TOP 7 Reasons your Classic VW Beetle BuG Hesitates, Stalls, or CHOKES on Acceleration

[@gaborkorthy8355]

Accelerator pump tube : the spray of gas from the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted such that as the throttle plate opens that spray shoots between the wall of the carburator and the opening throttle plate. The brass tube will rotate to facilitate that adjustment. After adjusting make sure to reseat the base of the tube into the carb body by pushing it down.

[@benkanobe7500]

This is by far one of THE most overlooked items with these carbs. People cycle through carbs all because rebuilders don't really understand how the carb works. Getting that spray to fan-out as it hits the edge of the throttle plate just as it cracks from the venturi wall makes for an excellent throttle response. You are right on!!

[@monkeysuncle2816]

Pushing the nozzle down FIRMLY. I recommend removing the top plate of the carb to BE SURE it's pressed down FULLY. Ask my how I know this.

[@rtistik94]

Awesome video, thanks for all the knowledge you share with us. It's greatly appreciated!😎🤙

[@classicvwbugs]

You bet! Thank you.

[@MIKEJMP]

Chris Vallone is Cool!

[@rupe53]

Good video, but your top 7 only covers early engines. Once we get to the dual port manifolds we have those rubber boots on the intake that are always cracked due to age. Heck, I saw some leaking 40 years ago so I can only imagine how dry rotted they are now!

[@mawrmcmahan]

1. Carburetor / Distributor Combination 1:02 2. Accelerator Pump 2:29 3. Side Jet(s) 3:47 4. Automatic Choke 4:47 5. Junk Within Jets 6:46 6. Vacuum Leak 8:49 7. Electrical Components 10:09

[@mikeburris9489]

I put new carburetor and air filter on my 1966 ghia. I had to add a spacer under the carburetor because it was hitting the generator. It sputters when the engine heats up. It takes a while. Choke is open. I notice that spacer under the carburetor is cold to the touch and has a little condensation. What are some good recommended fixes?

[@gustavopadilla9176]

Good video 👍

[@gustavovazquez6398]

Have issues trying to perform static timing I have done you did on your video except that as soon I connect the light test lights come on I turn the distributor and the light doesn’t go off

[@allenbrian72]

Ok I have a 1679cc thick wall cyclenders with a Weber progressive carb and 009 distribution. I e changed the jets and have a electronic ignition. It was running great till a few days ago and somehow got out of time. I’ve worked on it for days but long story short I changed the rotor n cap and runs better and staying in time but now I still have a lil hesitation as I’m throttling up and going they the gears. Never had it before so any idea I would appreciate.

[@bmpvw]

Did you figure it out?

[@rudolphhawke5938]

I have a 73 super beetle 1600 motor when I drive 65 mph after about 3 miles the engine shuts off if I drive 60 miles an hour or below it runs great all day no hesitation it's nothing

[@rudolphhawke5938]

It will start back up after I pull over to the side of the road and drive fine

[@joeodonnell2594]

Great tips

[@bunski78]

I have a 71 super beetle with duel carbs. It struggles to start but once it starts it runs fine. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@Shon9tilR]

Got a new battery and alternator and car won’t start. When i jump it, it starts up strong but after a few minutes cuts off. Any suggestions? 04 vw beetle.

[@classicvwbugs]

In this video, we look at the top 7 seasons why your Vintage Classic VW Beetle Bug will hesitate. stall, choke, on acceleration.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

Another great way to check for vacuum leaks is to use a propane torch unlit but turned on and move the nozzle close to all the gaskets and fittings listening for the engine to speed up. Not messy either!

[@ahernandez9860]

So close to getting my shitbox running after 2 years. Multitude of issues but got hesitation on acceleration now. 34 pict 3 empi carb paired with 034 clone from pertronix with matching wires. With only 3 screws to adjust on carb you think it would be a snap but never is. German carbs are near 400.00 now! WTF is going on? This timeline sux!

[@duffysullivan2794]

If the VW is not running smooth, or not even starting, it all boils down to two reasons... it's not getting fuel, or it is not getting spark.

[@vladmares8128]

Or compression ;)

[@ugrikapetanovic224]

Or it's getting to much fuel. That plastic leveler could be too low.

[@WCA13]

That’s so funny I’m new to this and those two things have always been the root to my problems so far so good

[@MutualPropane]

What about air ?

