Best DIY filter for your 3D printer: solving 3d printing smell and fumes

[@Klaevin]

I just want something that I can use to print in my studio apartment without getting cancer or asthma...

[@jamesdeclan7538]

Get a whole room hepa filter and put the printer in a room you don't spend time in. The UFPA are what cause the "cold" like symptoms. And as far as we know ASA doesn't release any confirmed carcinogens.

[@SAMZIRRA]

Go to Lowe’s, buy acrylic or glass panels. Make a box with silicone sealer for the edges. Make a notch at the bottom for power, a hole for a tube where the funesnwill be sucked out your window with a tiny fan at the end

[@Klaevin]

@@SAMZIRRA wow, I never would have thought of that! Only one issue : I don't live in America and don't have a Lowe's nearby. Oh, also, it's winter, so it might not be a great idea to be pumping heated air outside because... You know... Wasting energy and stuff. Oh, and I almost forgot, I don't actually have a window in my apartment? Only a big sliding window-door. So I really think an air filter would be more reasonable

[@joeking433]

@@Klaevin Air filters are a nice idea but do they actually work? If they do just get a big air purifier.

[@joeking433]

@@Potatobitz I am thinking of the same thing to get some air circulation in my basement. And it's not overkill at all!

[@Chris-okf]

I just bought 2 X1C’s and want to add this to them. While researching carbon pellets on Amazon (because I’m lazy and order everything from Amazon) the manufacturers are vague on whether their product is acid free. One solution I found is you can soak the pellets in a solution of 1 gallon of water/ 1 tablespoon of baking soda overnight and then dry the pellets in a dehydrator before using them. This should also eliminate the dust also.

[@printedarteu]

i wouldnt risk it. lookup what acid cleaned carbon do to your rods and rails.

[@TheMugwump1]

I can't argue against doing whatever you can do to make the air you breathe healthy and clean, but the only real solution is putting your printer in an enclosure and exhausting the gas outdoors. Some resin printers have covers with a hole built in so you can add an exhaust. All you need besides the enclosure is a small fan with a connection to some power source like a usb to 3 or4 pin and that little Noctua fan controller. You can print flanges and you'll need to source some small hoses. You can then, depending on budget, get some plywood or plexi and make something to cover up your window opening that the hose can stick in to vent outside. You only need the smallest amount of airflow to move the air outside. Casement crank windows are another story. You're likely gonna need a big piece to stick in the window.

[@tgsparkyoriginal]

I’m thinking about ducting my Bambu out the window which is just behind the printer. Only issue is I’d like to turn the chamber fan on after a print but can’t work out the gcode 😬

[@ydoucare55]

Do not print stuff like ABS or ASA indoors without proper ventilation of your printing space. Full stop. Filters are not enough. Ventilate your space or don't do it.

[@saintjohnny45]

what does "proper ventilation" mean?

[@eaar]

@@saintjohnny45extraction to send the exhausr air outdoors

[@robonator2945]

Or, better yet, just get air quality sensors and respond accordingly based on the air quality you actually get in real world use. Proper filtration can *_absolutely_* be sufficient if it's scaled appropriately, but you have no way of knowing if it is/isn't scaled appropriately without getting a proper air quality sensor. Many filtration systems like the Nevermore StealthMax (specifically the "smart" variant) have these sensors builtin and can adjust their fan curves to keep the VOC and particulate counts low within the chamber, and the chamber isn't going to leak a higher pollutant % than it actually has inside of itself so if you can keep the chamber at safe levels you are certainly keeping the rest of the room at safe levels. (and, even if you are still worried about leaks, good filtration systems have a way of venting small amounts in order to generate negative pressure and stop leaks without venting so much that maintaining internal chamber temps is hard) Just actually check, blindly assuming the worst possible case is a completely stupid move and will lead to increase costs even while you have no way of knowing if it's actually solving the problem since, again, *_you're not checking._* Get a sensor, see whether or not you have a problem, if you *_do_* have a problem, solve it. Blindly assuming that yes, you do have a problem and, yes, this one particular course of action will 100% definitely solve it, is incredibly stupid. It'd be like someone paying for a full tank of gas everytime they get in their car to drive anywhere instead of actually looking at their gauge to see how much, if any, they need to refuel. Sure, technically you can be 90% confident that you'll never run out, but 1 : you're paying way more than you need to and wasting way more than you need to, and 2 : it's still not even providing you with certainty, if you have a punctured tank and are leaking gas then even buying a full tank everytime you get in your car won't guarantee that you're full, because it's just leaking out as you pour it in. If you want certainty you already need to look at your gas gauge, so just do that to begin with and save yourself the time and money. You'll save time and money solving the problem, you'll be alerted if the problem arises again, and you won't be in a situation where you have to blindly hope that your solution worked.

