Building an AQARA Smart Home (Part 2 - PRODUCTS)

[@colinnewman2000]

Hey Mark, love Aqara, by far the best sensors as far as I am concerned. I have a leak detector in the shower tray which turns on the extractor fan when the shower it turned on. Works a treat, much better than the humidity sensor solution I previously had, which was far too slow to react.

[@MarkWattTech]

That’s a great use case. I have 2 fans that Are currently linked to the light switches. But I want to separate them for individual control. I may do what you’ve done :D

[@dancoon7653]

Just ordered some of the push buttons for our bedside tables to turn the lights on and off without telling at Alexa at 2 and waking each other up. We already have two of the temperature sensors which I use with some smart plugs on oil filled rads to make some generic thermostats in home assistant that keep our house just right (we don't have gas so this is a god send). I've also got an Aqara cube in my game room which controls a bunch of scenes depending on which side is flipped, dims everything by rotating it and turns the lights on and off by chucking it in the air, yes is a bit of a gimmick but quite cool to show off to people.

[@streetwiztech5505]

Good job on part 2.. looking forward to part 3..

[@MartinHiggs84]

Looking forward to part 3 Mark

[@MarkWattTech]

Hopefully in the next couple of weeks 😄

[@MartinHiggs84]

@@MarkWattTech I'll monitor my subscriptions 😃

[@MartinHiggs84]

I use Zigbee2MQTT and H1 light switch no neutral. Am I looking wrong or can you not do a double click action?

[@frankvet1]

Love the work... wondering how you get a/the dashboard... a separate program, Aqara web app, ? Thank you. (just sent back the old motions for the P1.. knew something was up when everything went on sale for 15% off!

[@Shellyfi]

Does battery powered H1 wall switch support state information with led indicator? Or are those just there to harmonize layout with wired ones? If those leds are working, is it possible to control those independently

[@oakfig]

If I use the M2 hub, I don't see any smart bulbs that are compatible in the US. Is there a work around for some other bulbs? I really didn't want to mess with changing out the switches.

[@oldmanvlogs-UK-PHP]

for 2-way lighting use Aqara Wireless Remote Switch H1, disconnect the strappers (3-core cable that links the 2 excisting switches) connect mains power Aqara Smart Wall Switch H1, just like a normal switch Live- Switch line and Neutral or non-neutral

[@GermanCarguy]

So I guess there was never a part three of this series? At least I don't see where the in part one mentioned "how to set up the Aqara hub with HA" is. Disappointing.

[@markloughtonUK]

Part 3 failure :(

[@MarkWattTech]

Coming soon… 😆

[@dab42bridges80]

Has Aqara fixed the connection issues with the TVOC sensor? Seem tp be a lot of complaints about this.

[@sanderderuiter9240]

Hey Mark! Great video's, you helped me out a few times already! Only one tip, use an insulated screwdriver next time you change the lightswitches and explain that you cut off the mains electricity ;) Keep up the good work!

[@MarkWattTech]

Happy to have helped :) I tend to try and avoid giving any advice on unsafe things and practices. I did mention it in the first video. But make sure that power is off! 😂

[@supalognon]

Worth mentioning that the speaker of Aqara hubs (M2 etc.) are never exposed in Home Assistant in any way (HomeKit or Matter). It is rarely said.

[@adibbins]

Mark, you should consider placing a leak sensor under a freezer, if your freezer;s electricity were to go off, and the freezer defrosted, it'll cause a leak, and could be very expensive in lost food and water damage.

[@MarkWattTech]

Great suggestion thanks Andrew :)

[@dankarau2307]

@@MarkWattTech Using a temp sensor you could detect an issue long before defrosting has occurred and food is spoiled! Same for your fridge.

[@alexsanseau3512]

Hi Mark, great video again! I think to understand you are using the light switch in decoupled mode (controlling your lights from HA) and coupled mode for when/if your zigbee network is down. How does it actually switch from one mode to another when the zigbee network is down? Can the switch detect automatically? Thanks.

[@Edelgul1717]

Hello. The video is usefull, but the way how the text is read is rather troublesome - now it's narrated in a way, how an old professor is reading his lectures - i just fall asleep. I guess something could be considered in terms of the vocal presentation in the future.

