Blazer Jimmy Blend door actuator replacement HVAC

[@1728colonel]

I am a retired automotive tech with a degree in Applied Science Industrial Engineering. I will be 70 years old tomorrow. Just want to thank Steve for this great video. I have pulled dashes for this repair several times and was preparing to pull my dash. I have the C68 system with automatic controls. I was not real happy about having to pull the dash. That is about a 4 hour job. I came across this video and decided to give it a try. I had to modify a 1/4 inch drive ratchet by heating the handle with a torch and bending it to a 45 degree angle but it only took me about 45 minutes to remove the oem Actuator and replace it with a new one. Total job time was about 90 minutes from disassembly to completed repair and buttoned up. Always nice to learn something new in auto repair. Thanks Steve.

[@sirj9]

Thank you! I searched and your video is the only one that fully helped me fix and recalibrate my blend door issue with my 2000 Blazer. After removing and replacing the RDO fuse and putting the ignition in the run position, I heard the blend door actuator resetting. Everything is back to normal. I cannot thank you enough! If you place a donate icon on this video, I will definitely send you a donation.

[@stevec588]

@sirj9 aww, thanks man. Your thanks is worth more than money. Thanks. Blaze on!

[@jcsilvagni3993]

Mr. Crosier, Thank you so much for your video. I am a 73 y/o lady who decided I could do this! My mechanical talents lie in computers, but I thought I would take the challenge. Your video was spot on. I now have COLD air like I haven't had in years. I own a 98 Chevrolet Blazer LT which I have owned for 21 years. She is a 'cherry' and thanks to you, she is back blowing cold air!

[@JAleksandr]

You sir just helped me IMMENSELY!!! Great vid and after 8 years of it being on here it saved my butt. I can’t thank you enough!!!

[@87_g-body_king74]

This video saved me a whole lotta time and money. Bought the same exact tools you used and got it out in about 10 minutes. Then I just reached my hand back there and manually turned it to hot. (It was stuck on cold). That'll do till winter is over. Then I'll buy a new blend door actuator and properly fix it!

[@brandonfarr6361]

Phenomenal help! I really appreciate guys like you that help us amateurs. However I believe you left out the most important step. Before you start you need to pick up a few steaks and ice down a 12 pack. Then call that pal of yours who is 5'7" and a 135 lbs and invite him over for some BBQ. By the time he shows up you should be just about done taking the glove box out. Then tell him that if he will get those last two screws for you, you will go ahead and fire up the grill. I am a large 6'3" man and I managed to pull it off but I left behind a ton of skin. Thanks again!

[@stevec588]

Yes, easier if you have 3 elbows.

[@RichardPerkins-up5fq]

This fix took me 30 minutes tops thanks to this video. Old actuator had broken plastic gear. $40 or something on rock Auto and it's back working

[@danielhorowitz9300]

Great video. I can't thank you enough Steve! I was just about ready to take out the entire dash to do this repair. So glad I came across your video. Definitely, one of the best repair videos I've ever watched. Great job!

[@frankmaggio4328]

THANKS STEVE. (Yes I am yelling!) :D I watched your video, purchased the tool as you recommended, high tailed it down to LKQ, and followed your procedure exactly. After a few minutes I found a Blazer and went to work. Came out in a few minutes. Came home and she just bolted right in. We now have HEAT!!!!! The heat now comes out of the dash, as well as through the vents. No heat from the footwells. The only thing left to check and replace is the actual knob assembly, which I can do tomorrow. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!

[@jamesfreemansr.7846]

Great video Steve. Watched several times before replacing actuator. Took me 2 hours but I had no special tools. Bad actuator was for a manual HVAC left there by last mechanic? I put in an automatic and it worked fine. Saved myself over $500.00. I am retired and 73 so well worth it. Thank you.

