Better Bed Adhesion with a Little Glue Stick

Chuck shows you a trick to Better Bed Adhesion with a Little Glue Stick. He explains the benefits of a PVA glue stick. It's a simple trick that some frown on but its saved so many prints from falling of the bed and makes a perfect bed level work as you expect. So watch and see why Chuck is such a fan of glue sticks.
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[@kaeggensen]

I quite often apply hairspray and it works also very well. The thing is don't spray it on the bed when its on the printer. That will easily mess up everything. Remove it, spray it on the balcony and done. Very nice video as always Chuck!

[@gusbert]

I use Elmers purple, but only because it's real easy to see if you've cleaned it off correctly. If you wipe the bed with a damp kitchen roll and you see purple, wipe some more! I apply the glue only to the area where the print is going to happen, not the whole bed, and usually use two layers at right angles to each other to ensure a good coverage. But I think one carefully applied layer would also work.

[@Bitplanebrother]

you don´t even have to clean it after every print..just a moist sponge to reapply it and then preheat to get rid of the moisture..

[@jps99]

I use the purple gluestick too. I paint a zig-zag on the print bed with it then use a slightly wet 1-1/2" paint brush to swirl it around and coat the bed evenly. I make sure to preheat the bed before starting the print job to make sure it is dry. I've printed over 1000 hrs using this method with great results. I liked the hair spray idea, but it seemed to me that the spray would get sucked into the cooling fans and gum them up

[@hydroturd]

this guy is like an uncle with all the tips from experience. I learn something useful every time!

[@candydejolie6292]

after trying quite a few things and leveling the bed a hundred times i tried the glue stick ( had purple on hand) working great ever since.

[@icyicington]

It's incredible how well this actually works.. I had a few glue sticks that said conforms to "ASTM D 4236" that I got from a few filaments I ordered and decided to keep them, and I'm glad I did. I could never get prints that are 0.12mm thin to actually print, so I could never print in super good detail, because it would never stick, since it was such a thin initial layer. I always have done 0.2mm which is decent, but after around 50 prints on my glass bed; the initial layer was never sticking firmly anymore. I wanted to sway from using glue but I didn't realize you could just wipe it off with water after around 4-5 prints and recoat it. You def earned my like.

[@boggisthecat]

I have found watered-down PVA glue works well. It is water-soluble, so easy to clean off. This was required when printing things like the articulated lizard, which have tiny footprints for some segments. I had zero success rate before applying a layer of this (just dabbing a paper towel in it then wiping down the bed to leave a layer), and no adhesion problems thereafter.

[@markwheatley5449]

Been using the Elmers purple sticks and had really good results on my Ender 3 V2. It's easy to see while applying and then clear during the print. I usually apply when the bed is heating up, it goes on easier.

[@-robo-]

I have used this method for years and it works great. In fact often times I only need to draw an X or O to catch the print. When that isn't enough I use a skirt to show where glue is needed, stop, glue, then restart.

[@HellfireRampage]

Wow, it just works ! I've spent a whole day to level my bed, configure a temprerature, replace an filament, googling, a lot of GOOGLING. But now it works for me. My first layer sticks well to a bed. I don't know how to wash the glue from my table , but guess it is possible by isopropyl or ethanol

[@FilamentFriday]

Warm water on a cloth washed it right off.

[@TheLastChapter2023]

Works everytime . Once applied , after the first print , I just dampen a paper towel and gently go over the bed after the print . Good for 4 or 5 prints . Big help in releasing flexibles .

[@johnvodopija]

I have used glue stick on the glass bed of my Cr-10 and is has worked flawlessly. I did have to wash the glass sheet with soapy water and found I always needed to relevel the bed afterwards. I have since swapped out to a wham bam PEX magnetic bed surface and love it. Yes I do need to rough the surface with steel wool every so often and wipe with ipa but it works great. I rarely need to level the bed anymore. Great video btw. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺

[@TheSuburban15]

PETG was driving me crazy. The Overture build surfaces work perfect for PLA, but PETG was ripping it trying to get parts off, but I would still get warping on large prints Elmer's glue stick on smooth borosilicate glass works great, believe it or not.

[@sambuildsstuff]

Thanks so much! I was having a print that wasn't sticking for like the 5th time in a row and first try after using a glue stick it worked! :)

[@Riverboat374]

My thoughts - I really wish you would have showed us HOW you apply your glue stick. There are all kinds of different methods shown on KZbin.

