Bronze Acme Nut for Lead Screw Part 1

[@ScoutCrafter]

STILL the best machining content on KZbin...

[@djamelhamdia134]

Hey, nice to see you here, John! And I agree with you by the way.

[@Chaplain_GM]

This is Why i watch you Adam The skill and Professionalism and attention to detail cannot be taught from a book, It has to be hands on real work experience and you even admit when you fail... This is the definition of a master craftsman. God Bless you and Abbie. ❤🙏🏽👊🏽

[@johndonlan5956]

I agree completely! Very well said!!!! 👍

[@johndonlan5956]

Oh Adam..... That use of the Dead center for indicating the bronze center hole in the jaws.....that blew me away! I've never seen that done before..... But it's brilliant!!! 😉 And don't worry about sounding 'nasal' old buddy....... I think all of us would watch your videos even if you just used sign language -- they're that good!

[@imkindofabigdeal4308]

Love that Fex Arm. Done a fair amount of rigid tapping on my mill but that little bit of wiggle room and the hydro drive - seems like the bees knees.

[@bert7328]

Clever use of the centres for dialing that nut in. Respect!

[@james02mustang]

I'd go for a "Loosen Lows, Tighten Highs" T-shirt

[@micahwinters7021]

I just love videos. I love watching them on Saturday afternoons just relaxing

[@Discretesignals]

When you stated that you were excited about trying out that giant acme tap I could picture your flex arm going, "Oh Jesus!".

[@Ddabig40mac]

Thanks for taking the time to show a few different set ups for indicating a part in the 4 jaw. I find that helpful.

[@charliemacrae1045]

GreT to see you working between the two shops. Great convenience. Good work on the bronze parts too.👍

[@warbird099]

Since I am new to machining, I really like videos like this where you show all the steps for indicating an irregular shaped piece in a 4-jaw chuck. Great video! Thank you!

[@jeffwisemiller3590]

Want to see off-center machining, head over to CEE AUS, The piece he machined was 6" thick & 8-10" long. Bet that was an off center load.

[@just.some.dud3]

Good stuff Adam! The lighting and video footage in the new shop looks amazing. :)

[@jasongram1287]

24:05 That sounds like when I try to open the bathroom door slowly at night. Thanks for the in depth walk through all of this. I know you're slowing yourself down by bringing us along, but it's appreciated. I have some brass to drill some holes in at home, and the reminder about brass wanting to grab probably saved me a nasty surprise with a drill press. I'll probably hand drill it to make sure it doesn't grab.

[@djamelhamdia134]

It sounds like the refrigerator door when taking a sneaky snack in the middle of night.

[@ellieprice363]

Hand drilling is even worse than drill press and can break your arm if you’re not careful. Hone a small neutral flat on both cutting edges of drills to remove the “hook” and stop drills from grabbing.

[@jasongram1287]

Oh, I mean arm power only, no motor.

[@logan_e]

I know 'how' to operate a lathe and milling machine but I'm still little more than an amateur machinist even after almost 60 years a mechanic, I have to say I'm impressed with the way Adam used the dead center and live center to indicate the work! Very cool trick!

[@blh3741]

That pic sure as heck looks like the pipes I made in high school metal shop....41 years ago! :~)

[@bobh64]

Fun watching the new shop full then empty then full. :}

[@bigboreracing356]

It took me three attempts to make a bronze lead screw nut for the cross slide of my Colchester Clausing 13" lathe. The third attempt was my forth time to ever cut threads. My very first time cutting threads was last month and they were external. I posted a seven part video series on the nut. The videos explain my struggle. Part 4 shows how I made the second nut work Part five shows how well a 6 TPI nut works on the 5 TPI lead screw. Part 6 shows how I discovered my mistake and Part 7 shows the result of making the correct thread pitch nut. I mentioned your channel as I was indicating the nut on the four jaw because your video on the subject is how I learned how to indicate on the 4 jaw. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@scose]

cool trick indicating with the dead center!

[@BruceBoschek]

I remember bronze "shrinking" after boring or tapping. I'm not surprised it was tight. Lovely job on that thread. Looking forward to seeing the rest come together. Thanks for another excellent video.

[@daleburrell6273]

...the way I figured it, was the hole in the bronze was expanded during the tapping process, and then it shrunk again- that's why the screw was tight.

