Building a Model Railway - Part 3 - Track Laying

[@TheAudiostud]

Owning & Running a Model Railway is an Evolution process, what once was is no longer, we continue to learn & improve, as always your videos are of a high quality both from the content & production, you make all look so simple and we your audience really appreciate your videos, Great a Work, Well Done!

[@EverardJunction]

TheAudiostud Thanks

[@majorclaret]

This series of videos is proving so helpful to my own efforts to build my own layout, whether it is ideas I had not thought of or improving plans I already have on paper. It is admirable that people such as yourself share your skills and ideas with other modellers. The clear, concise presentation is much appreciated.

[@EverardJunction]

+majorclaret Thanks for the comment.

[@trainlover658]

Ngl, watching you rip up the track is helping me get the courage to do a rather ambitious project of regauging a branchline on my local model railway from 00 to 009, thank you for the tips.

[@treereaverjones6535]

Hi,My granddad was a platelayer I the mid 1930s. Your process for removing and re-installing/reworking the line is oddly reminiscent of how hr told me they did it! Remove the fishplates, remove the points, take up the track, reline the bed, lay track, ballast and move on. I'm enjoying watching these videos it brings back some old memories.Thanks a lot.Treereaver

[@strosiemead4242]

Some good tips and advice there on another good update. Good series of films developing. Thanks for sharing.

[@JackBowley95]

Excellent series of videos. Moving with the missus to a flat which has a (in her words) dedicated train room. The videos have inspired me and reminded me how to go about building a decent layout. Cheers!

[@EverardJunction]

Javelin395 Thanks mate. Dedicated train room sounds excellent. Good luck with the build.

[@danieln.siskron8980]

Wow..that's some Nice Model Rail Road Track building...I think I just learned a couple of things about laying the track down with the Cork...I am a Train and Rail fan....Thanks for posting...I enjoyed watching.

[@TerryWinchcombe]

Really enjoying this series, great idea to show back to basics as part of your existing layout.

[@dhtmo]

Another great video. I've often been scared off making modifications but these vids have give me the confidence. Cheers,

[@Gus-jb8cm]

Great workmanship again Richard. 👍👍 👍👍👍

[@maidenrulz73]

Fell asleep 1 minute in ...,woke up just as it was ending.....great vid

[@ralphlees6438]

Hi rich another interesting bid with great tips for modifying old track Look forward to next one Kind regards Ralph

[@MikesMovies]

Hello Richard! Got to say WOW! superbly produced and full of helpful tips. I am considering having an electro frog crossover which will be manual, so I was interested to see the use of insulators! I'll be trying to watch the rest of this series over time. Cheers and well done indeed. Mike

[@cristinacarmona7740]

trenes

[@drlodge]

Richard, your videos are inspirational. Everytime I watch one, my imagination runs riot and I start thinking of that model railway I would build, if only I had time. One day! Keep up the excellent work and the superb videos.

[@treinenliefde]

Well David. Not to pry in your life but did you get the time to build one in the ladt six years?

[@drlodge]

@@treinenliefde no not yet, give me another 6 😁

[@bartoncessna1]

Another great vid. This is on track to become the definitive series for model railway How-Tos. Good job!

[@oceancity2006]

Excellent update on your latest project.

[@RumblerGaming]

Watching you rip that up at 14 minutes, oh my god that was SO soothing,

[@philmorton4590]

Nice station. Thanks for the video, very instructive, show me some of the best urban rail setup.

[@danielnewman391]

I've had no end of fun watching your videos and envying your layout (in a good way! lol), thanks for sharing all the great stuff! Look forward to more. Thanks.

[@RingoSimpkinsUK]

Great series Richard, I have delayed starting the new OO layout to get a few more tips under my belt off you. Learning loads of stuff I never though I'd need to know!

[@EverardJunction]

***** Thanks, next part will be up soon.

[@NityanandaBiswas2]

+Ringo Simpkins It is a effective model of building a develop railway . Elumpa psoriasis expert alchemist is a effective source.

[@themodelrailwayfiles6828]

+EverardJunction hi, I've just started my own channel about my Model railway called the model railway files which has 6 episodes at the moment. Your videos are really helpful for me and may layout. Also, can you remember what size drill bit you used to drill the holes for the point motors?

[@themodelrailwayfiles6828]

+EverardJunction Another great video. I was just wondering where you get your peco electrofrog points from? - because I can't seem to find any.

