Boat Electrical Wiring Made Easy, Part 2, Switch Panel Wiring, Cabin Light Wiring - Complete Guide

[@bethanybertelsen5608]

I’m working on a project 22 foot sailboat. I’ve stripped all the old wiring in it and you made it easy for me to understand how to wire the whole boat I like how you broke it down from the beginning from scratch thank you

[@jamesneirinck413]

Great how-to videos so thanks for putting these out. You commented you prefer solder vs crimp connections. My experience is driven from aircraft standards and those specify crimped connections using good quality AMP / aircraft grade terminals that crimp both the stranded tinned wire and also the insulation covering the wire. Also need to use a good quality crimp tool for this purpose. If you use low quality automotive style terminals and the simple single point crimp tool they only crimp to the wire and poorly at that and will fail if you pull on it. The correct AMP / aircraft style double crimp connector crimped with a good crimp tool will not pull out or fail. We tested them to failure and the wire will always fail first (so as strong as you can get) and the crimped connection remained intact. The crimped aircraft terminals are done that way for the strength but also for the same reason we use tinned and stranded wire, never solid wire, because of the possibility of flexing and vibration which is the same type environment on a boat as on an aircraft. A soldered connection is more prone to fail if flexed or subject to long term vibration. The added benefit of using AMP / aircraft grade crimped terminals is it is easy to do a new connection or add another terminal on the water as you don’t need power for soldering or the soldering equipment. Easier to carry a good quality crimp tool, wire stripper and extra terminals. Just a suggestion for you to consider or try yourself.

[@jeffclapp7330]

As a note, ABYC Standards do not allow solder as the sole means of connection for an electrical connector. You can crimp AND solder, but solder by itself is not permitted. So if your boat may be subject to ABVC Standards (or you want to meet typical standards) then crimping should be used or used as well. Not probably an issue based on the accent in the video, but I'm not sure of Euro/UK standards and if they differ.

[@jeffgriglack9624]

@@jeffclapp7330 I believe that soldering is not recommended because it can make the wire more brittle. You want the water to be flexible. Also, he "tinned" the wire with solder, but he should have already been using tinned wire.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your detailed comments / suggestions. I agree that good quality crimping tools and the corresponding connectors make for a robust solution. In many cases though people use cheap and nasty crimp tools leading to a poor joint, which in my opinion makes soldering more reliable compared to many poorly crimped connectors. I do take on board your comments though, and thanks for making them. Kind regards, Richard

[@debianlinux9448]

Wow!! This guy is true professor!! He explained in great detail yet made it very simple for us non electrical people.. thank you so much!!!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks very much for your kind comment

[@a.b5140]

Sir, your videos helped me so much in rewriting my boat. Thank you for the breakdowns of everything you made electrical simply.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi - thanks very much for your kind comment, I am very pleased that you find these useful

[@SV_Kittiwake]

Great video. I have just pulled out all old wiring. Perfect timing for me these videos. I’m looking forward to part 3

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Chris, thanks for your feedback. It is great to hear that you are finding these useful.

[@TheLogozz]

Brilliant stuff for a newbie and so calmly and clearly explained - educational talent right there! Would stay away from it myself, but in an emergency one might have to touch stuff hands on, and always good to have an awareness when discussing with professionals that I would hand things over too in any non-emergency situation....Many thanks from Sweden!

[@aa1405]

Excellent videos! Just bought a boat that needs a bit of work. This will help me a lot!

[@andrewbrown2063]

I have found it easier to understand once I get the concept of a circuit in my mind. A circle; starting and ending at the battery going out to the appliance on positive and back from the appliance on negative; with the various switches and fuses on the positive side. Good videos, thanks.

[@joedirt9600]

Very useful video as I have to go through the wiring on my boat and had no clue... Thank you

[@TheRemyRomano]

Very nice. Remarkable workmanship too!

