Building a supercar from scratch! - What I would do different next time.

"Prototype" means I'm just solving problems for the first round, but a few subscribers have asked what I would do different on the Arete supercar project if I did things over. This video delves into some of the changes or improvements I would make should version v2.0 materialize.
The seal on the windshield has been removed. See the video- • A50- The added labor o...
#BuilderCreator #AreteGT #Supercar #DIY #CarBuild

[@BuilderCreator]

The rubber seal around the windshield has been removed. See the updated look here- kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXqmZqaeoqaNmrM

[@TheGarynoel]

Phew. That rubber would have really dated the car and made it look like a kit car. Good job...

[@atx103]

Leave it works like a gutter

[@DavidGuyton]

As for the windshield, I would definitely get rid of the rubber. All those little details really add up and make an impression. I flush mounted the glass in my '65 Impala and it made a HUGE difference in the appearance. Another video idea I would like to see from you is how you keep so organized and motivated. Not the "neatness" kind of organized, but how you plan everything out and keep things rolling smoothly.

[@BuilderCreator]

One more vote for the rubber seal removal! I'll put the organization video on my list of future vids.

[@jackdeniston9326]

Did you notice wind noise change?

[@Cheva-Pate]

David Guyton I would love to se that Impala, i have i -65 Impala myself and i also want to flush mount!

[@DavidGuyton]

@@jackdeniston9326 If you are asking me....no there was no noise change. The glass is still installed in the same way, it's just raised up with metal stock welded in the channel, and the trim is not installed afterwards.

[@DavidGuyton]

@@Cheva-Pate I wish I still owned the car. There are a couple of videos of it on my channel if you wanna check it out.

[@tianjohan4633]

Flush mount windshield for sure, it will look so clean flush mounted.

[@chrisrozakis9292]

Flush mount windshield!!!!

[@2009mechanic]

Rear hatch hinges : look into the design of the SOSS invisible hinges. It is a double jointed hinge that fits in a pocket. You do not see the hinge. There are used for hidden doors in houses. It also lifts the door away from the jamb. Look into it. Would be an interesting touch.

[@alienpoker]

@@2009mechanic Yes, I was going to suggest dual-pin hinges to solve the problem. Once it is closed, it clicks into place flat.

[@MightySatria]

Happy that KZbin is promoting this channel and that it got recommended to me. Quality content. Will definitely get more popular in the coming days!

[@MightySatria]

also get rid of the rubber, it would look more clean!

[@nigelgraves8784]

With regard to your windscreen - remember that you're going to look at it every time you walk up to the car. And that rubber seal is going to scream 'this is not a supercar !' Apart from that - congratulations on having the cahones for even starting this project. Absolutely amazing !

[@HemiRoadrunner]

Absolutely incredible work. Totally blown away watching you designing and building everything yourself. Flush mounted glass wins the vote I see.

[@larrycanonga4825]

I am studying mechanical engineering, I want you to know that you are my inspiration, greetings from Mexico

[@goranpersson9530]

I've watch all the episodes now and the first I want to say is ... you're a true genius! You have inspired me to build my own sportscar and I believe that I'm not the only one. Keep doing what you're doing and I'm sure that that your channel will skyrocket! Greetings from Sweden.

[@BuilderCreator]

Välkommen! Great ! Maybe you can give that Christian Koenigsegg a run for his money!

[@thirdeyehigh]

Cut away the rubber around the windscreen please! It will make a massive difference. Absolute outstanding work. You are a special human.

[@jamesackerman723]

I'm a Mechanical Engineering student, and I really want to say you have definitely gotten me inspired with your videos, I've always wanted to take on a big project like this (not necessarily a car, but maybe ;)) and it's really awesome seeing your progress on this channel. So thanks! Greeting from Puerto Rico.

[@BuilderCreator]

Visited Puerto Rico in February, had a great time. Welcome to the channel. I hope you find a good (and difficult) project. Even if it's not a car, keep us informed; we would love to see what you cook up!

[@nick9463]

Simple minds are easily impressed.

[@jamesackerman723]

@@nick9463 I'd like to see you do better. Just the effort and time being put into a project like this is impressive. Unhappy minds are easily unimpressed.

[@rogerramjet8964]

Every vehicle is a romantic version of problem solving and aesthetic evolution.Can't wait until interior trim etc.

