The Grigri Hazard That No One Tells You About!

[@michaelfarrell8962]

The bulldozer is rated at 21kN, for those who were wondering

[@Mrgnothing1]

'Puts stick on ground' Kid: I don't think so, mate (read in james Acaster voice)

[@elmeradams8781]

Who the heck is James Askher?

[@Mrgnothing1]

@@elmeradams8781 a comedian, Google hin

[@ganondorj2]

@@elmeradams8781 *Acaster British comedian. Pretty funny guy actually, check out his Classic Scrapes.

[@Jokl92]

So many experienced climbers died because of the missing end knot... It's a shame... Good Grigri Hack 👍

[@mineadventures7938]

this is all new to me, but i will say, that end of the rope was on my mind, i said, self, i wonder if there should be a knot on the end, oh yes,

[@AlwayzPr0]

recently saw a video of two russian SF guys repel without one, they fell 50ft onto a ship deck

[@AlwayzPr0]

Russian Rosgvardia servicemen fast-roping accident

[@Chance-ry1hq]

This lil dude is the only KZbinr, I would climb with. Very knowledgeable, hard working, and funny as hell.

[@markbryce9074]

As a new climber, 4-5 months, I really appreciate the content you’re putting out. I’m still learning how to make a PB&J, so thanks for the info!

[@Jokl92]

Should've named the video: "The grim reaper hates this one easy grigri trick" ...but then maybe your weird cousin would be back and KZbin wouldn't approve 😅

[@BetaClimbers]

That is a great title, are you for hire lol! I’ll try that one in another episode hahaha

[@Jokl92]

@@BetaClimbers haha, I guess I should start my own climbing channel then 😂

[@theclimbingleek]

@@BetaClimbers You challenged me, this will be your downfall 😝 haha, no promises, but we will see!

[@mikelarin8037]

Theres also a big issue with being too close to a low anchor, in a top belay situation. If you contact the anchor when the climber falls the grigri can flip upside down and it completely unloads. If your hand isnt on the break linr then the climber that just fell pulling you into the anchor is now free falling even further. Its happened to me on both ends. luckily both times, hands were on the brake line and it only ended up in a panicked 5 ft drop.

[@cesarbarbosa3474]

Experienced or not that was a great piece of advice for all climbers! Thanks for thesecrethintthatshouldn'tbesecretatall

[@ReesSorby22]

Your kid giving you the water was so cute!!

[@johntatman9168]

This also applies when you're belaying. It's easy to deck your climber if you have most of the rope out and your climber is near the ground. If you don't have your hand on the rope and you release the brake as we've all seen here, that rope whips through the grigri due to the stretch and before you know it your climber is on the deck. Every grigri accident I've heard of is on the belay and this shows one example of what can happen.

[@malr1975]

That wouldn't happen if you were tied into the belay loop which you should be. That could only happen if you only had the rope in the grigri, and grigri attached to belay loop and the rope end wasn't. That's not the way you set it up dude that's dangerous. He's not talking about that, he's talking about rapel.

[@malr1975]

Ah OK sorry I read it again and I think you mean you have slack, but are tied on. Yes I could see that happening but I guess it shouldn't if the belay is paying attention.

[@m0rjc]

I've seen a climber dropped with a GriGri1 device, and wonder if the anti-panic in the GriGri+ solves this. Does it stop you releasing the brake enough? I guess the rope stretch is there with the old style tube or bug device, but with the tube device we're always holding onto the brake line for dear life because if we let go the climber will just fall.

[@betweenthelinesfishing3465]

And another life saving tip. Thank you soo much Joshua much appreciated.

[@georgestone8099]

Good shout, definitely something I'd not thought about.

[@nirrepunkt123]

Thnx! Beeb thinking about switching to a grigri but have never heard anyone say that. Again, thnx

[@Alvinyokatori]

I use an ATC but the rope handling tips changed my life 😂

[@dave_h_8742]

Changed your life, to still alive ?😁

[@derekatwood6236]

Great video! mammut is pissed that you use their free gear to test out a petzl device! 😂

[@BetaClimbers]

Man that grigri sure is dangerous lmao 🤣 definitely should use mammut products! Hahaha

[@derekatwood6236]

@@BetaClimbers 🤣😂

[@Mciws1130]

Best visual and resulting effect!

