Absolute Beginners To Machining : Day 2! More questions answered

[@RonCovell]

Delightfully comprehensive and detailed!

[@EngineerRaisedInKingston]

Picking up a new lathe tomorrow, and this video could NOT have come at a better time. Amazing work, Quinn.

[@bobd.]

As someone who did rigging throughout my 40 year working career I want to say you gave good overview on rigging and the cautions people need to consider if they are not familiar with these type operations. Thank you for taking the time to explain that.

[@ScumfuckMcDoucheface]

I've always thought that area of expertise was really rather interesting. Can you speak to how one would get into the trade? I'm assuming it's less "learn on the job" and more "drop a chunk of gold and years at school" now-a-days, eh? In North American terms, I'm just across the border in Canadiastan.

[@russelldold4827]

I have great respect for skilled rigging, having watched some true masters in industries ranging from mining to large-scale construction. I believe the mark of good rigging is - no drama. Carefully planned work executed without fuss.

[@danielabbey7726]

Yes, that was good advice. The last thing you want to do with a new machine is drop it on the floor or on a body part.

[@christianeriksson4733]

Yeah, the "dont make knots on slings" goes a long way as well as to not use ratchet straps for lifting.

[@robertpearson8798]

I tried firing a boiler once but all of the other boilers walked out in solidarity.

[@rallen7660]

One of the best moves I've ever seen was where the lathe was bolted down onto a reinforced concrete pad on the benchtop. It lowered the harmonic frequency of the system, and immediately improved the surface finish. That's why the old manuals always suggested you bolt the machinery to the shop floor. It wasn't to keep it from walking around the shop like some idiots keep saying. Anything you can do to mitigate vibration will help in accuracy and finish. That's why they balance race motors, it puts more power to the output and doesn't kill itself.

[@scottb8175]

I've had my benchtop lathe (same approximate size and weight as Quinn's) on top of a 52" rolling tool cabinet for 10+ years now with no issues. The cabinet is about 100 lbs, and there are about 350 lbs of lathe tools and accessories in the roller bearing drawers. The cabinet has 4" rubber tired wheels with locking swivel castors at one end and solid mount free rolling castors at the other. Its handy to be able to roll the machine away from the wall to re-acquire dropped parts. The lathe just sits on top of the cabinet, and I have a 1" MDF base under the lathe bed base, on top of a 1/4" rubber pad that is on top of a solid hardwood top that came with the cabinet. My lathe runs quiet; very little vibration. And it is stable (hasn't moved on the cabinet at all. No, I can't precisely level the machine, but the bed and ways checked flat and straight. My lathe produces very precise work, so it can't be very wrong. My floor is pretty level and flat in that spot, too.

[@lwoodt1]

This lady is one of the best and most knowledgeable channels to sub to. Every one can learn from her.

[@makerdave42]

An inspiring book to me was "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive" by Joseph F. Nelson. Unfortunately it's out of print now. 35+ years ago my family took a vacation at a cabin in the woods and that was one of the books that was on the self. It was so influential and inspiring, I took up machining as a hobby decades later. Still to this day I would love to build a locomotive. Even better my daughter is enthusiastic about it. Someday I'll have the time, space and money to consider building one.

[@leighmackay7486]

At the risk of repeating myself, you are KZbin’s Quinn-tisential machinist. Thanks.

[@bryanb7918]

As a connoisseur of brake clean, the best in terms of cleaning, evaporation time, damage to paint and plastic. The best brake clean is sold by a place called Crest industries. It’s only $2 a can, and it is THE best brake clean made.

[@53HOTROD]

Been watching the channel for awhile and enjoy watching you work. I pulled the trigger on a PM-1130V Lathe today, with an Oct/Nov delivery. Can’t wait to get it. Keep the channel going.