[@amrishganatra2303]

HI Mark - thank you for a great video. I love these switches however I’m having an issue seeing the battery version of the two-gang wireless switch. I’m using Zigbee2Mqtt and can’t see all the entities show up in HA. I want to be able to control the single and double tap actions for both the left and right switch from HA… .however these are not available in HA. I also dont see this appear as a switch in HA. Did you manage to get this to work without any issue? If so, what was your secret?

[@amrishganatra2303]

Hi Mark - any thoughts on this?

[@weiertee3332]

Hey, interesting series. Will it be continued soon? Thinking about setting up smart heating with window sensors with Aqara / home assistant. I’m new to the subject. Good idea?

[@MarkWattTech]

Heya :) I've had part 3 planned for so long now. I just haven't found time to record it. Hopefully it will be out soon :)

[@roymorrison1075]

Hey Mark, as silly as it sounds, but if you use the 3m sticky to attach the temp sensor for example to a wall, you can just twist off the top from the base, with out the need for a coin to remove the base plate. But agree they could of done this better.

[@MarkWattTech]

Heya Roy. Yeah that tends to be what I do with the buttons. I’ve nit yet had to change any batteries in my new setup so that’s one to worry about down the line :P

[@David-bl1bt]

Yes, a poor, lack of thought design! It would be better if they had a corresponding hard plastic 'key's that fitted snug into the coin slot a with a large wing to grasp to turn it to remove and refer the battery compartment.

[@anton9038]

Hello. One question, the aqara switch will work with 110v? Thanks

[@AlexBoltonKing]

I miss understood... thought the light switches weren't routers! Being routers changes everything! :D.. .got first one coming on Monday :D

[@MarkWattTech]

They sure are! 😄. Just to be aware though, only Neutral versions act as routers. The no neutral ones don’t.

[@cyrusho2797]

Hi Mark. Quite impressive on your stairs lighting. Are you going do tutorials on that?

[@MarkWattTech]

I actually meant to do a video on it a while back 🤪. But yes more than likely I will

[@master3m3k]

Would love to see that one as well

[@MatTeague]

Would love a tutorial on the stair lights as I’m moving home and want to set this up in my new house.

[@LeiChat]

+1 on the two way switch tutorial please

[@TheYangaz]

Hey Mark, great video! Followed it step by step. Question though, how do you add the Aqara Roller shade driver E1 via deCONZ? i could'nt find a roller blind option.

[@MarkWattTech]

Unfortunately I haven’t used deConz for a few years now. I generally only tend to test ZHA and Zigbee2Mqtt so I can’t say for sure if it is working as expected.

[@ianpierregomes8373]

Each button can control only 1 light? That's a bummer

[@My-noname]

Just to be clear. H1 no neutral is an EndDevice and not a router.

[@Hristo.Dimitrov]

Hi Mark, Am I able to use Aqara T1 no neutral in two-way switch diagram. I have two switches which controll one bulb, but I'm not sure how to wire T1 to the switches. The first switch is with Load wire and two comunication wires. The comunication wires are goint go the secong switch and from the second switch is going a third wire to the load(led light). Can you tell me how to wire T1 switch so I can sontinue using the external switches.

[@krdesigns]

my TVAC from time to time suddently get NAN info or get disconnected until I change the TVAC view and it will connected back to ZHA. Any solutions for this problem?

[@cmdbill]

Has anyone ran into connection issues with the TVOC sensor? Mine will disconnect from my Sonoff ZB 3.0 dongle constantly( every 2 to 3 days). Seems to be when it tries routing with any other way but directly it will just quit sending data. Seems to be a long standing issue with this sensor.

[@dankarau2307]

Do you know if the new Motion Sensor is IP65 sealed? Can it be used outside?

[@MarkWattTech]

Officially it’s not. However I have used one of these in a 3D printed enclosure and used it outside and it has worked fine. Even in the cold weather.

[@MustangBoss1973]

Hi Mark, I wasn't aware of the 3 click mode is this on all revisions of the buttons?

[@shayb9424]

Hi great vid. Can I ask which W led light strip you used on the stairs? Thanks

[@wwolfram33]

Great Video Mark. Thanks for sharing how you are using the items. I have noticed the P1 motion sensor is not always speedy, at times it take 1/2 second to trigger. If it was consistently a 200ms response time, it would be excellent.

