Brake Problem - Kawasaki Z900

[@dandownunder5825]

Grind half the brake pad down.

[@thomasmiller8000]

A bit of copper grease would sort that lol

[@jeffreysharp9722]

tired comment

[@goinhot9133]

Sounds normal, that’s just the copper grease getting up to temperature. Takes a few heat cycles to seat the grease.

[@keithwilliamsWilf]

Matt, if your forks are bottoming out, is there no Pre-load adjustment? I am sure there is. Stiffen the sping a bit and put a tie wrap round the leg to make sure you are using as much of the travel at extreme braking ......do a stoppie. Then see if the compression and rebound damping needs adjusting, they may not. I always make a note of the origlnal settings as a base because you can tie yourself in knots trying sort out suspension so you can always go back to the beggining and start again. Also, bear in mind adjustment to the front will effect the rear to some extent so the whole area can become a mine field and it is a bit of a black art.

[@dirtygarageguy]

That's not what preload is or does.

[@keithwilliamsWilf]

@@dirtygarageguy My Understanding is that Pre Load is the tension on the spring, if it set too soft it will bottom out. Your weight, the weight of your bike and/or your style of riding will effect the setting of your pre-load Damping controls the speed that the spring works whether it be on compression or rebound

[@dirtygarageguy]

Pre load is to offset the force of the rider due to weight. Spring rates are constant for linear springs, so bottoming out in because of rider weight * braking acceleration. More preload just means you have less compression because the spring total load is fixed

[@lordmcted]

if only i could like a vid more than once, cos this one is gold, absolute gold

[@prdoohan]

22:33 C'mon Man, we know you are looking for an excuse to fit low friction ceramic bearings!

[@Surestick88]

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that keeps old toothbrushes for cleaning things like Matt does.

[@varmintmaster]

Can never think to keep old tooth brushes, just use the wife's and put it back before it notices

[@andrewrobotham2913]

Hi Matt, a very good mechanic told me that the difference between upper and lower level marks for brake fluid on master cylinder reservoir is the serviceable life of your brake pads, when it approaches lower mark its time to replace pads, if you top it up when you come to replace pads and push pistons back there is to much fluid for the reservoir to hold, over the years I have found this to be accurate for both cars and bikes, just a thought, luv the channel by the way.

[@dirtygarageguy]

"when it approaches lower mark its time to replace pads," - I'll do another video on this - the reason why this is so full is the ABS system.

[@garyhicks789]

Got to do my rear brake this week, just replace the pads (hopefully) & fronts soonish, this helped get me into thinking/reminding me about it, cheerz

[@tomkirby7170]

I love your reasoning for not putting new pads in straight away,it never would have accrued to me and I'd have put in the new set. See still learning cheers☺

[@kellyjackson7889]

occurred accrued means to gain over time positive or negative e.g experience or physical damage

[@JlerchTampa]

I imagine you know the answer by now, however I would postulate that the caliper piston is near the end of the travel (worn pads / rotor). With the caliper pistons near the end of travel they are more likely to become ever so slightly miss-aligned in the bore making them 'stick' then drag the pad and cause the noise. Throw new pads on, the pistons go back to their start travel and the problem goes away (or not) /s

[@dirtygarageguy]

"I would postulate that the caliper piston is near the end of the travel " - LOL no where near - but it's probably hard to tell from the video. I've found what it is - video coming soon

[@WalkerKlondyke]

Gonna have to do something similar tomorrow. I've begun to feel a slight, rythmic tapping through the bars, only while cruising in 6th gear. And of course I did tires, sprocket, chain and braided brake lines just a couple months ago. So, I'm left wondering if it was something I did or coincidentally a new issue. I'm anticipating hours of troubleshooting...

[@decab8292]

I would have checked the disk first! I have had loose rivets on a disk before on an old bike I picked up. Sounded like a warped disk, needless to say I just replaced the disk immediately, I had only ridden it around the block fortunately. Pistons not returning correctly is a common problem. For me I like to sort brakes and servicing in mid autumn saves me from freezing my bit off in the bad weather. And hopefully get through till spring.