[@belindablack9209]

Sooo looking forward all your vlogs. You have been the most helpful to date. I bought my boat, a real fix me upper, I am absolutely loving it. Wish I could start my own vlog but hey, lets's see. Thank you for your content. Exactly what I need. Take care.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi that's really kind - thanks for your comment. Good luck with the boat. All the best, Richard

[@Axel-xp8dx]

Danke für die großartigen Videos

[@labradorshalladore4966]

Thank you for your time and your series of videos

[@TMsite12]

Great video for a person like me! Thanks a lot of taking the time to create it.

[@BoatFittings]

Glad it was helpful!

[@offgrid8204]

Absolutely great video and explanation.

[@givansolis7687]

Very nice, I'm a rookie at electronics and I understood very well I'm waiting for the part 3!! 👍🏻

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I will try to get Part 3 out shortly.

[@deang5622]

It's electrics, not electronics.

[@garethallen2531]

Thanks mate, your effort is really appreciated.

[@BoatFittings]

Many thanks for your kind comment. Richard

[@amirbarmaor]

Thanks for this great video. All I need now is to find a boat and apply it ;-)

[@eoinmcmahon1323]

Of all the boat wiring videos i have watched i now understand the wiring circuit set-up. Thanks

[@mistercaptain2000]

The amount of positive comments is testament to how great your videos are. Thank you. I have a question: why couldn’t I use the negative bus bar on the switch panel for individual negative returns? On my switch panel the negative bar is of a similar gauge to that of the positive one, making me think it should handle the current that would return through it if I connect the peripherals there directly. Also, if no peripheral negative returns go to the panel bar, then why do you need the fat return from panel to battery? It would seem you would then only need a cable to handle the current from the panel pilot lights?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment / questions. I don't want to comment on your specific switch panel, but I if your switch panel has a good sized negative bus-bar then it would seem reasonable to make use of it. For your second question, the 'fat' negative return cable was used mainly as it came as part of a set (positive and negative) than the need for a fat wire. Kind regards, Richard

[@denisconnaughton2923]

Excellent video again. Cheers.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Denis, thanks very much for your comment.

[@Seacracker1]

Perfect video step by step

[@StefanWoldekidanKunskapsskolan]

Thank you! Great vid, easy to follow and really well explained.

[@BoatFittings]

Glad you enjoyed it! Next one coming soon

[@drewboardman9109]

Great video. Would love a part 3. Also, would you be able to explain how one would add maybe a second/third cabin light - or possibly fans? Would you need a new switchboard?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment, and suggestion. I will be doing something on adding more cabin lights in a later part of this series. All the best, Richard

[@gjaynarvasa8624]

Well done!

[@BoatFittings]

Thanks for your comment!

[@mjway5457]

Another great video. Job well done.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi - thanks for your kind comment!

[@Jolie_sailor]

Thank you for this instruction.

[@BoatFittings]

You are welcome!

[@keithd472]

Excellent explanations in clear, easy to understand language! Keep these coming as your demos are very useful to people like me who are refitting a boat. Thank you!

[@WeAndTheSea]

Great video! Thanks a lot for making this.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - glad you liked it!

[@CGV.69]

Excellent videos! Happy new subscriber 👍

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment, all the best, Richard

[@roberth7929]

Just my opinion, but I’d crimp the electrical connections. Solder only belongs on printed circuit boards. Love your videos!

[@vanessatait3184]

great video, so am I right in concluding that by runnung the negative wires through a bus bar that the electrical curcuit is now grounded ? Even though its not earthed ?

[@derykmacleod4979]

I try to crimp the connector first, then solder it, then slide a piece of heatshrink tubing with the glue inside it. It's a bit of an overkill but ya hope to only have to do it just once lol.

[@brianfedie8046]

Nice, Thanks!

[@BoatFittings]

Glad you liked it

[@ilhanaysan]

Please, sir, make a note in the video about soldering vs. crimping the “crimp terminals” used in the demonstration. Crimping is superior to soldering in marine environments. The pull test comparing a soldered connection and a crimped one you mention in some comments ignores the fact that the solder is brittle and is prone to fatigue failure in the long run. A crimped connection will not suffer from fatigue. This advice assumes that both the soldering and crimping are done properly. But also please keep in mind that soldering is a skill that needs to be practiced. Given an inexperienced audience in both, it’s easier to make a bad soldered connection (even with the best soldering stations, which are expensive) than to make a bad crimped connection (requires less skill and good crimping tools are cheaper than before these days). Kind regards.

