Boring Dovetial Jaws

Boring chuck jaws for some Inconel 925 Parts

[@camilewis87]

You are one badass machinist Peter. Always love your videos.

[@GnosisMan50]

So true, Cami. I like to think of Peter as a Zen Master Machinist.

[@rafihussain]

U are pure educator. Not a show off. But as suggestion u need some business show off. Best sharing ever.

[@kiranjamdade1710]

Excellent. I have experienced that sometimes if you don’t deburr the jaws, the job do not run true

[@noisytim]

That is such a clever solution! I’d never have thought of something this elegant. Good thing I’m a hobbyist, and you’re the pro :D

[@SolidRockMachineShopInc]

Love it. I will have to remember this trick. Always nice to see someone thinking outside the box. Hopefully our next video will be turning a surface grinder into an I.D grinder with some creative thinking. Steve

[@smalltownrifleman]

I love your stuff Peter. Keep up the good work. Don't be so critical of yourself. You don't have to feel guilty for doing a professional and competent job. You are a guy who's fixturing and tooling are well thought out and well executed and it is a joy to watch you do things and hear what you have to say. Please keep the videos coming.

[@jeffbowser8360]

There are lots of machining videos out there, but yours are always my favourite to watch. Love seeing the setups!

[@nevillemarchand6140]

Unreal precision and workmanship hope your clients pay accordingly. Regards Nev

[@michaelhansen9639]

Always impressive... a shout out for your shirt... welding tips and tricks another of my favorite channels

[@bouzidtaoufiksm]

Thanks for sharing good practices.

[@allanmorgan4976]

Mate, love your channel always something informative.

[@davestrong6472]

Another great video..alway impressed at how much skill goes into these parts. I hope you show the rest of the operations. Dave

[@EdgePrecision]

I'm going to show as much as I can. These people are very protective of their secrets, so well see. The job does require me to make a lot of custom tooling I will be showing that.

[@petera1033]

One of the most fascinating to watch vids I've seen - X-ray effect because of the gap in the jaws....(as usual brilliant machining Pete)

[@thondupandrugtsang]

Watching your machining is always amazing.

[@theessexhunter1305]

Very sharp, like I have said it blows me away what people like you and these modern machines can do. Only thing I find wanting is what these parts do or fit?When I was a16 year old apprentice in the 70's some drawings used to have a red stamp on, I thought it was secret but only urgent lol

[@gayle4s383]

Thanks. Great video, again. That chuck is more expensive than my garage 😀

[@mackk123]

Sometimes boring activities can be really deep.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nice method very solid, love it. Thanks Peter for sharing.

[@barryboyd7973]

Wow, no pressure here...just $5,000 per mistake! Very impressive as usual 🙂

[@wings808]

Love your channel! I used to work with a DMG gamma CTX2000, similar to your Mazak! I found your content is by far the most creative and in-depth CNC channel on KZbin. Appreciate your work a lot. I did the dovetail before on a hydraulic chuck, to overcome the jaw's travel limitation, I milled 3 open area big enough for the soft jaws to go in, then rotate the part into the dovetails, and clamped. Anyway,

[@EdgePrecision]

Yes I have done the same I just didn't go into detail. We have used this method especially on parts that aren't round to do milling and turning(boring a off center hole with threads and other details). By preparing the material with a dovetail to fit the three jaw hydraulic chuck jaws.

[@malikdegri1358]

Nice video, thanks for sharing your tips & knowledge.

[@billdlv]

Nice job Peter, looks like a big job.

[@EdgePrecision]

Bill De La Vega Thanks. Wait till you see the tooling needed to do the ID work.

[@josechavez3670]

Post the finished part. I love inconel

[@kevinl5878]

Another great video you are a pleasure to watch

[@blackstonshingaling]

Unbelievably precision - Nice.

[@floodo1]

Can't wait to see some finished parts! Really nice solution to a common problem actually (-8

[@bertr5650]

Very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Bert

[@eyespark4162]

I'm always watching your video l'm rooting for you!!

