'Blue spot' Torque spec

[@L3v3LLIP]

I dont have a troque wrench or specs, but I always tighten until I hear a click or something and it works brilliantly!

[@Stephane1995]

Instructions unclear, got copper grease into my toaster

[@saifcathum3423]

I don't plan on ever removing the blanking plugs on my calipers. That being said, I do like the technique you used to determine the correct torque value.

[@YAMR1M]

The ISR calipers are obviously rebuildable but not by the customer and the tool to take them apart is an importer only part. Acke has a price for the tool, when I was importing them at least, it was importer only. Funny enough there is no torque setting for those caps either, not for the customer at least. Those calipers also pre-date the Sumitomo calipers by about 10 years If I remember correctly. I am glad the caliper came in handy in the end.... You have had that for a while... haha. It would be good to see a video on adjustable ratio master cylinders like the Brembo RCS which you can switch between two different ratios and the adjustable ISR one which can be adjusted over a range and not just two ratios. People do get confused about master cylinder bore sizes and ratios even to the point where a friend who is a bike dealer told me I was wrong when I suggested a change of master cylinder bore size when he was adamant the issue was with the caliper. Long story but the lever had a LOT of travel and he claimed it was an issue with the caliper and it would fail on track. The bike would life the back wheel with two fingers in 4th gear so it was not the caliper. I gave him one of my bigger piston master cylinders to test and it was too big to be honest but proved a point. The rider likes that much firmer short travel feel and it fixed the issue. The same could have been done to a point with a different lever ratio but it was as its limit with this application so a bigger bore would have really been needed.

[@katywalker8322]

On one bike I swapped in a smaller bore master Brembo cylinder. I rode it 8 miles each way and swapped it back off. More lever travel, but a LOT of power. Useable in normal riding, but a bit sharp - but in an emergency I suspect I would have locked the wheel and landed on the road before I knew what had happened!

[@YAMR1M]

@@katywalker8322 I always set my ISR master cylinder so if I squeeze as hard as I can I can get two fingers between the lever and the bar (JUST) then I know I have a decent brake feel and if I want more power I can adjust it a little to allow me to get a bit more power when I want.

[@spatchist]

I've always wondered about marking fasteners and re- installing to the mark(s). Blue spot calipers were my favourites - almost immune to road salt , pads (toast ?) always wore evenly and simple to replace when needed.

[@Henrik.Yngvesson]

On some bicycle brakes you can buy those caps in different colours so that's one reason people remove them. Might be an option for motorcycles too.

[@TheCerovec]

Hope has those caps on their calipers. I have magura calipers and the caps are just cosmetic.

[@Henrik.Yngvesson]

Hope are the best!

[@michaelblackmore4634]

I sent my Blue spots off to be overhauled, I supplied genuine Yamaha seals and I got a phone call to say the blue spots were leaking, I gave them permission to replace the seals on them. The purpose of sending them off was because I couldn't get them to bleed properly. Great video 😊

[@Snail-g1g]

Thought you were going to test a bluespot brand torque wrench

[@3kdn]

Another excellent informative video. Thank you.

[@TornadoCAN99]

These "blue spot" setups remind me very much of the 1974 Norton Commando which has a front brake caliper from "Lockheed"....it is a single pot with two pistons, caliper is a single alu casting, not two halve held together with bolts. So to remove the pistons, an end cap is threaded into one side...cap has two holes to take a pin-wrench for removal/re-installing.

[@keithf8890]

Matt did you see Dels battery vid yesterday?

[@pinussylvestris]

I allways tighten until something cracks. Then I buy a new one and therefore now that the Torque is right.👍

[@Chris71920]

Tighten til it cracks, then back it off 1/4 turn 😅

[@vikingbiker]

​@@Chris71920was waiting for some to say this.

[@valiyzf600]

Excellent video, Matt! I have, out of curiosity, done a few location markings on some fasteners on my 500cc Gilera Nexus, like on the variator nut, clutch nut, rear wheel nut, brake caliper mounting bolts etc. There are known torque values on each of this fasteners in the service manual, some as low as 25 Nm up to 175 Nm. As long as I do them up correctly with the torque wrench, don't put lube where there shouldn't be any etc, they always stop on those marks once the torque value is set.

[@rustygardhouse7895]

The ATE calipers on my R65 BMW were the splt type. To replace the pistons and service their bones was a pain without splitting them. ATE did publish a torque spec for the clamping bolts in the piston rebuild kits then quit. The kits still come with the o-ring for the halves but ATE refuses to provide a torque spec. I suspect this is a litigious issue, not a mechanical one.

[@Stephane1995]

Got the news yesterday that Brembo bought ohlins, curious to see how that'll influence both product lines in the future

[@shaunappleton5153]

I have blue spots on my 1998 R1, looks like someone tried to get a blue spot out without the tool as it is mashed up. It looks crap and I thought about replacing it - think I'll just get a complete caliper from eBay now. Thanks

[@stevesanelli90]

Brilliant deduction Mr. Sherlock. Did you mark them with the real sharpie or the fake one?😉

[@Matt-we7si]

AS ADVISED BY EBC

[@Bugside]

So those are just to plug bore holes used to machine the monoblock caliper? The pistons happen to push against them right?

