Building 50ft sailboat: More molds, more CNC-cutting and more frames! - ep73 Project SeaCamel

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

"These pieces here" was missing. 😅 You can check what I mean in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqewhXWPrJ6sf9k

[@Michael-ok1rn]

You deserve a lot of credit for not only building a boat (and filming it), but also building a new method of building a boat (and filming it)!! Oh, and of course, in freezing temperatures and on a one-man-show budget.

[@Cptnbond]

You deserve more subscribers and Patreon's for your endurance in the project. Cheers.

[@hassanmourad7303]

I have to say it, "it's starting to look like a boat" :) you must be very proud to have reached this exciting stage in the build!

[@dietergraser3640]

Found this channel, was hooked and made all my way thru the older episodes during the last week from the beginning and now I am up to date and can slow down to the normal pace. I am fascinated about your approach and excited about your progress and admire your dedication to your project! I really appriciate how you overcome all those moments of frustration by finding creative solutions in a never-ending learning process. Thank you for sharing this - it is worth to support this as a pat. So I am looking forward to see this boat to become reality!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Thank you so much! It has been a long journey and there’s still most of the things to do! Welcome! 🤗

[@bobbysharp]

Making a guide to remove the angled edges. Use a hand saw to cut in a slot(kerf) that is at the depth of the top and bottom pieces of plywood. This is a visual that will guide you as you remove the material accurately. The bottom of the slot is close to the finished angle. Cut the slots a little shallow and then take care to dial in the finished surface.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I actually have ditched the angle grinder since this. The most efficient way is to use the multitool just to cut the first time as accurately as possible and finish with light sanding. 😊

[@planecrazy9208]

Well done Panu!!! Things are gathering momentum now and as everyone has said you must be proud of your many achievements in the course of the project thus far. Keep it up you are doing so well - we all look forward to the next video and the next and the next .... :)

[@rogerroger3692]

finally looking like a boat, YAY

[@c.a.mcneil7599]

Happy that things are coming together for you. Could see it at end of video. The intro was cool also great editing . Thanks for taking us along. Be safe always

[@petervanelslander6206]

i am so stoked to see it fit together and build up a 3D shape! I hope i will do my build as well!!!

[@ianrusso8790]

yes!!!!!! its finally taking shape!! how exiting.

[@garyregan4871]

Well executed clever plan, hoping for warmer weather for your work

[@timbooth3020]

Fantastic progress! It’s inspiring to watch your work…

[@jorgeconcheyro]

I would have thought you would be using carving disks for your grinder... great work Panu!!!.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I actually pretty much ditched the grinder. Too much dust and hassle. Best way is to use the multitool as precisely as possible from the very beginning. Then just light sanding completes the shape.

[@Fanan67]

Panu great music on your channel. Keep the good work.

[@billradford2128]

I agree. What instrument are you playing in the music?

[@danielsondavidf]

Excellent attention to detail!

[@R.E.HILL_]

Impressive progress... looking forward to your next video..🙂👍

[@proq06]

Its accelerating fast! I hope for the best for you and project!

[@DieterSchink]

Exciting times in your shop. Use a japan saw to cut your angles and grind only the last bit.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I actually ditched the grinder and use only the multitool to cut the initial pieces out - as accurate as possible. Then it only needs light sanding. 🙂

[@tube4h]

Yes, this might even be faster than the multi tool.

[@davidbroman8391]

So exciting! Awesome to see some shape happening.

[@ericseidel4940]

Nice job. I would not make any assembly without soaking epoxy between the pieces. Afterward water/humidity will go everywhere and you cant reach between pieces to see whats happening. All my blessing for future.

[@normanboyes4983]

Congratulations Panu on kicking off with this new phase of the build.👍😀⛵️

[@fransdriesen1311]

Just amazing how everything (CNC, Design, Assembly, etc...) is going hand in hand..

[@DWAJarrett]

Great positive progress Panu. Combine this with spring and you will really make gains quickly👍

[@brianlord2636]

Another very interesting video!

[@gregwhite8503]

Respect the drive to see the land from the water... some men/women don't opt for status quo.. keep moving forward with the build!

[@toddablett4493]

I see a boat, well the start of it Panu. It looks great btw. Keep going, me and my students from B.C. Canada really like watching your videos. They are well made and you show the problems as they arrive and the solutions as you come up with them...wish I could plan a field trip out there but It is a little bit too far. But luckily you bring us along with your videos. Can't wait for the next one.

[@dennislandon3641]

Great Job

[@jorgeconcheyro]

At 16:30. when cutting the interior face. If the initial cut is vertical at the lower edge, then when working from above all you need to keep in mind is not to touch the lower edge because is already on size. Hope it makes sense.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Yes, the "top" in that case will have tiny "cavity" there. But that's OK. It will be filled eventually when things get glue against it.