[@RubixB0y]

Didn't you hear him? ONE SWIPE!

[@angertone213]

Literally "swipe" it the same way you'd put it on paper lol.. just make sure not to leave a glob of it. basically using the weight of the gluestick itself, don't push it down or anything. I've printed 5 trees at once and had to cover my entire plate with glue, was a successful 20 hour print.

[@Bitplanebrother]

just like you would do with a piece of paper..slide it out..put it on the bed and swipe..;)

[@Fixingthingz4u]

Im quessing 1 swipe over the WHOLE bed not going back and fourth numerous times :)

[@gr7396]

Ok simple swipe got it. But… showing it being swiped and a print results while explaining it would be the final touch. I’ve tried glue stick with poor results. I went over to Magigoo for its ease of applying. I also went to a pei surface. The recommendation of “ just use glue stick” is never well presented as to one swipe or many. Also on a hot or cold bed. Chuck has gives his recommendation on what glue stick to try abs that’s a good start for me when my Magigoo is gone! I’d liked to have seen his favorite glue stick applied and a finished print removal and surface outcome. Fortunately that’s a quick easy update he could add to his next video for all of us that haven’t used glue stick or weren’t impressed the way we were using it. Any experts can fast forward thru that. Problem solved.

[@neverclevernorwitty7821]

Works great, the only issue I will add that wasn't mentioned. If you are printing on a glass bed and looking for that high gloss finish, the glue will imprint into the print. You still get a very smooth surface, but you can see the glue stick swipes in the reflection. For this particular print I was hoping for that glass finish and only see those concentric patterns on the bottom layer, but still turns out good.

[@mushroom-madness1]

I have been using the elmer purple glue stick since I got my ender 3 v2 about a month ago and it has pretty much completely changed the game. I have had a total of 0 issues relating to bed adhesion, except if it sticks too well then you can just knock it with a blunt object (such as a screwdriver handle) and it comes right off.

[@TheTrashPirates]

What are temp levels are you using?

[@mushroom-madness1]

@@TheTrashPirates I’m using bed 50 Celsius and nozzle 200 Celsius with PLA but I think you could set the bed higher if you’re still having issues

[@TheTrashPirates]

@@mushroom-madness1 Thanks.. We are new to this. We are using the Overture filament at it says to use 230 - 250 for the nozzle and 80-90 for the bed. Tried everything within that range and does not stick! Cleaned it and last thing I am going to try is the glue. But I am giving it temp and nothing.

[@npunith]

I'm too facing the same Will try glue stick Mine also E3 V2

[@keep1hunnid]

I got Ender 3v2 with the carborundum plate. No matter what I tried all the PLA filaments I had (HatchBox, Overture, and MatterHackers) would warp slightly in corners, even while the rest of the print had good adhesion. I even tried using a brim and while brim would hold great the corners of the actual models would still warp despite the brim. After almost 2 months of struggling, I decided to flip the bed to the smooth glass side and try glue. Problem solved, no brim needed, the prints stick great and no more warping. So yeah, glue stick is amazing.

[@anujchandkapoor]

I have been using glue sticks for years now and am very happy with it.

[@IAMCUBEMAN]

My Ender 3 has always struggled with large, full bed prints because they edges will warp. Recently came across this video, and I needed a full bed print. Worked like a charm with Elmer's purple, but I'll try Avery when I run out.

[@alexstone691]

I am using the other side of my Ender 3 v2 neo build plate as the top one sticks too well and with glue its awesome

[@timgeiseman6243]

I have the same ender 3 glass bed, I print about 60 to 80 parts a week on it all without glue or what not. 65 bed temp and a slow initial layer speed of about 10 and I have perfect surfaces every time. Of course I also have a bl touch and make sure the bed is level.

[@ogredd]

Love the channel! This stuff seems complicated at first but you explain it well.

[@NissanNut74]

Great advice. Worked on my new printer. The first 4 small print jobs worked perfect. Now nothing sticks, tried cleaning to no avail. glue stick just worked!!

[@thetranspanzer3692]

I used glue sticks for a little bit when I got into 3d printing but honestly just upgraded to a PEI bed it's 1000x better

[@salaciousbacon7859]

Totally agree. Once I found glue stick I never looked back. I print a lot of ABS which is prone to curling and glue stick saves the day every time.

