A50- The added labor of making things better! Arete supercar project

[@scottc78]

I've concluded that you're only building this car to hone the necessary skills to create a functioning Iron Man suit.

[@BuilderCreator]

If I can just get this Arc Reactor to work!!

[@scottc78]

@@BuilderCreator I tell you what buddy, if anyone can, it's you!

[@UndetectableSn1per]

This guy is antman lmao

[@alibutt5269]

@@BuilderCreator hi sir are you using Toyota engine and secondly it is same engine which is also found in front mounted of Toyota cars same engine can also be placed in mid engine layout well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed

[@alibutt5269]

@@BuilderCreator hi sir do you used Toyota engine for the project

[@DavidGuyton]

The windshield is going to look soooooooo good with that rubber gone.

[@THESLlCK]

You really are an innovator, building a whole supercar in a home garage

[@Ralph2]

The screen looks so much better without the rubber trim. Extra work but well worth it for the end result IMHO.

[@anomamos9095]

The windshield in many modern cars is bonded in as a structural member with high strength polyurethane adhesive . This is to reduce body flex and as a crash structure to prevent the roof folding in in a roll over. This is why so many windshields crack immediately after even the tiniest chip

[@bobdavis3389]

Good job on that footwell , you will never regret that , and the W/S work ,great .

[@BuilderCreator]

Especially that it was this early in the game- very little work to make the change.

[@willdarling1]

Bruce Campbell builds a supercar ! Groovy.

[@jasonyoung6420]

does that make the shift lever his boomstick?

[@dk1willsey]

While I should be focusing on my final presentations for my last semester of my undergrad, I'm proud to say I have finally caught up to the most current video. Absolutely love the project and the videos! I keep finding myself thinking on projects I could do, so I suppose your videos are accomplishing the goal of inspiring the next generation!

[@BuilderCreator]

Sorry to distract you, but thanks for all the watch time!

[@MichaelVorn]

How many people like you were missing when creating the supercar "Marusya". Ermilin and a few other design engineers, but the marketers ruined everything!!! Thank you for your videos!!! From the owner of Alfa Romeo GTV.

[@BuilderCreator]

GTV- the car they couldn't figure out what engine to use so they gave you 7 options. Ha! Nice looking car! Thanks for watching.

[@matthewnunn79]

Ignore the haters, they don't know what they are talking about. Even though this car is a proof of concept, it will be incredibly strong. Using fibre glass with a metal core to hold the engine and other components together will make this super car incredibly durable. Can't wait for the end result. Really enjoying this series, keep up the good work. Matt

[@BuilderCreator]

Not using carbon fiber is also a big complaint, but I will be releasing a video very soon discussing/showing that there is only a minor strength advantage of carbon vs S-Glass. Thanks for following the channel.

[@Xaltar_]

Great progress, the extra leg room and the cleaner windshield area will make all the difference 👍

[@longroth4882]

So happy you got more foot space, that'll really make it nicer to drive. I kept having flashbacks to driving an old Countach, and how easy it was to get my foot stuck under the brake pedal taking it off the gas. And I don't have big feet, lol.

[@BuilderCreator]

Yes, definitely worth the added labor. Glad I had not spent to much more time up front there on the lamination or I might have talked myself out of it. Thanks for watching little foot.

[@Saborexpress-u6h]

Great job. I hallucinate with you, it is amazing what you do alone. I feel very identified with you. It is a great inspiration to carry out my dreams. Thanks a lot

[@BuilderCreator]

los amantes de los coches se unen

[@carlubetv]

I'm glad you decided to remove the rubber from the windscreen, great job

[@justinmurphy2227]

I'm gonna comment BEFORE I watch the video! I'm just excited that we have a new one!

[@MrGerd]

I've discovered this channel few weeks ago and I am stoked by the craftsmanship and how you are getting job done clean and interesting. You can tell that you know what you are doing because this looks too simple in camera!:) keep up the great work! Greetings from eastern Europe!

[@kyleharvey7622]

At 5 min in you wasn’t holding your mouth right, LOL 😂 LOVE THE VIDS THO!! Keep em coming! Can’t wait to see it done👍👍

[@BuilderCreator]

After 5 minutes I have held my mouth in EVERY position. Ha!