[@OldGuySailing]

Hello What kind of soldering iron are you using ? Thank you for the videos

[@Alan-dr5by]

Thank you very much for these videos. Just what I needed to know. I did wonder what the wiring sequence is for the circuit as a whole. e.g Battery-Fuse-Switch-Device or Battery-Switch-Fuse-device? Would be good to understand if you could tell me.

[@danieltoledo2979]

This is the reason i pay for internet. Thank you !!!!!!!!!!

[@BoatFittings]

Ah thanks very much, you are very kind. All the best, Richard

[@macfarlanenz1]

Excellent

[@gamer4ev3r]

This circuit is in connected in series right?

[@jesus3901]

Thank you.

[@pwedza]

on the back of the terminal why does the black/neg go to the bar with the red/pos and the inverse?

[@petemac8229]

curious why you run the component ground/negative all the way to the bus bar versus just writing the component circuit to the negative switch bus? What drives the choice? Assuming the switch is at the front and the bus at the back would you just run the wiring to the closest ground? It may make sense as you build out the boat?

[@glennwelsby9472]

Why take such a heavy wire to the control panel from the negative busbar? Just for 6 lights?

[@Slimbo_85]

Great amazing video. Thank you so much, I’m doing my boat electric for the first time I’m still on the research part but I already order some parts. This is very informative and detailed It will definitely give me a good sense of confidence while doing it What’s the name of the power supply? I feel I’m gonna need it to test things before securing wires Also if you have any additional tips I’m open to it

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment. The power supply is a variable power supply, rated at 10A. You can find many versions of this with a quick google search. Mine has fully adjustable voltage and adjustable max. current draw which is useful. Kind regards, Richard

[@Slimbo_85]

@@BoatFittings thanks so much I just ordered the same one as yours.

[@richarddarnell2313]

Incredible video! One question though… can you use different negative wires on the same bus terminal? I am wiring up my boat right now and I have more negative wires than I have spots to put them

[@petemac8229]

My, inexperienced answer is yes. I have a bus with multiple wires on the same connector to the bus. The circuit just needs to have a positive and negative. Although like you I am rewiring as it is a mess and lots of wires that are obsolete or redundant!

[@markpullinger3916]

If you want more switch’s I assume you fit a second positive cable from terminal to second lot of switch’s

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. I would say that a second positive cable (like you mention) would be a good way to achieve this. Kind regards, Richard

[@markpullinger3916]

@@BoatFittings thanks you Richard keep videos coming 👍

[@BonkaWonka816]

I have a question about 2:02 Why did you solder it? Is it an alternative to crimping?

[@redhotcannon]

Don't do this. Marine wiring basics - All terminals should be crimped & insulated. It's ok to use solder + crimp, but not solder alone. Also "tinning" the end of the wire is not a substitute for marine grade wire that's tinned all the way through and the insulation is made to handle higher heat and exposure. Remember, you can't run away from a fire on a boat!

[@patrickfitzoot]

Why would you run such a large wire to the neg feed on the switch panel if its just the neg for the panel lights?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. Actually the negative wire happened to be part of a set purchased together, so it seemed a shame to waste it. Other than that no reason at all, and a lighter gauge wire would have been absolutely fine - well spotted. Kind regards, Richard

[@sivoltage]

Hi. Great video. May I ask why you didn’t install a main breaker from the +ve battery terminal. I’ve seen it on many other installs. Am I missing something? Thanks.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. As you have mentioned it would be possible to put the circuit breaker as part of the battery terminal. I have shown this as a separate mounted master-switch, as this gives you the choice of where to mount it for convenience of access etc. Richard

[@BasingstokeDogs]

