Best Way to Remove Broken Exhaust Manifold Studs?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Parts and Tools I recommend: Thread Chaser- amzn.to/2E5RLPN Lincoln Weldpak 140 Welder (very popular unit)- amzn.to/2KtLihr Best Welding Wire- amzn.to/2OZl9I9

[@martingonzalez6504]

Hi FTM, do you ever have a problem with a timing guide dowel broken? I'm having that problem right now and I don't know what to do, can you please give me an idea of what to do? I really appreciate you help.

[@martingonzalez6504]

Sorry, I forget to mention,07 expedition 5.4

[@JT-un7dc]

Hey there, do you use flux wire or non flux wire for this weld?

[@pospc2]

@@JT-un7dc I'm pretty sure he said flux core during the first few minutes. May want to rewatch again to verify.

[@pospc2]

I know what my method is going to be since i have a manifold leak on mine. Drive it till the rocker arm noise ruins my engine, ignore the manifold leak till that happens. Send the vehicle to the scrap yard. Drive one of my other vehicles till i find a japeneese replacement for my suv. Then buy a 4 runner or qx56 or similar and happily never own a ford again. None the less I thank you for showing this method and I am sure one day i will find it useful. Just because i am not a ford guy doesn't mean that i have any hate for anyone that is. I find ford to be difficult but i am more of a toyota/Lexus or Nissan/Infiniti kind of person. Btw if anyone wondered why I own a Ford but dislike working on them, my wife found it while she was in the hospital after having our child and liked it. Me being the nice husband i am, went and bought it and then the following day picked her and my child up in it. I bought it because she liked it.

[@venomx4093]

Welding is a good trade to know. I've been welding for 18 years for my current employer and I do it on the side at home. I taught my 13 year old son how to weld at the age of 9. Currently teaching my wife the trade as well. As far as your technique goes, whatever works, works. You're not building rockets with all of the red tape hoopla. Great job!

[@josephtavaglione5670]

Awsome tip and it works amazing. I did it alittle different every stud was stuck in the head. Welded nuts on the studs heated the studs with torch until cherry red and presto. They all came out and didnt have to drill 1. Also I did this on the truck. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the tip.

[@jerrybradshaw9879]

In the past I have used a similar process by first welding a heavy flat washer followed by the nut. Sometimes have better luck getting good penetration on stud by not having to weld in a hole. Sometimes welder wants to arc to side of nut rather than stud. If you encounter a problem,it's easier than having the nut twist off and having to clean out hole to begin the process again.

[@russ_vee_jr4199]

I used a Fender Washer welded to the Stud or Nub, then a Large Nut centered on the Washer and welded to the Washer. A Nut twice the diameter of the Stud allows for plenty of material to be welded to both the Stud/Nub and the Washer. A correctly sized Fender Washer will protect the head surface and provide good clearance to weld the nut to the Stud/Nub. The Large Nut allows for plenty of weld material to be added to the Washer and the material on top of it. I did six on one side a few years ago. Ford had driven the studs so deep into the head that the non-threaded fat section of the studs were actually grooved by the ALU opening.

[@tredog500r]

I struggled for 2 nights trying to get a nut to weld on but couldn’t. I got some big flat washers and did what you said. Got 3 out in about a total of 25 minutes. Thanks for posting this!

[@brianhoefer7148]

I recently removed a broken #6-32 tap from new aluminum, broke at about 1/2" deep, by tig welding a 3/16" tall spire with .045" tig filler rod, then took a 4" length of 3/32 tig rod and bent a half inch long 90deg at the end and welded it to the spire. Twisted right out. Smallest tap I have ever removed in my 53 years.

