Building my CNC Router - Part I

[@pyronaught]

BTW, that looks great for drill press work. I've done a lot of motor mounting plates on a drill press and always get frustrated over how easily the holes shift into the wrong place no matter how carefully you measure the center punch marks. I always wind up having to drill the hole larger or try and sideways grind them to elongate the hole so the screws will be in the right spot.

[@joshendy]

Haha you're right about that. I actually used the old wooden CNC to make several of the HDPE plastic parts and a few of the aluminium brackets. Believe it or not, as bad as that old wooden CNC looked, it actually worked quite well. I did do a lot of the drilling myself on a cheap $100 drill press, it was the most essential tool of the whole build. I did get a friend to machine down the ends of my leadscrews, but that was the only machine shop help I had.

[@joshendy]

Hi there. The steel plates you see are for the linear carriages to ride on. They have multiple bearings that clamp onto the steel and ride along it. It is cold rolled steel, so it is very strong and won't wear down.

[@AdamuBAdamu-jv8sl]

Stunning Job! To think these go for 6-figures makes your work all the more remarkable.

[@mekatrol]

Mate, job well done. You obviously take a lot of pride in your work and I enjoyed watching it! Heading over yo your blog for sure...

[@joshendy]

Thickness of my cold rolled steel is 6mm. It takes a lot of work to get the carriages to ride well on the steel, they can work themselves loose and create backlash. Also the cold rolled steel needs to be maintained well in order to prevent too much surface oxidation from building up. Round rail linear systems use chromed steel which doesn't corrode and the pillow blocks don't need as much work done to fit them to the rails.

[@joshendy]

Spindle was only around $500 NZD with a few collets. The Kress is alright but has very low rotor inertia and doesn't really pack much of a punch, bogs down under load too easily. Next CNC router I'll be getting a 2.2kW water cooled spindle for sure.

[@joshendy]

Machine is about 800mm wide and 1100 long. If I built this over again I would most certainly use 8020 aluminium extrusion and supported round linear rails. That would make a much studier, eaiser to assemble, smoother moving machine. Eventually I will make this new version but until then I'm happy enough with this one. But trust me, if you can go with the 8020, that stuff bolts together so easily.

[@Patc1187]

im glad you put the end stats in there. I was feeling that my now almost 9 month build was going to make my head explode. lol

[@joshendy]

About the drill press, I know your pain. I too had huge issues getting the drill bit to go where I wanted. I found clamping the pieces down well and using WD40 worked really well. Rails are really expensive, but the way I look at it is that they are the most important component of the machine. My cold rolled steel was very cheap, $80 NZD for all of it. But like I said, next machine I'd go with round linear rails.

[@joshendy]

Cheers! I've only cut plastic and wood on it so far. I'm sure I can do aluminium sheet or even a little milling because of the Kress spindle. Obviously the rigidity will mean the finishes won't be perfect. As for the speed, my rapids are I think 2500mm/min which is almost 100 IPM.

[@mitkooo1]

I'm going to make cnc machine too. So far on my research this is the one of the best designs! Can you give some dimensions of the machine blueprints? Anything you've thing should be done differently ?

[@joshendy]

Yep for sure. My Gecko G540 controller has four digital inputs to hook up to limit switches, that you could then use to auto zero within whatever CNC controller software you have. I use Mach 3. If you want to use Arduino, there is a firmware that will allow you to control your CNC router's stepper drivers. Google GRBL to find it.

[@biraescudero]

Great job! congratulations. I am finishing my first one and did some successful tests last weekend. nexst is on the way... Thanks for sharing!

[@flackyoue7483]

as an american wire edm operator/ tool grinder, bravo sir bravo!!!

[@richardburgers8965]

What a great job so well done. Thanks for sharing

[@pyronaught]

Ha, that sure is a big improvement over your wooden one with the rubber bands! How did you do all the precision hole drilling and milling for the mounts? That would be the tough part. Did you have access to a machine shop somewhere?

[@AllForTheGame]

cool, ive built an mdf cnc and am still using, when i get some money i will build a metal one the right way.

[@Sgt_Hest]

I really like the design of your router. I'm thinking about buying a kit with stepper motor and driver and play around with that in the beginning. And later build a machine like your (in 5 years maybe ;) )

[@drumstick9000]

that is one bad ass home built CNC!

[@joshendy]

I just simply zero or home the machine at the point I wish to start cutting and make sure I have the room to complete the cut without running into my hard stops. I can return to the virtual G53 home at any time if I want to use multiple tools in one machining operation. Works well so that's probably why I've not got around to finishing my limit switches. I'll get them on there one day and set up some soft limits to have a properly safe and reliable machine.

[@donovanpl]

".....PRICELESS!" Love it.

[@christianlewis7055]

Beautiful looking machine.

[@JingChuangCNCEquipmentCoLtd]

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[@joshendy]

Yep the Gecko G540 drive has a built in breakout board, all the connections to it are on the back of the device. I brought my stepper motors and the G540 from kelinginc (dot) net

[@frankcsernetics2376]

Great design and Great Job! Can your design drawings be purchased?