Great stuff! Should there be a fuse close to the battery on the positive cable or is the fuse in the switch panel enough please?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Alan, thanks for bringing up this question - it is a very good question! I have often thought about this myself, you might say that if the Master Switch for example has a capacity of 100A then you could choose to protect the whole circuit with say a 75A fuse. In practice (in my opinion) as long as each component is protected by a fuse (suitable to that component) then that is more important. So I would not argue against protecting the whole electrical system from a 'master' fuse, but I think in practice this is a bit more 'belt and braces' than most people or boat builders would choose to go. It would be interesting other expert opinions on this. All the best, Richard

[@deang5622]

A single fuse inline with the battery is not required. The reason for this, in this instance all of the current from the battery going to any load passes through a fuse. So long as the cable from the battery to the integrated switch and fuse panel has been correctly sized. Any short or fault that occurs on any circuit is going to blow the fuse in the switch panel and cut power off to the circuit that has the fault, so you can never have a fault which can cause more than the maximum rated current for the battery-to-switch-panel cable to flow down that cable. Each circuit's fuse is lower than the current rating of that battery-to-switch-panel cable. All I would do is put in a master isolation switch in line with the battery's positive cable.

[@Marcellus.]

great videos, what about using fuse boxes....?? i dont see you not use these...

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. There is nothing wrong with separate fuse box and switching, I have just chosen to use a combined fused switch panel all in one unit which seems like a handy / simple way to do things. A fuse box though and separate switch for each item achieves more or less the same effect. All the best, Richard

[@rockydubois2418]

Everything looks great except why no tinned copper wire? Never mind I see you tinned it yourself!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Where possible I try to use pre-tinned wire. Sometimes certain items come with the non-tinned variety.

[@mdsherrell169]

Fantastic, could you explain how to add something else in . Ie all switches being used but want to add a USB port , can this be done Cheers

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment, and great question. I will try and cover this in a future video - great suggestion, thanks very much.

[@deang5622]

It's possible but you have to be careful. What you would do is wire in the USB charging port in parallel to something on a circuit, say for example a existing light. What you have to be careful of is this: a single output USB charger can deliver 2.1 amps at 5 volts, which is 10.5 watts. That when at 12 volts is 875 mA, which is close to an amp, for a single USB charging socket. And a lighting circuit is going to be a low current circuit. So the question is, do the cables in that circuit have enough thickness to cope with that extra current? And then you have to check out the fuse and ensure that can handle the current. Note, you don't increase the fuse rating just because you are adding more loads to the circuit. The fuse rating is set based on the current rating of the cable.

[@andrewcrooks373]

Pretty good….BUT . The negative bus bar should be right beside the switch panel….it will become obvious to anyone actually doing a basic 12volt fit out.

[@merseyian]

Shouldn't the battery terminal be crimped for greater security and electrical efficiency and safety

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. I am aware that some people prefer crimping, in my experience a good soldered joint will perform well. Crimping may provide some more security but I would say not any improvement in electrical efficiency - that's just my opinion. Kind regards, Richard

[@Alton-x]

Hi, regarding a small inboard engine, would the feed to the starter motor come off the battery switch along with the feed to the cabin (obviously using suitable size cable) and does the negative bus bar ground to anywhere on the boat (oyher than the battery) if its a grp boat?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your questions. In reverse order: No the negative bus-bar only grounds to the negative of the battery, there is no point in connecting it to the GRP which does not conduct electricity. As for the small in board motor question I do not have a definitive answer. It may be appropriate to have this coming off a completely separate 'master' switch in view of high current draw. It may also be feasible to have this off a common 'master switch for all' as long as the switch and wires are rated for the peak current draw added all together. All the best, Richard

[@sailingyachtrocknroll8402]

Surely the crimp terminals should be crimped not soldered?