[@kyleharvey7622]

@@BuilderCreator We all do that, my dad does it I do it everybody does move their mouth around funny when there was concentrating and working hard on some thing

[@ex0tix]

I mean you must love ice cream. We should get Blue Bunny to sponsor these videos. :D

[@functiontek]

Hey, I think your voice over microphone might be set to binaural and you want it to be on mono (Or the mono-like option). You voice over audio has been panned slightly left or right for all of your videos I've seen. You can also fix this in editing, but most of the time it's easier and ends up sounding more full if you can just hit the switch on your mic. (This is all presuming you have a mic that has that switch. (Most mics that have a binaural option also have a switch.)) Additionally getting closer to your voice over mic would probably sound better as well. While speaking position depends mostly on your mic, as a starting point having the mic 4-6 inches away from your mouth at a 45 degree angle down from you mouth while speaking with your head level/straight ahead should work. Also make sure to watch for peaking with your lapel mic. At the start of the video it peaked. I would turn the gain down on it, move it a little up, and then turn volume up on whatever you're recording it to. Super interested in your content, and I hope you continue to increase their quality.

[@layurhandsonme]

Blue Bunny should sponsor this build

[@BillPhillips4]

Great video! The general rule of thumb is that the front wheels should turn 30ﾟ. That's what car manufacturers use. It looks like Your wheels were turned far more than 30ﾟ, so you may still be able to give yourself even more foot Room.

[@BuilderCreator]

Yeah, like 38deg. It may change a bit once the hubs and steering are permanently in place, but this was the realization that prompted the foot well expansion.

[@justinfacer621]

I look forward to these videos and it inspires me to go do crappy work on my crappy car while I wait lol maybe one day I can do super nice custom work like this

[@BuilderCreator]

We all feel like we are doing crappy work (and its a good thing) and the next project will be super nice! If we all thought we were attaining perfection we never would.

[@TychoBrahe21]

Fantastic progress. Thanks for sharing. Thats going to be a great looking car.

[@formulafordisaster7609]

This car is going to be sweet!

[@xSilverScreenx]

looking great!

[@sorry-but-im-italiano5958]

the fiberglass monocoque is not a little rigid to withstand the stresses of the road at 200 mph and the weight of the engine with the subframe behind? When you mounted the glass, an upright moved

[@BuilderCreator]

The tub is only about 15% finished. Still 80 yards (73 meters) of reinforcement to go.

[@sorry-but-im-italiano5958]

@@BuilderCreator ok wow!! When do you plan to finish the project?

[@BuilderCreator]

@@sorry-but-im-italiano5958 I've found that it is best not to plan on a finish date, just work as fast and consistent as you can. I will say -2021

[@sorry-but-im-italiano5958]

@@BuilderCreator 👍👍 we are waiting next video 😀

[@timtom9450]

Looking great! 😁

[@christiantysian5868]

Hope it will be a success

[@BalvanKolbasukhin]

I know that rubber on windshild is noicy and anti air dynamic. About pedals its pritty commen thing for sports/track oriented disight cars to have em on angle. For example lamborgini murcilago had same pedel amgle problem as u had. Did you see lotus esprit dighin? It has aluminun superlight frame on shaft tonel place and super light full fiberglas/cevlar monococ body. And "modern" lotuses have square'ish aluminun frame and fiberglas body on it.

[@bay7695]

For lightweight filler, maybe some fumed silica. Get smoother filler, pretty easy to sand and as a thixotrophic stuff it keeps shape easier than milled glass (don't have experience in cotton tho).

[@BuilderCreator]

Fumed silica is right between the glass and the cotton as far as weight goes, finished hardness is about the same as milled glass. Fumed silica is a great filler, but doesn't add as much strength as the glass and cotton do.

[@danielgrafik]

Just found your channel and this build a couple of days ago, and have somewhat caught up now. It's a really fascinating project, and your presentation is nicely different than a lot other YT car channels/project - in a good way! The detailed look into all the fabrication (yes, even sanding), with the relativly easy to under explanations is great. Wouldn't change a thing. One question, I might have missed this, do you have a rough time-frame in mind for the project? or is more "see how it goes" kinda thing? - Thanks, Daniel form Denmark.

[@jamespray]

New subscriber, loving the build and happy to see you getting attention! Maybe you covered it earlier (I started from your big compilation video), but was the narrow footwell something you were aware of, tested, and initially decided was a workable tradeoff? Or did you only discover this issue once design constraints had locked it in somewhat? I'm glad it was fixable, at least!

[@playdav485]

great video and the fiberglass looks like paper mache for adults

[@Unkepts]

Good vid!

[@94JAVS]

my left ear enjoyed this video a lot haha

[@valpanig]

i noticed left biased sound too

[@yellowbelly8402]

The rear side windows would be great extra airflow scoops for engine bay?