[@BuilderCreator]

@@rogerramjet8964 I have two whole cow hides in a fine warm orange waiting!!

[@bitkarek]

get rid of the rubber, the car will look old otherwise.

[@xhoopla6893]

The idea of a carbon inlay around the whole windshield to take up the room of the rubber, may be appealing also may be very strong. Thankyou for your videos!

[@toddaulner5393]

bit. Really like how simple you actually make it seem. Really inspiring. Great work! I appreciate your dedication! Great looking car also!

[@muratmo7054]

This guy is so underrated...should have a lot more subscribers..

[@adamy4162]

What an artist you are Sir , RESPECT!

[@fluxoteen]

Can i just say, I've seen a lot of fiberglass builds. This is the smoothest straight out of the mold body i have every seen! It looks fantastic

[@lgc7819]

This guy is the Bob Ross of supercar building! I could watch these videos for hours! Haha Keep up the good work!

[@islandlife9127]

That is going to be a very gorgeous super car.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Where "reveal to the world" is a design consideration! Nice work. :)

[@michaelvonneupert]

Another vote for removing the rubber from the windshield. I think not only the initial aesthetics will be improved, but the rubber will deteriorate and look rough over time. I think you made the right decision regarding the door/side window. I think the time you spend making a nice side window would be less than trying to make that irregularly shaped door work. Amazing work in any case and it's actually a privilege to give my opinion on a project like this.

[@BuilderCreator]

Well thanks for your input. Glad to have you along for the journey.

[@AmeerAli-cz4ky]

After 100 years it will be a piece of art

[@GrantOakes]

As for the windshield area I'd leave it for now. Resist the idea of going back and striving for perfection. Keep moving forward, you're doing great! After you're road worthy you can come back and tweak some areas.

[@BuilderCreator]

I'm far from a perfectionist, but it looks like I will be going back, cutting off the rubber trim and adjusting the windshield frame - till then, as you said, onward and forward - lots of other stuff to do!

[@mikls6830]

Wow ! What a project. You have so much talents. When some people are dreaming and do nothing. You realize your awesome car ! I wait to see it on the wheels ! (Mik from France)

[@johnbreedveld7708]

Absolutely!!! make many videos showing the process and snags throughout! As a Mechanic/ operating Engineer, I see many videos where they start the process, show the middle and the end. So it seems misleading to someone who knows the process and feels bad for the novice who wants to DIY for themselves and get stuck halfway through. I like to see how different people do their projects to see the different ways there done. Been on a fiberglass kick for a bit ,seen 100 videos but I've never seen the Honeycomb matt you used before! That's why I watch many videos on a single subject! Thank you Sir! I'm going to continue your series without skipping ahead!!!

[@mndlessdrwer]

In theory, if you were to throw the idea of a conveniently shaped rear sub-frame out the window and just placed all of the drivetrain components where you wanted them and moved forward from there to support them adequately, you could totally fit basically anything you wanted to into the back of that car. It's surprisingly spacious, after all. This would, however, make servicing those components more challenging because you end up packing the support structure pretty tightly to the engine, exhaust, and intake components. It also doesn't usually end up nearly so pretty, at least not without some significant efforts in fabrication. Take the custom twin-turbo exhaust systems that people have made for the Audi R8, for example. It's a car with a ludicrously tight amount of space for an exhaust system, but some people have decided to use 10 and 15 degree pie cut pre-bent tubing to craft incredibly complex and surprisingly large bore exhaust systems for it (though they do frequently run without a muffler, so there's that). Then look at Project Binky, from Bad Obsession Motorsports, where they took an Austin Mini and crammed the entire running gear, drivetrain, and engine from a turbocharged 2.0L AWD Toyota Celica into it. The amount of work put into fitting a drivetrain into a space where it clearly doesn't fit is mind-boggling, but it can be done. The downside is that you end up with an engine bay so tight that ceramic coating and woven rockwool insulation aren't done for aesthetic purposes but out of necessity to keep the exhaust from literally melting the parts nearby them. Basically, if you poured a cup of water onto the warm engine bay, it would never reach the ground. In this case, if you were to employ a larger alternator and a more substantial battery, you could place things like the intercooler wherever you liked by utilizing electric fans to cool it. You could even go so far as to make the up-draft aero hood even more substantial, diving almost through to the floor of the front chamber, and then stack a radiator for engine coolant, a radiator for a water to air intercooler, a heat exchanger for AC, and even an oil cooler up front, backed by a custom fan shroud to pull air through all of them and up out of the hood. And you'd still have space in the front for a battery or two, fluid tanks, and the front differential. It just gets tight and you'd probably have to rework some of the suspension geometry for the shock actuator levers, but moving them back doesn't necessarily change how they function as long as they still pivot properly and you have a mount in a suitable location on the upper control arm. I would also probably opt for an electric hydraulic pump for hydraulic steering assist, as it is between a common hydraulic steering assistance and electric steering assistance in terms of feel, but allows you to remote mount the pump wherever is suitable, since the fluid is incompressible and the length of the hose is somewhat irrelevant. Another option if you ever decide to redesign the sub-frames is to utilize even longer control arms and narrow the subframe even more between the front wheels to allow you to use a closer steering ratio with longer pivot arms, allowing you even more steering angle on each side without scrubbing the wheels on the tubbed arches or suspension components, which would allow you to make more aggressive steering corrections while driving, or even open up the options for drifting, as long as the rear bias of the central differential allows for it. One option if you want a more rear-biased AWD system and you're willing to buy expensive salvage parts is to find an AWD Lamborghini and use its transmission and differentials for this, as it would be closer to a plug-and-play solution in terms of front to rear biasing, as it was already designed for a mid-engine AWD configuration. Porsche also made use of similar transmissions for their AWD 911 variants, so that's another possible option if the current solution doesn't provide the bias that you want. The fact that you're able to build your own adapter plates and junction tubes is already to your benefit when it comes to adapting drivetrains to your needs. The Audi R8 is another option, too. The only complication to all three of these related options is dealing with whatever transmission and diff control signals the VW-Audi group use to manage them.

