Brakes won't bleed - Weak stream of brake fluid - Removing air pocket from ABS module - FIXED!

I can't get my brakes to bleed properly. I don't get any air to come out and there is a weak stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder screw on my brake caliper even after pumping the brakes a bunch. Why is this happening? I disconnected the brake line from the ABS module in order to repair the brake line. When I disconnected the fitting from the ABS module, I introduced air into the ABS module. That air pocket is not allowing me to properly bleed my brakes. I also have a soft brake pedal. I show you two methods for activating the ABS module. Once with a diagnostic tool and once with a little hill billy ingenuity. After activating the ABS module, the air pocket finally broke free and I was able to bleed my brakes properly. No more soft brake pedal!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of The Daninator, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. The Daninator assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. The Daninator recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of The Daninator, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Daninator.
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#DIY #brakeproblems #thedaninator

[@TheDaninator]

I prefer method number two, because my wallet can handle that!

[@rickjames154]

hell yes thank you for the great info I will always do this now and teach others your awesome!!!....I used it on a BMW

[@johnp1854]

Roughly how fast was the truck going for you to get the abs to active?

[@frankrightbrain]

@John P only 20 mph for me on a dirt road a mile and a half away. I activated the anti-lock system several times, parked it and waited till yesterday so my Son could be the break man for me. I bled all 4 wheel brake cylinders into a clean glass jar bleeder I made so I could collect the fluid for recycling and reduce cleanup. I bled them until all air and dirty fluid was remove and I got clean fluid in the jar. The difference was amazing. Obviously the Chevy Dealer tech that replaced all my brake lines for me didn’t “burp” the anti-lock brake pump as I had spongy brakes until yesterday. Now I have a full pedal and effortless braking.

[@frankrightbrain]

@TheDaninator the second free method worked perfectly for me. Thanks for this video.

[@TheDaninator]

@@frankrightbrain nice!!

[@451oneandonly]

you earned my subscription with this video. I've been dealing with soft spongy brakes for over a year now and after replacing my brake master cylinder 4 times , booster twice, ABS once did i still have improvement but still wasn't a normal braking. You saved me the cost of taking my car to shop tomorrow to have system flushed.. thank you for your video confirming what i suspected about the ABS needing to burped out...

[@markprince4767]

Thank you so very much. You just saved me. Had to change the exact same line on the exact same truck and had the same problem. After activation of ABS about 4 times, the front passenger bled so well that it squirted me in the eye. The other eye clearly saw victory!!!! Very informative video.

[@DELL.ACNT.]

😂

[@geofreak75]

Ok guys, I did this in a 2007 Chevy Silverado 2wd LT. I just drove it around the yard and field next door and shoved the gas pedal in several times. Took between 5 to 10 minutes to make the pedal have some resistance. Fluid came out of bleeder as normal! I couldn't believe it actually worked! Good luck, folks!

[@JeffSunnyside]

This video saved me a ton of money, I was told that the whole abs system needed replaced. Thank you Daninator!

[@teetime4254]

Found your video today while bleeding my Acura TL. Front Driver caliper wouldn't bleed. Drove that sucker to an open field did about 30-40mph slammed on breaks. Said a little prayer. And just like you said it worked!! TY so much!

[@Hunter-yc4xi]

I just repaired one of my brake lines going from the master cylinder to the ABS module on a 2001 Silverado. I just cracked the fitting loose at the ABS module and did a bleed from that point. Worked perfect! No need to bleed the brakes at the calipers!

[@TheDaninator]

That works! Excellent tip!

[@jamesportente2287]

Excellent video. I couldn’t figure out why my back brakes wouldn’t bleed. I found this video and solved the problem. Thank you.

[@bertcochran6443]

Can't you just run 12 volts to the abs motor.

[@StevePetsche-v7i]

97 Chevy venture rear breaks won't bleed have no breaks

[@frankrightbrain]

I’ve had this issue since paying our local Chevy Dealer $1,300 to replace all brake lines after one of the lines below the master cylinder rusted out. Will be doing this procedure later today. This video earned my subscription. Thanks.

