Beer Brewery Fermenter and Brite Tank

[@HudsonJT]

Just started a job as a cellar hand in a local 7 BBL brewery and this channel is a *phenomenal* way to review what the Lead Brewer has been showing me. Thank you for all your hard work, this collection of videos is a very valuable tool.

[@PS-bl6lc]

I'd like to store product chilled to 34F. Please make a video about chilling a jacketed brite tank, including the chilling equipment that is needed; the plumbing and controls.

[@matureman1825]

Pls also made a video about cooling jacket process in fv

[@larouxn]

Super informative content. Absolutely love this series. Great work!

[@justinbum44]

thanks for the info, just started at a bewery and im green as grass

[@robchristopher6603]

Thanks for the great video. My 6BBl FV has a carbonation stone in it. At present I carbonate and keg straight from the fermenter. What would be the advantage of adding a bright tank to my brewery? Thanks again.

[@GD15555]

please make a couple of videos of beer types, how to come up with new recipes in this crowded market .

[@brewerylife3596]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@marcsee6999]

Can you hook up your bottling machine directly to the bright tank when finished carbonating? If yes, please please make a video of this! Thank you!

[@rodrigobaldivieso4467]

I have the same question please

[@jonathanzazueta3347]

Looking to know same quesion over here, great videos Jasper i owe you so much!

[@JAWSFREE]

what is the average loss , in other words if you put in 10BBl how many finished BBl do you remove

[@Cognaccoffee]

why racking arm down while CIP?

[@jlqtraceur]

I´ve seen FV with carbonation stones. What would be the difference with a BBT? Could you drop your cone and save buying a BBT?

[@descargabrewing3907]

So, on unitanks which essentially is a hybrid of both tanks, can you add fruit additions considering the carbonation stone is in the vessel? I'm worried about the fruit or hops for that matter clogging the stone. Thanks MJ

[@andrsfch]

what a great brew house you got there, thanks for the description of your vessels..... also ive been wonder how do you control the temperature inside them ?

[@hiaslayer]

Why would you have a 30psi PRV on a BBT and a 15psi PRV on a FV? Should it not be the other way round?

[@brewerylife3596]

Thanks for the question. Most (all?) manufactured commercial FV's are only rated to 15 psi. The purpose of the FV holding pressure is to capture natural carbonation by capping the end of fermentation. Building 10psi at end of fermentation is normal. If you wanted to capture 30psi you would risk damaging the yeast. The BBT is designed for finishing carbonation and packaging. If your gycol can only chill your beer to 38F you will need 15psi or more to carbonate some beers and a 15psi PRV would be a pain. During packing runs out of the BBT some canning and bottling lines require the BBT to be 18 psi or higher to fill the beer optimally. It is common for both tanks to have 15psi PRV's but I wouldn't recommend putting a 30PRV on the FV. Why would you think it should be the other way, The FV is generally warmer and warmer liquids require higher pressures to hold CO2 in solution? Anyways hope this helps, Cheers!

[@hiaslayer]

Hi, when you chill your beer 1bar will never be exceeded. However, if you want to naturally carbonate an ale you need to set your spunding device to at least to 1.7bar to reach sufficient co2 levels. If you set it to only 1bar you wont get enough co2. if you would cool, 1 bar could be enough but only for lager yeast. ale yeast wont ferment at these low temperatures. To partly carbonate the beer does not make sense in my opinion. why would you bother at all with this when you later force carbonate anyway? The pressure on the yeast is extreme, that's true but before you set the spunding device you should harvest anyway. Once the co2 is in the beer you also can't dryhop anymore by just throwing the hops in (gushing) so you wont reuse the yeast after spunding/dryhopping.