[@shelburnewilson2866]

Great video, but with an error that will confuse beginners and could result in damage to a machine. ISO 68 does NOT automatically mean way oil. ISO 68 refers to the viscosity of the oil. Look at your oil equivalence chart. Most entry level machines do use ISO 68 way oil, and Vactra #2 is ISO 68. Many other types of oil also come in ISO 68 viscosity. Most hobby type machine tools - and many classic industrial machines - use ISO 68 oil in their gearboxes. It is not way oil but rather machine oil or circulating oil. On the other hand, if you score a classic industrial grade shaper, it will likely need a heavier grade of way oil, perhaps Vactra #4. I have a turret drill that calls for Vactra #3. Try finding a source for it - only slightly easier to find than unobtanium. Like I said, a first rate video. Keep up the good work.

[@patwicker1358]

I love your sense of humor. You just say a joke and don't laugh at it or make a big deal about it. One really has to pay attention to what you are saying to get them. Like "I use the space behind the lathe to store stray chips"

[@TokenRing1024]

"Judgmental or Supportive" - Priceless

[@componenx]

It's good to have one of each, as they tend to nullify each other. My problem is that one is always in the way, and the other leaves hairballs/vomit piles that are fun to step on in the dark with bare feet!

[@tenlittleindians]

Yes, they do make non detergent motor oil too! It was recommended in all my 60's and 70's Honda motorcycle service manuals as well as the recommended oil for many lawn mower engines.

[@tomt9543]

NAPA sells a non detergent 30 weight. They don’t always have it on the showroom shelf, but usually have it “in the back”.

[@danielabbey7726]

Excellent point!

[@MichaelKJohnson]

I've been at this hobby for a few years now. Well past day 2 but still stuff to learn here. 🙂

[@theplasticdesert2408]

I can’t wait to use “critical loop of rigidity” in a sentence (that has nothing to do with matching)

[@CTXSLPR]

Great video to come inside to watch after an afternoon making chips on the mill. Thanks Quinn for helping me get going at making parts easily with excellent surface finish. Got the vice squared up, an end stop set and the edge finder out to knock out parts in 3/16in steel bar stock pretty quickly. Side milling 17.25in long cuts with 1/8in DoC was so easy once I had it set up an rigid!

[@tom_tom_go]

These types of videos always help me get that one step closer to buying a lathe so thank you for taking the time to make them, it is greatly appreciated!

[@oldironandy]

The British 'Tubal Cain' was Tom Walshaw (1912 - 1998).

[@codprawn]

Yes he was the original!

[@retromechanicalengineer]

The genuine article, beware of copies!

[@tonyc.4528]

@@codprawn The original was mentioned in the Bible, once.

[@codprawn]

@@tonyc.4528he was indeed!

[@codprawn]

@@retromechanicalengineer In fairness Mr Pete is a lovely bloke and has loads of fantastic videos on KZbin. He is right up there with my favourites. Blondihacks This old Tony Ca Lem Joe Pi Doubleboost Abom Etc

[@sioul2006]

One little addition maybe: In the German Airforce for all surfaces and ways we used Gun-Oil. Nice oil with a good grip on the surface, very nice for sliding surfaces like ways, relatively cheap and not sticky towards dust and other stuff! Also good anti-corrosion

[@SamGlasser]

I bought the stand that PM sells for their 1022, then bolted some 5/16ths by 3" bar stock across the bottom (front and back) then added some beefy castors. It became very easy to position my lathe as a result. Then I made some stand-offs upon which I placed some machinists jacks for leveling. Currently my lathe is level, with the weight resting on the jacks. Seems to be a very stable setup plus the few inches of extra height brings the work closer.

[@codprawn]

I have a far bigger lathe than you but I still learn a lot from your videos! Even us old hands pick up bad habits and forget the basics sometimes.

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Hi Quinn . Once you start holding larger out of balance parts in the lathe , you will then see the requirement for a very rigid mount either bolted to the floor or a proper solid bench . Cheers .

[@wolfitirol8347]

What I recognized with this serie if you ask a pro machinist you get the same answers as blondi gives she is really good.😇👍

[@htmagic]

I've had a hobby lathe and hobby milling machine for quite some time and some of your tips you gave is the first time I've heard them. Thank you for an informative video!

[@tonyshupe2334]

There is a monthly magazine called Live Stream that covers locomotives, stationary engines and marine engines that is very helpful in how to make tools that you need to do the project as well as building the project. I have a tote full of them and I never get tired of rereading them over and over.