[@cinnac0n]

​@robonator2945 Most affordable air quality sensors are inadequate for detecting all the possible gases and particulates (depending on material) though, from what I hear. What sensor would actually give you peace of mind?

[@robonator2945]

​@@cinnac0n this isn't a lab, you just need a rough idea of the general concentrations. There are absolutely affordable sensors that achieve that standard and could (and should) be integrated into printers.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

Thank you, I am glad KZbin recommended this video and I am going to build some soon.

[@jim5148]

I was surprised that it draws air in through the top, since the VOC's from ABS will gather at the bottom of the print chamber. Thanks for the informative video.

[@Mr19assassin74]

Mine pulls air from the bottom. Just reverse the fans.

[@zap117]

enclosed printer. exhaust carbon filter or recirrculated fitler(the filter), good ventilated rom and/or air purifier. done

[@3dFirefly]

surprised it wasn't designed with blower motors, which has higher static pressure but lower flow than fans, someone did post a remix with blowers!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Yep. If i recall the original designer did some test comparison that made him lean towards the 4020

[@chettiarsirusraj9501]

You can use a soldering iron to insert the brass threaded inserts you just need to be careful of the soldering tip height to avoid piercing through the 3D-printed parts as you are using the very small brass insert in this video for your 3D-printed parts.

[@zeeshankhaliq9179]

It would have been great to see some detail of the wiring to the power adapter. I’m struggling with wiring with the T tap wire adapter you linked.

[@Z_1Y1_D]

Thanks for this video im happy that i was able to add a PMW to adjust the speed of 40×40×20 fan ❤😊

[@prkchpsnaplsaws2322]

For whatever it's worth -- a little feedback: The video is about the best DIY filter... I'm quite a bit into the video and you're still talking about all the things not to do. I just want to hear about the right thing.

[@agarza6475]

You mention creating negative pressure in the print chamber and exhausting the air to the outside. If you are printing a filament such as ABS that needs to maintain a certain temperature in the print chamber, wouldn't venting be counter-intuitive?

[@fredhamilton1701]

Good question. The negative pressure should be very low - just enough to keep any leaks in your enclose moving air in the right direction. On my Voron 2.4 I run the exhaust fan at 10% to 15% speed, and chamber temps (heated by bed only) stay around 50°-60°C for ABS and ASA.

[@Hitstrekker]

Lots of people commenting on venting the printer to outside or print in a well ventilated area. That's all good until you want to maintain a high temp in the enclosure. Venting to outside will draw air into the enclosure, and that's not good for my ABS prints. So this is where i see this solution as helpful because it allows me to maintain a stable warm temp, while also, filtering particles that build up on my internals over time. If someone has an alternative solution please post.

[@shaitand69]

Right, and this problem is amplified when you realize the filaments with potentially harmful exhaust tend to be the same ones which need the high temp enclosure.

[@youtubehandlesux]

Vent after printing?

[@shaitand69]

@@youtubehandlesux Yeah, but I've yet to encounter a printer that doesn't leak. If you kick on an ABS print your house will reak within 30mins. The recirculating filter option here solves that. It wouldn't hurt to vent to outside before opening the door though.

[@memory_null]

Just run the vent fan at very low speed during printing. Just enough to maintain negative pressure in the print chamber so no VOCs can escape. After your print is done, you can crank it up.

[@B.A.Bassangler]

This is the concept I've been looking for! Why isn't replaceable carbon with separate pleated (furnace) filters a 'thing' for diode lasers? Even a DIY BOFA 350 kit is too expensive for casual and side hustle startup $. I'm able to vent outside, so not as worried about smoke, mostly just stink. Thanks for any words of wisdom, and for the informative video.

