Build the right Vibration Table for your Project

[@hjvhjfv6320]

I'm making a sculpture and this is helpful to me in multiple ways... without this video I'd still be lost! Thankyou :)

[@DrCarrico]

I just happened upon this video after I poured 4 large capstones for my patio fire pit. I had bought a DC vibratory motor a few years back and I just bolted it to the bottom of a piece of plywood and set it on a pair of saw horses. I set my form/mold on top and turned it on (plugged it into my truck’s power port) and started shoveling in my mixed concrete. Because of the complexity of the form/mold, I had only made one, so I basically did 4 pours about a day apart. It worked great. When I was done, I just unbolted the motor and threw out the form. I do like your foot design, so I’ll probably give that a whirl. The project worked so well that I will most likely build a permanent vibratory table, because it comes in handy for a few things I do. Great video!

[@The3DHandyman]

Sounds awesome! I'm hoping do do some more projects like the one you did in the coming months. Lots of cool things you can do with concrete that don't cost a fortune. Thanks for the comment and the story!

[@seyyedamirir4977]

That's one of the cleanest DIY videos I've seen.

[@danielwdunn]

This is exactly what I was looking for getting bubbles out of some concrete planters and I'm glad I watched your video before trying it on my own.

[@The3DHandyman]

Glad you enjoyed the video! I used mine today and am still loving it 👍

[@adamgeiger4990]

Excellent Job. I made my table with an old garage door motor.

[@The3DHandyman]

Awesome!

[@stegra5960]

I've cast many architectural pieces such as concrete sills and lintels, some weighing upwards of 100kg; also concrete peirs in-situ. The best thing I've found to use is an SDS drill with the rotation turned off. An old chisel with the end ground flat works fine though I have considered making up a plate with with a hinge to attach to it. Only drawback perhaps is the noise level.

[@The3DHandyman]

I was thinking as I read that "that sounds loud", haha. Thanks for the thought, I am looking at making some much larger castings at some point

[@CaptainOats100]

You mean an SDS drill with a chisel attachment? And just poke it in to the mould?

[@stegra5960]

@@CaptainOats100 No. I rattle the mould with the bluntened chisel. Obviously the mould has to be sturdy enough to take it. A block of wood or rubber on the end of the chisel would probably dampen things down a little. I have wondered whether a length of sturdy cable or pipe attached might work as you suggested; a bit like the pokers they use when casting floors. But I guess they're a little more elaborate than that. Hope this helps.

[@ryanshaver]

Amazing! Thank you for uploading this project.

[@Chris-mo9gt]

I purchased an exercise vibration plate $80 (up to 260lbs) with variable speed remote. After you buy the motor, rubber feet and controller if you want variable speed the cost levels out. Except it’s all together. Still need to make the table depending on your application.

[@The3DHandyman]

That's a great idea! How is it working for you?

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Man, i hadn't watched this yet, just seen the thumbnail-hover video, this just makes me feel ashamed of my adhoc attempt! I LOVE the little tabletop one, those feet, i want those feet! My one is a bit runaway with low-mass objects and bends a bit with ehavier ones, since i mounted mine on those springy door-stops. Loving your channel pal :)

[@The3DHandyman]

The springs are a good solution for any size table. If it works, it works, no shame! So far the rubber feet have held up surprisingly well with months of use. Happy to hear you are enjoying the videos. More on the way! I'm definitely hoping to do more cement casting along the way, the results are quite nice. Thanks for all the comments, btw!

[@Gorovski]

I would try using a heat gun or a hair dryer to get the bubbles out of the silicone 2:23. That’s what they use on epoxy tables when they pour in to the form. Loved the video. Thanks for all the info.

[@The3DHandyman]

@Gorovski That's a good thought! This stuff was ridiculously viscous 10 years after it's expiration. A heat gun would probably have at least pulled out the bubbles that worked their way to the top, but maybe not maybe not the deep ones. Happy to hear you enjoyed the video. This vibration table has been getting a lot of use lately and it's still running strong!

[@notflanders4967]

hey this is awesome thanks for sharing! Can't wait for more concrete casting!

[@The3DHandyman]

Thanks! The pot casting video will be out when I launch a series on developing a product. Naturally that product needs to launch first... a few things are holding up the process at the moment. So, it's going to be a while, but it will be out...some day!

[@notflanders4967]

@@The3DHandyman good luck! Looking forward to it!