[@decab8292]

Tyre pressure on the rim. MT 🧐 That’s military training for the incompetent drivers 😂

[@Robnoxious77]

Probably unrelated, but I’m reminded of a recent Dave Moss Tuning video talking about how to remove and install a front wheel when you have twin discs. Specifically the order of bolting things up to make sure everything is aligned properly. Something to do with calipers not grabbing in funny angles etc.

[@dirtygarageguy]

This is what floating discs are for

[@theonlynorton]

That's to do with radial mounted calipers. These are not so there is no alignment to be done.

[@Robnoxious77]

yeah the z900 has axially mounted calipers, my z900rs is radially mounted, hence my interest.

[@jamesdougan8789]

maybe reduce the fork oil air gap by a few mm (more oil) it will make it harder at the bottom of the stroke as a cheap easy mod cheers james D

[@Nerezza1]

I absolutely hate working on brakes, especially on cars. Feels great when it's done though.

[@JlerchTampa]

08:13 Did everyone else lean their own head to the side to get a better look at the brake retainer pin too?

[@sabamacx]

Without watching the full thing, it sounds like a hub bearing that has gone out of tolerance on one side. Had the same issue with disc brake rub on a bicycle.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Nope - 21:16

[@sabamacx]

@@dirtygarageguy Let me be more clear. A bearing going out of tolerance on one side doesn't present as if its failing. Rather what happens is that the tiniest bit of play becomes multiplied by the time you're a distance away from the centre of rotation. Alternatively, the hub may be starting to fail, giving rise to the play which presents as brake rub. Happy to be told I'm full of shit --- just guessing what may have happened based on a similar failure I had a on bicycle.

[@dirtygarageguy]

"Alternatively, the hub may be starting to fail, giving rise to the play which presents as brake rub." - after 6k miles? I get what you're saying but this happened all at once. No noise yesterday then suddenly the ringing started after medium braking. This is why I 'think' it's the scratching on the pad material. We'll find out when I replace the pads. After I did this, the noise has decreased by about 50%+ - so by removing the pads and cleaning/resetting their position something has happened

[@sabamacx]

@@dirtygarageguy Totally agree, 6k miles for wheel bearings is far too early. Looking forward to seeing where this goes.

[@robstone370]

Mat is it good idea to use silicone grease / spray on the pistons / seals before fitting the pads ? To help protect the rubber seals so they last longer ?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yep - but i'd apply grease and not the spray

[@gleddyvrudd]

Wtih an abba stand you dont need to wrry about it falling off the stand, even better with the front lift kit I would never go back to paddock stands

[@dirtygarageguy]

abba stands are for cunts

[@50p-Racing]

Did I need two and a half minutes of wind noise through my computer speakers? Did I fuck! 15 seconds would have been enough.

[@leuvenlife]

always amazed at how fast bikes corrode in the UK.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Well its a combination of that and cheaping out on the plating

[@jediknight1294]

Fuck ton of salt Used on the roads for a chunk of. The year.

[@ooohry]

Isaac vs one of those contrived primary school mathematics problems. If Matt had .5 watermelons and ate .002, how many does he have now

[@raydavison2972]

Matt, nothing to do with the brakes but your comment about maxing out the rebound damping on the forks. A bit hard to tell but looking at the front tyre it doesn't look like a shortage of rebound damping, more like too much if anything, maybe you need more compression instead? A close up (Good focus) shot of the tyre tread would help.

[@dirtygarageguy]

No - it's definately the rebound - don't get me wrong the springs could be stiffer

[@raydavison2972]

@@dirtygarageguy Doesn't look like it me, the tyres always tell the story but if you're sure it's you that's riding it. I wasn't meaning the springs by the way, meant compression damping.

[@dirtygarageguy]

The tyre looks like that because of the track day I just did. It's the the edges remaining of the 'rough stuff'

[@raydavison2972]

@@dirtygarageguy It's not the debris field on the tyre I was referring to it's the wear pattern on the tread that indicates rebound damping control (Or lack of it)

[@JT-et7ui]

Shouldn’t the brakes rub a bit with floating discs? Been told numerous times that it’s normal.