[@PeakeyFortySix]

Great mini series so far, really informative and very interesting! Food for thought! Thanks for sharing, Jack

[@ScottDowneywoundedbear]

You make track work look so easy. Making modifications to my track would not be that easy. You would destroy the track. I glued it down with liquid nails. Great job on the track work. The area looks great. Scott

[@Synthematix]

Illuminated buffer stops would look absolutely awsome on those sidings

[@blakek4750]

Ive always loved the American/English differences in terms: sleepers, points, carriages. It's fun.

[@ralphdadge302]

liking the new sidings & the point work changes.

[@richiesquest3283]

Great video as always rich. The route i have chosen with track planning is to use anyrail to plan the track and then export over to train player this allows you to actually run scale trains over your trackplan and do any adjustments prior to track laying.

[@percomotion]

Superb Richard you sure know what your doing mate you make it look so easy and like the way you speed up the video in parts makes it very watchable cheers Kev

[@EverardJunction]

percomotion Thanks Kev. Glad you like it.

[@ChapelEndJunctionUK]

Hi thier this is one of the best videos I have seen on laying new track and also taking out a section of existing track with minimal dissruption . Thank you I have learned so much from this video . Cheers.......Peter.

[@jackbrown2830]

Good job Richard really informative I'm looking forward to the next video keep up the good work

[@Bruno.Trains]

A wonderful display that works nicely, I do admire you artisanship!

[@mademodeller]

Excellent information on the kinking in the tracks on the other videos especially when you see them on the train cambs in real life you can see the track wobble but you never see it kinking well tha leased I haven't or I may have forgotten. The only thing I do different for your track laying on the male fish plate I'd put a dab of liquid solder and solder them together that way I know I get a good electrical connection between the two separate tracks. You've done a excellent video on track fitting look forward to seeing the treble point being done with the electric frog as I don't use these types mine are always insulated frog points: it will be nice to see how I can do one on my new layout.

[@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller]

Great update. Wish I had a pneumatic chisel to strip scenics that fast. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this piece if the layout. Couple of suggestions, first leave the buffers in where the scrap yard was. It's a nice little feature that depicts what was there and in real life these things are often left in place (especially around Derbyshire). Secondly (speaking of Derbyshire), have you seen the carriage and DMU sidings at Derby? Like your plan they are to one end of the station and have a mix of new and old buildings on the site. Thought they may be of use to you for inspiration when you begin the scenery.

[@EverardJunction]

***** Thanks, I'm doing research on carriage sidings and planning scenics at the moment. Like the buffer idea, i'm planning on doing a small disused area.

[@AVFCAM]

Another great vid. I've always wondered how you'd get a new piece of track in, now I know about teasing the fishplates!!!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Sorry for the late reply Richard, another great and informative video, I never get bored or tired of watching them and quite often come back to view again - they're that good! lol. It's really great to see something build up from it's inception to what will be the finished item. Looking forward to the next part already. ............Graham

[@EverardJunction]

Graham Foulston Many thanks Graham. I sometimes watch my own videos to remember how I did stuff! Certainly comes in handy. Cheers

[@GrahamFoulston]

EverardJunction Yep, I know what you mean. I have literally just finished watching your coach lighting video (again!) - there is a good reason why. ;-)

[@gregking9935]

This project is a master class on doing it right, great video

[@Official930Studios]

buidling a model railway is what I needed the most!

[@sub39h]

Brilliant video! Really starting to take shape!

[@neilsmith8110]

Superb video, watching you remove the old track shows how good the idea of laying cork under the track becomes for later alterations. In Australia the slight raising of the outer rail is called "Super elevation", is the same term used in the UK? Another way to undertake the joining of the track, is to remove the rail chairs with a scalpel on the sleepers at the joint. This way the sleeper is still attached, you can slide the fish plate onto the rail and there is no need to replace during ballasting. Many thanks for the ongoing hints, Neil

[@jacobporrett]

Coming along nicely. Great video.

[@NorthantsRcTrailDrivers]

excellent video series Richard. loving the build. it brings back the times, when I had layout's back at home. awesome stuff. :-)

[@davidcurtis5398]

I like the "fast forwarding" It makes me smile..... Like I said on previous video, I use a multi-tooland cut a slot under the throw bar. It works great.

[@minsterley2002]

Another great vid Richard. Always enjoy watching them. Dave

[@DudleyCentral]

Excellent video as always! Some very useful tips. Looking forward to seeing this scene develop. I quite like the idea of the fueling point by the DMU sidings, should look really good! Cheers Joe

[@TheShadeTreeFixitMan]

Lots of cool changes and some good tips

[@rhyspearsontrains]

you started this at the perfect time because im taking my layout to the next level

[@BB67407]

Hi Richard, very good tutoriel, Well done. Gérard.