[@charlesreeves4359]

Awesome as ALWAYS brother!!!

[@DemoniqueTrance]

Really nice! Do you think powerful speakers could be used for a similar application? I figure a subwoofer can easily make a floor resonate, so maybe the vibrations from the wood could be used to filter out air from materials; assuming played loud enough.

[@The3DHandyman]

I would think so. Maybe not the most efficient way to do it and it would be very loud, but it would probably work.

[@mightyverso]

super cool gadget! thanks for the video :3

[@SuperCutie4747]

Love the video! Nice job.

[@bullkeusatough6693]

very impressive, I will take one

[@SantianoBe]

Miss the times when DIY didn't involve an expensive 3D printer. Maybe I need to get myself one one day, since most good DIY videos now use one.

[@The3DHandyman]

I imagine sculpting the molds for the rubber feet out of clay would be possible. Some finesse required... Some types of silicones will not cure in contact with clay containing sulfur, so check the material sheets. Smooth-on has good technical info about this on their website. The ecoflex 00-30 I used for the feet may be ok with clay, not sure tho. As far as 3D printing goes... I highly recommend it! Today you can buy a budget Creality Ender 3 for $165. Five years ago the same tech would have cost a few thousand dollars. You have waited for the right time to give it a shot. The Ender 3 may not be the easiest machine to use but if price is the #1 factor in your purchase, it's a fine way to go. Cost of use and ownership is also pretty low for these machines as well.

[@SantianoBe]

@@The3DHandyman Thanks for the reply. I'm acctualy looking at tests as we speak. I see they are not as expensive anymore. My only worry is software to use it with. I can't rely on finished models all the time. Any tips on an easy to use software for making/converting models for 3D Printing? To reference, my level of 3D modeling is (cough...) sketchup :P Don't even know if I can use that software to make models for printing. If I could it would be perfect. But some other software would be nice as it's kind of limited in some cases.

[@The3DHandyman]

@SantianoBe That's fair. My best use cases tend to be custom jobs so I know where you are coming from. Sketchup does export .STL files which is the industry standard for 3D printing. Another option might be the free version of Fusion 360. It's "limited" so I'm not sure how much functionality it has but it may be plenty for making simple objects. Personally I use Solidworks and 3Ds Max... they are a whole different can of worms

[@SantianoBe]

@@The3DHandyman Yeah, those last programs scare the shit out of me :P tried a few times, but I just can't get into it. Mixture of not enough time and motivation. Since I'm never making complex models. But I'll check out Fusion 360 and how sketch up handles those files. Need to read more I to it I think. If there are any limitations. Thanks for answering. Helps alot :)

[@The3DHandyman]

@@SantianoBe There is no doubt a lot to learn with any program, but it can be worth it. I suppose Blender is not typically used for product design but it's still possible in the same way that 3Ds Max is. It's free and there are loads of tutorials on that as well. I'm happy to help! If you ever have any other questions, just let me know

[@watahyahknow]

for the small holes in the bottom of the round pots , wonder if spinning them up instead of vibrating them would help the centrufugal foce makes the concrete a lot heavier during pouring , will need to reinforce the mounld against growing largerin circumference and maibe make the pour hole a lot smaller so it doesnt sling the concrete out the top of it could allso spin them up so the force goed to the bottom of the pot , bit harder to make , its how they test g force on pilots

[@The3DHandyman]

It seems like that would work. Every method comes with some challenges in the end

[@christopherboyd7335]

I picked up a comment in your vid that changing the orientation of the motor makes the vibration change from horizonal to vertical. Should be simple to make a mounting (if you weld) that allows you to change on demand the motor orientation to allow you to swap the vibration mode.

[@The3DHandyman]

Very true! I think I saw this in a video while I was coming up with the initial concept. It's a great idea

[@bobweiram6321]

Can an ultrasonic cleaner do the same job?

[@The3DHandyman]

I suppose I don't know how that tech would apply to this sort of application. Interesting idea thought!

[@spokehedz]

Soooo... Why can't you use the vacuum to remove all the bubbles from the concrete like you did with the silicone?

[@The3DHandyman]

Good question! Because concrete is water based the water will begin to boil off under vacuum. This would not be good for the casting but it might make a interesting video! As I understand it when using a vacuum chamber to stabilize wood you want the the wood to be very dry for this same reason. I can not find anywhere someone using a pressure pot to force the bubbles out of the concrete... there might be a good reason for that... but I will try it for the video about the concrete castings. Thanks for watching!

