BMW F2x F3x Springs and Shocks Installation (RWD & xDrive)

[@BilboeSwaggins]

Best tutorial I found. Took me 10 hours because of missing tools, broken bits, and just random things lol. If I did it again it would probably take me about 3.5-4 hours.

[@IggyBam]

There's a reason this video is used as reference on so many forums - this gave me the confidence to do this job myself and I'm glad I did! Rear suspension fitted today, front tomorrow! Thank you for making this video, I'm sure it took you a lot longer to do the job whilst getting all the video shots 👍

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on doing it yourself! Enabling others is exactly why I make these.

[@IggyBam]

@@FaRKle0079 follow up - just got finished on the fronts. Took me the best part of 4 hours... But its done. A couple of points for others - buy some decent spring compressors, trying it with cheap ones took a while and felt sketchy. Also, the counter holding whilst using the torque wrench wasn't necessary for me once you tighten it enough with a ratchet, made it easier and didn't have to use crows foot and open socket. Also note that if you installed bilsteins, the new nut on the top of the front damper will be 19mm instead of 18mm on the video, so don't buy a 18mm open sided socket like me.. Thanks!

[@FaRKle0079]

@@IggyBam Congrats!

[@GeeQ93]

@@FaRKle0079 appreciate your guidance, i will change my oem edc front shocks to oe bilstein b4 edc shocks in one week on my f36 due to leaking. I am not changing shocks first time but on bmw first time. Really helpful to see all specs and tricky points and the tools that i need to add my inventory would i need for the job. I wonder would i need to take the headlight leveling sensor if i use your method please? My car is rwd, thanks.

[@sehla4]

Very good and informative video. I benefited from it when I was going to do the same job. .... but, I see in this video, like many others the tip to use an impact gun to remove and install end links. As a former car mechanic and today an aviation technician, I get shivers when I hear it again and again. These joints are not designed to spin. They will not fall apart, but their service life will be shortened. The method you use (removing front end link) on your M2 is the one referred to by the manufacturers. Felt I wanted to write it to you as you seem to be serious about doing the right thing in your videos. Keep up the good work 👍.

[@dmshopper6952]

This is one of the best DIY BMW tutorials I've seen in years. Very informative and your method of swapping the struts on X drive is so much better! Thanks a lot!

[@squarebamboo]

Thanks for this video! By far, this is the most detailed instructions I can find on youtube! I followed your steps to replace bilstein b6 struts and shocks on my 2015 435i xDrive Gran Coupe. However, I want to point out 2 things: 1. Your xDrive way does not work for me, I have to go with BMW way, my rotor simply won't drop from the strut. 2. I bought the crow foot tool, but later found out it does not fit the pass through socket. I was quite frustrated as I can't torque to spec. Then I later found out, you can just use through socket and center hold to get it tight enough, then with tension on the thread, you can use normal socket and torque wrench and torque it to spec without center hold. No crow foot needed. I hope this helps someone!

[@12jfern]

Broooo, I was just wondering how to do this and if that would work! Thanks!

[@milt1916]

2017 440i Gran Coupe RWD here. Got the strut off the steering knuckle with foot pressure, but couldn't get it to drop low enough when putting the new strut (Bilstein B6 Damptronic) in. Also didn't have enough room to rotate the strut and knuckle in through the fender opening. Finally disconnected the ball joint on the LCA and that let the steering knuckle drop enough. I do have the F8x control arms installed, so maybe that makes a difference.

[@bungl3971]

so glad you included your method which circumvents removal of the axle bolts! I just did the thrust arms with monoball upgrade on my f31 xdrive and noticed my front shocks leaking a bit, now I can procure parts without getting yet another set of those bolts! haha

[@ericbiggins1645]

Fantastic walk through…thank you! I used the video to install Eibach’s and Koni Yellows this past weekend and this video was a HUGE help. Also, the tool list was awesome to prepare ahead of time for someone who is not a mechanic with limited tools.

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on the new setup! Try starting those Konis at full soft and slowly raising the rebound damping from there. You probably wont have to go too far from soft to find the optimal point.

[@black71cuda]

Wow, great tutorial, Andrew!

