BMW E46 M3 Rear Subframe Reinforcement + X-Brace install (Puretech X Brace)

[@NorCAL_Stacker]

How did you make the holes on the carpet inside the trunk perfect for x brace so it looks clean and OEM

[@joshthebavarian]

Good question! I left the carpet in place when I drilled the pilot holes from the bottom of the car, and that gave me perfect position for the carpet holes! Then I made the holes larger with a 2” hole saw and that fit perfectly for the x-brace

[@PRAGEETHKARUNADHEERA]

Thanks for sharing your pain and the steps you went through to get rid of all of it. I'm grateful that whole community now has more resources on fixing their M3 cars, the proper way.

[@joshthebavarian]

what an honor! Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed it my man! Ill see you around!

[@povertyvoyager]

I love your attention to detail as a car enthusiast. Doing this yourself, and doing it properly is one of the things that will keep the community alive for long.

[@joshthebavarian]

Hey Juan, thanks man I appreciate that! If my videos can help just one other enthusiast, than that is enough for me! I grew up learning everything I could from the old forums, so this is sort of my way of giving back, while having some fun in the process. Thanks again dude!

[@deplorabledave1048]

Bro, you are hilarious. What a great sense of humor. The "winning" clips must have taken a bit of work. VERY much appreciated. MY journey on my 2005 E46M3 which I used to track and still beat on: Year: Early 2009. Car still under warranty. Had only 20K miles, but I wanted the sub frame welding done BEFORE cracks came. Materials: 1)Set of plates from HPF AND Turner(TMS). 2)Lengthy step-by-step print out with photos..... Included opening up INSIDE of the trunk and then welding the access holes shut. 3)One very experienced welder at Redline BMW in Pompano Beach Florida. He mixed and matched and used what he thought best from each plate supplier. He claimed he went above and beyond and made the mount areas strong enough for huge boost HP and TQ should I ever desire that option. The cost back then was a hefty 1,100 just in his labor and materials. Cost of the plates kits was not included in that amount. So close to $1500 total. I heard many people doing it for much less. However, I believe I got what I paid for. I had poly bushings added to the subframe at the same time. I replaced the bushings two years ago and the mount areas were pristine!!

[@joshthebavarian]

hahah thank you dude, im glad i didnt miss the mark on that one! And also nice man! Youre right, alot of the plates are shaped differently, from company to company, my main reason for Turner was their "time in field", seeing as how theyve had a number of competing chassis. Figured they would know exactly what the cars would ultimately need. Good to hear that your cars holding up, even all these years later! Makes me excited to put some real miles on this car. See you around bro!

[@michaelblacktree]

I'll be doing this job on my non-M E46 pretty soon. That guide bolt for the drill bit is pretty ingenious.

[@joshthebavarian]

Yeah man, it’s a great piece of hardware! The Puretech kit is great because it included everything to great you Going. Feel free to hmu if you had any questions while your in the thick of things. 🤙🤘

[@MEMcAndrews]

Consider epoxy instead of weld for the underside re-plates. Much better load distribution, and no HAZ from welding. Also… CMP (or Vincebar) is not only stealth, but is much better at removing RACP movement than the X-brace (which is not well-designed from a stiffness perspective. It’s two triangles attached at the center “thin area”. Definitely not engineered.

[@nhlanhlamcineka3693]

@@joshthebavarian do you drill the 13mm all the way through? Also what length and strength on bolt is used as replacement?

[@PatalJunior]

Recognized Chuki Beats music straight away. Good choice, not to loud and obnoxious.

[@frankfraga295]

Have my car in the air doing the same you just did just waiting for my CMP subframe bushings and the pure tech brace to come in. Great job

[@joshthebavarian]

Thanks Frank! Yeah that's going to be great. CMP does good work, and the Puretech bar is fantastic! feel free to pop back in if you had any future questions

[@BertusBuilds]

I feel your pain. I had to tackle the same on Jack stands on my e46. Great vid. 👍🏻

[@joshthebavarian]

Yes bro, you understand!! haha appreciate you my guy!

[@tigranes.]

On the floor jacks your a Champ Im gonna do mine this winter same on floor jacks.

[@gavindesborough927]

You should be making more content - you're a natural :)

[@joshthebavarian]

hah thanks gavin! Really appreciate that actually. I actually just uploaded one now. Cheers dude!

[@averyc7492]

Fml I have to do this. Glad to see another person do this on jackstands lol

[@That_Bimmer_Guy]

Have you seen the Vincebar which also adds to the rear axle carrier panel and sunbrame fix? I think it would add to the X-brace for the best protection.

[@russelltaylor3282]

Really good job! Thanks for showing how it should be done!

[@joshthebavarian]

Thanks Russell! Im glad that the community is actually gaining something from this video. Cheers dude thanks for dropping by!

[@briandeguzman6496]

Bro this video is epic. Love the intro. The pain is real with owning bmws and your comments made em funny. Thanks for sharing. I will tackle this job in our e46 and e36 in the near future.