[@highonbanana8265]

Soldering makes for an even better and long lasting connection 😊

[@BoatFittings]

With regard to high-amperage terminal / crimp connections, a few people (yourself included) have made mention of the idea that 'crimping is the way' and that soldering is unreliable as the connection might get so hot that it un-solders itself. My view is that a well-soldered joint will not ever get hot enough to un-solder itself, I will explain my thinking in a moment. Firtly though I do not have anything against crimping as such, and I would say that the ultimate would be to crimp (for a good mechanical connection) and then solder (for the best possible conductive connection). Personally I have sometimes had issues with crimped joints after a period of time when corrosion has set in, but not had issues with soldered joints. Now to the idea that a soldered joint can get hot enough to un-solder itself, in any electrical circuit the thing that can cause heat to build up is high current (amps) and a high electrical resistance. A well-soldered joint does not have a high electrical resistance, so unless something has gone severely wrong it does not seem likely to me that the soldered joint would reach a high enough temperature (lead solder melts at around 180 degrees C) to get near to melting. All of that said, if anyone has an direct experience of conditions that have caused a soldered joint near or around a battery terminal to melt, then please do let me know as I am genuinely interested. Kind regards, Richard

[@RobinCassells]

@@BoatFittings Imagine if there is a short between the panel and the battery... One of the uninsulated female spades gets knocked off and touches the other polarity for example. How many amps are now flowing through the cables to the panel from the battery? How hot is that cable going to get. I assure you that will melt solder in a tiny space of time. That is why the positive cable to the panel MUST be fused. Short out a battery and unfused cable will get red hot, cause a fire, and melt the solder. Vibration and the stiffening of the cable is another issue with soldered joints. A boat is not a bench top project. Things go wrong and people can die if you don't get these basic electrical issues correct.

[@markpullinger3916]

What siz wire are the lights

[@BoatFittings]

Hi the lights came with a small gauge wire, as they are LED's and don't have much current draw. Kind regards, Richard

[@debianlinux9448]

Just have a recommendation, next time please put the tools including wires you used on the video.. that’ll be so perfect for all of us..

[@BoatFittings]

Good idea!

[@_onesimpleidea]

​ @BoatFittings (or anyone else who can answer this, thanks) Agree with all "positive" comments (sorry, couldn't "resist" ... damn, did it again! ;-) Question: Everything is great except the _switch panel_. The wires and connections on the back of it confuse me to no end. Could be the Chinese labeling or some wires being the wrong color or maybe it's just me. My basic confusion ... why is there a negative connection to the switch panel at all? In other words, why is that panel not solely on the positive part of this circuit (for one of the same electrical reasons that the master switch works on the positive side of the circuit)? Guess: I think the answer is that the switch panel is not functioning ONLY as a switch. If it were, you could have only positive in, only positive out, and the switches would interrupt the current or connect it when needed. However, only because those little bulbs are in the plastic switch housing (to indicate ON or OFF), each switch also becomes a load of its own. So, as a collection of little loads, the switch panel needs both positive and negative connections. Am I close?

[@botoepfer546]

Is soldering terminals ABYC approved ?

[@BoatFittings]

Thanks for the question, I don't know the answer to that one - maybe somebody else can answer ....

[@deang5622]

I have just checked ABYC standards and apparently solder joints are not permitted. To be precise, they say that soldering should not be the sole means of making the connection, that is solder could be used with a crimp terminal but you can't just use solder by itself. I don't know if adherence to ABYC standards are a legal requirement, I can't answer that. It's not altogether clear why solder alone is not permitted, I have seen reference to a theory that the solder could melt if a high current flows (what's the point of fuses if not to protect from over current and excess heating!) and also a concern around the mechanical strength of the connection. I am aware that solder can lead to a chemical reaction taking place where metal contact, wire and solder are of different metals, and that chemical reaction over time leads to an increase in resistance leading to an increasing in heating at the joint, which in theory could cause it to fail. I have never come across this in practise on power circuits, I do know it is an issue in high performance audio circuits with an impact on sonic performance.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Dean, Thanks for sharing this detailed information - food for thought. Richard

[@waynemazan7485]

counting from the top its #3

[@BoatFittings]

Hi - ah maybe I made an error, thanks for you comment - I will re-check for the next video. Kind regards, Richard

[@prof2bobajob.klonded5]

what about fuses,or am i missing some think

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. The switch panel I have used has built in fuses. A separate video will show installation of a separate fuse panel - coming soon!

