Brass Trains: The Basics and Why Buy Brass?

[@reilleylawrence7248]

Brass is the way to go, period. I have many, both steam and diesel. Some dating back to the sixties and they all operate beautifully. They are works of art

[@WWIIREBEL]

On the past saturday, I went to the train show in Fort Wayne,IN and bought a brass Climax class A , 15 Ton "T boiler" (1972 production) imported by NWSL for $75 dollars. Runs quiet and smooth as a Swiss watch.

[@paulpjs9966]

A year or so a go I accidently purchased my first brass locomotive. My wife had "dragged" me to yet another train show near to our home in southern Ontario. We were at a show in Cobourg, I saw a vendor with a wonderful box marked "Bargain Bin" and BARGAIN BIN it was! HE had a pair of RS-3's, rather heavy, cast metal marked Hobbytown of Boston. He also had a heavier than usual Pacific locomotive in CPR livery. A bit scratched on one side of the tender, missing the plate on the tender where the "coal" should sit but otherwise complete. Further, it had a small speaker in the tender. Price on this little gem was $2.00, with $5.00 foe each of the RS-3's. As per usual I felt necessary to make an offer for this package deal offering him $10.00 which he readily accepted. I really didn't think much more of it until our trip home. As I examined the Pacific in greater detail I noticed the inside of the tender was a shiny, goldish colour. Then it hit me - this $2.00 piece was made of BRASS! Along the bottom was stamped Toby. I'm thinking as I had never expected to find a brass loco in a bargain bin, nor was I even seeking one. As a senior with fixed income the most economical way to add to my collection is buying used - my wife and I feel this is something to connsider doing. I'm still looking for a brass Hudson and may even go as high as $10.00

[@efitter7]

I'm right there with you on appreciating the quality and craftsmanship that goes in to creating brass models, I simply can't afford to buy brass. I also agree that a properly painted brass model looks a lot more like the prototype than any extruded ABS plastic model. With that said I also really like the brass and plastic hybrid models. I would buy brass if I could, but at this point I simply can't. Hopefully down the road I'll be able to acquire some for my collection. Thanks for the video, I really enjoyed watching! -Ethan

[@adaribros]

+efitter7 Thank you Ethan for the reply. If you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. With BLI hybrid models starting to come in at a discounted price, over $600, I am not sure how much longer that will hold before people say no more. Then they move to brass. Which is mostly cheaper.

[@ryantaylor3278]

I mostly have newer BLI brass hybrids, and they are all great. However I do have 3 all brass engines to go along with them. Challenger Imports SP GS-1, SP 4-10-2, and a Sunset CB&Q O-5. Brass is a good way to pick up models not readily available from the mainstream manufacturers, and those engines have never been made in anything other than brass as far as I can tell. Also, you sold me an MTH Triplex about a year ago. Your customer service is second to none, and I took your advise and bought some brass this year!

[@bipbipletucha]

Love that Missabe consol!

[@Trainmaster909]

I really like brass models from the mid-80s to the present day. Most of them are DCC-ready (in that they have a can motor isolated from the frame), have phenomenal detail, and run really well (unlike some older brass models).

[@steffenrosmus9177]

I own a Brass D&RGW L 131 in O Scale built as a 4 piece run placed by an US Navy officer in 1954 in Japan by Kodama San. Details like models from today, I only replaced the original motor with an coreless motor and digitalized it. Runs superb and one of my favourite engines.

[@adaribros]

I would love to see that model! That’s too cool!

[@debbiemilka2251]

I have a couple of brass engines that I bought when they were new from the early seventies. A PFM U.P. 2-8-0 and an NWSL 18 ton shay. Neither run for some reason and I need a connection to a reputable repair service to get them running an possibly install DCC. Do you know anyone who does this valuable service ? Many thanks. I really enjoyed your presentation. It's great to see andhear a new generation who appreciates the intrinsic beauty and value of brass.

[@adaribros]

There are a number of people who perform this service. There are several great painters. Please feel free to call us using the phone number on our website. I’d be happy to help set you in the right direction

[@gearyc]

I have bought, sold and collected N Scale Brass models for 20 years. I also have several HO models in my collection, notably Boston and Maine steam. Even as the non-brass suppliers ramp up their details, the craftsmanship that goes into a brass model exceeds any of the plastic models. A great example is the Key T1's vs the BLI plastic T1's. There's a reason why the Key's sell for $2000+. It's too bad the N Scale market doesn't have enough demand for new brass models. But, we have what we have and I'm thankful for that...

