Biqu H2 Clicking Noise Fix - Teardown and Adjustment

[@MandicReally]

Biqu has release a "V2" of the H2 Extruder that supposedly improved on this issue. I have not spoken to them or heard any reliable information as to whether it is actually better. They can be found on Amazon now: amzn.to/33RPYeT (Affiliate Link)

[@NexGen-3D]

No it isnt, I have the v2 and it clicks every retract, even as low as 5mm/s retraction speed, also this fix does nothing as there is no rotation movement available, in either direction, its the most annoying click clack noise, over powers the entire printers noise, the faster the retract speed the worse it gets, and at 5mm/s and slower, its strings, zits and blobs galore.

[@tiztrain]

I have just installed the v2 and the clicking noise does happen but it seems to be very minimal. Will update when I have tested more. Been running at 25mm

[@egoodchild]

@@tiztrain Any update?

[@arva1kes]

Nothing is changed in v2. This clicking noise comes from bearing seats and shaft being undersize. Bending the case is not correct way to fix it. It fixes it because it will bind the shaft in an angle. Your gears not will touch only on edges and will wear unevenly. Probably using around 10% of the gear area. The sound is coming from gears not being close enough to eachother and depending on which way the force hits, it will flop around your main shaft in there. it really would need a better case and new shaft, but some people are just adding some capton tape on bearings and shafts to make it a solid fit. permanent fix would be to either machine bearing holes bigger and fit a correct bushing in there or change to a bigger outer radius bearing (i think it can not be done for the one near motor gear).

[@KetaFPV]

Just found your channel this week and your videos are awesome to watch, the amount of detail you go into in practically all of your videos is great. I didn't even know the H2 had a PTFE tube in it's heatbreak. That actually shocked me tbh as I really expected it have an all metal heatbreak already. Good to know!

[@MandicReally]

Yea and sadly so far no one in the US seems to stock the all metal heat break for it. I’m sure that will change but it is a bit annoying at the moment.

[@josuehernandez4716]

@@MandicReally perhapsibly silly question but if I were to change my heat break for an all metal one, there would be no need for a ptfe tube in there, correct?

[@MandicReally]

@@josuehernandez4716 yes, that is what the "All Metal Heatbreak" will do, replace the need for the PTFE tube. That CAN mean more heat creep for materials like PLA though which can lead to clogs. So you should determine what you intend to print most and decide your heatbreak choice on that.

[@arva1kes]

i depends what you got. If you have biqu bx printer , it will come with all metal. If you get regular h2 (300c) it comes with ptfe. there is 500c h2 , which is all metal.

[@Raytenecks]

I was looking for videos for how to install my metal heatbreak upgrade, and I couldn't find any. I ended up watching yours in the hopes that you might hit on it... And you did! Thank you!

[@MandicReally]

Happy to be of help. Note the All-Metal heartbreaks are a bit shorter than the Teflon lined ones. Why? Idk, but they are. So just be aware you may have to adjust offsets after the swap.

[@Raytenecks]

@@MandicReally Thanks, yeah I'd heard that. But I haven't actually got the h2 installed yet so I've got all the calibration to do yet. :)

[@n5rd]

i've got 2 of these h2 units and both of these buggers have been giving me nonstop problems with getting jammed when going to extrude, i tried everything with disassembling and reassembly with no luck. but i did find a fix for my case. the screws that hold the motor to the metal housing of the hot end area needed to be loosened just a tiny bit to get a bit of a wiggle and then followed the procedure as normal, tightened the screws that go all the way through the whole assembly and the thumb gear spins soooo smoothly instead of not at all

[@MandicReally]

The “Before” & “After” here doesn’t show how big the difference is in person. Before it was maddeningly loud. After, it is a minor clock sound that I barely notice. The fans on some of my other machines drown out the sound honestly. Is it still a problem? Possibly, but only time will tell.

[@bigtreetech5117]

Hello, thank you for reviewing. But it shouldn't have happened. Our engineer will take your feedback into consideration and contact you later.