[@halowizbox]

This is an absolute game changer! Thank you!!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Sure is!💪🏼

[@OutOfNameIdeas2]

I'm putting two car sized heppa filters on mine haha

[@hassosigbjoernson5738]

I wonder why 2 40mm fans have been used. The first section of the box (air intake) is already huge enough to complement one 80mm or even 120 mm PC fan that would be much quieter but moves a lot more air. The fans dont have to be laying in that chamber. A bigger 120 mm fan could also stand and intake air. Otherwise good comparison.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

4020 probably for space constraints in the x1c chamber, bigger fans are viable…there should be some mods on printables

[@BobFromCalifornia]

I can't seem to find what size magnets this uses

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Hey Bob, 4x2mm magnets

[@msteele999]

Building one this weekend - thank you!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Way to go!👌🏼

[@Hitstrekker]

Good jib thanks you for the detailed explanation and links

[@chartle1]

I was hoping you would show how the wiring was routed to the outside. I have mine completely build using 24 volts fans but at first glance I don't see any holes.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

if you have a X1C, you have a factory small hole in the bottom left corner of the printer. i have + and - cables going out from there. i used a T tap connector, to have only 2 cables instead of 4 leaving the bentobox. less mess, and you can place an external switch to decide when to turn on or off the filter

[@chartle1]

@3DPrintingForMoney ok that's what I was thinking but I'm not near the x1c. I have all the parts to run the wire.

[@chartle1]

@@3DPrintingForMoney Thanks and wanted to add this is the first video that even shows the filter installed in a printer.

[@who-v]

I actually found out that if you are printing on the X1 carbon once you slice the plate it prints properly no need to change any settings.

[@iQuacker712]

By putting the carbon section last before the air discharge port, aren’t you inviting carbon dust into the printer? If true, this suggests that the hepa filter should be last instead. Please comment on this. Update: A Google search turned up several articles from filter experts suggesting that the position of the HEPA and carbon in a filter stack would not materially change the filter effectiveness. They also offered that filter medium in a stack should go from coarse to fine. None of what I found addressed the dust from carbon. my conclusion is that I'm going to swap the order just for not having to deal with possible carbon dust getting into the printer. I also found several youtube videos showing people thoroughly rinsing the carbon pellets before loading them into a filter housing. At the start, the water looked pretty dark but eventually went clear. This all makes sense to me.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Good quality pellets have very low dust, if it is a concern you can always “dry-run” the filter out of the printer for a couple of hours to get rid of possible particles. Before putting a new load i always tap the pellet box on a paper towel to assess dust levels

[@iQuacker712]

@@3DPrintingForMoney thanks for the reply and your suggestion. But why would it not be best to put the particle filter last?

[@MegaVoltMeister]

It is common practice to place a HEPA filter before and after the carbon in an air filter. This can be seen in respirator cartridges.

[@bjondersson]

I think having the HEPA filter first and then carbon is better, because the HEPA filter will remove small particles and then carbon removes odors and such, that are actually smaller particles than the particles that the HEPA filter removes. Even if the spacing between the carbon in this design is larger than the HEPA filter, the carbon still removes smaller particles in the way that active carbon works, i.e. adsorption (yes, with a 'd', not absorption), so it is actually going from coarse to fine. If you'd put the carbon first, then maybe it would quicker get covered with larger particles that the HEPA filter filters which would reduce the carbon effectiveness. I wonder if a carbon filter sponge would work equally well, or even better, than the carbon chunks used here.

[@Mr19assassin74]

I reversed the fans and have it pull through the carbon first from the bottom.

[@deeply999]

in order to have a negative pressure in printer enclosure you need fresh air entry at a controlled point , One to not create a draft and two to maintain a fresh air to recycle with saturated enclosure air. Also vent to external sources not into a direct room. Even if "Filtered" it still has byproduct that passes through. Safety Third people

[@TheMugwump1]

I started making my comment above before yours and got distracted or I would've put it in response here :)

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

absolutely!

[@jessefurqueron5555]

We run negative pressure on our woodworking CNC enclosures and also on our VMC (running Renshape eg modeling board..urethane board is nasty stuff in the lungs). Pull is done via a Frankenstien’d 3hp 3 stage collector w a final output merv 15 filter. That aside, to the point of the above comment, our enclosures are fitted for 20x25 merv 10/12 (whichever is in stock) on the inlet air side. Don’t starve your vac pull. For the retentively inclined, anemometers are fun and you can find yourself chasing the Rabbit real fast 😏

[@JoJa015]

One of the problems is you need to keep the chamber temperature up with certain materials. Exhausting the warm air and pulling in fresh air will work against that unless you preheat the intake air. A recirculating design like the bento box is just recirculating the existing air already inside the chamber thus it stays constant.