[@daylightbigboy]

You said it! I'm very new to brass (I've only got 2 locomotives) but I'm hooked! I've got a 1960s SP 4-4-0 with walcherts valve gear and a vanderbilt tender and I can't even find a prototype photo of it, that's how unique the brass prototypes are. I can't find another example of this engine anywhere! Needs brushes but it runs. Great video!

[@adaribros]

Thanks Peter! Can't wait to see the Brass you got!

[@sierravalleyandharborjunction]

my first brass was HO 2-6-0 steamer.....swap meet special at only $40.00....needed a minor repair to one eccentric crank ( simple soldering job)....today it still is my favorite and best runner....

[@alanpope179]

I purchased 4 brass steam locomotives at different timesin the last year on ebay. All 4 were built between 1960-65 with original packaging( beautiful embossed boxes with the smelly foam) and signed build sheets from the Japanese craftsmen who built them! They all ran on my 10 foot test track out of the box.....and the headlights worked! All 4 have early can motors and the nylon drive components will be replaced. I paid less for all of them than I would pay for one of then in hybrid form with sound!

[@The20thCenturyLimited]

I'm just starting an ho layout after being into postwar Lionel for more than 5 years and o gauge in general for more than 10 years. I'm looking at strictly buying brass and diecast engines. 1 because brass engines are an investment, 2 the detail is great, 3 most were hand made and custom, and finally 4 most older ones and some new ones were made in japan and this means a lot since I am half japanese. Great video, look forward to seeing more! Thanks

[@w.rustylane5650]

Really like the Western Maryland 3 truck Shay. Cheers - TN

[@residentevil742]

Picked up my first brass steamer off ebay a couple days ago (L&N J-3 Mikado) for 200 and though it had no box or anything it runs like a champ and could probably pull the house down. I think what keeps a lot of people away from brass is really the price and the fact that these older models tend to be harder to modernize than some contemporary plastic ones. Gonna work on mine though add lights, dcc and sound and some extra detail that it's missing currently.

[@adaribros]

Welcome to Brass! If you have any questions make sure to join the group "The Brass Collectors and Operators" on Facebook

[@asmccleaf]

I buy brass trains because finely detailed models of the specific prototypes I am after (Ma & PA RR) are often not available, or not historically accurate. The Ma & Pa motorcars 61 & 62 are great examples. Plastic models of other Ma & Pa engines have recently become available, but much of the roster remains only available in brass.

[@AlexTrain5249]

To me, brass trains are incredibly tempting, not just because of their detail, it’s because of their weight which usually equates to more pulling power. But I heard that brass itself is extremely fragile.

[@steffenrosmus9177]

Depends how well it is soldered and constructed. Never had Problems with Key, Westside, PBL, Overland, PFM but problems with smaller or lazier importers like NWSL, PSC and Hallmark are common. Nevertheless most problems occur due to the mediocre motorical skills of the owners. 😂😂😂

[@ALVHERON]

Great video! I’ve had a few different ones over the years and just bought an Oriental Limited PRR M1a and will buy more over the years. I have plastic models as well detailed as some brass out there, if not more so, but brass is hard to beat for a certain feel and heft you’ll never get from plastic. It feels much more durable and long lasting. To me it feels far more like a miniature of the real thing. I have diecast models as well and when the plastic parts are replaced with brass. Plus, the hand built aspects of brass mirror the real thing much more.

[@TKommando]

I have a really old brass locomotive. I wish it ran as quietly as yours do. It's a GTEL locomotive with just a single power hungry motor. I would love to own an additional brass locomotive. They are just something that is unique in a lot of places.