[@nickbailey202]

Great video, thank you. Am I the only one who thinks the mushy and imprecise paddles feel really cheap? I just had a box of a car devices delivered last week, but I'm not sure I want to install because the switches feel terrible to me.

[@MarkWattTech]

As in the Aqara switch padddles? I’ve grown to quite like them :D

[@Bruno-vz8vk]

Thanks for your vidéo, I've heard that aqara sensors are pretty bad to find a new rebound on zigbee if it losts it's original one. Did you experiences that?

[@MarkWattTech]

Heya. I haven’t found the connectivity bad but the devices are “sticky” and often wont roam between routers. This isn’t a big issue as the products are designed to be static and if you have a lot of powered devices (e.g switches) then it won’t ever be a problem. In my personal settings I don’t ever have dropouts or disconnects and have generally had a good experience with the devices.

[@JBR.1974]

ive discovered a good way to remove the back of the aqare sensors...using the bottom of my Ikea diskh brush suction mount....works first time every time...or if the base is attached toa surface, you can just twist if on that

[@MarkWattTech]

Yeah I do the little twist to change the batteries. In the old house I had a disaster where a twist led to a chunk of plaster coming off 😂

[@oddbob6675]

Nice video, very informative. I find the Aqara range a bit pricey, +-£30 for the switches.

[@MarkWattTech]

They are but I definitely think you get the premium feel. They feel well made and not cheap and tacky. But yes very expensive to kit out a whole house

[@JamesMossR33]

Loving the Aqara sensors and I have a ton of them around my home now, mostly window/door sensors. I removed the reed switch from one of them and connected it to a relay in the dryer so HA alerts me when the dryer finishes. Also connected a water sensor to a rain sensor pcb in a 3D printed case and stuck it on the roof, so i get an instant alert if it starts raining and any roof windows are open (it does suffer from false positives from dew sometimes, so not perfect. Actually hadn't thought of contacts in a gutter, but that wouldn't give me an instant alert). Made a christmas tree low water level sensor with a float sensor and ESP8266/MQTT, which I'll convert to use a water sensor so no power required. Great video as always Mark!

[@MarkWattTech]

Thanks James! I'd be interested in checking out your roof rain sensor if you have any images? :D (Maybe post in the MWT FB or Discord as KZbin will block links in comments)

[@XellosMetallium]

how do you connect aqara to ha?

[@MarkWattTech]

There are a few options. I mentioned these in part one. The main methods are directly via Zigbee, using Homekit or with the Aqara integration (when it releases)

[@NicBox]

Hi Mark, I have replaced some of my light switches with the H1's (single and double rockers) and I'm curious about the power monitoring comment, how can this be enabled as I am unable to add these as energy consumption devices. Many thanks.

[@NicBox]

I suppose you could manually add as 'Use an entity with current price' which would give you a best guess cost - ignore that I have no idea what I'm talking about!

[@MarkWattTech]

Yes so you can feed them in as energy devices and track them like that (same as other energy devices).

[@leosedf]

Where the hell did you get a P1 motion? I was looking to get one for a teardown. It's not available anywhere.

[@MarkWattTech]

There’s a link in the description (not sure if there still available) but there selling on Amazon UK for £30 👍🏻

[@leosedf]

@@MarkWattTech Ah, they have it in stock now finally.

[@Sossingro]

Hi, I'm English but in China and we're probably going to go with Aqara including the hub then migrate to HASS later down the line once we get the new house more integrated How would you implement the dial switch for dimming as well as the screen panel? The screen panel is only a little bit more expensive than a triple switch and dial.

[@MarkWattTech]

Heya :) Im not sure about the screen panel as it’s not available in the UK. I think the dimming switch does work though.

[@Sossingro]

@@MarkWattTech Yeah I think that's the case I've seen some videos on people using them with HASS but not as a whole house upgrade.

[@AngloYorkshire]

For the pull switch just tie it up and use a battery switch. Make sure that the lights are on when you tie the switch string up. That's what I did for my bathroom.