[@RobinCassells]

@@BoatFittings Those fuses to not protect the conductors between the battery and the panel - nothing does - it's dangerous.

[@15uzu]

Very bad practice in zip tying Positive & ground wires in the same holder, especially before your fuse block. Any penetration of the cables by way of accidental penetration of the insulation WILL lead to an short and potential fire.

[@15uzu]

Also, ALL of your terminals should have heat shrink down over the end of the terminal to prevent water ingress.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@RobinCassells]

Nice try - but dangerously wrong. Know what you are doing before educating others to create dangerous installations that don't conform to ISO or ABYC standards. The obvious point is having no fuses to protect the cables - this is a huge fire risk. The circuit to the panel should be fused after the battery. For example if one of the spade connectors at the panel comes off and shorts, the cable will take the full load of the battery = fire hazard with cables going through wooden bulkheads. The knock on effect of this is the generated heat will melt the soldered "crimps". All terminals and connections should be mechanically as well as electrically connected. With no fuse this could actually save the day but in the event of a fire those soldered joints failing could cause a dropped wire to short. Or indeed the melted solder dripping could cause a short. Use of a proper crimping tool and high quality crimps eliminates this problem. All of this happening in a workshop is bad, but at sea it is a disaster. There are correct ways of wiring boats for a reason. This not the correct way and is potentially dangerous. You are clearly not a marine electrician and have very little knowledge of how to use these components safely. Watch at least the first 5 minutes of this video to see why the unfused cable in this video is so dangerous at several levels: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqvJfH2te6iDntE

[@terrym3543]

They make crimpers for a reason. Soldering for low current is acceptable but not for higher currents. This is so bad don't do that.

[@williamadams7315]

ABYC E11 standard states "solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit". Definitely agree that crimp plus solder would have been to standard, but solder alone would not pass inspection

[@BoatFittings]

Thanks for your comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@genehyndman5927]

Sorry, but your showing your viewers one important thing very wrong, when your soldering wires, the flux in the solder that allows wires to connect to a connector or another wire is an acid and will corrode the connection overtime, you must clean the soldered connection with acid tones or something similar.

[@waterboy8999]

Thanks.

[@customlegoworks]

Sorry, but you are assuming something very wrong or are unaware of the following: did you ask if he is using no-clean solder and which type of flux is in the solder? I don’t think so…. Please review your J-STD documents, and next time, ask what kind of solder a person is using and then follow up with “if not using no- clean solder of certain flux compositions”…. “Your statement.”

[@melvinrawlings1457]

Agreed if not like he said it will definitely corrode

[@markjenkins6810]

Additionally you don’t want to solder the main connectors for the battery cables. They should be crimped only.

[@Thejourneyman83]

Why is that? Im looking at a major rewire of an H28 ​@@markjenkins6810

[@michaelkaarls5789]

This video series is perfect. I am sitting here watching ordering parts and wires as I go and can't wait to watch it over while installing items in my little runabout, Cheers for your work with sincere thanks from Victoria BC Canada

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@polarambassadors6777]

Hi ! Just what I needed ! This is by far the best tutorial I've seen so far. Thanks for making the effort of building this small wooden house ! It clarifies everything.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment, particularly with regard to the 'wooden house'. Even though this was quite a lot of additional effort, it seemed better than having a big jumble of wires on the bench. All the best, Richard

[@davidosullivan6351]

Excellent Video, great to come back to this for a check up before tackling my rewiring job

[@timber5893]

Looking forward to the rest of the series! I'm relying on the first to videos on wiring my old bass boat. Incredible job, sir. Best wiring explanation on all of the internet. You deserve greatness.

[@BoatFittings]

Well thank you very much indeed for you kind comments. I must get on with the next one very soon!