[@johndonlan5956]

You have to pay a few cents more for the non-shrinking bronze. Apparently Adam did this job "on the cheap"! 😋

[@daleburrell6273]

@@johndonlan5956 ...as I recall, Adam was using material that he had on hand.

[@johndonlan5956]

Sorry Dale, I was just making a joke. There is no such thing as non-shrinking bronze.

[@daleburrell6273]

@@johndonlan5956 ...I didn't think so.

[@davidmott2090]

Adam eye-balls it and says 'probably 10 thousandths' then measures it at 11 thousandths :)) a master at work

[@johnchamberlain5435]

I like how when Adam is centering a workpiece, he gets within two or three thou and says, "That's close enough," then keeps going to get it zeroed exactly. "Close enough" just isn't close enough. When it comes to machine work, perfectionism isn't a bug, it's a feature!

[@joshclark44]

I was thinking the same thing! 😂 like man that guy is good!

[@johndonlan5956]

I don't know, Adam...... You better get your eyeball recalibrated...... You were off by a thousandth or two! 😉

[@andypandy9931]

Bronze always closes down after cutting, we used to allow +,002" on diameters to allow for this.

[@dougbourdo2589]

Nice, Fun & Interesting to see the new equipment and old pieces like the lathe tool holders working together.

[@bennyfactor]

That big acme tap is gonna be something else! Great to see you using your new machines to work on fixing the vintage one.

[@carloantoniomartinelli5418]

I am sure I echo all your followers in wishing you a very fast recovery. Get well soon.

[@colinfahidi9983]

"Loosen your lows, tighten your highs!" - a great title for a Country n' Western song.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

I guess sometimes taps need a spring pass too :-) I expect the power tapping warmed up and expanded the bronze ever so slightly, making the threads on size for that temperature, but then when it cooled to natural temp it was slightly tight again. Edit: Sorry - looks like lots of others commented the exact same thing.

[@nickolasjones9212]

I've learned a lot about machining from you and others on the you-of-tubes. Making things helps me deal Combat Related PTSD (Creative Therapy), and then I sell whatever I make on Etsy (as per my Better Half's "request" (LoL)) The only problem I have being Medically Retired from the work force and not having the funds to stock up on materials such as Brass to keep making things. An I'm sure there are tools that would help as well, but it is what it is. Please keep making great videos that I can learn from; and maybe I'll be able to practice what I'm learning one day.. Take Care and Stay Safe. "Go Hard... Be Humble..."

[@chestervaldes7551]

Sir, you are an artist.

[@billabernathy1541]

Great video, Adam. Your explanation and instruction are great. I enjoy seeing you indicate a part. The threading is a nice piece of work with that two-stage tap. I am looking forward to seeing some CNC action as well. Thanks for sharing,

[@izzynutz2000]

all the years I've been Machining, using that dead center and indicator to Center up that hole I've never seen before.. the way I was taught to do it on an offset hole like that in between Jaws was to just use a plain 60° dead center ( or whatever degree Center you have as long as they're mating ) open up the Jaws on the Chuck, use your tail stock and quill to pinpoint and press your work up against the back of the chuck then bring your jaws down to meet your work evenly ..once it's tight, remove your tail stock and dead center that should put you right on the money.. that's the way I was taught.. I wish I had a shop because I'd get up and go down into the shop and test it to see which one's better.. thanks for the tip Adam.. another useful tool for the Arsenal..

[@chucksmalfus9623]

Using the live and dead center method is more accurate, Just lining up a center will always be at least a few thousandths out no matter how carefully you try to line it up, the few thousands out really doesn’t matter in this instance but it’s nice to know how to get it dead nuts when needed.

[@markshort9098]

I use the tail stock like that but i wouldn't say it gets dead nuts on, it's a good way to get it close though.. i done that trick yesterday but it's just a burnt out 5/8" thick disc that needs to be bored so a piece of 2" round can be welded in ready for the next opp so a couple of thou out doesn't matter at this stage

[@ArtisticLifePhoto]

Nice work! If it was me I would cut those radius features first, then turn the remainder in the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. Gives you more to grip for the milling operation.

[@nickblood5040]

Glad you are well Adam

[@erneststorch9844]

To keep a twist drill from hogging in brass and bronze put a small flat on the cutting edge no larger than 1/32" parallel to the center line of the drill. This will make the cutting edge 0 degree rake and will stop the pulling.