[@faskojanci]

Great vid👌🏻😊 Im glad I found your YT channel. Greetings from Slovakia🇸🇰 stay safe🤜🏻🤛🏻

[@Delong7221]

Skip to 5:30 to get to the content. The first 5 minutes is flaking a rope... :|

[@lik3OMJ]

@6:17 for the content you came here for

[@dsm1021]

Could you do a video on anchor placement for top rope or rappelling??

[@blistkris]

Great info. I haven't seen it demonstrated like that before. Yeah I wanna see some exploration of the quarry!

[@jackmarage8138]

I recently bought a Grigri 2 and been playing around with it a little bit. Thanks for the input. Very good knowledge to have . Thank you

[@AngrySkipperGC]

Yep, definitely my favourite underground, on the ground climbing channel. Hahaha.

[@Fight4Freedom1911]

This taught me something new!! Maybe saved me for future repels so thanks!!!

[@crazedvidmaker]

Thanks! I was just telling someone not to let go with the brake hand and I couldn’t explain why

[@yasmina.golding9240]

As someone looking to switch from ATC to assisted breaking device all this stuff is really helpful, thanks!

[@mitchellbaker4806]

Worth having both, don't sell you ATC.

[@tonypizzycata]

Mabye I got some things wrong at first place or a different approach to decending on rope but I have got some questions: Why are you decending on a single rope? How do you get your rope back? And adding a Prusik-knot or something similar at the unloaded rope solves the problem you are pointing out. In my opinion this should be standard anyways. Please correct me, if missed the point.

[@pulda015]

U descend a single rope with a tag line tied at the other end that you use to pull the rope... Or it's a fixed line.

[@jakublanca5535]

Keep up the good quality content! I started watching your channel ~2 months ago and can't get enough, your videos are so underrated. :)

[@WaterfallWhispering]

I don’t use the gri gri but if I ever have to it nice to know this lil bit of info! Bravo beta

[@MegaVagus]

Thank you, man 👍 this information saves lives

[@vangmountain]

Nice info, and good to know AND this is why the Grigri is not a hands-free device!

[@chasingtrailproductions3689]

I just bought my first rope this week. This was very helpful in understanding some of the physics of loaded rope. Very useful. Thanks JP

[@4-SeasonNature]

Start watching at 6:00. Problem is when you're setting up an anchor on top of a rock climbing route, it takes sole serious math work to tie the end knot at the exact right spot.

[@petep9638]

Don't own a Grigri but I love your vids. Glad brands are sending you free stuff!

[@sendit2873]

the little one is keeping pops hydrated how cool nice they sent you some gear from Mammut

[@travisbishop3593]

Wow. Thank you, Josh. I had no idea that would happen. Then again, I've only been bouldering, but would like to expand.

[@hemasgeir470]

I would never rappel on a grigri type device, but never say never... Let's imagine I'm forced to, It would have surprised me for sure. I honestly did not know about that hazard, so it's a real thank you I guess. I usually never let go of the break side of the rope but here again, never say never, that's why it's called an accident after all. Great video as always.

[@Didone2011]

Tjanks for the vid! Would Grigri+ stop at this speed, or it is more about the leaver angle?

[@norisordepraf]

aweseome video, please do some more videos like this!

[@oneilljames1]

That harness is dope lol. I love gear in obnoxious colors

[@trip7shark]

Hmmm... Interesting. I would have never thought about that! Generally, I instruct by saying reason for the brake hand on a GriGri is just in case maybe the device fails or installing the rope was backwards, essentially turning it into an ATC.

[@melkorWTF]

I always assumed it was to prevent the brake side of the rope from somehow finding itself in a feeding position (upward out of the grigri), preventing the grigri from breaking properly.

[@trip7shark]

@@melkorWTF Ya. Kind of strange. Reason why you always got a stopper knot in the end. If you rappell as much as I do, typically you're not looking for the end of the rope as would assume that you'd run into the knot instead.

