BMW K1200S Clutch & Gearbox replacement - PART 3

This video is about BMW K1200S Clutch & Gearbox replacement - PART 3

[@edwinderegt6715]

Done this job myself at least 4 times. Nice how you did take the effort to documentate it. I wonder how you did solve to get the drive shaft back in the gearbox. 1st Time I realy did struggle to get the end part it liftet in the driveshaft-tunnel. Also, I do not know if you mentioned, the bolds of right site engine cover are 1-time use only. And be aware to check the lenght of those, they are not all the same! The one 'above' chain guide is shorter for sure! Then there is also a special order to tight up this bolts. And last tip for vieuwers, make sure no wires are traped when placing back the gearbox. I ruind wires of my ABS sensor at 1 time. It is hard to see, so dubbel check before boulting it tight.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Very good points Edwin. Thanks for watching, and particularly for taking the time to point out these important aspects. I have pinned your comments so they will show at the top of the comments section for others to see more easily. Stay safe, have fun and thanks again for taking the time to share your experience.

[@dronepilot260rc]

Thank you so much for your time and effort!

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment I really appreciate it. Ride safe, have fun mate.👍

[@tomasroeder6091]

Love the shop shoes! Great Video!

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Hi Tomas, thanks for checking out my videos, and I appreciate the comment. Yeah, I’m all about comfort, followed by safety…. 😜 Have a fantastic week mate. 🏍👍🇦🇺

[@marcospalla7257]

Bravo grazie mi hai aiutato molto 💪💪💪👏👏👏

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment, I really appreciate it. grazie per la visione e il tempo dedicato a commentare. Lo apprezzo molto. stai al sicuro, divertiti. Regards Nuffy ( Paul )

[@justincarney1250]

Hello I have watched several videos on the clutch replacementand at a lose on how the six allan key bolts that hold the pressue spring in place can be torqued , if they are set fully home and torqued to 8nm the this has basically engaged the clutch it has compressed the spring down the same way the slave cylinder does , the spring must be able to move in and out as the slave cylinder pushes against it , tightening these bolts all the way home does not allow it to operate , there must be either an physical measurement between the basket and the spring plate or some other way to determine corect spring pressure . As I can not get the bolts to 8 nm against the spring pressure alone , Any insights would be helpful , many thnks

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Hi Justin I think it may possibly be either: The first clutch plate you put on MUST be the one that has a larger centre diameter so it does not cover the small spring washer. The other thing may be that the total thickness of the clutch plates exceeds the recommended maximum tolerance. I really hope it is as simple as one of those two things. Please let me know how you get on and I will keep thinking about your question and let you know if I think of something else. Cheers Paul ( Nuffy)

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

What I am talking about is most clearly explained at 1:10.15 in the video.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Sorry i start explaining it at 40:53 😀

[@DarioAmedeoMartino]

Great video! Thank you to share it with us! Only a question: why you have not repaired the original gearbox ? Maybe the used K1300 gearbox was less expensive of brand new spare parts ? Best regards from Italy! 😊

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Hello, Thank you for watching and for taking the time to comment, I really appreciate it. Part of the reason was due to the cost and also at the time during Covid, it was difficult and slow to get the new parts. Also, the 1300s gearbox has squarer dogs. These are the parts between the gears that help change between gears. This was a significant improvement from the 1200s gearbox as one of the issues with the 1200s gearbox is it sometimes would jump out of gear as these parts wore. Have fun, be safe and a big hello from Australia. 👍

[@edwinderegt6715]

Used K1300 have same problems. I had a brand new one... Also they hard to find.

[@user-mh2ys8gn4d]

Why not show the actual clutch install?

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Massive oversight my friend!!!! Sorry about that. You are the first to mention it. I have no idea why I didn’t show that part except perhaps I was just too excited about getting it on the road and riding. Sorry mate, not intentional.

[@robplazzman6049]

The two anti judder washers that went in first. Any idea when I can get hold of them. My 1200r sport doesn’t have them as standard. I’ve fitted Barnett plates and the first plate is cut down so they can be fitted. The judder on pulling away is a real downer !