[@rowdyroughneck]

Thanks Steve! This video helped me out a lot. I had no hot air coming into the cab and it's about -15c. I found I didn't have to remove the glove box instead just use the release tab on the upper left side to let the glove box down to hang out of the way. I also just used a 1/4" ratchet putting the handle end in first and had lots of sweep. Just switch hands to make thing easier. Right hand to remove the left screw and the left hand to remove the right screw. I also used epoxy to fix the gear. I milled out the center of the gear with a file to close the crack in the gear as it didn't want to fit back on the shaft even with taking not of the two flat spots. I had two take two attempts at the pulling the fuse and turning the key forward. The second time it worked and I could hear the air door cycle back and forth a few times. Thanks again!

[@bonez6349]

this is an awesome video my man.! never delete this...! its valuable info on this common problem with the 99 blazer and up. i have the same problem and i've been searching the net and KZbin for weeks now trying to find an easier way to get to the blend door actuator without removing the entire dash.! i just knew they had to be an easier way... this is awesome bro. thank you.!

[@bigdawg24153]

Thanks for the video. Using your instructions I replaced my actuator in about 1 1/2 hrs, including the time it took me to drive to get a new one. You definitely need some type of flex-head socket wrench. I got mine with a tool set from lowes for less than $20. My vehicle is a 2000 Blazer.

[@SDLewisSr]

I just wanted to say how much I appreciate this video Steve. It made my repair possible. I replaced my blend door actuator on my 1998 GMC Sonoma pickup. Thanks and God bless you!!!

[@tonyr4105]

Thank you so much for posting this video. I followed it step by step and replaced the actuator on my daughter's S-10. All it cost me was $12 for the wrench and $45 for the actuator.

[@49boundnative]

you are freaking awesome. Thanks for posting this video. You and everyone who posts videos on dyi mechanic save mankind. If everyone only knew simple instructions we all could benefit and save thousands of dollars. THANK YOU SO MUCH AND PLEASE KEEP POSTING ANYTHING ELSE YOU HAVE WORKED ON. Thanks again for your time.

[@thomascorey9626]

Just completed the changeout. Slightly bruised and bloody fingers, but..I now have heat, heat!! Great video. I also made a tool with an old allen wrench with a socket jammed on the end. If you are agile, it will take an hour, including the time to prepare the tools.

[@leighannmanifold7442]

Thank you sooo much for this video. Everyone tells you this actuator is located close to the floorboard - NOT in all vehicles! Had a kind soul on the GMC FB forum not taken mercy on me and sent me this link, I would still be slowly dismantling my dash and cursing my luck.

[@charlescollene20]

Excellent information and video. Saved me a lot of money. Took 30 minutes to change. Thanks a lot.

[@racerXsporter]

I shoved an old Allen wrench in a 7/32 socket after I cut half the length off both short and long ends of the Allen wrench. It took me 2 minutes to get the two screws out. The left screw you can spin full turns and the right screw you can do half turns. You can get it by hand after a full turn. Easy Peasy.

[@stevec588]

Good, always more than one way. Thanks for sharing.

[@backwoodsky]

Thanks a lot man. I've been looking everywhere for a good video on this. Great job!!

[@georgebeaudry8829]

Great video. I am not a mechanic of any kind and I was able to change the actuator out. Thanks!

[@rickivincent4600]

Wow! Steve you are awesome. Thank you so much. This was one of the most helpful videos iv ever used. I dicided to try and fix the actuator first. The big wheel was broken. don't know if it works yet or not. The jb is still drying but at least im in the right direction. iv been fighting this issue now for a year and a half.

[@davidallen6875]

I really liked your video - clear video of important areas and awesome tips along the way - this fixed my issue! Thanks so much!

[@rockdoctor9058]

I'm joining everyone else in thanking you for the video. This worked fine on my 1998 Blazer. A couple comments. That Harbor Freight ratchet should be considered required for the job. Worked great. I had to use the wooden handle of a hammer to bump the vacuum actuator up to get it out of the clip. Used a long screwdriver to pop the actuator up off the blend door stud to get it out. The hardest part was getting the new one into position. It is a VERY, VERY tight space. I must have fiddled around for 45 minutes until I got it to pop in. That back stud has little clearance. Also remember to get the flats on the blend door close to where the new actuator is placed. Thanks again.