[@dirtygarageguy]

It is - but this is excessive - the recording didn't do it justice

[@Marr_SC]

I know you removed the calipers here to clean everything out, but are the windowed calipers designed that way so that you can change the pads without removing the calipers? That is, could you remove the pin and the spring; then pull the old pads out of the back "window"?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yes they are, but I wanted to check the calipers themselves - this method will be for changing the pads - which is a seperate video

[@Matt-we7si]

Hey Matt, so out of interest , how often are you going to change the oil on the z900 , twice a year ? every 5000miles? or just whenever you decide? I remember you did a video on it but dont think you mentioned how often you will change it on this. I chage my engine oil every 3-4k miles

[@dirtygarageguy]

every 5000miles-ish - sometimes before

[@peromo9397]

With regards to the brake pad 'bias'. Is there a reason why they can not be swapped around and re-bedded to even out the wear?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Well they're pretty much the same and they're getting replaced. To swap them over they really need to have the same 'lean' or taper to them - which isn't possible - unless you flip the pads - The 'bias' in these pads is fucking nothing - what do you want, perfection? LOL

[@stephenmcqueen4029]

Be good to see a one year review of the bike, your own money been spent, if you think it’s value for money, what service costs you, etc.

[@dirtygarageguy]

All the costs are already being counted and stuck in a spreadsheet

[@paullee6663]

Great video, learnt a lot! Do you use the tyre pressures recommended by the bike manufacturer, or the ones by the tyre manufacturer. I've noticed sometimes they don't match, sometimes by quite a bit.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Always the bike manufacturer. The tyre pressure is MAX for those tyres - they don't know what bke it's going to be fitted to. The bike manufacturers obviously do. Weight, weight distribution, frame geometry etc all matter and the tyres that are chosen require the tyre pressure to be 'x'

[@paullee6663]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I knew about the 'max' pressures on the tyre, I meant the tyre manufacturers pressures recommended for your particular bike, but you answered my question anyway! Good spot by Isacc I thought realizing that piece of the pad could have been trapped in the caliper.

[@vonsauerkraut]

matt and isaac the batman and robin of youtube

[@nothanks3462]

Pinky and the Brain.

[@vonsauerkraut]

@@nothanks3462 stinky and brain

[@leminako]

Hi Matt, Got a question that's in a way "somewhat" related to this issue. You've put a dial indicator on your disc to check for runout. On my bike {triumph bonneville } i noticed while doing routine brake Maintenance that my front brake also drags a bit{ normal drag} but on 1 place more. Also when i look sideways to the rim and spin the wheel i noticed that the rim{cast} isn't running true. On one spot its bend. Not much barely i can see it with the naked eye. I now the specs for run out are 0.6mm.but i don't have a dial indicator to check the run out off the rim. My question about this is how this affects in any way riding the bike? Is this safety issue would this create wheel hop? Do i need to buy a new wheel if I'm out off the 0.6mm run out? What's your take on this? Can this be just by hitting a serious puthole or could this be a bearing issue although i don't feel any play in the bearing. Thanks for your time. Regards Dieter

[@dirtygarageguy]

"On one spot its bend. Not much barely i can see it with the naked eye. I now the specs for run out are 0.6mm.but i don't have a dial indicator to check the run out off the rim." - due to the nature of casting the rim will never be perfect. Even if you had a DTI, you'd need a spec for the run out of the rim......... "Is this safety issue would this create wheel hop? Do i need to buy a new wheel if I'm out off the 0.6mm run out? What's your take on this?" - You'd have to ask and show it to Triumph. "Can this be just by hitting a serious puthole or could this be a bearing issue although i don't feel any play in the bearing" - it could have always been there unless you notice a recent change. Like I said - and I know this probably won't help that much but Triumph have to make that call.