[@igormoiseev5351]

Just had a same problem on 02 Sierra 1500. Replaced all the lines but the air got stuck inside the abs unit. Method #3 ROCKS! Thank you A LOT for saving me a bunch! Liked and subscribed! Keep up the amazing work man!

[@metalmaniaxx]

That's a nightmare location for the abs to be located..

[@matthewl67]

Bi-directional scan tools are awesome! I’m not familiar with the Zurich brand tools, but it looks similar to other modern scan tools I’ve played with. The one I have is an autel and does normally dealer level functions on everything I’ve run into working on my rigs over the past year or so I’ve had it. I like that they aren’t limited to one manufacturer and I’ve used it on my buddy’s rigs, (ford, Chevy, dodge, Toyota, VW, and Honda off the top of my head) and easily performed stuff like a fast learn on my Allison, programming injector flow rates (duramax) smart key programming (multiple vehicles) and a FICM flash on a 6.0 PSD. GM dealer wanted $200 for the fast learn alone. I did not spend the extra $100ish to get the wireless capability like the one in the video, but I wish I had. I’ll have to do some reading on the Zurich units. Anyone who does more than change oil and basic maintenance on obd2 vehicles could greatly increase their capabilities with a bi-directional scan tool. No-directional is the key though. Cheap scan tools (usually about $150 and less) are generally not more than code readers and I never saw the need to get one as autozone and similar stores will scan codes for free, as long as you can get the vehicle there. Bi-directional scan tools allow you to send commands to the vehicle’s computer and do things like temporarily shut down injectors and command certain functions for diagnostics that you would not normally be able to do and monitor the result. Yes, I know you can unplug injectors manually, but I’m just giving an example. You’ll have to do some research to ensure the scan tool will do the things you need, and read carefully as there is a lot of marketing wank in all of them. I contacted autel directly to ensure the $1100 tool would do a fast learn as it wasn’t clear, and even with the vin they didn’t seem positive they had one that was about $800 that did not according to my reading on forums and such. Expect to pay $800+ and the ones I looked at had a yearly subscription of $300+. Mine came with a year ‘free’, but the subscription is not required to use the tool beyond that year. It’s only necessary for vehicles and flash capabilities on vehicles newer than your current update. So keep that in mind. I avoided buying a bi-directional tool for years and intended to purchase a Chinese knockoff GM tech 2 that would only work on GM rigs of specific years as that’s most of what I work on in my spare time, and the T2 wouldn’t do what I need on the newer can bus GM trucks at that. Fortunately, two bad experiences with shady sellers led me to the Autel MS906 (I think) and it’s worked well on every vehicle I’ve used it on. I’m not paid or anything, so this isn’t an ad. There’s other brands I’m sure that would do everything I’ve needed, but I got a discount on the autel and am very happy with it. It seems there are a lot of people who don’t flush their brake fluid regularly, and a lot that do don’t usually activate the abs module to get the old hydroscopic fluid out of that unit which is important to do. I did it the same way Dan did for years though. I like squalling out the factory bleeders for speed bleeders as I’m normally working on stuff by myself and haven’t bought a power bleeder yet. Good video man, and good information. I found your channel while trying to explain this stuff to a buddy who’s not close enough for me to just do it and sent him this video.

[@billsmith2212]

There are now scan tools in the $ 700 to $ 800 range that do this . Think Tool , Top Don and X Tool D8 . There is also an X Tool that works with a phone or lap top for less , I believe the A30 Pro . These all are bi directional . Just research that it does all the tests on your vehicle and check how much updates cost . Scanner Danner recently had a 10% off code on one of these and a Toyota mechanic " The Car Care Nut " had 8% off on another .

[@julianfell666]

Do research before rushing out for one of these tablet scanners. Some have to have software activated. This can cost as much as the unit and it is only good for 2 or 3 years. Then you have to buy it again, and again. Like a computer with microsoft software. You have to buy or lease it after paying for the computer itself.