[@rockdoctor9058]

+Rock Doctor Forgot to mention that there are lots of sharp edges and points on the duct work and housings that you are working around. I ended up with many tiny cuts all over my hands and fingers. Not horrible, but lots of them.

[@oobob79]

Thank you so much for this video! It helped me change out my actuator on my 99 s10 2.2 truck. Also I would have not known about having the truck relearn the new actuator. 👍

[@MrDanoconnor]

Great Video, Thank You. This is Yet Another GREAT IDEA the Engineers have come up with to complicate a simple device and make you bring your car to the Dealer. The Heat used to be Controlled FLAWLESSLY by a simple Cable to a gate valve in the Heater Hose and when it did fail it was a SIMPLE FIX. GM Just Couldn't let that continue.

[@edwinviruet6893]

Just did my 99 blazer, a shop in town wanted to charge me 1100 dollars to do the job. Thank you for your video. Now I got a.c. again.

[@scottmichael6719]

Edwin Viruet 1100 bucks?.. dirty ass mechanics.. i just ordered one on the net and it came today.. guess im gonna give it a shot.. $31 as compared to the shop i took it to quoted me at $145 just for the part.. so i suppose they were gonna stick it to me too...

[@RodknockRhett]

michael swanson I just paid $13 for the part on Rock Auto with a warranty.

[@EclecticBon]

Thank you so much for this video! I saved so much money because of this tutorial!

[@christyler4408]

Hi and thanks for the vid. Wife complained about our 99 trailblazer blowing heat all the time and whiring sound under the hood. Well it was the blend door obviously. Gear was broke in two places. I was able to use a 1/4" drive swivel head socket wrench to replace it. Didn't need the double jointed one just in case someone cant find one. Socket as mentioned in vid is 7/32

[@mseldon65]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have been trying to figure out the problem in my mothers truck and now it's fixed thanks to you. this video is great.

[@cyrilturner]

I have an Olds Bravada that I have to replace the same part on. Thank you for this video. It helped a lot.

[@sharonboerio9374]

Same here

[@libertyforamericanow]

This is a great video and help me to get mine out. Unfortunately mine was perfect inside and I could feel it working by holding my finger on top of it when it's in the vehicle. I recently acquired this Blazer and put a new radiator in it thermostat water pump etc. I just looked in the radiator and is quite nasty for being a brand new radiator after 6 months of driving. I believe my heater core is plugged up and I'm going to address it now Update yep heater core hoses and core were plugged.

[@morbugs63]

thank you, my '99 jimmy had this problem, I went to U-pull yard to take it apart (didnt care if i broke something) then did it in my driveway in about 15 minutes ~ and yes i had to go to Harbor Freight to get a 'swivel' wrench ... junk yard charged me $12,

[@donTataf]

hey i have a 99 jimmy that only blows hot air. Mechanic wants to charge me 1,300$ to take it apart and replace the actuator. Was this your problem? could you link me the actuator part? I may just try to do it myself.

[@rogue.red.dragon]

Thank God!!! I finally found this!!! i have been going nuts trying to figure out how I was going to get this fixed on mine. I have been trying o find something with at least some pictures and today as a last resort I was actually considering trowing in the towel to preparing myself to pull the dash! Last fall my blend door stopped moving at all but I had heat and I just let it go through the winter and I had decided now it was time i had at least an option of cooler air and discovered my blend door was moving back and forth from hot to cold all on its own so I am guessing that the computer module is looking for the door position that you were talking about and that it is out of sync.

[@michaeltrumpower3869]

Excellent explanation! Thanks for posting this man! 👍👍

[@achum2sum]

Thanks Steve, I had this same problem with my Blazer and couldnt figure it out after replacing those diaghram actuator thingys on both sides. NOW I KNOW what was wrong. Unfortunately the Blazer was broadsided 2 weeks ago. Getting a newer one soon though, so thanks

[@JacobWinkle]

Greatest video by far on here. Thank you so much.

[@hlantz411]

Thanks for the video, just replaced mine in a 1998 GMC Sonoma, took me awhile. lol Broken gear after I opened up the old one.

[@gv2wheels]

Awesome video thanks for posting you saved me hours by not taking the dash off !! You da man !!!

