is that if you just replace everything but the motor and the on-off switch it's pretty good ;)

[@bob5074]

I’d love to see you do a shop tour of Robin’s shop!

[@wbogardu]

Excellent video.

[@BrendaEM]

Disk sanders with a table are not without their charm. A disk sander can often make a flatter surface because the abrasive is firmly attached to the moving parts. It can be a little tricky to set the table angle, when you don't want to touch the belt with a good square, but putting a piece of tape over the square makes a fairly parallel surface, or you can custom mill a sacrificial square. The problem with disk sanders is: they only cut on the outer diameter, so that limits their cutting distance to less than half of the disk. Oddly both a disk and belt sander eats tool-steel for lunch. It's always best to keep the part moving to let the abrasive cool, so it doesn't soften what holds it on the belt. An old shoe, with especially a Hush-Puppy gum rubber type sole makes a good belt cleaner. Also, be wary of fences that only attach on one side. A small part may wedge and open a space between a fence and the belt becoming your fingers to become wedged into the moving belt.

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

Nice upgrade Stefan!

[@burtlade1705]

Excellent! Thanks for the fine educational video.

[@shakdidagalimal]

This is why I stick with a 2 layered MDF 12" circle on an old craftsman 1/4hp motor (I did weld the collet mount to small circle plate for the 12" sanding circle, 4x 1/4" bolts and washers). LOL That was enough work it has been great.

[@mk6595]

Put a strong magnet in the case by the bottom wheel to capture most of the ferrous grinding dust.

[@Whitefirekith]

I love those Emco Maximat super 11 lathes! Being in the United State, I can only just dream about owning one.

[@tonksfight3518]

In the next video we are going to replace all the sheet metal with 5mm stailess, and put a 3 phase motor with an inverter

[@molitovv]

Butter is beurre in french, so you could use the old belt sander to ‘de-burr le beurre’

[@joansparky4439]

You could have picked up the center for Y anywhere on the disc (when your Y travel was limited at 12:40 ).. the high points are just the farthest distance. But anywhere along the circumference on both sides perpendicular to the X axis would have worked.

[@xenonram]

Yes. I'm sure he knows this, but just wasn't thinking.

[@TheMachiningman]

As Don Henley said, I love those Bavarians, so meticulous

[@perw12345]

"This is also not very exciting, but I need to fill the video." 46 Minuten, 27 Sekunden. Nicht, dass ich mich beschwere, es ist immer eine Freude dir beim Arbeiten zuzusehen. 😄 Sowas finde ich jedenfalls besser als Teile die fertig aus dem Nichts erscheinen.

[@chrisstephens6673]

It's been Stefanised! 👍 Love it. And your next task is to find a way to change belts without tools.😤

[@Changtent]

Computer guys have a cellphone "app" that changes the belts for you, before you know it needs changing. lol

[@Chris-pb3se]

Another great vid Stefan, Thank you

[@sblack48]

My belt grinder is 2" x 48" and it is one of my favourite tools. I can hog off material on a piece of 1/4" cold rolled steel, or put a fine polished finish on a hammer face or even take rust off with a scotchbrite belt. The key is being able to swap out belts quickly. Do you have to remove the table to switch the belt? If you could design your way around that on the next iteration it would be worth the effort, unless you intend to use it for just one main task. Anyway, very interesting video. Thanks.

[@WerneckDexter]

Hello Stefan. As usual, it's a pleasure to whatch you videos. At about 14:50, you are deburring the part... Could you mention which tool bit you are using in your rotary tool there? Thank you and best regards from Brazil.

[@koharaisevo3666]

What his old video, this is everything you need to know about deburring. kzbin.info/www/bejne/laWyf4GonLeWqJI

[@Chris-pb3se]

Your TIG skills are coming along nicely. Your too hard on yourself, that weld looked pretty good from here

[@tacitus101010]

Amazing work!

[@EitriBrokkr]

Stop stalling, and just remake the entire thing from scratch already 😁

[@lsubslimed]

That would be pretty cool. Especially with a better motor and VFD with a reverse switch for the future diamond disc. With this kind of solid precision modification, this cheap plastic sander now deserves a full facelift. 😎👌

[@opendstudio7141]

That is what I expected, considering that the video was 45 minutes long. 😊

[@namibjDerEchte]

@@lsubslimed No VFD. Just a small 3-phase motor.

[@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738]

I don't know what your budget is Stefan and you have spent time on your sander, but I found the Viel S-5 sander with a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm motor works very well with deburring of my small parts. there is also a Viel sander-grinder for fitting on to a 6" bench grinder. Just a thought. Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada

[@duobob]

Knife makers often use pyroceram glass for the platens on their grinders. They say it outlasts hardened D2 steel. It will be interesting to see how well HSS compares to pyroceram.

[@consaka1]

You know. I was looking at that round wheel sander and thinking to myself that it might be made to support those 1000 grit diamond wheels to sharpen carbide bits. I have to think about this and see if I can find one here in the states. Dangit, I should finish watching videos before commenting. I thought you were reading my mind there at the end with the diamond wheel. lol

[@lundysden6781]

awesome work Stefan, but is everything in your shop scaled to 1/3 normal size, even your coolant bottles! I have a feeling one of your relatives was a watch maker!

[@levi-lukesmith3504]

He's just a giant actually haha he's like 6'7" around two meters!

[@AJR2208]

HI Stefan, please excuse my ignorance and please would you or someone else educate me if this idea would not work, but - Could you move the table and backing plate forward a little (-Y axis) to be proud of the tangent to the guide wheels and include small (12mm - 15mm diameter) rollers to lead and trail off the top and bottom of the backing plate. I believe this would keep the belt from "flapping" on the backing plate and maintain constant belt contact along the length of the grinding section. What do you think??

[@glennfelpel9785]

I hope that you will video the diamond upgrade....that would be interesting to see.Nice job.