[@JaakkoF]

Regarding dialing in a 4-jaw, the quick method is to preclamp, run the dial indicator through one revolution and zeroing it at the half the TIR min-max range. Then just adjust the jaws to zero on the second revolution of the chuck.

[@EdgePrecision]

The way I typically do this is very similar to what you suggest. I initially concentrate on two of the jaws say jaw 1 and 3. Position the chuck and indicator in line with jaw 1 zero the indicator rotate the chuck to law 3 note the difference adjust jaw 1 and 3 to split that difference than zero the indicator than go to jaws 2 and 4 and adjust to that zero. After that it takes very little to get to running true.

[@micahhunter2706]

Always a pleasure, Peter.

[@mackk123]

This is a boring jaws video haha Very exciting to see.

[@whatsonh5737]

Usefull trick. Might be very handy

[@nikolaiownz]

Yeah this works great.. we use it sometimes on out big lathes... with about 2 tons on the chuck

[@miguelneto2695]

Great video

[@derekgreen7319]

Great vid man. Keep them coming please !

[@tj9382]

Awesome stuff

[@fury902]

This might be boring to you bossman, but we're learning a lot over here...keep these vids coming, we love them

[@EdgePrecision]

Glad I could be of some help thanks.

[@Tools4Machines]

Nice workholding solution, Peter. -- Cheers, Gary

[@EdgePrecision]

Thanks Gary.

[@ray-charc3131]

Hammering action really showed this a great machine as well as the holding method。 What，s more， it saves some length of material in holding it。。。

[@GhulamHussainEngineeringWorks]

Beautiful

[@Edge2219]

Awesome man. Great idea!

[@michaelpiotrowicz6100]

It would be nice if your gun drill shop could do your centre drill chamfers for you in their setup. Even just one end :)

[@lorenlieder9789]

Peter you are the MAN!!

[@mattbockman4353]

Very nice. I use dovetails on my mill and have held parts by as little as 0.02" for a 0.25" thick part. I've been wanting to try this on my lathe, good to see others doing it. What type of deburring tool do you use in the video?

[@TheWatchMker]

What kind of extending ratchet is that? I could definitely use one. Also your a hell of a machinist. I love hearing your thought process as you make parts. Especially stuff like this.

[@EdgePrecision]

Thanks lacrossainer. I bought it from Northern Tool at their local store here. It’s a 3/4” drive. Sorry I don’t remember the exact pert number. It has been a very good wrench. I have even put a cheater pipe on it and pulled with all I can. As of yet I haven’t been able to bend it.

[@garylarson6386]

without the dovetial that would be alot of stock weight sticking out, yes master machinest

[@jsskangas]

Thanks for a great tip.

[@Lorenz.Machine]

Awesome, what a great trick!

[@James-fs4rn]

genius! thanks again for sharing.

[@multiHappyHacker]

That's pretty awesome.

[@dahut3614]

So each part is trued three times in the four-jaw chuck? No wonder you're so good at it!

[@sunppaa]

Awesome! Thanks for the vid! Do you leave the dovetail on the part or is it removed later?

[@EdgePrecision]

Yes the dovetail will be machined away when the part is turned around when machining the other end.

[@MakinSumthinFromNuthin]

Thats awesome Peter, your shop is amazing 👍🏼 ~ Richard

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I love the fact that you take time to deburr the jaws. Is that a NSK-grinder?

[@EdgePrecision]

Thanks. Yes its a NSK Espert 500 power supply. The motor hand piece is a ENK-500T. The Spindle is a EHR-500. I have had this grinder for about 12 years and haven't had any problems with it. It is some what expensive but any quality tool is. There are many other attachments that can be used with it. The motor is constant torque and has very good power even a low RPM's. The range is 0-50,000 RPM but even at 1000 RPM it is very difficult to stall.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thank you. I seriosly am thinking about getting a Nsk grinder..