[@ferdinandbaez2410]

My VW sb 71 starts and idles at 850rpm and runs without hesitation but it dies when stopping. Carb was cleaned and new carb kit was installed. It used to hesitate but I replace the dist with a SvDA Pertronix Throw-flamer II. Any ideas to fix this problem?

[@classicvwbugs]

do you have that idle solenoid on the side of the carb? If you do, try cracking that loose a little bit. Or you may have to take the carb apart and take all the lil BBs out and dunk the carb overnight.

[@John-ex1xt]

Check fuel pump rod mine was sticking in the riser

[@jonathanfrank1073]

Great video, but as an owner of a ghia and not a mechanic at all, it reminds me that I saw a video a few years ago about putting a Subaru engine in one....and it makes me wanna look up how much that would cost. These little engines are very cool creations and I love the sound of them running, but I’m starting to think it takes a mechanic to own one and not be constantly frustrated and disappointed by the car. (Obviously mine has been pissing me off lately - 🙄)

[@TheCarNextDoor]

I just spent 4 days trying to solve a bog and dead spot under load. Focussed on timing first. Then a few days cleaning carbs, jets, setting accelerator pump, etc., back to timing. Nothing helped that much. The problem ended up being the point gap. I checked the points last. It was a bit too wide. I set it to 0.016” and problem solved. Advise: Check the east things before you start ripping apart your carbs. Lol.

[@RickG13]

Hi Chris, my 65 has been sitting for about a year. A small amount of gas is in the tank I belive and i need a new battery. Anything at all I should do BEFORE I start it up to prevent damage?

[@classicvwbugs]

Inspect that tank, dump the gas. Check oil of course. A year is not too long so... Go thru tune up motions too.

[@devitafilms6455]

That green beetle behind you is a Beauty.

[@classicvwbugs]

Yes my friend Joe's 54 Oval Rag.

[@davyboscart1089]

Great vid! The condensor once caused me problems. Replacing everything... Spark plugs, cables, rotor, rotor cap, contact point... It was the piece of 10€. 😬

[@ugrikapetanovic224]

If your contacts are blue and they became blue very fast it is condensor problem.

[@streetergary]

Also a plugged heat riser will cause the engine to stumble. this requires the intake manifold be removed and the carbon be cleaned out of the heat riser tube. Several methods are available but what i used to do was to poke a stiff wire into it to get a hole going. load it with oxygen gas, then light it off. this burns all the carbon out and allows proper heating of the tube to vaporize the fuel. Additionally, if someone has removed the cooling fins and thermostat from the car, it runs far too cool and will hesitate also. one other thing to mention, is that the 34 PICT-3 carburetor carried a 127.5 main metering jet. The carb has a 26 mm throat. It may be possible that putting a larger jet, such as a 130 or 132 will cure the trouble. The smaller jets were used for smog control. I hope this helps

[@rynhardniemand4998]

What is smog? 😅

[@amazeddude1780]

Regarding item #4: I believe that the 'spring' you are talking about in the choke housing is actually a bimetallic material that expands and contracts with temperature changes. That expansion/contraction causes the coil to open when heated and close when cold- this latter action closes the throttle to restrict the air though the venturi which speeds up the air, causing enrichment of the mixture. The idle speed is also increased by setting the fast idle cam. One pump of the accelerator sets the fast idle cam, activates the choke system while giving one shot of fuel to help prime the engine.

[@jamesbown1022]

My carb manual refer to it a 'bi-metallic spring'.

[@jacobkreider6751]

Anyone have any tips for a beetle that stalls? I have a 69 and replaced the breather and vent hoses in the hood coming off the tank and put a new fuel filter on. It’ll start and idle fine for about 5 mins and then will die. If I drive it it’ll be fine as long as I’m giving it gas but any time I slow down for traffic/stop signs the engine will die if I don’t give it gas. Not the most mechanically inclined but trying to learn. Thanks for any tips.

[@pattersonfilm9117]

Idle circuit issue, clogged, air fuel mixture screw not adjusted properly.

[@johnwarfn]

I once put a new gas tank in my Beetle without cleaning it out first. Big mistake! It clogged the carb and the car would barely run. A mechanic had to remove the tank, clean with solvent, blow out the fuel line, take apart and rebuild the carb. Then it ran fine. Beware of “cheap” parts that lead to breakdowns and expensive repairs.

[@brianchisnell1548]

And make sure you cave a clean (in tank) filter screen

[@brianchisnell1548]

Really lov'n the way my 40 runs with a restored 28 PICT-1 and a restored R-5 big cap dizzy. Smooth as silk. Just like when new. Good vid!

