Inside a LIDL USB rechargeable work light - with schematic

[@jpnixon]

I met Clive today!!! Randomly saw him sitting in a bakery shop, so I went and said hello. If your reading this Clive I hope you don't mind random people just coming up to you asking you electronic questions.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yes, that's OK. Good to meet you today.

[@jpnixon]

@user-gx6jb6wc5g also forgot to mention im like minded sparkie gay.

[@fredbloggs5902]

@@bigclivedotcomSuggestion: Inside an induction cooker hob. (if you haven’t already).

[@mxslick50]

I also met Clive in 2022 whilst at the TT races on Isle of Man. He is a great person and it was a pleasure to chat with him in person.

[@gregorythomas333]

Actually I like it when these LED lights have none of that SOS/flashing crap...though being able to dim it would be nice I am will to forego that to keep it simple.

[@Reprint001]

I do wonder how many people have ever been rescued because they used the SOS feature on their torch or work light. 🤔 I'm guessing it's close to... hmmm zero.

[@michaeltempsch5282]

Loosen [one end of] suitable amount of current setting resistors and stick a switch in-between? Keeping them in circuit for full brightness, or temporarily cutting them out for reduced)

[@lifeai1889]

diode gone wild make a video about it released at same time quincidentally

[@michaeltempsch5282]

DiodeGoneWild just put out an interesting video neutering the [side] strobe and SOS modes on a flashlight (with additional "area" lightning in the handle)

[@lifeai1889]

@@michaeltempsch5282 also the main one is possible, with low pass filter, he got lucky that the side led do not have white flashing mode

[@twocvbloke]

It makes a nice change to see a light that is either 'on' or 'off' and no blinky flashy modes that often are advertising a petrol station brand with their "SO SO SO" mode, though that said I have a COB LED light thing that came out o a box o' tat that inside is 4xAAs, a resistor and a physical switch, so, truly On or Off operation... :P

[@Ironic1950]

Thank Heavens they resisted the temptation to put an utterly pointless flashing mode! An on/off mode is all that is needed...

[@polymath9372]

_"I could potentially run this [battery] flat"_ - congratulations on the precision of your statement!

[@paulsengupta971]

But he's going to resist doing it currently.

[@Shaun.Stephens]

Thanks Clive, as always I appreciate you still taking the time to load videos for us while you're on the job. Cheers.

[@Plons0Nard]

I purchased one a few months ago. And like you, I opened it up immediately. And cut out 3 of the 4 resistors. For a worklight, I prefer a 3W over a 10W. I like it 👍🏻🤝🏻🇳🇱

[@katho8472]

So many screws and connectors. So serviceable and hackable!

[@DodgyFPV]

You just know they looked at the booking and quickly and frantically changed rooms around to ensure you get one with a fire detector

[@DrCassette]

A few years ago I bought an almost identical work light, sold under the store brand of a German home improvement store. Different colours (yellow and black), but the plastic case is the same. My light has a barrel connector instead of the USB-C connector. It came with a barrel connector to USB-A cable and a USB power supply, but confusingly that was somehow only rated by the manufacturer to put out 4.7V. A teardown confirmed the light contains a TP4056 charge controller so it is safe to use with normal 5V USB. The circuit on the back board is much more simple with only an 8 pin microcontroller in addition to the TP4056. It is also smaller. The LED board has fewer but larger SMD resistors. I replaced the original 18650 cell with a matched pair of 18650s salvaged from a laptop battery, I made sure to transfer the original 18650's protection board over to the new setup. The battery cavity in the plastic case has more than enough space for two 18650s instead of only one. The original 18650 was rated 2200mAh, but was really only 1500mAh. Now my light has generous 5200mAh capacity and runs a very long time on one charge :)

[@robertburrows6612]

I find lidl tools are not a bad quality at a good price , there tools are worth considering

[@Bigrignohio]

The lack of "disco mode" is a plus. I agree that 2 or 3 levels of illumination would be better.

[@tonyweavers4292]

That looks well made. Ideal to keep in the car.

