Best Grow Room Conditions to maximise growth and yield | Light (PAR), Temperature, Humidity and Air

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Maximise your growth rate and yield by optimising your grow room conditions such as Light intensity, Temperature, Humidity and CO2 levels
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[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, Shane here. Thanks for watching, Please hit the like button and subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@MIGROLIGHT?sub_confirmation=1 Buy my Grow Lights here: migrolight.com/ Follow us on: Instagram:instagram.com/migrolight/ Facebook: facebook.com/MIGROLIGHT/ TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@migrolight

[@bminish]

One thing I'd add, at lower humidity the plants will take up (& transpire) more water, if you are fertigating (adding nutes with the waterings) then the plants are also uptaking more nutrients as they cycle though the water & you may need to reduce feeding strength to avoid nutrient burn when you are growing at reduced humidity (RH below ~ 50% )

[@freedompioneer4311]

True true!!

[@hbhb8173]

Always keep track of your pressure vapor deficit

[@freedompioneer4311]

@@hbhb8173 how does one even do that

[@BotAimAJ]

@@freedompioneer4311 it’s literally the same as RH essentially

[@freedompioneer4311]

@@BotAimAJ Interesting

[@timm_3r]

Protip: Don't use tap water in a humidifier if it doesn't have a filter. There's nothing like finding your grow space covered in a nice coat of powdered calcium.

[@brte728]

Thanks for the tip. I Will definitely note that down✏🗒✅

[@vicaras1]

Been there.

[@timm_3r]

it depends on how your tap water is treated. Do they use chlorine or chloramine? If it's over 200 ppm you want to filter it before adding nutes.

[@todgerx]

Ahh I was wondering what that shit was.. Thanks.. 👍

[@marcosrotllan]

Wow you have a non ultrasonic humidifier

[@anthonyarkadia9760]

I use to grow HPS only, no more however. I picked up this light and it is everything it says it is and more! My yeilds are bigger, buds are very tight, and trichromes look like frosting on the buds.. I purchased the timer as well, it all works like a charm. I use full power for 3 hours, them drop to 75% for 10 hours, then 50% for 3, them the light shuts of them I switch to my moonlight led for 8 hours... I have never seen my plants grow this fast, and this healthy.. Truly one amazing LED..

[@simongreenthumb6376]

Why full power only 3 hrs please?

[@tonyregalado7281]

​@@simongreenthumb6376it simulates mother nature- hottest part of the day.

[@gmanlimitedanderson-0drisc211]

I've been growing for some years but I find myself straying from the basics sometimes and videos like this really help me just go back to how I usually do things I find your videos really useful I also would like to mention the senelux se 4000 I bought it but I had it boxed away but for a budget price light I found it amazing compared to the hps lights I used to use I've only used it during veg but the difference is amazing thicker stems and much bushier than I usually get from HP's also the nodes are much closer together because of the climate I'm in I do used HP's during flower with led just to help increase the temperature because I find the heater uses almost as much electric. Thanks 👍

[@bakedveal2624]

For sure, I used to use a 400w HPS along with LED in winter time because it heat the house well and was way cheaper to run than my electric baseboard heaters.

[@jerrybowen2869]

Great video! One question and/or comment. I read years ago, and I got incredible results by following what I read, that keeping the grow room temperature as low as 68° is the best way to keep all of the extremely volatile terpenes accumulating on the buds and not taking flight. My hydroponic plants didn't smell much below 70 ° but the smell was impossible to contain at 75°, as quality decreased. I think a lot of commercial weed is grown for maximum yield and not for maximum terpene content.

[@frago1969]

Thank you , for advice i will keep my grow at 20 now that its at the flowering stage.

[@herbertwerner2287]

I would worry that 70 F is too cold to promote good flower formation in the most critical time. I agree that the terps are much lower at 70F but that's a bit cold for plant growth. I think 75 F is a nice medium temp not to hot and not too cold. Even then I would want to run just a bit warmer for a while just to make sure the plant has the warmth it needs to reach the size I'm looking for the first few weeks of flower.. then gradually decrease the temps.