[@LTCDRRAZOR]

For your hinges for the back section, look at the recessed hinges for cabinet doors for some inspiration.

[@cosimocinieri8153]

La sua intelligenza e bravura va oltre ogni aspettativa, avrei voluto avere un maestro come lei ,complimenti sinceri.

[@djes.36]

Hey there, amazing progress you've made. One thing about the windshield, I work with glass. The windshield is made of laminated glass with a PVB plastic foil in between, that foil will become white if the edges of the glass are left in moist conditions. So if you take it out make sure to still project the edges of the glas.. Again, amazingly inspiring to see. Keep on going man.

[@BuilderCreator]

THANKS! Now that is a very useful piece of information. I will take that into consideration as the glass will have been stripped of any protection. Glad to have others experience! Welcome to the new world of social media.

[@williamgoode9114]

Djessey Is there not a physicality to rubber mounting glass, especially in this flexy body

[@williamgoode9114]

Also glass replacement , have you thought of that, say it gets a stone chip and you've just fiberglassed it in place

[@BuilderCreator]

@@williamgoode9114 Fiberglassing will only be to form the new frame edge. Once the new edge is done the glass will be installed the traditional way with flexible rubber sealant.

[@pogcarr]

As for the little quarter window, I would include it in the door, but not as a little pointy bit. Instead, cut the aft edge of the roof/door parting line back to the point of the window. This will make the door look better as it is a but narrow in the roofline area and really wide in the side. Adding a bit more roof to the door will make it look more balanced, AND you will be able to incorporate the quarter window in as one piece.

[@GODMODEPLUS]

In a pandemic, guy manages to build super car, while I struggle to take out garbage 2 meters away. FML

[@jimmypopp2695]

The crazy thing is that I am not an engineer. I am a chemist. You are truly a great man!!

[@BuilderCreator]

Well, without chemists this car would have had to be sewn together. Ha!

[@jimmypopp2695]

@@BuilderCreator Love ya brother!!! I went to wyotech to get my master technician's cert for repairing Lamborghini's and Ferraris .when I graduated high school. IN 2017 I cam e back to PA and helped take care of my mother who got M.S. After she passed I went back to USF for my chemistry Master's but when Covid Hit I went to work for FC Kerbeck repairing Lambos and Faerraris again. I became very specialized in repairing sheet metal with mig, tig and SMAW. I was on my way to starting a mobile welding business when I was contacted by a pharmaceutical company and a whole bunch of other stuff happened . I was hit on my Harley and had extensive blood clots. When I got to the hospital they said I had less than ten minutes as they rushed me to surgery. I survived and am here.A few years ago I bought a basket case 911 and all my friends said no one could weld swiss cheese. I paid a couple hundred bucks and two years and many rolls of mig wire and sheet metal I sold the 911 for 36k to pay for all my medical bills.Sorry for the rant but I have not told anyone that . Thank you for your vids!! I hope to talk with you sometime. where are you located?