[@jessefurqueron5555]

@@JoJa015 in addition to the CNC solution mentioned in my previous post, which does not vent outside; we do 3D printing as well. w our old resin printers (our first FDM, a MK4 arrives this Tuesday) we vented directly outside via an exhaust hood for years. We were literally talking a couple of hours ago about filtering when we setup the mini-farm chamber(s) in a few weeks. Note, we’re just doing PLA on the FDM for now, but, we want to filter the fumes and other little nasties from the resin printers that are coming. So we’re likely going w a multi-stage shop-built activated-carbon closed loop filter. Likely issue will be too much heat - the problem we encountered when we tried a similar approach w our old resin printers. Given we’re In Texas, too much heat (and humidity, we run dehumidifiers in our resin casting area) is what we face the majority of the year in our part of the state. Some type of room heat exchanger or other temp control solution might be needed to help maintain a proper print chamber temp. We’ll just have to see how it goes.

[@matthewjohnson3260]

Any pointers on how to connect to the X1-C PSU? This is (for me) an expensive printer and I'm anxious about screwing it up by experimenting with the power. I'm struggling to find videos on how to do this and as great as the BentoBox user guide is, all it gives me is "Internal power 01 - Using 4020/4028 24V fans and wire directly to the PSU of the printer.". This video shows the connection at 6:04 but I'm not clear how to tap into the PSU or what to use to do so.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

If not sure, i would avoid and route external cables to the bentobox

[@kmakris]

Hello, amazing invention, thanks for doing this. - I have been looking for carbon pellets and I cant find anything in the UK at the moment. I was hoping you might have any suggestions? The problem is up to now, any shop I found is abroad and you pay double the price just for the shipping. Thanks!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Thank you! Check the voron discord local to the UK, they may have direct contacts with reputable UK sellers.

[@crustycrustacean1980]

Aquarium shops!! Used extensively in tropical and marine fish aquariums.

[@Mr_Gadge]

Did you find some? Also in UK, is that right about aquarium shops??

[@leoenin]

Thanks for the video! Could you please explain how to wire it to the printer's power supply? Also, what material have you used for the shell (given the temperatures inside)? ABS?

[@erik3205]

Would it benefit to maybe put two of them in a printer or could that have a negative effect?

[@coylkoupourbinbarger2941]

what printer is printing the helmet at timestamp 2:35?

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Voron 2.4

[@thomasheisler]

Thank you for your video, great job

[@HSWBuilds]

Just what I’m looking for. Would you run an extractor fan also to keep ambient temp down and protect power supply from getting too hot? If so have you found a neat solution for this without creating a mess of wires? Also do you have a way to smartly control power to the hepa filter, perhaps temperature switch? Thanks again.

[@BANDAIist]

How do you run those power wires into the bambu lab closure from outside? Just bought one for my machine. Thanks!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

There are a couple of factory holes - small gauge wires fit perfectly

[@ChatGTA345]

Thank you! There's just so little coverage on this important topic! Btw, if I understood your correclty, you mentioned this solution reduced the fumes in a room with multiple printers, down to undetectable level. How did you measure the air quality, and did you use any external ventilation specifically for this room/printers?

[@dodgersfnshepard8673]

Where's the wall plug link?

[@who-v]

I’m a little confused shouldn’t the filters be placed carbon first then heap? But I’m guessing cause it’s a recirculating it doesn’t really matter.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Think of the filters like strainers. If you put the strainer with smaller mesh first, it will clog up with all the bigger particles. ;)

[@bjondersson]

@@3DPrintingForMoney Alveo3D that makes the carbon filter for the Prusa enclosure, among others, has the carbon filter first and then HEPA.

[@Mr19assassin74]

Reverse the fans.

[@jus4027]

Am I missing something, I've gone to the prusa files and downloaded them. However the inner carbon box seems to be missing along with the pellit shelfs, I take it you was supplied a complete kit with these already? Also the .3mf seems to be corrupt.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Hey there, the inner carbon box is in the CMAG_stl folder. Let me know if you find it. ;)

[@MountainManGuy]

@@3DPrintingForMoney The grill file is missing. You are supposed to print 4 grills but they are not there.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

I see them in the cmag file section. Instructions on page 6, plate 3 on how to do it. It is called “net infill x4.stl” media.printables.com/media/prints/272525/stls/5723835_3a6b2fbf-f839-490b-9eb4-fe4198437b20_80d2172a-c0ee-4039-b49b-852c72512e9e/thumbs/cover/180x180/png/net_infill-for-prusaslicer_preview.webp

[@MountainManGuy]

@@3DPrintingForMoney Ah, I should have checked the PDF first. There are settings you need to apply to get them to not be solid squares. Once I added the honeycomb infill and other various slicer settings they now show the proper grill holes. Thanks!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Here to help!