[@josefsteiner9401]

i tried it chep and its awesome solved my warping issues and everything thank u so much happy printing thanks for all your help

[@xresonancex]

I am New to 3d printing and almost sent an Ender 3v2 back because all of the prints kept lifting. I found some elmers purple in a draw and now every print has worked perfectly with no lifting at all. I am keeping the Ender 3.

[@AndrewduToit]

I used a glue stick and after a while it was just to difficult to remove and it also failed after a while. Then I tried firm hold hairspray it holds on and I can go layer on layer. It also cleans easy with hand sanitizer alcohol. Every once in a while I still need to level my bed but I think that is just because of the cleaning after using hair spray but that was the case with the glue stick too. Hair spray is also easier to apply. Just a layer or to and we are ready to print. And when it leaves a little imprint after removing the objects you just smooth it with another layer and keep on printing. The glue stick had to be cleaned every time because it lost it's stickiness after one print.

[@dangerous8333]

Why would you use hand sanitizer that has other things in it? Why not just use isopropyl alcohol?

[@AndrewduToit]

Did not know about it until now, or where to get it.

[@RichardRecupero]

Purple glue stick has been my only solution ... Works 100% of the time

[@derekhawley9660]

I was stubborn at the start ... glue stick is not 'right'. I use it all the time. I sometimes put the glue on as the SKIRT is printing, using the skirt as a guide to show where the glue is needed. Thank's for another great video Chep.

[@dadmezz4024]

Thank you Chuck for keeping bed adhesion simple. Works great for me too without heating the bed for pla.

[@kermitinmountain6371]

Yup. CHEP is right. Glue Stick WORKS every time. No questions. I have tried many way until one said that the Glue Stick works the best. For better products: Elmer's Glue Stick. I have been doing it since I first applied the stick and didn't had any problems since.

[@danwatson6260]

I've had a stock Ender 3 with a borosilicate glass bed for over two years. I use a glue stick and have never had a single print lift. For every print I (1) Preheat bed and nozzle for PLA, (2) level the bed with CHEPP's file, (3) swipe with a glue stick up and down, side to side and diagonally both ways, and print. Clean the glass bed with water and dish soap after each print. Always works.

[@toddzino58]

I had a hell of a time with glass. Switched to metal sheet with PEI. Never roughed it up and it has worked great for a year and change now. Nothing wrong with the glue stick. If it works for you, that’s all that matters.

[@srowley85]

I agree with you completely. I’ve tried many different ways to get things to stick, but using a glue stick has given me far and away the most consistent results. I bought a box of Amazon Basics glue sticks for $5 and they’ve served me well, especially on the first generation Sidewinder that has a smooth glass bed.

[@athmug]

This works wonders. I have a slightly uneven bed and was getting adhesion issues despite how many attempts to level the bed, adjust bed temp, or slow down the initial layer. Some of the purple Elmer's glue stick lightly applied over the entire print area and I have an absolutely pristine first layer.

[@Spelter]

Creality Glass Bed and a thin film of hairspray, works for me. And of course, a good bed levelling :)

[@ralph4370]

I laughed at the hairspray until I tried it in frustration when my new ender 3 v2 wasn't sticking to the bed. I had read or saw on KZbin about hairspray. My sister gives me her hair spray cause of lockdown and she wasn't using it. Works and is washable with water and a heated bed. Works great.

[@JannieH]

I can really recommend the Elmer glue stick. It works fantastic ESPECIALLY when you have prints with a very small footprint, ie small contact area on the bed. My bed is surface is glass.

[@VideoCesar07]

Same. I use Hatchbox PLA as my go to for most prints but for some small surface area prints, even with a brim, they would pull off the print bed at some point. Did not happen with larger prints. Use a glue stick and problem solved, the best part being you can easily clean it with a paper towel with warm water. Much better and easier than hairspray IMHO cause you don't have to worry about getting one with the right formula or overspray.

[@robsciuk729]

Using your bed level Gcode, I found that the corners were fine, but the center was low. I put two layers of painter tape on the bottom of the glass bed, and re-leveled the bed, and got a really good level. Prints since have been really good, and the clue was using gcode which also touches the center of the bed, so thanks very much!