[@w.rustylane5650]

I just got my first brass diesel locomotive, a Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 in the Central of Georgia RR livery, and I really love this engine even though the Central of Georgia RR only had F-M H15-44's. It was made in Korea by Samhongsa (Hallmark). I couldn't believe how heavy the engine is. I will have to add my own LED headlight and red LED backup light but that is an easy task. I've changed out all my other engines to LED headlights except for 2 Athearn switchers. Now if I can just find a couple of brass steamers to go with the diesel I'd be a happy camper (actually a happy railroader). I'm beginning to appreciate the details that brass offers. Cheers from eastern TN

[@adaribros]

You may experience a cracked gear on those older Hallmark Samhongsa engines. New gears can be had from NWSL

[@w.rustylane5650]

@@adaribros Thanks for your quick response. I'll watch out for that flaw. So far it looks and performs like a brand new engine. Cheers - TN

[@patrickwamsley3284]

I recently got my first brass engine. A Nickel Plate Products version of the Nickel Plate L1-b Hudson from about the 70's and brand new, never ran before. It runs terribly. The gearbox needs to be greased and I have to find the source of the short when turning right but for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to take it apart to fix it! I do the same to every engine I purchase but this one just doesn't seem to have any way to remove the boiler from the frame.

[@dagger1-140]

I never understood why you wanted brass... Until one day, at my model rr club. As my two MTH Mohawks were pulling a 35 car mixed and on the westbound passed my club mates CNW Berkshire... with 40 cars... solo... then I knew I wanted one.. and still don’t have one lol

[@michaelfedora5630]

I have 3 brass now and will probably begin switching over to them again because of the price now of plastic models with sunammi sound cards they are going out of there league in price for these units so time to switch back to brass and install a DCC sound system into them might be much cheaper but alot more authentic for sure

[@nthechocolatefactory372]

Can you make a video on your PSC Golden Spike transcontinental set of with the Union Pacific 119 and the Jupiter locomotives?

[@victabeer3960]

Very nice .As a over adventurous track layer outerer.I wanted to know have you or any other person had a derailment and tumble to ground from waste height? I have had some major carnage with a super fast little Lima shunter and freight cars. My layouts are tons of flex going all over . Then the lot gets de pinned and thrown in a crate for the next roller coaster .I Also want to know about brass kits for normal civilians to get in at less cost. My house in Australia cost less than your engines.My neighbor Duncan says brass trains are for yuppy show offs. I told him to rack off and play Thomas with his Sister..I like the track cleaning engine . How good is the mechanical action on that bad boy?

[@NickSquids]

No more beers with Duncan...

[@w.rustylane5650]

Now that I'm retired and have a little more to spend, I'll be saving up for more brass. How about brass rolling stock? Do you collect brass rolling stock? Cheers - TN

[@adaribros]

Great question. I do collect and sell rolling stock. Particularly cabooses and unique pieces!

[@chuckgilly]

I have turned mostly toward brass (mostly diesel) because of the hand rails and other details falling off or easily broken, and the paint on them is more real. I still prefer plastic rolling stock except for some exotic type of cars. There are a lot of nice plastic Cabeese out there, I have both plastic and brass Cabeese. I prefer brass passenger cars, especially plated brass.

[@larrymonske8086]

Do you have a Jupiter or something thats runs good in that style of the Golden spike the other train was UP . Please no box of pieces an some missing.I so love the detail and great work that goes into building these engines

[@buijs1967]

If i had unlimited funding i would buy brass as well. But for now i am very happy with BLI or Athearn engines. I do not buy trains as a investment but to run and enjoy them if you airbrush/weather a plastic high detail engine such a the im cab forward its hard to see the difference with a brass one. Depreciation of models today also has to do with the progress in dcc systems, who wants a qsi from 8 years ago if you can get a paragon 3 or loksound decoder. Nice vid thanks for sharing.

[@officialpennsyjoe]

Not only that, brass locomotives made from the 60's are the same, if not the less of the price as they were back then. Depreciation hit hard.

[@dukhinda100]

Thank you for the information

[@dancalmpeaceful3903]

"Clunky, old engines that don't run".......your phrase is describing one of two things: Either : a) Rivirossi's from the 1960's and 70's - Nothing but trouble....great eye-candy (for plastic) but they don't pull for shit, noisy, and have a terrible motor design (hmm....maybe I'm describing some women here....I'm not sure). b) Joe Biden Good vid - as I was always curious about brass. The Duluth, Missabe - which by the way, is absolutely gorgeous and fantastically detailed. I think for brass, as an art dealer which I am, - one has to consider it as a piece of art and an investment that you really get to enjoy (play with). I can't see how you would lose money on brass. You are correct, plastic models NEVER go for much more than they ever initially started out at. They always tend to go for less after a couple of years. I tend to buy used due to this.

