Black Diamond Presents: Carlo Traversi-Empath (5.15a)

[@sirstar45]

The "Crux" looked so stupid easy when he flowed through it.. Then you see Daniel and Jimmy being thrown off the wall on those same moves, insane.

[@donkyuhbuhts540]

Inr, looked so effortless

[@gillesparez9119]

Boulderers be like "I'm gonna clip the chain then top out" ahahah Great vid, thanks!

[@monkechug6501]

who wouldn't top out

[@johntuttle9544]

FA Summit Glory FTW.

[@robbiemize]

Lmfao so true

[@chrisbuck98]

"Very good" - Daniel Woods

[@TennisEuphoria]

"Very Strong"

[@tristanvandermerwe3816]

A Mellow video, in disguise

[@chuffer595]

Any video featuring Daniel Jimmy and Keenan automatically has the mellow vibe. Just needs a better sound track and it's set :P

[@thisisjonb]

Nice dude... COME ON

[@johnblack7862]

As of this writing, Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods (also in this video) snagged repeats of this line, as well as Nathaniel Coleman (not in the video)

[@CourtneyWarren]

Holy smokes that's a gorgeous line! Really great short film

[@mikeb5954]

king line - would not be surprised if someone with massive stones tried this on gear at some point in the future.

[@jasperray6576]

James Pearson has entered the chat

[@Bennici]

@@jasperray6576 Just who I was thinking of. I don't know if Dave Macleod and Angus Kille are up for 9a+ climbing, but they would also be bold enough to try I think.

[@EKdlwoasred]

@@Bennici yes to Dave

[@CJski]

I would love to see Tom and Pete try to jam their way up it

[@Lycian17]

Also Jacopo Larcher!

[@Goofygreyhoundgoober]

So sick. Maybe one of the most static 5.15s I’ve ever seen! So much tension

[@colebarber1996]

Check out Alex Megos on Fight Club 5.15b if you haven't already!

[@jonaskopecky5846]

All the tension in the world :D

[@lolytard5000]

Literally looked like a bunch of 5 star boulders on top of eachother.

[@SendStory]

That rock looks so damn cool. Seeing him flow through that is crazy. Super solid film.

[@aidanloeser4890]

What a beautiful line + such a treat to get this the day after mellow dropped Heaven. Love seeing these guys on ropes!

[@nubroca6371]

I NEED that mellow hoodie

[@KoRR22]

I came to comment section thinking the same thing.. where do I buy it

[@rschreck876]

It’s a plain black hoody with a small logo on it. Weird thing to “need”....

[@bennettstone656]

@@rschreck876 you must be fun at parties

[@looptylooppull5598]

honestly u could just embroider that on urself. it is pretty small :) good luck!!

[@the_soap_opera]

i require it

[@jasperray6576]

I like how they acknowledge the potential albeit high level of danger of sending it on gear, and why they chose not to!

[@Bennici]

Between being bold and being dangerously stupid is a fine line to walk, and these guys seem to have it together enough to be reasonable. It's not like they prevented anyone from leading it on gear if they wanted to, and I would argue that making people feel ashamed for poor style when they choose safety is not a productive way to think.

[@13Omega37]

It would be 5.15a R/X, not sure if that appeals to anybody... :D

[@causeitsthere]

@@13Omega37 ask c.barrett he was screaming that they are bolting cracks in Tahoe.

[@SpartaSpartan117]

Connor Herson sends it on gear

[@Steven-ro6os]

@@Bennici They may not have prevented it from being sent on gear, but having the bolts there definitely takes away from the ascent, as you can grab or clip a bolt whenever needed. I guess we'll see if gets more gear repeats than just Herson, and if they then decide to chop it. Seems pretty possible.

[@ejl74]

Love the way this was edited. That was a sick send.

[@spenceredgren7632]

One of the best videos you guys have done IMO! Love the continuous climbing shot

[@grahamcole6584]

My hands are sweating watching this

[@jamesverb1927]

This film gets me fired up! Unreal watching this crew work this amazing climb. Those Intro lines looked AMAZING!