[@alaudet]

I think whatever works is what you should use. I once mentioned in a forum that I used hairspray and was told I was doing it wrong, like I broke some acceptable use code or something. I dont really care, I have a stock Ender 3 bed and hairspray never fails. I clean it with IPA every three or four prints. As for the overspray I have a large rag I put over all the critical printer components and go close to the bed with a few even shots. Takes five seconds and just works. Glue sounds great too and will keep it in mind.

[@cruftcreator]

I swear by the glue stick. Makes such a difference and is so easy to do. Doesn’t matter how good my bed level is the glue just helps.

[@joejacomb3453]

i think chuck looks good with a bit of a beard

[@BenChilds]

Preheat glass beds, especially the thick ones that come from Creality. There is a lot of thermal mass to get up to temperature. Just because the probe point at the bottom of the aluminum build plate is at proper temperature doesn't mean that it's hit equilibrium across the opposite surface of the glass.

[@justinchampion5468]

Started using Elmers Purple after an awful experience trying to use Solutech PETG. In my case it was because I needed a sacrificial layer rather than weld the PETG to the bed of my ender 3... I've had good luck with glue-stick ever since and aside from occasionally 'refreshing' the surface, it's been a boon.

[@Tim_3100]

I was having issues with petg on my adventurer it was welding itself to the bed and i applied glue stick to my bed and it printed perfectly and then cracking sound then popped off the bed instantly!

[@unitruth]

When I worked in plastics injection there were multiple different settings that you adjusted to get the right part. Different guys had different settings for their machines but still ended up with good parts. It was whatever works and a different machines reacted differently along with different weather conditions and material.

[@armandoa2484]

I agree with the use of the glue sticks. It hasn’t failed me yet. Great video👍 thanks!

[@tubamanandy2]

We should have seen you actually using the glue stick

[@the-matrix-has-you]

Could you make a example Video of how much glue you put on!

[@davidharris5045]

Been using nail polish remover on my knock off PEI sheet and its fine. The thinned amount of acetone removes filament build up and scraps, but doesn't seem to harm the surface. Glue stick leaves a texture on the printed surface, and I have to wash it off the plate everytime. This is really a "do what works for you, BUT, if you're not doing THIS, then your doing it all wrong" video.

[@TronSAHeroXYZ]

I use a feeler gauge to match for the layer height and manually level the corners of the bed with it. Excess filament causes the nozzle to get loaded up with excess material that snags against the print as the print head passes over a surface. Then the print usually comes off after that. I don't use glue stick generally because its messy. I just turn up the heated bed to be 95-100 c for the first layer "glass bed". This ensures the material will remain in a glass transition state for longer. Then I drop the bed down to 85 c and keep it there for the rest of the print.

[@ClaymateDesigner]

Been using glue stick since I bought my printer 3 years ago.. Works a treat. A very damp rag can spread the glue nicely... The water dried as the bed heats...

[@incogneato6725]

I like my PEI sheet. I never roughed it up and as long as I don't have a lot of oily fingerprints prints sticks fine. I keep a supply of alcohol swabs (the kind for first aid) near the printer and now and then use one to clean the plate. In extreme cases I'll take it off and wash it with soap and water. You just need the bed well leveled and a clean build plate.

[@roofoofighter]

I use Aqua net hairspray but I have a removable glass bed so I don’t have to spray it near the machine. Works great 👍🏻 I tried the purple glue stick but had a hard time getting an even layer.

[@davidhassilev5415]

Elmer's Purple works just fine. I use glass, smooth PEI sheet as well as a build tack like surface and sometimes I'll use glue stick and sometimes I don't. It's another tool to use when needed and when needed it works great.

[@thorsteneggert]

I use a PVA based wood glue. For me it has the advantage that it is liquid. I mix it with water to lower the concentration. In this way I get a thin coating. Of cause I dry it by heating up the bed before the print.

[@edwinvanderhulst7703]

Yep, glue stick for the win. To not get bothered with textures from the glue on the plate I always use a damp cloth before printing and while the bed is still wet put on the glue stick which really skids across the bed in that case and really leaves a very even film. Also I always use the same microfiber cloth which is saturated with glue stick residue. I rinse that cloth every couple of days out but never make it completely devout of glue stick. This gives me a nice even film and no textures. I use the Ender 3 V2 with the textured glass bed but when I made a car decal of 10 centimeters round I could stick it to a vertical glas plate and it would sit for a second and then slide slowly to the bottom without falling off.

