Brian May Red Special Guitar Build: Fretboard Position Marker Repairs by dsgb

[@ThomasBrunkard]

These are skills that always so far away from me until I see your videos. Masterfully produced, explained and executed 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@dsgb]

Thanks for your kind words Thomas. 💜😀🙏🏻

[@TheRedSpecialGuitarPodcast]

Love this video Doug. Well done. Such a great insight in to what goes on and the challenges of using CNC. Must watch Red Special content. Keep it up

[@dsgb]

Thanks buddy. 👍🏻😀 That was the first fretboard I cut from the timber you supplied which was really good quality and a pleasure to work with.

[@gplaza]

Absolutely brilliant idea to leave the 1mm waste material on the sides! 🤯

[@dsgb]

Yes. So brilliant, I didn't think of it for seven years. 😫

[@tribesmanjohn]

Another great video as always Doug ❤

[@dsgb]

Thanks for your support Tribesman John. 👍🏻💜😀

[@mel_163]

8:16 Thank you for the knowledge Thinking about studying chemestry in the future

[@dsgb]

I recommend any flavour of engineering over a pure physical science. 👍🏻😀

[@palacraft8916]

Very Interessant video as always !

[@dsgb]

Merci beaucoup Nolhan! 👍🏻😀

[@Adam_Halford]

Hi Doug. I doubt that I would have the confidence to ever attempt this procedure but it was interesting to see it done. I guess CNC will only deliver precise results if you align everything correctly. Did you consider just drilling out the dots on a drill press aligning by eye?

[@dsgb]

Hi Adam. Yes, I did consider avoiding all the alignment faff and just drilling the dots out manually using my drill press. However, I thought it would be more of a challenge and, if it worked out o.k., make an interesting video. 👍🏻😀

[@norsangkelsang7939]

I've done this with an under sized forester bit and a hand drill... chip out the remainder, done in a few minutes

[@dsgb]

I assume that you meant "Forstner" drill. I needed to remove the old dots and drill the existing holes deeper so the job was a bit more involved than just a straightforward remove and replace, that's why I chose to re-run the CNC toolpath. 👍🏻😀

[@TristanJCumpole]

Afternoon Doug! I'd like to follow up on your advice about not letting water to contact a finished wood surface. I agree and disagree, however this is not atypical of me as you might expect by now. Water is actually incredibly useful as part of a finishing schedule as the cells that comprise the fibres of wood will readily take on water and swell, as is their biological purpose. The main point is that fibres which are cut, damaged or unsupported from sanding processes will swell and rise up from the sanded surface. They can then be knocked back with a lick of 320 grit paper at 10 o' clock and 2 o' clock with respect to the grain direction, as in line has a higher likelihood of pushing them back in place. This handles the initial fuzzies raised from finishing. In general it is unwise to get surfaces wet for no reason. I'd probably say this is more of a wood biology issue than one of chemistry in terms of informational value. ;-)

[@dsgb]

Thanks for chipping in. It's sound general advice rooted in physical science principles. Some species are relatively impervious to water such as ebony. Of course, several factors such grain orientation, structure and damage from cutting or abrasion will influence water take up. Please bear in mind that I pitch my videos to a general audience including people with a primarily musical or artistic background and try to edit them so that they have some pure entertainment value, rather than being informative or instructional. 👍🏻😀