[@GAMESFORUSdotNET]

I know this is old, but I just posted a comment. Your method may have worked for my situation if I owned a tig welder. However read my comment and curious if this is what you ran into: I used a plasma cutter and bolt extractor and air hammer! My driver side is the most difficult stud to reach on the 2005 Ford F150 5.4. It was corroded inside the block, not flush. 1st method failed (welding). Even with my engine hoisted off the mounts a few inches, it was extremely difficult to try and reach this with my wire feed as the weld puddle would not stay inside because of the angle. 2nd method attempt failed. Used a right angle drill attachment to with a tungsten harden drill bit, so i could make a piolet hole for the bolt extractor. This bit broken inside and fused to the broken bolt. 3rd attempt was successful! Took the plasma cutter and very carefully burned a hole inside the broken drill bit until it was large enough to insert the bolt extractor. However, this proved to be difficult because i could not hit the extractor in with a hammer due to the lack of clearance. I took my small air hammer bit and drilled a bore hole that i could slip the extractor bolt into. This allowed me to hammer the extractor into the stud, and I was able to back out the broken stud! Note: if you plan on welding or using my method, i recommend using aluminum foil by 1st, covering those inside the manifolds' holes. 2nd i used an aluminum pie pan and drilled a hole and place over the studs to prevent pitting the block. I have a few photos to show each pain in the rear it took to remove these studs .

[@rodv46]

I used your technique today to remove 3 broken exhaust studs from a 3.4L Chevy V-6 and it worked perfectly. I'm very thankful for this video as I had exhausted (no pun intended) all the other options I've used in the past so I started looking around KZbin for other idea's and most were methods I had already tried until I happened upon yours. I was a little apprehensive at first but it worked so well it was like taking candy from a baby (never thought I would use that term in conjunction with removing broken studs). Anyway, thanks again for posting the video and sleep well tonight knowing you helped a fellow gearhead out of broken stud hell.

[@tapia79r4p]

I just used this method on my 2008 F250 V10 King Ranch. The center studs on both sides were hard to get and I broke easy outs inside of them, so I had to get my Mig welder out. One thing to keep in mind about welding on any vehicle, is to make sure your battery is disconnected so you don't fry and computer modules, systems, or radios. As a ground for welding, I just simply installed a new manifold stud back into the head and clamp on to it. Aluminum is a good conductor. I struggled, but did not have to raise the engine like Alldata stated

[@cgb1776]

Another outstanding video! The two rear studs rotted off my 2010 5.4l, and the two front studs snapped while trying to remove them. Drilling the rear studs and trying an extractor failed. All four studs were really stuck in the head and getting a drill up front was not going to happen. Using my mig welder to build up a nub on the studs then welding a nut on the stub got the job done on all four studs. The job is a pain the ass but the cost saving is huge. I was very reluctant to try welding as I figured I would really mess things up and have to replace the heads. All I can say is trust in your ability and go for it. Thank you so much for your videos, they are life savers!!!

[@greasee.monkey7224]

I've been using this method for years. So much more effective than a drill and stud extractor. I spend a fair amount if time cozied up to 5.4's, so anything to make life easier is appreciated & utilized.

[@hpds1145]

Thank you so much for this video and tip. I had known about and have welded nuts onto broken studs, but never had to deal with a stud broken sub-flush inside the head. It took me three tries to get it right - the third time I sanded the top of the broken stud, and built it up enough to get a nut on it, and welded the nut on it, and it came out. Save me a lot of time from drilling it out. I am replacing the exhaust manifolds on my 2002 F150, 4.6L, and all the studs except for one, had to have nuts welded onto them. The one that broke sub flush, broke after I welded a nut onto it. I would never have considered the fact that the weld would not stick to aluminum. Thanks again!

[@joesc641]

I've been using Lincoln/Miller stick and wire feed welders for over 40 years. Can't remember ever having a problem. Needed a new one for home use but didn't want to spend big bucks. Purchased a Harbor Freight and it works. I wouldn't recommend HF for shop use, but for a once in a while home welder it works just fine.