[@brewerylife3596]

Thanks for contributing! It does make sense to have a 30PRV on the FV if spunding to final CO2 levels are planned. Manufactures do make FV rated above 1bar but they are far more expensive. "Chill beer 1bar will Never be exceeded" This could definitely be true in your brewery, but for many others around the world it is not. Example; cheap gycol chiller, My brewery when I do canning runs..ect "Partly Carbonation does not make sense, why bother?" Capping a FV is really easy, check gravity then close butterfly valve. This process partly carbonates the beer up to 2.0vols. This partly carbonated beer will save a bunch of time and Co2 ($$$) when finishing carbing. Capping or partly carbing also, helps head retention, saves aroma, and builds pressure to prepare for cold crash. If no positive pressure is built before cold crash you will risk FV implosion (unlikely) and sucking in Oxygen. Capping fermentation (partly carbonating) a beer seems/is very beneficial to me. At what Plato do you start spunding to build 1.7bar, around 2.0P from target? Have you seen any problems with collecting early flocculating yeast? It would be (impossible?) to remove all the yeast from the active pressurizing FV and building pressure will affect active yeasts flavor compounds. In higher pressures there are increases in acetaldehyde, and decreases in higher alcohol and easter production to name a few. I totally agree that drying hopping should be done before spunding/capping and yeast should not be collected after dry hopping. Thanks again for your comment. I would love to experiment with totally spunding to final CO2, maybe in my next life ill buy a few FV's rated to 2-3bar. Gotta love all the ways this awesome product is produced. Have a great weekend, Cheers!

[@hiaslayer]

Our FVs are rated to 2.0bar so we can actually fully carbonate the beer. However we are also producing cask beer and for these batches we obviously do not spund and can harvest yeast that is less damaged . With this yeast we can pitch subsequent cask/keg batches. We don't harvest from keg batches due to the high pressure and the low yield at the end of primary (we could not harvest after cooling because the beer is already dryhopped). But I agree with you. Everyone does things differently and as long you dont "damage" the beer (off flavours, oxidisation etc. there is not the one right way.

[@smgri]

do you..or can you... run a line straight to your taps or do you have to run to keg first !?

[@brewerylife3596]

You can serve off the brite tank or keg. If used as a serving tank it will be tied up until the beer is gone or a new batch is blended in. If used for kegging the tank can put out btaches of kegs every 2 to 3 days, Cheers!

[@andreypopov9758]

Great video! How do you repitch your yeast? Do you need to collect them from a fermenter first, then sanitize it as you shoes in your video. Or you just dump some trüb from the conical, transfer the beer to a bright tank and add a new one in fv?

[@brewerylife3596]

Thanks! I harvest/collect yeast in a brink, CIP the tank, Pitch by weight during Kettle Knockout. Cone to Cone pitching is also common. Adding a fresh batch on a "dirty" tank is done but I would not recommend it. I will be doing a video on yeast at some point, cheers!

[@andreypopov9758]

Yeah video on yeast would be great!

[@smgri]

thanks..very clear description..appreciate it !

[@brewerylife3596]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@carlosillescas7057]

Thanks for the video! I just have one question. When CIP cleaning the BBT, don´t you need to have a relief valve open? or do I just connect my CIP pump and hoses to the BBT as a closed circuit. Thanks!

[@brewerylife3596]

Good question, There are a few different ways to do the BBT. If the beer is filtered then it is possible to keep the CO2 in the BBT and run acid cycles under pressure between batches. If not, The Top PRV can be removed, The manway can be cracked open. Sample valve and carb stone can be removed and replaced with butterflies and 90 elbows to floor. It is always important to pay attention to pressure changes, good eye.

[@omzdash7362]

how to control PRV and BBT temperature.

[@donzoko2946]

Hey jasper, great content on here, what do you think about unitanks instead of fv/bbt? any problems fermenting with a carb stone inside? Cheers

[@brewerylife3596]

Thanks! I think it is a great way to save space and make great beer. Unitanks are better for a pub brewery rather than a packaging production brewery. No problems fermenting. Clarification and Carbonation can be tricker if the FV's PRV blows prematurely (which most do) and the gycol chiller system needs to get the beer to 34-35F. (30F better). My "current" opinion is if you are using carb stones anywhere (BBT or Uni) buy an UltraSonic Cleaner for the stones. There is just no other long term solution to cleaning those things. Hope this helped, Cheers!

[@steffenmuller8178]

Great informative videos with a highly motivated guy - Thumbs up ! :-)

[@vikramjitsingh4538]

very helpful....thanks

[@sachendraawasthi680]

Fermenter chahiye

[@phamhuynhson9592]

WHAT 'S UP MEN?