[@papapapapar]

@@The3DHandyman make a video of this :) i subscribe right now, i really curious with clearing a bubble in an angle like your mold with vacuum. i tried vibrating in mine doesn't work well. cheers

[@The3DHandyman]

@@papapapapar I get great results with my molds in the (not yet launched...) casting video. The video for this is cut together but I need to wait to launch it for various reasons that I'll get into in the next series. I didn't end up trying to cast the concrete with a pressure pot or a vacuum chamber (they were busy with resin casting) but the results are amazing without it. There is a lot at play when it comes to getting the molds bubble free; vibration, cement moisture content, mold shape and mold fill process. All this will be shown in the upcoming video but the process will no doubt be a bit different for every mold design (size is likely a big factor). Sorry for the wait on the video, but know that the wait will be worth it. The series is some of my best work.

[@christopherboyd7335]

@@The3DHandyman Hello I am enjoying watching your vids. I am a civil engineer so concrete is a major material for me. The strength of concrete is a function of the strength of the aggregate and the water cement ratio. I imagine that you are using mostly fine aggregate (small gravel and sand) and that strength is not usually too important. If that is the case a high water cement ratio will give you a wetter mix that will vibrate more easily that a dry (stronger one) and allow you to get rid of more air. in the concrete lab we used to make test cubes and vibrate them on a table- on site usually use a poker or a vibrator clamped to the formwork or a beam. Look forward to seeing more.

[@The3DHandyman]

@@christopherboyd7335 Thanks! I found that the wetter mix worked well but there is such a thing as too wet. The pots are quite thin and the stronger they are, the better. It's a fine line between the two! The video on making the pots is finally coming out...in about 1 month. I hope you like it. Definitely leave a comment on what you think. I would like to do more concrete designs in the future and any advice is good advice 👍

[@jessthompson237]

Hey did you ever make that three part mold video? I'm partway through the process of creating what looks to be a very similar mold (using a printed part and mother mold together to make a thin/cost effective sock mold for a concrete pot.) I'd love your input/expertise!

[@The3DHandyman]

Hi Jess. I did make that video but because it's tied to the launch of a product it is not released yet (possibly next month for that). Until that comes out with all the details I can try to help... - You will want to make the 3D printed outer mold a minimum of 1/4" - 1/2" larger than the inner mold (the pot). This will save on mold rubber but if it's to thin the rubber wont hold its shape. To determine the ideal thickness based on your pot design you may need to experiment. - My outer mold has 3 parts (2 sides and 1 center) that lock together. Keep the walls of each part drafted 5+ degrees for easy removal after pouring the mold rubber. There is of course a lot more too it but that's a starting point. If you have any follow up questions, let me know

[@jessthompson237]

@@The3DHandyman that's very helpful thank you! My current version has a thickness of 4mm so I'll expand that out a little bit

[@The3DHandyman]

No animations today folks! More of those in the works on upcoming videos. Never fear! You can now buy the molds for making the rubber feet! www.etsy.com/listing/1210666058

[@scottcowen4071]

How much ecoflex did you use would a pint work or do I need more?

[@The3DHandyman]

Good question! It should be about 250ml for all 4 parts. A pint has 470ml

[@patricial1187]

Hi! Are you selling this table? Thanks!

[@The3DHandyman]

Hello! I am not currently selling it but you can buy the mold for making the rubber feet on my etsy page... www.etsy.com/listing/1210666058

[@patricial1187]

@@The3DHandyman Thank you very much!

[@Painfulwhale360]

I don't have experience with making concrete castings but couldn't you just pour the concrete into the molds and then move them in the vacuum chamber?

[@The3DHandyman]

Good question! The issue there is that the water in the concrete mixture would boil and that would cause some other significant issues. I haven't tried it for that reason but it would be interesting to see what would happen!

[@andrewstewart7946]

Does the orange LARGE 30 w vibration motor work with that variable speed controller???? If so could you let me know about to make a purchase for both. THANK YOU

[@The3DHandyman]

@andrew stewart Hi Andrew! There is a slight change in vibration amount between high and low using the variable speed controller. Maybe +/- 30%? Its hard to tell by feel alone but it does seem to have an effect.

[@antoniociardulli6169]

Great video

[@The3DHandyman]

Thanks, Antonio!

[@blatantmisconception]

You ever build a vw bus with a subie engine?

