Brick Paper Basics - Getting Great Results With Brick Papers For Model Buildings

In this video we take a look at some of the basic techniques for getting great results when working with brick papers on your model buildings.
There are several very simple, yet key techniques which you'll need to master when working with brick papers. None of them are difficult to master, but as always, practice makes perfect.
Techniques Covered In This Video:
» Working with UHU
» How to get nice crisp corners
» Wrapping window & door reveals
Once you've mastered these three basic techniques you'll be well on the way to getting fantastic results with any of our kits.

[@krazytroutcatcher]

If you wish to add texture to the brick paper, depending on the size and scale of the brick, you can use a Sizzix Big Shot, with a Wills brick sheet as an emboss. Get familiar with the big shot, lay the Wills sheet onto the packing, line your brick paper up with the Wills sheet, I used a cocktail stick to line the printed sheet with the Will sheet, then face up, lay a silicone rubber sheet over both, then run it through the Big Shot to emboss. Try it a few times, practice makes perfect.

[@ScaleModelScenerycouk]

Nice idea. I’m not a fan of embossed stuff to be honest. Particularly brickwork. The mortar lines are invariable over scale in order for them to be seen. L

[@ArtbyJoeH]

I Thought the same...​@ScaleModelScenerycouk

[@w.rustylane5650]

Why not just use PVA? Just takes a little longer to dry. What exactly is UHU? Is that the British version of Super Glue? Don't think I've ever heard of UHU. I use plasticized card stock for brick work from Rail Scale Models. They offer card stock which mimics older weathered brick or their plastic coated card stock which is used for newer brick and the colors are more brilliant because the paint doesn't soak into the card stock, rather lays on the surface. Cheers from eastern TN

[@ScaleModelScenerycouk]

UHU is an all purpose adhesive. PVA is great for card but a nightmare for paper. UHU doesn’t soak in so you get a perfect finish when working with brick papers. I prefer working with paper rather than cars as you can get much sharper edges with paper. Plus it’s nigh on impossible to wrap an mdf building carcass with card. Paper gives a far superior finish with crisp corners and no visible card edges. That’s why we use paper wraps in our kits rather than card. Card is great if you’re scratchbuilding and want something that has structural integrity as well as a brick or stone finish. But we use mdf, ply and laserboard for the structure of our buildings, allowing us to use paper for the wraps to get the realistic finish.