[@Impaled_Onion-thatsmine]

Weed grows in Afghanistan without insane heat and no water.. your making this a business to make silly product co2 don't need that

[@user-rh2gl8ot8q]

Hey Shane Your tip about covering the soil, I mulch with bark chips between veg and flower and find works really well. I do everything to reduce evaporation, at this point because it's no longer helpful. I also put my fabric pots in buckets, which reduces evaporation and allows me to switch to watering from the bottom up which also helps. Bluetooth hygrometer/thermometers of amazon helped me get to grips with this. Being able to see your readings as chart is so helpful. They'd be worthy of a video just so more people started using them. Thanks again, I mine your channel & DrMJ for info and always find the light. C-weed

[@raineman1118]

Id be carefully with mulch, it can raise the ph.

[@dertythegrower]

Big respect as always MiGro. The channel of yours, and another big grow channel have gone from 5000 to 50,000 in literally 1 year of educational video. Keep up the great work, and professionalism.

[@dertythegrower]

VPD charts found on any image search, is key, to dialing in a grow room after you get the basics down. That and the 1200 ppm will really boost you to better yield, if your pH and EC levels are correct for your growth.

[@HAPPYHERBS1]

Pulse grow gave some very nice charts.

[@thomasrogers7614]

Very I’m important to know VPD charts are variable. Make sure your is applicable to your 💡 source.

[@JeagerTv]

@@thomasrogers7614 just get an LED already lol

[@vinchenzo678]

Struggling making change from HPS 2LED. keep getting hermie. I don't hve a light meter. But I'm running a scorpian Diab on 590 Watts with little room at canopy heights. Anyone else Hving probs with LED

[@zumbaladin]

Very good summary, and VPD is key to an optimum yield. As Shane says, the taller the plants the more humidity you'll need and therefore the more fans you'll have to put in the grow room as ventilation is paramount to avoid bud rot. Icmag forum has a very good thread by a very experienced grower named DJM if you are curious about that VPD and high humidity management.

[@AnnhilateTheNihilist]

Hey mate. What’s the forum dude?

[@Hunter-yc2cp]

I spray all my crops with a 20 litre applicator, once per 2 weeks, which is 0.25% hydrogen peroxide and it 100% kills all mold, doesn't harm them and has no effect on the finish.

[@chadwickalexanderjr1758]

​@@AnnhilateTheNihilist he just told you bud. Icmag.

[@stevoc123]

Brilliantly done. Clear, clean and simple to understand. Thank you

[@BoardsportsGroup]

Love your vids but would love to see more with Migro range and Migrow lights in various tents...They're beautiful impressive lights.

[@brandonmulrooney3771]

Your videos have helped me an immense amount. Love the content man, thank you for all that you do.

[@MrM0saic]

I could listen to this guy talk all night - this is my husband’s account but lovely accent it reminds me of my grandma who was as “Irish as Paddy’s a pig”

[@constantgardener1875]

Excellent video Shane when you can simplify the complex like that it becomes philosophy. Love from HPS land IRL

you're the best growing teacher to me 👍 Since working with fluence led 's everything got complicated, but your lessons are a great helping hand. 💯👋 Also i do like your serious appearance a lot. Thanks a lot for a better understanding what I am doing. 🤗

[@MrJoecool9999]

You learn a lot from Shane - I have a 4 x 4 tent with CO2 control with a RAM controller and have it at 1200 ppm when flowering - had thrown away a load of cash on airbomz and it was useless - I'm lucky enough I don't have to worry about smell so only have extraction when lights off to get co2 back to background level - I have a humidity controller but had to stop using it because but it would wreck the compressor in my dehumidifier so I just use a monitor and adjust the control on the dehumidifier itself to adjust - main problem I have to drive 6 hrs to get 3 co2 cylinders filled 😥🤣 but at least I get 2 grows out of that...! Good luck anyway bud....! 😎👍

[@OddBonsai]

So much useful information in this video! Now to find a way to put all this to good use. Thanks, especially for presenting everything in such an easy to understand form.

[@420somewhereG]

Support from Scotland ✊🏻🇮🇪

[@HAPPYHERBS1]

🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿💚

[@laurencefalconer5242]

As always awesome Shane. Big thanks. How about a video about average LED % adjustment through the growth cycle through to bloom to maximize rates with a 600 watt led fixture if you get my drift IE bloom obviously 100% but what about seedling is it 25% etc.