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Hi, not sure where to get these but I may still have them from my original clutch pack. Where in the world are you?

[@robplazzman6049]

@@nuffysbuilds3750 In the U.K. but happy to pay postage as they are rare. Guessing you’re in Australia or nearby.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

@@robplazzman6049 Hi Rob, I will have a look this week and see what I can find mate.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

@@robplazzman6049 yes, Australia

[@robplazzman6049]

@@nuffysbuilds3750 👍🏻

[@HappyDad46]

Hi, The 6 bolts that hold the thrust plate in at 19 mins, are they tightened all the way, or do you just thread them in enough that the force from the plate holds them in place along with the thread lock? I have recently done the same rebuild on my bike and I have tightened them to the max so it's bending the thrust plate inwards slightly, but now my bike can't select neutral. I think I have overdone it and not given the plates enough room to move apart. Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks!

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Hi Thomas, My understanding is they go all the way in as you have done. My immediate thought is that your clutch pack is thicker than the recommended maximum. See if you can find the recommended thickness of the fibre plates and metal plates. The next thing I am thinking, is if you have the angled washer at the back that reduces the friction (thin conical washer) Have you rotated the last fibre plate one step Have you checked your clutch oil level to make sure you are getting full pressure I will watch the video again myself and see if I can think of anything else. Happy to help you work through this. Keep me posted on how you go. Where are you in the world? I’m in Australia. Cheers Nuffy (Paul)

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

One of the fibre clutch plates has a slightly larger inner diameter. This needs to be the first plate that goes on, it should allow the thin conical spring washer to sit inside. If you don’t have this correct then the first fibre plate will be sitting on top of the washer

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Try tightening the bolts to 8nm, it should hold the large conical washer firmly but should not deform it.

[@spectroplasm]

I have a K1200R and my clutch does not have those two washers in it as seen @3:45 in the video, are those only to K1200S models only? I'm a bit lost as my clutch has started to slip last week and I've ordered new clutch plates and left the bike alone until the clutch plates arrive.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Hi, I don’t have the answer sorry. I would suggest that you try measuring the new clutch plates when they are stacked together and also measure the old clutch plates when they are stacked together first. Try and find out what they should measure before you change them. A common issue can be the hydraulic slave cylinder. The oil gets dirty and they do need to be cleaned out and hydraulic fluid changed….. Do not use brake fluid. I believe the two washers / spring washer I mentioned in mine were a change that was made to help with the issue of the clutch plates sticking together which I think was mainly due to the poor oil flow through the clutch plates. Take your time, take lots of photos as you go and please let me know how you get on. All the best mate. Cheers Nuffy

[@edwinderegt6715]

That washer is a modification to un-stuck the 1st plate. This supose to cancel the hard clunk when shifting from neutral to 1st gear. Mine hase it, does now work, lol.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

@@edwinderegt6715 Hi Edwin, yes you are correct…🤣🤣🤣 Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Next time you are riding, try lifting the gear lever slightly before you pull the clutch and shift gear. I think you will notice a smoother gear change. 👍👍

[@AnalogDude_]

Next year 100 Years BMW Motorrad, so they have a bit of experience.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Thanks for watching, and I appreciate you leaving a comment.

[@gentlemansbusa2985]

I'm stuck I'm on a 2010 k1300s which is essentially the same clutch. I just replaced the plates and put the pack back in and now it seems like my pushrod and throw out bearing aren't sinking in enough the slave cylinder hits em at about 80% inserted.. XD help?

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

Did the first fibre plate you put on have a slightly larger internal diameter so it sits outside of the very thin conical washer?

[@edwinderegt6715]

The central piece on slave cilinder needs to flat, not round. Did you check? It can invert.

[@nuffysbuilds3750]

@edwinderegt6715 I was very careful to put back together the same as when I took it apart and checking with the manual. It was much better to ride after the repairs. I sold this bike last October and I have been building a couple of new projects. Soon I will buy a KTM 1290s for adventure riding. 👍🏻