[@forresta65]

If the base is good it reflects to the surface

[@mikefife3918]

Love your channel!

[@pierrefiore6933]

"only 15 to go" - that's inspiring optimism. It kills me to think you are doing all this in sub zero temperatures. you're a wild man for sure

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

😅 Doing physical work in cool temps is the way to go. The 15°C required to glue things is on the upper limit of comfortable to do physical things. You need to wear the protective gear anyway...

[@forresta65]

That boat is going to be huge.

[@stevenr8606]

I know this IS/MIGHT BE quite soon. But, 🙏 please plum your out door cockpit for heat 🔥 , as Johan did on S/V RAN II. Was a very good 💡 idea.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi! A suggestion for the boat I see!? Nice! The outdoor cockpit will have hard top on it and definitely possibility to close it completely - for keeping the heat. (And I have toyed an idea to use it as a sauna... 😁 )

[@adgkato9765]

I find this amazing, the CNC pieces fit together so well.

[@vogs72]

Panu get a mallet (nylon or wood) to knock those pieces together- much less likely to break the edges.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

They're just molds in this case... And pretty hard actually. I didn't make any damage to them.

[@billradford2128]

I love the innovation of your build and build process. I also love that it is a solo effort and done in the freezer as well! Despite that you are making great progress that is riveting to watch. I even like your music - what instrument do you play?

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I'm mostly drummer but also can play some bass and guitar. Playing instruments have been quite low lately though...

[@paul_mln9515]

Love the intros !!!!!

[@bradfordsimms715]

High tech low tech no tech applied to each stage , very interesting to watch.

[@YachtHT]

why don't leave frames square and then fill the gap with expoxy and filler? (I know on this step it isn't possible because of design, but just a question)

[@YachtHT]

also. I would consider temporary thin frames from some sort of chipboard and after planking is finished, do a permanent frames gluing it plank by plank to the hull, I would screw them with self-tapping screws. What do you think? Except of some amount of holes on frames (after screws), I see such method maybe not very precise and clean but it may be quicker.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi good questions. In some frames in the middle it might be possible. But of course the other reason is to make as-precice-as-possible "mold" for attaching the planking. Also the wood here is the "fiber" that handles the loads. So if they're apart from each other, that could make a weak spot...? And also epoxy is very expensive. Wood is very cheap. As for the method and schedule what to attach when, take a look earlier video of the nest stages of the build. There will be a lot of screw holes in planks of course, that's not problem. But the general idea is to install as much stuff as possible before putting the planking in. I could put a lot more but I still want to feel the empty hull before making finalized decisions of the interior.

[@viltfjall]

Started following since the sauna build. Seen every episode of boat. When you said 5-6 years I had to check. WOW! It IS six years. A lot and lot of work starts paying of. Happy for you champ!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Wow! That is amazing! Thanks! And yeah - it has been six years. Lot of things have happened but it still kind of feels like yesterday. Cheers!

[@stuartgelinas]

get yourself a sawzall and blades come in fine and aggressive wood and both, (bimetal) and as long as 12",makes those notches and other large cuts a breeze!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I actually have ditched the angle grinder since this. The most efficient way is to use the multitool just to cut the first time as accurately as possible and finish with light sanding. 😊 Sawzall would be too inaccurate IMO. And I don't have that (at least yet)... 😅

[@stevenholton438]

Great progress! What an exercise for your Life skills!

[@ollied1981]

Shaping those frames looks like a mammoth task...if only the router was 5 axis! Amazing project!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi! It's not that bad. I've got a hang of it already. And - i just recently was thinking that if I'd start this project now (or start manufacturing these boats) I'd definitely get a 5 axis robot arm router to do exactly that! It would also give all sorts of possibilities to do things more efficiently (by just sitting on the warm office and looking through the window... 😁)

[@joel383]

Cut kerfs with hand saw, then powercarve, or even chainsaw and planer.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Multitool seems to be the best! I can get very close of the final result with just one cut. 🙂

[@smaggies]

Hello Panu, :) Great to see you again, Yes Darn CNC calibrating with my Small Mini Mill. Darn weather, litle behind will catch up with a warm Spring. :) I would enjoy being the shop boy, maybe someday. Best wishes always and will be here till the end. A Chance to view the sailboat size... :) and now getting worried about using a crane or lift to rotate the boat. Big Smile :)

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

You can check the real-time weather report on the short video I did today... 😂 And welcome!

[@herbfromhouston1960]

Very Good ❤

[@kevinwatson5833]

Keep up the good work also a turbo plane might be a good idea for the grinder

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

That might be too aggressive… 😱

[@Buzzz1962]

Good progress 👌

[@andreasmeerkamp8627]

I like your project. This might have been answered already - who did the design of your boat and who did the CNC shapes of all the pieces?