[@leminako]

Thanks for the quick reply, Although the rim is cast the sides are turned on a lathe so i don't think that only one spot could be turned more or less deep. So it's probably caused by myself. I wanted some Reassuring from someone that has knowledge off This stuff what the consequences could be.. But i understand that i should talk to Triumph or the triumph garage where i bought my bike. I'm no expert far from it but the shop manager and his mechanic are both dickheads. They would sell me a new rim {600€}for sure even if it's not needed

[@dirtygarageguy]

Well it depends how bad it is. If you give me an actual number then that's something - If you say you can hardly see it then I wouldn't worry. What you can do is rig up a pointer very close to the rim and then spin the wheel - if you can video it.

[@leminako]

I try to get something on video and or buy a dial indicator to get accurate number. I'll get back to you with this issue. Thanks again Matt.

[@leminako]

Hi Matt, I finally made a video with a dial indicator that shows the run out of my front rim. Around 0.3mm off run out { dial indicator is 0.01 scale}. The video Also points out that most of The runout is located at one spot. It's not 360 degrees equal { I mean the low spot aint 180 degrees away from the high spot}. Which means it more a damaged spot than axial runout? If you like I can send you the video, but to which email address can I send it? Can you give my your take on this please. Much appreciated. Thanks

[@MrCmeehan]

Matt, what torque wrench are you using, and whats the range on it?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Video coming real soon

[@ThePtr83]

Nice jobby, but you should push the pistons out a bit before cleaning.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Why? Below that point they're inside the seal - no point in pushing shit into the pistons

[@aspectcarl]

What a team 👍

[@Jordan-rs8yi]

when was the last time you cleaned and serviced the brakes?

[@DistinctOgre]

How about paint fucker upper, as opposed to stripper?

[@aspectcarl]

At 1:07 full reheat engaged ❤️

[@CajunGreenMan]

We're told not to let the calipers hang, to suspend them by something. But no one seems to know WHY! What's up with that, please? Video and audio went out of sync about the time of the first use of the torque wrench. Not a big deal, just an FYI. Keep up the great work!

[@dirtygarageguy]

"We're told not to let the calipers hang, to suspend them by something. But no one seems to know WHY! What's up with that, please?" - additional stress on the hoses - they're not ment to take tensile stress - althought the weight of the caliper isn't near enough to do and permanent damage. It's more so you don't knock them about into the wheel etc

[@CajunGreenMan]

@@dirtygarageguy thanks!

[@chrisktm2010]

I was told not to leave them hanging as 99% of he time there in the way. People tend to put them up out the way by balancing them on something then accidentally knock them of and its the force on the pipe/unions that take a jerk and can cause damage that’s not seen and can fail at a later date. I know what I mean just hard to explain.

[@OperatorKerri]

I was always told not to fuck about with brake pads without gloves and preferably a mask because the dust is carcinogenic, is this just some old wives tale/not applicable to modern pads?

[@stuckintheeighties487]

Never check a micrometer for zero without cleaning the anvils. Measure a piece of paper and gently pull it through. Then set zero.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Lmao. Wow.

[@Electrowave]

Sounds like you've got a rocket motor stuck up the exhaust! That wind is a pain.

[@stefanbrown8176]

is there any play in the disks themselves ?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Play? Do you mean side to side? - Then no

[@garyclarke5613]

hi matt 2 things to ask 1 trying to become a patreon it just buffeting tried it on work pc now tried it on my home mac any idea and secondly what are the causes of one caliper on the front pistons drift back so get soft leaver cheers keep it going

[@mrdarn]

Warped disk will push a pad back enough to cause a soft feel on the first pump. Happen all the time? Or only once in a while? Ive had it happen after a "light front" when I've been pressing on, and the front has raised, then shook its head when I've put it down. Thats normal. If it's all the time, more likely to be a miss alignment somewhere pushing the pistons back

[@dirtygarageguy]

"hi matt 2 things to ask 1 trying to become a patreon it just buffeting tried it on work pc now tried it on my home mac any idea" - nope as to any ideas - what is it doing/not doing?