[@RocketGary]

Great job! Could you share speeds and feeds for turning operetion?

[@EdgePrecision]

Wow this has been so long ago. I don't remember, Sorry. The jaws are made out of 1018 steel. Because of the intermittent cut I would probably run about 400 surface footage and around .008" feed and a shallow .050" depth of cut. So as to not break the insert. Even Shallower on the 35 diamond tool. Say .030". Hope that helps.

[@HH-Machining]

Do you manually write the code to check the tool offset, if any correction is needed for the final run? Would be nice to see how your program structure looks like. Do you have all "finishing" passes separately, so you can tweak the dimensions with tool offsets? A video of making program and how you prefer to do it would be nice. With tool offset tweaking etc :)

[@EdgePrecision]

I do very little manual coding. It is better if you can do it in the cam software. Less chance of a typo error. If it can also be simulated on the cam software even better. I do try to program finish cuts separate and with different tools than for roughing. This makes it easer to rerun the finish cuts and also puts less load/wear on the finishing tools. Normally I program to the nominal parts dimensions and use the machine's offset capability (Cutter comp/tip comp and length comp) to bring the part into dimension.

[@turbotona25]

This is an awesome idea!! Do you have a part number on that bar? I can’t really find one with clearance like that.

[@EdgePrecision]

It’s a Sandvik bar and head. I’m not at the shop right now. Tomorrow I will look at it and give you the numbers.

[@EdgePrecision]

The bar is C6-570-2C 40 092. The head is 570-DVUNR-40-16.

[@micahhunter2706]

After three years of seeing this video I just noticed there's a typo in the title.

[@robmcquillen2516]

Awesome video! I noticed you are using a NSK deburring tool. Which model do you use and would you recommend it? We machine a lot of aluminum castings, do you think it would be effective against thicker burrs and flashing left after machining?

[@EdgePrecision]

The NSK grinder is this. The power supply is a Espert 500. This can connect two separate tools at a time. There is a foot pedal option (witch I have never used) also.The motor is a ENK-500T. This can mount different spindles and attachments to it. It is a constant torque motor with a speed range of 1,000-50,000 RPM. This motor is the high torque it has a impressive amount of torque even at 1,000 RPM. There is a switch on the motor to turn it on and off so you just leave the power supply on constantly set to the RPM while using it. The spindle cartage I use is a EHR-500. This takes a shank diameter of up to .125". They make larger ones also. The thing I like about this cartage is it doesn't require any tools to change the burr. Just twist and change the tool re twist and you are going again (once the collet is adjusted to begin with). Yes this tool would have enough power to remove even large burs especially on large castings. If you want to us larger burs with say a .250" shank they make larger motor/spindle combinations for that. I believe they could be connected to the same power supply. Just search for the espret 500 series high torque brushless micro-grinder. There is a pdf brochure. It is a expensive tool but its worth it. I have owned it for more than 15 years with no problems at all.

[@robmcquillen2516]

Thanks for the detailed response. Can you recommend a good source for the burrs?

[@dfpolitowski2]

Excellent idea. I never seen this done before. However if this piece does not turn out parallel to the spindle from the get go, you will never be able to indicate it in. That dove tail locks it down unmovable.

[@EdgePrecision]

Yes that's the idea. If you machine the dovetail at the same time as the end details all should run true. Assuming that your chuck jaws are true. In this case I chucked on to rough stock with serrated hard jaws. I didn't take particular care to get everything running true maybe within .020". When I turn the part around if I indicate what I already turned up close to the chuck every thing should be running true along the imaginary centerline out to the end of the part.

[@skirifles2076]

Love your vids Peter! Keep'em coming. Will you save the soft jaws for a future job that might come up, or just scrap them? And yes!, please show as much as the customer will allow you. Thanks!

[@EdgePrecision]

If I think the job will be a repeat job I will save them. These jaws will be use full for also holding fixtures as well.

[@curt149k]

First rate. Thank you.