[@davidmiller4566]

Hi from across the pond. Great video! I’d already installed B16s on my F30 (wish I’d used this tutorial when I did it🙄) anyway, it’s such a transformation over standard. I used it this time as I needed new top mounts and needed reminding of the steps! Your videos are so good, I know this is old and you’ve probably upgraded since but even so, keep up the great work. Recently replaced my sway bar using your video too 👍👍 Cheers uk Dave

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks Dave! Glad the content is still helpful!

[@kevinrtres]

Thank you very much. This is the best video on the topic I've come across so far!!! Also applies specifically to my own car. Once again - thanks a lot!

[@none8258]

Never knew crow's feet needed to be at 90°. Thanks for that!

[@DJAdo80]

Thank you so much for this video! I was able to tackle replacing my front struts on my ‘13 F30 335i rwd. I have the electronic dampers so I had to remove the wheel wheel plastic covers to replace the old connection to strut with new ones from Bilsteins. Easy peezy!

[@DJAdo80]

‘Wheel wells’, not wheel wheels :)

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats! Glad it helped.

[@milt1916]

Hmm. I was wondering why the adapter cables were so long, and how to secure them. On my car, the stock cables would be long enough to work, and I don't understand why Bilstein wouldn't just supply a short adapter cable to connect the stock cable to the strut.

[@carlalan1880]

thanks the best one i have watched and i have watched a few now after watching this i feel i can do it myself thanks

[@Onizukachan915]

Thanks much, was about to disassemble much more than I needed to when installing the front Street Comforts in the f31 tonight. Used your method but since I had new lemforder mounts for the KW, it really was as easy as loosen top mounts remove pinch bolt and sway bar link, then vibrate the knuckle off the strut, then tilt out at bottom to remove. For future viewers note, 3 bolt strut mounts use a larger bolt than featured here 15mm iirc, but the lemforder 3 bolt replacements from ECS use the same smaller shanked bolts the 5 bolts do. Luckily I bought the complete set with gaskets bolts etc. suggest you do the same!

[@lifebehindbars8750]

Wow! Excellent and detailed tutorial. This has given me the confidence that I could fit these to my M140i rather than pay a garage. Brilliant work, thanks 👌

[@kh1487]

FYI, I used 5/8" spark plug instead of the the 16mm pass though socket for the sway bar link end nut removal. and it is perfect for using crowfoot socket to tight up torque.

[@kjb8321]

Brilliant tutorial, so much detail! Thanks for sharing

[@FaRKle0079]

"kpgray" on the F30 Bimmerpost forums kindly made the below checklist of items needed to do the job in this video. Wow, great job to him! Sockets: □ 1/2" and 3/8" Ratchet/s □ 1/2" Breaker Bar/s □ 1/2" and 3/8" Extensions □ 8 MM Standard 5-Bolt Shock Tower □ 10 MM Standard 3-Bolt Shock Tower / Front Plastic Cover Cam Studs □ 13 MM Standard Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 16 MM-Pass Through Rod Ends / Rear Upper Shock Nut □ 17 MM Wheel Studs □ 18 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt □ 18 MM Pass Through Shock Mount Strut / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Nut / Bolt Combination Ratcheting Wrenches: □ 13 MM Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Knuckle Bolt or Nut (Could be either) □ 3/4" For Pass Through Sockets (set dependent) Torx Center-hold: □ T30 Long, Rod End (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) E-Torx Socket: □ E12 Rear Upper Shock Bolts □ E18 Front Strut Brace Stud / Rear Camber Arm Bolt □ E20 Rear Arm Nut (Could be either OR 20 MM / 21 MM) Hex Allen Wrench: □ 5 MM, can be socket, Rear Shock Upper Mount (with 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) □ 6 MM, can be socket, Front Shock Mount Strut (with 18 MM Pass Through Socket above) Special Tools: □ Outside Spring Compressor □ 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrench/s for ranges 10-150 lbs □ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC Tuning # 2652181) □ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets ( 19mm or 3/4" optional due to your personal tools usage) □ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal □ 17 MM Male Hex Socket for xDrive Front Axel Wheel Nut (if removing BMW way)* *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: ECS # 2859492) □ Pick Tool for removal of BMW Wheel Center Cap (if removing 17 MM Front Axle Wheel Nut, the BMW way) □ Pry Tool for xDrive Headlight Leveling Sensor □ Floor Jack □ Jack Stands Front Torques: 32.5 lbs. 16MM Rod End 41.5 lbs. 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle 47 lbs. 18 MM Shock Damper 5-Bolt Shock Tower = 22 lbs. (8 MM) 3-Bolt Shock Tower = 41.5 lbs. (10 MM) 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts Rear Torques: 122 lbs. Camber Arm 75 lbs. Shock Bolt 28 lbs. Top Shock Mount (16 MM) 20.65 lbs. E12 Upper Shock Mount 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts NOTES: *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: **ECS # 2859492) ** Special Note: ESC Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/