[@EarthSh1ne]

Thank you very much Daninator. Blew the rear line on my 99 Silverado and had to remove every line on the ABS to get to it. Replaced everything and got exactly the scenario in your vid. Followed your trick on driving and braking, (tearing up my country driveway, but having fun) and after about 4-5 runs of 6-7 acceleration/braking laps, I got it bled. I gotta say, the brakes feel the best since I bought it used 4 years ago and its over 300k miles~ Thanks again! You saved me a lot of expense and taught an old dog a new trick ......to pass on as you have~

[@mikemcgown6362]

I recently purchased a 2003 Blazer and the previous owner had replaced the calipers and rotors. I drove it for a couple months and had a brake line leak on the left rear. I replaced the line and couldn't get any fluid or air to bleed out. My guess was an air pocket in the ABS unit. The brake pedal is very spongy. Seeing your video gives me hope for the resolution. Thank you!

[@kierancampbell5090]

Daninator. Symptoms sound like mine. 2001 Solara. Had a bad master bypass and a brake booster leak. Replaced both and bench bleed new master. Very little fluid at all 4 Calipers. Can this be done on secure Jack stands with tires off...? And can brake clean or some other cleaner be used to flush this system first. 40 years doing brakes and NEVER experienced this symptom. Poorly treated car when I bought it and fluid is black. Fear a blockage in abs module and junction blocks. What is safe to clean out system

[@TheDaninator]

@@kierancampbell5090 this can be done on jack stands if set up safely. I don’t know about using brake cleaner. I’ve never done that. I don’t know if that’s a good idea. The soft rubber brake lines at the wheels can swell and pinch off the passage ways. May need to check those.

[@kierancampbell5090]

@@TheDaninator I disconnected the metal line from the top of the rubber brake hose at RR. Very little fluid. But did drip. Not flow. None of the 4 new calipers flow under any pressure. They drip. Fronts are are no better than rear for pressure. Pedal still weak??? I guess a master can be bad right out of the box but I just doubt it.when I bench bleed I had to use those plastic bleeder 🎉 kits with plastic nuts and Teflon tape with Clear plastic lines. Could not fill the lines with all fluid. Still had air bubbles that would not move to the master reservoir.??? Update. Found a 6 way valve on firewall. Has the abs lines to it then branch out to all 4 calipers. Look like it came from WW 2. I ll try and open them and see if fluid runs strong with out valve use and then if I have good flow replace multi valve and try again.

[@jasonmoore5986]

Thanks for the money saving advice! I used the 2nd method on my son's car hoping to prevent going to a brake shop. High risk, high reward! Thanks again!

[@Mechanicsville804]

Thank you! John 3:16 For God so loved the world that he gave his only begotten Son that whosoever believeth in Him shall not perish but have everlasting life.

[@kelvenguard]

2003 Chev Avalanche I undid All body mounts and lifted the Drivers side 6 inches and replace all 7 factory GM steel lines... for HOURS I tried everything to bleed Brake system... Truck was Mostly Running on 4 Jack stands all 4 tires removed would NOT BLEED fully.... Then this worked Turn Key ON and DISCONNECT BATTERY leave sit for an Hour Then Pump and Bleed Brakes with Truck NOT Running and Battery Disconnected Tons more Air came out of the ABS system...

[@warrenwarburtonesq.6884]

I used trick number 2 on my 2008 BMW E90, and it worked like a charm. I had to send the ABS unit to England for repair and I did not have an OBD2 scanner that could activate the ABS. This really works.

[@vishalontheline]

Did you loosen / tighten the lines on the ASC-T module or just bleed the brakes as you regularly would? Thanks!

[@warrenwarburtonesq.6884]

@@vishalontheline I replaced the ABS module and bled the brakes like normal. Then I took the E90 out to a sandlot and went crazy with it. I kept mashing the brakes over and over so the ABS module would activate over and over. Then I drove it home and bled the brakes again.

[@vishalontheline]

@@warrenwarburtonesq.6884 Thank you!

