Building a USB powered PIR/Radar adaptor for LED strings.

This is a module that allows standard PIR and radar body-detector modules to be used with a standard USB power supply to switch a string of parallel LEDs (or just one higher powered one).
Note that some small modules don't have the output in the middle and will need hooked up with three individual wires. (You can also do that with the other modules if you want more positioning options.)
I used a 2-pin USB connector that in hindsight could have been mounted as a through hole component with the securing tabs also being soldered. It makes it easy to hook up to a USB power bank or plug-in supply. The power bank will need to be the type that puts out a steady 5V all the time without pulsing it or going into a sleep mode.
The PIR modules have a very low standby current and will run for a very long time in standby, but the doppler radar units draw a bit more current for their RF oscillator and a power bank will not last as long between charges in standby. (But still a long time.)
You can connect the common battery operated parallel strings of LEDs to these units, but if the ones with chasing effects are used only every second LED may light due to alternate LED polarities.
The choice of output resistors will affect the LED intensity and run time. The two 10 ohm resistors suggested will give about 100mA which is the maximum recommended for the BC547 transistor.
100mA is good for fairly long strings at good intensity, with good power bank run time.
The doppler unit can see through plastic for outdoor use, but will also pick up ambient foliage movement.
The Giaco maker knife website:- giaco.com/
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of KZbin's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

[@JerryEricsson]

Very cool video, I am sitting here in the living room with my wonderful wife of 51 years. She is asleep on the couch as the cancer that has taken over her body eats away at her organs and makes her body ever weaker. Our daughter who has moved in to help care for her has gone off to her bedroom for a nap, and watching your videos has the usual effect of relaxing me so much I too drifted off for a short time. So it is, I rewound to where I drifted off, and caught back up! Thanks so much for the videos, it takes me away from the horror's of old age and allows me a bit of freedom to relax and enjoy the old hobby that I have had to set aside so I can care for the love of my life, as she nears her end.

[@christianblack2916]

That's rough, Jerry. Small pleasures and discoveries are so good for people under pressure. Take good care of yourself.

[@sofa-lofa4241]

Sorry to hear that Jerry, I'm glad that Clives videos give you some respite during this tough time

[@phxf]

If you’d like another KZbinr who has a relaxing aura and a crafting topic, take a look at TheCrafsMan’s channel. He’s brought me a lot of comfort during this difficult year

[@Lumibear.]

So sorry to hear how life is currently treating you. You may also like Randi Rain, I recently discovered her. She takes apart old tech, most commonly electronic toys, and fixes them, and I find her video similarly relaxing. No shouting, swearing, loud noises, phat beats or screams, just quiet and careful tear downs and fixes of old tech.

[@jerrys9426]

Sorry to hear about your wife's illness. Sounds like you're a wonderful husband too. With best wishes

[@cedricpod]

in a world that is upside down ..... you are a calming , joyful voice. very fun to watch.

[@danyf3116]

I always think of him as Bob Ross. His little blue clouds are his reversed engineered diagrams.

[@padddy48]

@@danyf3116 hahaha yeah you are right he is a little bit like the bob ross of electronics 😂

[@stevematthey6676]

Clive, your comment about component heat tolerance @9:40 reminded me of building electronic projects with my dad in the late 60's. He would always put a tiny alligator clip on the transistor leads when soldering in place to act as a heat sink. Usually followed with blowing on the board. I still find myself doing this today.

[@just_noXi]

New Anker Powerbanks now have the feature to stay awake if you doubleclick the button. Very neat for projects like this.

[@clemensgraetz]

My Xiaomi 10.000 mAh Powerbank does that to. Its useful die cheap wireless headphones to.

[@pfeerick]

Unless Xiaomi have changed the design, I think the 'stay awake' double press is only active for two hours... or at least that's the case with my 10,000mAh unit. Which I find handy for charging my mini multi-rotors, as the normal 'load detection' power bank power saving circuitry usually doesn't let them finish charging properly.