[@josuehernandez4716]

Best vid I’ve been able to find, my biqu randomly started under extruding. Gonna try your steps in about an hour, will let you know how it goes

[@naturalgamerjk606]

How did it go?

[@johnm.gerard1718]

UES,YES,YES I have the H2 V2s Revo HL version. I have the same minor clicking noise. I just installed mine. Including the 3DFUSED linear rail system on the X, Y, & Z axis. So I have not done A lot of testing. I ran a few 20mm cal cubes and 2-3 big music drum prints that take up the whole bed. Mine was clearly clicking when it would go around the corners of the CAL Cube. I tested this by totally tuning off Retraction for the cube test. Also in the big DRUM print about 260mm, Print the first 2 bottom layers I hear virtually no noise until it changes direction. Then I hear a little noise but not much. But printing the Honeycomb infill third layer I was not hearing any clicking. I have been playing around with Jerk and acceleration setting as well as spring tension. Hard to tell if that is helping much. I also tightened down my x, y belts that did make overall movement much smoother. I was printing at 200mm/s and it seemed pretty smooth. So I don't think on mine there is a miss steps. Also check your feed rate. BTT says up to 45mm/s. I tried that and there was grinding/clicking all over the place. When I went to 22mm/s in marlin firmware on my REVO missed steps went away.

[@marvingudel605]

For me the lever was slightly to wide, so when you tightened the screws it wouldn't move freely and thus wont grab the filament with the full strength. I filed it down a bit in the relevant part and now i can tighten the screws fully and everything fits much better overall.

[@g-kyotomam7109]

Was trying to find that cooling duct mounted from behind but it's nowhere to be found 🤔

[@MandicReally]

It is designed to work with my specific installation on my Ender 5 Plus, as such I never released the files. It would require folks to convert their machines to be like mine, and that isn't a system I'm willing to support or maintain. Sorry for that. I actually ended up replacing the duct in this video with another version that uses a larger 7530 fan as the single 5015 was insufficient for printing PLA.

[@andreiVJ]

Great video thank for it. How did you setup the BIQU H2? I mean did you use Klipper? I have some issue for my BIQU H2 making some high tone noice when extruding.

[@NathanielHatley]

Hey, could you point me in the direction of how you setup your part cooling with the Biqu H2? It looks like it's mounted behind the carriage, that's something I'd like to replicate on my Ender 3 V2 when my H2 gets here. Edit: I'm interested in the BLtouch mount as well.

[@MandicReally]

I have a full video coming showing how I did my install (just a build vlog) on the Ender 5 Plus. However I don't know how much of that will translate to an Ender 3. The design of the Ender 3 likely eliminates the ability to mount the part cooling fan behind the X gantry as it would hit the frame uprights. BL Touch Mount I can easily provide though. I'll show more of the design and details of it (as well as publish the files) once I get that other video up. That should be sometime this coming week hopefully.

[@NathanielHatley]

@@MandicReally You're right, I hadn't thought about the carriage traveling in front of the uprights. I was interested in it because I haven't been a big fan of the method most people use of tilting the fan out in front of the extruder. I'll try laying out everything when it comes in tomorrow and see if there are any other options that might work.

[@MandicReally]

@@NathanielHatley Yea I designed and printed one that put the fan where my BL Touch is now at first. It blocked the thumb-wheel which I didn't care for and put the BL Touch in the way of the fan (to the left). If I was doing an Ender 3... I'd probably put it up above the extruder entirely. Silly looking but out of the way. I personally am a huge fan of being able to have a clear line of sight to my extruder nozzle when printing.

[@eliotbouvier3710]

sometimes I run into problems for changing filaments. filaments blocks. have you ever run into this problem?

[@MandicReally]

Yep. It’s not easy to change filaments on. It seems to just chew up the end of the filament instead of feeding it in on a filament change. Maybe half the time I run into that. Which is not confidence inspiring when I have it on my Ender 5 plus where I may end up doing prints so large they require multiple spool changes.

[@sufyansaleem9771]

I finished setting mine up today, the noise is at about the same level as yours, I did apply PTFE grease in the gears which may have just dampened the noise, but it is printing well now.