[@BuilderCreator]

@@jimmypopp2695 Glad your on the mend. Mobile welding- good business to start with a small capitol equipment investment. Start with "what works" and upgrade the equipment as the cash flow builds. If that's your direction. I'm located in southern Oregon.

[@jimmypopp2695]

@@BuilderCreator Thank you for the excellent direction. I first purchased a miller roughneck AC 220 welder that I have been doing specifically heavy equipment repairs on the weekends. I found an old sureweld military DC welder that I use for the arc gouging and various DC projects. What is really paying the bills or shall I say buying the tools I want and need is my ability to weld cast iron. Everyone says it cannot be done and I have done a few engine blocks with blown out walls from connecting rods as well as cast iron repairs on forklifts where the parts are not made any more. I have an old Dayton buzz box that I do some heavy lifting with when I am near the barn. I have practiced and practiced butt welding sheet metal for repairs on mower decks and other quick money repair jobs. I have done a lot of sheet metal work on car restoration and old truck restoration jobs.. I have a little arc welder for most of these jobs as well that is 115 volts.I found a young and wright lathe from the early 1900's on saturday and went and bought it from a guy for $200. He found it in his new house.I just made a deal for a Westinghouse 300 amp welder on a trailer that I am picking up this weekend coming. I really love doing the repairs because it is so rewarding in many ways.next weekend I am going to Mass to pick up a Hobart welder with a 100% duty cycle and 220 amps that will easily go on a trailer I built from Harbor freight. Buying all these pieces of equipment still was under 1000$. I love tools but if they are found with the right price they will last a lifetime and pay for themselves quickly. Hopefully we can meet up at Fabtech this year or even maybe SEMA. Thank you for your ideas my friend.

[@chrstphrr]

Not enough thumbs up could be given. Thank you for showing all you have on the Arete build, and taking the time to look back mid way and look back in hindsight for changes.

[@LayZeeDawg]

I am currently toying with a moldless construction on a Morgan Plus8 /MG-TD type tub. It's a simple form, quickly built up and reinforcements can be incorporated into the foam core and the simple flat surfaces are perfect for this.

[@BuilderCreator]

Perfect for those not wanting or able to commit to creating molds. Make sure you put up some pictures on Instagram and connect over there. Always interested in others projects.

[@dannyvdwiel3822]

With all the afford and time in this project I would personally remove the windowrubber for sure, the project is allready so clean! Dont bail out on those pieces! I keep following your project! Do awesome craftmenwork... all the complexity in the project and all the work.. you are really a awesome person!!! Keep on going this great work!!

[@RichADio]

I think removing the rubber seal on the windshield is the best route. The extra work will be worth it with the final product.

[@brianmogle1121]

Yes, get rid of the rubber seal around the windshield. You will be happier after you get it done and the result will be a lot cleaner. Utilize technology available to improve your project. You will most likely need to add front and rear fender vents to alleviate the air pressure in wheel wells at high speed that can cause the car to lift when you are going for 200mph.

[@keithstone3263]

Trim off the moulding around the windshield. Unless you bring the lip on the roof, A-pillars, and valance up so the windshield isn't in such a deep recess. If the windshield sat higher then you could leave the moulding on to hide the windshield glue and help fill in that 1/4" gap that you need around the windshield to allow for body flex and binding against the glass.

[@soundsofpeace6468]

I truly admire your ambition and dedication towards this goal you have set

[@longroth4882]

I say nix the rubber seal on the windshield, it'll have a much cleaner look. Your foot-well doesn't look any narrower than a Countach, roominess is nice to have, but usually one of the trade-offs with exotic cars. If luck is on your side you'll have a little extra clearance in the tunnel area you can take advantage of at the front for some extra pedal room. Loving the build so far.

[@BuilderCreator]

May be getting a 3 inch expansion of the foot well. . stay tuned.