[@bigredjohnson6921]

Foxwell sells a scan tool that sucks, for around $150, but it will activate the abs module for bleeding brakes, you can hear pump run which is what you want to happen, but after that it gives you a message that it can't communicate with vehicle, as far as I am concerned it already did, my module was activated, which was what I wanted to happen

[@womanswrench]

soooo like how much room is enough room? say…. broad st in philly roughly 3 am? my dumb denali won’t bleed. none of them. back front nothing but i have a scan tool so maybe ill give that a whirl. i didn’t disconnect abs tho. just had seized calipers & collapsed flex lines on fronts. so replaced them. now nothing will bleed. idk. i’m losing my mind here. never ran the MC dry… it was dry once i disco’d lines but never pressed pedal while res was dry. might have a truck with brakes later. might give the scrap yard a truck without brakes later. thanks for the video

[@kellismith4329]

Silverrusto and fail blazer, love it !

[@malacefromthepalace5657]

😂

[@ryan2580]

Now I need a name for my Envoy like that😂😂

[@jacobrobinson175]

I'm going to try this tomorrow at a client's 2002 Chevy Tahoe that some moron put all sorts of brass connectors I took almost eight feet of kinked and shoved up brake line on top of the frame rails I got a bunch of connectors and all the old brake line that he just left in there that affects all the brake lines you pinched off three of the brake lines on purpose. And charged him $700 p**** put a new master cylinder on it out of the junkyard that was crap, the reservoir was about to fall off now I just cannot get it to bleed out fortunately it was an apartment building. I may have to go find a farmer's field.

[@PhunkBustA]

another alternative to the expensive tool can be a cheaper tool (elm 327) but there can be compatibility issues, and finding the correct software can be quiet difficult, definitely worth researching first, they can be as cheap as $20 or cheaper, and the software can be in that range or free or much more expensive it all depends

[@richardrichard5409]

To add some value to this, ensure you get every wheel to lock up at some point, to ensure all ABS valves are cycled 😎

[@stanweiler4344]

Thank you for this invaluable information. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing this information. God will richly bless you..

[@ironfistarrival]

You very much welcome !

[@mrsmith4709]

When you were driving and slamming on the breaks to activate the ABS, did you have the bleeding nipple cracked open a wee bit or closed completely? I am wondering how the air block could clear if the nipple was closed completely, because there would be nowhere for the fluid to escape to let the air out.

[@donaldpainter956]

The air escape from the abs module into your brake lines you have to bleed your brakes after you do this

[@LovenotHate130]

My sister brakes wouldn’t I change rotors, pads , calipers nothing came so than I took off the brake line and I changed it and the air came out like a dam air pump I also activated the abs mod as seen in the video that help a lot

[@andrewclemons8619]

Just bought a 150 dollar abs bleeder/obd sensor to bleed a 05 Silverado ill let you know if it works

[@jakesmith7185]

Bless you sir, 45 minutes after watching your video and a few skid marks in the local gravel patch later my wife’s van is back in commission after hours of head scratching.

[@AUDIO2AUTO]

You can buy many $100 bi directional scan tools now a days and activate the abs module. You can also turn the vehicle on and stomp on the brakes with the bleeder out and it will definitely come out. The vacuum assist brake booster helps alot.

[@taymerelane]

Would disconnecting the battery then reverse bleeding like in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmnFaaN9dtZ_gNk work since I don't have a bidirectional OBD II? I just ordered this Mityvac MV8500 kit because it can pump clean bubble free fluid fluid up from from the caliper, through the ABS module, and into the master cylinder reservoir, taking any bubbles up with it to where they can escape to air. Have you heard of this method working with ABS?

[@TheDaninator]

I hadn’t seen this before, but looks like that would work

[@saintsmc1]

I air bleed my bakes with 20# of air pressure in to the master! Works great!

[@chrismounts846]

Please explain this method

[@GoodnessaGracious]

0:45 If you have a weak stream, it may be time to have the prostate checked out by a mechanic

[@JBart812]

This is the exact same scenario I have except that I don't have enough brakes to activate the ABS system.

