Bluetti Charger 1 on a smart alternator car

Please READ - Connect Positive first, then the negative - when removing remove the Negative first, then the Positive. at 54 seconds I explain it the INCORRECT way (Just remember First off, Last on for Negative).
I bought for Bluetti Charger 1 for $399 member price with the Cables combined.
It is connected to the Bluetti AC180 and in my GWM Tank 300.
Charger 1, Ac180, Buletti

[@danieljohnson5749]

Negative terminal off first and last back on to eliminate arcing the positive cable or tool to anything.

[@AmpedupTank]

This is correct, thanks for bringing it to my attention - I DID explain it INCORRECTLY within the video. I am attempting to PIN your comment. Please make sure you Connect the Positive first, then the negative. when taking it off, Negative then Positive. I should have re-watched the video before uploading (this was unedited footage)

[@joebloggs24]

Thanks Jordan, your setup will be very similar to mine, with AC180 & smart alternator on a car. Looking forward to receiving my Charger 1 in a month (backordered 🙁) but after that should be a steady 500W while doing the general driving around town!

[@AmpedupTank]

@joebloggs24 you'll have a awesome setup mate!

[@joebloggs24]

@@AmpedupTank I received my Charger 1 yesterday, a few things I've learned since: 1) My car (VW Golf Mk7 2015) is getting a bit old, and the battery is 5 years old, doesn't quite like the 56V pull from the Charger 1, so I decreased it 20%, and worked my way back up, 1V extra each time, and 50V is the sweet spot! Battery at 13V, Charger 1 draws 525W, Power Station receives 500W or just shy at 486-500W. The 3% is not that important if I'm concerned about my battery voltage dropping below 12, or alternator being worked extra hard. 2) There is no On/Off switch for Charger 1 itself, just the breaker, which turning off under load or on with load does do a small amount of internal damage over time. I do, where possible, disable the "Charging" slider in the Bluetti App prior to flicking the breaker off, in the hope it reduces the wear and tear on the components within the breaker. Otherwise, it's a fantastic unit, and charges well for minimal extra fuel / wear on the car parts.

[@XrangabangaX]

Great Vid helped me out heaps very detailed and clear with instructions

[@daemoncan2364]

IF I may make a suggestion... I would have put the breaker as close to the battery as possible (In case of short circuit along the cable run to the back).

[@AmpedupTank]

great call out I'm going to order a weatherproof 60amp and put it I'm the engine bay on the positive by cutting it and crimping/heat shrinking :)

[@roundstone2020]

I was thinking the same thing as soon as I saw the breaker

[@ranman5501]

Wouldn’t the breaker kick no matter where it is?

[@AmpedupTank]

@ranman5501 yes it will break, but from the point of the battery to the breaker, the wire is still live. So you have a live wire going through the vehicle, it is safer to shorten the distance of the live wire, so putting the breaker towards the battery would be the safer option :)

[@ranman5501]

@@AmpedupTank ahh. Now I understand what you’re saying. Yes that does make more sense. Thanks for the reply!

[@marinejunkies9625]

would it not be better to connect the negative to the chassis?