[@porklaser]

I hope he enjoys making these videos as much as I enjoy watching them. Tearing gadgets down to see how they work scratches a primal itch I've had ever since I took apart my fisher price record player when I was a wee two year old. Never gets old for me.

[@bozilla9975]

One of my favorite hack to do with lights like this is to remove the current limiting resistors and replace them with AMC7135 constant current driver. The wiring is really simple and it maintains a constant brightness to the light output throughout the entire battery discharge range.

[@zebo-the-fat]

Nice, no SOS! I would be tempted to add a switch to give a manual bright/dim option.

[@ShaunieDale]

Nothing to stop you from removing some of the LED current limiting resistors and then fitting a small toggle switch and additional resistor to give yourself a bright/dim option.

[@diffmull]

One annoying thing about these sort of devices is that often you cannot use them and charge them at the same time, or at least use them from external power even if they don't charge. What minimal changes are needed in these circuits to make that possible?

[@bigclivedotcom]

You can add an extra TP4056 module to some devices to allow charging while in use.

[@chrissavage5966]

Oh for the days of the Ladybird Books Magnets, Bulbs & Batteries...... Can't even have a simple lamp without a processor & software these days.

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

Thanks Clive. I like to sketch out your diagrams. Somewhat cathartic actually. Thinking of publishing, Clive's Clusters, and The Meanig of Life😉

[@wiseoldfool]

When I get my time machine working, I'm going to go back and invent the Light Emitting Triode. I think it could be quite useful!.

[@dogwalker666]

Well triode valves did emmit a gentle orange glow 😊

[@kuebbisch]

​@@dogwalker666No, those are FET's with a pilot light 😂

[@dogwalker666]

@@kuebbisch Ohh I see, 😉

[@DickHolman]

@@kuebbisch :D

[@Ni5ei]

Being a Parkside tool, it would make much more sense it would run off of a tool battery.

[@BrianLough]

They make one that runs off tool batteries. It looks kind of similar to this style wise but it's 3 or 4 times the size. Runs off their 20v battery system, comes with an adapter for their 12v battery system and also an included wall wart. It's way more powerful than this one and has a couple of brightness modes.

[@SusanAmberBruce]

Another great video, thanks Big Clive. I don't like the multi function switch we get on a lot of these type of lights, they all seem to start on high and then click lower which is the opposite way it should go to my way of thinking, I agree with Dylan Tomas "Do not go gentle into that good night" but it's a case of when I'm ready and not to get full brightness when you're stumbling in the dark during a power cut in the middle of the night.

[@dans.channel.]

I bought one of these earlier in the week, from Lidl, same brand name but different colours. It’s great, small, light and bright, best feature is the one click to turn it off, not the multiple clicks while it goes through different brightness settings. Could do with a better battery in it though.

[@arilemmke5166]

I especially like the Lidl Parkside hybrid led worklight model: PLSA 20-Li A1 Have bought multiple specimens - using both Lidl battery system devices. A1 is the version. Nowadays battery and device versions are typically B something.

[@mickestahl6178]

I has been a try to create a common European language but it have never succeeded, How many people can talk Esperanto?? It's out there but no one will use it.. We are all to pride of our own language. I'm a Swede and my native language is of cause Swedish but I have learned English since I was about 9 years old. But the real learning took place when I started to work in the IT industry, all the documentation and presentations was in English or US English. Later I had to have contacts outside of Sweden and needed to talk and listen and now I have no problem to understand UK or US English. I still have some problem to find the correct words when I speak but not so it is a big problem. // Love your educational videos so keep them comming./ Love from Sweden. Micke

[@wisher21uk]

Looks pretty good that, thanks Clive 😊

[@drruncmd]

Smoke alarm above the work bench. They knew you were coming Clive!

[@RFC3514]

0:22 - No, it wouldn't. In fact, I'd say learning at least two (ideally three or more) substantially different languages does more for one's intelligence (not to mention understanding of different cultures) than almost _anything_ else. A famous linguist (Benjamin Lee Whorf) once said "language gives shape to our thoughts and determines what we can think about". Being able to think about the same thing in multiple languages (with different grammar, different etymology, etc. ) often gives you insights that you'd never get if you could only speak one, in the same way that solving Fermat's famous "last" theorem required establishing a connection between two branches of mathematics that were previously thought to be completely unrelated. Only someone "fluent" in both would have been able to figure it out. Speaking multiple languages (and being able to code in multiple languages, and use multiple numeric bases, etc.) is essential to really understand the distinction between reality and _descriptions_ of reality, or between tools, processes and results, etc..