[@titanwu7556]

hi . can you tell me where can i find the toolhead at the 1:17 you use on voron . thanks

[@davidemoschini1597]

Amazing content from an amazing man🔥

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

😂 Thanks man!

[@unknownerorr2740]

Thanks for posting this!

[@deejaysoulution]

Thanks for the Info and Tutorial!

[@zior92]

Have you seen/ tried the new mars mate?

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Hey, did not, i usually wait at least 6mo before trying/changing equipment. There is a trend where first buyers are used as beta testers. :(

[@zior92]

Im waiting for reviews on that unit before buying a 3d printer, hopefully some will come soon@@3DPrintingForMoney

[@zeeshankhaliq9179]

Is there a link to the power adapter?

[@timothygilge9964]

Came here for this as well haha

[@arc5015]

If you do this with an enclosure and vent to the outside e.g. through a window, do you even need a filter at that point?

[@Jacksparrow4986]

Depends if you want to dump your trash into the public or not.

[@VV-om8vv]

If you vent to outdoors you are good to go.

[@joeking433]

@@Jacksparrow4986 LOL! What a dumb thing to say! It's not going to hurt anyone outside. WTF is wrong with your brain?

[@bjondersson]

I'm considering connecting my enclosure directly to the ventilation system to suck the air outside, and/or using a circulating system like the Bento box. One possible positive effect of the circulating system is that it will contain the warm air in the enclosure if you need it for the material you are printing. My printer is in a 16°C room, so if I ventilate outside during printing, it will mean it will draw in the cold air from the room into the enclosure, which I might want to avoid. Maybe the ideal would be to use both, so that when you need to contain the heat, you use the circulating filter and else ventilate outside with negative pressure.

[@driventomadness117]

​@@joeking433 how are you not harming anyone? Do you think the particles disappear?

[@LimbaZero]

Do you have any measurement results from room before and after filter installation?

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Odor for now. Looking to get a decent meter but they are $500 and up…Cheap ones aren’t accurate enough

[@LimbaZero]

I have cheaper meter that cost around 140e. I got this for my electronics hobby. I use some chemicals for cleaning flux off pcb and I wanted to see how long those fumes were staying on room. I live small apartment so my hobby area is also where I spend my time. This can show if room air quality level is ok for long term use. Range in this meter is not enough to do checking if you need personal protective equipment when you do short visit in room. Scale end where it was not recommended to be in same room over 1 months. TVOC range ended 9.9mg/m3. For long term exposure it should be under 1 mg/m3.

[@imacmill]

Is there any reason why I can't just buy activated carbon pellets from amazon? Many products there, mostly for fish tanks.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Most aren’t acid free, i would spend a little more and don’t worry about corrosion

[@imacmill]

@@3DPrintingForMoney OK, thank you.

[@Yavorh55]

How does this compare to the Voron Nevermore solution, which seems more compact?

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

The micro is more compact. There is a mini bentobox on printable from the designer that is comparable!

[@ChatGTA345]

@@3DPrintingForMoney since the micro/mini are more compact, do you anticipate this regular Bento box to be capturing even more? Or does everything depend on the quality of the seal, for the most part?

[@AbeSwavay]

Thank you man

[@1supertec]

hi when i drop the carbon filter nets on the build plate the just look like solid pieces even if i open the file in onshape it just still looks solid has anyone else experienced this or can you let me know what i might be getting wrong.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

You have to set top and bottom layers=0 ad use grid or honeycomb infill (30-50%) ;)

[@1supertec]

@@3DPrintingForMoney hi thanks for helping me with this, and no I didn't do any of that but I just tried it and now it looks great so thanks again for the help 👍

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

No worries, happy i could help a fellow 3d printer-er! 👌🏼

[@Cyber-qy1pq]

Thank you for the video sir

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Here to help printing smarter!👀

[@johnteslov5870]

Why print it with PETG and not PLA?

[@precisionleadthrowing4628]

Mechanical properties and PETG is more resistant to UV and much better if you want longevity

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

John, when printing ASA/ABS inside the x1c, it reaches 50C. Pla will degrade and might cause issues.

