Black Diamond Presents: The Lifer

Russ Clune is a cornerstone of Black Diamond history and an integral part of climbing’s humble beginnings in America. Recently, BD Athlete Sam Elias paid Clune a visit at his home in the Gunks, where he sampled the historic routes of the past, and attempted a rare ascent of the new-school trad testpiece: Brozone (5.14b). But perhaps the most important thing Sam walked away with, amid all the climbing history lessons, and constant, often hilarious, Clune cliff-banter, was an intimate view into the soul of a man who has dedicated his entire life to climbing. #liveclimbrepeat
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[@chrisjowaisas95]

As a 45 year old dude that just started climbing, this is so rad. Feeling my skin get tougher and these incremental improvements in my flow, my strength, my understanding..... yah man, life is good! Cool video!

[@Phoenixhunter157]

I’m 43. Just started climbing too. It’s awesome.❤️💪🏽life IS good

[@yassaa4982]

The runout at the end of the video had me palms sweating even more than Sams roof climbing. Lovely video all round.

[@nickb7738]

The route is directissima, a 5.9+ and an amazing pitch. Get on it, the protection is pretty good, russ is just a total chad.

[@alpinejonny]

Storytelling is such a difficult art form in an age of content overload. Thank you BD, Sam, all involved for this incredible story.

[@charlieray5098]

So cool to see these ‘pros’ climbing top rope and not worrying about trying to impress everyone around them. Great video and thanks for showing the fun of top roping as well..it’s definitely not shown as much as it should be..it helps others understand that not all climbing is dangerous...very nicely done ✅!!

[@TerjeMathisen]

I started rock climbing in Norway in 1977/78, for my very first trip abroad in 1981 I flew to New York and took a train up to The Gunks, spending a couple of weeks learning that lead falls are OK on overhanging routes with bomber pro. Foops was still a big deal, as Lynn Hill mentions it was quite hard for those of us who are too short to reach out before our feet slips off. Personally I remember "Crack of Bizarre Delights" in the same area as even more fun.

[@collectkaisen]

What a refreshing video. Nice job, to everyone involved.

[@mtadams2009]

Beautiful video. it brought me back to my climbing days in the middle 70 and 80s. A weekend at the Gunks was always magical. There was no such thing as gyms or sports climbing, that I knew of. Bolts were considered a no no, placing gear was all I ever knew. Good times, thanks so much for making such a great video. Russ is the real deal for sure.

[@JedlyMT]

So inspiring and perfect timing right at the beginning of spring climbing season! Up here in NW MT we are just now starting to get some snowmelt and am stoked on getting out to the local crag from some much needed crimps and grips.

[@stelz750]

Damn Sam, this is my favourite piece of yours and one of my favourite climbing films. The history, Russ, Lynn, Salo. Capturing who these people were/are. Just awesome super proud. As a New York State climber - born n raised in western my, the Gunks mean a lot to me. So glad that someone took the initiative to do the work, dive deeper below the surface and see what’s there, love it man, thank you.

[@svapadata]

I am so happy to see this. Thanks, Jock. I remember happy days at the Persistence block at Lost City. Russ actually gave me a belay on "Survival". Wonderful video!

[@johnmcmillen4540]

Thanks a lot for this touching piece of climbing history, involving so many legends. Presenting tradition in such a lively and inspiring way, remembering me that climbing is so much more than pure performance or numbers...

[@ansonfogel1849]

So much soul, humanity, essence of story. Deeply proud work. Thank you for making this y'all. It matters.

[@leonardodias1058]

best content in ages for the climbing community! truly inspiring work, cheers to all involved.

[@michaelcheng7920]

It makes me so proud to see a story about the Gunks on here!

[@stuartwexler8215]

I learned how to climb in the Gunks in the early 90s and I still carry it with me as a badge of honor. I never met Russ, but I can see now how his presence permeated the community there. This video was a great bit of nostalgia for me and makes me want to return to the Gunks soon to close that loop - and maybe finally meet Russ!

[@prtzy]

Wow, the story telling on this is just out of the world. Not into core climbing, but this made me associate to the essence of it

[@HarryZumwalt]

Amazing! Thank you for sharing this!

[@Rollingouttj]

Great video. Climbing and climbing history. Inspiration at its finest.

[@mohammadlevy9668]

Awesome. Thanks for putting up a video like this.

[@danielmagana5125]

Great great honor to watch this great gem and see no just pictures but also the real people involved.

[@zacharytowle1594]

Never have I been more inspired to go climbing in the gunks and to know even more history about the gunks is amazing. I want to start training for that cuz holy shit that was awesome!!!!!!!!

[@bryceoverstreet1048]

On that last arete climb, he literally didn’t have any protection for like 100 feet... “It’s only x if you fall”

[@beeclimbing9954]

He's old school: only place protection where you need it. He likely has climbed that arete 100s of times...

[@louiscranfill4094]

Bee Climbing beautiful arete. What rt is it?