[@tommyweese5697]

We have a bunch of miller welders in my diesel shop, and I’ve been laughed at every time I’ve gotten out my dinky little titanium flux welder. But honestly everybody in here has stolen it for one thing or another on these smaller jobs and broken bolts. This welder has its place

[@600rrgraham]

Love that trick man. I’ve used t countless times and I’m now deemed the broken bolt guy at our shop. I like running mine on the hot side. Usually build a small nub up then burn the nut on afterwords

[@torrisrare5626]

Thank you. I just removed four broken bolts from a set of ls heads. Your method worked great!!!!

[@jeffreycanfora1091]

I can’t believe it! Big thumbs up! I’m working on that Ford 4.0 sohc and Makuloco... 10 stars bro! First walking me through the timing process, and while I’m in the gasket, carbon build up clean up process, and just finishing valve seal replacement... I figured I’d see about removing the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs so I can be completely done with this right side head. I couldn’t believe it when this video popped up in my ‘tool’ search. Frickin’ Perfect! I’m a union ironworker local 433, welder. Your welds passed this test lol all that matters right. Now I gotta see if I can get this to work for me. Big thumbs up on all videos I’ve need thus far. Thank you.

[@timcollard5690]

I guess I'm not to old to learn. I didn't know this procedure. Good job and Thanks

[@theadmiral5425]

I also use this method...Another tip is while the bolt is cooling down(not red) add a little bit of beeswax as close as you can to the threads. It'll draw right in and make it easier to get the bolt out without turning back and forth as much. Use caution as beeswax is flamable though!!!

[@billynicgorski1]

My Man!!!! I cant thank you enough for sharing this ... saved me a ton of time and money... Great Job .. All the best Billy

[@thearrow5793]

I was watching yours videos long times ago...your are great man and your are number one and I’m proud of you......thank you and god blessed you......keep going.....

[@kummerow391]

Dude!!!! I can't thank you enough for showing me this!!! I would buy you a cold beer right fucking now if you were here. You literly saved me hours and hours of work!! Thank you soooooo much!!!

[@MeadowsJames]

Thank you for posting this. There is a technique I use to keep from twisting off rusted bolts, nuts and studs. If I suspect a fastener is really stuck from it's appearance or it's refusal to turn with a reasonable force from a wrench, I first use a penetrating fluid. After that, I use a 3/8 drive air wrench or even a butterfly air wrench with Metrinch sockets if there is room, and the air pressure turned down at first. The rapid chattering has loosened many fasteners for me over the years, preventing further welding, drilling, using EZ Outs, re-threading or whatever. When there are no rubber seals, explosives or other fire hazards nearby, I heat the surrounding area if needed with a small torch, or a acetylene torch for big stuff, but not to the point of heating the stuck fastener itself because it will also expand. This expands the steel, aluminum or cast iron away from the stuck fastener. Although the expansion may be only one thousandth of a inch or less, it's enough to free it. But it's really aggravating when fasteners are literally rusted away or twisted off flush. Again, thanks for sharing this video.

[@andreblanchard9786]

Always easier to work on an engine that’s out of the vehicle. But none the less excellent advice to give out there to everybody. Kudos for taking the time to share!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Easier for demonstration purposes but when the engine is in the vehicle is is not too bad I do them all the time.

[@Chris-Fennimore]

Yep, I like this method for removing broken bolts/studs. Good tip. But instead of welding the nut onto the Bolt , I first weld on a washer. It is narrower, so it is a little easier to get the welding wire down to the broken bolt. Once the washer is welded on firmly, I weld a scrap nut onto the outside of the washer.

[@lukemartin7029]

Good idea.

[@weldingjunkie]

So you don’t weld right into the middle? What do you mean by outside the washer

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

@@weldingjunkie I've wondered that since he said this, but he has notifications off or didn't see it. I thought about his washer, but I couldn't imagine how it was helpful. I could see how the nut would weld with even less contact unless maybe it sat inside the bolt?

[@weldingjunkie]

DE Nichols yeah doesn’t make sense to me at all either. Just went the middle lol

[@glenblair4103]

@@weldingjunkie I believe by the "outside" of the washer, he means the side of the washer facing away from the engine...however, I could be wrong, it's happened before.