[@LordWilsonVILLA]

Clive, After years of soldering stuff, I picked up the habit of blowing on each joint I solder to help cool it down. I must confess while watching you solder in this video I found myself blowing to help cool it down - mad or what!

[@bigclivedotcom]

Quite a few others do the same and also intuitively breathe out when the flux fumes move towards the camera.

[@ozonesama]

I used to instinctively blow on my (phone's) screen while watching DIY videos to move the sawdust/metal-dust away from the work. 🤐

[@CanadairCL44]

Clive, this is great - I want to build one! I really appreciate the time you take to make these tutorials and pass on your knoledge and experience so generously. All the best to you!

[@JamesMossR33]

I'm using two of these PIRs in my under-bed lighting project and they work very well. They work with an LDR and ESP8266, talking to Home Assistant over MQTT. There's around 6m of neopixel LED tape and I can control the colour effect, light threshold, time on, etc. Works great and stops the good lady stubbing her toes in the night.

[@martinmacey4099]

What a great idea Clive, once again you made many of us chuckle with the Hot, Hot, Hot.. reminded me of the many times I have done the same when soldering.

[@williamsquires3070]

Combine 1 light sensor, 1 Doppler sensor, a vanity mirror w/frame, a strip of RGB LEDs (for lighting the mirror), a microcontroller that has a RTC (or Raspberry Pi), a fog generator, a solid-state relay that takes 3.3/5v logic levels from your micro or SBC-of-choice and has outputs compatible with the power in your country, a speaker (or the aux input to a working, but unused stereo), and some software and you can roll your own “magic mirror on the wall”. Put the RGB LED strip in the frame of the mirror (making sure not to break the mirror), and wire to the digital output(s) of your micro. Wire the 2 sensors to digital inputs, and put the light sensor outdoors to detect when it’s nighttime. Put the Doppler sensor somewhere near (but hidden) the mirror so it picks up when someone approaches the mirror. Drill a hole at the top of the mirror frame, and rig some tubing from the fog generator to this new hole. Also hide the speaker behind the mirror, and wire it to the audio output from your SBC or micro. Finally, you’ll need power for this get-up, and plug the fog generator into the solid state relay so it comes on when the input goes logic high. Also, set the time/date on the RTC for the micro or SBC. loopTop: IF todayDate != THEN b = DigitalRead(dopplerSensorPin); IF b THEN call TurnOnLED(RGB(255, 255, 255)); ELSE call TurnOffLED(); END IF ELSE // Spooky mirror effect when dark AND person in front of mirror. b = !DigitalRead(lightSensorPin); IF b THEN // It’s dark out. b = DigitalRead(dopplerSensorPin); IF b THEN // Spooky mirror effect! call TurnOnFog(); call TurnOnLED(RGB(128, 0, 0)); // blood-red call TextToSpeech(“Who dares disturb the magic mirror!”); call Delay(5, “MINUTES”); // give time for person to flee in terror! call TurnOffFog(); call TurnOffLED(); ELSE // no one there. END IF ELSE // Not dark out b = DigitalRead(dopplerSensorPin); IF b THEN call TurnOnLED(RGB(255, 255, 255)); ELSE call TurnOffLED(); END IF END IF END IF GOTO loopTop There. This pseudo-code should set someone in the right direction, and is generic enough so you can code it in C, Python, BASIC, or whatever, upload the compiled code to the micro or SBC, and test it all out (before Halloween, of course!) 😊

[@CommanderZx2]

Ah thanks for this, I've been wanting to make something just like this. Been wanting to set up a string of LEDs, but only wanted them to come on when people were there.

[@acmefixer1]

LEDs are so much fun to play with when there's a sensor to turn them off when no one's around. I wish that everyone would forget about using the BC547 and 2N3904 for high currents. Instead used the BC337-25 or the PN2222A, which can handle a half amp. Also it's a good idea to arrange the pins in a triangle in the PCB because you may want to use a BD135 in the TO-126 package which has the collector in the center. Thanks so much for the excellent project video. LEDs are fun!