[@allandehn]

Excellent idea - I'd like to see this too 👍 Maybe also discuss the relationship between light distance to the pkant and light intensity.

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Good idea, thanks. I will put it on the list👍

[@KapRowMeat]

lumatek recommends for the 465/600w fixtures to go 50% for veg 75% early bloom and 100% late bloom.

[@ShuhDonk]

I could be wrong but I believe plants grow mostly at night (lights off).

[@tristonherrera7144]

The plant has no idea what time it is lol. You literally create it’s environment

[@ShuhDonk]

@@tristonherrera7144 The plants react to day and night cycles and they do grow more during the dark periods.

[@cvgodd1432]

It’s true. I do 14 and 10 some days and I see them grow much faster than 16 and 8

[@deleqtronica8733]

​@@tristonherrera7144 plants can anticipate night time, so they can tell what time it is. Watch any time-lapse, plants will stretch before lights turn off for night time.

[@bruzza3031]

Plants enjoy anywhere between 68 and 77°. When they start flowering at the end put them down to 73 they will get bigger and more potent hydroponics water must be 65 to 68°, use an empty 12 oz bottle put it in the freezer if you have to keep it at that temperature

[@dmu9736]

If you wrote "A Guide To Growlights For Dummies" I would certainly buy it. When you explain all this it starts making sense but for those new to growing with grow lights, this type of information may as well be Greek. My goal is to grow my food in the winter in my basement so that I don't have to heat a greenhouse or worry about snow load. Much gratitude for your advice and education with respect for your ability to teach others and your willingness to share what you know. I see your lights are on sale and am working on a budget as it seems like I will need quite a few to grow enough for two people assuming that if one can grow a plant to the flowering stage using LEDs, I could potentially grow vegetables or at least root vegetables this way. Still doing the math.

[@kendalesmith8178]

I'm flowering now in a 9x4 and ha humidity is on 73% and 25c n they are n flowering ..so these are good conditions...I'm running a mars hydro fce-4800 &a tsl-2000 n mi tent.

[@twentytwo138]

I think lower humidity would be better, especially near the end when the buds are fattest. Mold grows above 65%, in the center of the buds the humidity is higher. So i would go 40-50% humidity.

[@madushanrupasinghe652]

Wish everyone have the chance to take a stepback. World will be Beautiful! ❤️

[@TroyWatsonYEG]

Great video Shane. The only thing I disagree with is that "Plants don't grow at night" . Yeah they do. But super minor detail.

[@ronmix39]

No light, no synthesis.

[@TroyWatsonYEG]

@@ronmix39 The plant will store some of the energy and use it at night. A lot of growth happens in the dark cycle.

[@deleqtronica8733]

​@@ronmix39photosynthesis means the process of converting light into sugars, plants have stored sugars in their roots, you don't need photosynthesis to occur the exact moment it grows.

[@NOT_SURE..]

Im going to need a bigger room, ive got 4 plants and ive never had much luck but this year after watching some vids,(and especially after lowering my ph, adding coco coir to soil and watering LESS ive got some monsters , i also made the mistake of putting seedlings into tiny pots till they took off but they never took off in tiny pots , once i put them into their final container they went crazy.

[@brettmoore3194]

I like a enclosed higher pressure rooms 2.5atm. Co2 around 3300ppm because the increased atmospheric pressure venting will happen once every three days. 81f 45% humidity day, 72f 60% at night for vegetative. Straight red,orange and yellow leds with multiple smaller metal halide for uv exposure .

[@twentytwo138]

Are you using the metal halide only as an UV supplement? That's a lot of wattage just for UV, unless you also need more light power I suggest use fluorescent UV bulbs, like reptile lights, they are just around 20,30 or 50 watts and they are more effective. Both UVB and UVA wavelengths. There are also specific UV grow lights, a bit more expensive though. Reptile lights are very useful and cheap.