[@johndonlan5956]

That's exactly what an old tool maker taught me years ago!

[@larrysmurthwaite773]

That’s an ABOM size flex arm, so impressive how much torque that has!

[@LifetimeinWelding]

I was getting quite excited to view the cutting of lefthand thread on the lathe. The tap was an alternative method. Nice relaxed video.

[@ericmiller5559]

Squeal! LOL nice work Adam.

[@patrickcolahan7499]

Always learn something new regarding setting up and taking measurements. Thanks very much for sharing.

[@DavesRocketShop]

Your hand tapping near the end got the dog's attention!

[@BruceBoschek]

Ditto! 😁

[@mongomay1]

thanks Adam

[@mustafatoruk1791]

Excellent work as always 👏👏

[@BedsitBob]

Double Boost (John Mills) uses a trick for quickly getting it very close, before indicating with the dead centre. With the chuck jaws opened wide, he places the point of the tailstock mounted live centre in the drilled centre, pressing the workpiece against the face of the chuck, and brings the jaws in until they just touch the workpiece, leaving him close to centred.

[@mftmachining]

I know...not workin here, cause of the big trough hole in his chuck.

[@markshort9098]

That only works on larger parts unless you stick something behind it so it doesn't disappear up the head stock

[@BedsitBob]

@@markshort9098 You mean like a parallel?

[@markshort9098]

@@BedsitBob yeah it's just something to cover the hole but then you either have to get it out or tape it in so it doesn't fly out, sometimes it's just easier to indicate in the whole way than stuff around trying to hold parallels and the part while winding the tail stock all at the same time

[@hansdietrich83]

24:49 a rare sight, a genuine Abom Smile

[@utidjian]

He smiles a lot more these days. I suspect part of it is Abbie and part of it is he is a lost happier building his new shop and getting shiny new stuff... what's not to smile about?

[@zeuss194]

This could have been a good candidate for thread milling on your cnc mill

[@matthewchastain136]

probably a pretty expensive thread milling cutter i would bet.

[@Vampier]

Sounds like a good workout

[@bucknaked31]

Yeah, because threadmilling is a great thing to start doing for a beginner who just got his first CNC… 😂

[@AlejoMX5]

@@bucknaked31 Im sorry? You ovbiiusly start on CNC cylinder head porting, of course!

[@stevendephillips2490]

Learned something. Centering the square stocks center drill hole with a 4 jaw. Thanks!

[@mdouglaswray]

Sorry your sniffer is stopped up! Glad you got it hoovered. Hope it comes back 100% right!

[@harrywhalen3571]

Don't be blaming Abbie I learn something new every time one of your vids airs Thanks A&A

[@paulvilleneuve9628]

First of all I love your videos! I’m a novice and I’ve learned a lot watching your videos. I just noticed how you centered the tool bit. I never saw you do that before. I watch Joe Pie. and he showed how to make a height adjustment tool. That’s what I’ve been using with good results, but I’m going to try the way you did it. Thanks for helping this novice!

[@paulvilleneuve9628]

I don’t have telegram to reply back from email I received.🤷‍♂️

[@mrlikwid100]

I have to say you make some excellent videos

[@markfritz315]

At 29:00 when you were manually tapping the hole my dog was really concerned with the squeaking. He must have thought something was in pain.

[@smc4229]

That flex arm is the coolest thing ever. I don't even do any machining and I want one

[@guygfm4243]

So long since I used inches and fractions. Thanks for sharing

[@Screws619]

Tapping bronze by hand would make a great coyote call 😬

[@loydsa]

Excellent teamwork as always Adam 🙂

[@VaughanNaidoo]

Would have loved to have seen how you counter weight the chuck in order to increase speed.

[@rodneywroten2994]

Thanks for sharing

[@karm65]

amazing how much the heat swell from the taping affects Bronze can affect the size.

[@KG-yn9qi]

Nice thank you👍🏻🇺🇸 know cool to see all other things going on , but nice to see some work getting done !

[@ocintataable]

Omslachtig werk, dat eerste gat!

[@JohnSmith-sf8gj]

Well, that's out of my league!

[@rolandolievanoagudelo.5112]

Muy buen trabajo maestro 👍

[@KTX666]

In my experience, making tons and tons of nuts for propellershafts, if you run the tap in dry, it'll fit the first time... Bronze doesn't want to be cut, so if you lube it, you're helping the material win and not the tool 😉 sharp tools and no lube is the way to go 👍

[@iamkilroiyo]

So the oil allows the tap to slide and not to sheer?