[@onecircuit-as]

Just made something very similar with a PIR and a Hall Effect sensor together, driving an LED strip via transistor. Nice design Clive! Take care. 👍😀

[@whitehoose]

I really like this circuit - I've used it from it's first appearance I stood on one leg with a magnifying glass and shamelessly copied the layout. Over time I've condensed board and practically halved the size by mounting resistors upright etc, I replaced the 2 balast resistors with a pot so it's adjustable. I like to keep it flexible so use the molex 3 way sockets for mounting the switching Tranny (2n22222 / Mosfet and the same connector pin as BC for PIR / Radar and use whatever is appropriate for connecting power and outputs I don't use usb bricks, mostly 18650 in a holder with a charge/protect chip attached. I tend to use JST connectors a lot and and switched power supplies wherever I can. Then connect whatever connector is needed - I often use a buck converter to get the voltage I need from whatever I have available - keeps all my stuff standard and modular by my standard selection of PSUs and anything fits everything by plugging in the appropriate end - it's still clive's in spirit. I like the radar because it stands up to the elements better and you can pot it - but the PIR is more directional and selective because it doesn't see through walls. Horses for courses.

[@morik3188]

My absolute favorite ham-fisted big bear on all of KZbin. Keep up the good work!

[@dreadroberts7523]

Really love the doppler radar motion sensors but... I used 5 of them around the house. After a few days half my face was numb, turned them off and a few weeks later the numb went away. Did this cycle a few times with same results. Somehow they react to me adversely. Incredible, given how very low RF these things put out. Now they are only Operational while im not home.

[@Moist_yet_Crispy]

I love the fact that you talk your way through building, instant SUB for me! I love the way you explain things and looking forward to all that you do! Thank you!!! I'm working on learning electronics and this is extremely helpful. /\

[@rayceeya8659]

I like the idea of using something like this to illuminate drawers or cupboards when you open them.

[@dogwalker666]

They exist and run of 1/3 aaa batteries

[@sofa-lofa4241]

I got a 2 pack of cupboard lights from Pound land, simple microswitch type, so no standby current loss, I bypassed the battery compartment and run them off a USB powerbank

[@ElektronikLabor]

I love the USB connector; immediately ordered a bunch of them 👍

[@avejst]

Great design 👍 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

[@DigitalIP]

Ive been using a USB mini PIR with LED strips and a normal USB LED exactly for this for a while now. Got one in the living room so a light wont have to be turned on when coming into the house or going through the living room at night, and also one in the downstairs bathroom, while the upstairs bathroom is using a normal motion sensor light that i modified to use 18650's and a TP4056 instead of 4 AAA's. They definitely come in handy, especially during power outages.

[@sharonpaige9592]

Do you have a video of that

[@DigitalIP]

@@sharonpaige9592 I do not, but if you need any information i'll provide it. You can find USB Mini PIR sensors for cheap on Amazon and Ebay though, anything else i mentioned would require minor soldering skills.

[@gwood19841]

This is an excellent coincidence. It's exactly what I'm looking for at the moment

[@Ckcdillpickle]

Do I love this channel, I hope to build a CAN Bus one of these days, Sadly theres not much public information on such topic

[@pepethefrog7193]

I did try exactly that, attach some bright LED's to the radar sensor and i failed. After seeing this video i tried again and success! Thanks to Bicclive's motivational power! I did also attach the LDR (needs additional ldr resistor on backside) so it doesent work during sunlight and now plan on putting it on my TP4056 module solar 18650 cell charger.

[@mrdovie47]

I used a sound activated switch (APH-SK370) to turn on outside lights at night the unit is near my car but too far from my front door. I pondered running a speaker to the unit from the front door or even a cord with a bell so I could turn on the lights from my front door. Then today it hit me. I'll just lock my car doors from my remote which will toot the horn & light the lights. Rated for 220 VAC the APH-SK370 also works at 120VAC which I have here.

[@grdutton]

I recently saw a guy using a big chunk of Blu-Tack to hold a board while soldering. Seems like a good idea!

[@bigclivedotcom]

Sounds like Julian Illet.

[@LONGA0813]

Those PIR are handy. I was thinking of a project including glow in the dark walking path and some UV emitting diode.