[@TrackandBuild]

The front strut clamp knuckle torque should be 32 ft lbs as indicated in the video plus 90 degree turn

[@FaRKle0079]

@@TrackandBuild Yup, but you only want to do the +90deg if using a new bolt, otherwise you'll have "double stretched" a used one.

[@gionet1234]

This video is gold, no other way to put it. Thank you!

[@ScottPC]

Did today on my M140i. Great tutorial. One thing I’d recommend people do is get a impact gun (400nm did me).

[@uzeyourillusion]

Perfectly described and demonstrated 👌

[@AndyfromSurrey]

Thank you for making this video. I watched it a few times and then changed all the suspension on my M140i on my driveway. Seeing the tools I would need was dead handy too.

[@the_romantik7932]

Very Nice video 👍👍👍

[@christophera1244]

Guys there is a good reason to get the nicer spring compressor.. trust me. I’m in the process of wrestling with the cheap one and its burning hours and a total pain

[@derekkchung]

10:50 The cheap compressor really could not work. The one u are using barely work when the strut + thread is not short. The coil has only 2-3 "rounds", giving no place to mount the compressor paws, or not much compression possible. It is not easy with this 2-3 round coil.... Just FYI. I was struggling with this.

[@dorianblach587]

Great job. Much appreciated.

[@redman4419]

Pro detail explain 👍🏽👍🏽👌🏽

[@Hubscharber]

Wonderful video! I found my front left adaptive damper leaking, so was not looking forward to parts + labor from a garage on this one; will do it myself! One thing I noticed, TIS recommends replacing the hardware and doing the torque values like you mentioned + 90* - any reason to reuse old components?

[@FaRKle0079]

If you're only going to do this once, it's not much to replace a lot of the fasteners. If you constantly tinker, and play with adjustments, then that adds a decent amount of cost and logistics making sure you have a whole set every time you want to go in there.

[@goatirex]

Top merci , je me posais quelques questions pour le remplacement des ressorts courts sur mon Xdrive , me voila rassuré ! merci

[@phillroslasky9898]

Dude, thank you. I actually feel like I can do this instead of paying the stealership $3600 to do JUST my fronts. Thank you for your detailed video and explaining your "preferred" way vs the "bmw" way, it looks a lot easier than I'd actually thought it was!!

[@CatalinIonut98]

Man I wish I saw this video before I did my rear shocks. I managed to strip both hex’s and it was an ordeal to torque them. I didn’t mangă to reach 38Nm but it think it should be fine as they are locking nuts.

[@FaRKle0079]

Luckily the rears don't really need to be at full torque spec, and if you used nylock type locking nuts, those actually use a lower torque spec (stated in the damper mfg's instructions).

[@CatalinIonut98]

@@FaRKle0079unfortunately I did not had the nylon lock nut and I've used new oem style. Although I don't think they would back up either. As they are also locking nuts. Last 2-3 threads are deformed intentionally .

[@groef400]

Thank you for the video! Very detailed. I have a question though. How far does the new front strut go into the knuckle? It looks to me you can push it as far as you want in the knuckle? There is no stop for it?

[@flyro2000]

Great video mate! Going to be putting Bilstein's on my M135i soon :)

[@Jacknewzero]

The best repair video i've ever seen. Thumbs up!!!

[@brakthru2]

This video was very helpful. The only problem i had was torquing to spec the shock mount to the shock without a pass through torque wrench. I had to wing it. Thank you

[@penguin350]

This is amazing, I was really struggling to get the rear camber bolts off though and ended up giving up. Might give it another go with some penetrating oil to see if that loosens them. Also noticed I had some slightly different bolts on my euro F30 328.