[@ChrisKsan]

You are probably aware, but beyond looks, there are 3 functional reasons, small details that matter, why modern cars have a smooth transition, getting rid of the rubber around the windshield: 1. To help reduce drag coeficient by contributing to more fluid surfaces, which improves fuel economy, range and performance overall. Considering the ever stricter governmental and international regulations on emissions and efficiency, every small detail counts and helps. 2. Over time, that rubber tends to fail, crack, flake, warp from thermal cycles and UV exposure, creating humidity or actual leaks, which causes rust etc etc. 3. Manufacturing time is cut down a bit by the fact that instead of having additional steps to fit the rubber seal around the windshield and then fit them both in place, an adhesive bead is laid by a robotic arm and immediately after the windshield is just dropped and layed into place while the vehicle moves on to the next station of assembly as the adhesive cures. So in short: Yes, it makes a lot of sense to get rid of the rubber seal, in the context of modern cars and reasons mentioned above.

[@michauw3567]

What a great channel. You really inspired me!!

[@notmenyc]

Get rid of the rubber! The car will look modern comparing to today's supercar. You're doing an Amazing job.

[@nssherlock4547]

Leave the rubber seal mount, till you know how much flex there will be.(Where are the door hinges located ?). You don't wont to end up like some Mclarens, cracking screens, because the glass became a stressed panel. Sort that with V2. Great work, the AWD makes the front end extra tricky. Fun times !!

[@ItsCreated]

Leave the rubber trim for now. You’ve got bigger priorities and I think the car as a whole is so amazing that anyone other than you won’t see rubber windshield trim and think to themselves “awww the car looks so outdated” lol.

[@corporalclegg914]

Wow. I didn’t see that coming. a Cavalier would’ve been 169th on the list of any, “guess what model windshield I used was,” type question. do whatever makes you happy, Hombre...don’t ask us Mass Pro Auto Owners. keep killing, Dude.

[@filipvens3951]

09:50 I would remove the rubbertrim. If I was building a car, I would spend more time just so I could get it just how I want it.

[@BuilderCreator]

Looks like the consensus is to cut it off. (rubber trim) I know it will look better, just needed a little shove to push me to do it. I guess I will have a video coming- "window frame modification!"

[@petemarshall9212]

​@@BuilderCreator Keep it easy replace the windshield.

[@christianbyachts]

Trim off the seal. Amazing work.

[@BuilderCreator]

You can catch the trim and re-fit in this video. - kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6bGp3aJrLGUfsmeaz

[@up2tech]

A future Lamborghini... I mean, like it’s creator that is sharing piece by piece how to build a real supercar.

[@jacksmiles47]

Flush mount the windshield brotha, that rubber gasket is going to just detract from the overall awesome appearance. Keep up the good work though, I'm digging the videos. Thanks for sharing!

[@johnkar724]

Hi, nice job! i would not use a rubber seal because they damage over time. your best option with out would look better too! The countach used a metal strip thats another way. Keep up the good work!!

[@RandomCookieTalks]

I would remove the rubber from the windshield. Little details like that will really set your supercar build from the others!

[@StuMunro]

For future reference, the gt86 has a manual rack as it has electric power steering in the column.

[@deewank7]

i really appreciate your work and your supercar design is just awesome can't wait to see it drive! love from india.

[@BuilderCreator]

Lots of views from India! We should set a fan club there. Haha!

[@deewank7]

@@BuilderCreator yeh sure sir.

[@johnmoser2689]

The progress looks great

[@tomthumb3085]

The windscreen rubber seal, in my opinion, doesn’t really make too much of a difference to the aesthetics. Obviously, the modern trend is a fully bonded screen, but would this involve a redesign of the entire screen recess and the filling and finishing of the roofline.? Ultimately, the choice is a slavish adherence to modernity or more practicality. The glass may not be suitably edged for bonding and at least the seal gives a high degree of flexibility. I personally would keep the seal. Great project, and hats off to your attention to detail and build quality. Which ever way you decide will be the best way for you, so ultimately the correct way for the project. Thanks fo a very interesting series.

[@BustAbeam]

Absolutely love it, I wish there would've been a way to get this kind of access and insight 15 years ago... I would've probably made some different choices in life. Amazing work and I really appreciate you putting together this very informative video. Really, great work and all the best to you ;)

[@BuilderCreator]

The next 15 years starts today.

[@MECH7428]

Windshield - 3 points. 1. It's a prototype. Things will change as you develop the car. Keep the rubber for the prototype. 2. Aircraft windscreens are sealed in place, with some room in the frame for flexing to prevent cracking the glass. 3. If you go with sealing it in place, use a bed of urethane windshield sealant for cushion, and embed two or three wraps of nylon cord around the edge, beneath the outer sealant to make removal far less damaging and difficult than digging through lots of goo.