[@jchesher22]

Great idea, and video! I've got a job coming up this week that I would like to try this on. It's very similar in shape to the part you were working on. I was wondering if you had a rule of thumb regarding the size of the dovetail relative to the size of the part you're turning. Not sure if that makes sense, but the part I'm turning will be hanging out 13" from the face of chuck and is 11.875" in diameter. This will be on a quick turn 350, just like centerline owns(from your "shop tour" video), with a 12" chuck. It's a 3 jaw, but I thought about milling slots in the dovetail to get around the stroke restrictions of the chuck. Do you think a .75" x 30 deg. dovetail like you used would be enough, should I go bigger, or is that even a good option for a 12" chuck? Any info you could pass along would be appreciated. Thanks!

[@Bigwingrider1800]

YOU HAVE MY VOTE.. YOU KNOW YOUR WAY AROUND METAL REMOVAL ...GOTTA GIVE TO YA..

[@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391]

50 years ago toolrooms were full of people like this, in another 50 years, perhaps as little as 15 there won't be anyone. Perhaps this chap should move to India as train the next generation of machinists.

[@EZ_shop]

Amazing!

[@GIANGTHETOOL]

Hi Peter, I'm thinking about doing a light dovetail jaw (just very small angle) to clamp a thin POM piece, do you think it is better than a straight jaw for keeping the stock in place, for roughing purpose. Thank you.

[@EdgePrecision]

I need to know a little more details about what your doing before I can answer this. With thin wall tubular parts things change.

[@GIANGTHETOOL]

@@EdgePrecision it's a solid POM part, 2.5" in diameter x 0.25" long, raw material was cut into size 0.6" long, in case I have 0.15" left for clamping the part. I'm not sure if the light dovetail can improve the holding.

[@EdgePrecision]

@@GIANGTHETOOL Yes the dovetail will work. But why not put a good angle on it? If you did that it would work, even if it was only .100” long. It will also let you reduce the chuck pressure. The lower chucking pressure will keep the part flatter on the face if that’s critical. But if you do turn down the chucking force. Limit the max speed on the facing cut. So the chuck doesn’t loose a grip on the part.

[@GIANGTHETOOL]

Thanks Peter

[@willywgb]

Hi Peter I have been watching your channel for a while now and love your Videos. You are one capable machinist. It's so nice to watch someone that is great at there trade. What make and model is the machine your using in this video? Very versatile. Cheers Willy

[@EdgePrecision]

The machine is a Mazak Integrex e650H.

[@sachie123]

That is just awesome...any suggestions for us folks with a 3jaw hydraulic chuck?

[@EdgePrecision]

sunilkumar vc , If you wanted to use this chucking method you could do a couple of things. Reduce the size of the dovetail. OK if the part is smaller. Or mill notches to insert the jaws in and rotate the part or chuck and clamp. Kind of like a breach lock closure. This is more work but there is no way the part or fixture could come out of the chuck. This is a very good option for a fixture that's going to be used over and over again.

[@sachie123]

Edge Precision Thanks for the reply. When you do get a chance, can you do a short video on this subject...thanks.

[@benzbabecki6309]

I've done this with milling applications with a great deal of success. I'm wondering though, if you used a shallower angle, say 15 degrees, if it would still be as effective for pulling those faces together. Might make it more of an usable option on power chucks. Also, what machine do you have there?

[@EdgePrecision]

We have made smaller ones in the travel range of the hydraulic chuck. Depending on the size of the part. They worked fine. We have also held parts in the small Integrex three jaw that were not round by milling a triangular shaped dovetail on the end. And chucked them in the hydraulic chuck. These were around .2-.25 tall with a 30 deg side angle. On parts they weighed around 60 lbs and were around 6” square and 10” long.

[@33cut83]

what material are they makin the jaws out of and how much do they go for? excellent work.