[@The3DHandyman]

Sure haven't

[@wompstopm123]

is this whole enclosure water proof?

[@The3DHandyman]

Which enclosure? The one for casting the pots?

[@ElseifTuffTile8141]

Please write the motor specification

[@The3DHandyman]

Check out the motor link for more info amzn.to/3r6wlJs

[@peterpan9494]

Is your machine 120v? I have the same one but the nameplate says 220v

[@The3DHandyman]

Yes, its 120v. They probably use the same hardware and just wire it differently for different markets.

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

it would increase cost/complexity, but why not use a gear mechanism to slow it down, and why not use 2 motors, one for horizontal, one for vertical?

[@The3DHandyman]

Depending on the project, all that seems reasonable. It would be a nice test to run a test on different configs to see what the the optimal position. I'll add that to the list of some-day videos

[@YoitsWeslo]

I'm trying to follow the part where you hook this up to a power supply... but I have no idea how to do that. Any videos or suggestions from Amazon?

[@The3DHandyman]

This motor is AC rather than DC so no power supply is needed (if 120v/ac is coming out of the outlet near you) In the video I wire an extension cord on to the motor leads. Be sure to wire the cable colors together correctly (check the internet for "brown blue yellow cable wiring") Be sure to look for other videos on wiring if your are unfamiliar with the subject!

[@YoitsWeslo]

@@The3DHandyman do you have any suggestions on alternative feet absorbers??? I bought some firm rubber feet usually used for the washing machine. It vibrates the patio and doesn't do such a great job. Also what type of concrete do you use?

[@The3DHandyman]

People have used springs to dampen the motion in other videos. Other than that or the soft rubber feet, I'm not sure what the options are. I like Quickrete Sand Topping Mix for my castings

[@ramazansayed7122]

Hello brother - how much is the price of the engine...

[@The3DHandyman]

Right now they are about $50 www.amazon.com/Concrete-Vibrator-Vibration-Vibrating-Vibrators/dp/B076Q68HSW

[@gk6993]

Very handy

[@jazuzzen5453]

Cool...👍

[@makaseshaphani9532]

I am from india i required one pice to my new vibrating machene purpus 0.250 hp .whare is availability

[@The3DHandyman]

I'd check Alibaba if Amazon is not popular in your area. Good luck!

[@pabloG3d]

anyone know where i can buy similar silicone feet?

[@The3DHandyman]

Do a search for "vibration damping feet" or check out this link: www.mcmaster.com/vibration-damping-feet/ You can filter by how much dampening you want and how much weight they will support. The feet I made in this video would be considered "extra soft"

[@LaurieJoanna]

Great!!

[@jeremiahbullfrog9288]

@2:09 .. too bad you didn't have a vibration table

[@alo1236546]

I will try my washing machine

[@Ananimous7777]

You needed to pour the rubber on the plate while it was vibrating, you would not have bubbles on it.... and the plate should have about 1cm distance from the gray part, in your prphect I see they touch each other

[@jamesspry3294]

Remove the bubbles with a flame, before it gels!

[@eddiebarrera469]

If you want to get rid of bubbles,use a heat gun and give it a quick pass,all the air bubbles will come out.

[@The3DHandyman]

The molds I have been using are quite deep and I think the heat gun would only break up the bubbles on the top side. I have a video on cement casting coming out in a few weeks where I get into a lot of detail about the whole process. Stay tuned

[@eddiebarrera469]

@@The3DHandyman I'm sorry was talking about air bubbles in the worktable, that clear resin you put on it.

[@The3DHandyman]

@@eddiebarrera469 Got yah! That makes a lot more sense, haha

[@marielle5893]

or you buy one

[@fatemehazizi7920]

💯do

[@doczenith5491]

Sorry but this table is trash. Go get a battery dewalt concrete vibrator and zip tie it to the underneath of a milk crate. It works better and can vibrate a higher weight is less noisy and the machine is built to the optimal vibration frequency for concrete. When finished cut the zip ties and put the small dewalt tool away so you don’t suck up work space with a b.s table that does not even work.

[@The3DHandyman]

It may come as a surprise but this table works great. Have a wonderful day!

[@christophermccandless6979]

can we make an earthquake with bigger engine or can we demolis a buildings

[@The3DHandyman]

anything is impossible until you do it

[@christophermccandless6979]

@@The3DHandyman But how do we keep the engine stable?

[@timmessee]

Great Video