[@MarkWattTech]

I did do that for the second pully which is in the boiler cupboard. It felt cheaty though:P

[@mrchappell100]

I put a zonoff zbmini-l up into my bathroom pull cord and it let's me use the bathroom light as normal while still keeping control with the light through home assistant and motion automations. I find turning off zigbee bulbs to be better than leaving the bulb live as they instantly connect back to the network unlike WiFi bulbs... I do this with all my lights...

[@bhushangadiya]

What is the LED strip and the controller you are using?

[@MarkWattTech]

Im using some WS2812bs and on the stair one an esp32 which I’ve now swapped for a preflashed Athom Wled controller

[@frankraym]

Where is part 3

[@MarkWattTech]

Recorded and waiting to release 👍🏻

[@ingdavidino]

Hey Mark, thanks for your video. Which brand of switch do you suggest ? I have sonoff and Shelly and I do find them not really reliable. Thanks for your help

[@MarkWattTech]

Hey David. For wall switches the Aqara ones are currently my favourite. Great for automations, energy monitoring and also have a nice design. If I find something better I will be sure to share :) What kind are you after? And is Zigbee or WiFi your preference? Also - it’s Mark 😂

[@ingdavidino]

@@MarkWattTech shelly 2.5, sonoff r3, mini ( all Wi-Fi ) but most of the time they are unreachable /offline. Will aquara work with the sonoff usb zigbee 3.0 receiver ? I’m relocating to a new house and I’d like to bet on the right one ( as I’ll buy ~15-20 of them )

[@ingdavidino]

Sorry on the name, typo 😂

[@MarkWattTech]

@@ingdavidino hey David. Thats the exact setup I use and have no issues :) If your going with zigbee wall switches I would highly recommend setting them up first to build up your mesh as the aqara switches act as routers. Then adding end device like sensors etc. Also just to note, only neutral switches act as routers. Non neutral versions don’t. Haha no worries. You wouldn’t believe the amount of times I get called Matt 😂

[@ingdavidino]

@@MarkWattTech thanks Mark. I’ll try that. Where did you buy all of them ? As it seems quite good investment to cover the full home. ( Amazon ?) It’s actually the merge of your name and surname [Ma]rk + Wa[tt] 😝 So not completely unrelated.

[@MatTeague]

Great video as always! You’ve converted me to Aqara devices. Gonna go nuts lol 😂

[@MarkWattTech]

Sorry 😂

[@MatTeague]

@@MarkWattTech Finally getting my Aqara kit, now that I’ve moved home 😃! The wall switches do the no neutral wire switches also act as a router or is it just the neutral wire ones? Got into a debate with an election where he said it most only be the neutral versions that act as routers and I said no. But now I’m thinking was I right haha.

[@David-bl1bt]

I am wondering the same. I'm guessing that the router requires constant power so requires the neutral.

[@MatTeague]

@@David-bl1bt I ended up contacting Aqara directly and they confirmed that only the neutral wire versions act as Zigbee routers. So I owe my electrician an apology. I’ve now converted all my light switches to the Aqara Neutral thanks to my electrician adding neutral wires, and I’m really happy with them. The switches have definitely made my Zigbee network more stable

[@ronm6585]

Thanks Mark.

[@MarkWattTech]

Pleasure as always Ron 😁

[@FreshfrogmarketingUk]

My understanding is the motion sensor only transmits lux level when motion is detected, so not usable for turning on lights in a low motion area.

[@MarkWattTech]

You are correct. So i use them to turn lights on at night (being the first home and its dark) motion gets detected and its dark, then the lights come on. It only really works for that use case as lux only sends an update on motion event. Hope thats clearer :)

[@FreshfrogmarketingUk]

@@MarkWattTech Hey Mark, great videos. Just doesn't work for me sadly. I got them to turn on my living room and bedside lights when it got dark, but as there is almost no motion in those areas, especially the bedroom, they weren't suitable. I've gone to time based for the bedroom, and repurposed a useless Shelly motion sensor for the lux level in the living room, which works well.

[@AngloYorkshire]

I use the lux level instead of sunset/sunrise in my automations for when the motion sensor needs to turn the light on

[@FreshfrogmarketingUk]

@@AngloYorkshire But if you have no motion nothing happens. In my master bed I like the lights to come on in the evening for general ambience if anyone goes upstairs. These don't work in that use case.

[@AngloYorkshire]

@@FreshfrogmarketingUk why not? The lux level is always there