[@adfgfds]

Maybe someday when I win the lottery, I'll be able to afford brass. For now, I'll stick with my modeling skills to make models look as good as brass. Plastic has come a long way over the years. Take ScaleTrains's Museum Quality Gas Turbine for example. Show me a better looking model of that locomotive in the brass. Another example is the Athearn Genesis SDP45. It has more detail than any previous brass model, including UTI. I mean, I guess if you want to make "an investment" like you would with gold coins, then that's another matter. But as far as plastic vs brass on detail, it honestly depends on the year of the brass model. As far as new plastic models go, it's on par, and for a fraction of the price......with DCC and Sound.

[@sierravalleyandharborjunction]

there are lots of great affordable brass locos if you check at the swap meets....I picked up a nice 0-6-0 steam switcher last Sunday for $100.00.....runs great!!!!

[@dickshawn258]

The only thing that sucks about modern models is that they are made in some Asian country instead of the United States.

[@OriginalBongoliath]

Dick Shawn And if they were made here you would complain about how expensive and overpriced they are. Blame the government and corporations for making it impossible for that to happen. Too many laws, regulations, and labor costs make it unfeasible here.

[@daveboydell2896]

American built garbage.

[@geohig01]

Can you give information about the WM shay you briefly displayed operating? Thank you

[@travisolson9190]

What's your opinion for brass collectors and DCC/Sound. It seems current dcc decoders become outdated over the years, like any computer, which may be of concern for long term collectors. So do you think more brass manufacturers should even offer DCC? I was surprised Fulgerex was offering digital.

[@evanhizon8112]

I want to get into some brass locomotive. Maybe a ATSF 2-10-4, but you have these uneducated idiots who think these locomotives are artifacts from the Lost City of Atlantis. They are asking for $1500 - $4500

[@adaribros]

Evan Hizon some people ask far too much. I like the ones in the price range of a hybrid model

[@evanhizon8112]

@@adaribros What brass manufacturer and website do you recommend for a beginner?

[@adaribros]

@@evanhizon8112 Check out BrassTrains.com. They upload models all day Monday-Thursday. Models range in price from $100-Way up there. Check out my website as well BrassBasement.com. Contact me if you have any questions about purchasing brass.

[@IndustrialParrot2816]

i am looking into brass details because it cost upward of 2,000 bucks to model brass in G scale and i am not a rivet counter $300 of detail will suffice for an ALCo S4

[@raysand2557]

Wow, the 2nd engine is [you said it] spectacular! What is it about brass trains that make them so detailed? Is brass more maleable than other metals? I have a collection of Lionel Legacy trains made of cast iron that are detailed, but nothing is as good as that Duluth steam engine. It's a virtual museum piece. What company makes these trains?

[@adaribros]

Hey Ray. Sorry I never got back to you. Brass is a very maleable metal and can be crafted very nicely. These models are hand build which makes them works of art. The DM&IR 2-8-0 was made by Precision Scale Company. I have a facebook page called The Brass Collectors and Operators. There is a link to it on my page. Make sure to join. I'd be happy to share more.

[@snowvrgt8667]

The only reason I worry about purchasing one is I don’t have stuff to paint it with and I don’t know anybody to paint it

[@steffenrosmus1864]

Brass is more expensive yep. But the advantages of operating brass engines are higher 1. Increase in worth ( not on all ) instead of deline on plastic 2 more durable than plastic and thatfor better for the environment. 3. Your kids and grandkids could play with them.long after you has gone south. My oldest brass engine is from 1959 I am born 196. This old WSM product runs now excellent after beeing remotored with a coreless motors by Stoner Creek Miniatures .

[@michaelnaisbitt7926]

Let me know where I can get hold of a UP 4-12-2 and an Erie Triplex 2-8-8-8-2

[@adaribros]

Message us on our website please

[@boxcarthehusky420]

In S scale, Brass is your best friend lol

[@sheafan1971]

Hi I have some brass or nickel plated trains from the 70s, how much are they worth today? also what is the difference between nickel plated and brass

[@Nscaleguy1]

What's your experience with N scale brass engines? I've always been on the fence when it comes to brass models since spookshow hasn't given his brass engines good reviews over all.

[@alexvids9232]

im buying brass soon, i dont need to be told why. i got my first 70s plastic and instantly wanted all metal. the plastic is awesome. the metal must be better.

[@BrightStarLine2022]

Was that the Cass Scenic Railroad Shay #6. In the video

[@adaribros]

Yes sir it was. Thank you for watching!