[@EdgePrecision]

These are H&R jaws. I think they use 1018 cold rolled steel, just looking at them and the way the machine. A set of jaws the size you see in this video 4 Pcs. (4 jaw chuck) cost's about $400.00. They are big jaws 3" thick 6.625" long and 4.75" tall. That's about 26 Lbs. each. To give a comparison I can buy a set for my 8" 3 Jaw chuck I use in this machine for about $45.00

[@policebox1092]

good

[@173roberto]

Peter I love your videos. I'm just a newbie in the CNC lathe and I have to make a lot of threaded parts from stainless hexagon and I'm worried because this week too many of my inserts died because I coulnd't control the process very well. I don't know why my threading inserts worn so fast. I have a question, why do you use CAD/CAM instead of canned cycles? Some machininst say that hand programmers are more profesionals than CAD/CAM and I've realized that canned cycles really help me to modify the programs really fast instead of swimming into CAD/CAM G codes. See man I have no body here who can help me therefore I have to teach my self :P that is why I really apreciate that you share your experiences.

[@EdgePrecision]

When you use Cam software you can select to use canned cycles or not use them. If your post is set up to output the canned cycles. I generally output canned cycles for drilling and tapping cycles. For threading on the lathe I let the software output straight cod (No canned cycle). There is nothing good or bad about using canned cycles its just two different ways to do the same thing. It is a little easier to edit canned cycles at the machine. If anyone says they are more professional using cad/cam I wouldn't pay any attention to them. In fact I have seen programmers that are pretty good with the computer that cant even run a machine to save their life. If you can run the machine, program at the machine and make good parts you are doing great. That's the way I did it in the beginning.

[@173roberto]

I do all! I make drawings, operate, make hand G code programs at the machine, make setups and run the firsts parts until it matches the dimmensions. If the process is stable then I let the operator run the production. My problem is that I haven't make my inserts to produce the amount of parts Iscar tells me.

[@909busa]

Have you done a top 5 biggest mistakes i made machining video? I assume you had a part come out of chuck before you started dovetail. This would be interesting to watch.

[@EdgePrecision]

I have had parts come out of a chuck (On smaller machines) but never on this machine. Most of the time this kind off thing happens is because you get in a hurry and don't check the program or are careless in your setup (read that as doing something stupid).

[@martinyowan3142]

Iam Murali working in mazak turnmill. We made mazatrol program for turning but milling we made software program. How we made manual program for milling (ISO)

[@EdgePrecision]

I also find the Mazartrol milling confusing.

[@hdfanboy]

Thats an impressive looking part Peter. Can I ask why you touch off the boring bar on the chuck jaws instead of using the tool probe.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

Could be because thats where he programed z0 on that op because that tool was not setup yet?

[@EdgePrecision]

The tool probe on this machine does work but it is high above the chuck when folded down.It is some what difficult to see what you are doing(This machine doesn't have a remote pendent for the hand wheel). I find its just as easy to touch tools manually on the work. The Mazak shows on the display where the tool is at all times so its quite easy to know when you have the offset correct. Unlike say a Fanuc or Haas or similar controls where you have to call the offset to find out where you are.

[@hdfanboy]

Edge Precision oh right that's fair enough. It is way easier setting tools on the intergrex's we have because of the jog dial on the pendant but yeah without that it would be a pain to do as you said.

[@number2664]

Is it a requirement to have the stock against the front face, rather then the back face of the jaws?

[@EdgePrecision]

Not necessarily, but I like to use the front face because it’s supporting on a larger diameter that way.

[@number2664]

@@EdgePrecision thankyou. I couldn't see a reason but you never know. First time trying this tomorrow. The workpiece is prepped and so are the jaws. thankyou for responding to an old video 😀

[@mannycalavera9181]

Thanks heaps for making these videos. Learning so much about these machines. We have a new NTX2000 at work I just did a week training on, totally new experience. With the dovetails, is there and concerns or possibility of the material breaking away from the chuck? Seems Luke a huge amount of material and force sticking way out. Chatter is an issue?