[@anthonyperez1954]

Wait for snow then find a parking lot

[@norain31]

Thats how its done .i watched your video and was going to suggest this if you had a differnt method .ha good job dan you saved a bunch of people lots of money !

[@briancoverstone4042]

OR... just buy a scan tool for $120 that will activate the ABS

[@a2z_farm]

Thanks wonderful information have a blessed day

[@SuperSedingAngeL-yr0]

I'm here for the beagle. Sup? 😂😂😂

[@Engineerboy100]

My yard is only 12 feet deep. I can't do that in my yard, don't have the property.

[@dannysmobiletuneup8317]

What year is that truck? I have that scanner and doesn't show me that option for bleeding the abs. Working on a 97 chevy s10.

[@TheDaninator]

My truck is an '02

[@kirbyroad7222]

I'm having the same problem, but I only changed the calipers I never unhooked the abs. I took it out on a long deserted stretch of road and I hit the brakes firmly and it finally activated the abs. Then after 4-5 cycles it started to pump up a little. I bled the front brakes again and it is perfect now.

[@gocro731]

I just did this to my 2013 Sierra 1500. It worked!!! I changed rear hubs, shoes, pistons and front rotors and pads. Bled the air, still spongey. I adjusted the shoes to react on the drum a little harder for easier braking. Took it to an industrial area, drove at speed, jumped on the brakes activating ABS about 10 times. I now have 1" of travel in the pedal!!! Solid AF brakes. Thankyou!!!

[@TheDaninator]

Well done!!

[@gocro731]

In your opinion, do i need to bleed the brakes again?

[@TheDaninator]

@@gocro731 yes, it wouldn’t hurt to bleed em again

[@tchogworks1987]

My abs module has a bleeder on it. But I’ve never bled it there. Another Ford F-250 I had the abs module went bad. Dealer only part. $350. I just took some brake line and went around the a bs module. After bypassing the abs module I had better brakes than ever. I have a 30 foot gooseneck I pulled behind that truck with a gvw of 14,000 lbs that the electric brakes never did work. The truck brakes was so good and stopped the trailer loaded so well I never did fix the trailer brakes. I pulled a John Deere 450 dozer everywhere with that truck and trailer. I believe those abs take away from your braking power. They definitely regulate how much pressure you can push on your brake pads and shoes if you’ve got them on the back. To high of pressure opens a valve inside the module and letting fluid pressure bypass the lines going to the wheels. . I wonder if this guy ever bleed his brakes with a mighty vac? I’d say they sucks the air out of a abs module. Plus you don’t blow fluid everywhere. That’s the only way I can bleed brakes in my shop . The only way to bleed motorcycle and atv brakes. Pull the bleeder out clean it up, inside and out. Rub thick grease around the threads . Use a clear vinyl hose ( to see when no more air is coming out of the system) on the bleeder to the catch base on the mighty vac. Pump it up. I believe they suck the air out of the abs module. I’ve never had a customer return or say anything after replacing lines caliber and other brake parts. Around $40 at Harbor Freight for a mighty vac. Many uses around the shop. Heck of a lot better than the bottle and hose crap on the snap-on truck for $70 for the small one. Matter of fact I know the Mighty Vac will suck any air in a abs module out. I replaced a front module about 6 months ago on a 2017 Ultra Limited. Over the years we’ve rebuild many front caliber off bikes with abs system. We’ve never had any problem bleeding any that I can remember

[@ishnifusmeadle]

I just had to drop 880(2weeks pay)on fixing abs issue. Threw codes for bad pump shorts and some other module code (ive forgotten now). Managed to secure a used unit from the scrap yard, salvage enough hardware between the old n used units, reflowed the module solder, sealed, swapped pumps, did a bunch of line repairs/splices (most of this in the freezing rain), and despite bleeding, then country boy bleeding the abs couldnt get it working right (and no my master cylinder never ran dry, i plugged the lines). Due to not having more time (and ot being my sole vehicle) had to take to mechanic......a dealership no less. Because none of the shop mechanics had the software to reprogram a new module....however at least its done now.....