[@q12x]

very nice project

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Nice design

[@mcomiskey7]

This looks great.

[@Jon6429]

It's a handy circuit and been using a similar one for while now to switch the under-cupboard lights in the kitchen at night. That may sound trivial to some but for us night owls who live by the glow of a PC screen it's a lifesaver lol

[@stridermt2k]

PIR modules ordered!

[@tonybastin5095]

would love one of these

[@aspectcarl]

Neat! I will follow up with this👍

[@meowmeow871]

I get flashbacks to my hand full of blisters when you solder like that

[@ajnunya6649]

I thought he was doing it right... I've been soldering like that for 60 years. If you let a little heat bother you then it's time to give up soldering :P

[@Kudos1799]

I had an ANTEX standing upright which I thought was switched off as I went to grab it in my fist as I tidied up, and I wondered why it slipped through my palm to the floor. Caused nasty burn but no scar.

[@MARKE911]

Those would be perfect to install on tool bins on my work truck. When I opened the door they would turn on and when I walked by them the same thing. Omg I 6 of these and figure out how to make them operate off 12 volt+ vehicle power. This are genius.

[@DjResR]

You can use 78S05 voltage regulator to turn 12V into 5V._

[@randomsteve4288]

Well... The light level from such an LED string may be a bit low for illuminating a work area or cluttered tool box in a work truck. You should first focus on the needed illumination, then tweak that circuit to fit. You could easily modify the circuit to run on 12V; all chinese radar detectors I have seen so far come with an inbuild 3.3V regulator. So voltage preregulation to the detector module can be reduced to a resistor and capacitor; the resistor will take a proper amount of voltage off and distribute power dissipation away from the regulator on the module, and with capacitor(s) to ground at the input of the module it will act as low pass to smooth and shunt nasty voltage spikes from the car supply. Replacing the BC548 with BC337-40 and a freewheeling diode you would then be able to drive an automotive relais from the detector. Maybe Clive can do a redesign to that regard.

[@randomsteve4288]

@@DjResR If you really want to go that route and use this design as is, I would opt to repurpose a proper USB car charger as a supply. The proper ones use step down switchmode regulators to increase efficiency and have proper input filterung to shunt nasty voltage spikes that are riding on any car supply. But any linear regulator like 7805 at 12V will be very ineffective and it may react nasty in a car environment unless you do proper preconditioning/filtering of the input voltage with L C and TVS.

[@deslomeslager]

That PIR module will run on 4 Volts as well. No need to boost to 5Volt. Now you can use a (protected) Li-Ion battery (or several in parallel). I had the same issue with powerbanks switching off all the time.

[@PanamonC]

I've lurked long enough. "I SHALL" subscribe.👍

[@Electronzap]

Nice project :) I wish sensor modules came with instructions on how to DIY use them. I always have to do google searched to see what other people came up with.

[@martinfairweather700]

So do most other people when no instructions are given. Just remember, they are only switches.

[@paulb7964]

I studied electronics at college. I'd love to do something like this.

[@Basement-Science]

11:20 the connector is called "KF2510" or specifically "KF2510-2P" for the 2-pin version.

[@gordonlawrence1448]

For some reason the series type for that connector never sticks in my head. They are so much cheaper than the Molex though.

[@recurveninja]

It's also called a Molex KK 254. I've seen the black connectors referred to as female berg headers, but I don't know what company made them originally. Probably Amphenol if I had to guess, since they're frequently used with Mini-PV (colloquially Dupont) connectors.

[@gordonlawrence1448]

@@recurveninja Unfortunately the Molex KK range do not fit them perfectly. I know this from bitter experience.

[@Mister_Brown]

@@recurveninja the kf2510 will fit on a kk just fine but the kk won't necessarily. the kf2510 is what you tend to see on pc motherboards as fan connectors

[@Basement-Science]

I made something similar some time ago, except with a relay that could switch mains voltage, also powered by USB and potted in resin in a small plastic case. The radar module I used cant be adjusted though, unfortunately.