[@IdleWind]

@@BoatFittings soon indeed! Please. 🙂

[@velianlodestone1249]

This is great! Looking forward to the next episode. Question, I'm using fuse blocks instead of bus bars / fuse boxes - my boat has two cabins with the engine in between. Would you recommend having one fuse block per cabin (running a big, but only single wire through my engine bay rated for the fuse block. Or would you run individual wires to the seperate cabin and keep things centralised?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. I think it would be no problem to have individual fuse blocks in each cabin if that makes sense for your wire runs. The only thing I would add is to keep things obvious and clear for yourself, but more importantly for the next owner of your boat. I guess from that point of view people might expect one fuse block, so I would suggest finding a way of making it clear and easy to find that there are two fuse blocks if you decide to go that way. All the best, Richard

[@waterboy8999]

Brilliantly simple, but very well explained, thank you very much. I didn't think it was rocket science, just a bit overwhelming seeing the back of the control panels, but I did think its only one wire at a time.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Yes they do look a bit overwhelming at first glance, glad to have simplified things a bit for you. Richard

[@waterboy8999]

@@BoatFittings Thanks Richard, you certainly have, most things can look very complicated at first, like what are those rope for!?

[@scottwiley2222]

The potential load according to him is 30 A and the wire supports 30 A. I thought you generally wanted to only have 80% of the theoretical capacity and max. So I would think the wire should be enough to support 37.5 A, or essentially 40 A.

[@JennySusanti-u1q]

Which voltage should I choose for a trimeran? 12, 24, 36 or 48? If it has twin 2000hp diesels and 5 800kw outboards what sort of capacity should the batteries have? Is lithium the lightest? Thanks Philip

[@lildeena1]

What are your thoughts on putting a bus bar closer to the switch panel? also Using a fuse block and using 1 wire with 2 wires in it for Pos and Neg? Thanks for the series I'm finally getting less intimidated and looking forward to cleaning up the rat's nest situation I have under my center console boat.

[@Electronzap]

Good info.

[@RechargeableLithium]

I definitely would not solder any joints on any vehicle subject to vibration. Solder turns a flexible, stranded wire into a solid core, which will fatigue and break when vibrated. Crimp terminals should be crimped; then covered with double wall, glue lined heat shrink tubing to waterproof them. Crimp connections are easy to get right with a little bit of practice, and good quality crimpers are readily available.

[@Bonipertis]

What is the point of running a negative lead from the swich panel to the bus bar and then run the negative lead of the light to the bus bar instead of connecting it to the switch panel?

[@wvusom]

I looked but could not see question & answer in previous posts, so here goes: why does the negative from light not connected to negative side of switch panel, but instead is run to negative bus? Or does the switch panel not have a negative side and for my simplistic brain, would it make more sense to put the negative bus beside switch panel?

[@stephenscott963]

New subscriber and apologies as my wife runs and hides when I put batteries in a flash light! Great videos, but do t understand all the soldering? Thanks!

[@paulcapell5676]

Your videos are helping me understand the system thank you . Is the buzz bar the same as ideal as hooking up a fuse bar . Thanks.

[@redwood1957]

Your battery needs a fuse to protect wires. I also would put a switch to isolate the main panel

[@samuelcarlsson7728]

Great video! I have two led strips. How do i wire them so that they both turn on with one switch?

[@shanemacmillan]

Should there be a a fuse from the battery to on/off switch?

[@2frogland]

crimps are normally preferred in harsh environments, great aid for the diyer

[@danielboughton3624]

Which is why they are used on automobiles and pretty much everything else. There are people who insist on soldering everything because they had a crimp they did go bad but they can never answer why a 30 year old car still has good crimps. If you are going to solder then get solder connectors v.s. using crimp ones and then add shrink wrap to provide some stress relief as well as short protection. The big issues with solder beyond the time to do it are corrosion due to the flux and cracking due to the hard spot. Modern solders also take a lot of heat and that means melted wire covering which is perhaps why silicon is being used here.