[@BuilderCreator]

The rubber is gone (going) and I will be using the urethane sealant - the nylon chord is an excellent idea. I've tried to remove a good windshield from a car. Pain-it- the-patuty!

[@joserios1948]

Ive been an auto glass tech for 10yrs. You do NOT want to do ANYTHING to make windshield removal "easier" in any way. Windshields are designed with 3 issues in mind 1) Roll over roof collapse 2) Passenger airbag deployment and 3) Front end collisions. The windshield is supposed to be bonded to the pinchweld of the vehicle with auto glass urethane. Each urethane has specific qualities and install instructions, and nothing should be in between the urethane bond to the glass or the vehicle. It is the only safe way to install a windshield. Cutting through the urethane is the only proper way to remove a windshield. They have many tools on the market now that prevent, or minimize, vehicle damage during removal. But making a windshield "easier to remove" is the last thing you would want to do. In fact, you should be going for the opposite. Make sure that the windshield will NOT come out, under any circumstances, unless it is being cut out by an auto glass professional 🤙👌

[@joserios1948]

@@BuilderCreator that windshield was THAT difficult to remove for a reason. The windshield in your vehicle needs to be the same way. Safety first my friend 🤙👌

[@BuilderCreator]

@@joserios1948 well said and heard.

[@peterpark8486]

wow great. can't wait to see the result.

[@dazzx10r]

I would leave the rubber trim on the screen, if you're bonding the screen into place then the rubber trim will hide the bonding adhesive. The Lotus Elise/Exige has a rubber trim around the screen for this reason.

[@scottneal2738]

Make sure the narrow door seal is really reinforce since it's so narrow. Protection for side impacts.

[@chraven69]

Front and rear door pillars, like where are they. And theres a reason that the door seals are so big. Its because the load from the front of the car, is transmited through them to the rear of the car, and the rest of the body is conected to that. Ok you did say that your making the tunnel apart of that. This should be the sub frame that conects the front suspension sub frame the the engine sub frame. Just like the lotus esprit has. But please remember the body has a sub frame aswell. Otherwise your car will have no structure to it and will be dangerous. Remove the seal around the windshield. Its used to seal the windshield after its bonded to the windshield frame.

[@chris24gone]

the windshield rubber is not just a seal, it allows the window to flex. if you bond the window to the frame it will probably crack at the first hard bump. the only other alternative is to heat bend some polycarbonate around the windshield and go with a lexan windshield.

[@ProjectSupercar]

I think the problem with windscreens, in all self build cars, is trying to make it look OEM, or factory. Windscreen, glass and headlight seals are almost impossible to get right on a budget and through DIY; the finish never looks right. Even TVR couldn't quite get it right. So if you opt to remove the factory seal, you may lose the factory look, and possibly run the risk of making the windscreen install look amateurish, which would be a shame as the rest of the car certainly doesn't look amateurish at all. If you think you can do your own "OEM" seals, then my hat comes off to you for trying. I'd be interested in the results. :)

[@josephschaefer9163]

You can shim steering racks. People take shims out for more steering angle in drift cars. You can easily customize the travel

[@Handmadeextreme]

Hiya. Really interesting project. Found the channel a couple of days ago and I've watched a couple of the videos now and it looks like you are making good progress. I have a similar project in the pipeline at the moment. I'm planning to do a build series on my channel as well if you are interested. Regarding the windscreen seal; Yes remove it. You have done all that work it would be a shame to spoil the ascetic with a bit of ugly 90's technology. You will get a much sharper finish and you can match the gap and flush with the other fits around the vehicle. I think you will be glad you did, once you have. All the best of luck, I admire your dedication and appreciate the amount of effort it has taken you to get this far. 👍

[@SETHalpine]

As I had to leave my garage, before the end of the realization of the master/plug ... I used the method that you described ... And at the time, I did not know the existence of a fiberglass fabric like 50g ... I took 200 ... I quickly made the surface of my plug before the forced relocation and having to break it.. A year later ... I took this plug again ... Piece by piece. For example, I didn't reinforce the wing with a wooden structure ... I just removed 20cm2 of foam, fiberize that part from the inside, and then remove another 20cm2, and so on. Since I no longer had a garage, I did this in my apartment, each part after the other ... Did I mention that the master had been cut into 40 pieces to fit in 2m3 room storage for a year ...? It's hard to rebuild a broken egg ... :) Never give up on a project. Just try to finish it later.