[@timpage5021]

LEDs are becoming so efficient. I had my biggest yield to date useing LEDs. I used the SP3000 in a 3×5 with 3 photos and hit 2.15 GPW. 645 grams dry. Only useing 300 watts. Thats around 20 watts per square foot. Bout to harvest the 4×4 useing the FC4800 and looks to be its gonna be about the same GPW. 30 watts per square foot. Crazy efficient thst I vegged the entire 4×4 at 50% 240 watts. Bumped it to 75% at flip. Week 3 90% and week 5 100%. For environmental conditions. I use a fan in the window to bring in fresh air from outside into the lung room. The exhaust fan brings in fresh air through bottom vents with a passive system. Chasing VPD is absolutely not necessary. Shane is spot on.

[@Sankichup]

What strain?

[@timdarmetko4039]

one of the best channels on youtube for sure ! thanks for what you do !

[@halflife82]

Amazing video as always Shane! Only question I have is, you listed 40-55% as being the optimal RH during veg. in your graph. But according to your VPD chart that’s way out of line. It should be 70-80% RH during veg. Other than that, all values, ranges and talking points I double checked and were spot on! :)

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Thanks for pointing that out, the 40-55% be for flowering.

[@herbertwerner2287]

I would never run humidity above 50 % in flower that opens the door to molds and other issues.

[@austyndesotell6012]

This is one of the most interesting things I’ve ever seen on KZbin, thank you so much for you knowledge G stay lit 🔥

[@pinkyxerox]

im using elevated co2 in a basement outside of the house. its not a closed system but it takes only a bit cold air from outside to climate, works great

[@Matt85USA]

Great info. Thanks...I just hung my grow300 in my 2x4. And I just put in a order for the SpotOn par meter. This dude super smart and that's why I buy from migro.

[@manobrisa8050]

O segredo é a manipulação adequada do fotoperíodo. Induzindo um dia com mais de 24 horas na floração, assim gera uma eficácia de mais 35 a 40% na produção do grow. Pode confiar! Trata-se do dia de 33 horas e 36 minutos. A quantidade de horas de luz tem que ser de 21h36m por dia, com 12 horas de escuro, totalizando as 33h36m. Isso faz com que em uma semana normal de 7 dias, no grow se passem só 5 dias. As plantas levarão mais tempo para ficarem prontas, pois 60 dias de floração continuam sendo 60 dias, só que agora com 33h36m e não 24h. Também há um pouco a mais de consumo de luz elétrica, porém o ganho de produção compensa.

[@tc3666]

This is what has driven me crazy, at 86f vpd chart says it should be about 70% humidity but I've read keep humidity during veg should be between 45 to 55%, your graph says 50% humidity during veg. Many other sites say keep humidity between 45 to 55% humidity during veg but that corresponds to a room temp of 68F. on a vpd chart. I run my tent at 78F and it stays on it's own around 55 to 60H.

[@royrobles6555]

I use 1380 watts of led " 6 maxsisun mf2000 ".....2000 watts of hps and 1260 watts of cmh....for a total of 4640 watts over a 28 square foot garden...

[@officialCrypto]

The most important Shane! medium: 50%vermiculite+50%peat :)

[@camz1039]

Love the video Shane! It has a very high end production feel.

[@joeborovina4769]

Thank you Professor ...

[@bobcprimus]

Excellent information as always Shane, apart from using an upside down temperature VPD graph @10:29, this is a very useful video.

[@mikest.gelais8555]

I have to say you are awesome I really like all the knowledge you pass on for free thank you you rock, shout out from New Hampshire USA

[@RRRR-wg1oe]

Been watching for a while, realised I wasn’t subbed. Thanks for you efforts!

[@chroniccare409]

Migro send me a display to run a experiment on my channel. I know I’m no super power on social media but why don’t you guys give the little guys a chance to try out your products so we can evaluate them?

[@RetroBerner]

I'd think that Sativa strains would like more humidity since they come from closer to the equator while Indicas can tolerate dry air much better since they come from a drier climate to begin with. I have no scientific basis for this, just kinda what makes sense in my head. I like growing Afghani based strains and have never even bothered to increase the RH. It usually stays in the 50-60% range in my grow room.

[@kwartelhendrickson6960]

From taking classes your spot on.

[@GeofryMasters]

For the most part as long as your temps and vapor pressure deficit are in check you can bang out some healthy plants regardless of the cultivar

[@jramz2037]

Wouldn't it be more of a hot, dry, less humid heat near the equator?