[@mrdarn]

Theres a brand new bottle of dot 4... "Shakes bottle furiously" Allright dell?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Don't start with that bullshit LOL Shaking the bottle traps air.......

[@GYUx2]

I didn't hear nothing. But here is the solution Pal! Get the ixil SUPER XTREME SX1 exhaust, and you won't hear sh#t any more!😉

[@northerner1374]

Launch 🚀 I think that was your problem Matt 😂

[@jakubsetkowski]

Coper grease spread it like butter on biscuit Mat, and that will fix it 😂

[@Adv_Charlie]

Should have got Isaac to clean the pads he loves getting his hands dirty

[@TheWilsdon]

Issac would have died if his hands got that grubby

[@phelanpawly2507]

Them pads look nasty for 6000 miles. I just replaced my second set of fronts in my zx6r at 14000. Originals did 12000. Although they are different configuration and radial mount calipers , I’d be pretty concerned at the friction material wear rate on yours. Get some nice sintered EBC ones for fucks sake 👍

[@dirtygarageguy]

"I’d be pretty concerned at the friction material wear rate on yours." - Well maybe you ride like a pussy? Who knows...... LOL

[@Surestick88]

It probably depends when and where you ride. Matt said he rode through the winter, wet riding increases pad wear from road grit.

[@robzz9002]

@surestick88 I’ve got the same bike as Matt and ride all year round. I’m currently on just under 11,500 miles on the stock pads and they’ve still got life in them. @The workshop it’s not riding like a pussy, brakes are for pussies lol.

[@bikerguychris33]

Are break problems common with Z900's? Read some of the other comments, I can't believe breaks aren't covered under warranty, that's awful.

[@stixnicky]

lovely hoonings :) thats my 2 pence

[@apm136]

disks should last another 12.5k (ball park)

you hear that issac? your bike has been rattle canned lol

[@chrisdavidson911]

four coils?

[@jeffreysharp9722]

terrible use of the torque wrench on that padpin mat

[@dirtygarageguy]

Say what?

[@MotoGoato]

Wait ..... the solution is not far off.... I hear the sound of a useless twat approaching on a highly tuned Grom ... stupid fast!! ..... and he's bringing his angle grinder ..... oh no!! ... he's crashed 😉

[@gutserker]

What is "agro-scopic"? Do you mean hygroscopic?

[@dirtygarageguy]

hygroscopic - yes, that was the joke

[@brabhamfreaman166]

Pffff…wind in the tyres?

[@mrpantur7280]

Put some toothpaste on them that's what I do and I've been working on bikes for 187 years !!!!

[@sidwainhouse]

So in essence you’re saying chamfer the pads and smother them in copper slip? Jobs a fish.

[@roymichaeldeanable]

No Loktite....finally a bit of common sense....

[@hellishgrin4604]

Nah... That’s just micro-chamfering!

[@gburls]

Hey Matt,your wrong about the tire pressures. You said you take comments when you're wrong,so here's the thing. When you weigh alot and put weight back on the wheel,tire pressure goes down,you're not "squeezing" the tire. In fact,when you put excessive weight on a tire,the patch on the ground increases,therefore creating a larger volume,lowering the pressure. Just wanted you to know so Delbullocks doesnt get to you,lol

[@jediknight1294]

So why do. You reduce The pressure with increased load.

[@gburls]

@@jediknight1294 you dont. You increase pressure with more weight. Max tire pressure is rated for max load. Fucking hell,its written on the tire,"max psi at max load of ?" The max pressure is higher at the max load. Sport bike tires are of course ment for other than carrying trailer loads,so you adjust accordingly to riders and riding style. But if you air a tire while on jacks,bring it down, with,for the sake of this discussion, a max load,the side wall flexes and the contact patch on the ground becomes greater(or wider) thus,increasing the the amount of volume inside,pressure goes down,so you need to add air to match the load you have put on it.

[@grahamparr4710]

I see that you decry the current trend of wearing marigolds.

[@nothanks3462]

Matt likes his hands fairy soft.