[@BuilderCreator]

The second time around is always better; we sometimes cling to the old for sake of time or money, but end up glad to have the improvement in the end.

[@ronaldjacobs8561]

Its wise to use a stock windshield as it can easily get cracked by a rock or something else. makes replacement easy and affordable. As far as the rubber trim, I would consider what people have tried it have to say the most. Such as David Guyton. Aesthetics is important. My inclination would be to remove it for aesthetic and aero reasons. After all the work you have already put into it, you might as well go that extra mile.

[@keithspencersr.6806]

Removing the rubber would have a great look, but the seal maybe a big headache, either way the work is still there.

[@20lancer03]

Remove the rubber trim from the windshield for sure! That car is coming along way too well to be ruined with rubber trim. Amazing work!!

[@BoomerKeith1]

Since you're building this from the bottom up I would go ahead and remove the molding on the windshield. It's one of those things that will not only look better but if you didn't do it, it would bother you every time you saw it!

[@AnthonyIlstonJones]

With regards to the footwell, have you considered mounting the organic component (ie. the driver) in the middle of the vehicle? That would give you the space you need for feet & pedals, and you could use two small-ish seats behind the driver at either side like McLaren did with the F1. Apart from getting another seat in, it means the driver (the most important component) has more room & can concentrate better on the actual driving.

[@BuilderCreator]

Excepting there is a transmission and center differential in a tunnel there. I have fixed the foot room problem however. see this video- kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXqmZqaeoqaNmrM

[@Lookbusybuddy]

Building cars round people in driving position would make sense. That way can see out windows from side, front, back. Had an mx5 mk1 and had to roll out of it. 😀

[@andrewziegler2608]

Ya I would cut the rubber off around the window, but maybe after the build is done. I think driving it first is more important. I’m sure after driving it, there would be other things you would have to change anyway

[@toddaulner5393]

Filling the roof and pillars to match up to the windshield seems the easiest plus strengthens the roof a biy.

[@wyore4344]

hi...most builders are using a "uni-body", complete, floor pan to simplify their body build/mods. many channels already show that approach; and it's a great time saver, since steering and suspension are already figured out. (much easier to modify steering and suspension than invent it!). great job overall...i have been doing this off and on for 50 years...would've suggested you tapped into existing knowledge/experience a little more at the start. Good Job! walt.

[@BuilderCreator]

Thanks Walt. I never wanted this project to be easier. My only regret (okay, their are probably many.) is that I didn't incorporate the suspension pick up points in the monocoque. When I started I didn't have the knowledge (and a few tool ) that I now have.

[@oscaraguilera2370]

Remove the trim. Great job, I love your videos.

[@joserios1948]

Consult a few different auto glass shops about windshield options. Ive found that in my 10yr auto glass career, even the most knowledgeable mechanics have no clue about windshield procedures. Auto glass is a specialty trade that is only taught to people that are IN the auto glass business. There are no classes you can go take for it. So a lot of people are just misinformed, and spread misinformation about the subject. As for your question....... Leave it on if you want to get away with not having to make the edges of the frame perfect. And i mean PERFECT! Take it off if you dont care about how much time and energy you are going to spend making the edge of the frame look perfect. And i...... mean...... PERFECT!!! Also, if you decide to remove the rubber trim from the glass, just look into a glass that doesnt come with a rubber trim on it. That would be easier than having to buy that same windshield and cutting off the trim again risking glass damage.

[@joshsoorlin579]

Flush mount / erase rubber trim windshield, certian things really date cars, headlights, trim, plastic, and window rubber- the flush mount will make it current looking. Also wear a respirator please n protect health ur a genius

[@DYFEA]

Great advice!! Im probably gonna have to watch the last section once or twice more to fully understand this moldless method

[@ahmedathif8821]

Trim the rubber off that will be more modern.

[@angelmarti804]

Great video. I hope you place the windshield directly to the body. It's your supercar, not donor body. Thanks for these special videos.