[@danbo004]

@@louiscranfill4094 it's directissima. A 5.9 start to High Exposure.

[@chrisbodnar5065]

This one made my palms sweat and my eyes misty. Great job

[@farfuraaa]

Beautiful movie!, and very inspiring and rich soundtrack!!

[@MrNietzel]

Great work to everyone involved with this video!

[@bryanh3541]

These two legendary climbers put so eloquently in my opinion why I don't like sharing my personal outdoor activities on social media anymore. Well done video, I had heard of the gunks before but I had never heard about the history behind it. Also who else was geeking out about Russ's guitar collection?

[@jumpingjackflash00]

BD, thank you for making meaningful content!

[@havaneseday]

This channels content is so refreshing. Quality work👍

[@kevind.3389]

Great story. Thank you so much.

[@sstrong42]

Man! I had the pleasure of hanging out and climbing with Russ and Amy for a couple days out in Hueco. Wonderful folks.

[@ratagoniajones5430]

Awesome. Great job Mike and everyone else.

[@SJ-vc2tz]

Great story, and loved the music!

[@mattsmith4751]

This was cool. I first learned of the gunks from a magazine article in the 90's. They are has always caught my interest since then because off the rich history and cast of characters

[@mattsonger]

So inspiring, great story telling!

[@jimhernandez7712]

God. Waves of emotion and memories. love it

[@DewItBig36]

Great video, I literally am itching to go try real outdoor climbing now.

[@watermanOIT]

Nice video about a great person with, as a bonus, a photo with one of my best friends showed on Russ' wall!

[@chrisowen9236]

Amazing. More videos like this would be great.

[@Johnnyhumbkr]

Awesome video! Lovely place!

[@HilleCine]

Damn that was a good watch. Thank you.

[@davehause8571]

Excellent. Much needed.

[@fritz4345]

Great to see the photos of all the Greats who came through. Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert.....

[@ericnunez6544]

Fantastic perspective on climbing.

[@peterrees6346]

Love it... fusion of new... old... and key location. Can you do Catherine Destivelle and Verdon Gorge, i Wolfgang Güllic and the Frankenjura, and Kim Carrigan and Mt Arapalies with the same historical bent

[@brianlampe75]

So weird to see these legend climbers that were young when I started climbing looking old now.. But I love how Russ still climbs with fluidity.

[@johns3106]

@The Sedentary Nomad My thoughts exactly! When did we all get so old?!

[@natewinoutdoors]

"You build a community not based upon your ability of climbing, but just about your love for it"

[@rickedeckard2006]

Amazing video... as usual.

[@speterlewis]

Russ is the greatest ambassador for climbing in this corner of our galaxy. If Russ was a disease, none of us (none of us!) would EVER want to get vaccinated. It's lovely to see him getting some great airplay. Hope you're well, my friend. Keep on cranking, and smiling! (Love the cameo by Fossil Dave at 16.51, BTW.)

[@Kevin40las]

Fantastic! Man, I miss the gunks.

[@markarcieri]

Great Video.....but work on the sound mix. Music is burying the dialogue is lots of parts

[@JedlyMT]

I agree. LOVED the video, but that sound mix wasn't the greatest. I could barely hear Sam talk.

[@wulf.hunter9121]

I think the first minute or so being an odd mix was their way of flexing how great the soundtrack was later.

[@JedlyMT]

@@wulf.hunter9121 Problem is, nobody ever watches a climbing film thinking, "I wanna hear more of this soundtrack!"

[@rodrigodlvu]

also there is a color correction discrepancy: sometimes the tshirt is orange, other times, yellow. Great shots either way.

[@jasonpressler7111]

@@JedlyMT i gotta have more cowbell!!!

[@JOBoarder27]

Truly inspiring.

[@Marauder1981]

So much much much better than those cringey PETZL Videos. Thank you. I love your carabiners. P.S. Thats what I love a bout your videos: a real story AND whole climbing footage with very good music.

[@richiedreammm5872]

May I add that the gunks were first established by German climber/mountaineer Fritz Wiessner, who emigrated to the US in 1929, I believe

[@acommenter5184]

You may, if you're willing to clarify that Mr. Wiessner "established climbing in the 'Gunks", which were there long before he was. Do you feel better now?

[@CaptainLutra]

truely inspiring!

[@stevenpenning705]

I watched caving videos (Tight squeezes) and I will now add to that... Guys like Russ and everyone that does this ... are ... in my books ... super (wo)men.. Cheers if I have to watch a video and forget to breath then that is just ... A M A Z I N G

[@johanpersson597]

Excellent video.

[@BrendonN]

Great story and great climbing.

[@bloctribe]

A storyteling video that you have not seen in a while.... Please work more on this direction in the future.

[@mandosax251]

Great video!

[@arlie505]

climbed there in the early 70s. awesome place!

[@eighta]

Excelente vídeo, tremendos pegues

[@jnam4153]

i cried a little inside. :| that was beautiful.