[@rickylopez5977]

Excellent video. Best described and demonstrated video by far. Look forward to viewing your tutorials!

[@kokotadack]

Thanks for the great tutorial... Saves a lot of time and avoids extra work with the half shaft!

[@FaRKle0079]

Yup, and you don't have to stress about getting a new collar bolt, or worrying you didn't mate your axle to hub properly either!

[@hellothere9262]

Great video! Can you answer a question for me? Did you replace all the nuts and bolts you used or just re use the ones that were on there? Replacing mine soon and I'll definitely be revisiting your video during the install. Thanks so much for such an awesome and detailed video, it's very much appreciated!

[@FaRKle0079]

I reused all of the nuts/bolts. BMW would like you to use new ones for some of them, but that's unnecessary. Just make sure you only tighten them to their fastening torque spec and not torque to yield spec (typically fastening torque +90deg).

[@hellothere9262]

@@FaRKle0079 Great, thanks for the reply and the great video. It's helped immensely in figuring out the tools and I'm sure it'll be even more helpful when I do the install.

[@karmaseesall]

one of the most valuable pieces of info in here. thank you!

[@NeoxX317]

Fantastic!!! Thank you so much !! I am still hesitating doing the B6 installation myself on my F20.. Also i have been told to buy new bump stoppers at the front and rear + shock absorber bellows (to prevent dust - whatever you call it - im french haha). What do you guys think ? I cant just use the old ones ? Plus this video says we dont need bump stoppers for front absorber as its integrated in the damper.

[@RIFF0RAFF]

Thank you! You made an excelent tutorial. Really came in handy for me during installing B6 on M140i XDrive.

[@opmike343]

These videos NEVER mention it, but when working on suspension components, keep a can of PB Blaster handy and soak everything you can the day before in penetrating oil. It'll make disassembly an order of magnitude easier, especially if you live in the rust belt.

[@_0O0O0O0_]

Fuckin' perfection

[@stevedixon8457]

Excellent video! A great help when swapping the springs on my F21 M140i. Many thanks from the UK 🙂

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@kevinrtres]

Mmmmhhhh, so the DIY person has to be sure to lift the car high enough to allow the knuckle assembly to drop down far enough to release the strut. Not an easy thing to do with jack and jack-stands....just a thought.....from someone who is contemplating doing this. Please let me know if I'm mistaken. Thanks.

[@sammynice6253]

Awesome tutorial... Thank You :)

[@freisingBoy]

Glad I found your tutorial, great work! Having trouble finding a 18mm 'Difficult Access' socket. Common sizes are 17mm or 19mm, but no 18mm.

[@rosspayne8221]

Invaluable walk through thanks. Nice step by step method with a calm delivery, very nice. I’m off for a drive 😅

[@joshuaquinton6010]

Would the car throw any codes or faults if the new Bilsteins do not have EDC? I am new to BMW’s and I’m having a difficult time finding the proper replacement struts for my RWD 435i. I would prefer to purchase struts without EDC since they’re more readily available, but I’m afraid to run into larger problems. Amazing Tutorial!

[@FaRKle0079]

Yes, unfortunately you'll get errors if you disconnect your EDC dampers. That said it's possible to program/code the EDC system off in your car to allow you to run regular non-EDC dampers just fine. This is what I did for my car and I offer that service (can be done remotely as long as you have a windows laptop with ethernet port and an obd2 to ethernet cable).

[@TonyMeier]

Awesome explanation! Very thorough and well thought out!!

[@scottycuk]

if RWD would you suggest doing it your way rather than pull the knuckle and stut down together?

[@davemackie188]

Great tutorial! I'll be changing my struts in a few weeks and this is super helpful.

[@aloco62]

Thank you so much for this video. Great information and details.🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@nullpointer1984]

I love how are proper and even torquing the swaybar endlink :) I also try to torque everything correctly, really easy to get the correct information for BMWs

[@richardbutterworth1216]

Great work! Which bilstein shocks and springs are these? Cheers

[@sethmoreadith6619]

Love the video! Just ordered b8 shocks and H & R springs will definitely be using this when I go to install them. Will adjustable/aftermarket end links be needed for the setup I ordered? If so do you have any recommendations and what length? Thanks!