[@gislemark79]

No warranty?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Not on brakes or tyres unless it's the ABS system

[@gislemark79]

@@dirtygarageguy Ok

[@KevinStefferDk]

Be careful with all that brake dust and your compressed air. Better to use brake cleaner and void all the dust. It is dangerous for your lungs 👍

[@phelanpawly2507]

Asbestos was outlawed in 2000. It just gives you a nasty cough now 🙄

[@dirtygarageguy]

Dude - I smoke

[@richiektm]

Is the bike still under warranty

[@dirtygarageguy]

not for brakes and tyres only if the abs system fucks up

[@renolizing]

Nice one, shimming pads with toothbrush!

[@dirtygarageguy]

"shimming"?

[@renolizing]

@@dirtygarageguy sorry - grinding

[@globalfallout7249]

sounds like a water cooled circular saw chomping through concrete

[@adivarso8175]

Had to go to kawasaki to have the abs brakes bled...

[@raydavison2972]

Why?

[@adivarso8175]

@@raydavison2972 To get all the fluid out and remove any trapped air from the abs block they connect a service tool to make it pulse.

[@raydavison2972]

@@adivarso8175 Interesting, I've never had an ABS bike but on the car the bleeding procedure is no different and my mate's ABS bikes don't seem to need that. I will investigate!

[@nothanks3462]

@@raydavison2972 Depends on the work you're doing and the system, newer ones can be (surprise surprise) more complex than older ones, e.g after replacing master cylinder on a 2007 octavia vrs you have to plug in and tell the abs pump to cycle to purge any air out of it. The slightest bit of air in there and the brakes become utterly shit. It seems mental to need a computer to bleed system, but I will say the original master lasted well over 200,000 miles and brakes were still incredible, only replaced due to leak found on mot.

[@adivarso8175]

@@nothanks3462 Yes you're right VCDS saves the day!!!

[@daveross7]

You sure you've not swopped the motor for an RR Olympus.

[@Robnoxious77]

lol the struggle is real

[@raywalsh5822]

i can hear jack shit.sounded like a boeing 737 taking off

[@shaun9107]

The hardest fix is ....., WTF that noise ?

[@Addy29plus5]

Copper grease and angle grinder lol 😂

[@beachboardfan9544]

22:34 Welllllll when you weight 300lbs...

[@motominx7507]

Bread&Butter ,, Bitch please , why so rude?

[@dirtygarageguy]

I don't weigh 300 lbs......

[@beachboardfan9544]

Amateur! You should have said: it's mostly cock weight!

[@DistinctOgre]

@@beachboardfan9544 Hell yeah! Lmao.

[@beachboardfan9544]

🙃 for the aussie

[@LugZ1981]

So many funny sound bites

[@TheScortUK]

Just chamfer most of the pad off - you'll be grand!

[@robzz9002]

You sure your maths is right on the remaining life in those discs Matt? Two different ways of working it out that I can see. Method A; 0.14mm used in 6000 miles. Divide 0.14 by 6 and you get 0.02333333mm per thousand miles. Then the remaining 0.86mm of thickness divided by 0.02333333 gives you a remaining mileage of the best part of another 37,000 miles, based on current wear rate. Method B; 1mm of available thickness divided by the 0.14mm used goes 7.14285714 times. Times that by the 6000 miles done gives you just under 43,000 miles of life, minus the 6000 miles already done gives you the same (roughly) 37,000 miles of life left. I panicked when you said you only expected a maximum of 18,000 miles out of them, have you seen the cost of replacements!!!