[@MandicReally]

I’ve got maybe 100-150 hours in since this video. It got quieter, then louder again but hasn’t skipped a beat printing so far.

[@sufyansaleem9771]

@@MandicReally I'm tempted to just order some high quality gears and replace them but that point I may as well have gotten a hamera. We will see.

[@MandicReally]

@@sufyansaleem9771 I’m mildly wishing I’d gotten a Hemera, but I’m gonna run this till it acts up.

[@dooley9621]

Thanks for sharing mate, waiting on my H2 to arrive for my Ender 6

[@adrianbishop694]

At around around 7:30 shouldnt there be a bearing on the top of the gear in the bottom left of the main assembly?

[@MandicReally]

Yep, you can actually see the bearing on the desk behind my hand (toward the top of the screen). I realized my mistake and put it back in off camera. Just didn't discuss it because, I don't know, make a video longer just to point out a silly mistake? Meh.

[@TableTopBiker]

@@MandicReally I would counter with other may make the same silly mistake and not catch it. Making things "stupid simple" is a good thing.

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Also, there is the question on whether you should use oil or grease. I know that grease is much heavier than oil. I installed the 3DFUSED linear rail system and it does call for a drop of oil to Lubricate the bearings not grease but again I am concerned with Filament slippage either way.

[@edhiebert7949]

Mine came with the gear on the tension arm reversed. No bueno, but an easy fix. Now it is pretty silent except for retractions. I also found that it was more likely to bind depending on how you "clocked" the motor. Cable connector straight up works the best. Maybe it's just how I'm assembling it.

[@24KG24]

Hi, what retraction settings do you use for Biqu H2 Extruder?

[@morifpv6441]

I got a brand new one "V2", installed in in my E3v2 and the noise is still there. It seems it happen during the retraction. In your video there was nothing damaged but the noise still remains after inspection. I beileve that it is because the gears have a small backlash and when it turns reverse quickly (due short retraction), the "click" happens. Anyway hope this will not tear down the gears so fast and hope theylast long time even with the noise.

[@scoob8000]

Thank you for this video. I'm having the same exact issue on my v2 H2 with not even 2 hours of printing on it. Going to try your adjustment method. On a side note, what are you using for retraction for PLA? I'm seeing everywhere from 4mm/s to 45mm/s recommended. 45 is definitely louder than 4.

[@WestCoastADV]

mine works great with Rigid filaments but with Flexible filaments its useless... any luck with getting flex to work with the H2 ?

[@ponsaravanan]

So the fix is just disassamble and grease it?

[@thorinsworld7181]

I just bought and installed my Biqu H2 and am calibrating it for opitmal performance and started to notice a slight tick during retractions. As I am messing with retraction settings, it could be do to bad settings, but I am not sure as a lot of people tend to hear this clicking noise.

[@24KG24]

What retraction settings do you use?

[@juancarlosvarasgarcia7284]

i have the same problem whit the clicking sound. did u solv it?

[@trt969]

How u probe with bltouch without it going to up state?

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Also, at 200mm/s with the REVO HL.6mm nozzle my large print did stop printing the Honeycomb infill. So I am going to try raising the Current from 800mA recommended to 850mA. And you don't want to raise the Amps too high to burn out the motor. I am thinking it can handle up to 1A but do this at your own risk.

[@ckvsoft]

Nice Video. This helps me. I buyed a second H2 onw Werk ago. I got the New Version 2 of this extruder. The seems better quality. Can you give me hint of the Part cooling System. Where i can find this? Lg chris

[@scoob8000]

UPDATE: So after trying this adjustment the same thing happened. So I decided to run the extruder motor with gearbox off. I noticed it made a funny sound. I was EASILY able to stop the turning stepper motor with light pressure from my finger tip. I seemed to remember reading about another issue with the cable not making good contact on the board because it's the wrong connector. Reassembled the whole thing and popped the board cover off. While making the extruder run I can wiggle the cable and that gear skipping noise coming and goes. I can also see a tiny spark from that plug as I wiggle it. I'm going to try to find a better cable but in the mean time use some poster putty to hold the plug in place on the board

[@shangrill]

Excuse me, can you tell me where to get the mount you used for the h2 biqu

[@MandicReally]

I designed it myself. It requires converting the Ender 5 Plus to linear rail as the mounting uses the original v slot wheel holes for bolting. That’s why I haven’t released it yet.