[@aidanscarffe5256]

Amazing video and incredible line! Interesting that woods thinks its as hard as first round first minute 9B when considering this has already had 3 quick repeats and RRFM has only been sent by 4 people who happen to be some of the worlds best sport climbers. Nice to see some more 5.15s established in America

[@Lilusclimb]

This is a really nice video and that´s sure one of the top 9a+ lines in the world. I might know nothing about hard routes but I would say: that's how it looks like when you go rock climbing with boulderers... tickmarks on every hold from the bottom to the top!!! :D

[@justingabriele3881]

Carlos is experience the mellow effect

[@haepy2953]

very good carlo

[@HendrikMorkel]

That’s such a great looking spot & line 😍

[@goodnightmunchie]

Or so the Germans would have us believe 🧐🚬

[@bushcraftagustinmontoya6324]

Great Job...Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.Thanks for your Videos,a Greeting 🎅✌

[@TennisEuphoria]

"If it's somewhere in the realm of possibility" 🤣🤣🤣

[@TheLongRanger]

Chapeau Carlo!

[@GregHartSk8er]

Amazing bit of rock - sick line!

[@BryceU]

Great send. Awesome crew too

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

An interesting combination of laybacking , crack and compression moves

[@DanZeevi]

Climbed by elite boulderers

[@BrutelyAwesome]

thanks for giving me sport psyche

[@jackdumanat49]

as they say "don't take things for granite"

[@themeatpopsicle]

this man's eyelashes could climb 5.15

[@e.solano3963]

Fuck yeah boys! Way to create some solid lines here in CA. I hope to make it that way and clip into some of those anchors y'all put up 💪 keep us posted on all the new lines somehow!

[@nicholasvaloff6064]

Alright, lets get Whittaker or Randall out here and see if this shit can be crack climbed.

[@dvybeyond]

My thought exactly ^^

[@niamor17]

5:24 recheck! You're cool Daniel :-P

[@downgradedproductions]

100% perfect line...

[@TheAlexandreluu]

You know what’s gorgeous? Carlo’s eyelashes. Magnificent.

[@bowmanny8056]

Good man

[@guywheeler4225]

sick video!

[@WilliamsSkilliams]

Wait a sec...... there’s granite in the sierras!!!!

[@iLLy369]

Super fu$ckin rad!

[@riccardosaglio9789]

5:08 I was just thinking "no chance of reaching the third bolt but i'd give it a try"

[@onsight2822]

Epic 🤘

[@Aldroid0]

Lol calls out all other sport climbers for chipping. Nice work

[@MegaMrSpaz]

its a well known fact that it's not uncommon amongst hard sport routes for them to be chipped...

[@Bsmd25]

Natural 5.15's are incredibly rare unfortunately. Not that it actually matters to those of us who are meer mortals and probably wont ever even touch the holds on a route that hard😂

[@Mdjagg]

All the thumbs downers are Cali twats that want to keep this area a secret. Guaranteed. Amazing video. Thanks guys.

[@svetoslavchilingirov3858]

where did you buy those hiangles from?

[@austindonisan]

I'm guessing the crag isn't secret anymore if there's spray videos about it. Fairly easy to find using Google Maps now.

[@nickstrong4460]

Give me a hint. I've been trying to figure out the mountain in the background. I'm thinking deadwood peak or pyramid peak.

[@austindonisan]

@@nickstrong4460 Opening shot is of Thunder Mountain viewed from the West

[@nickstrong4460]

@@austindonisan that was my third choice. Has anyone looked at that cave at the top. Its up and right of that multipitch wall.. You can see it when going towards kirkwood.

[@davidsimpson3885]

Any top route should have a top out, like silence, mental route, but miss ondra walking out on top having sent it, but guess this comes from my days climbing cliffs in Wales, abseil down to start and seconding your belayer.

[@igsh3185]

if Ondra had to walk out on top of that cave that would be like 738338b+ hahah i had the exact same though but check the lenght in that final take

[@TheMr880]

Beautiful line and super impressive. So I hadn't heard of Carlo before. Am I just unaware? Pretty amazing to have more 5.15(x) climbers out there, especially making the route look so naturally climbed.

[@callummather4471]

Get Pete Whittaker on this thing

[@johntuttle9544]

More like Jacopo.

[@callummather4471]

@@johntuttle9544 him too!

[@grantbuchwald4644]

Chill vid- but like what’s the name of the first song in it?! 🤗

[@louistheriault3900]

Unsent: i'm chopping the bolts off empath.

[@riricky815]

which model of quickdraw are they using?

[@ShannonMcCraryH]

Man this route needs to be lobster clawed 🦞

[@josephcassidy5232]

So sick.