[@tgsparkyoriginal]

I’d really like to be able to turn on the chamber fan to 100% for a set time after I print ASA or ABS. I want to duct it from the back to the window but I can’t work out the gcode 😫

[@S3snaek]

You can put the printer in a fire resistant enclosure & vent that to your window.

[@mycinemax2653]

can this be used as chamber heating too?

[@GiovanniGiorgo]

It doesn’t heat anything

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

It circulates air, so it will increase the internal temp a little. but very little compared to a heating element

[@ovDarkness]

You can just add a PTC heating element.

[@brauschau]

Any experience with the noise of these 4020 fans? Is it comparable to the cooling fans that sit on the extruder of a 3D printer? I want to use the bento to vent my enclosure into the environment to prevent overheating inside but if I have a noisy fan outside I could leave the enclosure open from the beginning.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Noise level with listed 4020 is way lower than regular fans, almost “silent”. In my print shop without looking at the on/off switch i can’t tell if they are on or off

[@markb3866]

I got it for abs ASA. It hardly does anything.

[@ptitbass]

So best way still to exhaust outside?

[@jonathanquinlan3811]

howsthis handle resin fumes etc?

[@DiomedesDominguez]

I prefer the 5015 version

[@nbafsdvg]

Does this fit a k1!

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Good question..i would mock up some cardboard and see if the bed moves freely. I don’t own any of the k1 series

[@MrChancebozey]

The Bambu Labs X1C has a carbon filter in it. All you have to do is install a Hepa Filter to the outside of the fan assisted outlet. There are several models for this on Printables.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

It absolutely does! but it is single pass..internal recirculating filters grants higher adsorption rates. Plus abs/asa etc benefit a lot from a hot chamber and printing with exhausting with fan on decreases internal chamber temperatures. Can be turned on only when print has finished but then cooling factor for these materials isn’t optimal. They *need* to be brought to room temperature gently to retain part strength

[@joeking433]

This is the reason I only print with PLA. Even then I have an air monitor and my VOC's are in the middle range which is not good. I print in a basement with no ventilation at all. I have went to PLA plus, and that might be the cause of the higher VOC's. I'm looking for good ventilation ideas.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

I largely PLA, my machines are inside enclosures with a carbon air filter and the room has two air purifiers. I'm always looking for ways to improve the safety side. Each enclosure also has fire safety devices (Wham Bam - The Cloud). If I do need to use PETG or other materials, I have an expensive BOFA 3D Printer Filtration system I plug in. Print safe!

[@OutOfNameIdeas2]

Good. Pla is still plastic after all and releases its own harmful stuff.

[@OfficialDeathScythe]

Are we gonna look back one day and wonder why everyone was so cool with venting those fumes and microplastics out into the world. Isn't that like dumping our trash in the ocean cuz we don't live in the ocean lmao

[@charleylavin]

Nevermore StealthMax is arguably a better solution

[@MrTree421]

In that case would you mind arguing that ? Because I am looking at the different filter designs out there and for me it is almost impossible to judge which system has what benefits and drawbacks. Because no one ever does a good comparison.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Better doesn’t always mean doable. Max or S don’t fit in the bambulab frame

[@user-jt5vm3mi1w]

Open window

[@SirasPK]

This is totally useless and you should be ashamed of yourself for omitting this importnat information .HEPA only filters dust, if you want to filter VOC and other exhaust gases you need to implement a carbon filter. The purpose of your video is just to send out your affiliate links and earn money this way, i hope the 10 dollars you earned was totally worth it. *

[@o-manthehuman7867]

Look at the box, it literally says carbon on it. Not only does it have an integrated activated carbon filter, the Bambu printers it's advertised for already have carbon filters in addition to whatever the bento can do.

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

I suppose your comment was for another video..bentobox has carbon pellets. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@joffa5555]

I LOVED the video, told me everything i wanted to hear and CLEARLY showed the hepa filter after use, shame on you, sucked on too many fumes you dont know wtf your saying

[@DerClaudius]

What kind of hepa filters are you using and how do you know when to replace? I read somewhere you need merv 17 filters to clean the air completely of the stuff produced when 3d printing

[@3DPrintingForMoney]

Merv17 are hard to find in suitable dimensions. The hepa filters linked are for “dust scrubbing” and bigger particles, the adsorption is taken care by the activated carbon pellets. Depending on material printed, 100-300h, the lesser for the technical materials. I made an experiment going over the 300h rule with a green asa and the hepa had a slight green tone after that time frame..