[@echojensen1106]

My brakes completely locked up, making RPM's scream and transmission not work, while on a cross country road trip, alone. They would release after sitting and cooling a while, then lock up again. Been working on vehicles my whole life and refuse to take to a shop. Little did I know that my stubbornness would lead me to being broke down on the side of the Arizona road for 2 weeks. Started checking fuses, then wheel speed sensors. Tested abs control module by unplugging it, still locked up. Called a brake shop that said it's the master cylinder. Changed it out. Did a bench bleed on my tailgate, that was fun! Along with bleeding brakes by myself... figuring it all out as I go. I was ready to push it if the edge of the grand canyon if this didn't work. It worked for about 300 miles and starred locking up again. I would pull over and crack the lines on master and carry on my way till getting home. They finally got so bad all I could do is get 10 feet down the road. I then changed out the brake hoses. Bled and bled and bled again. No pedal whatsoever. Did a reset on the proportioning valve and still wouldn't bleed. I really don't want to change that! But at this point that's all that's left unless this trick works... any advice???

[@rickrose2235]

I had this same problem. Old brake fluid can boil so first change brake fluid out completely with new brake fluid. Second old rubber brake lines can break down internally so change those out with new lines. Third caliper pistons can sieze in there bore so check that they can be compressed with a large C-Clamp. Forth brake pads can seize up on there slides and pins so make sure there sliding freely (you can wire brush the brake pads slides and clean and regrease the caliper pins). Fiveth your caliper pistons can be seized so you can replace then with rebuilt or new units. I would start going down this list and your problem has to be one of these. Good luck

[@stickit2theman1]

There's a reference to Elf in this video, instant fave

[@leeroyexcavator9149]

Have a 05 2500Hd with this problem! Gonna try the slide method because Im not gonna spend 1200.00 on a machine for one time use.

[@ijonnypro]

Literally the video I’ve been looking for! Seriously, thanks! Very informative 👍🏻

[@phabel59]

This totally works, I spent a sleepless night before finding this clip. When I turn out of my driveway the main road is to the left, and to the right is half a mile of farm track, ideal for in line skidding. After doing intermittent hard braking to the farm and back I bled both front brakes and car was sorted. Thanks for the money saving tip, even works in the UK.

[@elliottsallee5418]

Stupid question. Can you put the vehicle on jack stand and remove wheels and gas it then slam on breaks and get same effect? I replaced all brake lines and have no resistance when pumping brakes. So im assuming air pocket in abs due to i replaced all brake lines on truck.

[@user-di7mb1un1e]

did it work?

[@OVERALL_PAUL]

This did the trick on my buddy's 2010 Malibu and saved us a bundle

[@johannriedlberger4390]

I got my trucks cab changed because the old one was rusty. Since I got it back the brakes feel quite spongy. Today I made already a brake bleeder that works with compressed air. I will follow procedure #2 and bleed it as often as it feels right.

[@roberttidwell3066]

Autel scan tool with ABS automated bleed. Is only $200

[@charlesl6925]

You saved my brothers ass…… and mine because I am the one working on his shot box 😂 thanks man

[@hitemwhereithurts71]

? If the truck is on jack stands will method number two work

[@TheDaninator]

That should work as well, but obviously there's risk involved being up on jack stands. It's up to you. Personally, I like having all the wheels on the ground and just slamming on the brakes, but I understand that option may not be available to all DIYers.

[@crunchytacosupreme9371]

I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra the rear left brake caliper has no pressure when bleeding. I've done an ABS bleed master cylinder bleed and blee all the wheels. But very little fluid comes out from the rear left wheel. What should i look at? I've already replaced the master cylinder too.

[@danielkirkpatrick1098]

Most cars older then 2015ish usually have bleeder screws on abs it's the box after the master cylinder

[@ReubenAStern]

Did you just say "FAIL blazer" and "SCAM tool"?!