[@EdgePrecision]

Thanks, With the dovetails it would take a tremendous force to break anything. The chuck jaws I am using are some kind of mild steel (maybe 1018) so things would give before breaking. As to chatter the thing that most worried me was the 6 pitch buttress thread in Inconel 925 out at the end of the part. That's 17.2" from the face of the chuck jaws. It did it with no problem. The dovetail is .750 tall by 60 degrees X 7.25 Diameter. The part mates up to the shoulder at the bottom of the dovetail and the taper. This sucks the part up to the jaws face. This is a very secure way to hold something in a chuck. With a hydraulic chuck the jaws don't have enough travel to chuck this big a dovetail. You can put notches to clear the jaws. Put the jaws in the notches and rotate the part and chuck if that is possible. I have also done this on smaller parts with smaller dovetails.

[@mannycalavera9181]

Edge Precision Thanks. I was going to ask if you could use standard 3 jaw hydraulic chuck with smaller v groovea? Learning a lot about these machines from your videos. I'm an adult apprentice working on 3 axis mills that has been put on a mill turn. No one in the shop has used one before so it's all learning as we go.

[@mannycalavera9181]

Is there a rule of thumb for size of workpiece vs size of dovetail?

[@EdgePrecision]

Not really you just have to use your judgment. On the smaller Integrex here we have milled a triangle shape with a dovetail to match the 3 Jaws. In its case it was about .25 tall. This part was not round it was about 4" x 6"x 10" long. We put the dovetail on the small end in alignment to a bore with a thread and steps that had to be put in the part. First we put the bore in and faced the end. Than put a plug in the bore with a center. Than brought the tailstock in and finished the milling on the outside of the part.

[@scottlundy257]

Do you bid that kind of work or T&M ? big toys big money

[@EdgePrecision]

I have the enviable position that I don't have to quote work. I get work thru my old shop. They supply the material (unless I scrap a part than I supply new material or pay for it). They give me a price for my machine work if I like it I take the job. If I don't we may renegotiate a new one or I pass on the job. All I do is supply my own tooling and do the machine work. They deal with the customer, quality and outside processes. On this particular job the material is very expensive and the customers quality specifications are very strict. Basically there can be no errors so I have to be carful. That's why the setup has to be done right.

[@scottlundy257]

I think there is no question on the quality of you work. Top notch

[@samterian7694]

music to my ears bagpipes maybe?

[@stevehowe9677]

What material are the jaws? 1025'ish?

[@driftlovebitches]

that was super cool to see this done never tought that lol

[@meocats]

do you do any more machining at home or are you just working on the mazak there at work?

[@EdgePrecision]

My house was flooded in Houston. It it still being repaired. I have been living in my son in laws house all this time. When I get back I will continue the projects in the garage. Thanks.

[@Bodi2000]

Old video and prob too late but a couple of dumb questions... how do you indicate the jaws on that scrap? I see ot isn't critical but should be close to centred. And how close does the jaw dovetail diameter need to match the part dovetail diameter, or is it just a bit larger?

[@EdgePrecision]

No question is to late. If I understand your question. I just indicated the jaws on the inside of the jaw faces with a 1" travel indicator. They were chucked onto the OD of the round stock this was good enough because I will be turning the jaws. Because this was a 4-Jaw chuck this was necessary. normally on a hydraulic 3-Jaw chuck you just put the jaws in the same serration and chuck on to something like a disk and bore the jaws. As to the accuracy necessary on the dovetail's diameter it doesn't have to be real close I would say + - .005 would be good enough. I didn't even measure it because the bars offset was already set. Because the jaws only cover a small percentage of the OD they would have to be way off not to work. But if you were off I suppose it would be tighter to be a little small than large. That way each jaw would have at least two points of contact instead of just one. Thanks.

[@alexgregg2466]

@EDGEPRECISION do you think this technique would be stable enough to hold some 500mm long 125mm diameter 6AL-4V and then inserted drill (50mm dia) and bore 200mm deep in it?