[@ColinMcCormack]

Neat! If you had a multipin connector for the module, with different polarity, you could solder the connector on the back, reverse the doppler module's orientation, and have a smaller footprint, with the module overlapping your board rather than sitting proud of it.

[@ColinMcCormack]

I see this has been dealt with, below.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Very simple circuit nice work Clive @BigCliveDotCom

[@CorradoMella]

If you put the black connector at the back of the PCB, thus inverting the pinout direction, you can sandwich the two modules in less space. To get the connector pins soldered from the components side would need the PCB to be double sided, increasing costs but making the lot far smaller. Choices.

[@jaylittleton1]

I seem to remember a New Wave band named Ambient Foliage Movement in early 70's.

[@UpLateGeek]

I'll have to go back and find your video on the PIR modules. I built an arduino LED panel temperature display, but blew up the arduino plugging the external 5V into the wrong pin. I had planned on adding a PIR module and light sensor to dim the display based on ambient light level, and shut it off when there's no movement at night. It'd also be good to find out if there's any "dumb" power banks on eBay that you can just slot 18650 cells into, or if there's an easy way to modify them to detect the lower power draw of an arduino in sleep mode waiting for a trigger from the PIR module.

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

The advantage of the PIR trigger is that it can be set to only operate at night, which is a power saver if a security light is being operated. The Doppler trigger is useful for audio warnings: I linked one to a digital playback circuit to play a 10 second voice recording, warning intruders that they are on CCTV.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The doppler module also has the provision for adding an LDR for dusk sensing.

[@nickye2864]

could you do a video on how you design pcbs? like the software you use with the basic functions, and some additional useful tips to keep in mind when designing a circuit. at the moment i use loose wires for everything i build

[@blockbertus]

Check out EEVBlog here on the tube. That Aussi bloke did quite a few videos about that sort of thing already. Just recently he analysed a PCB and explained stuff to watch out for.

[@Sayid112]

DELTACO PB-1066 20000mAh stays on with arduino. It's super effective

[@MrDbrennen]

Blob of Blu Tack all the way Clive

[@DavidMsg]

Just built something similar to power a 'dancing candle', but used the am312, which only goes on for 2 seconds (smaller size and lower power- can run on a 3v7) - used an attiny mc to add a longer delay. Any way to have the am312 directly to increase the turn off time?

[@marshall100w6]

Thank you for the video. One question. What’s the purpose of the 1M Ohms resistor? Could have the circuit the same functionality without this resistor? Thank you very much 😃.

[@kennmossman8701]

Some MosFets have a high RDS(on) which will dim the LEDs

[@mfx1]

Worth mentioning some small PIR modules are open collector output and some are TTL output.

[@laiquocbao2565]

You can 3D print a spring vise to hold tiny board like that. Printed in 1 piece, plug and play, lol.

[@thelwq]

The doppler one has a github page full of useful data. For instance - just a different resistor can change module’s sensitivity and range...

[@rompdude]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you could connect the coupler connector to the underside to allow the 2 boards to stack better.

[@FIXDIY]

Good

[@kennmossman8701]

The Vce(sat) [of the BJTs] will 'subtract' from the supply voltage and can dim the LEDs

[@randomsteve4288]

Yes. And on a 5V supply a 20 ohm series resistor into a string of LED with worest case 2.5V forward voltage drop makes for a 125mA Collector current. The 1K base resistor provides 4.4mA base current at best if the Microcontroller puts out 5V. If it is only 3V3 because of an on board regulator , you are down to 2.7mA base current. The datasheet of BC546 series specifies VCE at IC 100mA with IB 3-4mA to be 0.4-0.6V (that is the voltage loss you mention) One should consider to depart from the BC548 and go for BC337-40 as "universal" NPN, because datasheet of Bc337 specifies VCE loss below 0.1V for IC 100mA at IB 3mA...

[@EasyOne]

nice

[@ButterBallTheOpossum]

I work for my local municipality and we replaced one of those radar units that detects bicycle and pedestrian traffic at the crosswalks. I wanted to send you the old but still working unit but wasn't able to find an address to send it to.