[@herbertplaire6599]

Are there any 3rd rail Brass trains for sale out there?

[@adaribros]

@@herbertplaire6599 the brand 3rd rail? We don’t stock any however they do exist.

[@justindampier5108]

I prefer brass over non brass models. All but 2 out of my 10 HOn3 engines are brass.

[@larrymonske8086]

350? brass always loved them.

[@Beux3751]

I think the cost scares most people away. I’m buying brass

[@adaribros]

Bryan McCauley have you gotten any nice piece yet? They’re a lot of fun!

[@minisoul01]

I just want a frisco 1522 but since I can't find the brass model I really can't even have one

[@adaribros]

You should look for a PFM Toby Built Frisco 4-8-2. They sell for about $300!

[@nirmalbabu7799]

What scale is it?

[@adaribros]

HO scale

[@nirmalbabu7799]

@@adaribros thanks buddy

[@Thenarwill1]

Is the SP 3000 a Roundhouse model?

[@scalebrass3522]

No the SP 3000 is a factory painted Westside brass loco.

[@adaribros]

Yes. It was imported by Westside Brass. Built by Mizuno in Japan, 1976

[@jimbobjones5972]

I hate to be that guy, but in looking at the other comments, I don't think anyone has addressed this, so I will. The city in Northern Minnesota is pronounced, "Duh-LEWTH." Thanks for your consideration in this matter. I apologize for any inconvenience.

[@adaribros]

JimBob No problem I learn something new everyday

[@jimbobjones5972]

@@adaribros Thanks. I appreciate that.

[@Sparky0566]

Okay, so I watched and went to brasstrains.com, can't afford that. They had a few for the 400 dollars but they were non working lol. There's F ubits to but 680.00 too much. I'll stick with plastics.

[@adaribros]

+Sparky0566 Well you don't buy brass for diesels. In most cases anyway.

[@daylightbigboy]

Sparky0566 You can find 1960s and 1970s brass at train shows for less than $100.

[@scalebrass3522]

The DCC Shop www.dccshop.com installs DCC decoders and sound (when possible) in brass. Also, do not discount the BLI brass hybrids as these are brass locos with DCC and sound. The GN S2 4-8-4s are phenomenal. Thanks for the interesting video!

[@adaribros]

+Scale Brass Very cool. I will subscribe! However, I have heard bad reports on the new GN S2. Very bad reports. I receive a lot of them as I am very connected in the hobby. Everything from Paint issues to sound issues. I will be purchasing a model from them soon. Hopefully it holds up. Thanks for watching and liking!

[@antoanoo]

Hi Adaribros Adam I will really appreciate if you can write the Facebook group you mention in th video ! I searched for such group but nothing to be found :( :( :(

[@adaribros]

antoanoo hey the group is called "The Brass Collectors" We'd be happy to have you!

[@raymondscottbehnoud8986]

💎♥️

[@Tivis7]

Me: PULLING POWER

[@tedsmith1295]

brass is boss , hoss

[@scottthurman3625]

No ZINC PEST!

[@jamescerone]

Just a thought: the whole “you can make money on brass engines” argument is a little sad to hear, since what you describe is probably one of the reasons brass is so prohibitively expensive. Every time a model is resold, the price inflates. I’d love to buy brass-I think it’s second to none. But model railroading is already a rich man’s hobby (even more so now than it once was), and brass is just way out of range. Even clubs have very little brass, because it all goes to collectors with loads of cash/good connections. And if they do, good luck convincing them to let you even drive them since they’re so precious.

[@adaribros]

Brass is as inexpensive as it’s ever been before. New steam locomotives are coming out at $900 retail in HO. You can pick up many nice brass locomotives for half that cost. There are so many great manufactures from yesteryear with quality items ready to run on most any layout. Namely PFM and Key Imports. Thanks for watching.

[@jamescerone]

@@adaribros that’s still more expensive than comparable plastic models is it not?

[@adaribros]

@@jamescerone I was referring to new BLI hybrid models and some of their non hybrid diecast models coming out at prices like that. In brass, you’re talking prototypes never offered in another form

[@bruceboyer8187]

Recommend that you write yourself a script then speak from that. It will stop the ums... and uhs...and repetition. Wanting you to be your best😊

[@adaribros]

Thank you!