[@frankgrimes591]

Thanks for the work on my ecoboost F150! Cool to see it in the background at your gorgeous new shop.

[@isaacparsons6486]

This tip works everytime! Especially on aluminum heads

[@jimhendrix7776]

Shouldnt one be scared of melting the aluminum? Im very ignorant so honest question lol

[@WilliamGreenlee]

Wow look at how perfect the threads were on that bolt! I can’t believe these still break. Great video, keep up the good work.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah its the water and salt trapped behind the nut inside the manifold flange that does it.

[@bubba.watercraftj7269]

“Rust Jacking” is how I have referred to that scenario. The rust caused metal to expand and snapped fasteners off.

[@dirtyford633]

I'm lucky enough to weld fairly well, and TIG weld. I've used my welder so many times to extract studs/bolts I lost count. I think over half of my 7.3 exhaust studs required welding on a nut. Invaluable tool to have in your arsenal.

[@nickwilkowske8185]

This video and your video on removing broken studs was invaluable! Hope I can buy you a beer someday. You saved me a ton of $$

[@user-hf5cf9ie1u]

Not so easy when motor is in truck😢

[@MrJamminguitar]

Lol! Yep!!!

[@Vintageguy73]

Have you tried the broken bolt welding rods? They work great especially when the bolt is broken below the surface. Nice work!

[@JT-un7dc]

Never heard of them. Where can you purchase them? Meaning, what kinda store are they sold at.

[@amr-50]

The Best video on removing broken studs really thankful

[@dhh488]

South Main Auto Repair has a better one.

[@cpayne5]

I had never welded before, but I recently took a crack at this. My 4Runner had 7 (of 12) broken/stuck exhaust studs. I bought an Eastwood welder, loaded it with a spool of flux wire, practiced for about five minutes on some scrap metal, and then went to town on the exhaust studs. I wasted about 10 nuts on the first stud, but I eventually got it out. The second nut spun out on the first try. I have to buy some more nuts before I go after the remaining studs, but I feel that I'm on my way. In these comments, I read about people warning of welding coated steel, so what I did was soak deez nutz in some vinegar overnight. This dissolves the coating, leaving you with bare steel. Works well, though be warned that rust sets up in minutes, if you don't protect them (WD40 works well for this) after taking them out of the vinegar.

[@KudosBlaine]

Appreciate this video! Going to try this tomorrow...

[@misterfixit08402]

Very helpful and informative information brother, they are getting tighter and tighter with less and less room, right angle drill a must, so tired of drilling in almost impossible to reach areas, but after almost 20 years of trying different techniques this is definitely one of my favorite, thanks for the vids, keep up the good work and keep wrenching, nothing like diagnosing and fixing something nobody else can or will, you know everybody's a mechanic.

[@traintools585]

Thanks for the video. Have to change an exhaust manifold on my 01 F150 and now I'm not as worried about breaking off studs. Would have been worried that the heat would hurt the aluminum, but now I know better.

[@justinaulgur9812]

How did it go?

[@apachebill]

Man I appreciate this. I've got to remove a broken stud right behind the passenger turbo on a 15 F150 in the morning. Having to replace all the turbo coolant fittings. I'm no welder but I feel fairly confident I can do this. Then, maybe I can wrap this miserable job up.

[@ortiztony67]

Thank you very much and God bless you for the time you take to share this very helpful trick

[@garyr7027]

Nice trick, I'll remember this when i do my 97 f150. A few of em are nearly gone, look like rivites, so this method might be my only choice. It would be my guess, the heat from the weld is actually aiding in the stud removal process, so you get a two for one solution here.

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice job brother. You the man. Hope I don't have to do this on my 8.3 Cummins engine. I'm about to start on the exhaust manifold today lol.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nightmare!! Good luck buddy!

[@reecebrodersen4433]

Something so satisfying about seeing a brother pull a broken stuf

[@hooklinetinker9680]

Great tutorial, Brian... Thank you! Really hoping I don't break any studs when I tackle replacing the cracked driver-side exhaust manifold on my 2006 Mark LT. If I do I know this instructional video will be helpful.