[@docscout]

It’s the perfect combo of carb and distributor. I’ve seen so many 009 distributors in various carb/engine combinations and they never run right. The 009 was designed to run flat out for things like farm equipment.

[@brianchisnell1548]

@@docscout Yes. Everyone wants the performance. I removed an H-30/31 and a V-06 dist. That came with the car. Good pick up, but no load sensing. Hard starting when hot and a stumble off idle. What I have now, is a perfect choke, idle and top speed of 72 mph and 30 mpg. ( Factoy spec. ) What it was... 74 mph and 25 mpg. 1964 sunroof bug. Cheers!

[@jamesschramm4739]

I need some suggestions, my 74 VW Beetle sat for about 3 years, long story....... But anyway, it wouldn't run so I replaced the Gas Tank which was rusted and also float. Replaced the fuel lines, filters including the Carb. and fuel pump. It still has a rough time running smooth. Whenever it was parked I had just replaced the gas tank, plugs, wires and adjusted the valves and was running better then ever. Anything you might suggest....... Thanks.

[@classicvwbugs]

I would take that carb off and open it up and do a cleaning.

[@lcwatts2971]

Hey dude! I'm new to the VW community. I'm having a "misfiring/backfiring" issue with my '68 Ghia and found your videos. Did you make the move to Florida??

[@classicvwbugs]

Yes I did

[@lcwatts2971]

@@classicvwbugs awesome! Well your tip about cleaning out the two little jets on the side of the carburetor worked for me. Thanks again!

[@jeffreykelley6077]

gotta quick question I acquired a 1776 vw engine. does anyone what the spark plug gap should be ? thanks

[@classicvwbugs]

.028

[@anonymousme8102]

Chris Vallone - my 66’ bogged out a few times and I found a hole in the intake manifold. Would a new manifold fix this issue?

[@classicvwbugs]

Where on the manifold?

[@anonymousme8102]

Chris Vallone hi... I had it replaced already:) I just thought I’d throw that comment in... it was weird. It just bogged out and stalled, it lost all power like it was getting to much gas or air😕 Thanks for all your videos. Hey can you post a video on how to install a bamboo tray under the dash with out drilling into the frame/vw, Please!

[@williamwhite6902]

Thank you! I've been watching your videos for years always helpful

[@classicvwbugs]

thank you!

[@JuanLima05]

My beetle starts fine 1 click. Idles fine also. But after car is warmed up. When i put throttle its not getting enough power ( it sounds like its choking and then it will stall ). Any ideas?

[@classicvwbugs]

I talk about that in this video, sounds like a classic choke issue. Try adjusting the choke.

[@stanleyngobeni1021]

Hi Chris Stan from South Africa. I want to buy a 1969 VW beetle and I want to know that can I put two carbs on the engine? Thank you

[@classicvwbugs]

Sure, but what is your plan? If you have never done it before, you should look to hire someone who has experience with that.

[@stanleyngobeni1021]

@@classicvwbugs thanks so much

[@monchy25]

Chris Vallone I was stubborn and tried to make a 34pict carb + empi 009 work at the end and after trying 3 different carbs ( all 34 pict) I gave up, recently put dual Kadrons and I score a Bosch 009 for free 😊 now my 1776 motor runs like a champ!!! All your videos are really helpful but us humans learn from trial and error, Lol

[@classicvwbugs]

Many times that is the best way.

[@rolandojuarez3393]

Can you do my floors I'll drive out to you and you can make video outa it😁

[@classicvwbugs]

Sure, cmon by!

[@rolandojuarez3393]

For reals man!! how far are you from the sfv area?

[@classicvwbugs]

@@rolandojuarez3393 San fran you mean? I'm not, I'm in NY.

[@rolandojuarez3393]

No san Fernando valley in cail... but thank for the offer any how

[@brianjohn2894]

Hi chris do you know why 2 same side 2 cylinders are not firing they were working but suddenly died changed sparks , leads,points, rotor ,cap new coil, still not firing just 1,2, are working

[@classicvwbugs]

Do you have spark to those cylinders? Did you cross wires by any chance?

[@brianjohn2894]

sorry for late reply the firing order is correct 1432 there is no spark on 3/4 1/2 are fine but misfiring i think the coil is weak thinking of replacing it and distributor would it help in bringing the car back to life

[@gorporpio]

It's probably an air leak at the intake manifold. But - are the plugs tight? Realize they're a cork for an explosion that occurs thousands of times per minute. 25 pounds. Ignore the 18 pound value from the factory.