[@joshendy]

I'm afraid the answer is I do not like the rail type I chose. It was cheap-ish and that was nice however the adjustment system on the carriages was a real pain to get right. The adjustment goes out after a little use and is hard to set again without disassembling a part of the machine. If I was to do this over again, I'd use 8020 extrusion and proper supported round linear rails with pillow blocks.

[@richhandler2621]

What sort of capability do you have with this badboy? Try brass or thin aluminum? IPM? Awesome design!

[@mannyfilmsinc]

Yeah I see that, I thought I looked at some part of the video, where they ( bearings) were not touching the steel plate. On the part that you show the electronics, I don't see any breakout board, when using that gecko drive, you don't need a breakout board? Where did you get the motors and drive? Thanks

[@joshendy]

Cheers. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Took me a good while to get all the photos together for it.

[@mannyfilmsinc]

Ok , thanks, I checked their website, and saw the kit they have .... was that kit plug and play pretty much?

[@mannyfilmsinc]

Hi, question for you.. the steel plate running across the members .. what are they for? Checking you web, great info, thanks

[@michaelrodriguez-fb8fr]

great video the best I've seen so far thanks!

[@crmusicproduction]

Love the music..... I would do, I am a Hammond organist myself :-) Anyway, I would really love to make a 'micro' CNC cutter/router. Any idea on where to start?

[@joeracer302]

Have you thought about putting a cover over the belt on top?

[@pyronaught]

I'm in the process of designing my own machine right now and I can't beilve what most of the linear rail systems out there cost! I don't have as much problem with the bearings as I do the outrageous price they are getting for the rails. I mean, $100 for a four foot length of extruded aluminum? Come on. Where did you get the bar type rails you are using?

[@jaycelonefuentes1673]

great video. What kind of lead screw nut did you used? Thanks:)

[@jalaludinalayubi2369]

Hey josh, i'm very like your cnc design and now i'd planing to build cnc looklike you have. if you haven't objection i want to used your design to my cnc build with some modified, i want to use ball screw and rod rail. where can i download your actual cnc design like this videos? i visit on your blogs but not see cnc design like this. btw sorry for my english ^^ v.

[@tiwar87]

Well done Máster! Good job.. But to do this you need to know some previos knowledge? (Like mechanical, automaization and so on) so i mean, it must take more than 3 years if we dont have previous knowledge, doesnt it?

[@onecarwood]

I know this is an old post but this is a great design. Are the plans somewhere?

[@luislabrabravo]

congratulations!! can you share your drawings?

[@jandemsar3542]

where did you buy the trapezoidal screw and how much did it cost? I am about to build a bit bigger CNC (1200x1200mm workspace), but I can't find the screw longer than 1200mm and thicker than 8mm which is a bit to thin... I was thinking sth. about 1200mm long and at least 16-20mm thick... thanks for any answer and stay awesome!

[@thedivinityman]

Would it be possible to attach three limit switches to auto zero a custom build CNC router , if so would you need a custom controller like a Arduino, or other microcontroller, or could you do it with just relays, and/or MOSFET gates

[@joshendy]

The total workspace travel is about X: 420mm, Y: 840mm, Z: 120mm

[@jefferywatford4051]

Not sure if you explained this but how do you home you machine so you know where you are going to be cutting?

[@joshendy]

Yep the G540 is about as plug-and-play as you get when it comes to CNC drives.

Can you explain the parts in 5:57 ? Should be for zero backlash ?

[@joshendy]

Those are anti-backlash nuts for trapezoidal lead screws. They are made by a company called DumpsterCNC, you can google them to find out more.

[@shattdbb]

Was wondering 2 things. First do you think your machine would still work fine if there were only one Z-axis stepper instead of the 2? Second how did you choose to wire the two so that they would work together? In parallel?

[@barsel4658]

Nice job, man)) are you designed it in CAD? can you give you me you model?

[@Linrox]

My CNC Router/Milling Machine looks similar. How thick is the aluminium on the carriages?

[@continental_drift]

The backing track had been driving crazy for days parts of it remind me of "The Pusher"

[@mechd3stroy3r63]

how much do these kits cost and how long does it take to put them together

[@bowtie3963]

Having 2 servos driving the same axis,do you have any problems with the motors staying in sync,i/e binding?Thank You,nice job!

[@joshendy]

Amazingly I have no problems at all. My steppers and drivers are well suited for this machine and I have no problems with any missed steps so the two motors on the y axis stay well synchronised.

[@Bowtie41]

joshendy Thanks for replying! I was wondering if the Y servos can be run together on 1 channel(say in parallel) of the gecko instead of using both axis drives? That would free up the channel for a rotary table,etc.

[@Sgt_Hest]

Can I ask how much a machine that size, would cost when it's DIY?

[@JeremyYoungDesign]

What have you done to the the steel rails? It looks like you've ground the edges clean?

[@JeremyYoungDesign]

+Jeff H. Oh yes, of course. Cheers

[@indrajitghosh6031]

where did u learn to build it in the first place?

