bespoke tailoring 26 The Sleeve Head

[@martagrisales5681]

Que lindo video ! Gracias Sr Silvio Chan

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching

[@Lornanduyan]

I am learning a lot from this video, thank you

[@silviochan89]

@@Lornanduyanmy pleasure

[@KalekeniPeter]

Fantastic, learned a lot from this video

[@silviochan89]

@@KalekeniPeter my pleasure

[@romsel2422]

you are the best teacher🙏🙏

[@silviochan89]

my pleasure

[@toobalkain]

Hi, amazing videos. I'm having a bespoke suit made and I'm trying to get my tailor to make it a Neapolitan silhouette but he doesn't seem to quite get there. As far as I can see, the key part is the shoulder line, Neapolitan suits seem to have a very pronounced crescent line ending in a very soft sleevehead, either con rollino or spalla camicia. The other thing that seems to determine the silhouette is the chest area, Neapolitan suits seem to follow the natural chest line looking almost like knitwear, while other jackets tend to have drape there and it looks much more formal, as if there's hollow air underneath. Obviously there are other elements ranging from wider lapels, pronounced lapel roll, barchetta chest pocket to patch pockets but how hard is it for a technically competent tailor to mimick the Neapolitan silhouette?

[@silviochan89]

You know a lots in mens tailoring, hope one day you will your ideal tailor to made your dream suits, have a good day and thank you for watching.

[@toobalkain]

@@silviochan89 thank you. In my experience, I'm better off with a good off the rack suit than a bespoke one, I look great in ready to wear Canali jackets, with minor alterations it'd be perfect, and Casa del Sarto jackets look great in photos too, why should I even bother with bespoke? I can't go to Napoli to have my suits made so I tried three different bespoke local tailors spending 3x what I'd pay for off the rack Canali and no one seems to be able to create a jacket with a soul, I can't say they're not trying, the latest tailor prepared 3 different fitting jackets for me to try, but the look just doesn't quite come together the way your jackets do with a certain flow, softness and casualness to them, they somehow look stiff and formal. Do you think it's even possible to make a jacket Neapolitan style without training under a Neapolitan tailor?

[@gomescateto7183]

Eu sou Angolano e vivo em Luanda, gostei muito dos vossos videos, quero muito aprender com vocês,e conversar com vocês, obrigado.

[@silviochan89]

I am glad there is people watching my video from Luanda, I will keep on to make more video to share my experience in bespoke tailoring to the world , today is Luna new year in HongKong, Happy new year to you and your family.

[@ritagalati1009]

A me la manica tipo uomo fa difetto sotto l' ascella dietro,cosa fare

[@olusegunadejumo606]

Good day. Well done Sir. Your sleeve head measures 3.7cm on one side and 5cm on the other side. Please which side fall on the back and which side fall on the front? Thanks.

[@silviochan89]

Usually the front sleeve head is longer than the back sleeve head, I am happy with the result, so in my case 5 cm is front , 3.7 cm is back,

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching

[@crissie-cristhianzencuadro8341]

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us do you give personal classes ?? Have a great day from Canada

[@silviochan89]

Sorry, I do not give personal classes, thank you for being interested in my channel, have a nice day

[@chardsdactchardsdact5625]

É uma arte. Parabéns!

[@piccalillipit9211]

SO HELPFUL - I make historical suits and the western videos all use shop-bought parts, I want to make the parts as would a tailor 100 years ago...

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching, and I am glad the video it helps

[@piccalillipit9211]

@@silviochan89 - Many of your videos have been very helpful - thank you. I am sure you will get many more subscribers!

[@mcomeslast]

Yes, I’m learning ladies tailoring and to make softer parts, they often need to be made up. These help so much. Thank you!

[@silviochan89]

@@mcomeslast thank you for watching, I hope in the future I can make video focus on womenswear

[@mamasaidsew4843]

Agreed. I wanted to see how the sleeve head was made and this did not disappoint.

[@olusegunadejumo606]

Good day Sir. Please after stitching sleeve to armhole, we stitch shoulder pad and sleeve head. Please are we stitching them on the same seam line. Thanks.

[@silviochan89]

Good question , the seam allowance of armhole for the final garment is 0.8 cm, shoulder pad stitch on the canvas only ( not the armhole ) , sleeve head hand stitch 0.6 cm seam allowance on the armhole ( must less than 0.8 cm ) , and then machine stitch 0.8 cm seam allowance for the final garment , after machine stitching, the hand stitch of sleeve head will be remove away, other basting stitches are allowed to stay on the armhole. , so sleeve head and sleeve are not stitched on the same line.

[@swapnilingle5472]

Very nice 😊

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching

[@prabhakarvanam8214]

Very good sir. Please continue prabhakar India

[@silviochan89]

thank you for watching, in fact the jacket have not been finished

[@shahidjamal3805]

Very nice

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching

[@miruchelle]

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching

[@ИринаП-8372]

🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋

[@silviochan89]

Thank you for watching

[@omarmuhammd3869]

شرح رائع

[@mdsufyankhankhan2607]

Cutting training

[@timgidney3189]

Great work but you could do with some proper left handed shears!

[@gomescateto7183]

Gostei muito,e quero aprender muito mais,

[@silviochan89]

I am glad you like my video , thank you .

[@AbdeljalilBouhddar]

شكرا شكرا

[@BireMan-dj7km]

Muraa kotii tartibaa saa