[@CJ-nj6qb]

Hey Chris, Do you happen to have a video on how to replace a 1970 vw bug hood latch and cable?

[@classicvwbugs]

I do not yet, sorry.

[@wingsonmyback1]

my generator light has been coming on the whole time I run the engine, its not running the battery down but I hate driving it because of this. There isnt anyone in my town that fixes air cooled engines so I have to ask you.

[@classicvwbugs]

you need to get a voltmeter and check if your generator is putting out, and also check the regulator. Are you near the NY area? My shop can look at it.

[@wingsonmyback1]

No I am in Ohio, bummer@@classicvwbugs

[@classicvwbugs]

@@wingsonmyback1 people ship me cars from all over the USA. We could arrange it if need be.

[@wingsonmyback1]

What if I just bought a new generator. if the generator was not draining my battery what would you suggest I do then?@@classicvwbugs

[@jodiendoelnick]

Hi, Chris thanks for putting this info out there for all of us! I have a VW Beetle 1968 and it idles perfectly but sputters when I accelerate. It runs smooth right off the bat, warmed up or cold, when it's idling, it doesn't sputter or anything, It's only when i try to drive it when it starts acting up on me. Thanks in advance!

[@johncollins5552]

An engine under load needs a different amount of ignition advance and air/fuel ratio to idle. What I recommend is that you tune your carb using a vacuum gauge. Using a tee piece pop it onto the vacuum hose between the distributor vac. Can and the carb. Use it on a fully warmed up motor after a drive. Then you simply adjust the carb mix screw so that the gauge reads the highest vaccum level, that's in the minus number, in other words so the engine sucks the strongest, this gives the most efficient power your engine can make.

[@alphawindowsdoors9023]

i was wondering if you resolved this problem? i have the same issue,THanks

[@nikduffield5457]

Chris, can a dodgy vacuum advance seem like fuel starvation? I am looking at a bug with fuel starvation issues

[@nassar57]

So - I understand the potential gas leak hazard, but why no fuel filter in the engine compartment? I always had one there - far to the left of the distributor and coil towards #3 & 4 side - where I can see if it's dirty, replace it easily when needed, and where it's away from any electrical components. I ALWAYS use the factory type fuel hose, though. The stuff most auto part stores sell is close - but NOT correct in size. When I tried some - it was tough to get onto the filter and DID leak - so I stuck hose clamps on it, which had to be tightened so much to stop the leak that it constricted the plastic tube on the ejection side of the filter which gave me mixture issues. I'd had idle issues, mainly dying at idle, so tried looking at fuel system first and found this filter restriction. Went to stock German rubber/ cloth sheathed gas hose, installed a new filter, adjusted the carb (with it on the car) the way Chris recommended (mixture & idle both in all the way, 10 half turns out on mixture, 5 half turns out on idle, fine tune it after w engine running.) After that & tune up - the 1600 installed in my 64 Bug runs better than ever.

[@classicvwbugs]

so true!

[@sylviescopazzo2445]

Can you show a close up of where the jet is please

[@classicvwbugs]

@@sylviescopazzo2445 I have a video on Express carburetor cleaning, take a look at that in my KZbin. That will show you.

[@SimiNelsonFamily]

I drive my bug regularly and have had to clean jets and even change jet sizes depending on where I buy fuel. The bug does not like cheaper fuel with higher ethanol levels. So, I've tried to be more consistent on where I fill up with quality fuel. Ignition timing is pretty critical also in keeping the bug running and accelerating smoothly.

[@michaelnewbury7869]

Just wanted to say thanks for the video! A lot a good information here! I always get something out of your vids. Thank you

[@classicvwbugs]

thank you for watching.

[@Nick_Catania]

Great info! Thanks Chris! Some oil baths have pre-heat to help warm up the carb faster. Finding an original oil bath air cleaner is a good idea. The other thing I can think of is that some setups have a fuel pressure regulator. If set incorrectly could cause hesitation, stall, etc.

[@FunFun-tv7gq]

Great informative video as usual. Thank a lot Chris from Melbourne, Australia

[@classicvwbugs]

you are welcome!

[@nassar57]

8) Fat-footed gas pedal.