[@shangrill]

@@MandicReally ah ok I wanted it to be mounted on the original base in the ender 5 plus

[@MandicReally]

@@shangrill I saw yesterday that Biqu has mounts on their website now. Zero idea if they are any good but they have an Ender 5 one: bigtree-tech.com/pages/download

[@oneheadlight8000]

What part cooling fan are you using there?

[@MandicReally]

All the mounts and parts are of my own design. This had a 5015 fan that wasn’t sufficient. I moved to a 7530 Fan and new duct design.

[@oneheadlight8000]

@@MandicReally Nice! Thanks for the quick reply.. Is the fan mount still available? I didn't see it glancing through your files but could have overlooked it. I print all PETG so don't need as strong of cooling and can use a 5015.

[@MandicReally]

@@oneheadlight8000 I n ever released my adapter / fan mount designs as they require a linear rail conversion. I didn't want to be reponsible for supporting an entire modification setup for the Ender 5s, so I haven't released it. There has been plenty of interest though. Maybe I should release it so folks can at least mod it to fit their own needs.

[@oneheadlight8000]

@@MandicReally Ah I didn't realize it was for a linear rail setup. No big deal. I did find a design I liked and modified another design for the mount to fit my needs. Thank you for the replies!

[@johnm.gerard1718]

I don't know the real answer to this but My theory is that if the grease gets on the filament wouldn't that cause it to slip. Maybe someone else can comment on that. Although with my 3D printed Zesty Nimble extruder the company says and send a small bottle of gear oil. They say to use one drop only and run the gears for a while with no filament to "Bake in". So I would love to know from BTT on what their recommendation is on oil or no oil. BTT in the instructions to add oil is it is needed. But then again the instruction and support is not very good.

[@PNWPrototyping]

Did you switch out to all metal extruder at the same time? Those dang Capricorn tubes can cause extrusion problems. For the heat break grease: yes, grease the upper; no, don't get any on the heat break threads. You don't want to transfer heat to the heat break via the threads but you do want to transfer it away from the heat break via the upper. For the gears, use graphite instead of grease. It doesn't attract dust like grease does, and since this is open, you will get dust in there.

[@AlexBuznik]

Did anyone manage to replace the capricorn tube inside the heatbreak? I can't

[@goblinelite4603]

Hey, I currently have a H2 and want to replace mine with an all metal heat break. How did you go about removing the heater block from the heat break first?

[@MandicReally]

It unthreads very easily from the block. Once the nozzle is removed there is nothing keeping the block on the heat break. The only thing that keeps them together is the Nozzle acting as a jam nut. So remove the heat break assembled as I showed, unscrew the nozzle, then unscrew the heat break. Assembly is the reverse.

[@goblinelite4603]

@@MandicReally Cheers thanks for your speedy reply! I get what you mean. Would the heater block need to be hot while I unscrew it from the heat break?

[@nickriker8336]

@@goblinelite4603 that's absolutely the best way to do it. Heat it when you take it apart and heat it when you put it back together.

[@menchelke]

Hey, so I tried to log into that thangs website, and it just loops over and over. So no way to download that stl.

[@MandicReally]

Sorry to hear that. I logged out and back in a few times without issue so I don't know how to help you. No errors, it just kicks you back to the login screen after you attempt login? Sorry to ask such a basic question but you tregistered for a new account?

[@-1-2-1-]

i Have the v1 shown here and the V2. There is clicking in both but the binding has been solved in v2. HOWEVER, I have extrusion inconsistencies in the V2 where the v1 is perfect.

[@nathanp3366]

Maybe this is just a coincidence but I only had the ticking issue once I lubricated the gears.