[@Jh0ac]

Grigris can fail too, there's a video of someone doing it if you search grigri failure test

[@trip7shark]

@@Jh0ac HowNotToHighline

[@Jh0ac]

@@trip7shark Haha I mean the guy with a red shirt that literally falls from a tree rig demonstrating the camming action on the grigri failing to initiate

[@mrdavidurquhart]

This is such an important video maybe you should trim the start a bit or add another few tips at the end if you want to achieve a certain length. Thanks for making this.

[@magwitch]

Really cool demo cheers Josh! Defo wondered how you go about using 2 gri-gri's at the same time!

[@BetaClimbers]

😂

[@magwitch]

@@BetaClimbers he's talking about not using a third hand but man, sounds like we're going to need four!

[@BetaClimbers]

@@magwitch yeah I ment using a special carabiner but there are a couple other cool tricks I’ll make a KZbin short Tn.

[@magwitch]

@@BetaClimbers oh yes, you did make that clear in the video, I just like the idea of a silly video using 2 gri-gri's. Also keen to see that biner video. (Already subbed with notifications, too good a channel to miss a video!)

[@BetaClimbers]

@@magwitch right on appreciate it 🤙🏻 yeah that would be a funny thing to see lol I can imagine some one trying to set it up as a top rope solo back up if they didn’t know what they where doing. Lol 😂

[@MD-bf2ce]

Haven't climbed yet but have been really wanting to get involved. This is such an important point to make and something I never would have thought us. Thank you for making this.

[@SirDavosChannel]

Wholly cow.....thanks! I never thought that out.

[@jimmyflipper8093]

Good information. Yes, some quarry climbing pls. 👍

[@Billster1955]

Using a static rope that has very little elasticity would prevent that from happening, correct?

[@dannyCOTW]

Basically. But remember that static rope is still not 0 stretch

[@Billster1955]

@@dannyCOTW Good point

[@BackcountryPilgrim]

I'm a newb with a gri gri, thanks for the tip!

[@staleyexplores]

I think I've experienced this without realizing what happened, thankfully it wasn't a scary situation...thx for enlightening me, cheers.

[@barnaclebill1615]

Thanks for the lifesaver! 👍😁

[@Claudio_1874]

Muchas gracias por tomarte el trabajo de hacer esta prueba en campo. Saludos!

[@JoBianco]

I’ve actually never heard of this, good job thank you for the info!

[@mikesnow.]

Dayum! I think in science class, we called that one "Potential energy"!!! Springy action on the dynamic ropes hey?

[@vrva3138]

Does this happen to the grigri plus too? cuz it has a lever that disengages.

[@mitchellbaker4806]

Gonna use this to test trad gear connected to me whilst hanging on a top belay lol

[@gr.4380]

the rope stretches 30% under super heavy loads, as in it might hit ~20% with a heavy whipper. The real test you're doing at 8:00 is a static stretch, which will be much lower, around 10%

[@brendatang2556]

Very useful . Thank you 🙏

[@shanalucille]

Thank you❤

[@erikteriele6375]

2 Grigri videos in a row!? Let's keep it going.

[@BetaClimbers]

B👏🏻E👏🏻T👏🏻

[@joelharvey1693]

What did you do to make the rope slip? It's not clear in the video.

[@TonySpinach]

I experienced this today, i never let go of the brake rope, but i did a 60m dynamic rope rappel and the rope was just trying to fly through my atc because of the elasticity. Luckily i had a third hand. Not to mention the atc felt like it was hot enough to melt my rope if i stood in one spot.

[@lucas29476]

third hand???

[@TonySpinach]

@@lucas29476 yes

[@theonewind]

@@lucas29476 its a string/knot that helps you rappel

[@daviddionne8296]

Military, only repel on a static line.

[@tomtom4405]

Long rappels, Petzl recommends using an extra, small sized, braking biner, or attaching the grigri with one that has the brake built in like the Petzl Freino (personally, I've never seen braking biners used except underground/caving)

[@TifaLovesStrife]

Especially when you explain stretch on dynamic rope!

[@sriderhi8784]

Yes on a Quarry vid! And where's your video on your Dad's route? Informative and entertaining content as usual. And I was one of those nubs that tried to uncoil their first rope from the floor, most frustrating 30minutes of my life. :)

[@jeremyromine9718]

Awesome i have that same exact rope. Crag we care classic. Love it.