[@Shilorius]

I defenetly have to try that. thank you!

[@felipelaghetto5636]

As usual, another excellent hint...I just think you could show us an example of the amount you use (show on video while applying it). That would help begginers to dose the amount.

[@duncancampbell9742]

I use Bostik Glu Stik (clear or blue) on my Ender 3 V2 - mainly because that's what the kids had for school. Then I (carefully) use Windex to clean the plate when required ... or before an important print. Works for me :)

[@BeefIngot]

I find that water and dish soap cleaning works great. I also never use isopropyl on my bed after it ruined my chiron bed

[@byroboy]

I use watered down pva every so often but I've found a quick wipe with acetone usually removes the dust or whatever is stopping my print bed.

[@djditto47]

I will be trying the glue stick but I don’t get why rafts stick but printing with out them doesn’t. Hopefully this helps or still have to find my first layer/adhesion problem. Thanks for the info.

[@thePatHammon]

i go glue and raft. i like the raft just so i don't damage the prints when removing them from the bed. i actually clean the glue off after every print because i use a .2mm nozzle and excessive glue build up sometimes prevents adequate flow on the first layer leading to clogging

[@bruceyoung1343]

Purple glue stick has been workin great for me. Wash off windex and paper towels after 2-3-4 prints

[@bruceyoung1343]

Maybe get 5 really BIG prints covering most of bed.

[@sargedutch1085]

I use the purple color glue stick for kids.. Works great for the last 3 yrs. Love your channel. I will get your suggestion on Avery Glus stick.

[@Exanion]

3D Lac where needed, especially to protect the glass and coating from PETG. IMHO: On the stock CR10v2 I put multiple layers of Lac before cleaning it. The carbonized glass on the Ender 3 pro works best when it’s clean and level the bed just a bit closer. Glue sticks looks so nasty on the build plate, I think that’s the only reason that I don’t use it.

[@sausage5849]

I gotta the 4 screw bed levelling system that never seems get get level. Adjust one side and the other goes out, so I level to three points and use glue and it works great!

[@BillyBobJimPatton]

4 point leveling is really a bad choice for actually leveling things. I wish they picked a 3 point system

[@s8nlx661]

I absolutely love my new spring steel textured bed.... what I don't like is that it was almost 150 bucks for my ender5 plus lol. Other than that gluestick is gold👍

[@binarybrian]

Good advice. Any glue stick is good. I use glue stick from the dollar store that comes 3 to a pack. Works just as well as anything more expensive that I've tried.

[@trevorrichert12309]

I highly recommend glue sticks they work amazing for me printing on a glass bed can never really get it to work well consistent but with glue almost every time

[@Cyberion78]

i use a magnetic plate with a structured surface since then i don't need glue or hairspray. everything adheres perfectly during the printing and you can still easily separate it from the plate. I had to cut the plate to size but it was worth it ..... by the way, great video 👍 ( Hopefully nobody will notice that I rarely write or speak in English * sneak out of the room quickly * )

[@alansmithy85]

I've found that after 5-10 prints on my two Ender 3 v2s with textured glass beds, its more a creeping bed dis-leveling than surface facing. However, I found that "Easy tack" stencil spray is great! Its a stickier bond than hairspray but not as hardcore as low tack 3M sprays. I don't recommend 3M sprays as they can bond parts way too hard. I know it works from trying once, and only once. I protect my controls and hardware from over spray with the shop rags. I forget eth file on thingiverse but I've also been using a tire depth gauge clip tool thing that has made precise bed leveling way easier.

[@Ange1ofD4rkness]

I have been using PEI sheets for ... 5 - 7 years I think. They come stock with LulzBot printers. I do occasionally "clean" my PEI sheets, using sandpaper and a alcohol/water mixture, to restore the adhesion if I see it going (I don't do if often for the record, maybe a total of 5 - 10 times). Also cleaning them before prints is easy. Isopropyl Alcohol and a a cotton ball. Super easy, and it's a routine.

[@Chef_jdm]

Hi Chuck, could you make a video about the best way to dry filament? I feel like it’s a common issue that many of us have that few of us know how to fix. Thanks!