[@RetroBerner]

@@jramz2037 Nah, that's where the jungles are

[@rpm3320]

Yes,butt 99%strains are hybrid

[@johnsmith-qu9is]

you should do a video of a fully controlled grow compared to a non controlled grow to see how much extra you really get and is it worth the extra cost, i am guessing its not worth the cost. and if you use the same strains and the same lighting in both grows im guessing you will not get more than a couple ounces extra unless your using CO2 then you might get around 4 oz's is my guess. todays tip free cloning jel, buy an aloe plant and use the jell in the leaves as cloning jell and you will never lose a clone again. every time you need jell just cut off a little part of a leaf and it will heal itself. then use the jell in the cut portion. roll your stalk in it put into machine. within 5 days they will be ready for dirt sometimes 3 days.

[@warrendrew1664]

roll the cut part ?..do you cut the stem half way off too..vertical,not horizontal ? Put into dirt?

[@dondappapumpumslappa8051]

You dont think having a fully controlled environment would make any difference?

[@victorsupreme214]

This information will really help my hybrid elite genetics clone-only indoor stealth Tomato grow-op thrive.

[@dertythegrower]

Cropsteering technology is going to make this even more awesome. KZbin is erasing comments, as usual when you prove innovation and truth.

[@dertythegrower]

I guess I cannot bring up certain names or topics, but there is datalogging now for all this using a few brand of sensors (which I will not name but its coming out soon). The best yet is datalogging for your EC for your feedings from a company and innovative grower on youtube who I follow. You will see not only tent air factors being datalogged, but EC and feeding of your entire grow, so you can literally mimic another grower using this new technology about to become mainstream.

[@bmwocanada3989]

You'll help many growers with this helpful and very useful information. May you continue to share your knowledge with others.

[@AztecPyramid]

Very smooth and informative flow of knowledge. I had my lights too high by following manufacturer recommendation. Now I know I need to lower my light level due to light stress. Thank you.

[@teresaoconnell4790]

I have been watering my plants at night when the lights are off to avoid the high humidity. Watering in the morning and then turning on the lights was causing a steam bath.

[@cvgodd1432]

This will cause mold. You don’t want your plant moist without a way of drying slowly.

[@santiagoalonso8169]

Thank you very much for the knowledge, mister, you don't know how much I appreciate your videos. I will be a successful grower one day and I'll thank you for that as well. I send you a big hug, man, hope you are doing great

[@yourfuneral]

Thx for the clean, detailed video. On point, no frills. Vast knowledge condensed for the unknowing and lazy. I like

[@oshposh6998]

Kept it simple to the point, explained so clearly thank you!

[@chris432t6]

I agree. One of his best.

[@niklasgmh8110]

His vids generell quality always 10/10

[@johnroehsler6440]

Simple and to the point. My biggest bud did I just harvested yesterday had some bud rot right in the center of the biggest Cola so I cut it out I think I'm going to be okay

[@johnbaker5565]

Thanks Shane. It seems the LEDs are moving in the desired direction, but gas guzzler accessories when electricity prices will double in the next 12 months may be an unaffordable luxury to the personal grower who has to suck it up. Seeds that companies claim are for cold and very cold climates, may grow faster than a warm climate plant in winter when temps are well outside the range you quoted. In northern Europe except periods in summer, humidity is easily controlled by leaving the tent opening either a lot or just enough to let fresh air in. If there is moisture of any kind on the inside of the tent, then it's too humid and a wider opening is required. It may be the case that bud rot is more common on photo periods than autos. it is likely that not only are the light off for 12 hours, but many will also reduce fan use, and autos run 24/7 and move through their cycle rapidly, which appears to minimise bud rot.

[@twentytwo138]

Why do you think electricity price will double in the next 12 months?

[@johnbaker5565]

@@twentytwo138 Because the massive increase in wholesale energy prices will be passed on to the consumer. 30% increase in October, with another minimum 30% in April 2022

[@KapRowMeat]

@@johnbaker5565 energy political power play at the moment is happening in europe, prices will not stay high for long, i hope. makes no sense to have new power pipelines just to get more expensive "power"

[@Alexandros_Patsialidis]

VERY helpful video, mate. Thanks so much!!!