[@FaRKle0079]

You won't "need" adjustable end links, but they're nice to have. I like the KC Design ones I have, but I'd say more importantly is to look for ones with boots over the ball joints if you drive the car in dirty/wet conditions.

[@Oranga1086]

Awesome tutorial! One question, why is it okay to torque the rear bolts while the car is in the air, but not the fronts?

[@FaRKle0079]

The only things that need to get torqued "at ride height" are connections involving rubber bushings. In the front nothing being taken apart is a rubber bushing. In the rear though the lower damper to camber arm mount is a rubber bushing.

[@armandosalinas658]

Thank you for this great detailed video, it’s much appreciated! 👍

[@dutzuxx]

You dont have the losen the front control arm in order to remove the strut?

[@FaRKle0079]

Nope!

[@YSCDIY]

Nice video, I have a question about the 18mm pass-through with 6mm counterhold. I saw my mechanic installed my new strut and coil spring without the 6mm counterhold. He just use a socket wrench to tie up the strut and mount. Does that cause strut and mount tie-up not properly? Thank you for your answer.

[@FaRKle0079]

If he was able to hold the strut shaft securely some other way, he might not have needed the 6mm hex counter hold.

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

DUDE -- THANKS for everything. Your vid saved me a lot of agony doing my rear shocks today. Being prepared helped immensely!

[@FaRKle0079]

Congrats on getting your new shocks in!

[@Glen-yu1qe]

Thx for this tutorial. Yesterday I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein B6. Peace of cake with this video! Also very handy with those torque specs.

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad it helped you! Enjoy your new dampers!

[@oksymoroni]

Thanks Farkle!!! Just got done installing Koni Yellows with Eibach springs on my 340i. Your video was the best I've found and it helped tremendously.

[@FaRKle0079]

Glad it helped!

[@dsslimone]

Superb video I need to replace the suspension boots/ gaiters. So this in invaluable to me. 😊

[@dsslimone]

I'm thinking of changing renewing the shock absorbers and springs after having a look at them since I'll have everything off to do the boots. I have recently fitted a towbar to tow a caravan possibly once every 5 weeks. Do I have to upgrade springs on the rear. Not really wanting to lower the car want like for like springs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@youliangyi3346]

Thank you for this, it is very detailed. I want to upgrade my suspension, i've got 2017 340i, i knew the damper is the issue, but EDC makes upgrade option very limited. I probably will go BILSTEIN B6 Dampertonic, should I go Spring first? I want ACS springs. But I do want to keep the standard ride height.I am so confused. Please share some experience with me. I saw you did a lot of F30 suspension upgrades.

[@FaRKle0079]

For coilovers you can go to non EDC versions. You'll either have to use a EDC delete/blank off kit, or disconnect the EDC module in the trunk and code out EDC from the car. If you want to go to stiffer springs but don't want to lower the height you'll have to look at getting springs from other models, like F8x, F33, or F34. Some of those springs should allow you to maintain your current height but be stiffer. You'll need to find someone with the special knowledge of those spring rates and lengths though.

[@youliangyi3346]

@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for the advise, I will ask few local shop see if they can coding my BMW, i am in Australia. If i can non EDC suspension,option will be a lot more to choose from. Yeah I probably should look for those springs if I really want to keep the ride height.

[@ericduran3855]

Legend

[@tonyl350]

@FaRkLe0079 great DIY video. noticed in beginning you had edc. i would like to ask, did the your new strut/ shocks come with edc plug in location?

[@FaRKle0079]

I coded EDC out and disconnected the module. My Fat Cat Motorsports suspension setup is passive. I don't miss EDC.

[@ivanivanusic]

Hey, I also have 18mm for shock to rear camber bolt like you, but on all F2x/F3x real oem, it says it’s e-torx? I can’t find 18mm hex on realoem for any car F2x/F3x

[@FaRKle0079]

BMW will use whatever bolt head type they have in stock that day, so it could be 6pt or E-Torx for some of the bolts. The main thing that matters is the thread size, length, and grade, and those will be common between the two head types.

[@jamesssss621]

New to bimmers and bought some Vogtland springs for my 17 x3. Does f2x mean this tutorial applies to my f25?

[@FaRKle0079]

It was meant for the F2x/F3x cars, not SUVs unfortunately. That said, the F25 suspension layout is super similar to the cars'. IIRC the rear spring is a coil over though.