[@dirtygarageguy]

LOL what? How is there 0.86mm left? The disc was 5mm, now its 4.68mm - that's 0.14mm or 140um removed - and as you said that divided by 6 = 0.020um per 1000 miles. I have 0.36mm or 360um left before I hit the 4.5mm minimum (5mm - 0.14 = 4.86mm) 360um / 20um = 18 therefore 18 LEFT on the disc - which is what I say here 17:56. I say "and this should last me another 18 thousand miles" Looking at your figures you seem to think the limit is 4.00mm - it's not, it's 4.5mm. The 6k I've done , plus the 18k possible gives me a total range of 24 - 25k miles before they die. "You sure your maths is right on the remaining life in those discs Matt?" - Yes

[@robzz9002]

Lol, was the end of a long day for me and you’re right, I was working out based on a service limit of 4mm, not 4.5mm. Shit, that being the case, I better grab my micrometer later. I’m on just under 11,500 miles on my Z900, so it’ll be interesting to see how much meat is left on mine. That said, with the mileage I’m currently on I’m still on the stock front pads with life left in them, so perhaps mine haven’t worn as fast as yours. As before though, have you seen the price for a pair of OEM discs!

[@dirtygarageguy]

These are the stock pads. And all OEM discs are stupid money, and I'll be replacing them with something different when the time comes

[@maxbreemer]

Gloves dude...

[@royeastman5166]

You obviously havent a clue what your doing .you never got the angle grinder out once,Let alone a hammer or an anvil.You coulda shaved your tyres down whilst you were at it too. seriously though I would have put new pads in and possibly ended up pulling my hair out over a silly mistake.

[@raywalsh5822]

dont forget run that brush under tap before u brush yor teeth

[@remcovanvliet3018]

Go on, pour a bottle of dot4 all over your tank and put it in the sun for an afternoon, see what happens. I say you're in for a bad time.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Okie kokie - but it doesn't strip the paint like paint stripper

[@reasonsvoice8554]

@@dirtygarageguy Think a lot of people don't realise what gelcoat is.... A lot of oem fairings aren't painted as such

[@LacyK]

Fucking hilarious......"What the fuck is that ?" (spin) What IS that? (spin) "have I killed a bearing?"(spin) "The only thing I can think of..." (spin) '"Is my ABS sensor pushing against blah...that's bad" (spin) "You've gotta be kidding me (spin) (spin) "No fucking way' (spin)'"Oh, it's the dial indicator......it's so obviously not a bearing noise, it's obviously something contacting the disc SO STOP FUCKING SPINNING IT AND INVESTIGATE IT YA DICK!

[@dirtygarageguy]

Because a few more spins would kill it?

[@LacyK]

@@dirtygarageguy Well it aint doing it any good is it?....and until you know what it is that's making the noise you don't know what damage it's causing.....so as soon as you hear the noise maybe just move the wheel forward and back slightly and have a good look then.....fuck me you would have seen the DTI......

[@dirtygarageguy]

"Well it aint doing it any good is it?....and until you know what it is that's making the noise you don't know what damage it's causing....." - Seen as though I've been riding around like this for 2 days - it ain't gonna suddenly explode.

[@LacyK]

@@dirtygarageguy That noise was nothing to do with the problem you had been experiencing. You were spinning the wheel up at the beginning of the video with nothing but a bit of dragging on the pads so this 'new' noise was most likely to be something you had introduced......For someone who likes to expound best practice you don't like being picked up on stuff do ya Matt? I know someone else like that.......

[@dirtygarageguy]

Pull that tampon out of your arse - LOL Look, I was half way through a conversation, and I spun the wheel and expected there to be no sound at all, and there was. I was like 'what the fuck' - from where I was I couldn't see the indicator at all, and it was stuck to the stand. So I turned the wheel to try and work out what it was. I even put the convo into the video with Isaac about how dumb it was. But of course you've never been dumbfounded by anything before - because you're perfect. Was it something major - no. Does it matter? No. Are you a prick? Maybe? Who knows........

[@j199w]

Dude what a boring video, I can't watch sorry. What was the issue? Looking at the 19 Z900

[@dirtygarageguy]

Boring video - then asks me a question - really?

[@j199w]

@@dirtygarageguy I did, this was an entire video of jibber jabber lol

[@adivarso8175]

1

[@tomkirby7170]

Is there a competition going on that I don't know about? 😁

[@DistinctOgre]

@@tomkirby7170 Only if you agree to acknowledge it.

[@tomkirby7170]

@DistinctOgre Lol😂