[@derekstarkjr5128]

Ford T. Great Video. My 45 years taught me to put strip of duct tape down whole cylinder head,who cares if it melts ,then put a button of weld right on center of stud,build up if needed,then use needle vise grips,if that dont work ,then you have a shaft to slide nut over then weld nut as last attempt . Waist of wire good 1. I.M.O.

[@trappistachel]

Can you repeat this in English please?

[@1slipery42]

did both manifolds on 98 expedition 4.6. cut studs flush with manifold then removed. (I had access to air arc to cut in to pieces) then heated studs red not manifold twice allowing to cool in between, then used 3 jaws stud remover pushed against block to prevent angle twisting. All 16 came out easy 1-2 minutes each. Big thing is breaking rust bond by heating twice (expand /contract)

[@ceasar3696]

Great video! Thanks I have a broken bolt on my truck exhaust. I think I will try this first. Looks easier than drilling or extracting.

[@prmcollin]

Working mainly with wood for a long time, the adhesion strength of welding steel is so nice to deal with. It’s a miracle of science.

[@zackvahlkamp5044]

I weld a washer to the broken bolt first then weld a short bolt to the washer. Hit it with candle wax while it's still hot. Put a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer back and forth works them loose ever time. Great video.

[@zackvahlkamp5044]

@Josh Lindsay while the it's still hot the wax I'd drawn in between the broken bolt and the threads loosens it up. Give it a try.

[@GAMESFORUSdotNET]

I used a plasma cutter and bolt extractor and air hammer! My driver side is the most difficult stud to reach on the 2005 Ford F150 5.4. It was corroded inside the block, not flush. 1st method failed (welding). Even with my engine hoisted off the mounts a few inches, it was extremely difficult to try and reach this with my wire feed as the weld puddle would not stay inside because of the angle. 2nd method attempt failed. Used a right angle drill attachment to with a tungsten harden drill bit, so i could make a piolet hole for the bolt extractor. This bit broken inside and fused to the broken bolt. 3rd attempt was successful! Took the plasma cutter and very carefully burned a hole inside the broken drill bit until it was large enough to insert the bolt extractor. However, this proved to be difficult because i could not hit the extractor in with a hammer due to the lack of clearance. I took my small air hammer bit and drilled a bore hole that i could slip the extractor bolt into. This allowed me to hammer the extractor into the stud, and I was able to back out the broken stud! Note: if you plan on welding or using my method, i recommend using aluminum foil by 1st, covering those inside the manifolds' holes. 2nd i used an aluminum pie pan and drilled a hole and place over the studs to prevent pitting the block. I have a few photos to show each pain in the rear it took to remove these studs . Great video

[@petemoss9693]

Good job Brian - - -I have done this many times over - drilling then using a easy out ( extractor ) is not the way to go because the easy out tap will break off as you know your self by using them . Good video .

[@alexpuls8219]

I've had to do this a couple of times at my ford dealership for some of the techs. It works pretty well. Did it on a 2008 4.6L explorer and a 2016 transit with a 3.5 eco boost. Worked both times.

[@barrybebenek8691]

This vid is PERFECT for me. So glad You made this. I’m no welder either but have to do this on my hemi 5.7 (like everyone else). My question is: when I flux-core the nut on, do I need to remove the battery terminals or can I just leave them alone? Thanks. 🇨🇦

[@ericsandrin8123]

always remove cables while welding ANYWHERE on a vehicle...both cables is better...if a welding current can find its way to computer parts because of a bad ground..and there are lots of possibilities and tie the cables away from the posts so they cant find their way back there.....the damage can be anywhere you never imagined..even grounding the welding cables directly to the motor doesnt guarantee the battery will be safe

[@kevin173490]

Good video. One skill I don’t have yet is welding. On my bucket list.