[@tkuenzli1]

You can never have too many kitties in your videos! 😻😻😻

[@verigone2677]

My uncle set his last set of machines on top of .5" of Neoprene that compressed to a uniform 1/6 under the weight. The tables were all square tube like yours, but that was solely due to cost and availability...when you have about 200 feet of scrap square tube after a project you make something for your shop. He always said the table weight was more for not having to worry about how heavy he worked inside the machine and that the rubber was for helping remove resonant vibrations which he claimed was far more likely to cause you trouble than your machine itself not being rigid enough. He explained to me watching the resonant vibration destroy a Navy Diesel Submarine engine and rip it right out of its testing housing

[@stampeder1686]

Another awesome video!! Just downloaded the Machine Shop Practice volumes 1&2 and ordered The Amateur's lathe. Thanks for the suggestions. Full disclosure, one of my neighbors in Thunder Bay, Ontario built his own 7 inch steam engine/coal car/ and kid riding cars in his huge back yard. That was about 60 years ago. I have fond memories of riding around the rail circuit he also built. Had thoughts of building one but went and laid down until the thought passed. It took him 10 years to build the whole setup. Can't wait for the Day 3 video to come out. Keep them coming. Now I have to go order some oil for my lathe and some more WD 40......

[@_AvaGlass]

1:38 "Don not remove the knobs" Quality stuff, Precision Matthews.

[@carlwilson1772]

I'm glad to see you have many of the UK publications. Sparey is a must for anyone with a small lathe. Another British book I recommend is Workshop Technology by Dr. W. A. J. Chapman. This two part book is a set text on many engineering courses at various levels. It covers every machining related topic you could imagine in great detail, yet is at the same time accessible. I've had my part one and two since I was 17 and still refer to them often.

[@nicksacco6024]

Hey Quinn, I am looking to get into machine with a lathe and a friend referred me to you and your channel! Thanks very much for these videos - a lot to drink at once! Great substance without all the BS - Thank you.

[@sendtosurge]

What an incredible resource this channel is Quinn. Thank you. I didn’t subscribe for this type of content, but that’s not a complaint. I’m very glad to see what else you think is important to know. I didn’t know all the things that I didn’t know.

[@yt66228]

I have a bucket just for brass shavings and scrap. When full I usually get about $50 for it. Also, remove handles from machines when moving. they ger bent easy. My 12" lathe is on a rigid base and when machining if I lean on to machine I can see a deflection on a light cut. I no longer rest on my lathe on a final precision cut.

[@bradjohnson6919]

Hi Quinn, I'm a break cleaner connoisseur. My favorite is the NAPA non chlorinated house brand. It doesn't smell bad is doesn't burn your hands. I think the chemistry of the O'REILLY'S changes and sometimes it seems like it's just acetone.

[@paulbyerlee2529]

I am a fitter by trade but I still found value in this video particularly the literature recommendations. Thanks Quinn 👍

[@michaelardai9703]

Shop cat vs. shop dog depends on whether you need a cat scan or a lab report...

[@1Barrel2u]

I am always fascinated with your approach top sharing our great trade with others. You were sharing things in this video that i was only coming aware of after several years of working in the trades. I was initially only concerned with making a living and keeping ahead of the shop foreman's often scary ways of discovering my deficiencies. Keep sharing your knowledge, it is refreshing.

[@plunder1956]

I was suddenly jolted by the size of your mill. I've only ever used the Bridgeport in my friend's Sheffield workshop. The milling vice alone weighs over 100 kg, so we use a chain block. His main lathe is a pre-war Holbrook that would regard my Myford Super 7 as a toothpick. Most tools in his workshop require a fork lift, or steel bar rolers & heavy crowbars. it's all old but massive.

[@mikefisc9989]

I am very appreciative of the time and effort you put into making this video series. Thank you.

[@cwgreen1938]

Quinn, I knew you were a good machinist but I didn't know that you were such a good welder. The workbench looks nice and it has to be stronger than a bull elephant. I enjoy watching you work because you do things exactly correct most of the time. Short cuts are not in your vocabulary. That is good.

[@sharkrivermachine]

Well done, Quin.