[@YoungFox]

hello from Ottawa Canada loving your channel and build #diycar #ev #dde #cars

[@Punisher255]

YES Flush mount windshield! Will look much more clean

[@MindDezign]

Those hinges you may want to look into the front hood hinges on a Porsche 550 Spyder, then look at how the 550 Replicate solutions were. Also the Datsun Z range of cars from 69-78 the rear hatch hinges have , the same body line challenges as you have. You may find a solution. Face Book groups is your Friend. You wind shield to get the upgrade look you need to, urethane it in. But I would make the up grade easier on my self . I would use "plastilen Clay" So drying time is not an issue Then use cloth over the plastilen make a windshield mold. Then pull a part out bonding it to your existing frame ,trim and body fill the seam edges.

[@BuilderCreator]

The change has already been completed. Yo can see the process I used here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6bGp3aJrLGUfsmeaz Thanks for your comment/suggestions.

[@AFragolaDesign]

Wow! Amazing project! I know what I’m going to be binge watching for the next few nights! Brian @xsmotorworks told me about your channel, can’t wait to watch more!

[@BuilderCreator]

Just went and checked out your channel! I'll be following your MR2 project. Interested to see your Fusion 360 to CAM process for the 5axis. I see Brian is using Rhino and you Fusion is that preference or budget?

[@WireWeHere]

Aluminium 3M tape over the rubber windshield surround to add historical perspective. Any attachment to the rubber will soon be released allowing it to be discarded.

[@CavemanGaming]

You should look at Mustang electric steering racks. Easy fit.

[@BuilderCreator]

Didn't see one in the wrecking yard. Set up for now with the Toyota, but if i have problems I'll look into one.

[@georgeyoung613]

Get rid of the seal. I know its a lot more work. But right now is the absolute best time to make that change. If you don't but decide to after she is in paint, that's going to be even more work. Also its a modern super car. Dont leave the wind screen looking like it came of a 280Z

[@vitorc4002]

Great video Jarvie, I learned a lot with this even details like an organized garage/ workshop. Good cheap solutions for details. I wish you were my neighbor :) . Keep with a good job and inspiring others like myself just starting a project car.

[@jeffkushen5586]

LOL, Spends +$200K fabricating a car from scatch, says "I went with a window from a Chevy Cavalier so i can keep costs down..." Still AMAZING work and techniques.. so many things I would have NEVER thought of...

[@BuilderCreator]

Running at about $27,000 at the moment will likely not go much past $30K.

[@BallinBuilds]

that thing is amazing!!!!

[@Nevertrustalawyer]

Yes, it’s worth the time to reconstruct the windshield. If you don’t, people might confuse it with a “kit car”.

[@kareemabdelhady9955]

get rid of the rubber for sure, its totally worth the extra work , great project ,looking forward to your upcoming videos.

[@bonlbonkx3307]

I would love to see this car

[@down2earthparanormal145]

txx for the vid u inspired me to start my own home made car project

[@BuilderCreator]

Great, Today is the day . . .get on it!

[@mikemakuh5319]

If you have ANY flex in the windshield perimeter area you will be able to replace lots of windshields.

[@GermanTopGameTV]

When you chose to go for a flush mounted windshield, have a plan for removing the windshield. You might need to replace it if you get a stone chip on the glass or it might crack - you have not done any analysis of chassis flex at this point and you don't know wether your frame might introduce lots of stress into the glass. When you bond it to the chassis, chose a glue that as a chemical weakness - one that your epoxi resin doesn't have. In most steel and aluminium body cars heat is used to weaken the glue and extract the glass. You cannot use this technique as it will melt your epoxy body at the same time. Maintenance is a key component of design, and the windshield needs to maintainable.

[@TheMeta6]

You just wire cut it out like most modern cars, I've never once seen one removed by heat in 20 years in the motor trade!

[@GermanTopGameTV]

@@TheMeta6 Well maybe I'm just an idiot for doing it that way on my car when the screen cracked lol

[@brianmogle1121]

Thank you for sharing your passion!

[@JoelKSLC]

I vote to remove the windshield molding. Another awesome video!

[@terrybonitatibus24]

Try looking at a bifold hinge from a lazy Susan corner cabinet door that might get the clearance you need for the rear bonnet.

[@WATCHING-247]

It may seem odd but there are very common kitchen door hinges which are very slimline and will provide the movement you require for the rear hatch

[@BuilderCreator]

I have arrived at a solution. I will surly make a video of the hinge fabrication, thanks for your input.

[@WATCHING-247]

@@BuilderCreator Ok I look forward to seeing how it turns out