[@htxtexans7668]

1969 vw bug when i put it in reverse the vwdub turns off why, thanks

[@BeatleBaly]

My pict 30 is new but... it idles good, punch it great, In between sucks. Leaving stop slow is not possible, it falls on it's face. What is it?

[@classicvwbugs]

Yeah sounds like you need to clean that bad boy out, take it apart, dunk it, rebuild etc.

[@BeatleBaly]

@@classicvwbugs didn't help. All fuel items new. Acts like it suddenly needs more gas. Punch pedal it returns to good.

[@classicvwbugs]

@@BeatleBaly you need to tear it completely down, take out all the bbs.

[@ligerangry2621]

Any electrical info about ... when there is no sparkling in the distributor?

[@classicvwbugs]

Gotta check coil, points, condenser etc

[@ligerangry2621]

@@classicvwbugs tanks Chris... I'm going to check'em.

[@frankiefoster7697]

My Old Boss gave me his 1974 super beetle... I have no idea why I am doing, these videos are tremendous. Thank you

[@JosephDR]

Cool! Get it road worthy and have fun driving it. My first car was a '72 Super. It was a fun car. I don't really like supers but I had great memories with that car. I now drive a '64 bug.

[@nlnl4523]

Hesitation is normally caused by a air leak/vacuum leak. Normally cause the vacuum flow in the carb is not right.

[@jonwilmot5331]

Thanks for your great video. I have a 1600 dual port in a beach buggy in u.k. I have electronic ignition with a cheap Chinese carb off e bay. Today we took it off and adjusted the accelerator pump to come in earlier (right hand side against alternator) it's completely solved the hesitation problem. So hope that helps. Jon.

[@falconx5744]

Alot of people miss that on a carb, the adjustment of the carb accelerator pump is very important for a nice crisp throttle response 👍

[@isaacandhisgrandpasdailyli9199]

What can make your VW Beetle stall when going down the road and when you go to stop it stalls at a stop sign or stop light ?

[@eklein3904]

Vacuum leak somewhere between base of carby and heads.....is where I’d look first.

[@A61CORDE]

Hello , I had a similar issue. and I removed the carb clean it and put it back. but i could not be sure about the issue. any sugestion Chris.

[@bottmar1]

I found that the little brass accelerator pump tube that squirts gas down the throat of the carb. might be loose. I usually tap it down to make sure it is seated. One time I overhauled an engine and when started the engine started to hammer. I found that brass tube inside the engine being hammered by a piston. No harm done but had to dismantle part of the engine. I did not work on that carb. during the overhaul. Best advise is to always tap that tube down and see if it rotates too easy on any type of service you do.

[@normblais7527]

I had the same thing happened to me so I’m a little paranoid now I wiring a tether to the spout

[@KevinSchraff-zf9go]

I have a 70s beetle kit car I was running down the road at about 65 when it stalled out I filled gas tank and charged battery but it will not start. Only thing I changed was I removed a solenoid for the gauges because it was killing my battery any help I know very little about beetles

[@dragonsin1807]

My mom bought a 79 a couple years ago, it has always run and worked, we got it out of the shop for bodywork a year ago, it’s run up until now, just doesn’t start anymore, turns over but won’t start up, no clue what’s wrong with it, if anyone has any ideas please comment

[@allenrucker549]

Why does 1973 bug 1600cc. Dump gas into oil.

[@classicvwbugs]

ARE YOU PARKING ON AN INCLINE?

[@classicvwbugs]

OR THE NEEDLE AND SEAT IS NOT HOLDING IN THE CARB.

[@j.k.salser499]

You hit the nail on the head wit h your Number 1 discussion point--having the correct combination of Distributor and Carburetor. Just because something will fit into the space means nothing! Engineers went to a LOT of trouble to pair these two items which we commonly seem bent to tinker with! Thanks, Chris! jay

[@classicvwbugs]

You bet Jay, thanks for the comment.

[@jaredkomoroski]

I can't quite get this straight. Are 30, 36, and 40 horse motors all 1200 cc? What about the 1300, 1500, and 1600 cc motors (66 and later)? Are 25 horse motors 1000 cc? Were multiple motors available on a bug for some years? Link for a timeline of when which motors were available would be nice. You've been a huge inspiration and I've got a 65' in the garage that I'm now daily driving :) Thanks!