[@TM-ft1sh]

I'm having the exact same problem with my 06 dodge magnum, I had to replace a brake line that went from the master cylinder straight to the abs module, then I had to replace the master cylinder and the brake booster while trying to bleed, I've never had a brake job give me so much hell!!! Everything is back together and they're not wanting to bleed, so I'm trying the gravity bleed method and then I'm going to pump bleed and if that doesn't work then I'm using a pump canister to force bleed the brakes through the master cylinder, I've also activated the abs module several times during this process

[@Lsutton04_]

I need to just say you are a damn lifesaver. I work at a shop so me saying this is sad and embarrassing but I have been in a pinch with my secondary car which is a 2011 MKZ that I just had a driver front caliper put on. It gravity bled but as soon as I bled all the other three calipers it didn’t want to bring fluid out the driver front hose. Didn’t have a scan tool on hand so down a sketchy gravel road I went to activate abs about 3-6 times and as soon as I cracked open the banjo bolt to the caliper I got plenty of air and fluid behind it. Thanks again.

[@MrClarkisgod]

The Autel MaxiCheck PRO will cycle your ABS pump and it only costs $199 on Amazon. I bought one for this (and I needed a scanner anyways)

[@francescocosentini9264]

This was helpful,.thank you will try it out . Blessings

[@williamjohnson5056]

Thanks bro ran into that for first time ever, am 59, & always done my own work on what ever needed to be done on my vehicles figered driving it would do the trick but wasn't sure ? Thanks again .

[@parrisprice5892]

Possibly a broken brake hose, collapsed inside????

[@ezraross5194]

So does this not work on pavement because of no slip

[@TheDaninator]

@@ezraross5194 it’s a lot harder to do on pavement

[@kmbriggs2693]

The caliper does not apply and release.there are isolation valves in the valve body that will isolate the wheel or wheels that are locking up from the rest of system.the motor on abs module has a cam on end of it and there are 2 chambers that have spring loaded plungers that get cycled very fast to take the fluid away from the wheel that wants to lock up.

[@josepeixoto3384]

You mean, the ABS modules are without bleeders on them to bleed them first? the bastards!!!

[@zen6643]

have same problem on my car. nothing comes out from left rear brake, cracked open the line from abs module to the left rear, only small amount of fluid comes out. how do i know if the solenoid gets clogged?

[@Lilmiket1000]

Damn this might be my problem. I've changed every part in my jeep grand Cherokees brake system except the abs pump and module. I've confirmed that the pump works though even though I've never heard it in my life simply because I've never slipped. I'm going to have to find somewhere to test it off-road. But that's going to be super hard to do seeing how it's not road legal yet and I'm in the city lol.

[@Thundarr995]

That's how I got air in my system. I replaced 1 caliper because it was sticky. By replacing it,I introduced air into the system. I bled the crap out of the system. Probably used 5 big bottles of fluid and they still didn't work right. I didn't know what was happening so I started replacing stuff. Master cylinder,the other caliper and both rear wheel cylinders. I unknowingly introduced too much air into the system to use the slam on the brakes method. Ended up taking it to the dealer and have them look at it. They bled the brakes with a bi-direcional scanner. My brakes have never been better after that. The mechanic explained why and how I got so much air in my braking system. Next time I change a caliper or wheel cylinder,I'm going to pre- fill the new part. Then disconnect the line from the old part,then quickly connect it to the new part. As for the Master cylinder,first bench bleed it then take the lines off the old master cylinder and switch them one at a time.

[@Robert-lb2zv]

In the beginning the caliper was rusty,dirty,at the end caliper was new clean no rust.

[@nealbaker2132]

Great now I need an acre of land just to fix my brakes but, it's fun work lol.

[@alvinmorsejr.2576]

These comments are inspiring me to try this on my 05 cts. Very soft brake pedal for a while and after changing rotors and brakes they have gotten worse. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks

[@eddie-xi6ls]

Great Great Video. Jusr subscribed.

[@TheDaninator]

Many thanks 👍

[@davewalker1070]

Weak stream? Sounds like a personal problem to me,might be an underlying problem here.