[@donaldcampbell3217]

Just finished replacing heater core. When finished had wiring harness hanging by glovebox. Test drove to find what did not work, and lost temp control. Thanks for video, was about to undo everything.

[@richardwood8516]

Thanks, this was my exact problem and made it really easy. Kudos!

[@Torch70]

Interesting...the actuator on my '98 Bravada is different inside. The large gear on mine is black and it's one piece that doesn't press onto a hub. I have no blue gear for the position reference, instead; there are two copper prongs attached to the bottom of the large black gear and they run along a carbon track on the circuit board. The ohms value changes according to the gear position. That was where my problem occurred. I simply needed to polish and bend those copper prongs for a tighter fit against the track. It's also impossible to mess mine up when reassembling. I just put the outer reference line at the 12:00 position (with fingers contacting track of course) and when fuse 19 is pulled and reset, the ECU did a sweep and everything was back to normal. I wonder if mine is an older version? It did make it 16 years and 120,000 miles before having any issues and the main gear is next to indestructible compared to the one in your video. I feel bad for the people who have GM cars with three of them all buried deep inside the dash. Once the dash is out, it's usually wise to do all three at once but expensive at $140 each.

[@gretchenhoos7750]

Thank you sooo much!! Gotta be my problem. Heard a motor sounding noise coming from there and the heat always blows!!

[@debraharold1734]

When you buy a new one do you have to set the blue wheel to the same spot as the one you took out. Please let me know ASAP my tool will be here tomorrow and I want to get it fixed I need my A/C for now and the heat will be coming soon as this is the middle of September 2024.

[@sc38converter]

im doing this right now, but i lost sync with the blue gear. how did you set that back up

[@johndoe-xq4sq]

Thanks for this good video. I cannot do this repair. I got exhausted just watching you doing this task !

[@rocmiller3]

Thanks for the video. Is the vacuum canister bolted in or does it snap into place? I not able to move it out of the way to get to the actuator

[@stevec588]

The air duct controller at 2:20? Just wiggle it up.

[@stevenjack23331]

I have a 99 Blazer LS with the manual heat selector (has vaccum lines on the back) so is there only 1 actuator ? My HVAC works great but not switching between defrost, vent etc and heat stays at luke warm.

[@alfredmendoza9534]

I'm not a mechanic ,...but thanks to your GREAT video,...I'm gonna try it??? thank you!

[@bdlane-valevich4488]

The metal arm on my air duct controller does not connect to anything, I am assuming that it should. What should it connect to and what does it control? Any help would be greatly appreciated, this video is fantastic!

[@noelsheffield4637]

Thank you very much for the video. I have a 98 Jimmy with manual temperature control. After completing the replacement, and performing every recalibration procedure I can find on the net, I still only get hot air blowing, on all settings. I wouldn't think it would be possible for the cam on the door to get so out of adjustment that the actuator would still go on, but I'm running out of ideas. I wish I would have tested the new actuator before installing it. I might have to remove it again and test it, but I sure don't want to. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@stevec588]

Easiest first, make sure the fuse isn't blown. If not.... You will most likely have to pull it again. Make sure your actuator matches your system. You stated you have a manual set-up so you should have a color wheel around you temp knob (not temp numbers) and you should be using an actuator with 4 pins. If this is the case... Pull the actuator and rotate the blend door by hand. With actuator out twist the bar that actuator sits on and rotate it back and forth. Should turn fairly easily about 1/4 turn (at most). If it doesn't the door is broken and the fix is more involved. If broken you may be able to move it (twice a year) with pliers or vice grips leaving it hot for winter or cool for summer.

[@noelsheffield4637]

Yes, that is correct. The actuator I received is a 4 pin, however the OEM I pulled out was a 7 pin. I only have 3 wires on the wiring harness pigtail, but I verified that there was a pin in the new actuator where there is a wire in the harness. Yesterday I unplugged the harness and was testing the pins with a test light. I found that when the temperature is turned all the way to the blue side I had current going to 2 of the 3 pins, but didn't have current while the knob was set to the red side. I'm figuring the 3 pin I didn't get power out of is a ground. I believe I'll have to take it out like you said. Thank you.