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

Your best bet for this information is the technical section at www.thesamba.com. 1300cc motors are 50hp, 1500cc was 53hp, and 1600cc are 60hp. In the US Beetles of a given year pretty much all came with the same engine, but in other parts of the world you could buy different models with different engines. For example in 1968 US Beetles came with 1500cc engines, while in Europe you could buy a VW 1200, a VW 1300, or a VW 1500. Aside from the obvious differences in engine size these models were also quite different regarding included amenities.

[@classicvwbugs]

Well, I guess to keep it easy, the 30 and 36 hp are 1192cc, the 40hp I believe they just went to 1200cc. The 1300cc, 1500cc, and 1600cc were all different HP. Check this out www.jbugs.com/VW-Tech-Article-Engine-Letter-Codes.html

[@jaredkomoroski]

I appreciate the clarification. Thanks 👍

[@brianchisnell1548]

@@jaredkomoroski the 40 is 1192cc, but the block is unique. 61 through 65 virtually unchanged except for heater design. 66 a new block started. VW was trying to keep up with the Datsuns and Toyota's. My '73 1600cc datsun had 90 hp. VW was never gunna compete. Cheers!

[@ravitmn]

I the car starts but when I shift the gear and move forward there is no power at all. Almost dies instantly. I checked the wires, condenser, I checked the jets and cleaned them, removed the main jet and cleaned that too. But still there is no power. Then I also have another problem of jerkiness while driving in different gears.

[@lindicc3898]

My 1970 beetle has been hesitating to start. It was working fine but after I gave it a car wash, I have had this problem. What could be the problem?

[@jacobevans7356]

I have a 1600cc single port that's a little hard to start but when I does it idles and can rev up and sound good but as soon as you out it in gear to drive it start sputtering and cutting out real bad what could that be??

[@classicvwbugs]

Pretty much what I state in this video.

[@limfavian2787]

hello im facing a problem with my 1974 super beetle. It does start up in the morning but when once i drive and stop somewhere for a while (i switched of the engine) , i cant seem to get the engine running unless i wait for a few minutes and sometimes it takes pretty long.

[@nlnl4523]

The injection should fan off of the inside tube so when fuel is injected its just not a jet that is pulled into any particular cyl...

[@nlnl4523]

If you have a clogged idle jet which is on the side of the carb the clogged jet will cause the car not too idle when all is adjusted right

[@tabfelts8155]

I have a ‘72 super beetle. Had carburetor issues and finally bought a new carb and replaced generator with alternator. Worked fine for a while but now it will not idle after it gets warmed up. Cold idles. Car sits a lot. Not driven much at all because afraid it want make it home. Why does it idle fine when cold but not when warm?

[@brucekazakos8647]

Hi Chris. I Have a 77 VW Combi. The Problem is this. If i press the Gas pedal past the halfway mark,and take my foot of the gas pedal,the Engine dies out. But if i press the pedal just before the halfway mark,the engine idles fine with no problems at all. Any Suggestions?

[@classicvwbugs]

Yeah I would take that carb off and do a good cleaning, take out all the jets and BBs and dunk it. You could also check points or timing to before you do that.

[@brucekazakos8647]

@@classicvwbugs Thank you for your quick response. Much appreciated.

[@AirkooledKustoms]

good content

[@JMKGarage]

Good information shared here 👍

[@lesliemello7358]

I've been working on a 1968 that we've had sitting for 14 years (long story) and your videos have been lifesavers! Anyways about the gas tank. Mine is rusty...do you suggest cleaning it out best I can and reusing or just getting another one? If you think cleaning it out is good what would be your method?

[@classicvwbugs]

For a 68, I would get a new one, they are readily available.

[@robertmudrow3617]

Acid works great.

[@jonathanfrank1073]

Hey Chris - so of those possible issues, if the car idles great and accelerates upward just fine w the fuel trigger while sitting in the driveway, but can barely accelerate at all while actually driving (until rpms are finally high), any thoughts on which problem I have at hand. Just figured I’d ask :) Thanks! - jon

[@classicvwbugs]

Check valves and compression, even fuel flow.

[@jonathanfrank1073]

Will do. Thanks for replying. I appreciate it!

[@jr.classics6190]

Great Video Chris.. I just purchased a 58 Beetle.. it was running great, until a week ago, i noticed it began to shut off on me as i approached a stop... it could be anything that you mentioned in this Video.. Thank you again. I'm always learning something new from all your Videos.. Awesome 👌

[@jackrpool]

Hi Chris, question for you. My 1970 bug starts great, idles well after warm and drives well. However, after I run an errand or go for a cruise, the bug won't idle high enough after restarting without feathering the throttle. Any ideas? Thanks!