[@EdgePrecision]

You don't have a spindle bore large enough for 125mm? Yes it probably would but that depends on how good you machines spindle is. For boring the hole that far out at the end of the 500mm part. It would be better to have it also on a steady rest because that isn't that big in diameter for its length. for just the drilling it would be fine.

[@alexgregg2466]

@@EdgePrecision exactly the problem I have, our biggest spindle bore is 120mm 😭

[@shotgunreloader4964]

Do the parts come with the dovetail machined or do you do that yourself, if so seems harder to get right.

[@EdgePrecision]

Shotgun Reloader I have to machine it on the raw stock. In this case the diameter is not critical because I am using a manual four jaw chuck. The only thing that needs to be good is the angle to match the jaws.

[@shotgunreloader4964]

Thanks for the reply

[@billyc2572]

Inconel???? What are those parts for???

[@bhleblanc]

Why are dovetail jaws so boring? Video was actually interesting.

[@EdgePrecision]

The title refers to the actual machining operation.

[@bhleblanc]

@@EdgePrecision Thank you

[@trolltv1282]

Which cam are you using?

[@EdgePrecision]

TrollTv I use Esprit Cam.

[@ianbresnahan1808]

What kind of material are the jaws made out of?

[@EdgePrecision]

I think they make them out of 1018 cold rolled steel.

[@ianbresnahan1808]

Is that fairly standard across most jobs?

[@EdgePrecision]

I don't usually make the jaws. I just buy them. But I would use steel jaws most of the time on the Mazak. On my little Haas in the garage I have use both steel and aluminum jaws as well as aluminum pie jaws. Normally on the Mazak a job will start in the hard serrated jaws than be held in soft jaws.

[@ianbresnahan1808]

Thank you Peter 💪🏼

[@LuisRamos-zn3ml]

Hello I have a question, do get any kind of chatter on the I.D work with this kind of connection on say like a 30 in long part?

[@EdgePrecision]

That would depend on the diameter of the part. On a part that long I would probably use the steady rest.

[@erniedelmonico9576]

What is the size of the plug?

[@EdgePrecision]

If you are referring to the plug the jaws a re chucked on to. I made this video quite a while ago. But if I remember it was around 5.0" in diameter. The face mill I'm using to rough some of it is 3.0" in diameter. So you can kind-of compare it's size to the plug.

[@宫超越]

What software programming do you use?

[@EdgePrecision]

I use Esprit Cam for the programming of my machines.

[@宫超越]

Thank you, good luck!

[@cliffordarrow6557]

about how much do one of those iconel slugs weigh?

[@EdgePrecision]

If memory serves me around 350 lbs.

[@leichen5474]

你这样的四爪卡盘 和卡爪哪里能买到

[@EdgePrecision]

对于你我不能说。 抱歉。 我从当地的工具供应商那里购买了我的。

[@punishr36]

How did you check that the part was in the chuck square?

[@EdgePrecision]

If I understand your question. When you indicate the part if it is running true at the chuck and also at the end away from the chuck it will be square. You can also run the indicator up and down the part in the Z axis to check also. This would be necessary if you were intentionally running a part off center.

[@punishr36]

I saw you indicate at the chuck but I never say you actually indicate the other end. You did strike the part to show that it was not moving being fixed. I thought you were gong to rotate the part at the end to see squareness but then again the O.D. was stock. Based on how you had it held in the 4 jaw it wouldn't give you any adjustment regardless. Sounded real solid.

[@EdgePrecision]

In this case there was quit a bit of stock coming off the OD. So if there was some runout out at the end it wasn’t critical. When I machined the dovetail in the stock I had a turned area close to the chuck. When I hit the part with the hammer. I was showing how difficult to impossible, because of the dovetail connection it was to move the part.

[@garyc5483]

Great machining. Not so great spelling. Dovetial :-) regards

[@EdgePrecision]

You are correct I am the worlds worst speller. Out of over 5000 views you are the first to comment on this. I guess everyone else was just being nice or understanding. Thanks.