[@michaeljohnson-li5nn]

Quinn, one book (if you can call it that) that may be of interest to the amateur machinist is the Zeus Reference guide. Obviously it does not cover any subject in any great detail but it does contain a wealth of information on everyday machining values conversion charts etc..etc.. The beauty of this guide is it is small enough to be kept in the pocket of your overalls and the pages are laminated to keep them protected from grease and coolant. Rolls-Royce had their own version of this guide printed which contains similar information, but also referenced certain RR standards and fits. I was presented with my copy of this guide on completion of my RR apprenticeship. It’s still in reasonable condition after all these years, wish I could say the same about me!

[@handsofrhythm3415]

Great video. Really appreciated the book recommendations, you just transferred many years of research and experience on your behalf in a very short time. Thank you.

[@grantwagner6781]

Thank you so much for this. Especially the recommendation for the "Shop Familiar". I don't understand why this isn't more widely known.

[@hydrophaintconcepts4675]

A lot of the oils prior to 1972 came from the Sperm Whale, is was predominantly used in Automatic Transmissions. When they became on the endangered species list, manufacturers had to create synthetic based oils. Great Videos!

[@seamus6387]

Great info and love the tips on the books! Most people don't realize that a lot of old trade manuals are still viable and that a big commercial model from say 50 years ago made today would be a cheap toy for a hobbiest.

[@atheistsfightclub6684]

Not forgetting of course the most essential space in the shop, the clear bit of floor where you can go full Darth Vader when you realise you just scrapped a part you've been working on for hours.

[@ScumfuckMcDoucheface]

Atheists fighting each other or religious folks? I can only hope the first rule of Atheist Fight Club is "freely talk about and explain Atheist Fight Club to anyone that asks"

[@atheistsfightclub6684]

@@ScumfuckMcDoucheface The first rule is bring a sewing kit if you're going to insist that pineapple does not belong on pizza but anchovies do... I used to use my real name and it was pointed out to me that my employer at the time might take issue with some of my discussions, so i pulled a new name out of the air for the purposes of minimal obfuscation.

[@ScumfuckMcDoucheface]

@@atheistsfightclub6684 hahaha fair enough... obfuscation, what an absolutely, utterly beautiful and sooorely underused word, 10 points. I can think of nothing better than a pizza loaded up with pepperoni, ham, bacon, double pineapple and hot peppers... with ranch dipping sauce... ugh, there goes 30 bucks out of my wallet =/

[@atheistsfightclub6684]

@@ScumfuckMcDoucheface My mum was conned into buying a bunch of books by a door to door salesman, i learned to read using encyclopedias and dictionaries. =)

[@ScumfuckMcDoucheface]

@@atheistsfightclub6684 haha rad, I learned with my mom's drug and anatomy text books, she was teaching nursing at the local college at the time... rather unrelated but interesting - when she got sick of that she went back to nursing and did in home healthcare as an RN..... as a 5 foot tall white as snow Canadian RN... in the deepest darkest ghettos in Detrroit for years, fuckin' crazy stories. Mom's are cool.

[@michaelhazen8658]

to put the chip recycling into perspective: years ago I worked in a production fabricator (engine valve seats mostly) the shop had a foundry, ingots of a particular nickel steel alloy and three lathes (two CNC, one double turret production manual) and a double wheel grinder. ALL of the chips produced went into 55 gallon drums. on "pour days" when we would pour out molds (80 sand molds per pour) the crucible would be heated with some ingots and mold scrap and then chips tossed in as it came up in temp. We would go through 3-4 drums of chips in a crucible load without appreciably adding volume to the crucible's contents. except for slag. lots and lots of slag. so much skin roasted while fishing for slag... so its not worth the energy cost, labor time or equipment to melt chips for the home gamer. (i question whether it was even worth it for the shop I was at, TBH)

[@stanburton6224]

For gearbox oils, make sure and use a synthetic oil. They have much more lubricity for a given viscocity of oil, and they have a higher heat limit than mineral oils. In fact you can often use a lower viscocity synthetic oil than you can a mineral oil, which reduces "windage" losses increasing efficiency somewhat.(often limited usefulness though)

[@SimJackson]

Add LBSC's 'Shop Shed and Road' or 'The Live Steam book' to your list of locomotive books. They're basically the same book just printed at different times but have plenty of information about various details that aren't always on locomotive plans, depending on who drew them 😉

[@Festivejelly]

I cant bloody wait to get my lathe, I have so many ideas for small projects.