[@markk3652]

Is there nothing you can't do?!! Fine job Brian, shop looks great, and sharp new uniform shirts!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nope it's just a welding jacket lol.

[@ultranitro437]

Great video! I just got ripped off from a shop who failed to remove one of the manifold bolts on my 2000 ford explorer 5.0. I need to get another small welder to try this method.

[@dothedew1600]

ill probably be the one guy here to get all the hates, but it took me many years to figure this out on my own. It is a great procedure, and I use it every time, but it's not valuing the techs that have spent many years to develop this method. I came from the school of hard knocks.

[@Mrdubomb]

Welding right to the broken stud works too, a local machine shop that does these regularly told me that the first two to three threads are always the ones that seize, if you grind down one eighth, they'll unwind every time.

[@izcoronel]

outstanding job for a novice more power to you man learn a lot from your channel

[@SIK9D1]

Just removed a broken stud out of my 2000 4.6L Thanks for the tips

[@steveham2427]

Thank you brain this tip saved me tons of work! God bless you!

[@brentgoodkey3067]

great tutorial got do just that on my bike stud is about quarter exterior but figure do they seize good works in my day all had was clymer manual for my sled or what can not say more here in north ontario where few specalties here

[@wryanddry2266]

Welding galvanized things is bad for you, because you might breathe in zinc fumes. You can take the zinc coating off the nuts by soaking overnight or so in vinegar. Soak until they stop bubbling.

[@markgarland7202]

Great Job !! I`m getting ready to do this on a 1994 f150 5.0 GREAT TIPS !!!

[@1keykneedeep]

Awesome tip and outcome. Looks like a piece of cake

[@robitaill3]

Think of the hot cold thing like glass. If you heat glass really hot then run cold water it will shatter. Same principle with the stud

[@Italianborn]

I must have watched like 10 video so far Lol...planning to buy a hemi 🤣🤣

[@mwv8408]

To help improve the welding with a mig, don't use a ZINC nut! the gas it emits messes with the weld in a BAD way! So, collect a few of the plain black steel nets for this purpose.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Oh I would but they are so hard to find. I dont have any problem with the zinc nuts holding, not for this purpose anyway.

[@mwv8408]

@@FordTechMakuloco Well, they are hard to find if you just look at the hardware stores, but LOTs of the actual factory bolts and nuts are NOT Zinc coated, but YES the ones they get you from their nut and bolt bin are ZINC! (and I do mean at the dealers) Look at your second step weld (not the tack) if you notice there is a volcano little crown in it!!! That is from the gasses emitted from the ZINC, trapped paints will do this as well! (I'm not a welder either) but I've seen this many times over the past 20 years or so, the one thing about mig welding is CLEAN, untreated steel is what it was designed for. I'm very impressed with your skill and your video but if you keep an eye out for just some common grey or the black nuts (used) and toss them in a jar or small plastic tub you'll find they will weld better, EVERYTHING that isn't steel screws with the mig weld. I'm just trying to give you some pointers! Also! the fumes from Zinc (galvanized) is EXTREMELY toxic if you breath very much of it. Those volcanoes in the weld is from something contaminating molten metal during the welding process, even oxygen messes with it, that's the purpose of the flux, or if used the gas shielding that's in a mig welding setup.

[@182QKFTW]

Welding Zinc Creates Zinc Oxide & Is Harmful To Breathe. Be Sure To Ventilate The Area Well. That Said, I Have Used This Technique, w/ Zinc Nuts, With Great Success! Great Video

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I treat any welding fumes as toxic and avoid them at all cost.

[@NIghthorseGrows]

Currently trying this on my 01 expedition I got on a great deal. 1 of three out today. Was really having a penetration issue. I think I'm gonna try the bigger nuts and build up the nubs a bit. I will fix this thing.

[@darwindropmazda]

You got the job done Brian! That’s all that matters💯

[@mph5896]

I am a sh@t welder, never had luck welding a nut on. I just booger weld out and make a goop with weld. Then use Irwin bolt-grip extractor (they come in different sizes a kit) to grab on the weld and unscrew it out.