[@davadoff]

I think you’re getting correlation mixed up with causation, here…

[@RFC3514]

@@davadoff - No, I'm not (also, causation is a form of correlation). There are plenty of studies showing that vocabulary (even slang vocabulary) correlates with intelligence, but intelligence won't magically give you more vocabulary (because you can't guess which words other people use). I really don't think it's that controversial to say that *education* influences intelligence. There are plenty of studies about _that,_ too. If you learn only one language, there are whole concepts and grammatical constructs that you'll probably _never_ come into contact with, no matter how "genetically intelligent" you are. On the other hand, someone equally intelligent who _did_ learn those languages will have an understanding of those concepts and structures. What gave them that understanding? Was it their innate intelligence? No, it was learning how to express their thoughts in a different language (different grammar, especially). And it helps with phonetics, too (i.e., ability to recognise and make different sounds, which influences how well you pick up foreign languages), but that doesn't really have a direct impact on _reasoning_ the way that vocabulary and grammar do.

[@phils4634]

We don't have Lidl Down Under (yet)< however ALDI usually sell similar things, so I'll keep my eye open for this neat and useful gadget. 5V charging makes this sort of thing really handy, especially as a vehicle breakdown light. Rather than chopping off the resistors randomly, it's useful to replace them all with a variable pot. That way you have a conveniently fully variable light output. "Cheap as chips" from the usual suppliers 🙂

[@MrDuncl]

I got through several of Aldi's Camping Lights that run off three AA batteries. They were useful as a night-light in the bathroom to avoid tripping over the cat. However, they use a pot to control the brightness and after a years use the pots would become intermittent only working in certain positions. One day I must get around to repairing them but for the past few years we have been using a light with a simple on-off switch.

[@phils4634]

@@MrDuncl Contact cleaner / lubricant seems to help preserve longevity. Mind you single turn pots are very cheap from the usual suppliers. Even multi-turn wire-wounds are pretty "affordable" thanks to China (e.g. $1.99 with free shipping)!

[@RichieReportsUK_UKCNews]

I think many of Aldi & Lidl products, (both food & non food) are made by the same companies.

[@Morgarathable]

I do have an almost identical lamp (although in a different colour, and with micro USB), and i replaced that 18650 with two bigger capacity ones in parallel, and that easily tripled the run time of it. For an equivalent of like 5 euro, and two recycled batteries, it's quite useful little thing.

[@acmefixer1]

Thanks, Clive. You're doing remarkably well considering that your working "in the field." I wonder if the MCU can be reprogramed?

[@bigclivedotcom]

If it's a standard pinout, then you could program one from scratch.

[@lifeai1889]

@@bigclivedotcom most case its otp cuz theres no need for a expensive mcu in this case

[@lmwlmw4468]

Nice, a simple on and off...!!!!

[@carlubambi5541]

Seems like a well made light

[@gertjanvandermeij4265]

Yes PARKSIDE is cheap, but they are still very good tools, for their price !!! I have many PARKSIDE tools from LIDL, and they all work very well !

[@MeteorMark]

There was hope for a universal language, Esperanto 😉🖖

[@hardergamer]

I have the same light, and i use it as a night/bed light, but I have moded mine by removing the low AH 18650 battery and replacing it with 2x 3AH 18650 cells.

[@reflectingdarkness8070]

Hi Clive o/ Long time watcher, love your content! I had the great pleasure of seeing the Edinburgh Military Tattoo 2024. The performers, performances, music, singing, effects and production were wonderful. Can I ask a couple of things... Firstly, how did they change the colours of the Scottish dancers? And secondly, can we get a teardown of a wand? You know the ones I'm talking about. xD Much thanks for your content, I love that you come to my city and you are part of such a wonderful show. Keep doing what you're doing

[@bigclivedotcom]

The colour change dresses have been evolving for a few years. The trick is magnets to hold the fabric in place, and when pulled down sharply the outside of the first layer drops down and becomes the inside of the second layer. If you mean the large colour changing battons they are Titan tubes and each has an RF link to the lighting network. These ones are too new to be opened yet.