[@dopiaza2006]

A full aligment is essential afterwards too

[@GothemCity]

Are the strut mount M8 bolts reusable? I read they are non-reusable because they stretch when tightened and do not provide the same clamping force once untightened.

[@FaRKle0079]

Yeah you can re-use those, just don't add the additional 90deg angle after the fastening torque.

[@ensot92]

What happens if you install the spring upside down respect the label?

[@jonarchdeacon3761]

Perfect level of detail and explanation

[@alexguajardo8352]

Great video! I have a 2013 BMW X5 xdrive 35i with active suspension system. Can I replace the struts with ones with no active suspension? Thanks for your help!

[@FaRKle0079]

You can replace your front dampers with non EDC ones, but you'll need to replace the rear dampers with non-EDC ones too. Then you'll need to either code out EDC from the car (so the car doesn't think it has that option) or use dummy terminators for the cables so the car thinks it still has EDC dampers.

[@alexguajardo8352]

@@FaRKle0079 thanks for the information! I appreciate it!

[@tteitei]

Thank you for the tutorial. It was very thorough and helped me replace the bump stops in the rear dampers.

[@billchurch1296]

I've managed to remove and torque the sway bar/droplink without using a counterhold..am I missing something?

[@FaRKle0079]

You got lucky! It means the ball joint in the ends of the sway bar are tighter than others.

[@billchurch1296]

@FaRKle0079 thanks for the reply mate, just making sure I hand missed something, your video is fantastic by the way, I was just unsure as I managed to get them off and back on and torqued without using a counterhold! Cheers!

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

Awesome vid -- Question though: At 24:39 -- That was a locknut and you used a new one? Do you know where I can order a new replacement? I didn't see a link in the description. Thanks!!!

[@FaRKle0079]

The PN for that lock nut is 07119907135. You don't really have to use a new one (it's a nice to have).

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

@@FaRKle0079 -- Awesome; thanks!

[@raldyjimenez3319]

Hi just want to ask for your feedback on the ride experience with your Bilstein B6 if you don’t mind. I am thinking of upgrading to Bilstein B6 Damptronic for my 2018 F36 xDrive and not sure if this upgrade would totally compromise the ride quality. Thank in advance and hoping for your feedback

[@VVH1997]

thank you very much for doing this

[@orinoko77]

Very useful video! there are two things I'd like to add counterholds should not be spun, spin the nuts. 2nd some of the bolts need to be torqued but also adder 90° of rotation. You got all the torques right bit not mention about the degrees... on newtis you can look that up.

[@levinichita8406]

The front shock absorber are both side?

[@FaRKle0079]

For RWD vehicles, yes. They use two "left" front struts, unless optioned with EDC.

[@beekone28]

thank you for the good tutorial. I am much better prepared to start this job myself.

[@marianosusuki9849]

Thanks for your thorough tutorial.

[@Bad-Alias]

thank you for this how to guide

[@Guzzlerm3]

Hello my friend hey I was helping my buddy to install this shocks on he's 20 m2c everything fit until we when to reinstall the swaybar link they didt line up with the shock look like the ear on the shock was to far up so the link was to short even with the shock not compress any idea on what we missed

[@jferrer9157]

Would you share where you got torque specs from? Im working in an f25 and cant find torque specs anywhere.

[@zanderlukas1248]

Hey, thanks for the tips this DIY video is great. Would you happen to know if the F34 GT is the same?

[@brakthru2]

The only thing I did was put on new rear bump stops. The old ones were falling apart. This was on a F22 M240i. I'm on stock suspension. I noticed the rear end is stiff now all the time just driving normal around town. The car feels more level or stable in the rear but I feel the bumps more. Aggressive cornering feels more like oversteer now but still corners almost as fast as before. Do you think they will soften up over time? The bump stops are about 2.75in-3in long. Probably not much shock travel? With the shock out and fully compressing it, it took a while for it to fully extend. Car is EDC with 74k miles. Any ideas? Thanks.

[@FaRKle0079]

Yeah, it sounds like you don't have much free shock travel. Since the dampers are typically rebound biased it generally takes them longer to extend after compression. You can try shortening the bump stops but cutting off a bit of material from the upper side with a serrated knife. You can do that without having to remove the shock.