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi! The boat hull design has been made by Y-M Tanton. He sent me the 3D-hull shape and principles of the structures. I’ve done the actual design and all the 3d-modeling and cut files.

[@videobob]

One piece at a time

[@sthtemp2]

Great music.

[@MichaelP-g5n]

She rises!

[@scottdigs]

Hi Panu, I've been watching your channel since you started building your CNC machine. I'm not sure if you've covered it already, but I'd there a reason for running your machine at such conservative speeds? I'm loving the boat build so far, keep it coming!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I’m using quite small router bits. The general cutting speed is 2000mm/minute which is ok to me. The max the x-axis can go (the ballscrew start to wobble) is 4000mm/minute. And maybe I’m just scared…

[@scottdigs]

@@ArcticSeaCamel ah ok, I use 6mm bits and cut about 6000mm/m at full depth (18mm). I suppose it depends on spindle power too. I tested a 3mm single flute once in MDF, it cut at 7000mm/m without breaking! Cut quality wasn't great but it's a tiny bit, carbide bits always impress me.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

@@scottdigs 😳 In that case it’s just the being scared. I have plenty of power in the spindle and max rev of 20000rpm. Maybe I’ll test some faster speeds at some point…

[@jackdbur]

Now if you had a old industrial robot arm 5 axis with a miling end on it that would be very fast

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Actually - I just thought about this last week. If i'd start this project now, I would probably buy that kind of robot arm and do all the frame shaping and other stuff with that. Maybe next time... 😜

[@bolo19213]

Hello Panu I am admiring your work from Poland. Planning to build 8m long boat soon. Can you reveal where from you bought the plywood in Poland ? And what price have you paid for it per sheet?

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I bought them from a company that imports them here. I don't know the company name what makes these sheets unfortunately. Prices were 30€ for 12mm sheet, and 40€ for 15mm. Including VAT24%. The quality isn't the top notch though...

[@barteaumotorsports8909]

1 concern, these “Ribs” are wood, in steel we run cross reinforced pieces, the wood can change with moisture etc. would some cross cross support help it from twist and stretch?

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

The frames take the force in "up-down"-direction. The planking of the hull will do the same in horizontal. And then there's going to be two layers of veneer to take the loads in ±45 degrees. And of course being laminated from multiple strips it pretty much prevents the movement with moisture. Steel is very bendy (and much thinner) so it needs additional reinforcement. Wooden hull is much thicker and that way much stiffer.

[@markk4285]

Hi Panu. Would an electric compass plane help with shaping the frames - especially on the inside. And, working on the frames either them held vertically would assist in seeing both sides of the templates simultaneously Just my thoughts. Best wishes in your superb build. Mark K. Dublin. Ireland.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi! I really don't need to remove any material from the inside. I know that such tool exist though. It might be useful later when shaping inside surfaces...? Dunno... Frames are so big that I'd need a massive stand to hold them up. This way I really don't need do more that flip them over once. It's working fine. Already seven frames finished now i think...

[@robertscholz4486]

Hi Panu, I have a question about all of the permanent pieces that you are going to be gluing up (in particular the frames). I noticed that while preparing the frames to get them to shape, you are creating large areas that will be in direct contact with the hull that are bare wood. Do you plan on treating all of these areas of the frames with a penetrating epoxy? If left untreated it would seem that moisture from condensation that forms along the hull would have a means of ingress into the frames -- the cold waters where you are likely to sail combined with the warm interior of the boat are likely to create this effect. That is not to mention that the point of contact to the keel of each frame is all of the end grain on the frames which will be effectively the site of the bilge. I am curious about how you plan to deal with this issue --- it's what scares the heck out of me about wooden boats!!!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi Robert (i guess!)! So all the frame sides are bare wood right now as you noticed. And the wood strips of the hull will be glued to those surfaces with epoxy. Wood really doesn't suffer from condensation at all. It is good insulator by itself. (of course if it's really cold it will especially when covered with plastic) But as for making this as wood-epoxy composite boat, It's really important to seal all the wood surfaces to prevent moisture getting into them. The downside of making composite is that while the epoxy prevents moisture getting in, it also prevents the moisture getting out! (if it has found it's way in there) So. Yes, all the surfaces, end grains etc. _will_ be sealed with epoxy (and fiberglass for protecting from bumps).