[@stevec588]

As you can see, it's been 4 years since I did this (and I'm getting old :)) so my recollection is, well, gone. Does seem weird that you are replacing a four pin with a seven pin. Even if you have only 3 wires in the harness, somethings different.

[@noelsheffield4637]

Actually, the original one had 7 pins, and the one I installed only has 4 pins. I think when I pull it back out, I'll plug it in while I'm holding it and test it.

[@Frogger900]

Awesome tutorial man! And kudos for the tip on that tool from harbor freight, picked one up today for about 20 bucks, well worth it! I took my actuator out and sure enough it had a cracked gear, same spot (they should use a better design). I used the 2 part epoxy & hose clamp method which fixed it up nicely. However, my blazer still seems to be blowing only hot air and the HVAC diverter knob doesn't appear to be correctly directing airflow to the proper vents. (ie: defrost, legs, face / legs, etc) I'm pretty sure I may need to check other actuators (I believe there are 2 other HVAC ones), but I can't seem to find any documentation on how to get to them. Any ideas?

[@stevec588]

Thanks, If your sure you have the right actuator (automatic/manual) I would take your actuator back out and see if you can move the post/door that the actuator slips over when installed. That's the peg that sticks up with the two flat spots. You should be able to move this back and forth by hand. (short term fix, lightly visegrip this post at desired spot) If not, you have bigger problems and a dash removal is probably in your future. If you can move it the the problem is either the actuator or the signal to it. Since it seems not to move at all (always hot) try moving that blue gear inside 180 degrees or to match one of those in the video. If that doesn't work it could be your HVAC controls. As far as the air flow direction, there are some other vacuum actuators that control those vents. here is a pretty good video for that. GMC Jimmy, S10, Blazer DIY How to Diagnose HVAC Mode Control - Vent - Defrost - Floor Selector

[@alafanlaman]

Kevin Smith I had the same problem Kevin. I fixed the problem by replacing the vaccume hoses under the hood on the drivers side. It had dry rotted. Once that was replaced, going from vent to defrost was flawless. Buy a long piece. It is separated by some sort of filter so you will have one vaccume hose going from the engine block to the filter and one hose going from the filter to a charcoal canister which is in the drivers fender. You can not see this nipple where this hose goes, you have to feel for it...its along the firewall on the inner left fender. I believe the filter T's off to go to a hard plastic line which goes to your vent controls in the dash. Take a look at the vaccume line. If it has dry rotted, that is your problem. Good luck. Chris

[@Johnshaft1970]

So after pulling the RDO fuse, putting back in and watching the Gauges jump, then turning the key to battery for 45 seconds .... do you take the key out at 45 seconds after the computer synchronizes itself, or just start it after 45 seconds with the the climate control on ?

[@stevec588]

For Automatic Climate Control models: Re-Calibrating Actuators After Power Loss Calibration of the Electronic Climate Control (ECC) module occurs whenever B+ is removed and then restored to the ECC module. During this calibration process the ECC module will automatically command the temperature door to the full HEAT position and then to full COLD position. The ECC module records both the minimum and maximum door positions and uses this data, which is in counts, to determine temperature door settings based on customer selected temperature settings. IMPORTANT: Do not select or use the scan tool HVAC menu during the ECC module calibration period or the ECC module will not calibrate properly. If the ECC module has been interrupted by scan tool operation the temperature door will become inoperative. If this should occur then: 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Disconnect the scan tool from the Data Link Connector (DLC) . 3. Remove the RDO BATT fuse for 10 seconds and then reinstall the fuse. 4. Place the ignition switch in the RUN position and wait 40 seconds for the ECC module to initialize. The RDO BATT fuse disconnect should also recalibrate the manual control version. B+ is the battery positive.

[@richv7095]

How do you replace the valve vent lever. I broke it replacing the actuator. I can't get the old on off to put the new one on. Thank you.

[@stevec588]

Not sure, I never tore into it that far.

[@rocmiller3]

Thanks ill try again. It feels as if its bolted in but I don't see any bolts. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it!