[@d.t.4523]

Thank you, keep working.

[@pluggedfinn-bj3hn]

It is annoying how many cheap USB-C charged devices can't be charged with C to C cables. Have few such devices, a small pocket worklight that has magnets to stick it somewhere for example. I know I won't be able to do it with my current skills, but how much should it be to fix it? Resistor between specific pins? They're probably unreachable on cheap small circuits :/

[@SL0viper]

It's just 2x 5.1K resistors on the CC1 and CC2 pins. Simple enough but difficult to solder in a lot of cases given the small sizing on the USB-C port and (usually) the PCB surrounding it.

[@pluggedfinn-bj3hn]

@@SL0viper Hmm yeah. I've so far only done throughhole stuff so it'll be quite a way out for me. But maybe some day.. (Although, as smart chargers become more common cheap products will probably just start supporting them)

[@DrAHorn]

You don't even need two resistors, if you short together CC1 and CC2 on the connector then it will work fine as lomg as you don't use a"smart" high current (>2A) cable. (It also wouldn't be able to talk USB >2.0, but I don't think that is an issue.) One trick: You can find the CC pins by testing which pins have 5V when connected with an USB C cable.

[@DooMMasteR]

And even large companies like Bosch fail that test 😥

[@davadoff]

@@DrAHorn usb-c is 3A & 20v by default with 48v & 5A support as optional extras.

[@andic6676]

Bear in mind that removing any of the resistors in the parallel network feeding the led "torch" will reduce the network's power dissipation capacity. However, load current will fall, too, so the effect on the remaining resistors may be smaller than expected.

[@JonathanSwiftUK]

Right, there's a Lidl up the road, and a Lidl down the road, which one shall I choose. Decisions, decisions. 😜

[@zzoinks]

Walmart in United States sells a super nice "Hyper Tough 500 lumen" compact work light for 10 USD/7.60 pounds/9 EUR. It has a flashlight mode and floodlight mode (it has two lights on it), and both are bright. Flashlight has 2 intensities. It has an aimable base (several predefined positions allowable) with small hook and magnets. Dust cover for ports and different buttons for the flashlight/floodlight. My criticism is that there's no clear low battery indicator. One time it kept turning off after a few seconds and I think that means battery was running flat. Oddly, a few days later it stayed on fine for at least a few minutes but i charged it anyway. Ergonomics wise, is a bit awkward to hold so it carry strap or handle is needed. Not sure about battery life. And the buttons are hard to read and too close together/too similar in shape to be able to activated by feel.

[@zzoinks]

The hook is pretty small and won't hold on to surface very securely. A rotatable and carabiner type hook would be a lot better

[@dcallan812]

How much did it cost, its very well built for LIDL. A half power setting would be nice just make it last that bit longer if you dont need so much light output. Nice item 2x👍

[@Jimmyfisher121]

Thanks Clive.

[@nomusicrc]

That's a whole lot of circuitry for just a light that goes on and off

[@brianm6337]

I wish there were Lidls out here (I am in the midwest/ Colorado end of the country). I need one for my 3d printer, so I can see what the hell it does sometimes. No SOS mode? GOOD.

[@alt8620]

Tbf lidl tools are preatty good imo (now at kaufland too)

[@stamfordly6463]

I believe Douglas Adams covered the idea of a universal language or at least universal comprehension: “Meanwhile, the poor Babel fish, by effectively removing all barriers to communication between different races and cultures, has caused more and bloodier wars than anything else in the history of creation.”

[@chox2001]

I much prefer just on and off, I often wonder how many people use the sos mode. And if their rescuer said afterwards they saw the sos from the light in B&Q carpark at 7pm tuesday and found the discarded light because the owner tried 19 different combinations to turn it off 🤞👏👍🙏

[@Liz0rdX80]

That light looks hackable And got another LED light related stuff on YT

[@gnurgl5157]

it's a little lidil light.