[@georgemiller6930]

Well this is an interesting comment lol. Now I'm confused as hell! 🤣

[@KTX666]

@@iamkilroiyo that's my experience 👍

[@jdgower1]

When a tap works and squalls that much on a first power cut, always do spring passes until it shuts up and plays nice. Funny how much more you can feel a tap that size twist when doing it by hand, and if you think about it, a twisted tap (or any rod/cylinder) is at least a few tenths off to the small side of spec.

[@nalinux]

I took a lesson about indexing. Thanks.

[@jmpattillo]

The sound of turning that tap by hand could be used to call coyotes

[@Joe___R]

Any theories as to why it had to be tapped twice? My theory is that power tapping caused the brass to heat up & expand so after it cooled down it was undersized. This explains why the the lead screw was able to start but not go through the nut. The second tapping pass done by hand didn't create much heat so it was able to cut it to size when cold.

[@ronnydowdy7432]

Nailed it. It's what happens with brass or bronze when tapping straight through and not stopping especially with ACME threads

[@georgemiller6930]

Wow, just learned something new!! Thanks guys!!

[@johncrisman576]

That tapping was amazing to watch. I do not understand the geometry of that tap but interesting, just the same.

[@garymurt9112]

He explained it a few videos ago. The first section cuts the threads and the second section cuts the shape of the threads

[@an2thea514]

First section is cutting same pitch 60°V Threads to get some material away, second Section cuts the actual Acme Thread

[@alveesee]

Cool saw

[@АлександрБлизнюк-ф3м]

Россия смотрит !!! Ваша работа завораживает !!! Мира и добра !

[@fergusonhr]

You could put it in the freezer for a few minutes then run the tap through again too if if was still too tight...

[@markshort9098]

That's a good idea but there would be more clearance grains to be had by heating the tap in boiling water or hot oil if even more clearance was needed

[@elchuco00]

MAN!! That precision lathe sounds so good, it's like the Cadillac of lathes. Great vid! Hope you get well soon brother.

[@thomasechols8834]

I think the Pacemaker is tops.

[@thedge7]

Apparently I don't know what off camera means ...

[@ThatGuy-fi9bm]

Lol, the second drilling has better camera angles though. Maybe he was trying something out

[@Cookerab]

That Flex arm makes all the difference I bet with that ACME tap.

[@dangodbout7818]

A good trick to drilling bronze or plastic is by honing a small radius on the corner of your drill.

[@markshort9098]

Putting flats at the cutting edge to make a neutral cutting edge is the normal way to brass off a bit, people who do lots of yellow metal often have 2 sets of drills but for most people, it's just take it easy with a bit sharpened for steel and don't step drill

[@johndonlan5956]

An old tool maker taught me that trick..... To put a small flats on the leading lips of the drill point...... Because brass and bronze will grab the drill and try to draw it in (possibly break it) if the drill point is dead Sharp.

[@JebJulian]

Wish you the best of luck at the Saunders CNC classes. You have a lot of work ahead of you. Cad is another world which takes a bit to get used to. 3d objects on a flat screen takes a bit to get your head around. You'll get there and I can't wait to see what you do with your cnc Machines

[@GavinPeters]

I suspect the need for running the tap through a second time, by hand. Is probably due to heat expansion. I'm not a materials guy but I think Bronze expands more due to heat than tool steel. Please, anyone, let me know if this is incorrect. This is the first of your videos I've seen, won't be the last.

[@bluebanana6753]

Snug is good with brass. Take a drill run it through. Then use some kinds of lapping compound untill it runs smoot enough. Then you will have a custom fitted nut to the thread you cut in the lathe. Perfect angle matching and all

[@virginian7317]

Since you had to chase the threads, that means the tap, on first entry, extorted the walls while cutting. It would be cool to see how much it pushed out on the walls when tapping. Maybe put an indicator on the outside wall so we can see how much it actually distorts the surface and if it goes back when the tap is done. I would assume it does by the fact that chasing the threads gets itt to the right size.

[@matthewperlman3356]

It may also be thermal expansion from the harder first cut, and then ends up small after cooling. Brass and I believe bronze as well have very high thermal expansion rates.

