Bonsaify | Branch Cuts and Air Layering on a Japanese Maple Bonsai

[@VuHoang-bp3nu]

Love your videos….you explain every single step and reasons why u cut or work on a particular area…

[@Bonsaify]

Thanks 👍

[@nillysbonsai9636]

Nice piece of material there! Thanks for sharing

[@NoQuarter01]

When adding the Sphagnum moss how much water do wring out of it? Like all until there’s no more dripping or leave a little bit wet? Or does it matter? Great video sir thanks!

[@Bonsaify]

Initially just wring it out so it's easier to work with - but you're going to keep it pretty wet afterward anyway...

[@borismaiorov3358]

do you see (generally) any difference between 'horizontal' vs 'vertical' air-layers? What is your 'rooting mix'?

[@Bonsaify]

Honestly, I've not had a lot of success with layers in the past. This is in part because San Francisco summers are cool, especially at night. That's why I said I needed some practice! The rooting mix is 80%perlite / 20% coco, same as what I use for seedlings and cuttings.

[@jockez3581]

​@@Bonsaify Try using Sphagnum moss instead and wrap some dark plastic bag around so that it stays moist. It works. Peter Chan style.

[@questionablecooking7019]

No rooting hormone? When you plant in a field, will you put a board(not tacking down roots to a board) or tile under the tree to force the roots to spread. Thanks for sharing.

[@Bonsaify]

Great question! I should have covered that, but I elected to try it without hormone. The main reason being that I believe placing the tree in the greenhouse afterward will drive rapid root formation due to it being 85F and 90% humidity all day.

[@bonsa1guy]

The application of rooting powder rarely makes any difference with maples. The carbs deposited at the cut site is the key driver of root formation. Acer has one of highest success rates when layering. As soon as you ring bark the layer above it's effectively a chop. The air layered piece won't throw out any additional foliage and you should see everything under it get more vigorous as a result. The foliage on the layer will sometimes resemble the beginning of Autumn colours as roots are generated.

[@watsup6084]

@@bonsa1guy Interesting, I notice this with my cuttings as some of them get red. Any Idea why this is the case? Is the chlorophyll used for something?

[@bonsa1guy]

@@watsup6084 I believe it's hormonally related. It was explained to me by a plant botanist but to be honest I couldn't accurately replicate his rather complex explanation.

[@questionablecooking7019]

@@bonsa1guy thanks for the info brother

[@webbastler839]

Hi, great, thank you, may I ask which kind of maple it is exactly?

[@Bonsaify]

Acer palmatum, Japanese maple - normal seedling type.

[@pedroreyes5158]

When is the best time for airlayer?

[@tabletkashmir3708]

During growing season, right after new leaves have 'hardened off' aka become mature and actually produce energy. That way the foliage actually produces nutrients and root growth hormones to make the layering survive. In the northern hemisphere right now is the best time, giving the layering maximum time to becom independent before possible separation in fall. In southern hemisphere, wait for your equivalent of late spring/ early summer

[@pedroreyes5158]

@@tabletkashmir3708 thanks

[@alessandromassimo5717]

I had 80% success doing 75 air layers start of spring (when the apricot tree made flower) I did olives myrtle lagestroemia maple and carpinus

[@KennetDeBondt]

Any updates?

[@Bonsaify]

This is the follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/enTZhKagZa2ZppI Thanks!

[@lassepind]

What do you mean by there being no 'taper'?

[@Bonsaify]

The trunk is largely the same size from bottom to top. To create the illusion of size, it's best for the trunk to taper from large to small as dramatically as possible as it rises.

[@lassepind]

@@Bonsaify Thanks! And thank you for your excellent videos!