[@nigozeroichi2501]

My QQ-S PRO, PLA welds itself to the bed, I've broken several prints trying to get them off, ABS and PETG start off ok but pop off halfway through, found Elmer's purple today, so far every ABS part I've printed for my Voron build has stayed put👍and no warping

[@tetraliteproducts542]

What I do: On my Lulzbot Taz6 and Prusa printers with smooth PEI bed surfaces when printing PLA or PETG, I clean with IPA before each print. Occasionally I lightly rub with a Scotchbrite pad, instead of steel wool or fine sandpaper like some folks recommend. For TPU on the same PEI surface I use glue stick to help release, otherwise the TPU will bond much too strongly to the PEI and can damage it.

[@KenpoBill]

Do you clean the gluestick between each print or will the glue last for several prints?

[@FilamentFriday]

Several prints

[@KenpoBill]

@@FilamentFriday thank you. All of a sudden my Eryone prints stopped sticking even though I cleaned the bed and rechecked my Z. I ised a glue stick today and got 2 solid prints so far. Again thanks.

[@smugtomato5972]

Glue stick is definitely also great for getting prints to release. I recently got a glass plate from Creality and no matter what I did I could not get the prints to release properly, applying a bit of glue stick made all those problems go away as the print sticks great when the bed is heated and lifts right off without any force when the bed cools down.

[@josephpk4878]

I'd recommend trying this method: Run your glue-stick in one direction and LIGHTLY coat the plate as consistently as possible (doesn't matter if you get complete coverage - just even distribution), then do the same, perpendicular to your original passes. Wait for it to dry. Grab a MISTING spray bottle (fine droplets) and mist the plate until it's covered. Take a foam brush and paint out the wetted glue in one direction (wipe any pooling right off the plate and onto a rag). Let it dry and now you have a very consistent and thin layer of glue, with no clumping or buildup.

[@Bitplanebrother]

i am Printing for 5 years now on my old Makerbot clone (ctc bizer) on a glas bed made out of a old Prictureframe and Gluestick on it..you don´t even have to clean it after every print...just a small damp sponge to reaply the resedue after a print..then preheat to dry it again.. im printing Pla mainly..but ABS and Petg work well too... greetings from germany

[@gazgadgets]

I love the WhamBam pex but I have had a roll of PLA filament that just would not stick to it. Switched back to the old build tack (still didn't stick) so added glue stick and voila! perfect every time washed the surface between prints and had no issues. So I swear by glue stick too - only when needed.

[@AgostinoBuvesz]

I also use glue stick quite often. But sometimes it makes me mad, because at the end, I just can't get my print off the glass bed after using glue stick with bigger prints.

[@Mohammad_Qasem]

Same here. Usually it means you are using too much glue. I use a no name brand i found here in Sweden and it works wonderfully. It is super strong and if a lay more than 2 thin layers of it then whatever i print will stick super hard. Can't even get a painters knife underneath it. Sometimes i hit it with hammer and screwdriver 🙃 and it comes off 😅but thats just because I don't want to use water so the glue doesn't melt but if you just put a bit of water around it you will be able to get underneath and get it off.

[@toddcoello6461]

I've always said u don't need to clean the bed like people always say. I look at my bed like a cast iron pan. The more u use it the more seasoned it gets. Maybe 1 time a month I heat the bed scrap it with the scrapper and reapply a layer of glue stick and hardly ever have issues.

[@squidcaps4308]

I use acrylates, ie, hairspray. Better than glue stick for most prints but it does not stick as well, but pops out very nicely. If i need to protect corners from lifting, i add extra adhesion with Tabs plugin in Cura, or add gluestick. I made a cardboard box with open top and bottom that i pop in the bed, then add the hairspray, so it doesn't go everywhere. I wash it off every now and then and apply the main coating away from the printer... that is an option.. remove the bed, then spray.. For touchups, i use the box. I also started to sand the hairspray to a matte finish, MUCH better than just glass. The right hairspray is the hypoallergic kind, it has the least amount of additives.

[@arnolduk123]

I like your videos Shep, they are mostly very informative. I'm not sure why you didn't show how to apply the glue stick to the bed or what if any residue is left behind on the base of the print ?

[@reneehellyer2360]

I'm new and wondered the same thing. I need everything drawn out for me right now ;)

[@jonathanrau4676]

Thks alot, new to this and had problems on my 2nd print 😮 ive already heard for the glue stick metod but was skeptical but thats confirmed what i heard, ive tried and it works🎉

[@JGDeRuvo]

What do you mean exactly by “one swipe of glue stick?”