[@ProjectSupercar]

That's better, much more foot space, but I'm still scratching my head over how you're going to fit the prop-shaft to the rear. How is it going to clear the passenger seat?

[@pauljarvis1937]

it's a rear wheel drive and it's mid engined. why would you need a prop shaft?

[@boomcannon9732]

@@pauljarvis1937 its awd

[@BuilderCreator]

The passenger seat will be 2 inches narrower than the drivers, but my wife is 2 inches narrower than the driver as well. Ha! With this extra space on the passenger side the propeller shaft has room to travel aft.

[@ProjectSupercar]

@@pauljarvis1937 Actually it's AWD, like Boom Cannon mentioned, so it will have two prop-shafts. One to the front and one to the rear.

[@ProjectSupercar]

@@BuilderCreator LOL, lucky she's 2 inches narrower :). Well, I'm interested to see how it all fits in such a tight area, that's for sure. I'm assuming some custom machine work will be in ordered, because I don't know of any OEM parts that will fit. Anyway, looking forward to the next episode. ;)

[@timhitt9541]

If the windshield broke, God forbid, I bet it would be very difficult to replace it.

[@BuilderCreator]

Cut the urethane glue with a Harbor freight windshield knife - clean up the area - bond in new windshield- $210 PPG glass.

[@anomamos9095]

I'm guessing you decided against using a transfer case out of a Toyota or Range Rover AWD and mounting the motor to one side so the drive shafts would run down the centre. You'd need to offset the engine by about six inches; slanting it by about 30 to 45 degrees would move some of the weight back to the centre line. I hear the Range Rover cases bolt onto the transmission you're using though.

[@BuilderCreator]

By flipping the whole assembly around I would have reversed the bias provided by the viscous coupling and planet gear set up, plus a "standard" transfer case is just a bit wider than I would like. (already to wide in the center tunnel) By building my own case I have added a second shaft, getting the bias (66R/33F) and rotation directions (at least one of them) correct. Front diff must run inverted.

[@anomamos9095]

@@BuilderCreator . Have you looked at a smaller diff for the front? All you need is matching ratios not matching diffs. That getrag is massive overkill for a front diff especially with 65/35 split torque .

[@BuilderCreator]

@@anomamos9095 You familiar with something out there that would/could run 2.73 ratio. Out of a truck front, as that would get me the correct helical spline alignment.

[@anomamos9095]

@@BuilderCreator . I don’t know what is out there that would be more suitable with that ratio as standard. I would be looking at small cars and off roaders that have a longitudinal engine that use the corporate parts bins. You might find that a miata diff or the front diff from a Suzuki samurai or vitara will have an option for that gear set. The rear diff from some AWD Acura’s have torque vectoring clutch systems and possibly come in that ratio. To make your transfer case I’d look at the differentials and transfer cases from front wheel drives for suitable donor gears

[@BuilderCreator]

@@anomamos9095 I finally have all the components fort the center mounted Diff. A few more hours for the case design and then off to the water-jet cutter. I know a lot of people have been askeing about the center diff and It will be nice to get it built. Last thing before I can build the tunnel. Although, it is convenient not having it in the way.

[@jakefromstatefarm9721]

I attempted to build a foam cored surfboard with 3 layers of the 1" foam from the big box store and documented it on a surfing forum. I got destroyed for using that foam, they said it off gasses and will delam, leading to core failure. is there any truth to that?

[@BuilderCreator]

The blue or pink styrene foam insulation can be a little iffy! the polyisocyanurate foam like the one I'm using (with the kraft paper backing) is done expanding (gassing) hours after its manufacture. Your also safe with the expanded styrafoam bead type, but it's a bit rough to work to a smooth surfaces like a surfboard requires and the bond between the beads may fail.

[@jakefromstatefarm9721]

@@BuilderCreator good stuff. Im preparing to build a boat but my plans call for “marine” pvc foam. At $160 for a 4x8 sheet, I’m definitely in the market for alternatives.

[@BuilderCreator]

@@jakefromstatefarm9721 Closed cell vs open cell is your biggest concern. Look for Poly iso sheets from a contractors supply (roofing) rather than what you find at the big box stores. The supplier may be able to tell you if it is open or closed cell, but more often not. Take some foam and test it. Submerge a piece for 48 hours and then see if its dry after removing it.

[@ScottDagg]

Great video! I love the content. Is there any specific reasons you chose to build the car in fiberglass over carbon fiber?