[@bbjuneau]

PM suggested Coleman Fuel for cleaning the gunk off of my new PM-1340. It worked great, was cheap and left no residue.

[@DavidLindes]

8:36 - oh, Quinn… I laughed, and I also groan. And I love it. Keep being you. You’re fun. ☺️

[@jimsvideos7201]

Awww hello Sprocket 🥰 There are two families of brake cleaner, the ones that have chlorine (and are non-flammable) and the ones which don't have chlorine (and are flammable); I might lean towards the non-chlorine ones for the sake of the copper alloys and the rubber bits.

[@magicoddeffect]

Chlorinated brake cleaner is also a serious risk for any parts that get exposed to high temperature -- anyone who does any welding or high-temperature cutting or grinding should never, ever use it in their shop. Tetrachloroethylene, the "chlorinated" solvent in chlorinated brake parts cleaner, turns into extremely deadly phosgene gas when exposed to high temperatures.

[@roberttaylor2328]

@@magicoddeffect, well said. The odor of phosgene is like that of newly cut hay, and if you smell that, you have already been poisoned.

[@drevil4454]

I always put my milling machine to the left of the lathe. I use the table as a rest for material sticking out from the lathe's headstock.

[@cvuxton]

I'm cleaning a 58 year old Logan Lathe and have amassed a world class collection of degreasers and cleaning products. A word of caution here, always wear gloves, safety glasses, and clean in an open area, or in front of a fan. I'm going to repaint my baby (14"x40") back to the original gray so some of what I've found doesn't matter, BUT, while brake cleaner is one of my go to cleaners, it will take paint off. Even light sprays will do it. The Logan has evaporated grease everywhere. For the really hard stuff I use Goof Off. I'll use brake cleaner too but again, it'll take the paint off. But so does Goof Off. Be careful. My final go to is Purple Power, full strength. Under $5.00 a gallon. Buy a spray bottle and reload it from the jug. It was great to take the light dried on grease off but...it'll gag you with the fumes and gloves are really important. Puppy pee pads are great to catch degreasers and the small ones are less than $5.00 a pack at Wally World. Ditch the pads before they leak through. Takes about 30 mins.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great video. I see you are trying to get people hooked on model building. Are model boilers a gateway drug?

[@ScumfuckMcDoucheface]

pfft... as if you disnt know....

[@lyleadams4367]

When I put my South Bend 9A on my bench I took it apart. Put the bed on and leveled it then headstock, gearbox then the rest.

[@andrewgr144]

If you're getting one of the heavier hobby lathes, and/or if you need to navigate through tricky doors or staircases, you might consider hiring professional riggers (search under 'riggers' online). I had professionals come in and de-crate my lathe, assemble the stand, attach the lathe to the stand, fit it through a doorway in my garage that had only about 2" of clearance, and position it exactly where I wanted. The stand and lathe together weigh 1,350 pounds. The rigging cost me $1,300, which certainly isn't cheap; but I'm not at all sure I could have done it, even with a friend or two. It wasn't necessary for my Mill, which weighed only 400 pounds. Anyway, just an option to keep in mind.

[@JonBanquer]

Hi, Quinn. I'm so impressed with your video's that I have been mentioning you on LinkedIn. I'd like to add that mineral spirits is also very good for removing Cosmoline and is my preferred go to.

[@stevekelly6332]

Not a total noob but I love your logical well-presented tutorials!

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

A very nice collection of literature Quinn 😊. I had a shop dog and a shop cat up until last October... now I'm sad 😥. Thankfully my shop dog is very supportive... ok, happy again 🙂. Great video, very informative! Cheers!

[@jerrywallis8825]

Love your videos. I have one lathe at home and two at the shop. The more I learn it seems the more I don't know.