[@carlswenson5403]

you need three hands ... may I suggest something along the lines of a fly tying vise?

[@avada0]

@bigclivedotcom I wonder how would you some buzzer alarm on fridge/freezer doors. They remain open (pushed open by crammed stuff) too often. Surprisingly there aren't any pre made solutions on ebay/aliexpress. And it seems convoluted (and expensive) to combine some sort of door-switch, with a buzzer and a timer, and having all battery powered.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It would have to be external. -18C is harsh to batteries.

[@PiratCarribean]

Maybe they also have that 2 pin micro usb connector at LCSC? Could all have shipped in 1 order then with the pcbs from JLCPCB.

[@angusmclean4783]

Looks good for re purposing to be the control to turn off a UV-C lamp when anyone walks into the room. Can I have one to try?

[@Basement-Science]

You would want to invert the signal (again) for that. If you use a relay, an NC contact would do it. In that case you also need a diode across the coil though.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Jlcpcb is just an amazing place to get custom pcbs

[@KARLLARK100]

good day clive where can I get the files to order from jlcpcb would love to make this.thanks and as usual great vid.

[@databanks]

The kangaroos would spend half the night playing games if I had one of these in the yard. They're already quite fond of the solar sensor lights by the doors

[@jamest.5001]

Kool bean's, I just ordered a few of these detectors, I think I will order a few of the pir also, is there any interference, when using multiple sensors? I'm thinking I'll make a perimeter alarm. And something as simple as turn on lights when I enter a room, being I have 12v led lighting, great timing, great video!

[@louisesearby7522]

If I wanted to add a 6v solar panel and batteries instead of usb where would be best to connect please ?

[@glasseffect]

Radar modules have pads for ceramic capacitor for time delay.

[@davidpring9108]

@bigclivedotcom I have a Poundland item that has failed on me today, would you like it for an autopsy?

[@danielm2142]

Those pin headers are called Dupont connectors, the more ya know. On another note, the Ni-MH cell in my solar sun jar died a while back, so instead of replacing it I'm going to change out the slow-fade RGB LED with a string of WS2812B LEDS controlled by an ATTiny85, powered using an 18650 cell (or two protected cells in parallel if there's room) connected to a solar li-ion charging/boost module (considering the size of the solar cell it'll probably only be able to trickle charge the batter(y/ies) but eh), finally I'm thinking of using a TEMT6000 for controlling the trigger threshold in software... Where was I going with this?... Oh yeah! Now I'm wondering if I should add a doppler unit... Then again I've probably already exceeded reasonable quiescent current draw with the stuff that's already going in it... I guess we'll see.

[@blckcloud15253]

Instead of LED's could it trip a low voltage Relay? I would like to use that sort of thing for an intruder alarm that would drive a 12 volt Horn or trip a low voltage light.

[@martinfairweather700]

Of course you can.

[@Stringandsealingwax]

They look very handy. Will you be selling them on your site? (I'm not lucky in lotteries!)

[@Francois_Dupont]

bump!

[@ElTwOJaY]

Lol neither was I, till I won a 6th gen Ipad! 😂 luck is a weird thing

[@bren106]

I'd have a couple of kits if they were on the website as well.

[@crazygeorgelincoln]

Interested. I've been really slack in making a movement sensing infrared floodlight for the car.

[@deejay44]

I also would be interested.

[@DrRChandra]

I agree about the heat. When I was young, the books I was reading that were teaching me soldering said to clip a small heatsink onto semiconductor leads so as to minimize the chance of damage. That's why when I see vids today of no clips, I think, did I waste all that time years ago putting on clips when I had nothing to worry about?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The first electronic components could be damaged very easily. Now they pretty much solder them by baking them in an oven.

[@JerryEricsson]

Perhaps it is a bit of dyslexic on my part but I always have a problem converting from the 547 to the 3904. To solve this, I found that here in the USA you can easily order the BC547 off Ebay for about the same price as the 3904, so I simply ordered in 100 bc547's since I usually try all of Big Clive's little projects that are simple enough for my poor old aching brain.