[@fedefinn999]

Scott D I think it might be because of cost effectiveness

[@XSMotorWorks]

@@fedefinn999 fiberglass has gotten a bad rap. There is actually two main types of glass e and s. S glass is still used today in racing. In some case carbon is a worse material choice because it very ridgid

[@PL4GU3d]

Both can be used effectively it just has to do with how it’s used and for what, I encourage you to look up how the Diamond DA40 NG is made, a very unique aircraft made with a mostly glass and carbon fibre structure, it’s a great display of composite fibres in use considering the forces a plane undergoes in flight. Hope this helps mate.

[@BuilderCreator]

I will be doing a video very soon on the strength vs weight vs price difference of the Glasses, Carbon, Kevlar, but the short answer is the $17K difference. (as other here have said.) Additionally, to make use of carbon fibers advantage I would need to Vacuum bag all the parts and my molds are not designed to do that.

[@ScottDagg]

@@BuilderCreator Looking forward to it!

[@DorksandBolts]

Maybe you have addressed this a billion times, but when you are done with the prototype, are you planning to build it on other composites? And also are you doing your own electronic mangent systems?

[@BuilderCreator]

Leaving it open for now as to the future after the prototype. I'm using the kit built MS3x ECU and Megashift transmission controller. Arduino based CAN signaled peripherals (lights, controls etc.)

[@Soicydavedahtech]

I just noticed the 2j is mounted backwards? How would you run the drive lime to the back of the car when the engine is reversed? Or maybe I'm just tripping

[@BuilderCreator]

Your not tripping! The engine and transmission are pointed toward the front of the car. The drive-line hits a mid mounted differential (transfer case) and splits to go to front and back mounted differentials - All wheel drive.

[@Soicydavedahtech]

@@BuilderCreator and I figured that is what you where doing! Man I'm enjoying the build here for it all!!! Great content I'm leaning a lot.

[@HowDareYouu]

nice project but this car made from foam and fiberglass has zero crash protection in case of a crash, u need a serious rollbar cage

[@Trond_Aas]

Hi, I have question regarding the "reverse" mounting of the engine. Do you plan to run the car as FWD or do you plan to use a "V-drive" to get the power to the rear wheels ? Interesting project, love the craftsmanship you put into it. Regards Trond Aas

[@frederickevans4113]

Go back and watch his previous videos. It is not planned to have a V-drive. Instead, it is planned to have a simple transfer case and all four wheels driven.

[@RetrowaveUniverse]

awd

[@Davidstinton]

Are going to expand the passenger footwell too?

[@BuilderCreator]

yep!

[@mchristr]

I realize you're using an automatic transmission but do you have plans for a "dead pedal"?

[@BuilderCreator]

Probably not, just gives me a bit more room for fancy foot work.

[@boomcannon9732]

Is that a t-top or is it gullwing doors?

[@BuilderCreator]

Commonly referred to as Butterfly doors or LeMans style doors. flip over the windshield.

[@molitovv]

You make as many facial expressions as Frank Howarth when you are working, are you two related?

[@rowanisironman3358]

i want to start clay modelling but do want to go too far and realise im going to spend too much money. how much does a build like this cost? thanks again for your great work keep it up:)

[@BuilderCreator]

I will be $30K into this for materials. Add $150K to that if you pay yourself $25/hr. Ha!

[@TheDroidKilla]

Audio is weird. Love the content.

[@janblanckenberg883]

It's going to be a long week till next Thursday

[@gundonemushungwa5935]

First too😆

[@daverobert7927]

Should just "nicely" ask your local windscreen fitter... ask him to come over for a beer after work?

[@frederickevans4113]

I'd like to do something like this, but much, much smaller and with much less lofty goals. I'd like to build a pair of enclosed electric motorcycles capable of seating 2 occupants and capable of attaining highway/freeway speeds. Flat-out top speed would only need to be about 80 - 100 Mph (130 - 160 Km/h), maximum. The minimum range requirement (with heat or a/c on) would be numerically similar (i.e.: 100 miles / 160 Km). It would a home-built inspired by the likes of the Ecomobile made by Peraves AG (Switzerland) and the "C1" by Lit Motors (Commiefornia, USA). One would be for myself and the other would be for my father. Dad lives somewhere with obscene gasoline (petrol) prices and I'm concerned about his sense of balance since he has nerve-damage-related hearing loss in both ears. A self-balancing enclosed "motorcycle" would be ideal for him to get around in. A few solar panels and a battery bank at home and it wouldn't even cost him anything in electricity either. I would probably embed a half-dozen electroluminescent wires into the fibreglass itself, red wrapped around the rear ¼ and yellow/orange around the front ¼ of the vehicle. I'd have traditional LED lights as well, so these EL wires would be supplemental light bars/side markers. Because EL strips/tape/panels tend to dim as they age, I would wire the vehicle to use only one pair at a time, tripling the usable longevity of the light strips. Since they would be embedded into the fiberglass, replacement down the road wouldn't be practical. Build in the spares (or cycle the various "wires" using a timer circuit and relays. Wear leveling) from the get-go.