[@isaacmartinez4409]

I took mine out and i have 6 prongs but manual climate controls..... I bought one for manual climate controls and it only has 4.... Any ideas?

[@philmanwarren3666]

hey steve what else could be the problem is there something else that would tell the actuator to go the cold side ? the heater core is good the actuator is good but it won't go in the heat mode unless i turn the blend door knob

[@poptrunkonu]

Is the location of the actuator the same on my 2002 Chevy blazer ?

[@lewlancaster1197]

I was going to make a video of this, until I found yours. An excellent job. Thanks a bunch

[@nativeflower6657]

Approximately how much time should I plan to do this replacement?

[@stevec588]

If you have the replacement part and not repair the old actuator you should be able to do it in less than 2 hours even for a first timer

[@KayellenFarrell]

thanks steve u made this job really easy!!!

[@xvicermusic]

My hvac control unit doesn’t work at all. Checked the hvac fuse and it was not blown. None of the buttons work and the blower is not coming on either if I turn the dial. Any ideas? New control panel? Thanks!

[@stevec588]

Well always check the easiest first. You did the fuse. Depending on your exact vehicle could be the relay (under hood or behind glove box, usually) or the blower motor resistor would probably be next. If you have good access you can just start at the blower motor, testing for power. Of course, if you have power at the motor, your motor is bad.

[@xvicermusic]

Steve Crosier thanks fo the quick reply and your advice! Looks like I have more to do. Much appreciated!!

[@fatimadnoor7563]

Hi again , how can I tell if mine is auto climate or manual climate? (2001 GMC JIMMY)

[@stevec588]

22 seconds into the video. If the temp control has numbers around it is automatic. Just color wheel, manual.

[@fatimadnoor7563]

@@stevec588 ok mine is just the red and blue My colored hoses (red, Blue, Yellow) have no vacuum… what could be wrong and how can I correct the issue?

[@stevec588]

@@fatimadnoor7563 what's it doing or not doing?

[@jeffreyallen6091]

The control on the far rite isn't working for me. Does anyone know what it's called

[@glamaFez]

This is a long shot (and I might do it myself now that I've seen your video), but if not, can you recommend anyone in the Kansas City area that can do this?

[@stevec588]

Sorry, not from around there.

[@stephensikes4280]

What would it be if my AC/Heat blow out of all three locations? So.. defrost, floor and vents? Also mine is a manual climate control.

[@Redtooth75]

The vents in these vehicles are controlled with vacuum, you most likely have a vacuum leak. The vacuum lines deteriorate and crack over time. The good news is they are pretty cheap. It could also be the vent control switch.

[@jeffreyreynolds2050]

Thank you very much. I had to buy one as I did not know what type of glue you used.

[@johnherbert4646]

Will this deal with the problem of a failure in floor heat?

[@stevec588]

Depends, if your referring to the floor heat stuck on cold, hot or changing between the two, then, yes. This actuator in the video is for temperature control only. If you are referring to a directional problem, for example, heat or cold not coming out defroster/dash/floor (1 of) vents or ONLY coming out defroster/dash/floor (1 of) vents then you want this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJ3XanRnqNVgarc

[@johnherbert4646]

thank you so much sir. I just feel no wind coming out the vent at the feet side.

[@genarator8989]

Hi, the video is extremely helpful, thanks. i have in my 97 tahoe some kind of a rectangular ring that should be attached somewhere to the actuator on the driver's side, this ring is what controls the air comes from front vents bottom vents, do you know where should i attach this ring?

[@mandy6516]

spot on video, should of watched before taking dash apart, not too bad of a job after watching this video, thanks!

[@cheyennewillard1270]

i have question, why would mine heat and cool as normal but if i trun off everything even vents it still blows hot heat like its coming from motor

[@stevec588]

cheyenne willard not sure, my guess would be this happens while your driving at higher speeds and the wind comes through the vents?

