What’s the Difference Between a Try Plane & Jointer Plane | Hand Plane Foundations

Welcome to my Hand Plane Foundations course. In this course I'm going to introduce the different types of bench planes and discuss their setup and use, focusing on the planes you’ll need most as a new hand tool woodworker. I’ll cover sharpening the iron, setting up the cap iron, and troubleshooting and tuning the tool up to perform at its best. I’ll finish up by building a modern two tone cutting board from some beautiful North American hardwoods, completely by hand.

[@johnschillo4452]

This was very helpful. I have an ECE English style "jack" (17") which I'd say is a fore plane. I love it. My ECE "short jointer" (22") arrives today. It's narrower than my 24" jointer. I'll just use all 3 without switching blades.

[@davidclark9086]

ECE is a German company and their planes are, in my opinion, extremely good.

[@edwardog]

This was a great explanation! Thank you Bob.

[@deezynar]

Another excellent video with very sound information.

[@MrZOMBIE170]

In Scotland the old term for a jack plane is called a half long and try plane is called a long plane

[@Cowmageddon]

Really enjoying your videos

[@dshowrocks]

whoah! what an education which enlightens so much...thank you....

[@canobenitez]

thanks! I'm very happy with my jack plane and smoothing plane. I don't feel that I need more. (perhaps a scrub plane )

[@whittysworkshop982]

I am an "old soul", so I very much like your historical explanations of the tools Bob :) I dont prescribe to the normal numbering system for some of my planes...... a 5 1/2 is my fore plane, a 6 or 7 is my try plane depending on the size of the part im truing. I name them for what they do for me, not by what number is cast into the sole or what Stanley said they were for. I use my try plane to true edges as well as faces. I do use a slight camber on this tool, even for edges..... not as much camber as a jack plane would have, but a little more than what a smoother would have. I find it much easier to square an edge with a slightly cambered iron, I can center the iron to the high side of an edge to take it down and make it square. I found using a straight iron to do this job frustrating and vexing.... I struggled to make an edge square. Maybe I lacked the technique to do it this way. I am enjoying this series of videos, they would be a great help for the newer woodworker, you are a good teacher Bob :)

[@BRFineWoodworking]

Thank you!

[@DIYwithDennis]

Great historical explanation! btw, great video series on the hand plane!

[@BRFineWoodworking]

Thanks!

[@LegacyOfMCF]

The was really helpful. Thanks mate

[@lukasdvoracek6344]

Great, thank you :)

[@mr.shellcracker9161]

What would try plane would you recommend to someone trying to acquire a try plane ? I’ve heard older metal try planes can be problematic. I thought about picking up one the ece jointers. Always enjoy your videos.

[@BRFineWoodworking]

ECE is good. I have the Ulmia version. Lie Nielsen and Veritas are great as well. Old USA & UK made Stanley are usually fine too.

[@johnschillo4452]

hi, I know this is a 7 month old response. I have 3 different lengths of ECE planes - a 24" jointer, a 22" short jointer (try plane) and a 17" English jack plane (fore plane). It's an ECE older version. I think ECE offers it a bit shorter now. I have bought my ECE's from Dieter Schmid in Germany (great selection and fast shipping). I love the 17" fore plane! It does the job easily. I own both Ulmia and ECE. I have an older Ulmia bench and someday a great grandchild will use it. Both companies offer superb value. They've been operating for 170 - 150 years.