[@BuilderCreator]

Might be smaller, but still sounds pretty lofty. . .Lofty is good. See you on the highway.

[@thedailyshaver1171]

0:02 npc's in video games like gta5 be like

[@frank3722]

Sorry, I must protest. A proper car always has three pedals!!!

[@BuilderCreator]

Oh, don't worry, the passenger will be pedaling as well! ;)

[@thomaswoodruff2391]

I am a huge fan of this channel. But the windshield part has me cringing as an Autoglass tech. Although hindsight is 20/20, it would have been better to use a different glass, like one that you wanted. But you had already made the mold, so I get that. It would have saved you a lot of work though. I understand cutting the encapsulation that is bonded to the windshield, but ohhh is that sketchy. I’ve broken many windshields doing that! As far as the release agent on the glass, I pray you got that thoroughly removed and the bond line (frit band) decontaminated, as the polyurethane will not bond to that. Finally, as far as the flush mount, you could have went with a flush mount, foam underlay molding that sits flush between the glass and body. Common thicknesses to cover the gap are 5/7/9mm. Look at typical Honda’s, maseratis, and some others. But most cars/super cars have a short underlay that curls around the back of the pinchweld (or flange), an example would be any Subaru, or any of the new lamborghinis, and yet again some Maserati’s. I think the windshield originally looked high/bad, because the encapsulation normally sits very recessed and open on the side, and then the door seal mates to that via a metal track, with the a pillar sitting completely under it, but not to either side. Your windshield was designed to be enclosed, which made it protrude.

[@thomaswoodruff2391]

And also, I absolutely love that I have found this channel. It’s absolutely amazing.

[@BuilderCreator]

Thanks for lending your expertise Thomas. I had another auto glass tech (replacing a window in a daily driver) give his input when he was here one day. I think we have enough clearance around the glass for a typical urethane bond in place without the trim. The release agent is gone and will not effect the bond. My only wish is that I could have the nice blacked out edge (with the diminishing dots) to conceal the urethane. As for getting the glass "I wanted," custom glass was going to set me back $15K-20K the Chev Cavalier glass $149- the budget said $149. HA!

[@thomaswoodruff2391]

@@BuilderCreator awesome! I’m glad to hear that the release agent was completely removed. I’m actually going today (on my day off, because it’s a huge safety issue) to replace a windshield on a Range Rover that is not bonded to the glue, and is just sitting on the vehicle, due to a similar situation. However, as far as my original comment on choosing your own glass. You could have went to a wrecking yard and found a glass that was suitable to your fit and finish, and shape, etc.. or even looked at the grocery store parking lot looking at windshields. Then, you could have went to an Autoglass company (some have a whole warehouse you could check out) and they would sell you just the glass. That way you could have an off the shelf part number, that you know would be available for years to come. Just an idea, hopefully for the future builds you decide to share with us!

[@BuilderCreator]

@@thomaswoodruff2391 You just described exactly what I did; although the shopping mall has a wider selection than the grocery store. You have to be fast however as people don't like you measuring their car windshield- it looks suspicious. Ha! I found the right width, as deep a parabolic curve as I could find and made sure it was a VERY mass produced model. Once I was happy, then I just went down to PPG and told them the make and model. 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier- $149.00

[@chubscub]

Alreet today is not the day , again

[@georgemichaels2325]

Why didn't you do a basic mockup first to determine proper foot, hip,head height and shoulder spacing dimensions?

[@BuilderCreator]

I do have a little anatomical man that I insert in my cad drawings to check things, but even he could not tell me what the stop-to-lock travel of the possible future steering rack might be back in those design stages.

[@cheapycheapy4689]

90% there, and only 90% to go ...

[@henryyandle7950]

First

[@boomcannon9732]

I don't recall anyone asking

[@LupusMechanicus]

fifth

[@spectra8977]

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