[@cheyennewillard1270]

even lower speeds, if i have hot on the defrost i still get air from front vents too

[@stevec588]

cheyenne willard kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJ3XanRnqNVgarc

[@panzerwaffen2873]

my question could sound stupid but,,can I use ac with door actuators disconnected?,,no door actuators,,,

[@Rgmekanic]

yes, but only if the blend door is sitting on the AC side. The actuator flipps a little door to switch between the evaporator (blocking the heater core) and the heater core (blocking the air from the evaporator) A bad actuator or bad door will cause you to have only AC or heat, or a mix, wherever it's stuck. But you can move them manually usually to one side if you don't want to do the repair, then it will permanently be in AC or heat.

[@panzerwaffen2873]

Rgmekanic thanks a lot for replaying my question ....one more question...driver side blow cold ..passenger side blow hot with temperature door actuators disconnected this is because something is stuck....how to set passenger door to blow cold air? Do i need to remove the dash for this? Btw..i have a c5 corvette...i apreciate any help thanks god bless

[@stevec588]

guillermo rodriguez Check out this thread for help more specific to Corvettes. Post #4 seems good. www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/1181319-guys-that-have-changed-your-left-hvac-actuator.html#post1552001125

[@panzerwaffen2873]

ohh thanks a lot

[@zomikiller]

Shit this was a huge help I was thinking of ways to just block off the heater core lol

[@ducklandwikeno]

steve you bought it from ebay . it will fit a 1998 chevy blazer LT with automatic temp control . mine is all over the place the gear is broke in it . you had to re calibrate it right .

[@jaydog4050]

Thanks a lot. Solved the issue with ease

[@mattzadworny]

My is not working, I don't know why, I took the actuator out, did visual check and all gears look fine. put it back, reset computer as in video. Then, I did test drive, happily warm air start blow but when I turn knob to cold it stuck their again. Any ideas ?

[@stevec588]

If it were me i would take the actuator back out and turn the metal rod (that the actuator slips over) back and forth by hand. This moves the blend door, It should move freely but only about an eighth of a turn. Don't force it. If it doesn't move some part of your door is broken or seized.

[@mattzadworny]

Door are fine cuz I can open-close them freely using my hand. What I did is I opened a door and do not install actuator back ;) It's cold in NJ so I don't need cold air for now, and I do not want to pay $150 for new actuator. Also, I did test by turning temperature knob with actuator in my hand so I can see how this thing is moving, and it looks like there is a problem with this little engine inside actuator. Once it worked then it stop in half way.

[@stevec588]

That was going to be my next suggestion. You can put a vise grip on the blend door rod to keep it in place for whatever season you're in(lightly, don't mar the rod). Also if you have a U Pull it parts yard in your area they usually sell actuators pretty cheap ($8 here)

[@89gtsmoke]

Excellent job sir

[@herbiecarr7169]

If you don't want to get one of those tools, wrap a string around your socket quite a few times real tightly, with a loop on the other end of the string. Pull the loop and the screw will come out in one shot. Same process, but other direction to put it back in.

[@bombdrizzle]

would this affect the speed controller....123 work but 4 doesnt

[@stevec588]

kweshins _ I don't think so. Sounds like the switch is the culprit. But, if memory serves, the high speed sometimes works on a separate wire/fuse but have not investigated that for this truck.

[@bombdrizzle]

Oh okay...I've replaced the blower motor resistor...but no luck. Like you said....must be a wire :/

[@stevec588]

Not sure what vehicle you have but great info on different forums. For example, if you have a blazer blazerforum.com/forum/ is a good one. Join for free, poke around a bit, do some searches and if that doesn't work post the question.

[@stevec588]

quick search over there found this. "Speed 4 bypasses the resistor and sends full battery voltage to the blower through a relay. If 4 is the only speed not working, the high blower relay is most likely the cause. The relay is located in the center of the firewall. There are 5 wires going to it, and it is approx 1" cube."

[@bombdrizzle]

+Steve Crosier....many thanks!! never would have to bought it required separate attention ...well done!

[@pamelaspendlove7708]

Help, my 91 Chevy S-10 had a foul odor coming from a/c vents, now it is shooting spark out the vent. Mechanic had no idea what is going on.

[@stevec588]

Pamela Spendlove I'll join the "No idea" crowd.