[@faran1684]

Wonderful video...I'm new to these and it would take me a while to make something like this or would never but your video is very educating. Thank you 😊👌👍

[@wraggi1]

Nice vid and work as ever, I agree with one comment about the top three sidings possibly as shed coach storage, will you need the point work at the end of the shed? If so, viewing them will be a challenge. With the point work your doing on the far end of the station, this allows the shunter to run around any coaches, then back through the station, just an idea. All in all a great use of the space.... I'm enjoying your fine work, it'll look great. Regards Ian

[@EverardJunction]

wraggi1 Thanks Ian. The shed is just an idea at the moment, it may not span the full length. I need to do some more planning and research.

[@steburge1]

Looking really good! Nice work!

[@sitearm]

Fastest hammer in the West lol. Please keep posting. Question: Will you do a tutorial on how to wire a three-way point with powered frog? I watched your tutorial on how to wire a two-way point and I seem to remember you commenting the three-way was much trickier... I even think you muttered something about you "couldn't quite remember" how you did it lol Thoughts: Re a coach shed how will you be able to see the switches near the buffers - transparent roof perhaps? I like the idea of leaving room for scenery. Perhaps you could have some railroad men trundling carts and welding kits or whatever prototype yards do - similar to how you have passenger figures at your station platforms and your canal ad other.

[@EverardJunction]

sitearm Thanks. The 3 way point is in the next part and isn't too bad to wire up. I lost the instructions for my previous point so couldn't remember how to do it. Turns out its not too bad. The coach shed is only an idea at the moment. It may only span part of the rear section. Will see how things go.

[@Synthematix]

Your videos are bloody great mate been watching for years, im making a start in N gauge on a 6ft x 3ft plywood board soon, will look through your videos for some tips, excellent work matey

[@edwardhewitt3243]

Love your videos they have given me great ideas for my model railway

[@WoodyWoodblossomtrees]

Thank you this is just what Im about to do and its my first time with Peco and electro frog points so I might hang on to watch you do it. Great vid as per

[@aguyfromdenmark]

I was looking for information on Google's RAIL model. But this is quite nice as well.

[@wishawloyal1690]

realy enjoying watching your videos. my father and I are about to start a big layout and will be definitely using advice and techniques shown in these clips. only diffrence will be all our locomotives are analogue .

[@danieln.siskron8980]

Thanks for explaining that about the glue......I am going to build a model railroad something something like this..........down the road.......

[@thethirdman225]

Just a suggestion: pre-focus your camera and then turn of the AF. That will stop it from hunting.

[@modeltraingalleriesandscen6628]

Thank you so much for being so brave and sharing your video with us. Also discover All The "Closely Guarded" Model Railroading Tips, Tricks And Secrets You Need To Plan & Build Your Dream Model Railroad... dld.bz/dreamrailroad

[@stephaniemariedearden9344]

excellent video, thanks for sharing and keep up the great work :)

[@stewartd4435]

Thanks again for another great, informative video. Where can I get one of those Mini Jackhammer Chisels for pulling up ballast ? Nah, just joking, but it looked cool in time lapse. A trick for N gauge modelers, I mark sleeper pin holes with a sharp pin probe then dremel with fine drill bit bit using the dremel flexible extension. This leaves one hand free to hold everything in place although probably not such a problem in OO as it's not so small. Thanks again for sharing. Stew

[@NarwahlGaming]

5:30(ish) I might not be an expert at model trains, but, no. You always start at your root. You build a foundation before you start bringing in the trusses to your house. Unless you left something out that I haven't seen yet.

[@McRocket]

Very impressive. I like that you explain everything. I really like the music as well...what is it?

[@EverardJunction]

+McRocket All the music is from the KZbin audio library. There is loads to choose from.

[@testpage7294]

Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else is searching for how to build a model railroad layout try Vaxicorn Railroaders Membership Guide (just google it ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my m8 got excellent success with it.

[@AndyHudson-ModelRailwayBuilds]

Looking good Richard and yet again a very informative video, about the same place as you with laying track on Bodmin 2 but I'm in no rush, watched you seep point motors installation video but looking forward to seeing the 3 way installation on the next video Andy

[@EverardJunction]

Andy Hudson Thanks Andy. The 3 way point is covered in the next part, not too bad to wire up.

[@trainmanbob]

Going through the whole set of videos in one hit so apologies if any suggestions have already been made or are too late!!! Carriage sidings would also have held morning / overnight newspaper stock and Royal Mail sets, which would add a little variation to the yard. Cheers, Bob

[@philmorton4590]

Interesting use of 3 way shunts in the yard, i hadn't come across them yet, looks like they could solve my problem of how to get the maximum yard in a small edge of layout. My question is though how much do they exist in real world track?