[@dirtydoug181]

That technique saved lots of time in rusty south Jersey

[@theworldsyourlobster1583]

There’s something so satisfying about this such a relief when it comes out like popping a big zit lol It’s a b******d when your manifold studs break very good video, I may have to attempt this on my Porsche when I replace the headers only difference is I will be upside down , and remember Folks “ISOLATE THE CAR!!” When welding disconnect the battery very important....

[@MrZoikel]

Done this too. Works well most of the time. Unfortunately some studs just won't budge and require drilling.

[@mwv8408]

My stepson is at this point on an exhaust manifold or a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Hemi engine in it, He had four or so that wasn't broke but the heads of them were rusted to little nubs! I torched the head off from ALL of them and we got the manifold off, and with LOTS of work we got a couple of the long stemmed bolts out but they didn't just unscrew like the ones in these video's, it was more like a thread locker had been use, which in most cases the extreme heat will unset the thread locker, but his studs are seized in the heads, and he had three of them that were just broke off at the head and we NEVER put a wrench to them, they just broke sometime in the past on their own, I think that's what caused the manifold to start leaking to begin with!

[@jimgam730]

Hey, in this situation the weld doesn't have to look good, it just has to hold. And your's did. Good job

[@pingpong9656]

Does the orientation matter? Would it work if piece is laying flat - would the spatter stick to the surface? What wire would you recommend - someone mentioned it should be Carbon Steel flux core - is this true? Thnx

[@goneballistic]

This is extremely helpful, great video!

[@danielmarjanovic9957]

I have a 2013 ford f150 3.5 with broken manifold studs. Will mig welding a nut to the broken thing get them out? Not sure about the material of block and threads. Anything I should worry about? I don’t want the weld material sticking to anything but the broken stud. They are halfway down inside the block..

[@therealsideburnz]

I had 8 of 10 bolts either break or round off replacing the intake manifold in my 5.4 2v. It took a lot of tries, as I kept twisting the nuts off the studs but this tip saved my bacon big time! Gave me the confidence to go after the exhaust manifold that’s been ticking for a year

[@cobraninetysix3883]

Great video! Gives me a reason to run down to harbor freight to buy one of there cheapos to play with. If I can get half way decent with it, and use it more then once in a while, I'll buy a real one!

[@littlemoo52]

makes me wanna go weld something

[@joelangrehr3249]

Lol

[@aux1z11]

Was that on a 2.5L I just ordered a ex manifold and I bet I may have to do this but going to try to get them all out with out it. I could not find a 98 2.5 manifold anywhere so the closes thing was a 92 2.3 manifold at rock auto

[@dennisonjoel]

Nice! Just FYI, zinc welding fumes are pretty nasty in the long run (metal fume fever). I try to weld uncoated metal if possible.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Of course if you can find it. Question is which is worse zinc, black oxide or galvanized?

[@dennisonjoel]

FordTechMakuloco I'm no expert, but I would think zinc and galvanized would be worse given the higher zinc content in both. There doesn't seem to be any zinc in black oxide coatings.

[@BlackBuzzzard]

I put zinc or galvanized stuff in my gas forge (outside) to burn off the zinc. Then its safe to weld on. Option B is to hold your breath while welding since its a very short weld, then step away from the smoke.

[@hjonedmonds]

They are both bad, I have had flu like systems for several days after welding on these coatings on a job, I use a good filter now lol when I weld on them for any length of time, I think it depends on how much you are exposed to the fumes.

[@MastersonsCarCare]

Simply amazing repair. Excellent job.

[@dalestickel6438]

I ended up having to take both heads off my 4.6 to fix the exhaust studs 2010 F-150 engine in chassis

[@rdp2370]

Brian, do you put any type of anti seize on the studs at all when reassembling?

[@jonathanbywater2063]

Life saver. Thanks so much

[@jamesweil3470]

Excellent method for extracting bolts, do you think the Heats from the welder also helps break loose the broken stud?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes on rusted studs it will break the bond.