[@joshthebavarian]

Hey thats awesome to hear man i appreacite it! Please feel free to pop back in with any questions you might have!

[@yamman93]

I put Dinan rtabs in and they tightened down the rear end without sacrificing comfort. I’m sure the turners will be just as good

[@joshthebavarian]

Nice dude good to hear! Dinan always does quality work, I had a few dinan goodies on my old E36. So far I’m really digging the Turner monoball rtabs. Rear feels nice and solid. See you around bro! 🙌

[@aerickvesereu1796]

You should have gotten the kit from Drift King. The company is based out of Hamburg, Germany. The Brace is one piece and stiffens the chassis considerably. I noticed the difference in stiffness right away.

[@joshthebavarian]

I’m sure it’s a great piece! but from what I saw it’s just a standard strut tower brace, not an X brace like this one. This one adds even more rigidity then a Normal brace like DK’s, because it gets bolted into the subframe as well as providing additional strut tower mounting points, on top of the standard mounting points. Thanks for the tip though, appreciate it either way. cheers!!

[@jinendow]

hahaha the drilling through the trunk part is hilarious

[@joshthebavarian]

lmaooo bro it felt soooo wrong xD

[@Qadi90]

hey thank you for this video. i purchased the same brace and will be installing it too. this will help me wrap my head around it. kudos to you for actually doing nearly everything by yourself. respect!!

[@joshthebavarian]

Hey dude , yeah! Glad you’re going to be able to put some value to this, please feel free to reach out if you had any questions during your install 🫡🤘

[@jamiemcevoy6730]

Hi, great video really enjoyed it from here in the UK 🇬🇧, one question did the puretech kit come with that hole saw or did you have to purchase this seperately? Thanks

[@beardefu3706]

great job with this!

[@joshthebavarian]

Hey thank you so much!! These cars really need this type of reinforcement done, such a shame what can happen if you don’t! Cheers! 💪

[@gg6k]

I was under the impression that most of the subframe repair kits require that you cut an access hole thru the trunk floor and weld in the bracket from the top side as well. There apparently is a dime sized hole that is filled with weld. I guess your kit is different.

[@joshthebavarian]

I believe you are correct, however if its the same top-side weld that im thinking of (in the trunk), th X brace essentially bypasses it. The hole I make for the bolt to pass through the subframe, through the floor pan in the trunk, and then into the x-brace, I believe negates that weld having to be done; since Im drilling through the metal and running a bolt. Which passes the stress and force directly through the subframe to the x-brace, not putting any strain on that piece of the trunk/floor any longer.

[@gg6k]

@@joshthebavarian ok got ya. I was thinking that all the subframe reinforcement braces utilized a trunk weld but I can see how the brace would eliminate the need for it.

[@Birdhouseboi810]

Tack daddy is more like it. Good thing he left all those fish eyes not filled so they’ll be prone to cracking.

[@randallross3036]

Great video!

[@Juke-Redlin]

Know this is old, but. How'd know? Any signs, sounds, or feel you noticed?

[@abr5819]

Nice you made it look easy/worth doing it yaself will see about mine I might just cough up the money for some 1 else to do it lol and at good price hopefully . Some people make it as out though it’s more complex ie the modify the front mounts too the ones under the rear seats ….

[@joshthebavarian]

hey whats up bro, yeah you know honestly its not a bad job. My local shop quoted me 4k, and so far I was only into it for about 500 - 600 doing it myself, for parts and the welding. Takes a bit of time but if you break it into smaller jobs its not bad. I think what you're referencing is the Vince bar modification, which is a great option, But i think the X - brace is better option since its a much easier procedure and in my eyes provides more rigidity then the v-bar.

[@abr5819]

Josh the Bavarian yeah Vince bar with the Vince plates epoxy/rivets version , too much rain/rust risk here in the U.K. for bottom side welding for me . possibly even a custom brace similar to an x brace but I do like Vince’s science . I’d be comfortable doing it myself if the cracks ain’t to bad and I’m riveting/epoxying compared to welding. i find welding obtrusive to the chassis but maybe I’m just misinformed , my car already has rusty arches that may need some light welding work .

[@PRAGEETHKARUNADHEERA]

That brace is only compatible with the coupe right? I have the convertible.

[@joshthebavarian]

Yeah I believe your right, its only for the coupes as the convertibles have the compartment for the soft top. I have seen versions that run a lower reinforcement, essentially without the X, that would be compatible with the convertibles.

[@destinationeuphoriaselfdev2089]

Excellent video bro 👌 💯

[@joshthebavarian]

Hell yeah brother, thank you! 🤙🤘

[@Scarlif3x]

Damn $200 bucks?! That’s not bad at all! Also what made you not wanna weld the whole plate around? I know some shops say is not necessary but others weld the whole thing?