[@robertscholz4486]

@@ArcticSeaCamel Thank you for the reply, I was just curious considering your Arctic location. Condensation is always an issue on boats, but more so when in very cold climates because people tend to try to keep the boat very warm down below. Great job on the first few frames ... it's really starting to get exciting now that we are beginning to see the boat start to come together!!!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

@@robertscholz4486 Yeah. In order to fight condensation you also need to have good ventilation. Cold air generally contains very little moisture. So if you manage to get cool air in and warm it up, it dries significantly. Condensation only becomes issue when you have source of moisture inside (like human being or cooking etc.) AND you have surfaces that are significantly colder than the air inside. That's why this boat will not have "normal" aluminum framed hatches etc. All hatches, windows etc. NEED to be insulated and at least double glass. Handling moisture in cold climates is very very familiar to me (and all of us living up here). Regardless the insulation value of wood, I'm also planning to put additional insulation all over the boat and really address that air ventilation issue. Boat is very challenging thing to have proper air flow into. With big boat like this I really think that you will need some sort of mechanical ventilation system. Just to move the air from the bilge and keep things dry as explained before.

[@tokkarijuha]

Arbotech turboplane olisi vähän nopeampi terä rälläkkään. Luo lastua eikä pölyä niinkään.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Täytyy pistää mieleen myöhempiä aikoja varten. Nyt jätin rälläkän kokonaan pois. Paras tapa vaikuttaa olevan se, että teen ensimmäisen leikkuun mahdollisimman takasti multi-toolilla ja sen jälkeen kevyt hionta riittää valmiiseen lopputulokseen.

[@ismailkurt4959]

Türkiyeden işinizi severek takip ediyorum

[@thinwolf4516]

If you keep at it, I will stay.

[@SiqueScarface]

4:45 It's called tearout.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Yeah! I basically know all these terms - they just don't seem to visit my brain cells when talking about them... 🤪

[@SiqueScarface]

@@ArcticSeaCamel As long as your viewers understand you, you are talking right.

[@herbfromhouston1960]

Let's GO ¡!!!!¡

[@gandersson6121]

Do you not have homing switches on your cnc?

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi! No. I cannot use any sensors due the interference of the spindle. Haven't really notice any need for them though. Fixing that is on the long long todo-list 😅 And also, homing wouldn't fix the issue of Y-motors going "unbalance" if bumped out of place...

[@gandersson6121]

@@ArcticSeaCamel of you use 2 homing switches on either side would allow the gantry to “square” itself. Love your channel btw! Kitos

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

​@@gandersson6121 Hi! Yes propably they would. But those switches should be located within tenths of millimeters in right spot related to each other. And I'm not sure if their accuracy is enough for that. Some sort of metal spikes and micro-adjustable thread system could work...

[@igoigo5438]

Доброй ночи! С удовольствием смотрю ваши видео.попробуйте использовать для грубой обдирки шпангоутов жесткие абразивные чашечные круги на металлической основе.у них разный размер абразива .они вам очень облегчат работу.удачи.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi. I kind of ditched the grinder altogether. Too dusty and not really necessary. Multitool is the king. 😊

[@igoigo5438]

@@ArcticSeaCamel согласен,скоро лето,можно и на улице,на ветру ,производительность будет хорошая..удачи

[@IceCreams62]

Nice video. Now is time to buy at least a cheap tool setter

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I actually have one. Haven't just hooked it in. Setting the Z isn't that big of a deal...

[@charlesmcdonald5465]

Fuck yeah man ! Rock on!!

[@amunderdog]

Project is picking up speed

[@robkas5996]

why not cut the angle you want on the band saw

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

They’re just too big, heavy and cumbersome to lift and move. Also the outside angle changes all the time.

[@herbfromhouston1960]

❤

[@ingmarm8858]

What is with the weird jump cuts and out of sync audio Panu? Can't watch it, it is messing with my head.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I understand. My speaking is so slow and bad that I need to make it faster. Maybe I got too exited with this one…

[@ingmarm8858]

@@ArcticSeaCamel Your English is better than many people I've worked with who were born in Australia lol. Yes maybe a little too much on this one ;-)

[@Alhamdulillah_Restaurant]

🎉🎉🎉❤❤

[@graphics80]

You did speedup the video, right?😂😊

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

I might have... 😇🤪

[@wormball]

but it is not soft

[@spoockeErazor]

Amazing work !! One question are you using compression bits to cut ?? There is a lot of rough cuts. IT could safe you time and splinters :p

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Hi! I'm using downcut bits with these cuts. And it's only 4mm wide. That seems just to be enough and bigger bit would create a lot more waste and make it hard to use the screws to fix the plywood etc etc... I have 8mm compression bit though but haven't really used it for these. The reason above. Using new sharp bit gives excellent results!

[@spoockeErazor]

@@ArcticSeaCamel Well am not going to tell you what you have to do at all. just pointing it out :) If it works it works. going to order my self some of these 4mm my self soon :) and you said you have to be carefull not to move the axis?? no limit switches ?? a other trick you could do is add flip fingers on the side of your spoil board of the cnc. flip em up when you added a plate you want to cut and jam it against them. you can even add a offset. once the plate is in place flip em down and go to town. easy alignment and if you would install limit switches to zero out the machine. you can add a offset to your plate with the finger is always Zero on the corner :p tricks of the trade.