[@michaelathens953]

I've taken apart a whole bunch of similar little work lights and almost none of them fully utilized the whole battery space. Most of them had the cheapest, lowest capacity 18650 cells I have ever seen (like 1000 MaH or less).

[@18robsmith]

Smoke detector over the work bench? - They've obviously heard your reputation and installed a (in)appropriate safety system.

[@Dennan]

Big Clive video

[@meowchin]

4:10 very disappointed to see another device skimping out on CC resistors. It's literally 2 resistors. How much would that cost them? A cent?

[@MrKillerno1]

So, being from home made you use colors in your drawings? Nice!

[@andyreact]

Audio is much better on this vid, have you added something to absorb reflections?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Different, less boxy area.

[@nrdesign1991]

Pretty much all Lidl stuff is decent for what you pay. And generally everything does what its supposed to for surprisingly long considering the prices.

[@DW-indeed]

And they all go hand in hand, hand in hand through their....

[@christastic100]

I guess you could also add a low light toggle switch to bypass a resistor if you wanted.

[@paulsengupta971]

Ok, Clive, here's a hack you can do. Install a switchable resistor network (i.e. switch and some resistors) so that you can switch the brightness of it.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It could be done by putting the switch in series with one of the leads to the LED panel and having a resistor in parallel with the switch.

[@Tegelane5]

10:03 there is no need for solvent to take out hot glue, I would (and have) use needle nose pliers- if those get grasp /bite then it can be used to pull out glue. There seems to be quite thick film of it, then pliers get good grip and it would be easy to pull glue away. There might be some under battery but I doubt it.

[@DelticEngine]

Thanks for a helpful and informative video, Clive. It's good to know such a light is relatively simple to maintain and is also modifiable. It may not look like much on the outside, but it would appear to be quite good on the inside. I wonder if the RGY combo LEDs are also used in traffic light control systems to indicate signal status? Otherwise, RGY is generally a more useful combination for 'all okay' and two types of error condition, for example. Any chance of a teardown of a traffic light controller? One of those portable radio-linked and battery-powered types used in roadworks, perhaps, or something a bit different or unusual?

[@MicraHakkinen]

0:22 "Wouldn't it be great if everybody just spoke one language" I believe the most successful attempt at this is the Esperanto language. Despite being created in 1887 it is currently the world's most widely spoken constructed international auxiliary language.

[@user-mo5hz9kp6y]

We all speak human body language. Instinctively our subconscious mind reads some of it. Learn to read it and you can tell a lot about a person's thoughts. I always remember that when questioned a liar always looks to their right. Its due to the hardwiring connecting the eyes to the constructive side of the brain. Looking to their left means their using the bit involving memory. Type how to tell a liair in a search engine if you want more info.

[@davemillan3360]

Yes Esperanto, the language created as a new standard. Making that there is now an extra language adding to the problem lol.

[@davewood4604]

Yes, it's English. If you watch most SciFi you will see that even aliens speak English

[@Blinkerd00d]

The other time was from creation, up until the Tower of Babel.

[@purple-cho]

The phrase "constructed international auxiliary language" sounds incredibly specific, which makes me genuinely wonder: aside from Esperanto, are there any other (lesser-known) such languages currently in existence/use? Or is Esperanto the most widely-used one by default through being the only one (or at least, the only one that's not gone extinct)?

[@happy543210]

I bought a lidl light to light my little room.

[@nexpro6985]

I have a different Parkside worklight and its two worst features are the short run time on full power and the insanely slow charging rate.

[@pootispiker2866]

USB-A USB supplies will always output 5 volts, or will output 5 volts when a load is detected. They don't need any kind of information beyond a sufficient current draw to produce 5 volts. QC chargers will do this.

[@steve64464]

I noticed this "parkside" like to cram electronics into the housing real tight to the extent the 18650 powered staple gun they had cut through the wires model "PAT 4 C4"

[@BeeKisses]

Press F for Clive, he still has to suffer the crap hotel room

[@harkbelial]

Parkside of the moon

[@Rocketboy92]

I bought one just like it in Jula (Swedish store). Only difference was the color. But when i bought it, it only had a barrel plug so I attached a micro usb instead only to discover the new ones have usb-c 🤣

[@Acamperfull]

Mine is Jula too it was 99SEK with micro usb-B now it is 199SEK and has USB C!