[@callumjones7745]

Thanks for the tips! I am making notes on how to design, decorate, wire ect. my new set. Im reworking the older set in my grandmothers house. Tips for any good working welsh trains? Based in our local area of holyhead!

[@Modelrailwayengineershow]

Have you considered applying a little warm water to the dried ballast before prying it off? More mess but lifts easier. Nice result though and great vid.

[@EverardJunction]

On bigger areas I do that, works very well.

[@nicholasgabe6319]

I think your presentation is excellent unfortunately due to age and having Parkinson’s i am unable to build layouts myself so I am a watcher not a doer keep up the good work thanks nick

[@largesatsuma]

I love the choice of music for the time lapse sections. 1980s style, just like the railway itself.

[@EverardJunction]

Slim Charles Thanks

[@joesprinter8202]

Whilst I like the 3way point set, they have caused more derailments than almost anything else on my layout. I have removed them all and redesigned these parts of my layout.

[@Holyganker]

Sweet layout.

[@bloodmarine77]

Looking good Richard. Terry

[@VibingCat39]

Flexi Track in your friend, especially if you're using 6 axle locomotives.

[@TheProletariat.]

Curious if you've ever incorporated any bridges into your layouts?? Or use bridge flex track?? I have a large single loop (helix) about 200 inches total length that is basically one big bridge over my living room of my house. I just got this steel bridge hung over the weekend and will soon need to install the track too it. Ive already been using code 100 track on everything else. However I wasn't finding bridge flex track in code 100. Wasn't sure about simply adding another two rail sections to my code 100 to custom make bridge track... or purchasing code 83 and making a transition to it from my code 100. Hoping your experience could give this guy some ideas!!! lol ;) Love your videos!!! Totally amazing!!!

[@ivortomana]

A nice document.

[@henryhart7101]

I'm starting a new layout from scratch and like your idea of cork under the track. i was wondering where you get it from as i am struggling to find somewhere to buy it! Love the video series and the detail is great! Thanks

[@ianphilpott3121]

2ktechnologies sell the Javis cork sheets on Ebay.

[@jonathanlatham2267]

Another great video. Where do you get your peco flexitrac from and what is the tracks full order name? (Including numbers please)

[@IceManOregon]

fantastic presentation super helpful for me, wish I'd seen your video before I started on my layout 2 years ago! where do you buy your track? have you done a video on installing point motors?

[@karlnolan1ify]

A man of excellent information 😄

[@UncleBoratagain]

Q for buffs, is there a guide for signalling procedures in the 1980's? e.g how is control of a train handed over from one signal box to another? How would say a colliery order a train formation from a marshalling yard? teleprinter?

[@devganesh7808]

Lovely layouts! Being a beginner, I'm gathering all the info while setting my layout. I notice parts of your layout are at arms length, as is mine. How did you manage joining & soldering track while setting it up? Obviously, you must have done it at a more convenient location & moved the soldered track length up on completion? Ganny

[@keithwithchina2009]

there is another way of moving track that is ballasted and that is with very hot water. but of course you need to be careful..

[@davehorton946]

Hi Enjoyed the video Very well done ? did you cork the board all over that add corke under the lines to raise them and to make it easy to remove and change also did you pva the second cork under the rails or just hope the ballast and track to hold it down. cheers Dave.

[@ulc35]

Solid work!

[@DeanPark]

Ripping up ballasted point work, aargh how annoying! Still, we all change our minds, believe you me, I have changed my mind 1000 times! No matter what we want there is always limitations with track/point work and the space we have, Good update! Dave

[@EverardJunction]

DaveClass47 Thanks Dave. One of the main reasons for the cork is to make alterations easier. Looks much better with those points removed. Next part will be up soon. Cheers

[@ramiladevkota1210]

DaveClass47 everyone yy

[@rambabusoni8091]

Ramila Devkota theUKandIreland

[@roniloesgana6692]

Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else is searching for how to build a model railway layout try Vaxicorn Railroaders Membership Guide ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my colleague got amazing success with it.

[@shinysaur4655]

DaveClass47 what kind of scale is this

[@Castlebridge-00]

Hi Richard, Great video. I am learning such a lot from you. My layout may not start for a year but your tips are logged in my mind. What is your cork thickness? Would you have raised track in sidings. I will be modelling LMS stream in the early 40's and most photographs of that era show the terra firma to be level with the tops of sleepers or higher. Barry. Devon.

[@EverardJunction]

OBowner Hi Barry. The cork in this area is 1/32'' so very thin. This is to allow clearance for the uncoupling magnets I'll be putting in later. The appearance of the yard once scenic should be mostly level.