[@joshthebavarian]

yeah man right?! This job is cake for an experianced welder as well, ive done it a few times and each time the welder will be in and out at right about an hour. I Usually offer them 100$ an hour, and then just round up to the nearest hour, hence the 200.. Also, the stitch welding is more than sufficient. ive always done it this way and the cars have always held up well. Theory behind it is heat management, you dont want to warp your mounting points, or burn through the sheet metal *its thin*. Stitch welds are an easy way to guarantee coverage and keep overall heat down. Ive also seen interiors catch fire from dudes who were just laying down continuous bead. Not fun!

[@Birdhouseboi810]

I would have actually welded it completely for $200. He did all the prep work.

[@gianniarduini3644]

You should weld all around humidity will get through where it’s not welded Will cause rust between chassis and plates . That’s what I was told when I got mine done welder welded every nook and crack of plates

[@OToffroad]

Bro that intro had me cracking up lol

[@joshthebavarian]

Subframe woes 😬😂🤘

[@SAVING_ICONIC_MACHINES]

Great video mate but try holding the ad in bits from movies it’s a bit annoying when you trying to enjoy the content on the car. It’s just my opinion mate so feel free to keep doing it if you want to.

[@HLinHD]

Dude, you’re doing like the exact same project as me haha. I think I’ve gotten all the exact same parts as you including the puretech brace except I went with bimmerworld lower camber arms cause they have sealed monoball bearings. Oh I also went with Vince front gusset cups to go with the xbrace and throwing on some kw v3 at the same time. Edit: wish you showed how you put everything back together. The fcp video they Jack the upper control arm to ride height and they torque that down before anything else. Is that what you did? What sequence of parts did you install? I see the subframe went in first, was it upper control arms, diff, axles/knuckles?

[@joshthebavarian]

Hey man thanks for dropping by! And word? Dude thats awesome! Good to know that another M is getting treated right. I hadnt realized the lower arms from BW had monoballs! I would have given them a second look for sure. The Vince addition is going to be the icing on the cake with the X brace. Cheers brew! & yeah great point! I probably should have noted that the rear arms (Upper spring arm and lower camber arm) need to be torqued with load on them. What I did made it easy, basically put the subframe on and torqued (rears I re tourqed w/ x-brace). Put the lower and upper arms on hand tight and put springs back in . Bolt Trailing arms up hand tight as well. Then to simulate load you can jack one side up slowly by the wheel hub / wheel, just enough to have the spring supporting the weight of the car, and it barely off the jack stand; then crawl back under and torque everything on that side. Youll notice the Diff + sway are still out, so youll have good access to everything. Then just repeat on the otherside, diff + driveshaft (remember CSB preload), then everything else as normal, finish X-brace. Feel free to pop back in w/ any questions!

[@bimmer46projects34]

Where can i buy that X brace ? Thanks.

[@joshthebavarian]

I actually purchased directly from Puretech on IG. Cheers dude!

[@leoescobar7141]

Would you be willing to sell the guide bolt?

[@joshthebavarian]

Im going to be keeping the bolt my dude, I do side jobs in my down time and its a pretty nifty piece of hardware to have! But its an M12x1.5, the center guide hole is 6mm. You might be able to get a machine shop to bore it for you, Cheers dude!

[@jalloor]

@@joshthebavarian does the guide bolt come with the xbrace?

[@joshthebavarian]

@@jalloor YEs sir! It comes with the Puretech X Brace. They also provide the drill bit and new hardware

[@taylorracingco]

😂😂😂😂weld daddy did some boo boo ass spot welds those are not for support them for looks

[@rondafasano8226]

p̾r̾o̾m̾o̾s̾m̾ ?

[@joshthebavarian]

??? 😅

[@e36fanatics]

dude that disk you were grinding with looked pathetic... takes 1 minute to fully clean with good wire brush and costs nothing.

[@joshthebavarian]

yes 100% agree that little disc I used was aids lmao, but it workled miles better then the wire wheel I DID have. The issue for me were the rear mounts, they have a thick coating of tar on them and they kept clogging the wire disc. The pads I had worked good, but I had to keep switching them as they gunked up. The front mounts only have paint on them, those were blasted out in like 30 sec. Cheers bro!

[@deplorabledave1048]

Take it from me...who has buddy who is blind in one eye due to NOT wearing safety glasses. WEAR safety glasses...at least when drilling up fucking side down. Cheeze. And SLIDES(Adidas?) when you work on your car??? Shoes and coveralls at a bare minimum. I am cringing, bro.

[@joshthebavarian]

OSHA would be HEATED if they saw this fr fr lol! Youre 100% right on the eyewear tho, Im usually stickler for it too, Not sure what happened there as I was wearing them earlier in the video! And bro YES! Its the worst habit, ive dropped a number of wrenches on my foot, so youd think i would have learned. lol!

[@user-fh3vu8dr9j]

preach this! I ALWAYS wear eye protection when under the vehicle, got lazy one day as it was hot and I sweat like a pig on my face, ended up catching a nice piece of thread right in the eye about 5 min after taking them off....painful af and I luckily didn't do major damage, but had to have it pulled out. Not fun, so easy to avoid and ALWAYS make sure they make contact with your face ie side and top protection, not just frames with lenses