[@sirernest7]

Check the air/fuel mix screw .

[@joebruno2675]

How about some EFI beetle videos. Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection vs carb and what alternatives. The pros and cons. I have a 77 with Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.

[@classicvwbugs]

I never work on fuel injected really.

[@tomstulc9143]

Where can I get a good electronic distributor not Chinese made electronic ignition for a 1600 ?

[@orbitaljellyfish808]

Also check for manifold heat, which could be low due to clogged heat risers. Anything other than original exhaust system will not force enough exhaust gas into the risers to warm the fuel a stock engine would consume. Add a header and now there’s more potential fuel and less potential heat. Manifold less than 105* F means fuel can stick to it rather than be used and thus lean hesitation with big gulps of air/fuel (off idle throttle hits). Even with short runner dual carbs it’s an issue. I’ve added ceramic heaters to mine and some 70+ amps of current to heat the manifolds. The heaters and epoxy also insulate so they’re not always on. It’s a solution and makes good power but wow a stock setup would be so much easier lol

[@GuyFromSouthAfrica]

Hi Chris. Ellis all the way from South Africa Cape Town. I have a 1971 1600 Twin Port. My beetle chokes on lower revs on gear 1 and 2. It also chokes when turning either left or right but after i turn it goes fine. Also have a problem of the engine cutting out when idling. Sometimes it happens sometimes not. Any thought what i should look at?

[@classicvwbugs]

yeah gotta check the carb, take it off and do a clean.

[@wilcaillier7409]

I just checked my beetle and my auto choke hasn't got a wire on it and I haven't seen any loose ones hanging around, how would I get that wired up so I don't have to nurse it whenever I start my car?

[@classicvwbugs]

It is usually a Y connection black wire from the choke, to the idle solenoid then to the + on the coil.

[@crankbait09]

thank you for the video. I'm actually fighting with this now. Luckily, it's close to winter so this will be a good time to dig into the bug since I won't have to worry about any car shows. Would any of these topics (1-7) cause fuel to go into the oil? That's another issue I have going on right now too.

[@classicvwbugs]

Hmmm that is your needle and seat in the top of the carb maybe. Do you park on any sort of tilt? Nose up?

[@crankbait09]

@@classicvwbugs no, car is parked level, in the garage. I was told to check the fuel pressure coming from the fuel pump. Will begin troubleshooting tomorrow. Since I saw this video, it made me think about the 1-7 you covered. Thanks for responding.

[@eliashernandez9056]

@Lawrence Haughton what brand fuel pump did you installed

[@brucehatch6415]

Bad fuel pump diaphragm.

[@mrfayetteville91]

She wanted to paint it purple but unfortunately the fumes went straight to her head

[@jamalgolden4871]

So replacing my fuel filter won’t stop the sputtering ?

[@wyomikey65]

I don't know if thiswas covered in the comments but another place to check is for a worn throttle shaft. I have run into this a few times

[@dougcurtis578]

I used cleaner on the jet, it shot back at me instead of through it. Do I need new jet?

[@classicvwbugs]

You can try sending a small pin through it to dislodge the debris maybe. Or soak it overnight in carb dip.

[@dougcurtis578]

@@classicvwbugs Thanks!

[@WolfHausMotorwerks]

what electronic ignition do you use on the 6V cars?

[@VallonesRCHobby]

I don't. Not on 6v

[@estilholliday5546]

Also with the 34pict3 and 009 dizzy combo, blocking off the hole in the lower butterfly plate will help with that flat spot.

[@karlreinke9653]

The fuel cut off solenoid can go bad causing a bad rough running engine.

[@peterelder5879]

Hello, I have a type 3 1600 duel carbs, the right side carb seems to not run as good, I have rebuilt it but still not acts right. Idles good but when I go to take off, it boggs down like starving for gas or floating out, I have no idea. It also runs real rich, I can smell raw gas

[@classicvwbugs]

have you tried adjusting the fuel mixture screw?

[@peterelder5879]

@@classicvwbugs yes I've tried some, had a shop get it running better so I could get it to a show in Eureka Springs Ar, but its still really doggy....... I'm sure IF I had the motor rebuilt it mite solve my issues, but thats not possible rite now..............

[@irvingchavez1516]

Hey Chris great video! I have a ‘74 bug that runs good until I hit about 65-70MPH and then starts choking up and stalling on me. I have to pull over and let it resettle. Any recommendations?