[@Worldseries601]

Got a bit of a question about track pinning. I'm planning to re-do my layout at some point and I'd like to know what you tend to do when it comes to holding track down. Considering the cork sheeting and such, I'm a little worried about over-driving pins and accidentally creating dips in the track.

[@MattyMonk]

As always, fantastic video. just a quick thought/idea.. what do you think of a track bed on that middle track, but no rails, as though they were used in the 70's and before, but taken away in 80's leaving stained ballest?

[@EverardJunction]

Matthew Squires Possible. I've got a little disused scene i'm planning on doing somewhere.

[@alanforsyth4671]

EverardJunction Perhaps combine your idea with Matthew's - shorten the 'short' siding 'til it's suitable for a shunter or two + buffer stop, but leave the sleeper-imprinted ballast for the rest beyond the buffer stop. Or perhaps old weed-ridden inset track past the buffer stop, due to an old yard area. Note that inset track would often be used for the fuelling point, too, to avoid damage to the sleepers. Anyway - it's looking good... :-)

[@poinchesterstation4514]

Hiya. I remember this excellent series very well and I remembered you using what I think is a Dremel or high speed drill. I'm 15 so correct me if I'm wrong. If it was a dremel what power/ revolutions per second is it. Or could you recommend what power tool I would require to simply cut a rail. I've heard a drill doesn't have high enough revolutions per second to cut the track

[@QRoutback]

Looking good

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Hi, Yet another very well put together video/update with excellent skills. Can I ask, did you use a standard 2” x 1” planed wood to gauge the distance between the tracks prior to pinning them down?

[@EverardJunction]

Simon Young The timber i used to space the track is 1'' wide. In places it's slightly wider for visual purposes to keep it all flowing smoothly.

[@Mookie1340]

Great film, you make it look so easy. What uncoupling mechanism will you be using with your Kadee coupling?

[@EverardJunction]

Mookie1340 I'll be using some very small magnets.

[@Mookie1340]

EverardJunction Thank you, I'll look forward to seeing how you go about it, as it's something I'd like to apply to my layout once it's up and running. Would it be possible to recap how to install the Kadee couplings themselves?

[@trainfest2790]

Hi Richard, great videos. I was just re-watching and wondered why you were using the crimping pliers on the joints in the speeded up part of the video?

[@EverardJunction]

+trainfest To slide the fish plates onto the rail. They can be stiff and hurt your fingers so i use pliers sometimes.

[@sandwelljunction6337]

Thanks for the informative video Richard 😁 I've just started my channel and will be building my first layout soon and your videos will be a very helpful reference source.

[@hegz1484]

if you had of flipped the triple points at the end of the sidings (for the run around) you could've had 1 short siding instead of 2 :D. other than that it is looking amazing. great series.

[@EverardJunction]

hegz1484 With the 3 way point the other way round I wouldn't have had enough space to run around 6 coach trains. So I flipped the point to it current position. Thanks

[@hegz1484]

EverardJunction oops :D i hadn't watched all of the other videos after this one when i made the comment... you did in the end, end up fliping that triple point around when you installed it. I can't wait for 9 :D Its going to be an amazing edition to this spectacular layout!

[@humbolt136]

Great progress :) I see your ballast almost peeled off the baseboard! Does the cork help reduce the sound of trains too?

[@EverardJunction]

Humbolt136 Cork does reduce noise, but once you glue the ballast and it sets the noise will increase again.

[@Dezmo59]

great helpful video ...

[@danieln.siskron8980]

I have a Couple Questions about : what kind of Glue would you use on that Cork section of Track ,you tore out, that goes into The New Yard you are building and how would you apply it, Would you use a paint brush to apply the Glue to the Cork to install it ?

[@EverardJunction]

Daniel Siskron I don't glue the cork down until I start ballasting. The ballast is glued with diluted PVA glue. Once dry that keeps everything in place. Hope that helps.

[@Tzemii]

Excellent video! What tool are you using to cut the track?

[@mayhewjunction9429]

Very enjoyable video Richard, the additional layer of cork to raise the track slightly is not glued down? We're the track pins hard to hammer through the veneer? Looking forward to part 4. Howard.

[@EverardJunction]

Howard Sugars Hi Howard. I don't glue the second bit of cork down as the weight of the track keeps it in place. Track pins are quite easy to hammer in. Not gluing the cork also allows for easy changes in the future if required. Hope that helps.

[@graffitijunkiejfk]

Amazing layout. Nice touch with the graffiti...

[@jakobeng1303]

Why don't you have a single slip switch for platform 3&4 so a train can depart from 4 to the outer track and at the same time one could come in on the 3