[@fish9468]

Have you seen those led floodlights on screwfix? They are really good for growing *tomatoes* and it was only £25 for a 50w

[@UberAlphaSirus]

probably good for other related plants such as potatoes and deadly nightshade. Not much profit in it. How much does a crop from one tomatoe plant cost in electrickley on average?

[@RFC-3514]

Maybe that one is more sensitive, but in my experience those "doppler" motion detectors can't really see through (brick / concrete) walls, or even thick-ish safety glass (ex., shop windows). They work fine through wooden tables, doors, and probably also plasterboard walls, but stone / glass / ceramic thicker than a centimetre or two seems to block their view, or at least greatly reduce their range.

[@Grid56]

I was thinking of using this to light the staircase at night but I dont know what the differences would be between leds in parallel and leds in series. Could you sometime show a vid of how they wojld be set up. ALXO is it possible to separate the dusk sensor from the motion sensor as sensing at the staircase is not accurate enough, and id like go put it near a window.

[@jhsevs]

3:10 is the pinout for transistors usually/always the same? Or do some of them come with c, b, e on different pins?

[@bigclivedotcom]

They are all different.

[@whitehoose]

For the radar module you can mod 3 sets of values on the plane side of the board plus add a pot to the component side to change sensitivity and timing Below is the info - its just my notes, not very well explained (sorry!) but the info is there and it does work -C-TM Regulate the repeat trigger time. The default (unpopulated) time is 2s. (10nf on main cct board) add 100nf to pad = 33 seconds A SMD capacitor to extend the repeat trigger time. Pin 3 of the IC emits a frequency (f), and the tigger time in seconds is given by (1/f) * 32678 -R-GN The default detection range is 7m, adding a 1M resistor reduces it to 5m -R-CDS the VCC is in parallel connection with CDS(RCWL-9196 pin 9) through R-CDS. Connect the LDR at the R-CDS to turn off the detecting function at night. (?? TODO: make sense of this) Also The antenna resistor (R9) its resistance 220 Ohm, See kzbin.info/www/bejne/j32wnYWercyHjbM You should use trimmer resistor with variable resistance from 0 to 200 Ohm for your experiments. There is a relation between this resistance and sensor range. Less the resistance less sensitive is the sensor. So my guess will be that resistance should be something about 80 Ohm according to this guy experiments #22 (comment)

[@pear7777]

Looks fun, the connector could be soldered to the back, so the boards could be not in an s shape, but in a C shape

[@bigclivedotcom]

It could, but you have to consider the active area of the doppler detector.

[@bluephreakr]

@@bigclivedotcom I am actually surprised you didn't find some way to flip the traces and stack the boards on top of each other in a way which would allow for a small 3D-printed container to hold the electronics.

[@cedricpod]

do you know how to modify the PIR lens to be more directional ( have a more acute detection angle ) ?

[@erlendse]

Just blank off sectors? Shouldn't be too tricky to just glue some foil tape on it.

[@dannyboi9090]

@@erlendse you dont even need foil tape, black electrical tape works fine.. I do it all the time to block out trees that move in the wind on floods all the time!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I agree Clive the name brand power banks always timeout i have a few anker 20000 mah battery packs and they timeout and go dormant if there being used at to low of voltage which is normal very small amount less then 5 volts its very annoying @BigClivedotCom

[@Kudos1799]

Might try ways of integrating this into cheap digital photo frames, to mimic big frames where already fitted.

[@petersage5157]

I've often wondered why BC series transistors are packaged with the emitter and collector back-to-front compared to the 2N series transistors. Does this reflect the fact that you British Commonwealth types drive on the wrong side of the road?

[@denislostinlondon199]

Distance distorts!

[@David_11111]

yay

[@martinsowle6739]

Hi Clive I've tried to order some of your pcbs via jlbpcb but on three of them the size box are blank would you be so kind and give us the size please 🙏. Thanks

[@twocvbloke]

Idea for an LED light modification; the Poundland £2 garden stab-in-the-ground solar lights fitted with these doppler sensors, so they only come on when someone is near... :D (though how that'd work with the existing solar power setup, I haven't a clue!!!)