[@tomasr64]

Most of us of that era climbed that way. Shoved under a rock now.

[@Theknittingcommitteeband]

great.. im in the south we have lots of stuff like this..rock on

[@chadrides914]

I want to watch a documentary about Index Washington. I went to Index and was enamored by the routes going up it. Has anyone made a video of Index similar to this? This was beautiful.

[@deloprojet]

More like this, please.

[@khrumkashan6954]

Wowwwwwwwwww amazing well done .

[@holyworrier]

Beautiful.

[@akkenton32]

Руки вспотели пока смотрел. Дух захватывает!

[@RandomDadStuff]

Does Lynn Hill ever blink? Maybe that's the secret to her awesome sends. Great video and stellar climbing area.

[@DrewNorthup]

It is possible to shoot the video in such a way that blinking is less obvious. In addition, if the cuts are short it is possible that you'll miss the several frames containing blinking. For hoots & hollers I checked one of the Lynn Hill interview segments... She blinks at a completely normal rate.

[@RandomDadStuff]

Drew Northup I guess after watching her first segment at 3:35, she didn’t blink at all. Maybe that was the director’s way of sneaking in a “Lynn doesn’t blink at hard new routes” kind of joke.

[@sethgilbertson2474]

Oh my God I love the Gunks.

[@cats-and-robots]

Spectaculaaaarrrrr!

[@TheKiltedClimber]

Love the 'Gunks!

[@catfur9215]

This is cool. I'm glad it isn't all bolted up. 99 percent of the climbs in my east coast state aren't bolted. I'm enjoying trying to become a good trad climber and I am stoked to visit the gunks one day :)

[@illduitmyself]

i almost cryied...

[@stefanmathez]

More stuff like this!

[@partykrew666]

brozone looks like such an insane route.

[@TarantulaRookie]

inspiring

[@rileystratton6232]

This dude is crushing

[@mantisguy]

All the feels.

[@Vaan66]

Does anyone know the name of the song which is played when sam climbs brozone?

[@ropesolo]

top notch!

[@taylorspiegelberg2749]

Whats the line Russ is on at the very end of the video? Looked like a super fun romp with mega exposure!

[@marcopervo]

So many photographs from the previous era were never taken because the camera gear was considered extraneous and taking decent shots interfered with the task at hand. Now everybody brings a camera with them every time they climb so there is a glut of photos.

[@user-sp4nx4ho1i]

6:18-9:00 was my favorite part. I really wanna climb here next time I go to upstate NY.

[@TheKiltedClimber]

Do it...it's heaven!

[@Krazyyerttle]

Man i live in new York and i had no idea

[@caseyernstmusic5748]

Could you guys not have the dam music so loud so I can actually hear them talking

[@stevewalston7089]

I have said for years that youtube videos should have voice and music on separate tracks so that one or the other could be controlled or muted. Probably too complicated though.

[@davidtate166]

Yes it was loud and it bad music for this video.👎😖

[@Dardjiskien]

Awesome

[@dylancallan956]

im out to the gunks one day

[@usernumber313]

Awesome stuff! What grade was that route that Russ was on at the end There? Looked so Fun!!

[@stickboi3333]

Directissima I believe? That would make the pitch above him High E www.mountainproject.com/route/105799563/directissima?fbclid=IwAR3_IRKYVLuBP6X85Rs3QvnLlekYE_XbmpKFOhwIxSbRWnnfM1dA8dRNedo

[@cmantooth9191]

what is the line he was on at the end??? that's freaking proud.

[@kuls88]

That RUNOUT!

[@bonefishboards]

I've aided Twilight Zone with a partner and solo. Best Things in Life Aren't Free has always intimidated me and I've never done it. This guy basically free climbed it (not withstanding the beginning section)! Incredible. But traversing into the Directissimma arete from High Ex..... for the video! OK, cool nonetheless:)

[@toddkreider6759]

Fantastic video - wondering what route Russ is leading at the end 16:00 minute mark ???

[@philmean5603]

Directissima, 5.9

[@timothybabich8696]

you can also do a 5.4 in the corner to the same ledge.....it actually looks like he may have traversed a bit from that to pick up directissima. sometimes the 5.9 is a lil damp at the bottom making the first few moves sketchy. either way def do High E to the top for a 2nd pitxh from the ledge....5.6..sporty climb but super classic and dope

[@goaliemojo4310]

awesome video! aren't we all lifers?

[@samuelfarrow5672]

"located in upstate New York" lol, this is too good. Bud if that's upstate New York than Toronto is in the arctic circle.

[@mynillywita9milli]

its 2 hours from the city...

[@user-io7sy6sg8o]

I love everybody ...

[@ejl74]

I live 35 minutes from gunks. Never been but after watching this I have to go.

[@MuttinHead]

Where can I find the music?

[@botagas199]

That guy Russ Clune, when he speaks i am confused if the video is not on 2x speed

[@matuddin971]

Great