[@trobin0406]

Would this work on a cast iron block or do you run the risk of cracking the cast iron due to rapid changes in heat?

[@SerenoOunce]

When welding you want to do short 2-3 sec bursts repeatedly heating and letting it cool in stages. Risk of cracking is very low. But coat the area around stud w/ grease so stud doesn't get welded to the block/head.

[@IDontAShitGive]

Can I do this with a stuck stud sub flush in a cast iron block? Very helpful video thank you.

[@Leekautorepair]

I've tried this method. It's a 50/50 shot.....Nothing is better than heat and a stud extractor

[@scottmorris4756]

Leekautorepair so then it is better to heat first, and ask questions later

[@scottweatherman3266]

Very excellent. I learned something new. Now, my question. Is the Ford bolts anything like the ones used in the 1987-1994 aluminum heads. GM charges a very high price for the bolts and nuts but, work very well. Thanks for the video.

[@TonyLee-hl4hy]

Would a gasless flux welder work for this??

[@oby-1607]

Excellent tip. Would it help as you are working out the stud to hit it with something like PB Blaster to help solvent the corrosion that caused this?

[@DK-vx1zc]

Thanks for another great informative video! I really appreciate all your videos. I can imagine they take quite a bit of time to produce. Your shop is fantastic.. Like an operating room. Dan

[@DennisKenneybees]

How do you do it with the engine in the truck?

[@codyswilley]

Something else that works really well is if you can get a small hammer in there and tap on the welded nut. Its double trouble on the stud. Heat and a little shock

[@neptune4167]

I broke an extractor off in the block, bottom very front port. Tried welding, about 30 times, but it wouldn't stick. Any suggestions out there? Am using a Lincoln 140, never welded anything in my life.

[@garymcmullin2292]

I got to wondering, saw comments that it is only the first few stud threads that freeze in place so why wouldn't a guy want to heat every stud prior to attempting removal and risking a break off? I'd rather deal with pinpointing an fine single acetylene flame cone...say a "0" or a #"1" welding tip adjusted to keep the flame manageable yet adequate to break the steel/aluminum lockup.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The studs are not seizing in the heads at all so that would not help.

[@galbedxasan2052]

Great vedio thnks we need more!

[@SajidHussain-rl9ey]

Thanks mate ...top man good video

[@rstar88105]

Had to do this last week on a broken bolt sub flush. My advise is to practice on a bolt and nut on the bench to dial in the welder and get a feel for how the welding wand needs to be held for the broken stud on the car. On a side note i have seen two guys torch out broken bolts in steel cylinder heads leaving the treads intact, it was pretty impressive but I never tried to pull that off on a customer car. Haha

[@ericsandrin8123]

its NOT a steel cylinder . its cast iron..the torch doesn't cut cast iron...30 years on everything to do with cars. all welding...i can blow broken bolts out of cast steel parts too..with blind holes which means they dont go all the way through..it usually wrecks the cutting tip but you'll get the job done in minutes..another wat to remove broken studs in holes when its broke off just inside the hole..put a washer just slightly smaller than the hole weld through the washer to the stud till it welds to the bolt..it wont weld to the cylinder head..even with stick...steel doesnt weld to aluminum or cast iron the only thing in there will be flux sometimes...then..clean off washer level and weld a nut on the washer..go for coffee..when you come back you will be able to remove broken stud easily ..go back and forth a little at a time slowly working your way out ...usuall no more than two turns..back and forth..you will be able to remove the stud the rest of the way without going back and forth..easy to do because youve given time for the bolt to cool off and shrink..this breaks the bond 99.999 % 0r the time...if the weld breaks try it again...never had this NOT work...a mig machine with solid wire and using argon co2 mixed gas...miracles can be preformed with solid wire..no flux

[@amtpdb1]

Do you disconnect the battery and computer before welding? I have heard in the past there could be an issue. What is your take on it? Thanks for the video.