[@chrisrussell5498]

Thanks for the vid. Learnt a lot. Just germination of Mimosa shot looking forward to sitting back relax like✌️

[@jackhand4073]

Nice shorts man. Thanks for another great video.

[@shoestringfarm]

Very informative, love the charts and graphs. Well delivered also.

[@richardlbn1]

Great stuff, as always. Thanks Shane. You da man.

[@nomenclator4339]

Thank you so much for all the hard work put on this video !!

[@mannyfreshbuds]

You do a excellent job on explaining the the details great video thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@bekkenslain]

You talked about covering the pots to reduce the humidity in the space due to evaporation. What are you talking about exactly? Like a fully inclosed plastic lid with a hole cut for the stalk or some sort of fabric?

[@MikeParentLeap]

You slayed all the Environmental“Wives Tales”. 👏👏👏

[@topnotch5andy727]

Really well explained a brilliant bloke and company thanks shane

[@Wesmancan]

Different strands like different environments. You environmental conditions depend on where you live. Find a strand that’s works for your environment. It can be done.

[@briceworks3347]

Amazing video! Your channel has such great content. Greatly appreciated 👍🏼

[@Michael-s2p3p]

Great video, again! I’m electing to do a CO2 grow because I’m limited to the number of plants I can have. Expanding my grow space would be illegal. I want high yields and big plants.

[@Big_ol_bass]

F a plant count

[@Michael-s2p3p]

@@Big_ol_bass F the plant count he says to the judge nervously…

[@rebirthofthecool5619]

I cant find anyone talking about where the air is being drawn from and to. Regarding hot and cold climates and different seasons. How to prevent rapid temp fluctuations from where you draw the air from. Is this not an issue to be talked about? People using hps in winter or no need?

[@austintexas3886]

Hi, names Austin, I’m looking at my plants closely everyday after work and I’ve pulled out 4 plants today and two a couple days ago because I spotted herme and male parts. I think that I might need a second opinion of these very early signs during week 2 of pre flower. From seed to current day they are 6 weeks and on 12/12 with no light leaks. I just put 2 into foam board under the pots/trays to avoid the cold from coming up into the pots. I know I’m jumping all over with this comment but I would love any info on the ventilation as well. Right now I have a 4x4x8 foot tent in flower and I have one exhaust blower directing the air outside and only have the bottom vent strip open. The humidity has been fluctuating from 50-60 % air temp is between 70-85… thanks for reading my message

[@RockAndRollFirebird]

Fantastic summary! Thank you for such greatly composed content... 👍

[@bobthe_gardener4928]

if humidity outside and humidity inside the grow room are both high a dehumidifier would be necessary to keep the grow space from becoming a target for pests and disease.

[@exshenanigan2333]

3:35 interesting. So it’s better to keep the temp at 86 F even at 500 PPFD rather than having 1000 PPFD at a lower temperature below 77 F. (1000 PPFD at 86 F still being the optimal). So heat your tent up if below 80, before adding more lights and CO2?

[@canadianneo-frontiersmen6165]

Thanks for the share! Love your show Shane! Great knowledge.

[@Dylan-xh3uy]

Great information thank you very much! on my first grow here I'm going to put this new found knowledge to work!!

[@DarknessYT2010]

great work mate love your content . will be getting one of your lights shortly . keep up the great work.

[@GaraGambini]

Just remember, especially you newbies…..don’t get caught up too much in the maths or you just might lose that green thumb!!!

[@MattGarver]

Sound reasoning and great advice Shane. Thanks for putting this reference video together.

[@K_Nasty]

The vpd chart you showed was only for early vegitative growth. There are better charts that show the vpd at different stages of the plants life.

[@cletewhite6497]

Really appreciate your knowledge and sharing it

[@mrorangecookie1430]

If you want a good light go for the lumatek pro 600w i have 2 and they have grown some of the best plants

[@vurtch]

I really enjoy learning from you . Thank you !

[@vinnyparente9220]

Once again Simple straightforward breakdown 👏👏👌

[@redshedllc9054]

Can you do a par test on the slim 650s by optic led ? Thank you keep the videos coming I really like them they’re good and always really detailed, you always cover everything about everything with what you’re covering what light fixture

[@express375]

this will be my bible, thanks

[@ogzeno9876]

thank you for the great information 😀 keep it up and thank you for all the amazing videos

[@andycallaway9901]

I learn so much from your video's!!