[@classicvwbugs]

Hmmm sounds like fuel restriction. Bad fuel pump maybe? Check fuel flow.

[@sirernest7]

I have a 1776cc dual port intake with a Holley progressive dual port carb. I only have a flat spot if i give it gas quickly. What can i do? I just bought a vaccum advance distributor. And it didnt go away .

[@bmpvw]

Have you been able to solve your problem yet?

[@jedclampett6466]

Thanks.....tip number one is my obvious problem.

[@bolti1000]

Chris interesting - thanks - so I have a question in regards to the coil. In most of the images you show it has the coil pointing downward with one pointing upwards. Being oil filed coils, if it is pointed upward does this stress the upper wire locations from electrical stress by possibly not being submerged in the oil? Thanks Sid

[@classicvwbugs]

I don't think so.

[@philharrison1297]

very well simply explained and thank you .. dead spot in 2nd sorted

[@bugmevideo4269]

Hi Chirs, thank you for your videos, and specifically for this one. You just mentioned about a problem that I am having with my beetle, I am not being able to adjust the idle speed in my bug's engine, I even changed for an old carburator that I have but the problem is still there, which makes me think that I am having a vacum leak somewhere in the manifold. I sprayed water on the carburator and on the manifold base expecting to hear a change in the engine sound to try to find out where the leak is coming from but nothing happens, the question is: Do I have to take off the black metal sheets that covers the base of the manifold so that when I spray the water it can really reach where the manifold and the block meets? if that doesn't work I don't know where else to look for the problem. Thank you very much!!!

[@classicvwbugs]

Any ports on the carb that is not plugged?

[@bugmevideo4269]

@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris, I just re checked and everything is where it is supposed to be..So do I have to take off the metal sheets when spraying the water? thank you for your reply.

[@classicvwbugs]

@@bugmevideo4269 nah

[@bugmevideo4269]

@@classicvwbugs thanks!

[@jonathanferro8211]

Hey Chris thanks for all your great informative videos have a question I live in Florida what oil would you recommend for a 1600 duel port motor I find a lot of different information online

[@classicvwbugs]

Well I always tell folks 10-30w oil or straight 30w, basic oil, you do not need anything fancy. Try that first and see how you do. If anything you could try straight 40w or 10-40w. Shouldn't need anything more than that.

[@beaupopp1265]

I need help! I have a 67 beetle that won’t maintain a steady speed. It’s accelerating or decelerating all the time. I tried everything. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[@classicvwbugs]

well, kinda need some more detail. Is she running hot? Are all of your engine seals in place? What kind of compression do you have? Any endplay? What are valves set to? timing? etc etc

[@beaupopp1265]

Thanks so much for replying! I have learned so much from you and your dad. The videos are fantastic! I will keep chasing the problem. I’m hooked on VDUB’s. 67 Beetle, 67 Ghia, 75 Dune Buggy. Hope to come on one of your car Cruisers sometime.

[@brianchisnell1548]

I found that my in tank filter was restricting flow. With a full tank, fuel should flow freely to the carb inlet.

[@famcontreras93]

Maybe a video on idle stall... Bugs been driving running fine and started to notice it wants to stall at idle...

[@classicvwbugs]

Got it, I have an express carb rebuild video.

[@sethjensen1723]

Awesome video. So I was a complete idiot and accidentally left the light on after I parked my 63 bug. Luckily about an hour after that, I saw it and turned them off. At first the battery wasnt giving very much power to the engine and it wasn't turning over. I jumped the car and it was running well. Today two days later, when I turned it on, it was having a hard time with the battery again so I gave it a second jump and drove it around for a bit. The thing is that it drove great, but the red light on the dash that tells you if the generator is working started to blink. Not a solid red color, but just slow blinking. Im here at home reading my How to keep your vw alive book and I'm following the procedures for the red light, but I'm not seeing any info on what to do if the light blinks. And even stranger enough, when I turn the lights on, it stops blinking. Any advice on whether its something with the generator or if its a wiring issue? I guess every once in a while, it takes learning the hard way to learn to always double check if the lights are left on. Haha

[@classicvwbugs]

did you try charging the battery? If the red light goes out when you hit the pedal a bit, it could be your idle might just be a lil low.

[@sethjensen1723]

I'll give it a try. Thank you

[@A61CORDE]

hello, and thank you for your tips.

[@classicvwbugs]

thank you for coming by the channel.