[@AdmiralQuality]

LOL! Do you bring a color printer with you when traveling? Videos of printouts of still photographs! Only on Big Clive's channel! ;) (I'm just teasing, it's actually a good way to present it and your printouts always look great.)

[@bigclivedotcom]

There is a dedicated channel printer on this job.

[@craignehring]

Bravo nice info sir

[@Roethorn_pb]

Any hack suggests to solve smart chargers perhaps disrupting internal current/amperage?

[@jimduk]

Question to CLive, there looks to be enough space in the unit to squeeze an additional cell, do you think with inclusion of a cell balancer module between the 2 cells and the lidl PCB, would these charger circuit handle still work safely ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I tested and a second cell in parallel can fit in. As long as they are very close to the same voltage when connected in parallel they will act as a single larger cell.

[@getcartercarpark.]

What resistor values could be added to which pins to allow the lamp to charge from a smart USB C charger. I ask because I only use Apple USB C charger because of previous bad experiences of use cheep alternatives. Thanks Clive for yet another very interesting video. Keep up the hard work for us all to watch. Kilo Watt.

[@michaeltempsch5282]

IIRC, a 5k1 resistor on each of the 2 CC lines, to ground.

[@barrygreengrass3379]

Hi Clive, I bought 2 of these lights this week from Lidl mine are yellow, maybe some differences. Battery is 2200mAh I checked the capacity using Opus BT-C3100 it came out at 1310mAh. The 9 LED resistors are 1.5 (yours are 2.7) how many do you think could I cut off? The circuit board is different to yours; the microcontroller has 8 pins no number also has the 4056 chip many other differences compared to yours. Could I heat the LED circuit board with a hot air gun before trying to unsolder the resistors?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I tend to recommend just gripping the sides of the resistors and breaking them off if you're just taking some out of circuit.

[@nigelgilbert8820]

I bought a couple yesterday, and got pretty much the same cell capacity. My cells were manufacured in 2021 which may be the reason. I took one of the 1R5 resistors off and the light output is barely diminished.

[@purvel]

Very interesting! I very recently got a yellow/black one myself, otherwise identical. You mentioned they could have added a microcontroller for light levels, but could you also replace the resistors you said were "removable",with pots, to get an adjustable light?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Pots are generally rated for very low power.

[@anthonytidey2005]

It is German design, not mainly crap, unsafe Chinese design. Like the sightly extra expense of the Lidl 2 connectors foe battery and led board.

[@anthonycampbell1726]

We do have one language it's called a digital translator, 🤣. Translation technologies are quite adequate especially if you pay properly for them and actually distribute them more necessary. 😅

[@kevb1816]

Off to Lidl this weekend then, not that I need another work light…. Lidl and Aldi stuff is generally pretty decent especially at the price point. I need 4 identical multimeters for a project, Aldi had some a week or so ago but waiting to see if they get reduced when next lot of tools come in 😂

[@bigclivedotcom]

I just bought an Aldi meter. Note that their diode test only tests at 2V so can't light most LEDs. But it's fine for testing diodes.

[@MrDuncl]

The main problem with either shop is that things like this light are only available for something like six weeks a year. The Plasma Cutters (yes really) they had in Lidl seemed to hang around for longer though. It surprises me when they have such specialist equipment alongside pegs and hoodies.

[@hoverbovver]

Lid today had a small wood lathe for £55. I thought that a fairly amazing price. I can't see Clive dissecting one though.

[@bigclivedotcom]

@@hoverbovver I saw that, but I'd prefer a full size steel lathe.

[@paulsengupta971]

@@MrDuncl They're getting the plasma cutter back in next week.

[@JustHere999dl]

I need a few of these, as I have very paranoid neighbors that accuse us of being drug dealers, yet we're retired raising a family and nobody ever comes to our house. The goal is to make them so paranoid that they continue to destroy themselves since all they do is shout insults and lies constantly. Should be a fun social experiment since I'm the worst person on Earth for always minding my own business.