[@DjPorkchop73]

I would prefer #2 but have 0 brakes at all and live in the middle of town so I can not move the vehicle at all. All brand new rotors, calipers, MC, etc. I knew it was going to cost to get the brakes bled but almost pissed myself when the Repair shop quoted me almost 800$. I made a cap with a tire valve stem in it and pressurized my system to 35 psi and made sure the system stayed full and had burp tanks at all 4 wheel and had really nice clean bubble free streams at all 4 wheels and yet, nothing. Extremely firm pedal on ignition off, zilch on running.

[@btd2516]

Have used method #2 on my '94 Chevy G20 van a couple times after replacing calipers once and master cylinder, brakes work good.

[@wesmason1398]

Autel HT200 from Walmart will do the test . Amazing tool for 50$

[@marematrix6838]

Very helpful video, I recommed watching this! GJ 👀👀🐱‍🚀🐱‍🚀

[@JBDossie]

Anybody watching today, you can get the Innova SDS43 protool for $300 to $400 and it has the abs bleed function.

[@havocsrev3nge625]

Thanks for the video! I just bought a 99 v6 mustang with the brakes not working and the guy said it was the proportioning valve. I did some troubleshooting and found that the most likely cause was air in the abs module so I found your video and did what you suggested on my gravel driveway. Worked like a charm and now I just need to bleed all the brakes again.

[@AZHerps]

What if your (my) vehicle has literally no brakes? Really isn't a way to activate the ABS because my pedal goes right to floor

[@josephbohme7917]

my 2000 kia sephia was not recognized by tester or input able. SO no damn remedy

[@Hungrybird474]

I ll come back and report my findings. I’ve been wrenching for years on my own cars . Talked to a mechanic who said did you stomp in the brakes ? Now I know what he meant .

[@rickcoleman8903]

Pressure bleeders are nice attach to the reservoir and pressurize.

[@shawnpa]

I like the pressure bleed. Would it work on an abs?

[@josephbohme7917]

i STIIL HAVE SHIT BRAKES kIA and no abs. I replaced ALL EXECEPT BOOSTER. Did that check 3was okaym but will vac test to see if it holds one

[@billylumpkin1758]

Having the same issues only on the rear of my nissan frontier 2002. Get fluid from the front brakes but not the rear brakes

[@Invisible40442]

I have this issue right now with my rear brake had to take it off to repair and now i have very little trickling out i will try this tomorrow. Hopefully i can find a scan tool as well

[@paulcarter2907]

interesting..Air in ABS module..Thanks

[@alexanderfraser6379]

Excellent video mate, very easy to follow and you explained it well, it’s exactly what am needing to do on my Audi A4 TDi tecknik I took the calliper off to rebuild it (sticky piston) but my wee seal on the pipe leaked and all the fluid drained from the car so I tried normal bleeding to no luck but after reading and this video it should be sorted! That’s after I went and replaced the master cylinder thinking I’d turned the seals when bleeding it! Nightmare of a car! Never again will I get a car that needs a bastard computer to bleed the brakes!!

[@BBBonilla]

Watch a lot of videos before and I don’t remember make it comment. Really appreciate your video. Save me a lot of money

[@ericlakota1847]

I'm having same problem wish I could go try this

[@scurtis106]

You had me at Silve-rusto

[@HowardSprague116]

Now after slamming on brakes, do you rebleed all brakes or just front brakes. I have the same problem with hardly no fluid coming out of front brakes. Mechanic replaced a line a while back.

[@Howrider65]

I had the same problem with air in the ABS. I did the drive and brake fix and it worked lol.

[@a1dieselmechanic921]

A gm tech 2 clone is 300$

[@KevMartin-s2k]

i'm lucky i have a pasture to haul ass around in to get the ABS to activate --> THIS METHOD WORKED PERFECTLY! THANK YOU!

[@TheDaninator]

Sweet!

[@garyjacobs3179]

I used them slam on brakes poor man method. Worked like a charm. Thanks

[@firdausravindar977]

Thank you for posting this valuable video. I am going to try this on my Mitsubishi.