[@WatchmakerErik]

So when I learned machining the Machining Fundamentals book was my textbook. I didn't think it was all that bad but we did more teaching each other than just learning straight from the book. Oh, and we did all our spot drilling with a center drill and it worked just fine. 😁

[@cooperised]

Quick note on castings, the castings for many of Tubal Cain's and Martin Evans' designs are still available here in the UK. Try Reeves or Blackgates Engineering. A lot of these designs are still very popular projects today.

[@roscocsa]

just saw your interview vid. it was great!

[@cowasakiElectronics]

Another excellent video. I really want to set up a metal working workshop and am counting down the days till I retire... well years and its 5.

[@skunkjobb]

When I installed my lathe, an old Swedish made about the same size as yours, I removed the tail stock, carriage and the motor. Then two quite strong guys could barely lift it by hand. Doing that with the complete assembled lathe would have been too much but this way, I didn't need any lifting equipment which would have been hard to get into my small basement shop.

[@keithdavis00]

Voice of sanity, thank you.

[@johnelliott4521]

Did not see links, but will rewatch and make list, thanks so much.

[@GaryT1952]

Pedagogery...whew..had to look that one up. Come to Blondihacks for the machining, stay for the English 101

[@davidmajersky1969]

I just found your channel today and I find your videos very interesting.

[@chrismorris8695]

Metal salad tongs make a fantastic tool for cleaning out chip pans.

[@lespertzel7055]

Thank you for an excellent introduction, well thought out and informative without a lot of hyperbole.

[@cynic-al]

I used to weigh in my scrap when I was into cars more but your right, its not worth having swarf clogging up the place for the value you get for it. Now I dump it in the scrap skip at work. Atleast that way it gets recycled instead of going to land fill.

[@firebird8600]

Yay! It's Blondihacks time!

[@paulshouse524]

A great resource for more esoteric and/or old-timey machining information is Lindsay Publications, now known as Your Old Time Bookstore. I have no connection to them beyond amazed admiration for they things you can find there.

[@Rustinox]

At 8:36 As a hobbyist i have the luxury to allow myself to have lots of places for that purpose :-) Nice video Quinn. As always.

[@steveallen8987]

Really looking forward to see the vertical mill on the beach all video. Steve

[@johnsavoy980]

Small comment on 2 of today subject, 1, If you want to know the answer you have to ask the question,2 recycle whenever possible, it may take years but do it, you maybe surprised the odd uses for chips, cast iron, brass,and bronze chips can be used in epoxy, bronze can be cast into a new round stock, A small bronze round bar is $$$

[@henrydando]

25:35 Those faceplate setups give me an idea for a challange for you quinn, I challange you to make a project that would normally be considered a mainly mill project without the mill, just the lathe. Of course you can use other tools like the portaband. No vertical mill slides either.

[@richard-sim]

Wait... the Tubal Cain of the books is not Mr Pete?! Mind blown. Thanks for the rundown of the books especially; I've got quite a collection already, but from your descriptions I'll be picking up quite a few more that I'd skipped over (or not even come across!) in the past as they didn't seem meaningfully different from some of the others I already own. Publishers really need to watch this video to understand how to write the blurbs for their books! I'm lucky enough to have a large local model railway engineering club; I was a member for a few years, and the skills and knowledge in their membership was amazing. I slipped away as nearly everyone there is well beyond retirement age, and their operating hours reflected that unfortunately. I'd love to get back involved to suck some of that juicy knowledge out of their brains, but I have to figure out how to work less first...

[@celtic1522]

I tend to service lathes as part of my trade; ISO 32, 46, and 68 is what all chinese products use from what I have seen. This hydraulic oil is what we use as diblock or bed oil too. Any oil on the bed is better than none but a bed can never have enough oil, my own personal opinion. The oil is all that flushes the chips out of the working surfaces. Be careful with compressed air around machine tools, it blows stuff just where you don't want it to be if you blow in the wrong direction...

[@joshwalker5605]

content free comment to drive engagement numbers for my favorite channel

[@clydedecker765]

Again a tour de force, Quinn. You are fantastic at making an easily understandable dissertation on what could be a confusing subject. Not sure about the zoo inhabitants but cats are wise. Too bad they still think they are the boss -- always.

