Bottom End Assembly - 500HP 1.6L Forged Miata Engine Build Pt.1

[@throttlebuddies0]

Few things to note just for maybe next time. When installing main studs, it is recommended, to get the block line-hohned because of the higher torque of the studs and the potential deforming of the caps. Also i have seen it is advised to put some assembly lube under the bearings Next thing is dont hit the rod bolts with a hammer, it can heavily distort the metal or the threads When tightening rod bolts i would always recommend using a stretch gauge, because the torque on the instructions dont always correlate with the stretch that the bolts have to have after tightening (should be 0.1-0.15mm) and thats one really important thing. Also pro tip: When tightening anything with torque, always do it in one fluid motion and do no not let off because the torque of breaking a "stopped" bolt loose can be much greater than the torque applied while spinning. Though your engine should be fine like this, these are still some tips ive learned through a few friends and Videos from realstreet for example, they have really neat tricks in their videos for engine building, that not many people talk to. Also might not have followed every one of those rules in my engine build since i just gained that knowledge in the last few months :)

[@revreign]

I really appreciate these tips! A couple questions I have though. Wouldn't lubing the backside of bearings increase the likelihood of a spun bearing? How would you reccomend separating the rod cap from the rod? I believe I saw that socket and hammer technique on a forum so I used it. I couldn't think of a better way. Also I torqued, instead of stretch gauged the rod bolts as I believe that's what Greg Peters did in his 500hp build. I asked a local engine builder if he uses a stretch gauge, he said they just torque them to spec.

[@throttlebuddies0]

@@revreign No the bearings wont spin because they have a high pre tension from bolting the main caps down aswell as the locating tabs. the lube is mainly for pushing out any resiual debris you could also just use oil that works even better. Just remove the bolts and use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the tops to get them off. should be enough they are not that tight, I was able to get them off by hand and just wiggling them on my rods The thing with the stretch gauge is that this is the main spec that is offered by ARP on those bolts. On most bolts its fine but especially on my 1.8t build i had a MASSIVE difference of about 30nm. i had to torque the rod bolts around 30 percent more than specced on my miata rods it was fine and the spec was on point. If they are not within spec. i have seen engines being damaged by it and the bolts getting loose especially in the 1.8t world so i just tend to recommend it. if you want to, you can also message me on instagram if you have any further questions also reguarding the head, since there is a lot of important info on that aswell that you have to look out for

[@GardenRyb]

This build finna be lit 🦾

[@reptilez13]

Hey man, love the vid but ya gotta learn your autofocus lol. Theres ways to either have it focus better automatically or manually set it etc. look forward to the build!

[@revreign]

Yeah I'll fs look into it. I realized it was a problem while editing these videos too. The problem stems from how shallow the depth of feild is on this lens. It's nice for the blury background but it's very picky about refocusing all the time

[@groovs5607]

Yo bro, awesome video! very underrated channel! Hey, could you make a video on how to tap the oil pan for turbo? What you used?? Plzzz

[@revreign]

Absolutely. I know it can be very scary, especially doing it while the engine is still in but it isn't difficult

[@revreign]

However, since I have the engine pulled I'm not sure how accurate of a video I can do since I'll be doing it with the pan outside of the car

[@BoostedNDMiata]

500 hp 1.9l is done, just waiting on the RX7 tranny to be finished.

[@SteveP-ys8tw]

Does an rx7 transmission directly bolt on to Miata/MX5 block? What clutch do you use?

[@myster__e]

I’ve been following this series from the start and am wondering what your plan is for the final stage of this build. As far as I know, the stock 5/6 speeds are good for 350 WHP, anything more and you’re asking for trouble. Do you plan on going ZF or tremec?

[@revreign]

right now, the idea is to go for an RX7 Turbo 2 drivetrain for the final stage. Thanks for following my build

[@casimirparker2390]

Are you sure the 5 speed can take 350? Best I can find on it says about 270 but if it can take more I need to move my goals😂

[@PatrikHruska-mw1ot]

The top of the piston looks a little sus, btw did you get your piston rings measured?

[@revreign]

Wdym by looking a little sus? Also yeah I gapped the rings to spec

[@elcascoviejo5347]

what pisto is?

[@revreign]

The pistons are Supertech 78.5mm 8.5:1