[@brakthru2]

@FaRKle0079 You're spot on. I measured the old bump stops, and they we're 2.25in long when i compressed them in my hand. They lost .75in due missing material. The new stops are 3 inches and are only 1/ 8 in from the shock body with no one in the car. It makes sense now why the car has a weird artificial like ride and bounce over certain road surfaces. The car literally rides the bump stops in stock form. I decided to check the front stops too. The originals are still in great shape on the car. Same deal. The bump stops sits about 1/8in from the strut. The front needs it due to a small sway bar. Front stock springs are good at 217 lb/in, according to Dinan. Rear springs are 526 lb/in. I went ahead and ordered the M2/M3/M4 rear bumps stops. They are 2.5in, which will shave .5 in. I also ordered E60 bump stops, which are 2.25in. The same as my worn stops. I'll try both. Either way, the car will feel better, corner faster, and have more traction again. It seems BMW owners are starting to find this out. At least BMW gave the M2 a little more clearance for damper travel front and rear since the car has a stiffer stock suspension.

[@brakthru2]

It makes me wonder if riding the stops wears out the dampers sooner?

[@FaRKle0079]

@@brakthru2 I don't think it should wear the dampers faster. I also shortened the bump stops on my M2 and it made a nice difference for medium bumps and larger.

[@brakthru2]

@@FaRKle0079 it doesn't sound like what I said surprised you. How much clearance did the M2 factory setup have with bumpstops? Your car may not have used the bumpstops as much as mine. It probably still helped your cornering speeds.

thanks bro, great guide.

[@richardb2382]

Did you have to code out the adaptive suspension. My F31 rwd front left is leaking, and am considering getting rid of adaptive, going to aftermarket.

[@FaRKle0079]

You can either use a dummy plug delete kit or code it out. I coded mine out.

[@johanmartin9075]

Thanks for this video

[@adebamboallinson5110]

Hi, please I have a question. I have a xdrive model. If I was doing it not the bmw way then I don’t have to remove the collar bolt or the headlight levelling right ?

[@FaRKle0079]

The "BMW way" is more difficult and requires you to remove the collar bolt and detach the headlight leveling arm. My way only requires you to detach the headlight leveling arm.

[@adebamboallinson5110]

@@FaRKle0079 thank you. I thought your method required removing the collar bolt but I understand now. I shall attempt this with confidence.

[@krzysztof5776]

This is just fabulous

[@MykhailoLopandia]

64 Nm torque should be applied to top nut when spring is compressed, isn't it?

[@mrwriter86]

@23:50 you say to be careful with the hex as it’s easy to strip apart. I’m at that stage and unfortunately that’s exactly what’s happened to me. I’m stuck at this point, do you have any advice on how I might be able to remove the nut from here? Thank you!

[@FaRKle0079]

Oh no! I would try using a pair of vice grips (or a bench vise) to hold the damper shaft below the top mount (where the bump stop typically covers. You can wrap the shaft in rubber/bicycle inner tube if you're worried about scratching the chrome finish on it. If you can't get it off with a hand tool that way, you can try an impact, and use short bursts.

[@mrwriter86]

@@FaRKle0079hanks so much for your reply and advice, I really appreciate it. I had to give up on the old shocks in the end. I ordered two new top mounts and managed to complete the spring and shock replacement on both rear sides following your guide. Car feels like it’s just rolled out the factory again. Your video gave me everything I needed to know, and even helping me out with your reply above has been valuable. Thanks for all the time and effort you’ve put in, you’ve absolutely helped me out!! All the best.

[@FaRKle0079]

@@mrwriter86 Glad you got it sorted in the end and are happy!

[@tonyplatano1850]

Great tutorial - very detailed, and lots of helpful tips!

[@chaoxue9028]

Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing~ Is the suspension set in the video M performance spring + bilstein b6? According to your theory, bilstein b6 is so overdamped for stock springs or even eibach pro kit springs for f3x platform, so will the bilstein B6/B8 still overdamped if paired with M performance springs? I am considering this spring shock combo recently😁

[@KingRoyalTV]

Great video! Very informative!

[@jl2622]

❤ thank you

[@223Sako]

Outstanding video. Well done for getting so much detail in there.

[@FaRKle0079]

Thanks!