[@DVAnl]

Maybe a dull question, what kind of printer and paper do you use for your macro photos? Been wondering it for years to be honest...

[@bigclivedotcom]

Epson ecotank and generic photo paper.

[@smalcolmbrown]

Thanks :)

[@fredbloggs5902]

Question: Can the lamp operate while charging (so the battery becomes effectively a UPS) ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The processor turns the output off.

[@Acamperfull]

@@bigclivedotcom Mine does not turn off while charging, but it is not a Parkside (it is a "Anslut" from Jula in se) and has a micro USB connector, the LED board has the same partnumber and otherwise it is identical.

[@tappel0]

Weird that they're using a microcontroller and still only one output mode. I'd prefer two modes (full / about two thirds) with the dim mode as default, and full brightness available with double click on the power button. Or a memory option so that the last used mode would be the default the next time it's powered on, but then it would need to have at least one bit of non-volatile memory, which that microcontroller probably does not have.

[@chrishartley1210]

Even when off the microcontroller has power so remembering last state is possible until the battery is removed.

[@phonotical]

That's a shame about the lies in the battery, makes you wonder if it's a simple mistake or they've been mis-sold and we're never tested before being out into products

[@helper328]

I hate it when work lights don't work when they are connected to power. I cut out the R9 transistor. The light turns on with the charger and standalone, but you lose charge indication and battery level indication. It always shows the yellow indicator, regardless of the actual battery level. You can trigger the green (fully charged) indicator if the battery is fully charged and you apply voltage to the old R9 contact to the mcv-side. If you drain the battery and after that you charged the light, the light does not work until you apply voltage to the old R9 contact.

[@tncorgi92]

It looks like there's enough space for an additional 18650 cell, you could double the run time.

[@ziginox]

It's extremely disappointing they couldn't be arsed to add fractions of a penny worth of resistors to make USB-C charging work. Without those, that's just a socket that vaguely resembles USB-C, really. Glad there's no dumb seizure-inducing modes, at least.

[@PeterEdin]

I have a small Parkside drill that has USB C but it's not a USB C.

[@UKprl]

Is it possible to estimate the wattage being used by the LEDs (or measure the voltage across those output resistors to see how hard (current-wise) the LEDs are being driven with)? I know it's something you usually mention when considering increasing the run-time. Thanks!

[@Acamperfull]

ca 1A, the voltage drop across the resistors i 0,68V

[@bigclivedotcom]

To test that I usually run the unit at a known voltage on the bench power supply and measure the current, then multiply it buy about 3V for the actual LED power.

[@mechrior]

The biggest problem I have with the "Parkside" range at Lidl is the fact that EVERY one I see the range in, there are ton of tools that require a battery, but not one bloody Lidl actually sells the battery!

[@bigclivedotcom]

Because of theft they keep the batteries in a secure area. You have to ask at the checkout.

[@mechrior]

@@bigclivedotcom Would be nice if there was a sign ANYWHERE in the store, like NEAR the tools? :P Thanks for letting me know, might actually have to pick some up if they are any good!

[@paulsengupta971]

It depends. Sometimes they have masses and masses of batteries and chargers on sale and no tools. It goes in cycles.

[@jadenhuibregtse501]

They could better organize circuits by adding a battery/solar premise to the supply voltage.

[@KeritechElectronics]

Bomb has been defused.

[@jimsvideos7201]

You know what? Screw a magnet to the handle and you have a pretty handy light for under the hood of your car.

[@RandyDarkshade2]

It's not a big light, it's a lidl light

[@UKprl]

I hope you are proud of yourself :)

[@yup-nope-yep]

​@@UKprl According to BC- *Pride of our selves 🙂☕

[@yup-nope-yep]

@RandySarkshade2 But Clive is still Big 😊

[@ralphj4012]

With all that fame and over 1mill subs you would think that your client could at least stretch to a Travelodge, rather than the dungeon.

[@newjerseybill3521]

We don't have all that cool Lidl stuff here in the states. :(

[@T2D.SteveArcs]

👍