[@OnlyinThe508]

The actuator you moved to the side to keep out of the way is called what

[@stevec588]

At 2:20? Air duct controller?

[@philmanwarren3666]

cool i got it thanks guys now i have 136 f coming out of the heater i found it funny that none of the gears were broke thought so i just zi tied it for the winter and then ill zi tie it the other way in the summer

[@virgilstevens3356]

How much do you want for the actuator and climate control

[@lethal93ta]

I just bought a 98 bravada with the auto controls and the heat works when I have it set to max heat on the red dot but as soon as I move it 1 click back to the 82 degrees it starts to blow cold after a min, I was told the blend door actuator was already replaced? any ideas?

[@purpledoge4466]

What are the signs ofnit goin bad?

[@stevec588]

from :47-1:00......."If you have a problem controlling you heat setting...either stays all the way hot or all the way cold or varies between hot and cold"

[@purpledoge4466]

@@stevec588 mine comes and goes but my turn signal buzzer goes bananas and stars giving me a random missfires..but as soon it behaves the truck runs good.i think the climate control module is causing this electrical issue am not sure do.

[@stevec588]

As far as I know the actuator has nothing to do with the turn signal and what is "misfiring"?

[@philmanwarren3666]

i need help i only get warm air when its nice out any ideas I'm puzzled

[@stevec588]

Could be several things, easiest, have you checked the radiator coolant level.

[@harmescharmes]

+Phil manwarren Try to back flush the heater core. There are video's on how to do it. I just did it on my Mom's Jimmy because she had the same problem and it worked. I know this posting is 8 months old but maybe you still have this problem. Hope it helps. Curt

[@Jimicruz34]

Thank you... I have this same issue.. Great Vid!!!

[@MrSOUTHSIDE972]

I'm having trouble wiggling out the air duct controller any suggestions

[@stevec588]

not sure what to tell you. mine came out by rocking it a little with some upward pressure. all I can tell you is doing break any of the plastic mounts. Sorry I could be more helpful.

[@stevec588]

+Steve Crosier not "doing" but "don't"

[@stevec588]

+Steve Crosier and should be "couldn't" darn phone.

[@Waffles6997-q8b]

thanks man, I was ready to tear my shit apart lol

[@The_Phill_A_Blunt]

Nice I got one yesterday at the end of day and I did not want to yank the dash

[@Wiseacre79]

Thank you for this video!

[@marcoscardenas8813]

Thank you thank you thank you for this video. That was the issue in mine!!! Well one of them lol

[@JV-tk9yn]

I paid around $400 to have my blend door actuator replaced (the gear was cracked). But the shop told me my climate control was also bad and to buy another one. I did but it still only blows super hot or super cold. I'm not sure if the new actuator isn't still the problem...

[@tinaice1435]

Mine is were the wires where u unbolted the glove box and now the wires are tight

[@LarryTimmel]

97 Chevy Blazer glove box doesn't come out

[@windowreplacementagencywis5122]

Good job. cool stuff.

[@cleoo.D]

great video we have ac now

[@circuitprotector8693]

i used a little boxhead wrench.

[@mbrontiu]

I watched a bunch of these videos. They made it look easy. "Bullcrap". it was the biggest pain in the ass i have ever worked on. I even had the flex ratchet tool. You just can't get your hand back in there to get any leverage. And everything is in the way. Putting back in was even harder took me even longer. Becuase it has to line up right. I also ripped my hands open a bunch of times. This is the worst F**king design i have ever seen. Finally got mine out almost 2 hours later and It was still working fine when i tested it. Good thing too because The new part I bought from amazon for $28 ,Didn't even work. I tested both parts to see if it would work better. Man would i have been pissed. It would have been faster to just take the whole dash out. Becuase that way if actuator isn't broken, it's likely the heater core is plugged. Or its a broken blend door. Either way. At least you can replace any other faulty part right away while dash is all apart. So now i'm doing a rad flush and try to reverse flush the core at the same time. Hopefully that works. If not that means the core is pouched. Then it will be another 4 or 5 hour job.

[@tylerseabook9423]

That blue gear is the Potentiometer