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

Are there few 5.15s in america because america is sandbagged , because americans are weaker, or because america doesn't have many steep cliffs?

[@JTowny12]

America seems to be bigger on the bouldering scene, also it’s easier to go visit a place with established hard sport routes then it is to find/develop them. Plenty of potential here for hard routes.

[@RedX2276]

There just arent many cliffs with the right rock type (steepness, hold size, length, etc)

[@johntuttle9544]

Most 5.15s are on steep steep limestone. Not much of that here.

[@danballarin]

I would have just chimneyed up the tree and called it good.

[@aspuzling]

5:04

[@nathantweeddale9057]

who hit thumbs down?

[@johntuttle9544]

The ghost of John Bachar.

[@causeitsthere]

C.barrett

[@slimanohousoescaladetaghia5120]

Hello to all the members of black Diamond First, let me introduce Sliman Ohouso myself: my name is a resident and climber in the village of Taghia Marocain. Have practiced climbing, this beautiful sport, since my childhood. Right now I have started climbing the levels of 7c + and 8a. Indeed, what I could ask you is, if possible, to send me your climbing materials and the climbing clothes bearing the logo of your company, in the objective is to make them more reputable through the world, as I am considered a climbing champion in Morocco. I have climbed almost all the existing routes on the great mountains which rise to more than 800m of hard and complicated climbing. And thank you in advance. Sliman Ohouso

[@GabrielMendezC]

5:13 My realm of possibility its 10D. So I guess i'll pass. LOL

[@iguessitsmanny]

Should’ve taken a victory whip after the top out

[@nickstrong4460]

I'm willing to bet everyone talking shit hasn't touched the chains of a 13 in there life. Even Royal Robbins appreciated the dawn dawn wall after harding "spray bolted" up it. Talk shit once you can pull of the ground of this thing, Jesus Christ! How 'bout we focus on how sick those pinches look.

[@N___C]

Those eyelashes....

[@Poseph]

now tell us where its at

[@13Omega37]

38.68407380309685, -120.14446230068357 Maybe? Just had a look around on Google Maps

[@austindonisan]

@@13Omega37 Yup, just one look at the opening drone shot gives it away.

[@vicaswarweg9976]

Topping out a route 😂

[@marcwinter7283]

This looks cool, now recall your broken beacons.....

[@Monscent]

Id love these kinda films without all the damn music. It wrecks it for me.

[@highcurrent1125]

There wasn't a good "foot" on the whole shebang.... Lot's of side pulls ZERO feet... ooooof.

[@darkotp7108]

9b till europe 9bclimbers flash taht.....

[@glomslevikarical]

Looked like a jug haul to me. Fail to see 15.a in any of that. Good to see people having fun though.

[@ensar6803]

it was looking easy at first, than I realised it is long and really shitty holds. and I don't really understand why they bolted this, because someone can climb this thing on gear someday.

[@jamesverb1927]

Carlo has climbed some of the hardest trad routes in the world, I bet he checked to see if it was possible.

[@loganhaddox6808]

There aren't that many people climbing 5.15 on gear are there? Also they said the placements were shit because all the cracks are flaring out making for a high possibility of popping gear/decking.

[@ensar6803]

@@loganhaddox6808 yeah I know all but 4:45 they're saying its possible but dangerous. I love this guys all but I think if there is a chance to doing it, don't bolt it. There are lots of examples in the past. Future generations will crush this thing like nothing someday.

[@johntuttle9544]

@@ensar6803 The bolts will only add to an eventual (maybe) all gear lead when they are bypassed and a new standard set. Then again, someday someone will free solo it, so why place gear? etc etc etc. Its just a game climbers play. Never placing bolts or other permanent anchors is a false ethic that would destroy safe enjoyment of the sport. It would be a dead end for the suicidal only.

[@glaras4681]

I mean you can always just not use the bolts and climb it on gear if that’s what you wana do. Bolting it just makes it more accessible which I have no problem with personally.

[@stacky512a]

many 13 moves equal a 15 nowadays

[@robdenayer543]

first song?

[@olddirtydoggy]

Boring bolt clipping, where is the adventure and drama in this?

[@Tshopshire]

Chop chop?

[@georgehughbanks6435]

You gents would love the projects of the Pack Rat Cave of Mclellan. Granite bliss.