[@ananda_miaoyin]

I have that very same rope. Mammut Classic 9.9 80M We call it the "Long Running Bastard." Heavy as hell, management nightmare at an upper belay station BUT you will NEVER run out of rope on any pitch. Rappelling on a Big 8, that rope feels like it goes from 9.9MM to an 8 real quick towards the end!

[@scheisstag]

I am a cave climber. I use a semi static rope. So it still has some stretch. Once I rappelled down the full 50 meters of my rope. Got out of the rope at the bottom close to the end knot and siiiiing: looked at the rope dangling 3 meters over my head from the middle of the cave ceiling. (I survived, because we used two ropes this day and I stopped the other guy from untying his rope.)

[@BetaClimbers]

Oh boy! 😂

[@Hiimstring3]

Worthwhile backing up a grigri with prussic either above or below?

[@jasonleach7394]

This entire ten minutes could have been summed up with "keep your hand on the brake strand unless you have a backup or you may deck, annnd cut".

[@ralfrussel1950]

Solid anchor

[@JulioNavarrete-u4q]

Have you done a review on the safeguard from madrock ?

[@BetaClimbers]

@@JulioNavarrete-u4q that’s very similar to the birdie and also very grigri like (just smaller) I’ll think about doing a review of them but it would act the same as a grigri would. 👍🏻

[@adammccurdy5345]

No helmet on the edge caterpillar tut tut you should no better than that 🤣 love from the 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@ericmetzgar4285]

Very good to know. Thanks a million.

[@guyduczynski8318]

There are lots more things that contribute to extra distance for a leader fall. Slack in rope + stretch in rope + slack in belay + stretch in belay + slack in pro + stretch in pro - rope belayer can haul in. What you estimate is a 2m fall can easily become over 10m.

[@rickedeckard2006]

Great info right there dude!

[@nicod1886]

Damn man! Almost 33k subscribers?!?! Congrats, you deserve it! That’s awesome to see because I’ve been here since you started (or close to it). I really appreciated how humble you are and that you kept videos up where you made a mistake… despite all the haters and keyboard warriors who’ve never climbed a day in their life; let alone tried to spread knowledge on KZbin for strangers to grow. That kind of content is rare, which is sad because it helps amateurs learn so much. Lol I’m in no way implying that you make mistakes often btw 😂. I just know that most content creators would delete their videos if they fricken pronounced a word incorrectly or something petty like that. We’re all here to learn and share experiences…. And to watch your daughter steal your props hahahaha. Keep it up brother because you’re sharing valuable knowledge that could (or potentially has) save lives. Not much rock climbing out here in Detroit, MI but I’ve always enjoyed your content because I spend a lot of my free time in tree canopy’s (often using a grigri for RADS, if I’m feeling lazy and don’t wanna rope walk). Keep it up brother and stay safe 👍.

[@BetaClimbers]

Right on appreciate it! Made my day 🤙🏻

[@nicod1886]

@@BetaClimbers Hell yea, you have a big following now. All the hard work will likely lead to even more!

[@mitchellbarnow1709]

I would love to see some quarry video! Awesome demonstration video, too!

[@brianrodman1033]

Wouldn’t it act different with MORE weight on the line (holding the cam locked tighter)? It would have been cool to see it done with a 50m rope as that’s a length I’m likely to experience.

[@losinskizzle]

When you pull back the lever (unlock the cam) it releases the load because the rope has the weight off of it and flows through the gri gri with no traction. The point being is that the hazard is when the cam is unlocked. Essentially the weight is off of the cam at that point. More weight would mean more rope stretch, meaning that there is a greater potential for more rope to be pulled back through the device once the rope is unweighted (cam unlocked).

[@George.Cristian]

I have belayed with an gri gri and I can tell you that this scenario makes no sense.

[@HochstartHarry]

I dont rapell on grigris. I use em soley for lead belay, folowers get belayed by me with atc guide from the top and to rapell i use the atc aswell or the 8 if the atc is not available. Ive also never done long single rope rapells. Only one single one wich was like 12m to clean and check out a possible bolder /short route in my area. Wich i ended up first ascending on toprope since there is no cracks or anything and i didnt want to bolt virgin rock with questionable legality.