[@tonnictv]

Who cares what others think. If it works for you, great! If it doesn't, don't do it. Good advice for different options

[@mx118racer]

I tried a few things when starting out . Ender 3 . Found that non textured glass and a swipe of fresh glue stick every print has worked for me . Yes it take bit extra time to clean bed and re apply everytime but I don't think I've had a bed failure for over a year. Oh and a tip when I print abs first layer is 50deg bed then 2nd layer set to 90deg . Cause I found the glue stick fries when bed starts at 90deg.

[@ArchonLicht]

Ok, but HOW do I user it exactly? Do I need to pre-heat the bed? What temperature? How much glue-stick do I need to put on? How do I know it's enough, too little or to much?

[@raifdodds4389]

I would love to see a how to video. I just can’t get Petg to stick to my glass bed and I really want to try the glue just not sure how to apply it.

[@ArchonLicht]

@@raifdodds4389 I actually found one video about that, they apply glue stick to the cold bed, smear it left to right first to cover the whole bed, then wait for a minute for it to dry a bit, and then do same top-to-bottom. So essentially two layers of glue stick applied perpendicular to each other, a layer first, wait to dry for 1-2 min, the second layer. Worked for me with PLA on metal bed.

[@melickon]

Specialized 3D glue is the best and cheapest option. I got my bottle for $10 year and a half ago and used 2/3 of its volume for now. It is sticky at print temperatures and print pops up by itself when it cools down after print. I use Glue stick for PETG to _lower_ adhesion to print table as it may break glass (and it happened to me couple of times before)

here in Brazil we have a specific brand of hair spray that its so sticky that you can lift the bed with your hand placing your hand on the top of the print surface XD too bad we have to clean it more often

[@edandrascik3579]

Thanks. For the tip. I was having a big issue with the prints coming off in the beginning of the print and then right before it finished. I use an ender 3 pro with the platter, ender pad and a glass. Swiped on glue and let sit and started to print. It appears to be working so far on a sample print. My platter is level also.

[@giahuy2201_]

I used to go with glue stick and like you said it worked well on glass bed. Until one day, I found a sand-paper-like textured build surface that came with every spool of filament I had bought. Sticked it to the top of my glass bed and I never have to worry about cleaning off glue residue every other print.

[@kenbad]

Overture?

[@giahuy2201_]

@@kenbad yep

[@kenbad]

I hate their tpu so far lol, cannot get it to stick to clean glass, hairspray, OR gluestick.

[@giahuy2201_]

@@kenbad Why didn't you use the included build surface. Its been saving me lot of time and efforts cleaning the bed

[@aellis6692]

It's not the right size for an ender 3

[@Flashhawk2k]

I use a 1:4 White Glue & Water mix in a bottle, applied with a foam brush does the same and may be even cheaper. Also it might be, that it can be applied a little more even. At least i think it is. I found that recipe before I heard about Glue sticks and "sticked" to it :D

[@MrTegidTathal]

Honestly, soap and water on PEI does more than scuffing it in my opinion. That being said, I used glue stick to print PETG on my PEI bed and noticed how well EVERYTHING stuck from all kinds of laydown heights and flow rates... if I have a tricky print, I'll put down gluestick to make it easier. I think a lot of the "hate" comes from people using it as a crutch because they can't properly tram their beds. Once you CAN tram and dial in your z offset, making life easier by applying some glue makes a ton of sense and it's GREAT for extending the life of a bed. One trick I use is to only "mostly" clean the glue stick, it leaves a thin sticky film all over the bed again and I get more use out of the same application.

[@stephieg]

I put the glue on while my bed is heating and then afterwards clean it off with window cleaner and a blunt edge scraper - works great.

[@MobileDecay]

What about printing a bed surface seeing as rafts work well?

[@SpaceDoggo.]

Another thing that works really well is blue masking tape. I have it on my ender 3 v2 and it works really well. I have only printed in pla sofar

[@arnolduk123]

Tried that but the tape peels and curls and the glue drys when the bed heats. I have to confess I have used sugar and water solution in the past that worked quite well also, although I don't resort to these drastic measures anymore now I've worked out how correctly calibrate my printer and slicer settings.

[@steve_beatty]

I don't use glue stick much as I use tpu mostly for qaudcopter parts but will use Magi Goo (?) glue stick for hard plastic prints to help avoid the occasional plate of moving plastic spaghetti ...