[@beamoscrilla7691]

Was that code black v10 the Boulder at the phantoms??

[@cymcintosh4417]

Video would have been cooler if it was on mellow instead Sierra Bullets

[@GhostShip94]

am I weird for not liking the practice of constant praise and encouragement? when done constantly it comes across as insincere or undeserved. I get that you wanna pump up your mates and this is a hard route, but make it mean something, yknow. dudes acting like he is the fuel driving this mans engine. if he pauses for a breath the dude is gonna fly off the wall

[@xiyin137]

It's not about sincerity. After each hard move, the mind resets. The previous encouragements are immediately forgotten and no longer relevant. It may sound annoying to the spectator but many climbers benefit from the constant reminder to focus.

[@aidanloeser4890]

Great -- when you FA 5.15a we'll look on silently.

[@jefferypinley4336]

I personally benefit more from people telling me to breathe and relax, since I forget both on redpoint! The 'come ons' don't have the same effect tho

[@GhostShip94]

@@aidanloeser4890 lol I'm not trying to be an asshole I just don't understand it. I climb myself, and it means nothing to me when people are constantly prattling on about every move I do. It makes no difference for me and feels silly.

[@leoingson]

@@GhostShip94 Same for me. Maybe it gets different, when it's really really hard/pumpy.

[@johntuttle9544]

The first rule of a pristine climbing area, is we don't talk about it lol....locals and weekend warriors been putting up lines in that area for 40 years...remains unspoiled but for how long? If you truly love an area, keep it secret, keep it safe. Resist the temptations of ego and telling everyone. Of course I recognize the hypocrisy of wanting it on the down low but compared to the garbage pile that much of Donner is or other overrun Tahoe areas...so nice instead to go to your projie or a route not visited in years and see wild flowers at the base instead of garbage, trampled vegetation and beanie bros playing techno and spraying. End of an era likely with this film? Regardless, truly happy for Carlo and props to J. Webb for exploring...its the essence of the best of our sport. Sick send, much gnar!

[@haepy2953]

that´s a bit selfish don´t you think?

[@johntuttle9544]

@@haepy2953 Nope. When you have the experience to see areas that were once beautiful turned into shit holes by the inconsiderate masses you will agree. Nothing is being kept from you. **It is being kept pristine for you if you are willing to go find it yourself**. What is selfish is the expectation that everyone will make it easier just for your and other's momentary convenience leading to the rapid degradation of the area. Find something special yourself. It will change your life.

[@shmalts1]

while i totally agree that most climbers are falling into the habit of being disrespectful of areas, keeping huge areas that are public in a public space like tahoe doesnt seem like the answer either. Gatekeeping does just that, keeps those who could find happiness in these areas away even if they have as much right to it as you do. Seems like the environmental sustainability is your primary concern which i think is sick and admirable, but then maybe the answer is to analyze other overrun climbing areas like bishop and try to implement positive ways of educating incoming climbers. If youre familiar with these areas, care about them, and recognize the possibility of their future environmental down-cline (post it not being "secret" anymore) it might be time to create more active coalitions. Not trying to be pretentious either and apologize if it comes across that way, i just really dislike secret areas and gatekeeping and hope there is a better future of inclusiveness to public land settings.

[@scottdonahue7813]

​@@johntuttle9544 I agree. If this cliff is where I think it is, the impact of lots of climbers would be catastrophic. I'm not even sure what the regulations are for bolting. Either way, it should stay a secret.

[@johntuttle9544]

@@shmalts1 I think anyone (myself included) would react negatively to being told "can't tell you, its secret" but that sort of personal interaction is very different and not what I mean. No one is keeping anyone away and I want to emphasize that all are welcome on our Public Lands. Keeping an area secret to me means just not publicly sharing info with people that have no attachment to the place or with people you will never meet. Those are the ones that "consume" climbing areas and then just move on when they are done with a place. No guidebook and no Mountain Project means the people that are really motivated can still find the place (all the info is out there already, grab a map and explore!). It is not being kept from others, it is being kept pristine for the truly motivated so that they can have the thrill of discovery too and the joy of an unspoiled place because once its gone, its gone forever.

[@mangotreechen]

europeans got balls - europeans establish routs from the bottom...nice footage though!

[@leoingson]

Rather not, depends on the ethics of the area. Usually this prevents really hard stuff. I only know of Ondras ground up route in Elbsandstein.