[@Co-SS]

man first look I thought you were making a proto pipe mod :)

[@ВладиславЧепкасов-б9ю]

Спасибо за видео, Адам! Вот это я понимаю, оснащение. Нам бы такой инструмент. А то режем внутреннюю трапецию резцом! Удачи в работе!

[@tmackinator]

I had a job once where we had to tap a 1/4" 2 start acme thread into brass. The way it screamed, even with a fresh tap a nd fluid was very unnerving. The tap never broke though even after many pieces.

[@Psychlist1972]

Monster tap

[@wmweekendwarrior1166]

Good stuff

[@jimsmusicify]

Adam, I've got an 1-3/4x4 2 stage tap for you to try.

[@karimizir7774]

Thanks for this video..verry good work

[@notapplicable2515]

I love your show Adam~!

[@philipp594]

Mill the radius first after tapping. You can put both of them in the vise at the same time like that.

[@keithjurena9319]

Balloon sinuplasty works. You will have some scabs coming out in a few days, about and inch long and 120 thousandths in diameter. Fun times.

[@JCWren]

I didn't need to read that :)

[@johndonlan5956]

TMI.... For sure.

[@andersjjensen]

Is that 120 thou full stop, or 120 thou +/- some tolerance?

[@keithjurena9319]

@@andersjjensen Depending on anatomy and how much pressure the doctor used. I was zoned out on Ativan (a benzodiazapine like Xanax) but still recall the sounds of bones being crushed. Recovery was quick, only the snot scabs were an issue. Looked like a ascarid in shape and color but no movement. Now septoplasty surgery a few months prior was brutal. Couldn't breathe through my nose for a week

[@StormbringerMM]

Ooo nice I need to make a new one as well thanks!!!

[@abbasahmed9288]

You should make parts now on Cnc

[@matthewpeck4016]

Adam, I always love your videos. Thanks so much for the education and entertainment you give us. Just curious, did you jump on Jason's hardtail pre-order? I did, and I genuinely cant justify that much vise, but I've always been a better-too-much-tool-than-too-little kinda guy. I think I might have gone way-too-much-tool this time 😂 But I'm still happy to support people like him, so c'est la vie.

[@tangomike7]

It must be frustrating having to compromise the accuracy of the piece to keep the sponsors happy. That's the only reason I can find not to tap the hole in the same setup as when you bored it. Do you feel conflicted doing it this way, given you've built your reputation on following best practice?

[@2packs4sure]

So you're not supposed to reverse that acme tap out ??

[@grahamstretch6863]

No, because it is 2 stage tap there is too much risk of misalignment of the lower (first cut) section which could destroy the thread if you try to reverse it out.

[@2packs4sure]

@@grahamstretch6863 Thanks !

[@martineastburn3679]

On your acme rod you made - did you cut a slot down it to clear dirt and metal ? Might help on tight fits. A hole expands when hot, so it might have been hot and cut threads, when it cooled it was tight. That is my educated guess. Good catch.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@thomasbecker9676]

I have to buy a new one of these for my little Atlas, so it'll be interesting in seeing how one would go about making one.

[@NSResponder]

Curious why you didn't just do the boring and champhering on a drill press. Wouldn't that save you a fair bit of set-up time?

[@ydonl]

Drills make pretty crummy holes, usually somewhere near where you actually want them. Reamers are a little better; at least the holes get rounder and straighter. Lathes make really nice holes, the right size, in the right place, straight, smooth, perpendicular, very round.

[@ellieprice363]

Drill press is the wrong machine for this job for many reasons. This is a one in a century replacement screw and nut so setup time is not as important as getting it right.

[@an2thea514]

@@ydonl he was at the edge of vibration, this hole would have been more accurate in the mill

[@an2thea514]

@@ellieprice363 A Mill is just as accurate as a Lathe, not a Drill Press

[@paulhunt598]

I think that I missed something in this setup... Adam located a thread drill hole center, but I didn't see him do this (maybe I dozed off). He used this center to locate the hole center in the lathe 4 jaw chuck using the dead center trick. I like this method. It is much better than trying to use a test indicator in the tiny center hole. How did he register the square stock flat in the 4 jaw chuck. Did he use a parallel behind the stock or seat it against the chuck face? How will he pick up perpendicularity to the tapped bore to turn the stem? It seems to me that the stem shank must be perpendicular to the thread to prevent screw binding. The square stock will all be machined away so it isn't required for final part registration. I think that I would have marked a registration surface from the original square stock since the part can be flipped 180 degrees and the square stock parallelism isn't validated. I am wondering if he could turn a registration bar to the thread minor diameter and indicate from the lathe cross slide to ensure that he turns the stem perpendicular to the tapped hole. Is my concern or question valid? Is the stock material flat adequate for registration?