[@giovannipilosio4793]

the bl touch mount stl?

[@MandicReally]

Haven’t released any of those designs cause they are all centered around my mounting on my Ender 5 plus. Most folks use those front holes for their Cooling fan mounting. My fan is Behind the extrusion so out of the way. If you want it, I’ll gladly release the files.

[@giovannipilosio4793]

@@MandicReally I have the part cooling on the back too and if you could release the file I would be very happy

[@MandicReally]

@@giovannipilosio4793 I just uploaded it to Thangs. Also I included the Probe Offset measurements in the description for properly configuring it: thangs.com/MandicReally/Biqu-H2-BL-Touch-Mount--Direct-Drive-Extruder-42776?manualModelView=true

[@benayer6552]

@@MandicReally that part cooling fan duct is pretty nice, where Chan I find the file?

[@MandicReally]

@@benayer6552 I’ve never released it because it was designed around the Linear Rail conversion that I did at the same time. So it wouldn’t work unless doing the exact same conversion (without modification) and I don’t want to release the whole design as I’ll end up tech support for it forever more. I could release it as a “DIY” “Make Your Own” thing maybe.

[@johnm.gerard1718]

One mor thing I say another video that said the clicking was do to the small bearings inside being a very small bit smaller than the hole. Therefore, wobbling around. He replaced his with new bearings he got from BTT. Or source them yourself. It probable will be much faster than trying to get BIQU to send you new ones.

[@jonathanbates3529]

Use GRAPHITE lube, go to the hardware store key cutting aisle and get Lock Cylinder Lube. You can’t use the same lube you use to grease a dump truck!!!!!! When the gears are microscopic that leftover grease that they scraped off the floor of the janky Chinese axle factory next door or the grease they scraped off the side of the wok after dinner just doesn’t “flow”….. Mine did that too, cleaned all the gears and bronze bushings in acetone, then “dusted” the gear teeth with graphite. Now she runs like a raped ape averaging 250mms with 1000mms max vel with only slight ringing WITHOUT an inertia switch. While your in that deep though buy a “all metal Titanium heat brake” for it and give that Teflon lined crack pipe to your nearest plug. He will thank you and so will your printer!!!!

[@kitcarlson6033]

Set retraction to 0.4mm, speed 5mm/s. Works great! No stringing.

[@PaulHanak]

Hayyyyy affiliate link to that screwdriver yo!

[@MandicReally]

That one isn't available anymore and mine died after about 1 year of use sadly. So I picked up a new one that is a bit stronger than the last one, but mildly louder. I like it, here is an Affiliate Link, thanks for the support: amzn.to/3LNDZRE

[@PaulHanak]

@@MandicReally annddd that was a no brainer! Sold! That one looks sexier too! Thanks!

[@dimitriecioraneanu3041]

Why does everybody put thermal paste on the part of the heatbrake the skrews into the heat block? It really makes no sense, the whole point of the heatbrake is to isolate, why would you put the thermal paste in there ? Its job is to transfer heat and you dont want heat transfered into the heatbrake and than into the heatsink. I am sure there is not a big diference either way, but still, cant understand what are you thinking while doing that

[@NexGen-3D]

Because you need to wick the heat away from the filament in the tube as much as possible, the brake helps to inhibit heat from traveling back up the tube, but what heat does get past this point, needs to transfer as efficiently as possible to the heatsink so the fan can remove it, other wise you end up with heat creep, so thermal grease of some kind is totally needed, I use Copper grease, sees to work perfect at these temps and stays wet so you can remove easy as well.

[@Jorjito1989GDios]

That’s not normal mine is smooth, silent and don’t skip at all. It can be the grease!

[@MandicReally]

Before disassembly and greasing mine was entirely bound up. The “After” sound is almost non-existent. The video doesn’t convey that well. The difference is night and day and it’s been running for about 30-40 hours so far without skipping a beat (pun intended).

[@HelgeKeck]

had the same problem, could fix by decreasing the extruder acceleration, completely gone now