[@terrinewman5954]

Quin. I have two so far and looking at a third! David Finner mini late tools and projects and Neil Wyatt.lathe work for beginners I got those from little machine shop!

[@darrinswanson]

We love us some Sprocket... We also love us some Quinn!

[@TIO540S1]

In books I’d add Guy Lautard’s “Machinist Bedside Reader” series. They may be out of print but can be found.

[@donkinzer5718]

Seconded. I was about to add the same comment.

[@robertpearson8798]

I have a friend who swears by that series.

[@TIO540S1]

@@ChazzC Yeah, it’s a shame that they’re out of print and difficult to get. I have all three and $544 would not tempt me to sell any of them.

[@danielabbey7726]

Yes, have all three TMBRs. Very expensive now, but they're great! Excellent tips/tricks!

[@TIO540S1]

@@ChazzC To each their own, My point of indifference would be higher but I’m fortunate enough to be able to afford tooling.

[@dbayboyds409]

Oil info was fascinating.

[@berserk7111]

I'm glad I watched this video. That whale oil was getting expensive. ;)

[@noelhenderson700]

Us Canajuns do tend to mumble and run our words together. It's probably something to do with the climate.

[@bobd.]

plus snagging a whale ain't as easy as it used to be. :-)

[@ratdude747]

Early ATF blends did indeed contain sperm whale oil as a rust inhibitor... but such was rightfully banned in the 70's. Which isn't all that long ago, when you think about it. Edited to correct some misremembered facts.

[@henritheron3050]

Awesome Quinn! I finally got my first lathe yesterday, an old myford with all the bells and whistles well looked after :) hopefully worth my college trimester fund XD thanks for the inspiration and quite useful info :) from South Africa

[@welshknight1456]

Excellent presentation.

[@pseudoengineere2469]

Bolt it to a beach ball, LOL. True indeed I used my sieg mill for a couple of years before I got to try a Bridgeport… it was… enlightening

[@jameshodgson1609]

Really interesting selection of books. I’ll come back to this video for my Christmas list ! Edit now I’ve only gone and bought The Amateur’s Lathe on Amazon (bit cheaper in the Uk) !

[@kevinmartin7760]

Regarding way oils, ISO 68 is just a viscosity grade, and has nothing to do with whether it is a way oil. Same for the #2 in "Vactra #2". The important point about way oils is that they leave a film rather than draining off open surfaces completely. One way of measuring this is the "tack" of the oil. In a regular journal bearing, the oil is held in indefinitely by capillary action/surface tension, but on an open bearing surface like lathe ways, the oil needs to stay put on its own. The tack of the oil represents sort of an increase in viscosity as the oil film gets thinner, so as the film gets thinner is drains off more and more slowly, and so takes a long time to drain away completely. That being said, I've heard that Vactra ain't what it used to be. Sometime around the late 20th century (1980's maybe?) it was reformulated (perhaps to conform with some environmental requirements?) in a manner that reduced its tack, making it less suitable as a way oil than when the machinery manufacturers recommended it in the first half of the 20th c. Lately what I've been using as a way oil is Vacuoline 1409 (I hope I remember that number correctly) which apparently is fairly close to the original Vactra oil. I also use it on the sliding and rolling surfaces on the various old-timey printing presses I run.

[@speedbuggy16v]

LOL @ space for chip storage. Speaking of weird oil, looking at you southbend! ARGH..... more books to buy, its a good thing I like books! I dont think I will ever build a loco, but I think I have to check out that book, that looks like a really good book just to peruse even if I dont build one. Love your videos!

[@bookie60]

Saw those Fireball allen sets. Nice.

[@Blondihacks]

A gift from a viewer at the Bar Z Bash! They are beautiful and work super well

[@IngvarMattsson]

I guess for a cheese lathe, you'd use whey oil?

[@robertpearson8798]

That was a gouda one.

[@zaraak323i]

I've seen cheddar.

[@bobsaschmuck]

Is that refined from curd oil?

[@danielabbey7726]

And on surface plates, you should smear some blue cheese to check high spots.

[@robertpearson8798]

@@danielabbey7726 Use limburger and they’ll all be high spots.