[@darrengillesdarrengilles8336]

never ring cut stranded conductor to remove the jacket

[@kristofmihaly]

Great video, very clear and well explained! I have a question though: Why does the black wire needs to be so think which goes to the switch panel? It supposed to supply the negative only for the lighting of the switch panel, which is like 6 LEDs. Or did I misunderstand?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. Actually the negative wire happened to be part of a set purchased together, so it seemed a shame to waste it. Other than that no reason at all, and a lighter gauge wire would have been absolutely fine - well spotted. Kind regards, Richard

[@andrewcase9652]

Very well explained and looking forward to Part 3. I am hoping you will deal with the challenge of multiple interior lights and running out of switches as the series progresses . Thanks again

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment. Thanks for your suggestion on looking into the wiring of multiple lights - I will keep this in mind for one of the videos in the series. All the best, Richard

[@hoverwatch4131]

Can you run a busbar for all your led lights back via a single wire to the switch/breaker to avoid overcrowding the switch with more and more wires as lights are added (or any other system where things are added on. Subject to load obviously).

[@hoverwatch4131]

Great videos by the way

[@MarcasTriesEtsy]

@@BoatFittings looking forward to seeing this. ☺

[@brucewalker1908]

Much easier to solder if you use Flux

[@getaswordactual8766]

Excellent video Richard, both parts have made what could be a confusing problem, very simple. I plan to refit my electrics this winter, so will keep a close eye on your videos.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Many thanks for your comment, happy that our videos are helping.

[@rockydubois2418]

Definitely the cleanest and most precise boat wiring installation instruction video I’ve ever seen! Subscribed.

[@BoatFittings]

Many thanks - I must try and get the next video done soon, thanks for subscribing!

[@adelbadawy7861]

Best instructor and best tutorials. Into the point without any complications

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@fishntools]

Where is the fuse/ breaker AT THE Battery? Here is a "best practice" tip: Coat all wire conductors (and terminals) with dielectric grease prior to crimping and heat shrinking, same for ALL plugs, sockets and fuse blades! (obviously this does not apply to solder type connectors)

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / suggestions. I take on board your comment to have a main fuse breaker at the battery. Kind regards, Richard

[@kimbirkebaekeskildsen637]

Great video which explain boat wiring in an easy understandable way, but sorry that I have to be the grumpy old man, but a fuse between the positive side of the battery and the master switch is mandatory, to be in compliance with the safety standards for boats, booth in EU and for USA. Imagine what will happen if a shortage happens between the positive side to the negative side somewhere between the battery and the switch board. Worst case scenario is a fire onboard, overheating of the battery, which might cause the battery to explode. So please add a main fuse. How to dimension the fuse? Calculate the total possible load and add 25%.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your informative comment. I take this on-board, and will make some future video incorporating this information. All the best, Richard

[@JuanVarela-n7i]

Friendly question. Why solder, instead of crimping. Why not both?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. In my experience I have never experienced problems with well-soldered joints, but I have experienced problems with crimped connections once corrosion has got in. I realise that some people prefer crimps, and I think at the end of the day it is a matter of preference and experience of what works best for you

[@easemailboxes]

Thanks so much for pt1. Really made it easy as does this pt2.

[@BoatFittings]

Glad to hear that these are helpful. All the best, Richard

[@geoffallen1331]

You may already have answered these questions. 1.Could I have a Live buss bar further in the boat. As the run to the batteries is rather long 2 could the negative buss bar also be further away with a run of about 3 metres to the batteries Geoff

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Geoff, thanks for your question. I do not see any problem in principal with locating your busbars away from the battery, at a point convenient for you. The main thing is to use a wire from the busbar to the battery that is up to the total current you want to pass along it. All the best, Richard

[@20snowpack]

Can anyone tell me where you would wire in the solar energy coming from the charge controller in this set up? My first instinct would say wire it straight to the battery terminals but I have seen other videos where people wire it to the bus terminals so the solar energy can flow straight to the loads. Any insight? Let me know.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you question. I will probably that topic in a future video where I can give a full and considered answer / discussion on this. In the meantime I would hope that you solar panel would come with a recommended installation guide. Kind regards, Richard