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

It would be nice of you to link product sources for the PIR and doppler detector modules and other sourced products used in your various projects.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Search for arduino pir module or radar module on eBay.

[@sailingluana3037]

Can you put a intermittent timer on the Doppler sensor to lower it's draw? I would love to add this to my boat. Or would it sense the water moving too?

[@sparkequinox]

Probably best to use PIR in that case. The doupler in theory would detect in 3d and the water could be an issue.

[@sailingluana3037]

@@sparkequinox dopler should be able to be blocked with a partial Faraday screen to stop the wave from areas you don't want it. But it could be place inside the hull thus a clean mounting. I may have to get one and play with it.

[@sofa-lofa4241]

@@sailingluana3037 I've tried to shield the Doppler type and it is tricky, probably better off with P. I. R as they are much less prone to false triggering and the quiescent current is very low, around 60 micro-amps versus 2 milli-amps for the Doppler type

[@sailingluana3037]

@@sofa-lofa4241 I should have looked up the draw. On a large batter bank, that is nothing. Interesting it was difficult to shield. Did you try copper mesh and physically attaching to the container and not just floating behind the sensor?

[@sofa-lofa4241]

@@sailingluana3037 if you're running it off the boats main battery bank then the current draw shouldn't be any issue for you, I didn't have any copper gauze type material to play with, I used aluminium foil folded to 4 layers, probably not the best! I did find a bit of useful info when searching online which may help you, apparently there is a minimum distance between the sensor and any shielding, for my sensor it was around 40mm, I think its probably dependant on frequency but I wouldn't pretend to understand the dark arts of microwave antenna design... I'll leave that to someone with slightly more braincells

[@ernieh5664]

Hi Clive can u tell me were to get the USB Pir/Radar modules from please. Thanks. Ernie.

[@covishen]

How do I get on the lottery list or is it automatic?

[@17hmr243]

could some one help with ebay search terms for beginner kits like this iv made the line follower- clock ,

[@didevrythngrghtndthyindictedme]

Really enjoy these videos. Always been cruious what temperature you run your soldering iron at? It seems you always use the same tip as well.

[@bigclivedotcom]

About 350C. I have a preferred tip which is a good compromise between high thermal mass and detail.

[@dipendraraikut]

Please add links where I can get parts also.That would be really helpful...

[@johnturner8286]

For the Doppler sensor just search eBay for "RCWL-0516". For the PIR sensor try "HC-SR501". For a wider gamut of similar parts try "human body sensor". Lately they are over a dollar each in bulk. The time to stock your parts box was last year, I'm afraid....

[@scratchdog2216]

Real RADAR. Interesting. Anybody know what the average operating frequency is on one of those units? Just curious. Thanx.

[@sofa-lofa4241]

I've seen them range from 1.2GHz to 10.52GHz, hope this helps

[@Anvilshock]

Clive, given the CdS cells in various resistance ranges (0.2-10M dark, 2-140K at 10 lux), how would you recommend going about selecting from them, please?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Trial and error. Most will work anyway.

[@Anvilshock]

@@bigclivedotcom Thanks. I'm certain they work. What I meant was less that 2K-10M is their actual spread, more that they already come in distinct range series, named from 5506 to 5549, and given those series, might as well order the right one. I was just wondering what considerations might make me go for the lower over the higher series or vice versa.

[@amorphuc]

I love this! Especially with the radar detector. I was wondering if you could put a capacitor across the output in order to ramp up the lights as they're turning on and ramp down the brightness when they switch off? That could be kind of cool and Blade Runner esque.

[@Chrisamic]

It would probably be more efficient to put an R/C network on the base, to have the transistor ramp up and down. Same idea, just implemented differently. It sounds like a fun addition to the circuit to play with.

[@bigclivedotcom]

If you used a small MOSFET you could possible add a capacitor between the gate and circuit negative.

[@amorphuc]

@@Chrisamic Thanks.

[@amorphuc]

@@bigclivedotcom Neat. That will be fun to play with. Thank you.