[@TT-mu9jo]

Was just about to ask the same.

[@andersjjensen]

Your concern is valid. And if this had all been made out of tool steel it would probably had become an issue. But Brass is rather forgiving. If it isn't dead nuts on the perpendicularity either the forces of the machine will make it conform or the clearance will eat it up (he could wiggle the lead screw a bit). Obviously if the stock had been outright questionable on the flats it would have been a different matter.

[@nrok113]

yeah I'm not sure the whole is square to the block unless he just didn't show indicating it in that direction

[@utidjian]

I was thinking about this also. The axis of round part of the nut (the spigot?), which has yet to be turned, needs to be square to the long axis of the threaded hole. One way to insure this would have been to face the whole side of the block when he bored the hole. Doing so would pretty much guarantee a reference surface that is square to the hole. Or another way to say it, the hole would be normal to that surface. The other sides don't really matter.* Then when he sets it up on the lathe he can indicate along that surface to insure it is parallel to the ways of the lathe before turning. He did face the ends but aren't as big a reference surface. *The other alignment that is important is having the axis of the spigot in the same plane as the axis of the threaded hole (coplanar.) It may not make much difference but whatever the difference is it will be most noticeable when the nut is closes to the bearings. One way to insure they are coplanar would be to have turned the spigot first then do the drilling, boring, and threading features with the spigot mounted in a V-block on the mill. Another would be if the hole is centered along the short axis of the nut when he marked it on the mill and then centered it on the lathe to within a TIR of 0.0005" he can indicate it off the sides he used to center it on the mill. (Hope that makes sense! ) Maybe Adam has another trick up his sleeve. I am sure this is not the first time Adam has made a leadscrew and nut. In any case... I am very interested to see how it turns (no pun intended) out.

[@sadmule]

Hate tapping acme thread, got parts I convert on rebuild at work to acme xand tapping through steel is such a pain for how big threads are. Can hear your power tap not liking brass too much, be interested to see how it works on steel. I end up using lathe to spin workpiece n have tap held n tap wrench on carrige with live center in tail of tap to be able to get done

[@crabmansteve6844]

He's power tapped steel before and it works perfectly, Brass is just awful to tap. Lol Screeches like a banshee.

[@firesurfer]

Are modern bronze alloys the same? Looking at the wiki, there used to be quite a variation. I guess anything different would be special order.

[@TheQuantumFire]

Have you thought about remaking lead screws and nuts for the Monarch to fix the threading issue you had earlier? Renewing the Monarch parts would be a interesting series.

[@daleburrell6273]

...I'm pretty sure that making the necessary new parts for the Monarch lathe, would be beyond the capacity of the machines in Adam's shop. To restore the accuracy that the Monarch lathe had when it was new, it would be necessary to send the Monarch lathe back to the manufacturer.

[@an2thea514]

I'm not sure there is anything wrong with the monarch, other than the halfnut, which he could do himself. As many commenters pointed out, he didn't do some things on the monarch that he did on the PM, almost as if he wanted his old lathe to fail.

[@daleburrell6273]

@@an2thea514...YOU CAN BET THAT THE LEAD SCREW ON THE MONARCH IS WORN TOO- I SEEM TO RECALL THAT ADAM MENTIONED THAT HE MONARCH WAS MADE IN 1943- YOU CAN'T POSSIBLY EXPECT A MACHINE THAT OLD TO BE AS ACCURATE AS WHEN IT WAS NEW-(!) ANYWAY, IT'S ADAM'S BUSINESS WHICH MACHINE HE USES.

[@ellieprice363]

Probably nothing wrong with the Monarch parts. He was pushing his luck on the first screw by not using lubricant or a follower rest. The part may have slightly slipped in the chuck.

[@an2thea514]

@@daleburrell6273 Why are you shouting so much? Did your Caps get locked? Yes, his lead screw needs to be worn, but he has both a threading dial and a great mix of materials, so it's not as worn as you might think. Hard steel against Bronze, do you know what will get worn first?