[@kevinw5701]

can you do a deep dive into this? PAR VPD RH and even maybe crop steering?

[@BR-vd2ux]

Thanks Shane, very well put together video 👌

[@happyday.mjohnson]

Thank you for this excellent video. I'm trying to "dial in" my grow room and your info is very helpful. What sources of info are you using to make your recommendations? also, it seems you assume air movement (fans) but only discuss peripherally. Should air movement be considered one of the key environmental factors (for indoor grow)?

[@David-we3sb]

This is the information I received from Dr. Bugbee's videos: Foliar environment (above ground): Light: -(1000 umol photons / (m2 * s)) * (3600s / h) = (3.6 moles / (m2 * hour) -DLI = moles / (m2 * day) - PPFD * .0036 = moles / m2 * hour -60 DLI for full sun summer day. Cannabis can grow fine around 30 DLI. -64.8 DLI is 1500 PPFD for 12 hrs (near maximum) -43.2 DLI is 1000 PPFD for 12 hrs (3.6 moles / (m2 * hour) -30.0 DLI is 0694 PPFD for 12 hrs -30.0 DLI is 0462 PPFD for 18 hrs -Vegetative stage: 18-24 hrs/day -Flowering stage: 12 hrs/day -Plants increase 30-100% once flowering stage begins (use this to calculate making use of space). Temp*: -77-86° F Humidity*: -40-70% -Plant releases H2O into air. Wind*: -1 m/s. If leaves are moving slightly, that's good airflow. CO2*: -400ppm, which is adequate. -Plant absorbs CO2 from air. *Ventilation regulates this Root Zone environment (below ground): Temp: -77-86° F Nutrients: - N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium) - 20-10-20 - .6g per L - 1.3 EC reading in water runoff (electro conductivity meter) Oxygen: -Keep soil fluffy. Water: -Balance PH Soil Media: -50% Peat -50% Vermiculite (or Perlite, shredded wood, coco coir) -Dolomitic lime, 40g per cubic foot -Gypsum (CaSO4, Calcium Sulfate), 10g per cubic foot -3.5 pH Peat -> 4.5 pH with Vermiculite -> 5.5 pH with Dolomitic Lime (40g/cubic ft)

[@happyday.mjohnson]

@@David-we3sb Thank you! I will have to watch Dr. Bugbee's videos.

[@Shabbymannen]

Margret I once (like 20 years ago) saw a pot plant that was about a foot high, but it had a trunk (can't call it a stem) that was about three inches thick at the base, because the guy trimmed the plant a lot and absolutely blasted it with high speed fans 24/7. I don't think anyone needs that, but plants sure can take a lot of wind and will develop accordingly. Just don't blast cuttings you are trying to root with fans.

[@c0smo263]

Having proper air flow is very important imo. It can even out hot pockets of air and even your humidity out giving you a truer reading. Also, exchanging stale air for fresh keeps co2 levels at a constant level. All of those grains of sand will add up at to a mountain come harvest time in my experience.

[@freedompioneer4311]

@@Shabbymannen hell yeah the more wind the bigger buds... experienced growers know this

[@diamondbrightxxx7531]

Damn, I am just growing my plant by sight and with love. It is growing though.

[@eugeniahobbs41]

Very informative Shane, thanks for your genius.

[@drkmtter7860]

Another amazing in depth video cheers again 😎

[@kittywampus]

Great videos. I just bought a grow 200 to replace an old LED fixture. I went with that over a Mars product because I'm going to need to pump a lot of moisture into the air and the Mars product scared me.

[@MrKrzys01]

Actually recent research shows cannabis continues to benefit past 2000 par, some strains more so than others but it is a promising sign for high intensity growing.

[@stephania8784]

Love everything that you do!!

[@HAPPYHERBS1]

Great info as usual Shane, appreciated 💚👌

[@Troy_Combs]

Where I live it's also cheaper on the hydro bill after 7:00 pm till like six am

[@BlindintheDark]

Much of this disagrees with Bigsbee so I'm a bit dubious. Also, oddly unaware of dehumidifiers as an option.

[@andrewkelly8806]

Extremely helpful as usual thanks for all you do