[@KAFA2020]

Please sir, I'm facing some troubleshooting about correct measurement of various parts. Therefore I'm kindly requesting to upload some parts measurement?

[@tomd6410]

I am having difficulty finding linear bearing online. Where did you get them from and whats the model/part no?

[@wi11y1960]

Try McMaster-Carr at www.mcmaster.com/

[@Bowtie41]

I love this build!Do you think it's absolutely necessary to use 2 steppers for the long axis?Could they be wired in parallel to free up the other axis controller for a 4th axis?Also,what is the purpose of the black collet looking thingie with the spring on it on the leadscrew?Thank You for sharing

[@joshendy]

Yes definitely. Individual stepper motor drivers aren't designed to run two stepper motors in parallel. I see people doing it on 3D printers but I don't agree with it. Sorry I'm not sure what you're referring to, what's the timestamp on the video where it is?

[@Bowtie41]

I see.Now,I'm wondering if it could be run with a single stepper down the center?If not,I'll use your way,it just seems extravagant.As far as the collet thingy,there are good photos of it from 5:22-5:32

[@joshendy]

Typically raised gantry designs use one stepper down the middle for the Y axis. Bed designs like mine tend to use two steppers for the Y axis. Ah right, that's a anti-backlash nut made from delrin. The spring keeps tension so even if the delrin plastic starts to wear down the spring keeps tension on the leadscrew. It's from: www.dumpstercnc.com

[@Bowtie41]

Thank You Very Much for taking the time to answer!

[@debihsofiane3229]

Best work

[@diegocamilopenaramirez6101]

Hello: I'm looking for a CNC and gantry configurations....so i see that the Z axis is inthe end of the kinematic chain... There are a reason for that?

[@emmanouildrosopoulos7894]

where to find like this small belt ??? on 6:14 ????? did you have any link ?

[@joshendy]

goo.gl/06sIZM

[@kylerwoods5664]

About how much did it cost you for all of the parts and pieces? If you dont mind me asking

[@DamirSpanic]

KYLER WOODS look at 6:58 at the video (time)

[@richardwesterfield9409]

do you have blue prints thank you Richard Westerfield

[@homemaderr]

nice, a real beauty

[@uthzx]

where did you get the carriage blocks?

[@joshendy]

www.cncrouterparts.com/standard-linear-motion-c-46_41.html

[@fdoortiz63]

Muy bueno me puedes vender uno de estos, en donde estas.

[@alessandrovalente2274]

Amigo joshendy!Gostaria que vç me desse uma aula ou apostilla de como ligar uma servo e fazer um controllador.desde já agradeço.

[@BombBrickStudio]

where do you get the aluminium

[@jach8402]

What's the dimension of your machine?

[@medodaif2799]

hello sir iam a student in alex faculty of engineering in egypt i want to make that machine as my graduation project could you tell me about the software used for your machine ? how i define geometry to the machine ? any piece of information will help thank you sir

[@jesteris25]

trust a kiwi never to under engineer anything bloody good job

[@joshendy]

Nope they have just had a black primer painted in the middle of the rail to keep rust from forming. The edges of the rail just have no paint on them. Couldn't begin to afford to have the rails grinded!

[@Guitarsdetectors]

Frame and components look excellent. Nice job on the design and build. But then you put that puny dremmel looking spindle thing on there. Why?

[@joshendy]

Pete Larson That's a Kress 1050 spindle, it cost me a bunch and is very high quality. I brought it because I wanted to mill aluminium at some point and that spindle in particular is made for that. I wanted something better than a hardware store wood router and less expensive than a air/water cooled spindle/VFD solution. I do wish I had just forked out the extra cash for the air cooled spindle/VFD combo though.

[@siemensohm]

joshendy awesome work, congratulations. can you tell me what tolerances you have when you mill aluminium?

[@bennyhr5666]

hi. my name is benny . sorry for my bad english. i want to made a cnc router like you. what i need?

[@RafaelGFirmino]

Great job, share the project (CAD) with us :P

[@Flowsalvador]

Gracias por el video. Saludos.

[@adnelkekic1031]

how much all parts cost

[@zigydk]

Awesome !!

[@dollarmamun988]

I can give you the price! some few modification of this

[@9876543210goodbye]

I'm not a fan of music in these kinds of videos but if you must then the music in this video is ok.

[@spencerdyer4372]

Amazing New Homeeee Smart-Saw Does the Work Of 10 Professional Woodworkers > t.co/O5Xf7QNRGt?yLfHb9LRWuc

[@toolzshed]

mean machine!

[@stirlingandroboticsbrasil1172]

muito bom!

[@richardwesterfield4578]

nice but no drawings or parts list.thank youRichard Westefield

[@jalaludinalayubi2369]

I don't know if you search alumunium hollow like on the video's, but you can replace it with alumunium profile like this. site : connectautomation*com*au site : connectautomation*co*id

[@skorkmaz]

Awesome build. Congratulations. Permission to steal your design? :)