[@dreddwailing5505]

Yes

[@H-M-78]

What about also put a very small amount of Loctite to the outer edge?

[@dirtygarageguy]

No. Don't remove them

[@Motoinc]

ISR is Swedish if iam not mistaken. Heja Sverige

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

Does putting red rubber grease on the o-rings change the torque setting?

[@Angel-rg9dh]

It does!

[@schelmean16]

how many did you do? and how big was the deviation between them?

[@dirtygarageguy]

8. The deviation deviation doesn't matter.

[@schelmean16]

@@dirtygarageguy👍 you mean it was small?

[@dirtygarageguy]

I mean that physics doesn't change in a mechanical device we deisgned and built. What did you want a 5 sigma result? Take the following. 38mm x 0.8 thread - 6061 aluminium that's anodised. What torque would you expect it to be? around 20 to 30Nm. Now take a sample size of 8 with cleaned out thread and dry. Mark them all and undo 2, then using a gauge wrench tighten to the mark. Now with the other 6 use a click style wrench and set it to that figure. With all the marks finishing within a degree or two of each other there's your answer. Here's a question, what number would make you satisfied, remember before this moment, it was a guess.

[@schelmean16]

@@dirtygarageguyjust out of interest since you're always all about transparent and scientific experiments. i wanted to get an idea of your numbers. Good to hear it was easy enough to figure out a specific setting without deviation from corrosion, dirt or oil(brake fluid) from inside. Thanks

[@JSmith19858]

Doesn't the manual say to not remove them?

[@UnCivilEngineerIRL]

Yes, but so did Matt ... several times throughout this and other videos. Clearly you didn't watch/listen ... well done.

[@JSmith19858]

@@UnCivilEngineerIRL oh no, I did listen. Believe me, I did listen.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Really?

[@JSmith19858]

You should feel a bit of pride. You finished a how to video series even if it was two years from start to finish. Maybe don’t get so triggered next time

[@dirtygarageguy]

LOL triggered? I asked you a one word question. That word was 'really?' - Is that a triggered responce?

[@233kosta]

Is it better to use a torque wrench or to mark them before they come off and make sure they end up where they were?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Don't remove them.

[@233kosta]

@@dirtygarageguy Agree, but like you said - some people don't listen.

[@robn4113]

Could the torque spec on a radial, more modern Silverspot be different from the older axial Bluespot?

[@dirtygarageguy]

it doesn't matter, you shouldn't be taking them off

[@robn4113]

@@dirtygarageguy I agree Matt. But since you provide a torque spec for the Silverspots I became curious about the difference in caliper. Thx for the content!

[@RedRupert64]

Almost ten minutes of video for about a minute's worth of information. How are they sealed - I think I saw an O-ring, so that's one reason to remove the plugs. Or, perhaps one would like to refinish the caliper.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Just no.

[@thruxt0677]

My guess was 24

[@brockett]

Toast clipers Ha1 Ha! Ha! Education and humour have a 'like'.

[@Chambers36TheEnter]

You don't need a torque setting, you know when to stop because, you'll feel it !👆 I guess they just didn't want the liability of idiots cross threading the caps or pinching a seal when putting them back in so just said don't remove them. You know what? We don't want you to remove these so we're going to anodise them blue so they stand out.

[@dirtygarageguy]

They made a key that you don't have the tool for.

[@albinklein7680]

I got the tool for those caps made by a friend of mine who works in a dentist's lab. I did an Imprint with "Sugru" and he made a tool out of surgical steel with that imprint. I just unscrew those caps and screw them back in. I never ever worried about torque specs to be honest.

[@Chambers36TheEnter]

I agree, they are only brakes after all, just there for show.

[@literal_lee]

I overhauled mine without ever taking the blanking plates out. It was a pain to free the stuck pistons, but eventually I got them all out. 😎🤘🏻 Del just has no clue. 🤪

[@damiondavid536]

I had guessed 28Nm ........... so close

[@NickTaylorRickPowers]

I was thinking way higher

[@chrislambert505]

Great brakes those blue spots - were on my Thunderace, bled them myself - using Dels videos - then I woke up, realised what I was doing and checked the Haynes manual as well as other videos by Thunderace owners 🤣. Never any issues with them just doing bleed and general maintenance…. with lashings of copper grease naturally 😉

[@martinfretwell]

Never use a torque wrench after using copper slip or thread loc . You may strip the threads

[@dirtygarageguy]

what?

[@SoLSamuraibloodblade]

Wait till Del sees this. It will trickle into one of his videos.

[@gafrers]

Blue are for Professional Racers only. 🤣🤣

[@forevercomputing]

Watch Del do this and claim how this was how he knew. Or, "You'll feel it" Some people are heavy handed.