[@iljano20]

Thanks !!

[@CoyoteChris]

Great advice for this newbie but dang, it took over 8 minutes to get to the point 😂

[@coachingtips9686]

I'm a bit confused. When he says "go like this" what is he doing? I can't see in the video what is causing the rope to go slack.

[@BetaClimbers]

Ropes are like rubber bands, think of it like stretching a rubber band then letting it go.

[@coachingtips9686]

@@BetaClimbers yep. i just can't see what he does to make the "rubber band" effect happen. does he lean forward? step forward? open the handle?

[@BetaClimbers]

@@coachingtips9686 oh I am artificially adding body weight and stretching the line by pulling back with my legs then pulling on the grigri handle. The rope snaps through the device when I pull on the handle. Pulling on the grigri handle releases friction on the rope.

[@theehehron-1634]

great stuff

[@TrueGoat-Bahhh]

First lesson i learned, shout out to prusik knots.

[@johnw3736]

My first rope was an 80 meter, and I completely butchered uncoiling it. Took me an hour and a half to get it all straightened out.

[@danabartlett9772]

70 to 80 feet of stretch on a 70 meter/80 meter rope?

[@judsonkimble]

Love the dozer. So- less of an issue (/non-issue) if repelling on a static line? Thanks.

[@BetaClimbers]

A little less statics, usually have a 4 percent stretch if I remember correctly

[@adicahyadiwibowo]

Nice, thanks alot !!!

[@dwainwarren2952]

Thank you for the, DON'T STEP ON THE ROPE. I have climbed with a few BOZOS that doesn’t think that matters.

[@loganzimmerman541]

after i became an arborist i feel nothing about throwing my rope in dirt, i have become evil

[@malr1975]

Do you use a grigri + when workiin the tree?

[@loganzimmerman541]

@@malr1975 no but I use a Grillon

[@letsbesomebody7653]

So this is less of a problem/negated with a static line?

[@BetaClimbers]

Yeah it’s less

[@jipe4153]

Letting go while pulling on the bar is ridiculous, never seen anyone do that.. seen plenty of people briefly let go when system is statically weighted though

[@BetaClimbers]

It’s not so much about pulling the bar and letting go. If the rope has enough plastic deformation, there can be a tremendous amount of pull back. Even with a hand on the break a large amount of rope can snap through a grigri. If you rappel while “Riding the pig” or in a rescue attempt you will feel it for yourself especially if you try to unweighted the rope abit while near the end of the line. So it’s best to ad some friction to help counter act that. I made a short video on one way to do that quickly.

[@malr1975]

Cool I'll watch it. But can you explain why you wouldn't use a prussik?

[@federicoezequielmackin]

dude... there's a random kid that keeps poppin up messin your videos...

[@zacharylaschober]

Using both the Sender harness and a We Care 80m. Been a tremendous fan of both, though will say would’ve appreciated the front loops were not coated but the same low profile nylon as the back, as well as only Edelrids are properly lap coiled, but Mammut is the best of everyone else.

[@Bakkiepleuah]

Actual subject of the video is @ 7:34

[@jdagilliland]

Safety is the number one priority! *walks backward down a ROAD*

[@rc5981]

grigri+ locks if you overpull the handle. Still hold the brake though. It's just good practice

[@JoeOceanside]

Let's Rappel down and scuba dive the quarry.

[@justinthareja5881]

Reason #1237 to always knot the ends. But i'm not convinced about the springing action. Wouldn't rope stretch happen gradually over the length of the rappel, so at the end only the 10' tail would have stretch left? Does anyone have a link to a report or an anecdote where this springing action was the primary cause of the accident?

[@malr1975]

It's a loaded spring... Josh is the weight dangling. When spring is suddenly released, the climber decends, but the rope accelerates up at the same time and could whip through the device quickly. In Scotland we use prussik loops...and a knot on the end. This is an epic video and reminds us why!

[@KennyFontan]

Doesn’t the grigri plus prevent you from completely opening the lever like in your example?

[@dannyCOTW]

It doesn't need to completely open to let the rope sing through. If you imagine how a springy rope can lead to a jerky rappel, eventually each jerk becomes a huge amount of rope popping through the device.